MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mudworm on May 12, 2007, 10:15:19 PM

Title: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: mudworm on May 12, 2007, 10:15:19 PM: Perfect temp. Clear. Warmed up on Flumes Wall. Mr Mud attempted the Arch from the left end. Hard.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44&g2_serialNumber=2)

Saw a solo climber aiding Bills Bad Bolts.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=32&g2_serialNumber=2)
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2007, 07:19:18 AM: "Attempted..." With what result?

I redpointed Factor's 5.11b at Eastern Front and was home in time for lunch, but that's a different area and a different story.
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: F4? on May 13, 2007, 08:38:13 AM: Gee Brad, did you get my route clean?? Do you agree with the 11b rating???
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: Brad Young on May 13, 2007, 09:00:21 AM: I did get it clean. Very devious, but having rehearsed the moves once, it went first try. I think 5.11b for sure. Two stars. And, moving the bolt put it in a perfect location.

Now, that new first pitch way to the right? That needs LOTS more work. Very dirty, it needs lots more scrubbing before I'd send anyone up there.
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: mynameismud on May 13, 2007, 12:23:23 PM: Did not send but got the moves and the gear figured out. The first moves are noticeably harder with a full rack on. Thankfully Mudworm was very patient.

Quote from: Brad Young on May 13, 2007, 07:19:18 AM
"Attempted..." With what result?

I redpointed Factor's 5.11b at Eastern Front and was home in time for lunch, but that's a different area and a different story.
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: squiddo on May 14, 2007, 08:44:42 AM: Ha...5.11b....that's spot on for my memory though mine was on TR:-) I gave it 3 stars though.....j/k Brad.
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: F4? on May 14, 2007, 10:23:15 AM: "Now, that new first pitch way to the right? That needs LOTS more work. Very dirty, it needs lots more scrubbing before I'd send anyone up there."

All the more reason to send people up it. The more traffic the better.

I don't want to do too much cleaning as it will stand out. The key holds are cleaned. What did you think that is rated? 5.9?
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: Brad Young on May 14, 2007, 10:54:11 AM: Seemed 5.9 now, but if (or once) the loose rocks and dirt are gone I'd guess 5.8. But I'm serious, if you don't get rid of the loose rocks at the second/third bolt and clean it it will stay really, really crappy. Don't scrub a streak, but my god man, as it is it's ATDS.
Title: Re: A nice day at Pinnacles
Post by: F4? on May 14, 2007, 01:55:05 PM: We'll be back to clean off more of the loose stuff. Might be in June as Mr. K is out of the country for a bit.