MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on July 13, 2007, 06:31:02 PM
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So, Mr Mud thinks he'll free Premeditated. Yeah, and so will the "Chance" brothers (Fat, Slim and No). He'll never free it, not by any means. Hell, he can't even free Jingus, which is an aid route he put up. Here's my prediction: He'll be a dad before he frees either route. And, no adding bolts to Premeditated so it will "go free." It isn't allowed, not with someone who's added so much to Pinns climbing. BTW, this is said with the utmost respect, and with a level of admiration bordering on adulation. Also, unlike several wusses out there who razz him, I am willing to concede that, except for once in a blue moon (and excluding aid climbing), the bastard climbs significantly harder than I do.
Having said that, I should add, ION (Mungie-poo, this set of letters is short for "In Other News"), that the book is with the printer. If the preflight checks out I should have 4200 books in my garage not later than the middle of September. Probably earlier. Same binding, cover and paper type as with the last Chockstone Press Valley guide. 408 pages, 14 page history, 3 appendices (FA, Routes by Rating and Routes Too Late to Make the Text) and Index. Anyone who complains once they see it will be referred to White Out and Sharpie markers and politely told to bugger off and write their own.
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"So, Mr Mud thinks he'll free Premeditated. Yeah, and so will the "Chance" brothers (Fat, Slim and No). He'll never free it, not by "
But where does the "establised route" end? Where did Bridwell stop. From there it would be a route extension and the extendor could protect as they deem neccessary.
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I will free pitch one and two. With out clipping any fixed gear (Belay Bolts will of course be clipped).
Ya you read it here first, Baby!
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"I will free pitch one and two. With out clipping any fixed gear (Belay Bolts will of course be clipped).
Ya you read it here first, Baby!"
So the "established route" ends at p2?
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Go as far as you can. That is the end.
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Two pitches, and no evidence that it ever went further. This in spite of me and Mr Mud climbing it and me and Clint and Mr Mud rapping in from the top at 3 separate places looking for any bolts, pin scars or evidence of any kind that it went further. I asked Bridwell and he didn't remember. Given Roper's description, which is mimicked in Richards and Rubine, I think Bridwell climbed two pitches soon before Roper put out his book. Knowing that it would go further either Bridwell or Roper or both (probably Bridwell intended to go back) added a vague description for two more pitches, but then never got around to doing it. That description (for third and fourth pitches) includes bolts, and although it is vague, it sounds like many. There are none and no evidence that there were any. Plus, pin scars, which are obvious on the two pitches, disappear about one placement into a third pitch. Interestingly, there is a three bolt anchor on the rim well up and right of the second pitch belay, but this isn't where the route is described as going, and there's nothing in between the second pitch anchor and these bolts. And these bolts are of a newer type than appear on the two pitches (actually appeared, since most were replaced)
And beloved, amiable, friend Mr Mud will never free it.
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With a crowbar and enough leverage, he *might* be able to "free" the whole route off the side of the Balconies.
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"And beloved, amiable, friend Mr Mud will never free it."
Give me a box of bolts and a bag of hangers and it will go!
"(probably Bridwell intended to go back) added a vague description for two more pitches, but then never got around to doing it."
Hmmm, tough decision. South Seas or Choss?? El Cap or the Balconies? I could see how it could get forgotten.
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And beloved, amiable, friend Mr Mud will never free it.
So I have been told.
Time will tell.
Here's ta sweat in your eye
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"Time will tell." TIME WILL TELL! What in the hell is with you, Valium? You're not allowed to answer with any "mellow" words. Next you'll be surfing.
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So, your buying me a Surfboard?
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Now we're back to the "Chance Brothers." No, but I will buy you a starter set of diapers if/when my prediction comes true.
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I am thinking Hendrix.
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That's a GREAT name for a kid! Unless it is a girl. Then it would suck. Although, knowing the gene pool, she'd probably be bad ass so it might work. You could nickname her "little wing".
F@#k I've got to stop drinking caffeine so late at night...
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UBBER
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"Although, knowing the gene pool, she'd probably be bad ass so it might work. You could nickname her "little wing". "
Which part of the gene pool? Maybe she could get mudworm's brains and Stroms..... well he does have nice hair...
Just not Kikie....
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I cannot help it if I am so dam good looking.
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I cannot help it if I am so dam good looking.
And a pedagogue of the English language!
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Oh, the constant cant.
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Hey, watch it you can go to jail for that!
And a pedagogue!
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Go ahead say that again.
Oh, the constant cant.