MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: F4? on July 19, 2007, 11:46:57 PM
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Think it's worth it?
All that weight?
Maybe stretch Portent into one pitch?
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Think it's worth it?
Absolutely. I travel to climb a lot and a 70 meter rope come in handy. In Europe it is the sport climbing standard and a 60m won't get you down. Some areas are starting to make 80m the standard.
All that weight?
Weight? Buy a 9.8. The great part is that thinner ropes blow out quicker, but with a 70m you get a lot of chops before it becomes a 60m.
Maybe stretch Portent into one pitch?
I always climb Portent as one pitch. I skip the anchor at the top of the first pitch and clip the next bolt as my first bolt. I think I take 5 draws. Three for the climb and 2 for the top. However, you have to belay the second from the top. It's a good into to climbing for people.
karl
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Bratton....why worry about that? I'd say that Beal of your easily stretches into 70 meters. :D What's that like a 20% elongation?
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"Bratton....why worry about that? I'd say that Beal of your easily stretches into 70 meters. What's that like a 20% elongation?"
Good point. But I also have a 9.2 single that will stretch to 80. Or is it a bungy cord?
80m good lord! That's one heck of a pitch. They need to make the gym taller. Maybe start doing girdle traverses in the gym??
Thanks for the info Karl. I like the idea you can get more trims.
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I like 60's and will most likely not be climbin in Europe much. 70 is to much to manage on multi pitch and with rope drag not to often can you go much further. Although the Nose in a Day is a bit easier with a 70. So maybe if I ever get in shape again that is the way to go.
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For multi pitch routes, I like 70m because often they eliminate the need for a second rope.
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For multi pitch routes, I like 70m because often they eliminate the need for a second rope.
Karl, like what routes would you eliminate the need for rapping with a second rope on using a 70m? Isn't that only 115' raps? not much more than a 60m?
thx,
RB
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It's hard to say which specific ones, but many.
Most of your classic routes were put up with 50m or shorter ropes. Often, they didn't stretch each pitch to the full 50m due to rope drag and comfortable belay stances. That means that 35m plus rope stretch will often get you one rap.
I have just found that many pitches can be easily linked with 70m and a lot of raps can be done with a 70m. But, this is my preference because I don't like to stop for belays. I've been know to ask my partner to take out the belay device, break down the belay, and get going because I need another 20'.
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"I have just found that many pitches can be easily linked with 70m and a lot of raps can be done with a 70m. But, this is my preference because I don't like to stop for belays. I've been know to ask my partner to take out the belay device, break down the belay, and get going because I need another 20'."
Nice, that's the way to climb, unless it's on a slab....
I remember when having a 60m was a big deal. Me bro and I did S Crack in 4 pitches.
I like the logic that most pitches aren't 50m stretchers. I'd just have to be in shape to have enough gear for that extra 10m (I know, it's only 36ft or so).
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It's hard to say which specific ones, but many.
Most of your classic routes were put up with 50m or shorter ropes. Often, they didn't stretch each pitch to the full 50m due to rope drag and comfortable belay stances. That means that 35m plus rope stretch will often get you one rap.
I have just found that many pitches can be easily linked with 70m and a lot of raps can be done with a 70m. But, this is my preference because I don't like to stop for belays. I've been know to ask my partner to take out the belay device, break down the belay, and get going because I need another 20'.
note to self - mandatory simul climbing with karl :)
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I'm thinking about getting a 200m rope. Think about it. El Cap in 6-7 pitches!
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Yes! Hey, aren't they doin it in four?
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"Insert Quote
Yes! Hey, aren't they doin it in four?"
Ubber is kinda short, so it'll take a few extra pitches....
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With a long enough cheater stick, I could do it in 3.
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factor's awfully sassy these days. must be the sea air and the travel.