MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on November 10, 2005, 07:21:06 PM
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cross posting from http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=117902&f=0&b=0#msg117995
Ah, yes, I remember summers in Rangoon, Luge lessons, and ticks.
First time I did Rat Race. I really didn't see how a 5' roof could be 5.7. I know now.
Stance bolting new lines at Machete West Face. good times. Good food too, if I remember rightly.
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Yep, that day stance bolting was good.
The "meow" day. Bolting from stance in the rain.
countless days at Knuckle Ridge
Getting the redpoint on Daddy Long Legs.
Doing a bunch of 11's in one day with Clint.
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Innertubing in the snow down the driveway from our house in 1974. (The rock house near the upper parking lot on the east side.)
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finding the long lost bolt on "when in doubt, run it out" and replacing it.
then hooking the last move
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Getting the redpoint on Cataract, with Clint of course.
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Okay, I started this one so i've got to say mine.
One day in 2000 (I was 16 years old then) I went to the west side with my mom. I had my climbing shoes and a chalk bag, but no harness or belayer. I decided to climb Tilting Terrace solo, and when I got to the ledge (terrace) decided to solo up Adams Apple instead of going up the gully to the left. The best part is that when I was getting ready to turn that little lip/overhang crux thing on Adams Apple, my mom looked up from the slab bellow and was like "don't fall kev" and then kept reading her book. I don't even think she realised the risk I was in. Soloing pinn's 5.9 80 ft off the deck? Sh#t, your only 16 once.
Kevin Friedrich
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OH SNAP!
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Tumbling 30ft (?) head over heels down the gulley next to Tao Pani into Lane and poor a bush...without a helmet. Rob, should the gulley be considered a route variation?
Redpointing Foreplay for the 1st time after struggling on it 6 yrs earlier.
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My first day on real rock was at the pinns too. it was august and 100+ on the east side. we did portent first. i put my shoes on before my partner led. he climbed then pulled the rope about half way up before i realized i wasnt tied in. he had to down climb half the route to get the rope back to me and we ended up doing it in two pitches. it was so hot that by the time i got to the top my feet had burned and i had BIG blisters on the tips of my toes.
we did all the easy classics that day, portent, swallows, ordeal, wet kiss, the 5.6 and 5.8 route on monolith, maybe the upper crust and finished with stupendous man(pulling that mantel got me hooked).
i had to lance the blisters on my feet before every climb.
my second day on rock was at donner and my partner whipped on Firecracker and broke his wrist.
Third day was on the west side, we climbed costanoan (partner in a cast still). that was my first lead and first time setting an anchor mid route. our ropes got stuck rapping power tools (my first or second rappel ever). epic