MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on September 16, 2007, 07:51:26 AM
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Met Glen Denny at the AAC weekend and Royal's party. Talked to him at length. It was really fun to hear some of his stories and explanations. He actually got his start climbing here in Tuolumne County, at age 12 at Scout Camp Jack Hazard up on 108.
So, during the conversation I asked him to reach as high as he could while I did the same. I am not short, and I have a positive ape index. But, holy crap, he out-reaches me by 7 inches! That explains an awful lot about some of those bolt ladders.
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7 inches......wow what a freak of nature! Marriages have dissolved for less than that!!!!
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Dam, Glen is da Man.
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Brad, do you have a copy of The Vertical World of Yosemite?
In Warren's account of Leaning Tower he talks about having a Glenn as a secret weapon when it came to bolt ladders. He wanted to invent a cheaper arm and call if the Denny Extension.
Now having read that article while on the West Face it's self as Jake is getting ready to do the bolt ladder above Awanahee at night my advice was "Warren was short, this pitch can't be THAT bad." Jake ended up having to top step a couple times. I had glossed over that Warren quote.
Sorry to have missed the weekend again. Bad timing. We needed to visit my grandma down south and had promised a visit soon after Taiwan. This was the best weekend (all other relatives were busy so we didn't have to compete).
Did you ask Glenn about the routes?
Maybe next year?
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The other thing he explained is how he and Colliver used Star Drivyn bolts. They used these almost exclusively. With one exception, every one I've come across still seemed bomber after 30 years (the one was on the bolt ladder part of Daedelus - the rock at one bolt was just really bad). Part of it was choosing good rock. The other part was a trick: they removed the original lead sleeves that came with the bolts and replaced them with slightly thicker lead from sheets they'd bought at the hardware store.
Can't help but think of Uber leading that pitch when I think of how long that guy could reach!
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Can't help but think of Uber leading that pitch when I think of how long that guy could reach!
Now you know why I was asking for a cheater stick!
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Glenn passed. Rest well climber.
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Glenn passed. Rest well climber.
Rest well indeed. I spoke with him around the same time Brad did, asking about where he took off for that direct finish of Desperado on Machete. I once sent Brad up an entirely wrong direction, free solo. He did get a new route out of it, however.
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Lol, that’s that variant pitch with no gear!
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What a climber…..launching up those faces, pulling hard moves, putting in an occasional bolt and then a single belay bolt!!
I remember Brad and I repeating on of his Muchshitty routes…heady unprotected 5.8 moves far from any gear.
Bold!
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God speed