MudNCrud Forums

Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: The Big on November 14, 2005, 07:50:29 PM

Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 14, 2005, 07:50:29 PM
(http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/photos/44573716-M.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 14, 2005, 07:53:18 PM
(http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/photos/44574893-M.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Jody Langford on November 14, 2005, 08:53:21 PM
(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pnm13.1.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Brad Young on November 14, 2005, 10:46:12 PM
Hey DES is that photo of mudworm on Broken Arrow? Could we use it in the book?
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on November 15, 2005, 08:44:06 AM
Damn Mr Mud, that's a nice picture.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 15, 2005, 09:20:38 AM
Brad,

Sure.  You can check out other photo's at

http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/



I put new photos up there and have slowly been putting old photos up as I go through them.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Mei on November 15, 2005, 09:59:49 AM
Brad, what do you need a non-climbing photo in your guidebook for?  I was not leading!  -mudworm
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mudworm on November 15, 2005, 10:10:38 AM
I finally registered.  Now I have to post something with my new username.





(http://www.mxi2000.net/photos/p20051112/brokenarrow.jpg)



Boy, is climbing in Pinnacles frightening.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 15, 2005, 10:15:42 AM
Oh yeah, yes mudworm on Broken Arrow.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Brad Young on November 15, 2005, 01:23:23 PM
Hey, mudworm, I usually agree that if you're not leading you're not climbing. BUT, that's a great photo! Plus, the  rope is slack, which makes it look real. Go back and lead it and get a photo at the same spot. Meanwhile, I'll talk to Steve and plan on using it. And why no accolades for recognizing the route first try?
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mudworm on November 15, 2005, 02:09:34 PM
Quote
why no accolades for recognizing the route first try?



Because you are Brad -- it's expected.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Brad Young on November 15, 2005, 02:52:42 PM
Steve agrees, mudworm. You're not only smart, you're photogenic. How can we get the original?
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 15, 2005, 03:12:34 PM
The gallery

http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/gallery/967991



the original

http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/photos/44574893-O.jpg
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on November 15, 2005, 04:13:32 PM
Mr Mud, don't forget about licensing rights for the photos....
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Brad Young on November 15, 2005, 04:18:25 PM
Yeah Dennis, we pay in free guidebooks (if its ever done) and the occasional belay (defined as belaying you on lead on about 35% of the pitches we climb). And who the heck are you F4??
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on November 15, 2005, 05:23:26 PM
Brad, I'm the other Erik....



http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/gallery/970401/1/44697874
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Brad Young on November 15, 2005, 06:44:32 PM
Got it. But don't you mean Mr Mud is the other Erik?
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Jody Langford on November 15, 2005, 06:55:15 PM
(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pnm14.1.jpg)

(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pnm24.1.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 15, 2005, 07:01:25 PM
hey we did the bottom route (Longs Folly) last weekend.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Jody Langford on November 15, 2005, 10:40:15 PM
Do I get a prize? This is the 500th post...

(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/pnm4.1.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 16, 2005, 01:01:02 PM
A Mastes Of Mud coffee cup when ever I get aournd to making them.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Jody Langford on November 17, 2005, 04:51:51 PM
Quote from: "mudworm"
Brad, what do you need a non-climbing photo in your guidebook for?  I was not leading!  -mudworm





I couldn't disagree more. I really don't understand the infatuation with saying you didn't "climb" something unless you led it. You definitely climbed it, you just didn't lead it. So if I follow someone up Machete Direct, freeing all the moves, but as a second instead of leading it, I didn't climb it?
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Mei on November 17, 2005, 06:03:32 PM
Hi Jody,



You've probably missed   this post (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=117726#msg117859).  You think Brad was joking?



Normally, I wouldn't make such an extreme statement, but often times I don't say I climbed a route unless I did my share of leading on it; otherwise, I just say I followed it. However, I guess the line can be fuzzy sometimes.  After all, It's Brad who wants to put that photo of me following Broken Arrow into the new guidebook!  Can you believe that?



-mudworm
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mungeclimber on November 17, 2005, 07:11:43 PM
have you ever seen Brad on top rope?

he sucks!





for him, leading is climbing, and he has a good lead head about him.





The more common miscommunication I think is the



"I've done x"  Where x = a climb.



To say you've done x, but not clarify whether you've fallen on it, or followed it is misleading.  



Absolutely, if you climb it whether falling on it or not, you've climbed it, unless of course you pulled on gear to make upward progress.







I usually stick to either "I've done x"  or "I've been on x" but usually even the later is followed quickly with a style notation.



I can't think of a time when I wouldn't have used these or similar denotations. I used to get mad at people for talking as if they had lead it, e.g by describing someone else's lead efforts, and then saying that they had 'done the route.'  or earlier saying they had 'done the route'  No I just feel sorry for them that they need to have a false ego like that.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 17, 2005, 07:19:15 PM
I agree with Munge here.  Brad is terrible on tr.  You cannot keep the rope tight enough.  even if there is 1" of slack he is continually saying up rope.

Good on lead though.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Jody Langford on November 17, 2005, 08:24:42 PM
I always say I "followed so and so up such and such route" or I "led such and such route", etc. I just stop short of saying following or toproping isn't real climbing. John Bachar said, "Top roping is the purest form of roped climbing", meaning, when on top rope you are just worried about making the moves and the free flow of movement on the climb. You are not getting contorted into all different shapes trying to find a place to hang on while you make the clip.



I still say that if you followed someone up a route and didn't pull on gear then you have "done" the route.



By the way, I can't climb much of anything so you won't hear me spray at all about my climbing ability. :)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mungeclimber on November 17, 2005, 09:33:21 PM
Quote from: "Jody Langford"
John Bachar said, "Top roping is the purest form of roped climbing"



I totally agree with the Bachar idea about TR. I can almost always climb several letter grades above my lead rating at amy given time.  



Dude, we got to do Feather Canyon soon. It will probably close like usual.



I was thinking a day above Sonora and a day at Pinns. I have to finish a project on the West side though.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Brad Young on November 19, 2005, 08:03:27 PM
Jody, mudworm and I were joking about my own personal ethic about my own climbing. As long as a person is having fun, what they do on style issues is their own gig. I stopped being judgmental about that kind of stuff two decades ago.

   Rob, go do Feather Canyon. I give it two stars for sure. Big fun. Do you have my "better" route descripton? Jody gets special credit if he does it, something about being what they call in fraternities a legacy.

    mudworm, worked on the book today. It's in. You look like your floating on air in that photo.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mungeclimber on November 19, 2005, 08:09:46 PM
good deal



ONSIGHT she did it!!!  WAH WOOO as a center climbing friend of mine says.



People that helped me with the bolts include; Adam Metzger, Andrew Wang, Mr Mud (including the coveted 2nd ascent).



I was feeling like crud, heat and something I ate i think.



I have the crux sequence on vid. I'll try and put a mini vid together.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: Anonymous on November 19, 2005, 08:31:05 PM
Did you guys get Le Petit...? If so, cough up the details. Rating etc. CC and I found BOTH Citadel Stream boulders, and all 4 routes on them, (including the 3 in the current guidebook). Big fun exploring!
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on November 20, 2005, 10:03:16 PM
mudworm on the FFA of La Petite Morte

(http://climbermei.smugmug.com/photos/45353155-M.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on December 04, 2005, 12:54:47 PM
(http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/photos/44574017-M.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on December 05, 2005, 08:36:14 AM
Hey Munge,



Look who is out of retirement....



(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/46968228-M.jpg)



Guess which route?
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on December 05, 2005, 08:38:48 AM
Who is this hardman.....



(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/45963943-M.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mungeclimber on December 05, 2005, 08:46:14 AM
THe later one is Tardboy, superhero to all.





The first one, I couldn't make out at first, then I checked the other pics at full size.  



It is zee famous french climber, no?  Pa-trick  Eay-lon-bratton
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on December 05, 2005, 10:18:29 AM
Yep Munge..that's the one.



Would you believe the last time he was at the Pinns was like 10 yrs ago...I couldn't believe it. I took him on a tour of the classics.



I'll give you a hint on the route....you have lots of rope drag.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mungeclimber on December 05, 2005, 10:30:16 AM
depends on where you belay



piton traverse on mono
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on December 05, 2005, 11:22:48 AM
Yep that's the route. All but the 1st piton belong in a museum. Seriously, they need to be replaced.
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mungeclimber on December 05, 2005, 01:08:31 PM
all the pitons were gone, when I did it a couple years back.



hrm
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: The Big on December 07, 2005, 10:21:05 PM
(http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/photos/44003136-M-1.jpg)
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on December 07, 2005, 10:28:42 PM
Nice shoes
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: mungeclimber on December 07, 2005, 11:28:46 PM
route names people, route names
Title: Weekly Favorites - The Season Has Begun
Post by: F4? on December 08, 2005, 08:30:37 AM
Lithium......



(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/46968221-M.jpg)