MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: The Big on November 16, 2007, 11:15:50 AM
-
This thread is for users to suggest corrections to the new Pinnacles guidebook. If you have noticed any typo or misinformation, please post it here. The author will make official correction as he sees fit in the Errata.
Note: The thread is for fact backed corrections and not for arguments on ratings. If you can't help commenting on a rating for a specific route, please start a new thread.
-
Here are a couple of my submissions:
1) The Pinnacles Forum site should be http://www.mastersofmud.com instead of http://www.mudncrud.com, which is meant to be the Mud's personal website. Masters of Mud is a site dedicated to Pinnacles climbing. Right now, it only does a re-direct to the forum on mudncrud.com, but in the long run, it will have more content besides the forum. For example, a searchable route DB, a correction submission form, and an errata, to name a few. However, this is minor because the Admin has agreed to take care of this so that it does not confuse people who come to mudncrud to look for info/forum on Pinnacles.
2) The FAs for Red Line and Drop Zone both happened in 2006, not 2004. I knew it because I was there on that day. Back in Feb 2004, I had not lost my sense enough to do FAs in Pinnacles yet.
P.S. I don't have the book with me right now. Will edit later with the page numbers when I get to it.
-
I could be wrong on this.
But I know for a fact, TD added the first bolt to Terranean Tango in recent years (maybe 5 years ago?). In the past we would step out over the chasm...
The book (which we all agree is beyond fantastic) states that is the case for Foreplay. Did he do so for both routes or was Foreplay mistaken for TT?
-
Topo for Desecration Palpitation, plus you can get a cam placement in at some point...I just can't remember.
-
you've got to be kidding me?!?!
the cam is on the traverse off, nothing on the face that i recall.
-
Maybe it needs a few bolts then.....
-
comedian, eh
-
FA rights? No?
-
the thing is choss.
bolt it if you want, but i'm gonna work the other ones that are better near there.
-
Joe, re Terranean Tango, check out the First Ascent Appendix at page 367. The year was 2001. (And the bolt addition made a very nice, separate route). The addition of a bolt to Foreplay was a more immediate addition (i.e., it was done very quickly after the FA of that route).
-
Please remove 1 star, no make it both stars from "If we Bolt it they will come".
That route is WAY, WAY loose. Out of 120 feet the last top out move is cool (once you remove the moss for a hand hold), but the headwall and the lower section is made up of one loose hold after another.
Nice location
-
I do not remember it being that loose except for a bit of the start and the middle crux part before the mantle. Thought the upper headwall was solid and remember it as a fun route with good variety. Good to have additional input.
Did you climb with Joe? What did he think?
-
I gotta say, I'm very surprised by Factor's post. I thought this was an excellent route. Long, good climbing, great location, and well protected. Just goes to show that tastes differ.
Another example of differing tastes: I like Mr Mud, I think he's a nice guy. But everyone else disagrees with me on this.
-
Hey Brad,
Honestly, I was very suprised by the route which from the bottom looked great. But once on the route, Joe kept knocking stuff off. I didn't cuz I had the luxury of a TR and could choose mine easier.
The upper section looked mostly solid, but man that lower part. There is a key old on the crux that I just couldn't bring myself to use because I knew I'd rip it off (had to do an A0 move).
I'm curious if Mr Mud and Clint had the same issues as we did. The bolts are solid and you won't fall far.
-
I don't want to come across too strong here, but I was very disappointed in the route. Well bolted, nice looking line, but it would be nicer if it was on rock. I mostly agree with the star ratings in the book, but this route was a choss pile. right off the ground, large holds were flexing, moving and flying. I colored within the lines and still knocked off dozens of holds. several times key hand and foot holds went flying. I was frightened for Erik below, which very much affected how I climbed the route. in addition, the route was incredibly dirty. I started the route as a Caucasian, and finished it as an afro-american covered in black soot. I'm still finding black grit in my eyes, nose and mouth a day later. The exit move was amazing as you're pawing moss to get over the final bulge. To add insult to injury, the belay anchor is right there so that the belayer is in the way of the follower trying to make the same move.
I love the Pinnacles, but calling that a 2 star route is the kind of thing that gives the pinnacles a bad name. I'm so ready for j-tree.
I'm holding back here, ask me how I really feel.
-
I can understand the route being dirty. You most likely did the third or forth ascent. Most likely that route has not had an ascent in three or four years. I just did not remember it being that loose. Never worry about loose rock hitting Factor while he is belaying since he is quite used to ducking discarded holds.
As far as good 5.11 routes in the West Side I think Electric Blue, Powers that Be and No Sense of Measure will not disappoint. They all have some loose sections since these routes get very little traffic. However they are steep with over all good rock and fun moves. The second pitch of No Sense of Measure is a very good ten.
To truly experience loose rock try Feeding Frenzy, What If or Pipeloads to Pluto.
-
Yeah, feeding frenzy sounds great.
But you should definitely do 'the embarrassment of riches'. but instead of ending at Melvin, you go to the rim. lots of fun if you like that sort of thing.
do make sure that no one you care about is down below.
-
Interesting. I don't have my journals here at work, so I'm not exactly sure when I did the route. I know it was the late 90's though. And I know it doesn't get many ascents. Maybe it hasn't been climbed since I did it? That would explain the dirtiness (the waterchute climbs tend to get a build up of dirt every year, which buildup is then usually cleaned up by climbers over time). My memory is that it was about as dirty as No Sense of Measure or Electric Blue - that is, not so bad. I sure don't recall much loose stuff though. I remember about as much looseness as one might expect for what was then a newer route. I thought it was an excellent climb.
And what explains the fact that no-one but me likes Mr Mud?
-
The hand crack traverse is surprisingly good.
Yeah, feeding frenzy sounds great.
But you should definitely do 'the embarrassment of riches'. but instead of ending at Melvin, you go to the rim. lots of fun if you like that sort of thing.
do make sure that no one you care about is down below.
-
Brad you do not really like me you just post trolls like that on the internet.
-
I also think the rock was loose/ flexible due to the sun warming it. Maybe we needed to do it before the rock warmed up??
Mr Mud, yes we must have done an early repeat since the top was all moss. We did fine those nice holds with a little digging.
Brad, this was on par with Pipeloads. But way longer.
Electric Blue does sound nice.
No sense of Measure...talked to a buddy who tried it a year or so back and he said it's hard! He also asked if the bolts on Shake and Bake were replaced...guess not.
-
Electric blue had one loose flexor hold but was otherwise technical and fun when I TR'd it with Brad and I think maybe Jim Lundeen was there or maybe Mr Mud?
-
Brad,
Maybe you should mention the 40' boltless section on Lithium. I know that everyone hates to use the word "runout", but it's pretty sketch. You would deck if you fell close to the anchor and that rock quality is less than spectacular.
My buddy followed me on it about 7 years ago and got within 8' of the belay when I said, "I wouldn't pull on...[dope]". He grabbed a block that was roughly the size and shape of a football with both hands. It split in half and he fell backwards holding the two football halves in his hands. The look on his face was priceless.
Kind of like :-\ then ??? then :-[ then :o My look was like :D
-
Hmm... I shall look for more smilies and enrich our collection here.