MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on December 20, 2007, 01:54:08 PM
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I've now done every climb in the High Peaks but two. Still to go are Sweet Orgasmic Bliss (5.11c) and Earth Magnet (5.12a TR). Both close soon, so next season. The first one is in a shaded corridor, so it's BAC (Butt Ass Cold). I'll do it in October. The other is a toproped boulder problem (it's very short). Having fun now!
And, hey, Geeser Boy, if you're reading this don't you dare go do HB without me in this weather. If you break off that crux hold because it is wet, I'll find a way to remove your crux hold. It'll wait until January! I've got both of the first two weekends set aside for it (if we need both).
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Cool a dare.
Hmm, Saturday has a very free look to it...
Enjoy The City old man.
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Well, at least you're clear on who "Geeser Boy" is. I'm telling you it is bad karma to go there without your best, most fanatic, idiot mud master. Don't risk it.
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I almost commented but bit my tongue. Nothing like old friends giving each other a ration or two.
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"Long time" friends, not "old" friends.
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ok, i laughed at the old vs. long time distinction. comedic timing on a thread is very important.
well done. set em up and knock em out.
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Now what if Geezer boy was to "belay" me on HB?
Yah, a belay boy for the day!
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Gonna spend the day climbin not belayin since HB will not take all day...
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HB?
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You know that route I have been stuck on over on Resurrection. The first couple of pitches are a bit loose.
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It's Herchel Berchel. No secret, I was just too lazy to type it out in full the first time. He and I have been working the third (crux) pitch. We rebolted the pitch 2 seasons ago. It's quite hard for 11a. And then that hideous runout at the top. At least the single manky 1/4 inch bolt that protected the long runout is now replaced (the original came out too easily). I've done the first two pitches two times each (yuk!). I'd like to redpoint the third and call it done.
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gotcha, of course.
rat poop still all over that first pitch?
one of my prouder leads, but gawdawful too.
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I did not lead the first pitch but thought the second pitch was kinda cool. Very nice diversity and the rat was fairly friendly not seeming to care much about me using its home the crack for hand jams and placing protection. The ending bulge up onto the bench had some good moves.
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I've led and followed both the first and second pitches (done them twice). Talking about hand jams and pro on the second pitch? Yeah, it's true, hand jams and pro, to the extent these can be had in kitty litter. ATDS.
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You need to bring the rat a treat the next time.
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Gonna spend the day climbin not belayin since HB will not take all day...
I know a route we can work on afterwards on Muchshitty ;D
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F4, always feeding the fuel aren't you.
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Is that feeding the fire?
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I have multiple projects, in multiple places.
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Happy Birthday Brad.
A bit shaky but clean.
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Friking A that was shaky! Talk about akward, that was akward. I was not worthy and stood no chance.
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Mr Mud, you came out the rear end of a certain species of freshwater fish. You better be willing to go back in January. (Posting this from Jim's iPhone. Pretty easy to use.)
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I meant you're a bastard.
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trip reports? photos?
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photos?
Yah, right, "hey Mr Mud, can you steady that leg for a second, I need to take a picture".
I wasn't about to take a hand off while belaying him, I'm such a stand up guy.
PS Brad you need to bring your eye glasses with you. I found the second broken off bolt 6 inches above the one you replaced.
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So Brad, are going to bring an extra bolt to give that lone belay bolt company? Maybe borrow one of Munges 1/4 button heads?
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No way. I don't think there was ever a "second" bolt. I think there was one failed bolt and a replacement. The route was put up in 1976. Look at Gagner's 1983 book. He did the FFA shortly before then. He shows one bolt there. If there were ever two, it would have been then. I doubt there had been more than two ascents by the time that book came out.
I was unwilling to change the basic character of the route when I replaced the one bolt. Although I did replace a 1/4" bolt with a 1/2" bolt, it's still one bolt for one bolt. I'm fairly sure I saw the broken off bolt and reached the same conclusion then. No one but freaks will ever do the route. Leave it alone.
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;D ;D
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No way. I don't think there was ever a "second" bolt. I think there was one failed bolt and a replacement. The route was put up in 1976. Look at Gagner's 1983 book. He did the FFA shortly before then. He shows one bolt there. If there were ever two, it would have been then. I doubt there had been more than two ascents by the time that book came out.
I was unwilling to change the basic character of the route when I replaced the one bolt. Although I did replace a 1/4" bolt with a 1/2" bolt, it's still one bolt for one bolt. I'm fairly sure I saw the broken off bolt and reached the same conclusion then. No one but freaks will ever do the route. Leave it alone.
didn't someone we know damn near die on that route because he kept going past that single bolt the first time?
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"Dam near die?" Not me, I didn't fall. Ergo I was no where near dieing. Shitting my pants? Obviously. If I'd have fallen? Dead for sure. But, thanks to his royal highness Mr Mud, I got a toprope to keeep my lily white ass intact:)
All this points out why I replaced one bolt with a much better bolt. But I still see no reason to add another there. I'd rather err (if at all) on the side of caution on the issue of bolts at Pinns. And I'm going there tomorrow to lead that pitch, and yes, I'll run it off the one bolt. Please pray for me?
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We will. Too bad it's rained so much and washed off our chalk.
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What am I supposed to look for your chalk for? Hell your chalk only means you were as lost as I am. (Anyway, Mr Mud must of told you we both worked it the weekend before he redpointed it, so I'm real comfortable I know the moves.)
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be careful
that's the most i'd ever seen you in the belly of the beast before.
wigged me out and I couldn't even see you. maybe that's why.
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"that's the most i'd ever seen you in the belly of the beast before."
Yeah, probably one of the top ten times for me. I'll be OK if the one bolt is a least trustworthy (and it is now).
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OK, that went fairly smoothly. Did it on Saturday's first try (did other stuff Sunday). Pretty heady, and I sure ain't ever going back.
Got to thinking about it today. I think I did the last ascent of Herschel Berschel. Mr Mud already did it and now I have. I doubt anyone else will ever do it. Ever. No-one climbs that kind of stuff anymore, which is kinda sad.
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so Brad, was that you in white pants on Machete Saturday, party of 3? 2 more at Chockstone. what route? Full Throttle? waited in the parking lot in the dark with extra beer, but never saw you walk out.
yesterday in the high peaks it was gorgeous. once again a condor sitting on top of Longs after swooping by us on Condor Condiment. Then Ranger Scott had a scope on 3 condors perched on the upper balconies. he was tracking 9 of them.
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Not me. Saturday I did Herchel Berchel on Resurrection Wall. Got back to parking at 3:00 so we went out to Split Boulder and played around. Got back to parking around 5:00 after watching that party of 3 finish Gary and Phylis Headwall. So I'm not sure how we missed you. Wish we'd connected (sounds like you survived that lightning strike after all?).
Sunday we went to the same general area. At one point 8 condors were perched 100 feet from me with two others soaring above. Started wondering if they were trying to send me a message.
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Hey Joe, how did you like Condor C?
Eric and I worked on another Holmgren "5.9+" route on saturday at Freedom Dome. The thought of pulling the technical crux and having to then move through a complete mossy section wasn't that appealing. Especially with a ramp below.
Damn someone was on Fullthrottle? I wonder of they got the bail biner off of Redline.
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F4, why do you ask about the biner? Do you need more for your rack ::)
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Hey Erik
I guess it wasn't Full Throttle, but Gary and Phyllis.
Loved CC, although it was hard to spot all the bolts. I led it all and missed 1 bolt per pitch. I'm concerned that a pattern of skipping bolts is emerging. Also did Little Javelina and totally agree with your assessment, an excellent route in every way. Perhaps one of the best in the high peaks. Warmed up on Abnur Bear which was looser than I expected.
Saturday I warmed up on No Sense of Measure. Total flash pump. Then repeated Little Big Dog, Indirect. Way heady, done with that. First pitch of Peregrine. Meandering but stellar and finished with Escape from Soledad, which I thought was a sandbag with lots of fractured rock. from the top of Osiris is where I saw other climbers for the first time all day Saturday. No other climbers in the park yesterday.
Thought about retrieving your biner from Hook and Drill for you, but the lack of stars made it unattractive.
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The ability to spot bolts is directly proportional to a climber's level of desperation. Joe's not climbing routes which are scary enough. We'll have to work on that now won't we?
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could also be ancient eyes, or camouflaged pro.
some routes the bolt placement is just counter intuitive.
e.g. Peregrine go up, make a left, make a right, etc. actually, I missed a bolt on that as well. hmmm. maybe I have a problem.
although I didn't miss either bolt on Little big dog
I was surprised that the rock on that first pitch of Peregrine was so good.
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I led Little Big Dog Direct in October. Contrived and short, but still a little scary.
Also, try the bolts on Nexus - especially the last pitch. The water streak grows moss that can be thicker than the bolt hanger is high. Finding those bolts can really make you crazy!
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Hey Joe,
Glad to hear you liked Condor Condiment and Little Javelina. Condor C needs more traffic. All little H needs is some wire brushing on the upper part. Eric and I were going to do it Sunday, but the beer was calling.
I'm going to get my biner back next fall and replace that bolt with a nice fat one. Plus quick links as well to allow rapping off of it.