MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Jim McConachie on December 24, 2007, 12:16:16 PM
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…last night. I was leading Heat Seeking. I did not float the crux. No falls, no hangs though. It was desperate, the moves difficult, sharp flakes biting my finger tips just like the last time. I pulled through but where did the rest go? What happened to the easy section?
The rock is vertical and I am able to get a thin side pull on a rectangular piece of rock. Reach up and grabbed a small, dirty edge. Where did the all the usable stuff go? It used to ease off here.
The knob by the next bolt was missing – not gone like fell off – but never there. And the bolt? No bolt, no hole. [ Dang, that was another on of those forever bolts to drill. Old twist bit with duct tape on the Rawl holder as a handle. Binding horribly, blisters. Had to use a little adjustable wrench to turn. Pound, wrench turn, pound, wrench turn… Pulling out to clean the hole was near on impossible. Poor John on slave duty, patiently waiting while I curse and sweat. ]
Mr Mud is belaying unseen down below in the overgrowth. Wait a second, overgrowth? There’s no overgrowth there?! A treetop with some half rotten branches is within reach. Where the heck did that come from? Should I sling it? “Hey! Eric watch me! Eric?” No response just snores. I grab an arm full of rope and yank hoping it will jerk him awake. Rope comes up with no resistance. Damn. “Mr Mud, dammit! WAKEUP!”
Snores
I see the next protection. It’s a 3/16 hardware cap screw bolt in the cobble 10 feet above. The kind you might still find on some of the more obscure formations in the outback. Wait, the 3/8” 5 piece rawl used to replace the original 1/4 button several years back is gone? I’m already 15 feet above the last bolt. The next section is slightly overhanging.
If I fly from here am I going to ledge? Forty feet - I could smack that other rock. Dennis Eric where are you? It’s starting to get dark. Should I go for it?
Going down does not come to mind as an option.
I start to move up…
…it is a dream.
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dream? Sounds like a nightmare.....my palms are sweating and its below 40 outside!!
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Gee Jim give the man a break. He needs all the beauty sleep he can get.
Hey Squiddo, does this sound familiar? I think it was on Leaning Tower you had fallen asleep only to be awakend by being pulled up when I went for a short ride.
PS, I had the same thoghts at the crux on Heat....where'd the foothold go?
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So, what had happened to that bolt? Or, was drilling actually a dream? And did Mr Mud ever wake up? Or was he dreaming of belaying you? And did you get to the next protection? What was the sequence? Wow, it starts to sound like a suspense now. Jim, you should try to finish that dream.
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no, don't finish that dream. sounds sketch to me.
whew, dayum
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I wasn't sleeping.....was that my orange alien you lobbed on:-)?
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I have only fallen asleep at a few belays over the last 20 years. That isn't to bad a record is it?
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Mr Mud, that depends on WHO you were belaying while you slept :P
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I had a dream last night too. There was Mr Mud on rappel with drill in hand, banging away.
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dude, that was Mr Mud trying to aid your garage door up to the 2nd bedroom window.
he said it's easy A1. next week he's going to the roof.
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A0, I had no rope.