MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: spyork on January 31, 2008, 02:18:45 PM
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Weather.com says raining in Soledad today/tonight. Will Saturday be too soon to climb at the pinns? Does it depend on which area Im in? Say like Machete/Balconies?
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Spyork, it's never to wet to aid climb.
That or start/finish a couple new projects i have in mind.
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hoping to climb sat as well
cross our fingers
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I guess I could try 'Rock around the Clock' if stuff aint super dry.
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I wouldn't if it's wet. Go for it if it is dry. It's still a bit dirty, so if damp, you'll be moving mud.
I did it with Squiddo a month or so ago. Fun route with great free climbing between A1 sections. Do it in 1 pitch.
Maybe someone could add a bolt to dropzone? Maybe move the belay?
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More than anything, it depends on how much rain it gets and how much it has gotten.
I tend to watch this page, but for some reason it didn't read for several days.
http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/selectQuery?station_id=ggr&sensor_num=16&dur_code=E&start_date=&end_date=now
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I wouldn't if it's wet. Go for it if it is dry. It's still a bit dirty, so if damp, you'll be moving mud.
I did it with Squiddo a month or so ago. Fun route with great free climbing between A1 sections. Do it in 1 pitch.
Maybe someone could add a bolt to dropzone? Maybe move the belay?
good, you should bring your gear and get that squared away.
Joe, where you going to be at?
saturday forecast looks good. Sunday, meh.
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good, you should bring your gear and get that squared away.
Sure, I'll take care of it.
Who is game Saturday?
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I'm in.
No word from Spyork yet.
Forecast as of tonight...
Friday: A 30 percent chance of rain. Partly sunny, with a high near 53. Northwest wind between 7 and 9 mph.
Friday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 34. North northwest wind between 5 and 8 mph.
Saturday: Partly sunny, with a high near 52. North northwest wind between 3 and 7 mph.
Saturday Night: Rain likely. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 40. Light wind becoming west between 14 and 17 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%.
Sunday: Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 52. Chance of precipitation is 60%.
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Im in if it dries out. Jaybro will come to.
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it'll be dry... enough
West Side or East Side?
hrm, can't really think of many wide cracks for jaybro, he might get bored. :)
Contraband Crack, maybe? that thing is filthy loose.
Overhang Chimney
The Cleft
Entrance
The Slot
Welcome to the Machine
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West Side
Flimsy Flume
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Owoooooo - Hello Pins Crew!
This is keoke from up in San Fran. I accidentally discovered your secret spot last spring on a hiking trip and have been dying to get down there with my rope. We'll be leaving SF around 6:30 on Sat morning - rain or not. Hopefully this forecasted little hickup in the non stop soaking weather will stick and it will be dry enough to climb.
Any advice on west or east side for better chance of dry conditions? Also, I read that some areas are closed for raptor protection?? how does that correspond with the climbing routes/areas? The plan is to buy a guidebook at the visitor's center b/c REI doent have one up here.
Beta much appreciated. I hope to see you Saturday.
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You want wide cracks? Go do Emancipation in the High Peaks. The 10a face crux is a few (scary) moves. But the offwidth crux is wicked. I almost fell out and then, when I did pull it off, I almost puked. Unlike most Pinns cracks, the faces on wither side didn't seem to provide much help. Jack rated it 5.9, but it's comparable to Chingando at Reeds in the Valley.
Have fun without me, I'll be shoveling more GD snow.
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keokex - Welcome, Dicovery Wall gets early morning sun and dry's out quick. Gerties for moderate climbs. Machete can dry out fairly quick since it get direct after noon sun. I imagine it will be damp down there but climbable. Probably a good time to stay off the hard routes. Holds break easier when still still damp. Have fun.
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dang it.....I'm book with Saturday. Have fun and hope the window holds.
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my saturday partners just bailed, some I'm solo if anyone needs a belay or wants to car pool
denicolajoe@yahoo.com
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Hey Joe, I'm in.
The forecast looks grim for tomorrow, but I'm still game. I'll stock the pink cooler.
Munge, are you still in?? And which side??
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where do you think it will be warmer and sunnier?
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where do you think it will be warmer and sunnier?
Fiji, but that's 12 hrs from here.
I'd say Discovery wall.
Yoohooo Munge? Take a break from looking at Yahoo and let us know your plans.
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So you're thinking it will be dry enough? Is Disco wall a better choice than Machete?
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Don't ever say that "Disxx" word. Not ever. It is dead.
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it could be as well. more options like the sisters in addition to Discovery Wall. That's my opinion.
Muchshitty could work as I would like to add a bolt a a climb (per one of the FAist).
For bolt ladders there's Bills Bad Bolts and Dedelus.
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I'm pretty much set on West Side or High Peaks - projecting and doing some laps on something for enduro. I may hike the high peaks anyways at beginning or end of the day, but if Spyork or Joe or Factor has something in mind I'm amenable. Not much interested in Disco. Maybe Gerties.
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Sorry Munge, I have a Red Rocks trip in a month. I need to climb as many hard routes that I can. Running laps on Destiny or the Flumes wall just won't cut it.
Spyork- Go for Rock Around the Clock, just don't break anything. Be sure to bring your wire brush.
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I'm thinking about backing out. I dont want Clint and bhilden after me with Yo hammers. I can always leave it for a drier day.
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weak sauce
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I think we'll head for Discovery or Sisters to get started on Saturday morning. If you're over that way, I've got one of the old orange Edelrid helmets. So, shout a hello.
I'm probably the last person to figure this out, but I just found the bird closure map. How serious are they about this?
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/pin/overa081.pdf
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very, don't even think about it. More than any fine, you'll risk the balance between climbers and the rangers.
Have fun.
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Factor, laps on Machete Direct and SoD will get you strong. Then there is Toogs Trailside. Somebody bolt that line left of Machete Direct.
And, would someone please free the second pitch of SOD already. How long is this going to take. The suspense is killing me.
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SOD??
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sorry, never mind. Son Of Dawn.
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Insert Quote
I'm thinking about backing out. I dont want Clint and bhilden after me with Yo hammers. I can always leave it for a drier day.
They bolted the line with the idea of most of it free climb-able. But man, it needs more cleaning. Squiddo can attest to it ;D
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echo what Squiddo says about raptor closures. it's not about disturbing or not. it's about pissing off land managers and affecting access for others.
each time someone violates, they put another sign up. this is what happened from last time...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2302/2229588807_585b1fc1f4.jpg)
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And, would someone please free the second pitch of SOD already. How long is this going to take.
I only got on the first pitch once about 6 years ago, so my memory is pretty shaky. But, doesn't it climb into the pink super choss? Is anyone trying to free it?
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Karl, it stays in the water streak. looks sorta solid. (sorry no pic) I think Jim may have an interest in it.
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I cannot say that I tried to free it. However, I have tried it on TR. It is quite difficult but I think it would go. I was able to do it from move to move and was actually able to link some stuff together until I hold came off. That shut me down in one section. I think it is doable, perhaps not by me, but doable.
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Karl, I went back up today. (forgot my second full size rope, so didn't climb this second pitch) here's a pic of it...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2065/2237726207_b12c017ba5_o.jpg)
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Thanks.
Much more solid looking than I remember. It looks pretty cool and featured. How steep is it?
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Hey Karl,
Nice job on pick pocket. I go to enjoy it yesterday as it was starting to rain.
There were only 3 other parties besides us. And no rain until 4pm.
Come on munge, you gotta do the 2nd part of the 1st pitch. You do need two ropes to get off.
We talked with Gavin, the bird guy and muchshitty is still open.
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Karl,
Overhangs about 5 degrees.
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Overhangs about 5 degrees.
Sounds like a tough pitch.
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Nice job on pick pocket. I go to enjoy it yesterday as it was starting to rain.
Thanks. It's nice to hop on it on the way out, because it catches sun at the end of the day.
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In my book Pickpocket gets 3 stars. Good rock, fun moves & close to the parking lot.
headwall on SOD....good luck! Maybe dump a can of epoxy down the face to bond the holds to the wall???
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It will go it is just a matter of who.
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It will go it is just a matter of who.
How hard does it feel?
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it feels pretty hard from my seat:-) Of course, I'm at work......I need to start feeling ill so I can go enjoy the sunshine. Monday sun is murder aint it:-(
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I think it will be hard 12 to mid 13. It is a bit steep and thin. Considering what you did on Gorilla's I think you might be a candidate. The plus side is, it has been bolted.
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Thanks, but I haven't been to the west side in about 5 years. I haven't even made it to Pinns this season. I would love to give it a go, but I don't think I could get down there enough times in a row to get it. Not to mention finding a partner willing to put up with it.
I think you are a more likely candidate. I think it would be a cool line though. I still have fond memories of leading the first pitch and not knowing that there would be 17 or so bolts. I leap frogged 2 draws for the last 8 or 9 bolts.
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Gee Karl, you can do it. I'd even belay you to watch.
Another candidate is Burner. Where is that guy?
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Muchshitty could work as I would like to add a bolt a a climb (per one of the FAist).
What climb is getting another bolt? I saw Drop Zone mentioned earlier....
Climbed this a couple weeks ago...Great route! Lots of booty on the way too!
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booty???!?!?!
damn, i knew I should have gone up there.
ahhaahahah, probably still to crusty for the newbies so they are leaving bail biners?
F4 did you get down there and add that bolt yet? make it a good one, don't botch it.
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ahhaahahah, probably still to crusty for the newbies so they are leaving bail biners?
Bail Biners?..Hardly!
Try brand new full on quickdraws! I love this trend!!
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F4 did you get down there and add that bolt yet? make it a good one, don't botch it.
Not yet, and it sounds like I missed out on more gear than just a biner. Don't worry I'll make it a nice bolt. I'll stop by OSH on my way down. Heck I even have red paint. ;D ;D
Karl, can you climb on saturdays?
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F4,
I can climb most Saturdays. However, when you have a wife who climbs, you have to take her plans into consideration. So the true answer is a few Saturdays.
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Well keep us in mind.
My wife is expecting, so I can get out now....until July.
If the weather is good, we'll be down on the E-side this Saturday. I need to toughen Squiddo up for RR.
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WHO leaves quickdraws? Where they those funky omega wire gates. Those are F4's!
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anyone climbing this saturday? It looks like I'll need a belay partner.
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Not yet, and it sounds like I missed out on more gear than just a biner. Don't worry I'll make it a nice bolt. I'll stop by OSH on my way down. Heck I even have red paint. ;D ;D
Karl, can you climb on saturdays?
you MUST use a red hanger. failure to do so negates any permissions.
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Does Redline need another bolt? Mudworm did the runout. Did no think it was to bad.
I think there will be a few of us down at the Pins on Sat. Most likely around Discovery Wall and the Monolith. You can probably beg a belay from someone.
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Does Redline need another bolt? Mudworm did the runout. Did no think it was to bad.
I think there will be a few of us down at the Pins on Sat. Most likely around Discovery Wall and the Monolith. You can probably beg a belay from someone.
I'm agnostic at the point, but I thought you were one of the ones that said it needs the anchor dropped?
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Does Redline need another bolt? Mudworm did the runout...
What do ya mean by that? ::)
F4 and Joe did 10 routes last Saturday. Let's strive to top that this Saturday. ;D
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Does Redline need another bolt? Mudworm did the runout. Did no think it was to bad.
I thought it was Drop Zone that needed one? And an arrow showing where to go for the belay. :-*
Yes, most were 11s. (1-5.8, 3x10a & the rest 10D+. I'd like to hit 12 if my body will allow it.
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has wet kiss been downgraded to 5.8?
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5.6 8)
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I thought it was Drop Zone that needed one? And an arrow showing where to go for the belay. :-*
FWIW---I liked the fact that this was a 199 foot pitch. Lowering the anchors would make it a lesser climb.
I felt that the runout at the top was fairly unmentionable, but there was one section about midway where I felt I was pretty focused, making tougher moves 15-20 feet above a bolt. If anywhere is "runout", it is here. I was, however, climbing back and forth between Drop Zone and Redline snagging quickdraws, so I could have missed a bolt on Drop Zone in the throes of my delight.
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FWIW---I liked the fact that this was a 199 foot pitch. Lowering the anchors would make it a lesser climb.
I felt that the runout at the top was fairly unmentionable, but there was one section about midway where I felt I was pretty focused, making tougher moves 15-20 feet above a bolt. If anywhere is "runout", it is here. I was, however, climbing back and forth between Drop Zone and Redline snagging quickdraws, so I could have missed a bolt on Drop Zone in the throes of my delight.
new variant to the routes? :)