MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mynameismud on March 03, 2008, 09:23:19 AM
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For the third weekend. Yo Mama Step Across, perhaps it should be called Clints Crimp Fest. Short but Fierce.
Stepping off a boulder and doing 4 moves doesn't seem all that hard, but it is.
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I'm surprised. So, what's your plan, keep trying or go on to something else for now?
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If it is not raining I will be there next weekend. The Mudworm gets big props for her patience.
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I'm surprised. So, what's your plan, keep trying or go on to something else for now?
Maybe buy a pair of new shoes for starters??? mudworm can always put L & R for you instead of wearing 2x different pairs.
Maybe shedding more weight? I hear lycra is pretty light.
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Also consider reading...... :D
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51XIar10cJL._AA240_.jpg)
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Mr Mud,
I too think you deserve a pair of new shoes. Blame it on the rubber. Either that or a stepladder. :P
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Factor - DIE
The stepladder approach most likely will present the best results for the money.
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F4 and Squddo, I'm totally with you on the new shoes. Stuffing the shoes with laundry drying sheets does not help at all and even the drying sheets become stinky too!!!
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Mudworm,
And that's not even speaking to the holes!!
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Sent it*
Sent it: On one of the tries, he got all the moves.
*: Above the crux, his left foot popped (a little pebble audibly broke off below his foot). His right hand was bomber though. He almost certainly would have caught himself. However, I just took in the rope, so the rope came tight too.
He is determined to go back and erase the *.
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you know I have to, even though it makes absolutely no sense given that he's really already done it.
DAB!!!
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Yep, dab.
I definitely weighted the rope. When the pebble broke my left foot went which caused my left hand to go. First thing through my mind was DAM here I go again. I felt the rope as I was rotating out. Right hand and right foot were very good. My brain finally kicked in and pulled in hard with both. The pause killed it.
Managed to get the critical 4th move twice. First time my left foot kept skating second time the hold broke. Arrgggghhhhh.
The weather was beautiful and the crowds were fairly mellow. The wild flowers are starting to bloom. Perfect time of the years.
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Posted from the Blue Butterfly Inn. Stuck climbing in the Valley.
I agree with Mr Mud, bleminshed ascent. But, good work, sounds like you'll get if for sure, and soon.
Among other routes, we did an interesting new 4 pitch 5.8 on Reed's yesterday.
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Brad, I'm game....lets hear it!
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Um, let's hear what?
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I cannot get this route out of my mind. It is incredibly crimp intesive. We basically traded off climbing. I would give Yo Mama a burn then Mike and and mudworm would do a route. Back and forth till my fingers were fried. Since after 2 or 3 try's I have to give my fingers a rest for 20 minutes or so.
Both Mike and mudworm agreed that I could say that I had done the route but an asteric has to be placed behind the ascent. Now, all I have to do is remove that asteric since it is burning a hole in my brain.
Between climbin and bikin my whole body is sore.
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You've been climbin in a bikini? :o I am not surprised that your sore.
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Brad, I don't know what squiddo wanted to hear, but I want to hear more about that new 4 pitch 5.8. We might make it a project of ours if/when we get out to Yosemite again.
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Karl,
Give Yo Mama (the TR version) a try and let me know what you think. Is it just me or is this route particularly difficult.
I always climb in a bikini, since my bottom is soooo sexy.
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Mud,
My friend Duane did Yo Mama and didn't find it terribly difficult. Maybe it is hard to start from the step across and somewhat easier to climb into.
Where does the TR step across start? Isn't the route a step across already?
As for checking it out, I have tentative plans to be in Pinns (the first time since May) in about a week. I'll try to get on it.
K
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We met two climbers Saturday at the base of Luntic Fringe who'd just done this relatively newly established four pitch 5.8 to our left. They'd gotten the topo from someone they saw at parking who'd done it that morning. They passed on the topo to us. Jim and I ran up it.
Jim thought one star, I thought it was worth doing once, but no stars. The party before us commented that they thought the route was 5.9 is one or more places. Jim and I thought it was definitely 5.9 at the end of the second pitch with the move protected by a bolt at your knees. Possibley 5.9 at two other places too. The non 5.9 sections had some significant runouts. Very inventive line, which wanders between weaknesses.
I scanned the topo and I see no harm in posting it here (I'll do that this evening from my Mac, which is easier to use for that sort of thing). I'll email it now to Mudworm who could, perhaps post it sooner for me (if it is convenient for her)? Note that the climb that shares the first few moves with this new route, but then continues straight up to bolts and a flake is shown in the current Valley Guidebook. I don't have the name here, but in that book's topo the flake is marked "scary."
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Karl,
the step across starts on good holds between the 1st and 2nd bolt. The moves below that look quite thin to me.
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...I scanned the topo ...I'll email it now to Mudworm who could, perhaps post it sooner for me ...
Brad, do you really think someone will want to jump on it this afternoon, or even tomorrow? Especially after that "one star", "no stars", "runouts", "scary" talk? ::)
Okay, for anyone who is dying to get on this rad route, here is the topo (http://www.mudncrud.com/filetransfer/forum_attachments/reeds5.8topo.pdf) in PDF format.
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Mudworm asked:
"Brad, do you really think someone will want to jump on it this afternoon, or even tomorrow? Especially after that "one star", "no stars", "runouts", "scary" talk?"
No, Mudworm, probably not. I guess I try to comply with requests with a little more priority than I should. Gets stuff off my "to do" list. Thanks anyway for the help.
"Rad route." Yeah, rad.
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Brad,
Next time photo copy the topo before you crumple it up and put it in your pocket.
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Mud, last night you said "wad it up". As insensitive as I am to the subtle differences between English words, I thought it was funnier when you said it that way -- it kept me chuckling for five minutes after I went to bed. :D
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take two.
Brad,
Next time photo copy the topo before you wad it up and put it in your pocket.
remember
lock, chalk, hit the rock
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Yeah, I'll get handed a topo at the base of a crag and run straight down to a copy machine. And Jim carried the topo. It's all Jim's fault. Let's get him.
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Sorry, delay due to being tired. Mudworm nailed it, I wanted to hear about the new 4 pitch Reeds route.
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Brad,
We ended up hanging with those guys later in the day at Generator crack and it is their
FA (they've actually got a BUNCH (100+) new routes). They have no name for it and no desire to name it (strange). When discussing the rating they called it 'spicy 5.8'. I though that was kinda amusing.
kev
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We know how good you are at drawing topo's.
We want originals.
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Sent it!!!
Mud is not home yet, but he called on his way. Yesterday, I invited a bunch of climbers for dinner just so that I could find Mud a belay partner. It worked. F4 took the bait. Actually, I'll start calling F4 Mud's "good lucky star" now. There are compelling reasons. For example, Mud worked on Machete Arch to no avail until one day F4 went with him; now after half a dozen failed attempts, he succeeded on Yo Mama Step Across only with F4's belay; plus, Mud has me now all because of F4 (okay, I'm not sure if the last one is good luck or back luck).
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;D
3 or 4 elevens.
Was pickpocket an onsight?
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Pickpocket was not onsite since I have been on it before. Felt casual today.
Got the ones I really needed today. Yo Mama TR, DeckChairs, Pickpocket. Whoohoo. One more to go. I sent today with Erik but mudworm get a very warm thank you since she did belay duty 4 weekends in a row.
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I took the bait???
I was wanting to get out and at the same time not lead everything.
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Wow, what a day for Mr Mud. I expected Yo Mama, but Deck Chairs too? Apparently now marital bliss will be easy; you got most of what you wanted out of the Pinns season, and now you can move on to the Valley and keep Mudworm happy. Maybe talk her into a token day or two on this pass?
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One more trip down so I have have at least one token effort on Ranger Bolts. Weekend after that will be in the valley.
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I took the bait???
I was wanting to get out and at the same time not lead everything.
Heehee, of course you knew I didn't invite you guys over to bite some "baits". :D Thank you for willing to climb with Mud. And somehow I had the feeling that if he went with you, he would get it. I guess it worked out well for all of us. I moved our file cabinets, his computer desk, his 21" CRT monitor all into the living room and did NOT even break a finger! My wrists are sore though from assembling two shelves without a power tool (no metric sockets).
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This Friday anyone???
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Do you get Good Friday off? :o Do you work in a post office, or something?
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Mudworm....he acts like he works in a PO. BTW, I'll be in the Eastside next week. Anyone down for some OR Gorge, ping me.
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Well this weekend I got shutdown on Ranger Bolts. but had fun.
Wet kiss L
Big Pucker TR
Broken Arrow L
Verdict L
Deck Chairs L
Ranger Bolts L (A0) (first 1/2 only)
Ranger Bolts TR (first 1/2 only)
Hawaiian Noises L
POD TR
Feed The Beast L (fall/hang)
Cantaloupe Death L
Hot Lava 1st move of the TR step across.
Met a German couple that flew from Germany to climb at the Pinnacles for a 4 day weekend. They were inspired by the pics of Broken Arrow and Heat Seeking Moisture missile.
Told ya'll this place is world class.
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Not too bad for a late start, eh? (We hiked to Discovery Wall at 11am.)
Well, you have to disclose that the guy thought Yosemite was only climbable in September and October. He said that it was wet and cold everywhere in Europe, so he decided to travel a little farther to the sunny California for a few days of climbing. What a life! When he showed up, we were just done with Big Pucker. He had THE guidebook in hand looking for Broken Arrow. We talked them into doing Wet Kiss first. He did a good job on BA, but thought the anchor was kinda "stupid." :) They both still use munter hitch to belay.
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yeah, but you missed the beer in the parking lot. I brought a couple of extra for you hard folk, but was forced to drink them when you didn't show up.
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Dang,
I guess that is what we get for being the last car out.
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Insert Quote
Dang,
I guess that is what we get for being the last car out.
Where are your priorities man? Cold beer was there waiting for you. Did you get lost again?
He said that it was wet and cold everywhere in Europe,
And the weather in Spain doesn't count? I'd go climbing there in a heart beat!
Ranger Bolts L (A0) (first 1/2 only)
Ranger Bolts TR (first 1/2 only)
How was the 1st pitch crux?
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Uncle Stinky did not make it. Could not get a full day off,had to get ready for Easter. Went up for a short day at Yosemite and got back early. Maybe next month I'll go camping for the weekend.
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Hey Uncle Stink, some of us are going to be at the Grotto next weekend. You are welcome to join.
Btw, is it Cal Dome time yet?
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I do not think the crux is any harder. The flake that broke off is now a hole with a very good edge. the rail below has broken off but I think all in all is about the same.
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Erik, nice work on the send for Yo Mama Stepacross! That crux move is very tough! The asterisk version was also so darn close...
Chris Bellizzi told me he thought the first half of Ranger Bolts is 5.12b now, because Hristo broke off a hold on it, about 5 years ago.
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Clint good to hear from you and thank you. Yes those moves on Yo Mama TR are a bugger.
Yea that was the flake located near the last bolt on the first half. After the hold broke it was a bit sloper and crumbly. Now the hole is large and the edge is incut and is actually better than ever. Looks almost sculpted. However it got to the way it is, the hold is now very friendly and very positive. Before the hold broke it was fairly positive but not friendly.
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Chris Bellizzi told me he thought the first half of Ranger Bolts is 5.12b now, because Hristo broke off a hold on it, about 5 years ago.
Clint and Erik,
The last time I was on Ranger Bolts was just under two years ago. Unless something has dramatically changed, it still felt like soft 12a. I don't think the route has changed much since the first time I climbed it about 5 years ago. I know some people say 11d, but I always felt that was too sandbag.
Maybe I climbed it after the broken hold. If I did, it was Tom Shores who broke it. There used to be a positive crimp for the right hand (in the middle of the crux). Now all that is left is this super thin pocket where the crimp used to be. I never climbed it with the hold in place, but Tom showed it to me once. It looked pretty nice.
Karl
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Erik,
Are you only working the first anchor part of Ranger Bolts? For some reason, I thought you were trying the whole thing.
Karl
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Karl,
Yep trying the whole thing. I was just trying to get the lower half dialed and since I blew getting to the anchors I stopped there and did a clean TR.
I have done it pre and post hold breaking. For a while the new hold was not so good. Last weekend the hold was very positive. I had not experienced this new version of the hold before. There is an actual hole now and part of a knob is visible where the outer rock has broken away.
On TR I able to setup on the broken up ledge and chalk then reach up for the next hold. It is very positive. For now anyway.
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Are you only working the first anchor part of Ranger Bolts? For some reason, I thought you were trying the whole thing.
Hey Karl, your not alone. We've all been wondering when he's going to get the whole thing. ;D
Well if it's not 12b then there's a chance for me. Whew!
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I had not experienced this new version of the hold before. There is an actual hole now and part of a knob is visible where the outer rock has broken away.
Where is the broken hold? From what I remember of the crux, it goes something like this...
Clip the last draw high from a jug. Rest in some sort of stem.
Right hand goes to a pocket (where there used to be a hold).
High back-step and reach up to a couple of sloped left hands (the right one is better).
Bring your feet up.
Right hand goes to some piece of junk which you can match (I think) or just bump off.
I used to bump to a broken-ish flake, then match it (maybe).
You work around this flake and find a nice stem and clip the anchor.
I think there is a clip 1' left of the anchor that I always blew off (I use it for the full version and skip the anchor).
So, where is the broken hold?
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Sounds kinda right. I think this is saying about the same thing.
Good pocket for the left. Pocket edge for the right.
Left goes up to one of the two sloped lefts, right is better.
Feet come up.
Right hand goes to edge where there is now a hole with a good edge where the crimp broke off, which is close to the bolt.
Horizontally left 4 to 5 feet there is a knob that can be used for a side pull/crimp for the left. I use this bring my left foot up and to adjust the right hand.
Left goes high to an edge with a thumb catch.
I bring the right up to an edge then bump to the broken flake near the bolt.
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I think the way I do it adds a couple of moves. From the good hold that is used to clip the bolt I go tothe pocket edge with the right then traverse left so that I can get my left in the hole. I go up from there.
I do not back step in the sequence at all. I should probably do more of that to save energy.
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Ok, now I know which hold broke. It's good to know that it's only that hold, because you just use it to bump to the good flake. Any little chip would work. I know that when I feel strong on the route, I skip that hold and go straight to the flake.
The beta your using is about the same as the beta Audrey used. It works well for short people.
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Holy Sheep Dip!
skip that hold and go straight to the flake.
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It works well for short people.
Good to know!
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Wet Kiss L
Big Pucker TR
Verdict L
Trial 1st Bolt then shutdown
Between a Rock and a Hard Place TR
Broken Arrow L
Here Comes the Judge TR
Here Comes the Judge TR
Buffulo Soldier TR
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Here Comes the Judge...pretty cool route. Mudworm made it look easy...
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Fairly short day. Just was not feeling real spry.
Wet Kiss L
Big Pucker TR
Ranger Bolts L Fell at chains then aided up past crux move and setup an anchor.
Worked crux throw and was actually able to do the move twice.
Ranger Bolts TR fell at chains worked moves into crux throw.
Feed the Beast. L