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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on December 01, 2005, 11:42:23 PM

Title: Convenience Anchors- worthy or not?
Post by: mungeclimber on December 01, 2005, 11:42:23 PM

http://www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/route_info.php3?sortby=date,side,area,formation&sort=desc





Saw the recent activity... Though very convenient. I wonder if we aren't trending toward a 'sport environment' even more than we have?



If so, why not rappel bolting and make them safe climbs?

Title: Convenience Anchors- worthy or not?
Post by: F4? on December 02, 2005, 08:11:47 AM

I though we were?? Except for a few premaddonas (SP?)?:wink:



By the way I did notice new rap bolts on the boulder to the left of the top of swollows crack. Funny that one hanger was missing and it wasn't in the best of rock.  I didn't use it, nor did I see anyone use the one bolt.

Title: Convenience Anchors- worthy or not?
Post by: Anonymous on December 02, 2005, 09:35:28 AM

If you are going to put bolts in the face of a rock, why not rap bolt it and get the best placements possible? If holes are going into the rock anyway, who cares? Now, if the climb is not going to be bolted at all UNLESS it is rap bolted, then maybe not.

Title: Convenience Anchors- worthy or not?
Post by: The Big on December 02, 2005, 10:45:49 AM

I have seen rap bolts that were not put in very well.  I have also seen rap bolts that were put at a stance that was not natural.  It probably seemed natural to the FA person since they rehearsed the moves before bolting it.