MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: Brad Young on September 09, 2008, 06:19:45 PM
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When I find nice lines I like to give them names that remind me of friends. Hope on a Rope is obvious. Four Days On and Three Days Off are adjacent routes I named for my friend Dave H. He is a firefighter and for three decades that was his work schedule. I named Rob's Rocks, which looks like it has superb bouldering, for our own Mungeclimber; he likes bouldering, I don't.
Here's my latest. When I first met my good friend Jim, we'd climb and camp and hang out. And it seemed like he was always eating Top Ramen for breakfast. So I started calling him Maruchan Man. And I finally found a line worthy of the name. Steep to overhanging face with edges and exposure. And good rock. Enough edges that it went at 5.10a. Unfortunately we thought two stars instead of three - the route's not perfect at the very top; a ledge allows a fourth class finish. Still, we had a ball on lead. Thought we'd use some fixed pins, but after the very first piece (I fixed a Lost Arrow) all the "cracks" were bottoming and really thin. I drilled two separate bolts while hanging off Knifeblades and/or Arrows that later came out with 1 - 5 hits. Jim put in one bolt off similar gear. A few small stoppers supplement the bolts.
Placing the third bolt:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3273/2844852446_8309dd35f0.jpg?v=0)
Placing the fourth bolt (the offending ledge is just above Jim):
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3250/2844852152_2b13021b6c.jpg?v=0)
So, now I'm on the hunt for another great line. This time the name I'm looking to use is: "The Unbelievably Smart and Beautiful Lady Who Climbs and Bikes and the Old Goat Who Broke Her Finger." Stay tuned.
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Awsome Brad. That looks like a fun place to spend some time. Looks like an Indian Chief.
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The brand of noodles, is Maruchan. That's the connection between the name and the noodle in case anyone isn't familiar with Costco sized orders of cup of noodles.
:)
good pics
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Rob's right, Maruchan is the noodle brand. We did a short route to the right that we called Flavor Packet (no stars, but maybe a pat on the back for being so clever?).
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Indian Chief.....man I haven't been there in years! Had much fun pulling down there in the day and eating burrito's and drinking beer at night. Wait, how is that any different to any other place:-)
Brad, is this on SNP? It looks nice.
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Nice line.
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Squiddo, yeah, it's up here. Mr Mud, I told VLY you'd give me a famous "DIE" response. Now she'll be dissappointed.
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Wow, now all I need is someone to show me around SNP. Hmmmm, who could help me in the cause:-)
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Forget it, Pinnacles season is almost here.
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yep, Brad's right, nothing to see here. move along.
"look sir, droids!"
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very nice.
been back to Mariulumne?
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Never made it back. With going to Italy, it might be out until next year. You done up there for the season now?
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The Youngs in Italy? Wow.
How come you are hand drilling?
Old Goat who broke her finger...classic
now all I need is someone to show me around SNP.
What, you looking for a date? Do they have to take you out to dinner as well?
Edit, now I see...the area is Wilderness. Makes sense.
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"You done up there for the season now?"
not sure. supposed to go to the valley (S-S) next week, but holding open the possibility of one more wafer thin mint.
went back to Mariuloumne with Greg to do a FA through multiple roofs next to Stomper, but we didn't get it clean. did all of Crystal Meth for the approach. also spent a day at Murphy Creek, Penguin Cafe was stout but fun. Last day was on Ursala, incredibly good given that it was only 3 pitches.
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SS = Steak and Salad? Nice
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I couldn't eat another bite.
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Good medicine day. Harden and I went out to Burst climbing. On the way back a beautiful bear ran across the dirt road right in front of us. Man he was moving. And we got a good long look at him.
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I couldn't eat another bite.
A sad fool who spends way too much time on 108.
Steak & Salad is the valley name for Steck Salathe
Any somebody please take Squiddo to Gianellie Edges. He wants to see more of 108.
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Squiddo, can you join us on Saturday (2 days from now) at the AAC get together? It's up here at Burst Rock. Many people you know and have heard of will be there. Tons of fun, although it's more social climbing than serious hard stuff. Our house is open if you can do it.
And why is Munge "spending too much time on 108?" He seems to like it and have a ton of fun. It's good climbing here with no crowds and no hassles. What could be better?
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Pinnacles!
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Yeah, well, OK, I meant other than the obvious what could be better.
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Off balance stance using a 1/2" deep Knifeblade to hold me in place (I had another tenuous pin to the left). Also using my left leg to cross pressure on some blocks. After the bolt was in I teetered three blocks off. Quite a show.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3178/2852259090_5c51ce48fb.jpg?v=0)
Bad photo (too much glare) but it shows how steep it is.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3290/2851425689_e6224ee814.jpg?v=0)
No big deal of a route, but, I thought I'd make an occasional post while we're waiting for Pinns season.
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Anything climbing related is always welcomed.
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We finally got out yesterday and redpointed Maruchan Man. A little cool with a breeze on a north face at 8400 feet in October. Very smooth, we both led it. Good pro, great exposure, fun moves. 5.10b **.
We were cool enough there that we decided to move to the South Face of Burst. There we went mostly shirtless and wished we had shorts. Jim and I both redpointed Fracture Clinic, a three star 5.11a crack. It overhangs severely for the first half, but is great hands. The crux is an odd size halfway up, and then it's vertical #4 Camalot size. Both of us had been on it before 5 years or so ago. We both redpointed it just baaarely. I thought I was off for sure way above the only #4 I had. If 100% is falling off I was at 99.9%. Totally pumped. Ten minutes after I finished this lead I noticed my right shoulder was hurting. I guess I was really scumming it into the crack:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3237/2965217199_df35841677_m.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3284/2965217169_ce6ed372c2.jpg?v=0)
Fun day. One of the last of the High County season, I suspect.
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dude, go take that trash talk to those pudknockers on SPH forum.
sheesh
;D
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Are the scars due to bad technique??
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I suppose that is one way of looking at it. On the other hand, any time I can redpoint a 5.11 crack I'm OK with my technique. I know I cranked pretty hard on a ring jam at one overhanging part.
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"Maruchan Man," and I climbed Pinns this last weekend. Breakfast in the East Side campground, the origin of a name:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2797/4456616468_21c834dd7f_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4455837795_bbdae4162a_b.jpg)