MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on October 29, 2008, 04:54:25 PM
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Couldn't figure out where the other main pic threads went, so starting a new one with some old images I ran across.
http://www.jeffnjen.com/images/climbing/pinns/CD3.jpg
Salad on Cantaloupe, circa Boreal Stingers
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http://www.jeffnjen.com/images/climbing/pinns/dennisbolt5.jpg
Mud on Splatter Matt
the Splatter part...
http://www.jeffnjen.com/images/climbing/pinns/bloodonrock2.jpg
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http://www.jeffnjen.com/images/climbing/pinns/brad_feed4.jpg
Brad on Feed The Beast
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http://www.jeffnjen.com/images/climbing/pinns/harry_rat_race4.jpg
Harry Richards on Rat Race (my monitor makes this too dark to see in the shadows, but I trust that he's in there somewhere)
btw, all these here to fore are Salad's images.
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Hmmm, everyone looks skinny. Compared to now....
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(http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/Images/drillinabovebolt.jpg)
Salad on FA of Full Throttle
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3293/3015004486_2c30796497.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3192/3014167943_33f4875928.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/3015001690_cefbabecc2.jpg)
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Did it rain much? It sure did here...
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sprinkles at the end of day and on the drive back it started to really rain.
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(http://www.californiabouldering.com/images/pinns/lapetitmort2.jpg)
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(http://www.californiabouldering.com/images/pinns/lapetitemort1.jpg)
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(http://www.californiabouldering.com/images/pinns/lapetitemortTR1.jpg)
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(http://www.californiabouldering.com/images/pinns/lapetitemortTR2.jpg)
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Me on the 18,000th ascent of Cantaloupe Death. ;)
(http://photos-g.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2103/91/94/507188252/n507188252_1344078_8203.jpg)
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3455/3354827523_5f181c5d70_b.jpg)
Munge on the Beast a long while ago.
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(http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/del45.jpg)
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sweet tights!
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Those were dark times. In more than one way.
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(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/p1.jpg)
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(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/p2-1.jpg)
Lost Sister 05'
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(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/p3.jpg)
Left to right: Franco, CC, Tyler Martin "The blonde Giant", Steve Bosque "Bosqarilla", Mark Stauckus "Rex"
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finally some pics!!!
keep em going, i bet there's more...
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(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/h2-1.jpg)
The "Breeze" On Coyote.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/hook.jpg)
SOD Solo right before the storm came in and just about washed me off.
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3484/3929975180_6312338da5.jpg)
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shaking and baking
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/239074286_jFjBC-M.jpg)
Poser..it wasn't that steep.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/photos/44857854_8aFXk-M.jpg)
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(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/226874086_aeaa0675a0_o.jpg)
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this is for the Noots-fans out there, notice either the dyno or the fall...
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/76/226875582_13bd264247_o.jpg)
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I believe Brad took this pic of Mynameismud using mud's camera on "Where the Birds Hang" on an investigatory trip...
(http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles/2006Dec25/P4220023/118899827_Zggje-M-1.jpg)
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Is that a bolt next to his foot?
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can't tell on this image, check his smugmug and see if there is an original sized one.
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THe noots is on Mushitty Directissma, I am pretty sure I was in aiders right about there!
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I stil haven't done that route. So need to.
I kinda wanna get benighted on it.
Uber und Choss
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2197/2087685999_9e7d4434de.jpg)
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I would not toss that dyno since that hold is loose.
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i think he was fallin, but I like to think positive sometimes. :)
since the Uber is buried under work... I post as his proxy...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2388/2087686151_262a192285.jpg)
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(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/60/226875867_08be22682d.jpg)
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This is some serious pictures peeps, let's see um...
artsy, no?
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/80/226875803_f8741b19fe.jpg)
seriously thinking about a DSLR
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Were you guys doing a P-Shoot on Muchshitty direct that day? Jeepers, you have Noots, MrMud and Uber (why is he the only one with a shirt on??).
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I think he had a nasty sunburn, IIRC.
i was injured so was just taking some pics. lots of them came out really well. i think you were there, or did you have to take off?
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i was injured so was just taking some pics. lots of them came out really well. i think you were there, or did you have to take off?
I don't remember much from that day or night. I think we did head out earlier.
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F4 had a few Spaten in his pack so.....it's all GHEY I mean GRAY after that.
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(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/76/226876118_3749ca7deb_o.jpg)
Mushitti
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thats a tight belay!
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HA, wait....is doing that move on tension>> >:D
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I was drinking Arrgant bastards at 12noon in 100+ heat watching Mr. Mud climb.
Yah, I think mr mud is taking some tension there.
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I was drinking Arrgant bastards at 12noon in 100+ heat watching Mr. Mud climb.
Please, you're like a girl on beer #2 and now you expect me to believe you are belaying too?
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Try climbing 11's while someone is pulling on the rope.
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Try climbing 11's while someone is pulling on the rope.
I'm told that Factor does that all the time.
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I thot it was chain?
badump dump
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I'm told that Factor does that all the time.
heh heh heh
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Insert Quote
Quote from: My Name is Mud on Today at 10:03:52 AM
Try climbing 11's while someone is pulling on the rope.
I'm told that Factor does that all the time.
What doesn't hurt you, makes you stronger.
I love it, Munge says I give too much slack.
Enter this new fangled device....
(http://www.mountaingear.com/item_images/mnfct2//common/trango/m_114056_s06_blu.jpg)
Bought it with belaying Brad in mind ;D
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i said nothing Colonel Hogan!
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well the cinch lets the climber pull out the slack. That's how easy the rope can go through. Of course it locks down in a snap.
It's okay Munge, Squiddo gets his knickers in a bunch sometimes. Mr Mud...doubt if he even notices.
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It's okay Munge, Squiddo gets his knickers in a bunch sometimes.
It's true.....I like a snug belay. Not too loose and not too tight. Unlike the cable belay in that picture. Maybe that was so the belayer could keep a keen on on the arse of the climber. I can hear banjo's playing from here.
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enough bs, post some pics
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2677/4051093901_e737452985.jpg)
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2666/4051103045_66c3d1eca3.jpg)
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/4052117426_1076c7b33a.jpg)
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/4051372881_56f218c3ee.jpg)
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John McCoy on the first continuous ascent of Cuidado. Looking straight down the third pitch.
(http://jdistudios.com/photos/you%27re_cheating.jpg)
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John McCoy on the first continuous ascent of Cuidado. Looking straight down the third pitch.
(http://jdistudios.com/photos/you%27re_cheating.jpg)
Cool shot.
PS, old school Pinn climbers with no helmets is one thing but man...Jeff, Mr Mud....you guys are NUTS!
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that is neat!
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Nice shot.
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let's keep this Pinns party going...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/4073850711_bd44ff3980.jpg)
it's not the season yet, but soon, so soon!
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Beg to Differ there Munge! IT"S ON!!!!!@@@@@@@@
What have you been up to?
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fooling around
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2571/4071302908_41ced115eb.jpg)
but it's going to be much colder this weekend
quick day trip on Sunday
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(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Misc-Pinns-Stuff/Lanepiedrasbonitas/44857848_hGTJh-L.jpg)
It's not Pinns, but they did leave Jtree to go to the pinns...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/J-Tree/MeiDoublecross1/45963938_C6kGT-L.jpg)
I think he got his hands stuck??
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/J-Tree/StromBeardedCabbage2/45963947_j4Ayk-L.jpg)
One for the mags...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/J-Tree/Stromhobbit1/45963943_v6bVA-L.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Pinnacles120305/PatRegRt2/46968226_PJGeN-L.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Discovery-Wall-010706/PhotoDelightE/131830210_ZwEuj-L.jpg)
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One more that I've been meaning to throw up here..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Misc-Pinns-Stuff/WesidePlots/719894010_MC3aS-L.jpg)
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NICE view of an EMPTY lot. Sweetnessssss
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Not a great shot but the local Paper-ran this today much to my surprise. Large photo on the back of the first section as "Photo of the week"
Sophia
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n96/uncle-stinky/cabinandpinnaclesmarch09168.jpg)
Taken last spring on family trip-
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(http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles/Dave-Woods-Collections-Copy/Pins0006/44008843_a4uvf-M-1.jpg)
Photos from Dave Woods collection
(http://mudncrud.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles/Dave-Woods-Collections-Copy/Pins0014/44008977_gTWFG-M-1.jpg)
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Who is that????
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come on, don't play like that.
he is our hero of the mud.
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(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4247328238_db874a0809.jpg)
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4265471838_2d085079db.jpg)
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(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6218/6409483295_687e99f9f8_b.jpg)
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Hey Munge, I thought I saw you taking photos while I was climbing Broken Arrow... I recognize my tell-tale webbing chest harness!
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There is that shirtless guy again.....hoe does he get the rope up there?
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/6480645047_52c936ff8d_z.jpg)
bunch of weaksauce posters around her.
got no pics, get no mad props.
DO IT!
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7015/6480670035_c1c6a394f2_z.jpg)
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=61302&g2_serialNumber=2)
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=61302&g2_serialNumber=2)
Ranger Bolts?
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great pic of Ranger Bolts.
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Enjoy, I've mixed it up a bit....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/RedRocks11/P1000160/1233416921_MF47k-S.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/RedRocks11/P1000157/1233416544_8PU3Y-S.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/PinnaclesApr11/i-WWffBtS/0/S/P1000277-S.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/PinnaclesApr11/i-jbWWrr5/0/S/P1000278-S.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Pinns11/DSC3752/1172833562_dm8jq-L.jpg)
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Thread title changed!
On topic!
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Like the Arete picture.
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Like the Arete picture.
Loved the new bolts......kept the massacre low.
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Keep 'em coming!
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Red-Rocks-Las-Vegas-NV/Spring-with-Bratton-2010/IMG0915/829062602_6qKxn-L.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Red-Rocks-Las-Vegas-NV/Spring-with-Bratton-2011/IMG0025/1246515191_ghnzQ-L.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Red-Rocks-Las-Vegas-NV/Spring-with-Bratton-2011/IMG0035/1246524337_rWaPn-L.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/High-Sierra/pic-download-25july-2010-053/949764784_wf8vf-L.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/LakeTahoe/2-July-Weekends-at-Lovers-Leap/HPIM1175/333119344_Egjzt-M.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-9nG28gM/0/L/IMG0081-L.jpg)
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/High-Sierra/Courtright-Reservoirt-2011/i-2qvnBsB/0/L/IMG0018-L.jpg)
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WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!! That granite shyte don't count. 'mud and crud' yo!!!
observe how I steal mtnyoung's embed opportunity...
real mud n crud by mudders
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/6469249509_e20a4f85fc_z.jpg)
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WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!! That granite shyte don't count. 'mud and crud' yo!!!
observe how I steal mtnyoung's embed opportunity...
real mud n crud by mudders
What about the sandstone....granite always counts. Love the fancy footwork Brad
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WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!! That granite shyte don't count. 'mud and crud' yo!!!
observe how I steal mtnyoung's embed opportunity...
real mud n crud by mudders
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/6469249509_e20a4f85fc_z.jpg)
I was shocked for a moment when I saw my photo in your post. Actually it's Jim's photo of me from my Flickr account. Then I was flattered that you'd actually look at that account.
Although you can probably name the route (it's labeled in Flickr), can you give the rating and it's location? And any guess at the FA date?
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hmmmm, much tougher questions than anticipated, but I'm an internet sleuther...
This photo was taken on December 3, 2011 using a Canon PowerShot A640.
The Back Nine!
I have footage or pics of a couple of bolts being placed, potentially. But I may have the wrong feature in mind.
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I've been thinking about other issues this week, and so I haven't updated the new routes sticky thread. The Back Nine is 5.10b **. Yes, you've got photos and you were there when some of the lower bolts were placed. Jim and I finished bolting it on the day before closures started in January. Then we redpointed it last Saturday (that's a photo of me leading just before the crux). I'll get some updates going here soon.
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I've been thinking about other issues this week, and so I haven't updated the new routes sticky thread. The Back Nine is 5.10b **. Yes, you've got photos and you were there when some of the lower bolts were placed. Jim and I finished bolting it on the day before closures started in January. Then we redpointed it last Saturday (that's a photo of me leading just before the crux). I'll get some updates going here soon.
Thanks Brad- yet another reason why the web is great- or this site for that reason. Looks like fun.
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More pictures....less yaking......
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More pictures....less yaking......
Keep it up and you'll get banned.
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles-National-Monument/Pinnacles/IMG0002/1178324210_cjvPb-L.jpg)
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Yeah right, Admin would never ban me...
And you worry about the squirrels going through your pack...watch out for this guy. He'll clean you out.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/PinnaclesApr11/i-PZqGZzp/0/L/P1000251-L.jpg)
Dude, this thing is wide! And how did you get a #2 to stick in the wall?
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5109/762006414_NPvaB-L-1.jpg)
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That is a large critter.
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That is a large critter.
You mean James right? >:(
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nope, nadda, nothing. Please move along nothing to see here.
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I could have instead said, "that's what she said".
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Westside Parking lot in January, maybe 10 degrees? ???
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Misc-Pinns-Stuff/WesidePlots/719894010_MC3aS-L.jpg)
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1 more picture for the day
Uber climbing @ the Monolith
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Misc-Pinns-Stuff/PinnaclesUbberMunge/44863076_EkHWb-L.jpg)
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(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2197/2087685999_9e7d4434de_z.jpg)
start of something silly
OPF
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I thought it was serious. Really want to know how much moss was scrubbed?
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none. that thing was clean as a whistle.
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Any soft brushing?
Any gerbils harmed?
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Some new pics from Conduit: see the trip report I added as a new topic.
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Given all of the new folks posting up....maybe folks can share a few pictures?....
Here are a few....
Guess where?
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/FeatherCanyon10/DSCF5106/762006982_xMRjw-L-1.jpg)
Is this WetKiss? I don't see many bolts...WTF??
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Pinns11/erikplauge2/1172828923_bXvoq-L.jpg)
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The best top out in the monument.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Westsidedec27/i-mg7Hccf/0/L/P1010077-L.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Westsidedec27/i-wSjgS5g/0/L/P1010087-L.jpg)
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KC on her first roped onsight lead - p2 Costanoan 7-4-12
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dbdtIv_ecyjfTy2V7HJSYikAWdGfshrONoF1MyaRw1PCPnrjEbSSkjFWEffoUO_4mzz52f66F4Ae9Hr7-v7_xDNUvUqVp6mXL58R7m4b5yMwgHY2vRlj_PtyZTiYs1gxaonzCGrvmZqZgJLP3wO66T=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Very nice
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KC on her first roped onsight lead - p2 Costanoan 7-4-12
Atta girl!! :thumbup:
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KC on her first roped onsight lead - p2 Costanoan 7-4-12
Great job Kathy!
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no more contributions??
Let's show Mungie what he's missing whilist he dances with sheep or whatever he's doing outside of Cali....
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We climbed at the Pinns this Wednesday (July 4th) with none other than Mr. 13b. Talk about "We argue and fight and can still be friends." :) When I asked Mr. Mud where his camera was, "oh...left in the car." So, sorry, no more contributions from us.
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Sticking with "firsts"...January 1st, 2012, first lead - Sinbad
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/382859_209395725816103_325496750_n.jpg)
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first tracks on the West Side on the 4th
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eGWUhSVoXqrXTVQbiPB-oxCRFSktumAx5rT9qjMoPvSawYvwVSRLYLMexWoB0R7NY3roe4Flc0JunJlAb1YpyJhHQmyPXI0KICrKPtQqAslOSWEGS4ZB03Kwx5xar3mEERJkccXyBADnPr4WjTwN0s=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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this will always be one of my favorites...it's on my office door at West Valley College :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dp9_86aTNrl5fJDTH5BUjC_dOt6P8yQJUBkLMAgwC5aunHv6XAE8GkC-7j5bb8hDuEZy8c0OO9VOY-BWcaFjRWrR20jCbnK3JPrpNqxKaavP5jA1lN4xveECorDWHAB8LpilOYhqOSgXRCrMslEYwv=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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The Hubby's first day climbing outdoors - Dec 2011
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/374316_197594556996220_1129917743_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/380425_197594653662877_676075063_n.jpg)
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that's the traverse portion of p1 - Monolith Regular Route!
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JC waving from his 1st onsight roped lead ever...anywhere...12-23-11
Flatiron Regular Route
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dfAW31Ht7HYHVo8plAB00-hqm-It2VYG9DGOjj8Rcj1bCq4FuidGQMV12uxy_EGqmSqfkGG5oY-MKIoNraM-7LbuI5k34M7gGsbrmFpxzJR3lVDNwzanOVq27IIpc44acRLCHVpOwnm6VAVWWT3Lb8=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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First free ascent - Puny Pinnacle...who says there are no good routes left!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fDM0EjJnfP5KeErjHQm8OSV9xpz75X94lXiSE6fcitJh28RCqRGu2h4LwyjmYEh0cD8Xe35rizG0NWUsE7GR1hV5sIouqicWCmV47MZ_yuLR1UjsQ76wSzIgusKTyiZTf2RSlG6NxIjpikYbTspG76=w904-h387-no?authuser=0)
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$10 says mungie already did the fa....maybe via the north face?
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it was done, but by aid. You got the FFA! nice!
lol!
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Say there mungie, where have you been? Pictures to share?
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Nice!
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Who has the pic of Uber's Pigmy mantle?
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7-7-12
JC on the summit of H and L Dome - super fun climb.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cHBgKGI_xLJNdpiVPzrqXvTvWXib93XRNbrPh9GhbUS4AcQ5X3zgpLdrIHOMPE7JorYHYSdUxnUhOP9l5SOFEecT31RyD-ZgJMYqnZPFv_HmeSHJjGT8-f3MxbhuDJRtA73VslKfSgeFPkq1-6vbZp=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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hardest 5.5 in the Monument?
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hardest 5.5 in the Monument?
very interesting and committing crux...right now i've only got 10 other 5.5's to compare it to and none of those have ***...each one is soooo different!
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Its a little hard to look at but I like it.
Mark on Druid
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=63727&g2_serialNumber=2)
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sweet!
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I take all my photos with the Iphone now. Bad quality lenses make good photos with my mind.
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consoled myself with a couple solo runs up Big Bad West after the downer on Lucky 13...
KC led it before each run and then we just let the rope drop through the draws...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cwQ_nQCQz-NcxHX8A6mGRG6nVHVyvTtWMk3NrB7eiHqEmoMNuK56wFNmZuOrfA5-waRqajWf_5hOioLWF2EiD-eUJj9N1E1mjo4-dUOAMNF1B5OFkZhSAcFsPkEDW1ENMdzoW-ceoeLkPr9wApSgnY=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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consoled myself with a couple solo runs up BBW after the downer on Lucky 13...
Solo as in "free solo?"
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Solo as in "free solo?"
yep
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not a good habit to get into.
I blame Mr. Mud. He used to solo all kinds of shit, he told me one day. Mostly since then I thought about Pinns as a viable place to solo, whereas before I did not. Unequivocally. But when I think about it, there's so many 4th class solo summits and easy 5th class routes it kind of lends itself to it. Not that I recommend it, but I understand it, at least at an easy level.
Mostly it's just choss and needs lots of bolts!
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soloing there is much like soloing anywhere else. No matter where you do it, you cannot fall.
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Oh, I disagree with the lot's of bolts statement. I understand but disagree.
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not a good habit to get into.
but I understand it, at least at an easy level.
it's not a habit for me, but after leading that particular climb 5 times - on various occasions - it just seemed like part of a natural progression. it felt good to be free of the rope and gear and just moving on the rock.
i've climbed some other easy routes on lead that may as well have been solos - the first pitch of 1st Sister's Center Route, the Anvil 5.3R no pro, The Easy Route on Osiris 5.4R no pro and some fun 4th class like Tiburcio's X backside and Kermit. i've led some one or two bolters and old routes with Leepers that i treated as solos.
i don't want anyone to think i am reckless or taking unnecessary risk.
for me this climb was smooth, calculated and relaxed.
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i don't want anyone to think i am reckless or taking unnecessary risk.
for me this climb was smooth, calculated and relaxed.
You're not going to fall on a route like that. But the possibility of rock breaking is very real. Ask Belizzi about soloing 5.8 at Pinns, broken rock, and a broken ankle.
Still, we all "solo" to some extent, at least on the more run-out routes.
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appreciate it Brad.
here are some oldies but goodies
old b&w from hiking guide Kentucky's Land of the Arches (Red River Gorge)
View of Haystack Rock from Auxier Ridge
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dBizVGuAKHmzeJpo1HDTFD_8FqXLaVo8oTuRebGEsSlLb0GUtg-gRuDc1ZW-EF9qpxsTuTbBsDEEl1MH_DvAOfuaBElJ9ICxIPGpigF6LBfybJdQ_ADecK_2keMQiec-1C2gP1z6IowPO4bZLVg8oy=w905-h625-no?authuser=0)
best blurry shot of me soloing Haystack 5.3X in hiking boots - camera batteries were fading on this old film shot
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c4tQ2eSZOCBOITzQ1o4yBs1GaNrUdmwLvCagAjcy9nb5OET2EEezQbgrs21Uf9cP_oVgiJZ8t2Uwwrj2MF2UAuIBYaESxCXK4BxLjvvnXvnbn1uLJhHOXARk4bnApvrOfbm1TQUfnikdEjdt8-h6n3=w874-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC taking a break on Courthouse Rock's flaring chimney - 4th class
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ehXpQsA6nRBL08ObXfQGzrFeu5XS0YAfW0YuDR5pG_MDf7HHNizFK5pAxo-liPifOgCA7Xcvlj8dKk0tOqWB1bUNmVrcmk7gNEee5BCuMFU0vzzS1GwHrQee9wBrv0t5uofpYdAPEG9fxZ8tvQbHH7=w439-h625-no?authuser=0)
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old skool boots!
nice
word on the street is that the broke ass is out for SPH this weekend, but you two are still in.
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One thing that has always stuck in my head was the Derek Hersey statement which I think basically said, do not solo stuff because you can lead it. If your going to solo it, solo it because you want to solo it. I think part of what he was saying was getting into a habit of leading stuff enough times that can you get to the point where you are comfortable enough to solo it is a trap. That does not necessarily mean that something cannot be a solo after a lead, just that they should not be tied to each other.
It is philosophical. Lead stuff to lead stuff. Solo stuff to solo stuff. One is not really all that more dangerous than the other. It is the implementation that determines which is more dangerous. I personally have have seen people lead in ways that seemed way more sketchy than some solo's that I have witnessed.
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leading stuff enough times that can you get to the point where you are comfortable enough to solo it is a trap.
That philosphy does make sense to me.
Haystack was always a solo for me.
I can remember other times when we'd be out at the crag and I'd solo something easy(sometimes not even a route) while the rest of the crew was climbing roped. That was before I ever got up the nerve to lead anything and I was just having fun.
I only solo'ed BBW because it has always seemed really easy for the grade.
There are other 5.5's I've led that I wouldn't even think about doing that.
For me it's all about knowing my limitations and working within and sometimes a little beyond those parameters.
I'll get there inch by inch.
here's ta mud in yer eye!
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old skool boots!
nice
word on the street is that the broke ass is out for SPH this weekend, but you two are still in.
funny thing was she went right up this the first time and the next time we went back she was totally spooked.
bummer about broke ass!
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the broke ass is out
:P
:(
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:(
:(
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forgive us mudders...we been doin' the granodiorite thang.
KC heads down the Come to Jesus trail...Clouds Rest summit ridge.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c81-QgGHlSTwbbvuH_5YCowaQSqD9hdZ8jiWtBRQgnjLcb4K1Q90bgcZTni8NHfuW1fPK4pKxxyTLj6F9PxGIan5YFNTYxVk6NE4ky1hSW4T1o_bdL2ZB8qq3FrVRXfJKOJYh4-9IDVZH-ei2lTdNR=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
and the quartz monzonite thang...Alabama Hills
KC high steppin' on Ranger of the North 5.6**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dpefAcaOmAKRLnA5Zj1oWXwsn9tmc18kTErtz9LN0gyPtEjYxtglVMzvGbiULsEI_CUUHUOXoyiOmR2BiPwO7DJ3JSJlOEbVjmYq2d347S0Fhg638KucBL-9V3yUf686bYThtoNT2swV-wPtmWC8ve=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC cranks the crux on Replikator 5.7*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fnu2qVme2aKn4NALXFGz7zKtXpH3PaccIWcMiw8h9yU8wR65WDkLk7s1HpjccRPTsxSXTxYwLe1A3HBQbasRXi-5bvWSw9Vu_RWM4b8tAXNXctDuKZtNoQ20pKM30sIHaf0O1_yPYFMkJ6iYBLkQLt=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC leading Sweete Pete 5.6**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d_dffqnDqDFqpo_Tl7wXTef2qzGlFg2-xmmnxb6oOgIFoVzFIwGK-Gbrtp3iHKZ45jYSM9ldeAm6uZ9Fx16Qqrw_dHpcuKc_-RKV1uT6L1lKBgvXHk5IawngzMlD2eRtLDQzGFTWaoeDPCxzMFiOK0=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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I will confess that Mittens and I have also been sinning on the granite.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/405505_10151007761426267_2048330125_n.jpg[img]
[img]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/304851_10151007763346267_2103711387_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/s720x720/547912_10151007772656267_1179448049_n.jpg)
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That looks ....
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Hey Mud, I saw your name up there. Even you will admit this rock is worth climbing... right?
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I want to say no since it is not Mud but it is beautiful. Is that Positive Vibrations?
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Is that Positive Vibrations?
sure looks like it from the pic. the taco says it is quite possibly the best rock climb in the high sierra. 5.11a...glad i don't compare what i do to what those crack fiends do!
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There were Positive Vibes all the way up that thing.
JC and KC, no reason to compare. Whatever you are climbing... is the best thing to be climbing.
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Had an AMAZING long weekend with Brad.
We climbed three days in a row.
I got thrashed a bit, learned a ton and led my hardest climbs yet on granite. Friday I got my super slow trad on with a 5.6* Pogo Stick - sorry no pics...Saturday I got my arse handed to me with a tricky crux move on a 5.10a***4 Dollar Hammer...and today we ticked off 7 of Munges' routes in just a few hours - 4 of which I led! the 5.7, 5.8 and 5.9*** were my hardest ever leads on granite...WOOHOO!!!
Brad finessing a 5.10a crux move on Coyote Crack - so much fun to watch him climb!(Charlotte agrees!)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fW7UbyUCyjGCzYQezT25JShmTtDt05ObLIpGjqCxmNVGSuNBQ2KnRelkA63R3fUr1fYOiLvhynddazHk_MT6H3OuVoTZZ2sst5SY-0EdrUw8sQ4e4h4i6BwRDGd1TzXea45tT5etr5sfnNGf2NNEaI=w515-h625-no?authuser=0)
Tricia came out with us today and nailed the crux on a 5.7 - way to go!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3diGPenXzHdVkU1Kug8lFg_Y_BtKbLf-fnqFfHgG6WxeP02FrPNQI_dmuuDz_2tgiKuD7oRGG_XWdbnjUzDrb5b8_0qjcqmCbKxlzNel4gSd2zeE7ytVIDh3uK_A-sZkY_UbuvKkVu3TCpoaRxSoiHd=w688-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC leading the sustained portion of Sundog Millionaire 5.9***my hardest lead on granite and hardest overall anywhere!
Those streaks are fresh rock dust from drilling... Brad said he has seen solid 10a leaders fall on this climb.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cPGl9v09kXu2Kq7hPCg3_97RSRNR98pLUroPsFWjSwDoe_gOTl-8oOInZuJpXFvBTlhFKehu5J0qC-7v8lzudO1-3u2Ms5ATmPUVDTJl3g2rkVl-BVbtAdSIzHg0HBwtNEwY6fq7uaTA_UHqnOXDJO=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
My hat is off to the Young's...to Vicki for her warmth and hospitality (she made me this hat)...to Brad for...well...EVERYTHING!...and to Tricia for being the coolest tween I know! YOU GUYS ROCK!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d_XejVBBXq8HGxNj5PdPvO3TQKTftPFaDS_xdEI870Io1XWAsi7x8aVNoiefop1d4kETb6Ko-i9zPJUHUp49DgEY2LS3pssgl8f8IFKyTCQkGbFDDYtAXEN1WhZYX5RwwlKmlqYR5JPGi1cgOxifNQ=w457-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Omg, take it to the sph forum. ;D
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Omg, take it to the sph forum. ;D
dude...you're harshin' my mellow :)
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John, I'm at work and I don't have your email here, but, listen to this turn of events:
Tim (who you and I and Joel saw climbing across the canyon on Saturday) stopped by the house this morning. Offhand, he asked Vicki if we'd heard anything about a missing dog. As Tim was leaving Chipmunk Flat Saturday, a lady approached him and said she'd found a dog and asked him if he knew anything about it.
Unfortunately, since we didn't find the dog yesterday, I threw the message from the dog owners away when I was cleaning out my pack (and our garbage was picked up and taken away this morning). Fortunately, Erica, one of our secretaries here, is a corgi owner and breeder. I gave her what info I remembered and it looks like she'll be able to locate the owners (after all, how many corgi owners can there be in Topaz?).
Tim also threw away the contact info for the lady who apparently has the dog, but his garbage hasn't been taken and he's on his way home to pick it out.
This story may have a good ending after all.
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As Tim was leaving Chipmunk Flat Saturday, a lady approached him and said she'd found a dog and asked him if he knew anything about it.
This story may have a good ending after all.
that's great to know someone found the dog.
sounds like it won't be too much trouble to track her down.
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We found the dog owner and we found the lady who found the dog. Unfortunately the lady who found the dog left it with the rangers at Dardanelles on her way down the hill yesterday. We're trying to get hold of them now.
The mystery continues, but it's looking better...
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The dog owner is now on the phone with the ranger who took the dog home. It was worth it today, taking time out from work to do good by doing well.
Now... back to our regularly scheduled wrongful/out of area posting...
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nicely done!
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nicely done!
Yeah, it's kinda nice to get a good ending. Vicki thought that everyone involved earned big karma points.
Idunno, I thought it was more about dogma in this situation, but what do I know...
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lol
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Another out of area post. Im just trying to climb some more mountains before I return to my true love of pinnacles.
Mt Watkins in a day.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/538745_10151082803406267_110061824_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/46294_10151082425051267_1313939643_n.jpg)
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Another out of area post. Im just trying to climb some more mountains before I return to my true love of pinnacles.
that second picture is frame worthy! AWESOME!
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Love them both, fantastic shots.
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Great shots Adam....sounds like you crushed and glad to hear.
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JC, I saw the rest of your photos of our Chipmunk Flat weekend on Facebook. They reminded me to ask you: "does a bear sh#t in the woods?"
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JC, I saw the rest of your photos of our Chipmunk Flat weekend on Facebook. They reminded me to ask you: "does a bear sh#t in the woods?"
Is the pope Catholic?
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great climbing yesterday. Aaron led Alias Bandit Bench, I onsighted Red Line and then we explored the Grotto.
Aaron steps into the crux zone on ABB
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cIpT0oMxolSOimJgYaAFiU4U0F6dRtkDtJnX9RYzekgXfac-qCy6PMrgygyLR6yVdMRFPmw54mRXrUv0vSM0V3biQxllPzYVniud1kCUgXDvYf4kNmZKG9WuR0VyRLriEt-K8k7PZoA6InmI5v08Fe=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC starts up Red Line
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d3BRIvJYEO426yhcWfEw3veRvvhtnM48jkUENgcDj4X0gqNTKub5pwEuFY7rvUOEhdFZuz8jMyiB5smWNwl-rxEe97WSydBzLRHCU1yHDaB1YuzWKRqr0IjsKi4cUtYbbc6EPJjlOPsBi0OqJDNANh=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
smiles for miles from KC in the Red Line runout
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eGT7lyORi-3Tq5RjlQFSa1mpCwru4rZPA2-imebQ1iU1fUDKQdHoidGJuIrZdavNx8xB_en8nVVzDGE9VjNiDWYIHz5ll9zhPn-AX_dK9Vnr3EgHucfQiRuAcXNKFAoiMo3ikM8995QK-G3HGYBoIh=w561-h625-no?authuser=0)
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wow, it looks like it is (Redline) actually cleaning up.
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JC, I saw the rest of your photos of our Chipmunk Flat weekend on Facebook. They reminded me to ask you: "does a bear sh#t in the woods?"
well...ummm...yeah, i guess...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eHdnoGWIowWQizW1YLEVJhXt9miYEGPBWxrQ2jL3bji3xQk9bBWNMYGRa30LasoNIw5bNE4nUiU1TcVptQX9O0FKXO6QSdnBLXLV2tF8NOHOmDkQDj0-wjkn0CbzHVqVa6WG7QJ4gE5Kt_kJAbJpdS=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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I call BS on that post
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wow, it looks like it is (Redline) actually cleaning up.
KC and Aaron both said they liked Redline much better than Drop Zone. Much better rock quality up high. I didn't trust anything on Redline after leading Drop Zone about a month ago - but nothing i used broke on Redline. fun climb - thanks!
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Gotta keep it goin'...sinned on sandstone at Red Rocks last weekend...back in the High Peaks yesterday..
I started us out on St. Valentine's Day Massacre
Nothin' like a sandbag trad crux right off the ground with no warmup :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c7hgZTN0NmODdCkV82sb5I0gbZjJqZjOSllYDZZjGsI72dQW-WjKACpNEIo8CIXI27y7AGy2anmNvpnp2EDZWe3oSjnprlRCWC8_8qd7GwzQx7cfWLu_j6mCyJMdbJ-ksHxfCk0FwF8Wp6XBorxmhb=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC got her lead on up Bynum's Reg Rte
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c3NpyBTwzChVQ5fxhekABnxdLtIOh5pdFV_RJ-eOq7N9DhlPhsdqNDiPTLbACLm2SEvZWTsFS9k__Bn8pWnyWYWxA_nEbAQXTfox0jR04LjQLjDX-c9rhUyRPpOM38ZjExIyojLGtU3SmU7tgF33Zo=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Gorgeous day yesterday. Maybe the last until the end of the week.
Tell us more about Red Rocks.
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What a great day it was! Thanks to Waldo for being our lead/belay slave. It was so good to get Phil back out there. We're both psyched for the coming weekend now.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/644526_365358433553164_568416427_n.jpg)
Top of Miss Piggy (which, deserves a star for the stunning view alone, btw) ;D
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/404305_365358326886508_1059541472_n.jpg)
Phil said it was his favorite day of climbing so far. Woohoo!
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/155550_365358280219846_1253647519_n.jpg)
Love this route on Bynum.
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Love this route on Bynum.
Rock Steady 5.7R** tuff chick! - you gotta lead that sucker next time :)
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Tell us more about Red Rocks.
Red Rocks was amazing and we can't wait to go back!
I got to lead 3 trad routes and one bolted.
They got record rainfall two days prior so we lucked out.
We met lots of friendly climbers and hikers.
We went to Panty Wall Saturday afternoon - straight from the airport.
Sunday was spent at Cannibal Crag, the Sandstone Quarry parking area and Willow Springs.
We wanted to do one more climb at Willow Springs but forces conspired against us - a confusing description of the route in the guidebook at the first crag coupled with an oookie feeling in KC's gut and water running out of the cracks at the last spot. We still had lots of exciting fun and a very satisfying outing.
JC places the last piece on Cover my Buttress 5.6, Panty Wall - first lead at Red Rocks!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fxvbIiKLgHF8S1hzu3ZtlZHtFnR6FSkwTv2HUUacPtMSSx-GetEItodtEKqPa3llOgZz94CmZzBtSbTKQ5p_lM47ucNXMH6rPQUBFXRD8rL1JxeuBYmb4BAxJWkmawKxP7ujOv5B8oEJS4Pw3iZ6fM=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC leads Silk Panties 5.7, Panty Wall
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f_UVO4MBk_Xx7tH-Zgx4WBltlCYRKtFgyi0ODblmodVL6I2lVXCvWzwCaAeJFnY1COgHzeCEJZvQz-ZopGHsutqade4wgEqIMus9ghDHmC2nVthY1JEi5PbE24usRcHRCogBFA3E5wTUioHaKi0QKQ=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC follows Silk Panties
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fJCANmu6f32t4m5FWontvLbYpV390IbUPJbdD45pH55mbKF_iHpz7BZwl0b9huhcfPZvK3XJ3m-Ih8fqJXOwIII5UjoaykV2VMiMCDu2iHlNyEjySzKvBzqxAMPCugXznrGlcZM6kOZA2tWj5htSyD=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC follows Cannibal Crack 5.4, Cannibal Crag
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cd_HqTdOxcVWH64DRVAJzanSZL-F-LB3U_xgNMuH1eRkxQB_k6qsfd5yryQcAYCSRrzXS8P3Q6qSw9_mnzUCyMwBLmvzGWSmKMiRf9eqlXu0n4FF-6lQXSgikuXjx7Pm0l9NFgJqqN_zVodlddN0tn=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC near the top of Fender Bender 5.6*, just a stone's throw from the Sandstone Quarry parking area
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dZyWSXS_j43-BA6RIKpMiJBMvxHmEF28odhfvd1rGnul1eOBVeVCJzXhN0usYBSne3hNIIita8LTB8ctbXF6qc83jyS3l4MDvL9KsuP0TWXYOL84gYDYnIKxlLR8tEymcxPsbU9dxOacacCRdzHBiK=w560-h625-no?authuser=0)
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RR where people protect early and often.
Fun place.
Still have a 10d there to reconcile with.
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RR is okay. Still not the Pinnalces.
Be careful or else you'll end up like this guy....scared!
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/Red-Rocks-08/DSCF2320/266035413_9AKoV-S.jpg)
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Still have a 10d there to reconcile with.
I have two 5.10d routes there to get clean. Which one is on your list?
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Can't recall the name. Up and climber's right of Black Corridor/Gallery.
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Can't recall the name. Up and climber's right of Black Corridor/Gallery.
Gasp! That's a sport climber's area!! :o :o
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RR is okay. Still not the Pinnalces.
Be careful or else you'll end up like this guy....scared!
You're absolutely right - Nothin' is the Pinns :)
And don't worry, i looked just like that guy - plenty scared...that soft rock didn't seem sturdy enough for the gear not to rip out, so i sewed it up the best i could and climbed like my life depended on it - come to think of it that's how i always climb :)
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Gasp! That's a sport climber's area!! :o :o
OH THE HORROR!!!
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OH THE HORROR!!!
Yes, "the horror." Actually, let's face it, sport climbing can be fun.
Both of my projects there are shady, mutipitch routes where the crux pitch is a right facing, 5.10d corner/crack (Nightcrawler and Wholesome Fullback, both very good climbs).
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Sounds good, but definitely spring time objectives
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Rocktober continues in The Valley... I just cant get enough.
Crest Jewel Direct
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/282223_10151119567476267_1176091033_n.jpg)
The Incomparable Valley
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/532865_10151119568356267_1736367405_n.jpg)
Half Dome
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548683_10151119568721267_211033274_n.jpg)
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Rocktober continues in The Valley... I just cant get enough.
Adam, tell me those shots were taken (at least) a few days ago? It's raining hard here and snow line is only 1,000 feet higher than the house!
Nice colors, by the way.
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Wholesome Fullback
Good lord Brad, will you even fit in the chimmney on wholsom fullback? Go up and over. My bro squeezed through to the belay.
There's a Clevenger route that you rap over, that looks cool. Except for the lack of bolts.
Keep the pictures coming...
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Brad, we climbed RA > Crest Jewel Direct on Saturday. But this time I didn't get he 10d clean. I guess I need Joe to lead that for me in order to send.
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OOOOOOOh, I love love loved Wholesome Fullback. After climbing the first pitch of Ixtlan, we got over to WF after dark and I led the first pitch in the dark then rapped back down to finish the climb the next morning. The hands corner on the opposite side of the pillar you rap off of is damn good too.
edit: Just went and looked it up, the pitch I was talking about was the 10d pitch of Our Father. Super fun but pumpy.
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OOOOOOOh, I love love loved Wholesome Fullback. After climbing the first pitch of Ixtlan, we got over to WF after dark and I led the first pitch in the dark then rapped back down to finish the climb the next morning. The hands corner on the opposite side of the pillar you rap off of is damn good too.
edit: Just went and looked it up, the pitch I was talking about was the 10d pitch of Our Father. Super fun but pumpy.
And, whoops, I was talking about the 5.10d pitch of Our Father too (the danger of going by memory). I onsighted Wholesome Fullback. It was the 10d pitch of Our Father that I fell off of.
I'll be back.
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Yup, I fell off Our Father too. Need to move faster next time and trust the bomber pro before the pump sets in.
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Whatcha missed at the impromptu Autumn Rockpile:
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/320459_367888029966871_577548000_n.jpg)
JC slipping up the Unmentionable
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/526061_367888689966805_858310821_n.jpg)
KC topping out on Pipsqueak Regular Route
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3040_367888906633450_664967534_n.jpg)
Crux and JC racing to the top of Pipsqueak
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/9260_367889059966768_2056531024_n.jpg)
One half belaying their better half
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/522915_367888786633462_1559591552_n.jpg)
Looking for my lead-head
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/523591_367888676633473_2023497991_n.jpg)
Aaron rockin Rightfoot
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JC slipping up the Unmentionable
Crux and JC racing to the top of Pipsqueak
One half belaying their better half
Looking for my lead-head
Aaron rockin Rightfoot
Nice shot!
How come Aaron is rockin' and i'm slippin'? :(
on the subject of that race...Wait a minute - that was 5.4 against 5.7 and you never said Go!
on the better half...isn't that the leader? :)
i think you found your lead head! Like Like Like Like!!!!
nice shot of Aaron on Rightfoot! - we didn't get any of that one cuz KC was leadin' and i was belayin' her + i couldn't watch him and then onsight it :)
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Alright,, although I admit it's been very slooow in coming, your weekend trip got my attitude much closer to Pinnacles season. Just two more weekends of wrapping up projects up here (so they'll make it into the book)...
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i've got a TR coming to compliment crux's - just haven't found the time yet - i know...make the time!
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I think it is finally time to go to the Pinns, but I had one more thing on my mind that I had to get out of the way before I could do so.
The Stovelegs!
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/314145_10151126925356267_1316742222_n.jpg)
The Meadow from Dolt
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/406785_10151127060576267_1651378837_n.jpg)
El Cap Tower Beer Time.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/523000_10151127220486267_783407246_n.jpg)
Full Moon
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/22425_10151127316086267_1153910645_n.jpg)
The Edge of The Great Roof by Tom Evans
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/398228_441580885877011_1234004998_n.jpg)
Possibly the best climb I have ever done... That is until Mittens and I bolt our new route.
I'm looking for partners this Saturday and anyday during next week. I'm stoked to get in on at The Pinns!!!!
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Partner for pins on Saturday?!
Yer killin me. I'd be down, but I'm still going to be on SPH low country granite this weekend.
Forecast is still holding thru the weekend.
Nice on the Nose. Every once in a while I get the urge to do the Nose, but then the thought of multiple climbers above and below me starts to bug me.
worth it?
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We had the other climbers all over the place stress too, but once we got past the first four pitches everyone else bailed and we had the whole route to ourselves.
There are so many amazing pitches lined up one after another that it would still be worth it even with other people around. Its a legendary route for many reasons. BUt logistacally you have got to have your wall techniques together. If I hadn't done El Cap four times already I might not have made it.
Highlights of the route:
Seeing big hands Paul free The Stovelegs!
Watching Will Stanhope take repeated 3o footers on Devils Dyno on The Prophet.
Freeing The Boot
Coming sooooo close to crashing on The King Swing. It's way scarier than in all the videos.
Great Roof
Freeing Pancake Flake.
Eating Dinner each night
Getting to the top.
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It's the freeing part that would slow me down. Once I'm in stirrups, I like to stay in the stirrups.
cool, thx
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Getting to the top is good. So is dinner.
What is "crashing" the King Swing?
I'll be very interested to hear your report on The Salathe (which I suspect you'll get to soon). I loved climbing "the history" of The Nose, and many of the pitches were great. It is a fantastic route. But there was something (something non-specific, just the overall feeling) about The Salathe that I liked better.
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Brad, On the Swing I lowered down twenty feet below the boot ran hard left than back right, and than really hard left. I missed it by inches. At that point I was along for the ride back to the right and if you've been there the wall is not flat and you have to run really really fast. I miss timed my leaps and almost crashed into the normally insignificant ridge that you aid up on the way to the boot. Luckily I didn't tumble. Ran even harder to the left and stuck it.... but its not over until you stick the real crack around the corner. Climbed the 10c to the belay leaving no gear. Kinda scary too. Any jitters I had from all the whisky we drank were instantly purged during the swing.
I did Salathe a few years ago and loved that too. But overall I thought there were less classic pitches and it was quite a bit burlier. It seemed more tie consuming, or maybe I'm just more confident now on #5 compared to #2. Salathe was a more natural line and you have to deal with less traversing and moving you stuff around in weird ways. I like both. But the history of the nose and all the legendary pitches put it on top at this point. The Nose has so many great free pitches, which up it for me. I'd rather go back and do The Nose many times. I might even go back and do a NIAD next week with it fresh on my mind.
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For you non-facebookers... here is the Salathe report.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.434801696266.213619.597616266&type=1&l=ca9a71b17b (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.434801696266.213619.597616266&type=1&l=ca9a71b17b)
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Your description of doing the King Swing could be my own description. It took me three all out efforts too. But, after I "latched on," I aided the crack (also leaving no pro to make my second's job more reasonable).
I didn't know you'd already done The Salathe. What are the other three you've done?
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South Seas, New Dawn, Tangerine Trip
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I had no idea you'd done South Seas - I've always thought of you as a free climber (pretty much exclusively). It's a good route. A long route.
I've always thought that the Rubber Band Man pendulum on that was the most unique pendulum I've ever done. In fact we had no idea why it was called that until we figured out the only possible way to do it. Then we put two and two together...
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Once or twice a year I bust out the aiders and head to The Captain. The Climbing Rangers are trying to rally me to do The Muir next week, but I'm not so sure I'm ready to go back yet.
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okay, i don't think i can post a measly Pinns trip report after all that. you guys may as well be on Mars!
these were however, my fave shots of the weekend...
JC with the 3 star salute after leading the Unmentionable
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d6VwzchkLOecPTM34HYnNik1RySRlJNUnvTKrRCnnOvgIWVISUikqUWHRkFY0fMiX3OeDuaXGhjBLeH1ubH0zM0tQ2kRQQedXYoRVtSLKzcQR5r_KURseqT3DeQZ7TzqBHfzgFZQY7D0m1U7DmX9WN=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Aaron leading Marauder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e1wWySxc8D9orXXUkRqPOgWCeXIg9WfKdogbPoF5dxbuGnpV86jODg4hEE4yCgn7XqzGTrh12U0C4FgjiVo88A4nxxKnD0LsFAOYG5IMcr7EiN1AG52Dgo4tl6EeuzMb6A2jB9lzSZjqVZJiSDhV69=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC following Marauder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cgfhTphCQlgF5ZO0bwP2F2AZ7wa3Okxd1No_4dPJRwREJxQpRXUbpTB4RAI_EEBkNSMvsVjgaNS03YcQZJ0ZO7WGfUbKDURyNetboNEfo9o680BU3RCzv55PZm3QANLWAd5jw2kTvVRuxH-7ZSpw96=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC entering some serious runout on Marmot with a Hand Grenade
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fPwv0M5oqsn82VytkB3itNeL8OmzLkPJz9ZF5SXGDy7XBsB0ypD51XCbXwuXHDBQHm18O3Ne99MC0TE2P8KMj8aSWCFgAJ2BeEje9676OFuiG4DC9tFmtLf5SHW_nJ1_gfnt0ztwVk959mociV1zxs=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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you guys may as well be on Mars!
Not the first time that's been said about me, how about you Adam?
John, you're a great climber: you're safe and aware and you have fun. Others around you have fun too. Who cares what others are climbing?
One problem with your photos, though. They're invalid without captions.
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Can I just say, nice work Adam. Great stuff indeed.
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Not the first time that's been said about me, how about you Adam?
John, you're a great climber: you're safe and aware and you have fun. Others around you have fun too. Who cares what others are climbing?
One problem with your photos, though. They're invalid without captions.
oh Brad, it's "invalid without pics" and no need for grammatically correct sentences. ;)
the captions are just icing on the cake.
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the captions are just icing on the cake.
The only reason for cake in the first place is to hold the icing so it can be eaten.
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why am I so hungry all of a sudden?
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why am I so hungry all of a sudden?
Too bad you're not here, LVS got a fresh-baked Cover's Dutch Apple pie. It'll be good for breakfast too. We'll miss you.
Now, back to photos and such.
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Not the first time that's been said about me, how about you Adam?
John, you're a great climber: you're safe and aware and you have fun. Others around you have fun too. Who cares what others are climbing?
One problem with your photos, though. They're invalid without captions.
Yes this has been said about me before, but I've always taken the approach of, it's not how hard you are climbing but how much fun you are having. I just try to make my enthusiasm infectious to others without rubbing it in their faces that I'm full of myself. And I always try to climb at the level of everyone in the group, so we all have fun. Than when everyone is worked and satiated, I crush the Gnar.
Over the years I've had to push myself to higher levels to get to the same level of enjoyment. Enjoy the time that you are not on Mars.
Climbing is personal, so keep it that way.
As for captions, I hate it when I don't know what someone is climbing in an image. Clever image labeling is just as important as the image.
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gee...i thought you guys knew all the climbs in Pinns :)
okay...i added some captions...
as far as being on Mars, i get it - but it's still like picking up the guitar after watching Al Di Meloa play :)
we mere mortals will carry on and as always, continue to have fun!!!
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John, you're a great climber: you're safe and aware and you have fun. Others around you have fun too. Who cares what others are climbing?
thanks for the props Brad.
i guess the Mars comment was just my way of saying i can't imagine climbing at that level - based on where i am right now with my climbing "evolution"
i'm just happy to be out there "gettin' after it"!
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Than when everyone is worked and satiated, I crush the Gnar.
That being the case, Adam, here's a route with just the right name for you. It's up here in The Lost World. Tom Addison put this route up; if I hadn't seen the bolts I would never have believed it was even climbable, much less at 5.12b:
A. Welcome to Gnarnia 5.12b *** (Not shown on topo.) This route starts 15 feet left of Z-Clip Don’t Whip. Follow a left-facing corner past three bolts to a left-facing, very thin flake. Three more bolts protect climbing up the flake. From this point continue (past five more bolts) up the incredible, huge, white roof to a short length of crack which leads to a two bolt anchor.
Tom had another great name for a steep sport route he established nearby. He did the FA with a friend who is a doctor of pathology. It's called "Pathological Flier."
John, I had no idea that those photos were from Marmot Rocks. That's a perfect place to climb in that type of weather. Isn't that your first time there?
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John, I had no idea that those photos were from Marmot Rocks. That's a perfect place to climb in that type of weather. Isn't that your first time there?
Yes it was our first time there and the climbing was great.
I promised a TR so here it is:
We spent Day one of the unofficial Autumn Rockpile on the Unmentionable, Pipsqueak and the Carousel.
I led the Un and then everyone else followed. Aaron trailed a rope so he could TR the 5.9 (Erectile Dysfunction). KC and I didn't watch or climb it since I would rather go back and onsight it another day. I was a bit disappointed when I looked up the FA later and saw that it was bolted on rappel - oh well...nefarious methods didn't keep us from enjoying Costanoan, so I guess you just have to let some stuff slide. One of my West Valley students (Chris) came out to join us for the day and he did his first lead on the Un! Scared the crap out of me and Aaron when he slipped a little just before making the last move up to clip the bolt. I was belaying and we were both watching and coaching him closely. Aaron and I talked later and decided maybe that wasn't the wisest choice for a first lead!
It was Pipsqueak next, where Aaron onsighted Rightfoot while KC led the Reg Rte with me belaying her. She and I'd been up there once before, but it was a long time ago, so it was still like an onsight lead for her. I didn't watch Aaron and he promised not to tell me anything - so I could get that one onsight too. Almost everyone (including Chris!) led the Reg Rte. It was good to see Crux get her lead back on after such a long hiatus. I onsighted what I thought was Little Pipper and then onsighted Rightfoot. You should have seen me stem out before that first bolt - whew!
We hiked down and did a couple of the toprope problems on the Carousel after Pipsqueak. I had a pointy stick/branch do a venipuncture on my left arm on the way down from Pipsqueak - bizarre! It looked like a bad stick at the phlebotomist.
I managed to clean the 5.10b on the Carousel. KC couldn't quite figure out how to get to the first pocket - she gave it a helluva try though!
We all had a fun night camping even though no fires were allowed.
I tried to get them to go for a moonlight hike to the West side via Old Pinnacles but couldn't get everyone onboard.
Sunday - Crux and hubby split and Aaron, KC and I headed for Marmot. Aaron spearheaded the approach and did a great job finding the way when it got a bit tricky after turning left above the slabs. We got up there and explored around a bit before starting up Marauder 5.7*. I led, then Aaron led and KC followed. We did Brad's Dead on the Shoulder 5.8* route next - again - I led, then Aaron led and KC followed. Those were both really cool routes. We prowled around a bit - Aaron wanted to scope out the Regular Route and we also found Furry Marmot Substitute while we were back there. We ended up coming back out and I led Marmot with a Hand Grenade 5.8*. I'd had my eye on it in the book but was a bit intimidated when we first got up there - especially since the bolts were so widely spaced. I just about popped off the crux move and then ran it out to bolt two, where I stepped up to clip and then stepped back down for a short rest. I think I veered right a bit sooner than what the topo shows - after a big rectangular block. I wanted to try the last part of the water chute, but it was a bit overhanging, devoid of the nice chunky hand holds found elsewhere on the line and I was already uncomfortably high above bolt 2. I ran it out to the ledgy area below the final headwall and started looking for bolt 3. I looked everywhere and could not find it! I remembered the topo showing the path go left to the bolt and around the end to go up. I slung a small knob below what I perceived as a more sensible and direct line to the top but I was determined to look for that bolt some more and wanted to honor the original FA path. I traversed left over thick moss with crusty scaly rock above. No bolt. As I called down for slack so I could move around and gain the summit, I remember thinking - "No one would put a bolt here - the climbing is too easy!" I had another surprise at the summit. We could see the anchor slings from the other climbs, but we didn't know one of the bolts was a joke! It looks like 3/16" hardware store junk with an aluminum spoon hanger! Aaron and KC both took the "Direct Finish" - which I'd like to submit as an alternate finish to the route. I'd also like to add a bolt somewhere in the vicinity of the small sling knob. Aaron and KC both looked for the 3rd bolt on the way up - to no avail. We had an awesome day and a great weekend!!!
here's my modified topo and Direct Finish proposal
i put a ? by the 60 feet since we were just shy of the middle mark when i summited - i didn't measure how much rope was left when we finished the rappel - oops...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3euw2odAjrwo0YqX-Y5Dv8-XEY9DwSw0y2RT7ch3nW38V0A3O5XlbKLaV1zsvvaoS6acpGwYPr4-RLBC1N7quKXhtFuzGAqwx1K0MPfFcfRBEWcCHCDOajSL0NuJj77q0TSFQ9BRdcVj9w0HXKtxEAX=w459-h543-no?authuser=0)
and the guidebook photo
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3djfljSh_VvR9Tn0GvQeIMPSbV_lh2ip88yqd3vKSx7BlLRMHi-scfcwo87iFb9jJvki8tEZ5XTy-VyacXxupLGDa97vHH2DOsmzebw4f5W1SH4h0KUsB2dF2ztBTAXYNgURRvvcECcDd2IqtqexrnM=w880-h537-no?authuser=0)
and the hideous anchor bolt and hanger (the other bolt looks okay except not stainless) and I guess this should go on the rebolting thread!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4389/36933526550_c99c4c9680_z.jpg)
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I met Bruce today and explored his collection.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/604122_10151144183591267_228946148_n.jpg)
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jeepers
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I knew he had a few, but jinkies
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This was just some of box 1 of 3.
Steve Roper bolts from Balconies Original route on the bottom left.
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Say, some of those don't look so bad... ::)
PS Marmot has the best 10C in the Monument...Heretic.
To think JMC drilled the crucx bolt from stance, a finger or two on the hold and a few on the drill holder...
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8181231050_2b6e159592_c.jpg)
I really liked how this one came out despite a scratched camera lens.
I finally figured out how to use Lightroom for watermarking!
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I really liked how this one came out despite a scratched camera lens.
great shot!
you would have liked the blackbirds dive bombing/dog fighting each other while we were climbing Egg Shell - crazy!
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8181231050_2b6e159592_c.jpg)
I really liked how this one came out despite a scratched camera lens.
I finally figured out how to use Lightroom for watermarking!
Fantastic pic. One of the best shots of a Stellar Jay that I have seen.
But that is not a water mark. That is text in a photo :)
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fair enough
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Yeah, and it's one word, not "Munge Climber." Who's the impostor?
(Damn nice photo, whoever you are.)
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thx
Just a touch of saturation to bring out the blue, which had the nice effect of warming up the log the bird is on.
I snapped 6 shots, but only 3 of them had the bird in focus. They move their heads a bit.
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Say, some of those don't look so bad... ::)
PS Marmot has the best 10C in the Monument...Heretic.
To think JMC drilled the crucx bolt from stance, a finger or two on the hold and a few on the drill holder...
The "best"- its good but............another thread for another day.
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It is not a photo and its not of The Pinns or anywhere "real" , but I thought I would share.
This happened the other night, in a quick and spontaneous manner. I just started doing painting this year with no instruction at all. I'm having tons of fun. This is my first larger attempt at something.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/verve1-1.jpg)
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Feels like Cascades or Olympics
nice!
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While I'm at it, here is another one from my sketchbook. This was done on January 1st this year. Anyone know the location?
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/verve2-1.jpg)
Or this one?
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/Dana.jpg)
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Nice work adam....quite a talent. Is the second on Dana?
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Mt Dana as seen during a February 2012 solo ski tour to Tuolumne.
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Tuolumne on both counts. Pothole dome area on one. Closer to Mt Dana area on the other.
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The first one in the second post looks like the eastern Sierra just north of Mammoth. In fact I think I can see the peak called Two Teats in it.
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The first one is looking north from Pothole Dome towards Whorl Mountain, a mountain I have a huge fascination with. Spiller Canyon is one of my favorite spots in Yosemite, therefore the drawing is charged with extra energy. It was a special moment watching the sunrise in 15 degree weather on 1.1.2012 in Tuolumne.
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very cool atomizer. are you selling any of them?
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8201/8180895541_5c5b6d735a_c.jpg)
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a
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8197/8197418961_fee55e0df4_c.jpg)
or
b
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8205/8198517552_cf51d14d65_c.jpg)
?
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sorry Munge I don't see much of a difference - a might be a little sharper.
Photobucket finally finished their upgrade and it's workling again.
Here is KC leading Dos Equis last weekend - AWESOME!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fcxYx8cRLEtPCtyY8fCLrLX15L4QxXGBRtlaAHYbekoIUSEeQbPGpxrgR5IBsFW7_R_OV_jjKAT_7qVHAjc4onOj6WMmWWSIoNCyvcx_JRBgjgLiNLZj-sh5jcU2GtVhVsltiUTSv6cj7INdP4StO2=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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the pic of kc came out nice.
a
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the pic of kc came out nice.
thanks! she was fired up about the lead too !!
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Haven and I are in Zion taking a day to rest day and here are some high lights so far. This place is rad and potentially as chossy as The Pinns, but in a different special chossy way. Hopefully these images aren't too much for you folks. Hope the the T-Day has treated all of you well. :D
The sign of desert freedom
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/395145_10151155006736267_525565958_n.jpg)
Angels Landing View
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/15178_10151156337891267_1278495846_n.jpg)
Fall Colors
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/61405_10151159615271267_1134519421_n.jpg)
The Big Bend
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/182017_10151159659166267_1553490446_n.jpg)
Haven starting up The Headache
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/546933_10151163439031267_368827213_n.jpg)
Topping out The Headache
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/486227_10151163418531267_1845656405_n.jpg)
Ancient Sand Dunes
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/481692_10151163419006267_679450927_n.jpg)
Bighorn Sheep
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/598477_10151163427071267_850364820_n.jpg)
Apple Pancakes
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/306711_10151160823236267_234321787_n.jpg)
The link to Haven's blog
http://wavehaven.wordpress.com/2012/11/23/zion/ (http://wavehaven.wordpress.com/2012/11/23/zion/)
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Adam, when you next check in, tell Haven that a friend of mine from Modesto saw her article and mailed it to me. I'd assumed it was a very small distribution magazine local to the central coast. Apparently it's circulation is bigger than that.
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Hopefully these images aren't too much for you folks.
Never!
Nice-
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Those pics are amazing Adam and the climb looks really fun too!
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KC feeling strung out on the slabby goodness of The Lump 5.8*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e3mxKCzuRDpslTtFZbDw58KbZqjv0NI46nudttnigUNzidsmKTZZBBMeex2QXAWprvpczsypmuTrYjD11y_vBD0FGcwgRYzhxPTwjAFOxeYSomI3grVa9qxByCcLrDLbyh8MjB__YIRwNXC2oaIczI=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Few to add:
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/HighPeaks112612/i-sqhxzkQ/0/L/DSC02175-L.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/HighPeaks112612/i-6Txjt97/0/L/DSC02181-L.jpg)
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The Lump is harder than it looks, especially when wet!
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Few to add:
Captions please Factor :)
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The Lump is harder than it looks, especially when wet!
We both thought it was very challenging - can't imagine it wet!
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More non-pinnacles subject matter.
Yesterday we climbed Monkeyfinger, the Astroman of Zion. But you get to rap instead of doing the NDG.
View from the canyon
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-2.jpg)
Pitch 2 The Pillar of Faith
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-5.jpg)
The Enduro Pitch
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-8.jpg)
The View
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-9.jpg)
OW Pitch
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null.jpg)
Haven needs new tape gloves after this one
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-1.jpg)
Sunset
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-3.jpg)
Now we are off to Granite Mountain and Cochise Stronghold.
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Adam- looks epic. You Sir are my hero.
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Nice
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Now we are off to Granite Mountain and Cochise Stronghold.
tell Haven great writing on the blog. you guys are amazing! can't wait to see the next batch.
looks like i may have to live vicariously since this weekend is predicted to be soup!
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Here is the write up for Monkeyfinger.
http://wavehaven.wordpress.com/2012/11/26/monkeyfinger/ (http://wavehaven.wordpress.com/2012/11/26/monkeyfinger/)
Stopped through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, thank you Bill Clinton.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-12.jpg)
We attempted to find the famous "Wave" rock formation, but found other cool rocks instead.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-13.jpg)
Naturally Arching
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-11.jpg)
Now we are visiting a friend at The Big Ditch, washing our clothes and showering off the accumulated filth of red sand and sweat.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-10.jpg)
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Naturally Arching
Now we are visiting a friend at The Big Ditch, washing our clothes and showering off the accumulated filth of red sand and sweat.
Too funny on the arch above the baby arch - does she get in that position unassisted? I'd need a crane!
I know how good a shower feels after a day or two of climbing so yours must have been heavenly!
Patiently awaiting the next batch :)
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Adam, is that a photo of the Grand Canyon, or a painting?
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Here's a photo from the 1970s. It was sent to me by a well known Pinns climber (I'm posting it with his permission). Of the three climbers in the photo, I know only the one on the right.
It looks like the West Side campground to me (where we park now was a campground then).
Who is it (and who's the coed in the background)?
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8248987496_ff5f5e3826_b.jpg)
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Definitely tell it's West Side (see the rock formation behind the climbers).
Parking lot. Though it appears to be base material (aka dirt).
Don't know the climbers, but I sure like their boots. Raichles?
Great pic!
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And the knickers on the one on the right.
I'm disappointed in you though, I thought you'd guess who it is right away.
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dig the tube socks.
One of the McCons?
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One of the McCons?
Nope. but most of us on here have climbed with him.
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Bob?
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The guy in the middle reminds me of one of my old geology profs and the dude on the left is Errol Flynn!
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It isn't Errol. Here's part of the email it came with (and it should give it away):
"It was taken early in the summer of 1978, I believe. Pictured are Mike Russell, Bill (Bad Bolts) Hunt and myself. I'm pretty sure the knicks were put out by REI at that time."
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It isn't Errol.
You're harshin' my mellow bro'!
This is what I was doin' with rope in Ohio during the early 70's
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fo3VXFyKNAI1_JuxPHmiY70dc8E9BX5UV4jkos3pX170bZB2LaYta692iCfcxxn5XoGSCBB5tOvSo21uaTSbjSLUq5SJaMY2aMLktEaZ9MnOEoTd_NY8rNRKJl1Skjys2Kd2nJ0l6d6akwPSjAHNF2=w659-h422-no?authuser=0)
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yeah, Bad mamma jamma Bob?
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The guy on the right is me. Aside from the knicks, Brad was kind not to mention the "Go Climb a Rock" tee shirt from YSM. Tacky.
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The guy on the right is me.
Wow! Jon looks just like you did!
No way I would have recognized you though.
Great pic-
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No way I would have recognized you though.
Yeah, I probably wouldn't have recognized Bob either if he had not told me it was him: I don't think I've ever seen him in other than jeans and that blue button-up shirt with tiny white stripes.
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J.C. have you got any other shots like that with long, bushy hair?
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So who is the co-ed?
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So who is the co-ed?
Yeah, and where in hell did she get a pair of my short-shorts?
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multi colored striped socks FTW!
though, in my yoot, all stripes had to be the same color. blue, green, red, didn't matter, as long as they were the same color.
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The co-ed is somebody's grandmother now. Hey stripes on the socks used to help me figure out which sock went with which sock.
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J.C. have you got any other shots like that with long, bushy hair?
These should be good for a chuckle or two :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dbDFQDyf7LN9OdzOTInGOLWx4MdLnMoNd6ddvYCCqTt6XVQYfuphpUmzBUo8u-QqkvpVJibA8NidgQC29Y5lk9R1JfmxJfMwhd7LRxzVupTyPg6irkqJS-6VJRQyxgLSVvqSV5NHpQXRTxDptATzJ6=w641-h498-no?authuser=0)
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These should be good for a chuckle or two :)
And a few "holy wows!"
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Sounds like it has been pretty grim in the Mud n Crud World
Here is some legitimate climbing content.
Baking in the sun on top of The Whale after climbing Dem Bones
(http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/29614_10151178084171267_136516008_n.jpg?dl=1)
Painting in The Stronghold. What's My Line Dome on the left and Rockefellow Group on the right.
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/598571_10151176884006267_1015043236_n.jpg?dl=1)
Climbing the stout and wide Days of Future Past on End Pinnacle.
(http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/68440_4585746134286_114893751_n.jpg?dl=1)
We climbed Abracadaver yesterday, maybe one of the best 11's I've ever done. The 10+ ow was pretty tough, but the 11a lieback made it all worth it. We are headed back to SC now to pick off the good weather at The Pinns. And as usual, I'm starting to feel solid and weightless right when the trip ends. See you all soon.
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nice stuff, should be a good crew this weekend.
Let me know if you want to lead Shake and Bake on Sunday. I'd follow that light and solid guy!
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nice stuff, should be a good crew this weekend.
We've got five couples meeting tonight at the Inn at the Pinnacles for our annual weekend. And Dawsons are coming down on Sunday (we've got an FA to finish). So, yeah, lots of good people. I'll bet lots of us run into lots of us in the parking lot (although our crew will be getting late starts).
Rob, were you addressing the Shake and Bake comment to Adam or to someone else? Skelton really, really wants to get on Shake and Bake this trip, and he wants to lead every pitch. If per chance you did it with him, it might be the first time you've done a muti-pitch route with a combined team age of over 100 years :D :D
You might be unable to climb though as I'll be handing you an ungodly weight of paper and you may strain your back.
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Meeting at 9:00- Heading to High Peaks.
Hope to see some of you. If not, have a great weekend!
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You might be unable to climb though as I'll be handing you an ungodly weight of paper and you may strain your back.
LOL- hope to see some of you on Sat!
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I think ill be heading down with Jon Stein on Sunday. I need Saturday to decompress from this road trip. Still on the five right now. I'm thinking about climbing Electric Blue. Has anyone done this one? But we could be into shake n too. Hopefully we'll run into some of you. Rebolting project will continue next week. Any volunteers?
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We've got five couples meeting tonight at the Inn at the Pinnacles for our annual weekend. And Dawsons are coming down on Sunday (we've got an FA to finish). So, yeah, lots of good people. I'll bet lots of us run into lots of us in the parking lot (although our crew will be getting late starts).
Rob, were you addressing the Shake and Bake comment to Adam or to someone else? Skelton really, really wants to get on Shake and Bake this trip, and he wants to lead every pitch. If per chance you did it with him, it might be the first time you've done a muti-pitch route with a combined team age of over 100 years :D :D
You might be unable to climb though as I'll be handing you an ungodly weight of paper and you may strain your back.
Originally to Atom, but more than willing to catch a ride with Ron. Been a while since I've seen Ron. Saturday mostly rolling with Uber and Squiddo to get some movement going. Maybe some proj too.
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@Atomizer, Electric Blue is good. Bolts are spaced a bit but there are bolts where you need them.
@Brad, Tell Ron I said high.
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Shake and Bake is definitely wet. The other Balconies routes look dry.
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That from our 'on the spot' reporter, back to you in the studio...
;D
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(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/s480x480/16175_386916581397261_782902249_n.jpg)
This image visible?
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I see it. Looks like Doug Robinson.
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Waldo in action
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Hey, I look better than Doug Robinson.
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Bob, it wasn't until you'd left that I realized the difference. You're clean-shaven!!
Hope the sore spots go away quickly.
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Waldo I haven't met you so I can't comment, but there must be a shared look as I made the comment out of all seriousness.
It was a nice day yesterday, still moist in the shade. Jon and I had a great time on The Powers That Be and Electric Blue. Electric Blue is 3-Stars in my book. A lot of action on the Balconies yesterday. We saw Alan, Tanya, & Jim on Conduit. A conga line on Lava Falls on with our warmup on Pergrine, five routes were done, which is the most climbs I've ever seen done on The Balconies in one day.
The Balconies
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null-20.jpg)
I'm almost finished with my Stronghold Painting, but the sky hasn't come to me yet. The size is 18"x10" Heads up the image doesn't quite do it justice.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/Stronghold2.jpg)
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So that was you on Pergrine? And later on Powers?
I have some pictures of everyone on the Balconies...
I was hiking w the kid..he did 3miles...
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I was hiking w the kid..he did 3miles...
Proud of you, and of him. Keep it up.
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Peregrine>Powers that Be>Electric Blue.
They increased in quality as we went. And as the book states the 2nd of Powers That Be was especially good despite the lichen in our eyes, shirts, and shoes.
Post em up F4
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How many pitches did you do on Peregrine? I thought that 2nd pitch was kinda sketch to lead (loose and bad bolts). I never managed to get it clean, managed do get all the moves but could not link it.
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Just did the first of Peregrine, at Joe's recommendation as a good warmup, because there is nothing else to warmup on. It did the trick and got me back in the Pinnacles headspace. Definitely a no-star pitch.
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Just did the first of Peregrine, at Joe's recommendation as a good warmup, because there is nothing else to warmup on. It did the trick and got me back in the Pinnacles headspace. Definitely a no-star pitch.
NO, say it aint so! Go Go said it was good, or good enough?
All kidding I was hoping to lead that one. Electric looks cool.
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He said, " Good enough", but then he said something along the lines of, may have been one where I remembered wrong because I went back remembering it being good and then it was different then I remembered. Latter in the day as he told me about Cuidado he said,"rarely do I remember anything about routes, but stay left at the crux for better rock." Classic Joe. So Peregrine was just a warmup. I thought it was spicy to the second bolt.
edit:
Did I say Electric Blue is one of the best routes at Pinnacles! But don't lead it if Shake and Bake is wet, you might end up doing the 30 ft runout to the anchors on a water streak that was hidden from below.
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He said, " Good enough", but then he said something along the lines of, may have been one where I remembered wrong because I went back remembering it being good and then it was different then I remembered. Latter in the day as he told me about Cuidado he said,"rarely do I remember anything about routes, but stay left at the crux for better rock." Classic Joe. So Peregrine was just a warmup. I thought it was spicy to the second bolt.
good stuff Adam- proud
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lichen in our eyes, shirts, and shoes
proof of good times
Squiddo, on the first pitch, Mud had said it was pretty good.
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Never trust what I say, if I'm warming up on it.... I'm always scared shitless on my pinnacles warmups, even if its on the monolith.
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Never trust what I say, if I'm warming up on it.... I'm always scared shitless on my pinnacles warmups, even if its on the monolith.
HA, thanks for being mortal. I'm always just scared shitless.
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Just wanted to share a few from the weekend
Saturday KC led the Sponge Regular Route 5.0**
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fA_EyHm-TAMPmLwkWygGf5uEf-V2lArrU4UPkn2kHR95XQrWwQEHjvEpK4kHLqm8aLe1dqIQttdiqf2yZW9VthBOx2eUJaoNg0JsXg-gfv5E9UIO1Huz5iIYQnNXeksHP5BvNRCWPPtou5GNYjGgyl=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Sunday JC warmed up on Balconies Balls 5.3
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cl_Xbcyg5W9hSt2QoMxZwNywhnVNd5efhjROenSo5Ij_UnK2kHqYGQvW96HNN1mdQXcpvBANUkb91wVxPMlbpA674qrxoIrCqqKpXVopXaMqL2buzKkHo-A1l00fP9HAy4oEigJqdcD-KakUhjPQoA=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Sunday - Steve belayed Laura's redpoint of Cover Girl 5.8* while Brad worked on the second anchor bolt above
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dm62bSHlXJUs-6LajtVJx_76NHK8tdj8q46PoOvDwcBqp6AT4KgD66oDFMT3oqV-nFegMpdV7hFOe5t0ci-_WLxIoQbncrYgQ2Ve5FWQFZIy9rI6yHYoCBb3tZUbBPGeeCH8MiULpGm1ag9BeJyaO8=w514-h625-no?authuser=0)
thanks for a great weekend everybody!!!
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Yes, 1st Pitch of Pergrine is stellar. 4x***
The more traffic, the less shit will be on it.
I did my part.
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F4....4x? Come onnnnnnnnn!!!
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Yes, 1st Pitch of Pergrine is stellar. 4x***
The more traffic, the less shit will be on it.
I did my part.
I still think Piglet is the best climb in the monument!
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I still think Piglet is the best climb in the monument!
Lol you and F4 both. Best scramble ever!
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You need to learn grasshopper..spray about routes = traffic = cleans them up.
Piglet is Piglet, it addeds to the daily route count..
A busy day @ the Balconies...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/HighPeaks112612/i-Q28n65g/0/XL/Balconies_groups2-XL.jpg)
Sorry Adam, no good ones of you guys.
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nice pic
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makes the balconies look like a huge slab!
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Ive never seen three parties on different routes on Balconies before. Cool shot.
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More Pinnacles Pics
NOW
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More Pinnacles Pics
NOW
Denied! Everybody but Adam seems to be asleep. Winter hibernation?
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Maybe. May need to dig for my own.
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Peregrine for Squido
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/3BC291E0-7DD1-491B-90F9-3223BF9C9FB7-6348-0000058816B8326E.jpg)
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(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/424856_384412038314470_1607616156_n.jpg)
Got Rope?
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One of my favorites (but not from this year):
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8340/8271755936_431ac193f2_b.jpg)
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k
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/HighPeaks112612/i-6Txjt97/0/XL/DSC02181-XL.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Sports/J-Tree/i-4WkhSZK/0/L/Mei_Doublecross1M-L.jpg)
Bonus...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/HighPeaks112612/i-z5BWJ2n/0/M/MR_BLL-M.jpg)
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How did you get a photo with a BLL in the foreground and the prime violator of the Good Beer Rule peeing it out in the background??? :D
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nice!
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just good timing by yours truly
I'm just shaking it. Not actually relieving.
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No, it's a huge BLL barrel! It looks small and far away, but it's really big and right under him and he's filling it up.
OMFG, now we know!
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No, it's a huge BLL barrel! It looks small and far away, but it's really big and right under him and he's filling it up.
OMFG, now we know!
Whoa what did I log into
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OMFG! Brad used L33T txt!!!
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Definitely the photo of the week.
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OMFG! Brad used L33T txt!!!
XD
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One of my favorites (but not from this year):
thanks - I miss seeing the T-girl!
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Much as I wanted to go do some onsight solos today, I resisted the urge to avoid the wrath of KC or me mum...so I did this instead...I know, I know, this is supposed to be all about the climbing pics - but in my defense I did have on a helmet and an orange shirt! There are also many parallels between doing this and lead climbing...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dCR2gV4dzLmxclMlcLlQ408E3yuxXmiEI7VAQ1CPbdNVkKu6-6j0qQDNiBBVyJgVZZF4lYfFIXFOQ9wvqzd1crJjr2FHSEDGQ62qAcVNvFtohZHDkVigoAVUzIUHjFJjgJTy41ExJODaQnHgeHPUQe=w358-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Unicycling with a beer in hand sounds just as dangerous as your pinnacles soloing.
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Unicycling with a beer in hand sounds just as dangerous as your pinnacles soloing.
No worries...just the camera in hand (on belay on a lanyard around my neck)...
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Peregrine for Squido
That looks pretty sweet - is that the 1st 5.9 pitch?
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The beer was belaying with a Cinch....so he was in safe hands.
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That looks pretty sweet - is that the 1st 5.9 pitch?
Yes that is the first five.nine pitch of Peregrine. I had a lot of trouble seeing the bolts, but for some reason Jon could see them from the ground and kept pointing them out. At certain point I had to start finding them myself. They were Leeper hangers held on by Star-drives.
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yeah still need to get on this. Too wet now perhaps......a day or two of (gasp) sun is needed
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It's a **** 5.9. Everyone should get on it.
That would clean it up!
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You'll be OK. The water droplets were only hitting the belayer last week on Peregrine.
And let me note **** on a *** star scale. Everyone should do it. And I will get a six pack for whoever aids up the 2nd pitch to clean and tick the holds for my onsite attempt.
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If you onsite the 2nd pitch with or without good bolts I will buy you a 12 pack.
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aid you say?
hrm
that sounds kinda cool
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I've got some screamers and a bungie cord and I only weigh 150lb with quickdraws. I've been trying to gain weight but l get is gas.
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bungie cord? what in tarnation are you thinking?
lol
if you got the gas, then I'll be doing the leading. lol
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Correction:
On our road trip Haven always fed me the extra round of food. I said,"I'm trying to get fat but all I get is gas."
The bungee is my low impact stretchy 9.4 rope.
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the aid on Peregrine sucks. The FA did thier best to free the route, so there are sections where you transition from aid to free. Talk about Akward (well it was for the follower). Jake made short work of it.
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if you got the gas, then I'll be doing the leading. lol
methane rises bro and btw the new lol is XD - try to keep up!
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Gah, rain has made this group gassy and sassy!
tmrw we mud
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@munge aid does not count.
@Adam, not sure if screamers and I bungie rope would make it a good idea. Get F4 to replace at least one or two bolts to keep you off the belay. Would love to see you onsight it though. Would like to see anyone. It is doable but a bit hard and a bit crumbly.
for me it was frickin desperate.
Have you given any thought to Great Spectacular?
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Pft, whatever. Free smree
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Pft, whatever. Free smree
I'm quoting you on that. And how about, clean smeen. Pound away yo!
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I'd replace a few bolts
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that's what I'm thinking of doing tomorrow. Getting on top of Peregrine is too much for tomorrow.
checking the bolt replacement thread
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8274227750_6f1653fc3e_c.jpg)
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8214/8273160683_01205e5996_c.jpg)
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8274228126_9169ce86a1_c.jpg)
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8273161139_71710e6313_c.jpg)
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8498/8273160821_85aba8f47a_c.jpg)
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8360/8274227954_b995c9a8a1_c.jpg)
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that's what I'm thinking of doing tomorrow. Getting on top of Peregrine is too much for tomorrow.
checking the bolt replacement thread
Do not worry about getting on top just replace two or three bolts.
Munge nice pics.
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Do not worry about getting on top just replace two or three bolts.
Munge nice pics.
Mud- no more house.....lets roll
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serious?
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lies! no txt message >:D
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I wasn't planning on going tomorrow but maybe I should? I started surfing so its all downhill from here for me.
@mud I've been looking at Great Spectacular, and I think I see a variation that would go free to get around the aid section. But I wont know until I actually touch it.
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Mud- no more house.....lets roll
Well not working on the house today since I am at work. Working on the house tomorrow.
Hoping to get out in the January time frame.
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Got this shot on the way up to what I was working on.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8478/8275666835_9f530675da_c.jpg)
I actually ended up meeting these two guys as they were on their way to do Old Original (they looked pretty stoked to do it!). I don't think I saw them on top when the Machete Guys topped out. Hopefully they were right behind them.
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/8275670405_b599e0815a_c.jpg)
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Munge, nice shots. I like the treed in views, almost like spy photos.
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thx hombre!
still deciding whether the others are worth posting...
this came out ok...
leader from Team Monterey getting out there on the upper pitches of Machete Direct...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8078/8279356629_21dae491cd_b.jpg)
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Nice image, but in my expensive photography degree opinion the color balance can be warmed up a little. Unless you want to keep that cold dreary day / you fall you die kind of light....
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I'll try. with the little warmth I did put on it + saturation, it started looking goofy, so I dialed both back without experimenting too much.
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nice shot. for some reason I really dig the slab pic. perhaps it is the cold dreary look
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This forum has been dead over the last week...
Here is some new content. Merry Christmas.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/IMG_5408-Version23_zps8ebc0661.jpg)
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Burp!
1 more closer to Mungie
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cool shot and Merry Christmas to all.
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For some of us it is a white christmas filed with shoveling, and slogging to have fun.
I took some runs at Plumas-Eureka Ski Bowl in Pluma-Eureka State Park. This is the site of The Longboards Races, the longest running and earliest ski race in North America, which dates back to 1861. People still come out three times a year with wooden skis of up to 15 feet in length to compete in this historical event.
Check it out:
http://www.plumasskiclub.org/long.html (http://www.plumasskiclub.org/long.html)
Skinning up.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/IMG_5527-Version2_zps35f4b224.jpg)
The old Poma-lift that is no longer longer in use.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/IMG_5531-Version3_zpsbc8ad480.jpg)
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So, Adam, what has you up in that part of the Sierra?
It's been snowing here; a very pleasant, peaceful, white Christmas. Vicki's dad and his wife are here from Australia - she's never seen it snow.
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That's very cool Adam.
Brad- glad you are not getting too snow clobbered?
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Brad- glad you are not getting too snow clobbered?
Just enough that Josh is sounding really nice.
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So, Adam, what has you up in that part of the Sierra?
My Dad grew up in the Feather River Country and my parents now have a house near Portola. We came up here for Christmas and the family has since left and returned to the working life. I'm all by myself spending the next few weeks up here in solitude skiing, working on artwork, making photos, etc. My body needs some recovery time from seven months of heavy duty climbing. it was a spectacular year of climbing. I need the time to decide whats next in both climbing and career.
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Wow. I hope the introspection goes well. It's pretty country to hang out in.
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My Dad grew up in the Feather River Country and my parents now have a house near Portola. We came up here for Christmas and the family has since left and returned to the working life. I'm all by myself spending the next few weeks up here in solitude skiing, working on artwork, making photos, etc. My body needs some recovery time from seven months of heavy duty climbing. it was a spectacular year of climbing. I need the time to decide whats next in both climbing and career.
Way cool Adam- enjoy the time and good luck!
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This forum has been dead over the last week...
That's because I/we was/were in JTree and disconnected from every thing but my/our gear!
Now all the M&C New Year's "crew" are arriving at the park and we're back home with KC benched!
more later...
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That's because I/we was/were in JTree and disconnected from every thing but my/our gear!
It's amazing how the balance of power has shifted on this site. The two of you are now the Power Players! Mud who? Munge who? Young who?
It's good to have you on board and i can't wait to hear what J-Tree did to you two.
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It's amazing how the balance of power has shifted on this site. The two of you are now the Power Players! Mud who? Munge who? Young who?
It's good to have you on board and i can't wait to hear what J-Tree did to you two.
I've always said that. J/K- love you guys. Adam hope you have a great weekend up there!
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what do ya mean Mud who?
well I change my profile id to reflect my demotion.
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what do ya mean Mud who?
well I change my profile id to reflect my demotion.
GREAT- now I am REALLY conf-us-ed
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Whoops I forgot.... Never get on the bad side of IT.
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Whoops I forgot.... Never get on the bad side of IT.
So true, better to bribe them for better support. Beer works.
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The IT team is too busy with the home to be within distance of my beer bribes.
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They will finish soon. I dropped by to get a visual.
Unless they fix another wall.
By April they should be back to the mud.
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Where is all the J-Tree content? I'm waiting...
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Where is all the J-Tree content? I'm waiting...
sorry bro' i have been busy doing the photos on facebook. i'll try to get a TR and a few choice pics up in the next few days.
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Where is all the J-Tree content? I'm waiting...
done!
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Let's get back to climbing! Here's some shots from 1-5-13...First climbs of the New Year!
Aaron on his first FA (free solo) - Manatee 5.3 Crowley Towers
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d6Y96i_xKqa2Mb6fYQSSttZgK-xMQ216jfSBS3SQyNIH-_CwZIT7PD40Q2aw0DyYmzPBjou-EpJrIIsGeJvB50JElZpQOf2VRkNXuU8nDXr8HRTaIUiriT4YGGK2uiZGZJzfi0k5qZLg-NIcmYx0y3=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC strung out on the chossy crux of Keller Arete 5.8 - after missing the hidden 4th bolt...(bolt 3 shown for scale)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dotpbAtyqWCT7bycOMOTejM5IQewcKwhAXcuwwNLBghZUUJLwO40dEJJsITs8ET5NPR3cmoF0sTwCyVd8lckEYqRluAHCzS4UyhP-nol3Ohd8qMkgZL9aKuTFyRRb3jc6tm240sAD5VTDTLo1AIrrn=w475-h411-no?authuser=0)
KC follows Cover Girl 5.8* - the newest bolted climb in the Monument
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dcVCRlVaExrn-v09seYZlJbuWogu0IGxhc0uB9hTjtlm3MY6fi1IWNZDRmK7Yf4983VCjIjFGdvjL06zAZgOaJBzzVFj_FxSyVm3SdCe66OXvQ5styzJo0OrplPYy2e0uMzVE8_H7kNY_eXWmBpLqs=w664-h625-no?authuser=0)
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newest?
eh, maybe not.
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newest?
eh, maybe not.
well it is the newest finished climb i know of.
did you finish something new?
post up!
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In all honesty, I'm not sure it's worth reporting. LOL
Will know more Sunday.
Saturday free climbing in the sun.
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Are you two talking about different things?
J.C. posted up about "KC follows Cover Girl 5.8* - the newest bolted climb in the Monument." [emphasis added]
Munge, are you talking about a newer non-bolted climb? (Why else would it be possibly not worth reporting)?
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because a pitch ain't a completed climb, and choss heap does not a route make.
jury is still out.
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and choss heap does not a route make.
Dude, you having an LSD flashback? What the hell has your whole Pinnacles career been about?
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classics!!!
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BUCKETLOADS
OF
CHOSS
RAINING
DOWN!
More than a hobby...
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Is that the name of your new route?
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we're dealing in adjectives at this point, not proper nouns. :o
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8375968736_34d8875bb7_c.jpg)
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Nice shot but I feel like Jeff may be scoping his own arse.....
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nice colors
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Nice shot but I feel like Jeff may be scoping his own arse.....
"Does this chalk bag make my butt look big?"
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Isn't that a new chalk bag???
So he must be checknig to see if it does make his butt look big.
That or he has a cold one near by and Mungie is getting too close to it. Or Mungie passed something....
You draw your own conclusions.....
Good to see you Uber!!
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John took this one at my request yesterday (I didn't have my camera). It is of Rob, enjoying a spectacular view above the Balconies:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8096/8381175127_09b3f82b83_b.jpg)
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Cool shot Brad. If you don't mind, whats the formation you went to up there? Seems like a nice hike to a cool unique place
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Cool shot Brad. If you don't mind, whats the formation you went to up there? Seems like a nice hike to a cool unique place
It's very unique. Great views and solitude (at least until you're up there and Munge and Mucci and four other mud-chasing yahoos show up!). He's sitting out from the base of The 800 Club, above the Balconies.
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very nice. It goes to show that no matter where you go, the mudders follow
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It's a haul up there.
Cool condor visit. My pics didn't turn out. Think I need to send my camera in for repair. :(
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I'm good at the haul
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A cold day at The Pinns
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/4FBF7DEF-0E10-4C4B-ABF4-02206455449F-1713-000001305A76E206.jpg)
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A cold day at The Pinns
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/4FBF7DEF-0E10-4C4B-ABF4-02206455449F-1713-000001305A76E206.jpg)
Whoa!
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it wins weekly favorite this week.
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The haul you guys speak about was at the end of Brad's Tour. Talk about butt kicker.
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That's pretty stout adam, great work.
Jeez, even in my best jobless shape I would never think to play in both sides of the park on the same day.
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Both sides in one day is no problem, it's the combining the south end with the north end, rather than the East to West that is the butt kicker! WOOT!
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Does this rate? Taken near Bouldering Rock Sunday.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cvGyMxovPphRmGojYxzNCvG6PBTVERClW2lSoe5lB3X4cQAz_erVEwtGFZS-RXYUwJiob5DHajmnIDiAUp-igRipAWgJ7Ng8oKjobmi8H_LCA-z0amx_BnsSh94YX6bLeflE8mgXcnYXk5Y0cITD63=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Stemming so wide I couldn't get both feet in the pic - Lonely Sheepherder - Goat Rock 1-11-13
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cHQRYke7R1z-cF0oSq9HzBKu-ZpDxaCUuJ0xF94nPMpO2YvZvdm2r8pIQKYiO37daYUYVlpg8Fg-OkpS1UNapN5UeSfPAvNlsRGa5c43j8HWcLvQIWi_FWREaKhgFyOPllPU1OQwX_S0EiMri6rOAQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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JC, my icicle shot is of the same spot.
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JC, my icicle shot is of the same spot.
I wondered about that esp b/c of the tree. They look a lot bigger closeup!
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Here's another view of the same spot. And a sneak preview of the TR.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/BradsLinkPanos17_zpsef6dc23c.jpg)
Tiburcio's X
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/BradsLinkPanos2_zps7b105c55.jpg)
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A few quick sketches/paintings I did last week. Both are 13" x 19"
Balconies
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/BradsLinkPanosiPhone1_zps9f53656e.jpg)
If You Bolt it They Will Come (in progress)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/BradsLinkPanosiPhone2_zps02d465fb.jpg)
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Cool
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If You Bolt it They Will Come (in progress)
Did they ever come?
Say, maybe we could do t-shirts and the balconies one would be great
And the mug too. I need a new one.
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Adam, nice sketches / paintings... I didn't know that was a passion of yours.
Hmm... I'll have to be better about posting up some photos here this year!
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No climbing for us this weekend - I have field trips Saturday and Sunday :(
Today was windy, cold and wet.
We decided to do the hike to the Chalone Peak fire tower.
We'd never been up there before.
Fun hike with amazing views - no camera shots can do it justice.
Checked out some climbs along the way.
Highly recommend the hike.
Met a Mud n Crud Peeper on the trail - Chris - goes by Gizzard.
KC on the summit of Chalone Peak near the outhouse.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dHSMLCzxlpfF24YCWvtNSB4A9AxZ7Bfpte8OSllC81RQxmkunLYnCkL3hT0mb19pK5siG2FtdVFApAkFDIH_bm3Heeq4eqLCSnOTmnuDLCppPMZiHKncRMj2T-J4pivD9byfy74WjJ30y7k4nrbULm=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC w KC goofin' on Chalone Peak.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cGgJhF7HOWN5CVBM6XJgkf2gKQN2Q4YbvUUjn572NlMGszQcXFr-8YVJ0NNZHyTIMW_ntqKK6ygP-nZdc1LsMnbqHlBU3rGoCTavU39ve_OzTdyzP4qwQZ7dCJ8S_Ry3TzHxak9MSspQaiZAz3X8jD=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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I love the view from Chalone Peak. It's well worth the effort.
I forgot about this thread and my obligation to it so here goes.
Lucas Marques from Brazil climbs the classic 8a Patiasso al Pallaisso at the old school Disibilia Sector above Sant Llorenc de Montgai aka Sharmaville.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/2DFB8A7F-B435-48F5-9087-D1A7E74B7C03-5885-0000070856306B5B_zpscb9e8c15.jpg)
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Fun Drawings paintings.. a different way to look at the Pins.
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Well with a new computer....I'm finally going through my pictures...Here are a few from '07. I still need to work on them.
Note, they are professionals!!! Don't try this at home..
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinns07/i-JF854Fg/0/X2/Mungie_Uber_Rebecca-X2.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinns07/i-sFRFj5b/0/X2/Lane_rebecca-X2.jpg)
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinns07/i-MNQCzFg/0/X2/Rob_Rebecca-X2.jpg)
Final parting shot....
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinns07/i-VMWpLM9/0/L/Lap_Pinns-L.jpg)
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LOL! good ones
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Squiddo is jealous....
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=65609&g2_serialNumber=2)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=65624&g2_serialNumber=2)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=65599&g2_serialNumber=2)
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This is a climbing thread...
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It says weekly favorite MUD 'N CRUD
there is mud and there is crud
pppphhhhhttttttt
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I decided to give a hand and sent a post into social bookmarks. I hope the popularity will rise in.
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Wow, Excellent
Thank you very much and welcome to Mud N Crud!
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Under the climbing group.....
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I sent Ranger Bolts yesterday!!! A muerte!!! Biggest smile of my life!!!! ;D
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/IMG_7457-Version2_zps3aa474e6.jpg)
A perfect day at the Pinns. More on this later.
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DAYUM! Mad respect.
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NICE work Adam
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I sent Ranger Bolts yesterday!!! A muerte!!! Biggest smile of my life!!!! ;D
Yer makin' the rest of us mere mortals look bad! :)
Seriously - congrats! - I know you have had your heart set on that one for a while.
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congrats!
How long in the making? Spain got you strong.
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Ranger Bolts is the first route I ever saw on my first time climbing outside 18 years ago. I watched Pete King, who was 50 years old at the time, almost send the route as his warmup. The seed was planted on that day for a lifelong goal. I realized that it could be a reality in January 2011 and then I fell fully in love. And what a journey it has been, I've grown so much as a climber and person through it. The final send was in front of a supportive crowd of friends and ten kids from The Planet Granite Jr. Climbing team. I think they may have learned a thing or two from the old guy. I couldn't have done it without the motivation of so many great friends. A big thanks goes out to Chris Sharma, Moses Potter, Elliott Faber, Jon Stein, Justin Vitcov, Chapu Villanueva, Steven Herbert, Angelo Angelili, Eric Williams, Tom Davis, Kelly Rich, Steve Dalleske, Joe Kinder, Daila Ojeda, Ethan Pringle, Emily Harrington, Brad Young, Mr. Mud, and the whole Mud n' Crud Crew.
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Above the dyno. A perfect dance.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/riglos10241_zps6743c37d.jpg)
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Above the dyno. A perfect dance.
Cool story and pics. Now where is the video?
Surely one of those in the crowd had a phone they were using as a video camera!
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The Dad that was in the crowd asked for my phone. We made the pleasant surprise last night that he shot video of me getting the lunge move.
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The Dad that was in the crowd asked for my phone. We made the pleasant surprise last night that he shot video of me getting the lunge move.
Excellent!
Glad someone captured it for you.
The memory will always be there but I'm sure it will be cool to watch it too.
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It's definitely one of the most significant events of my life... so far. The video and pictures will be long gone before those memories fade.
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Man, what focus that surely took.
Very proud endeavor!
Learning life lesson from climbing keeps the roots digging deeper.
Great job Adam, inspirational.
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Good send! took a look at it last week, way out of my league but looks great.
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Sweet! Huge send, congratulations. I have given that route a go countless times.
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Adam, you need to get a shot of this over to CG at Verve. Those pants pop in the image too much. Proud work man!
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Squiddo, You should go look at Verve's facebook page. I'm already featured twice (once with k-man) in the hottest chicks in verve album. Maybe a third time is in order.
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We just got back from Spring break in Joshua Tree (the whole family).
Adam, congratulations on the send! That's big news.
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8650224147_c89b2a66bc_z.jpg)
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8118/8650224103_4d43033dc3_z.jpg)
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Nice Mungie. I have one like that someplace. I'd love to get someone climbing Tuburcio's....
Here is a evening shot from yesterday...it's more of a test shot. I need to go back and do it w the high peaks...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Photography/Misc-Stuff/i-p3dxKJ6/0/L/P4130019-L.jpg)
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like!
these were shot on my phone. my Nikon took a dive. lens won't close or take pics. So i'm back to using 1990s tech + phone. not happy about it. I need a good camera at all times.
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Here is a evening shot from yesterday...it's more of a test shot.
You got the Dead Heads!
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Yep. Like I said it was a "test" shot.
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beauties, munge!
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Cool shots
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Just captured this in the gym. And I thought I was the only one who climbs with shades and orange clothing in the gym.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/97B26890-255D-4447-BEA0-56740283EEB2-942-000000779ED0999C_zps2638b433.jpg)
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Just captured this in the gym. And I thought I was the only one who climbs with shades and orange clothing in the gym.
Geeeez...Did that guy look in the mirror before he left home?
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Nobody probably cares... but we saw some birds on The Condor Crags last weekend.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null_zpsce60958b.jpg)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/null_zps6aea5ce2.jpg)
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Nobody probably cares... but we saw some birds on The Condor Crags last weekend.
I care :) - we'll be back up here this weekend. Nice shots and nice work on Condor Condiment - that one is on my list along with many others!
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ibf4MOT7484/UpjagwMGH9I/AAAAAAAAOCs/hygUAo4snIY/s640/2013-11-25%252014.13.27.jpg)
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RuXbZGsQl-M/UjZID1JwKXI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/G7KAf6yWbe8/w705-h940-no/IMG_20130915_122917.jpg)
Last pitch of Old Original.
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FUN
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Um, actually that's the seventh pitch - it's got two more pitches from there (that's Middle Tower).
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Um, actually that's the seventh pitch - it's got two more pitches from there (that's Middle Tower).
Brad you stickler......no one does those pitches anyways. 'cept you.
Queue the proper Brad Young response in 3,2,1.....
Hope things with family are good
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Brad you stickler......no one does those pitches anyways. 'cept you.
Queue the proper Brad Young response in 3,2,1.....
Hope things with family are good
Yeah, you know the answer: if you haven't done all the pitches, than you ...(you finish it).
Family's great. We had a wonderful Thanksgiving at my sister in law's house in Hermosa Beach. Katie came down from U.C.S.B. and spent four days with us which I enjoyed tremendously. She seemed more adult after only two months of college.
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I've done them all at least once. :-)
Glad to hear it was fun- looking forward to the next time we share a rope. Maybe a Far Side day!
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I've done them all at least once. :-)
Glad to hear it was fun- looking forward to the next time we share a rope. Maybe a Far Side day!
Hey, it looks like rain this Friday/Saturday at Pinns. So, instead of going down there, I was considering The Far Side for Sunday. You got time then? How about Dan and/or Marc?
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Um, actually that's the seventh pitch - it's got two more pitches from there (that's Middle Tower).
My bad. You are correct Brad. Top of the 7th. Glad you had a good holiday.
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My bad. You are correct Brad. Top of the 7th. Glad you had a good holiday.
Cuz the guide doesn't have a topo.....
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Cuz the guide doesn't have a topo.....
True, true, no topo (hard to topo a route that travels a ridge line).
It does however have a very good written description of the route instead. But then one would have to be literate for that to be of use...
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True, true, no topo (hard to topo a route that travels a ridge line).
It does however have a very good written description of the route instead. But then one would have to be literate for that to be of use...
Ha ha ha ha
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Brad you stickler......no one does those pitches anyways. 'cept you.
I resemble that remark :)
signed...no one
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I could be down for a Farside day on Sunday.
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I could be down for a Farside day on Sunday.
Let's watch the weather. I'll email you.
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I could be down for a Far Side day on Sunday.
Adam - please consider using your art skills to create a cartoon rendition of the event - I may need a laugh.
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Let's watch the weather. I'll email you.
Now they are saying 60% chance of snow showers Saturday - might have to drive down just to watch that and hike around some :)
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It's supposed to snow down to below Jamestown up here.
Adam, unless it's still very wet, at least a few of us are going to the Far Side on Sunday, and then climbing a newly established, 5.11, afternoon-sun route at the Fissures. You'd be quite welcome if you can make it (actually, any of you would be welcome).
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(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/941c4ae2-94dc-4dc8-85c6-735e5eb9bb8b_zpsb76f176f.jpg)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/562995b5-fd21-4186-8514-6c438373e922_zpsa61a3684.jpg)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/84d0e1aa-e3e9-4bb5-ace3-4151ab55b800_zpsdcc3037d.jpg)
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sik!
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Big air!
Sweet, what route Adam?
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Looks like Tailspin?
What strikes me is the totally casual look on his face in the third photo. Who is it?
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This is Steven Herbert getting a little too much pump on Foreplay when attempting to exit the pod. He took a really big fall due to belayer error with how Justin was tied in for the belay. Justin was catapulted off the belay ledge and flipped upside down through the air. After this we noticed the bolt hangar was bent.
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Steven was part of the original Pacific Edge gang that started 20 years ago. And I mean a gang of crazy kids, making trouble in the gym. We set the precedent for all the other kids who have come since.
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nuff said :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c1JKxcs9-bi0wg7iSQmzkOnn4619vRgxZtQF1lJ4wMsUfgJb4Pikc4eyeBe8YCuGV4A02N4Vv8yYi4fcHV8OMUmPIrY1zQw6roOfEtLIRRxGgEg1M8uLWnGlRbM-KiPkuUdDQOL14F91kJdoLNAf6f=w750-h563-no?authuser=0)
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We climbed there on Friday and saw a sunset that looked like that. Very nice.
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We climbed there on Friday and saw a sunset that looked like that. Very nice.
yep - Friday after a hard day of drilling :)
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We climbed there on Friday and saw a sunset that looked like that. Very nice.
Jeff, what/where were you climbing on Friday? About the only people I could see on the West Side that day were those on Rock Around the Clock.
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yep - Friday after a hard day of drilling :)
Like this (location of in-progress route that J.C. is drilling on deliberately indiscernible):
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5494/11649756735_f9d093d30d_c.jpg)
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They were right above us, We backed off of a balconies route, then with our tails between our legs we did Twinkle Toes Traverse and Drop Zone, Then played around on Chock Stone dome, the .6 and .8 felt way over rated. We hiked in from the east side rather than the extra driving. We saw one other group leaving the trail and hiking up behind the Flumes. Was that You? Nice Photo BTW. Might be up next Friday if there is no snow.
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We hiked in from the east side rather than the extra driving.
We've heard that before. You missed Soledad, "gateway to the Pinnacles".
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They were right above us, We backed off of a balconies route, then with our tails between our legs we did Twinkle Toes Traverse and Drop Zone, Then played around on Chock Stone dome, the .6 and .8 felt way over rated. We hiked in from the east side rather than the extra driving. We saw one other group leaving the trail and hiking up behind the Flumes. Was that You? Nice Photo BTW. Might be up next Friday if there is no snow.
We did see someone at the Bandit Bench belay to start Drop Zone. The 8 on Chockstone felt easy to me last time I did it too but those are still really nice climbs on great rock. I like the drop below the first bolt - I call it Davey Jones Locker :)
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They are both great climbs on great rock just over rated in difficulty. They were a blast to climb. That was us drop zone was fun but dirty and I missed a bolt so it was sort of run out.
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The new route looks cool. Can I have dibs on the 2nd ascent?
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Will the holds be soft brushed?
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The new route looks cool. Can I have dibs on the 2nd ascent?
Sorry Atom - the first pitch has already been onsighted twice.
Will the holds be soft brushed?
Factor - I've been averse to brushing holds since I climb shit that's been untouched for 30 years - but we actually have done some wire and some soft brushing - AND the 2nd ascenders used some CHALK! Horrors!
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Sorry Atom - the first pitch has already been onsighted twice.
Yeah, Steve and Laura both led it. I was pleased that Steve had my daughter Tricia belay him on his lead. Tricia's climbed that first pitch twice too.
All three of them thought that pitch was 5.6, possibly 5.7 and fun. Both Dawsons thought two out of three stars (much of the fun is due to the route's position and length - like any new Pinns route it still has some dirt and loose rock; a good rain will go a long way on that, as will more ascents).
Nothing cutting edge, that's for sure, but I think it will be nice, very well protected addition.
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Nice job! Looks like a fun route.
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Damn! If its only going to be 5.7 maybe I should freesolo the rest of it and let you know what to expect.
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I've struck gold!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_55Zlb7dN_0/Uthhmi15JmI/AAAAAAAAKww/13gK3ltQgR0/w1118-h838-no/IMG_20130202_171645.jpg)
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wow, amazing colour.
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(http://static5.businessinsider.com/image/516c11e7ecad04a91b00001c-400-/gold-jerry.png)
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NEWMAN!
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JC belays Dumpster
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dbiT-OHO9vYN8kEvdsq6my8vWMjq1Q_lNkqTOcHk6bbAhZYrza1hRvLsXBpl1CCEpxfSUMA-Ctdec8fIK6gafqD1maZmnCsL5EeWFndfDe70ygMZ_sUWRFg3gTiQi2o7gNeGOzgVPYxiDk-wdJJAV0=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC follows Dumpster
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c7wwt4qNsN7POyxV1cjISTofUN-HKt0SbP81wR8Lzx1ys5AKIWtA5cNIWV9uGoL6q8s-PAINd1Ti4hJXT999PtjUVx_3KcFevCcpswle2A65R6Y2udivus_paFCB6AlBDjZThyIBNnjoSFHvxAKiLz=w650-h488-no?authuser=0)
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what route?
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what route?
Dumpster :)
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Pitch 1 Steve's Folly
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cYesDfBe9iljToBwpubzPNDJo52u2p-SYXcSbADOJMJ7Z_GCT_hZJQ33sn2lPjbnMHmi7HA-UChIQRLjzIURyPvBD7COARfKKpkCp4wsCylkngFyEQlRsCREV02tEi0SflY8WU3THRIlCqaxmuNztp=w460-h625-no?authuser=0)
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The Slot!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0JI_9_Omqk8/Uu--UZ6bwJI/AAAAAAAALjk/XDJgzPtrZQU/w609-h812-no/DSC04253.JPG)
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Nice...never done this one. How loose? Is that where gutter cuts out left?
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Nice pic and position Aaron!
I gotta get on that one :)
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Cool
squiddo, it is where the trail joins Disco on the right side.
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and the rock is good. It does not get much traffic.
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You keep saying that....it looks like choss from below but you're an animal and I'm an insect. On the to do....
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tell us more Amac!
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The Slot definitely has a Yosemite feel to it. The crack is really solid and the best hand crack I have done in the park. The gear took a few minutes to figure out because of nonuniformity of the features. The rock on the sides is definitely lose. I do recommend taping up. The top has a good bolted anchor. If you decide to do this climb please consider that the hikers are completely oblivious to what you are doing. You will kick some stuff down so I recommend that either warn everyone that is approaching the area or do it during a low traffic day.
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Thanks and I'll be doing it for sure
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The Slot definitely has a Yosemite feel to it.
I just redacted it from my guidebook - black highlighter.
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tell us more Amac!
Sheesh...now we have to have cutesie nicknames to go with our exorbitant salaries and star status? Can I be Jdouche?
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...Can I be Jdouche?
With comments like that, why put it in the future tense? ;D
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oh, somebody has got a case of the Mondays, on Wednesday. buahahaha
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With comments like that, why put it in the future tense? ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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With comments like that, why put it in the future tense? ;D
I hear ya Bmtn!
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Looks like it could use a few bolts..to keep the rope to the side.
And if it has bolts.....Squiddo will surely bite.
Plus what does that Mr. Mud guy know.
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Surprised Dmud hasn't chimed in :)
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Getting his beauty sleep.
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Getting his beauty sleep.
Nice one Fbomb :)
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Nice one Fbomb :)
Nice JC- sweet new nickname
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oh, somebody has got a case of the Mondays, on Wednesday. buahahaha
Rchoss - Just make sure the TPS reports are done or you'll be working Saturday :)
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REPRAZENT!
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What?
Its true he works hard and needs rest.
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Just got home from work. You guys are having to much fun.
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I don't see any pictures from today.
This site is dead to me. (said for the 100th time EVAR!)
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DIE
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=57578&g2_serialNumber=2)
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;D
Thank you
Still need to get on that. Had been holding out for the onsight. Going to gym to train tonight.
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=57704&g2_serialNumber=2)
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This site is dead to me. (said for the 100th time EVAR!)
Yup. But I'll still stick around.
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=57578&g2_serialNumber=2)
HA nice route. I blew mine- hung like a chimp and then dug deep and crushed the dead carcass
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Yeah, it is still one of my favorite routes on Discovery Wall. Nice line with fun moves.
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hung like chimp on two 11 slabs in the gym. I'm doomed.
Squiddo, how were those for you? I think watching Josh beta messed me up.
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hung like chimp on two 11 slabs in the gym. I'm doomed.
Squiddo, how were those for you? I think watching Josh beta messed me up.
Only tried they 11c....fun up until the aid section :-). Neville crushed and styled a foot switch that stumped me. That's a trick route
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Yeah, it is still one of my favorite routes on Discovery Wall. Nice line with fun moves.
HA nice route. I blew mine- hung like a chimp and then dug deep and crushed the dead carcass
What's the route - other than probably too hard for my liking?
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JC-
That is Broken Arrow I believe.
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What's the route - other than probably too hard for my liking?
It's one of the best 5.10d routes in the Park: Broken Arrow.
And the only place that route is too hard for you IS in your mind. You could absolutely lead this route if you'd let yourself (although maybe not as an onsight).
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It's one of the best 5.10d routes in the Park: Broken Arrow.
I recall some folks leading that when we met up for Dmud's bday gathering - Gavin had TR set on The Verdict.
BA looks like a nice route - the topo makes the crux look well protected - and nice pic of mudworm in the book.
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It's a great route.....many on that wall are. What's the one way left, rock and a hard place? 10d my foot
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It's a great route.....many on that wall are. What's the one way left, rock and a hard place? 10d my foot
Book says 11a on that one. We'll have plenty of time to ponder this weekend - soggy city - good weekend to ski, surf or slug...looks like I'll be the latter :)
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Bunch of savages in this town...
which route is this?
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5299/5566710725_9e213b451a_z.jpg)
seriously, I don't recall. can I get a hint?
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(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2761/4264739699_7ec0ec8ab8_b.jpg)
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which route is this?
seriously, I don't recall. can I get a hint?
Doesn't look familiar.
Maybe you can't remember because you have taken too many hits in the noodle without a brain bucket :)
The second pic might be Subtle Slopes where you sling a knob early?
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Maybe called "Your Butt Looks Like A Boulder" or " Wedgiesauras"
No clue.
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Is your first photo even a route? No rope (none visible anyway). No gear. No helmet. Questionable whether there is a brain present ( ;D ). Maybe just goofing off?
The second one is the human Bosche putting in the second bolt on The Back Nine, with the rugby player/Ubergoober belaying.
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Is your first photo even a route? No rope (none visible anyway). No gear. No helmet. Questionable whether there is a brain present ( ;D ). Maybe just goofing off?
The second one is the human Bosche putting in the second bolt on The Back Nine, with the rugby player/Ubergoober belaying.
Yeah, I wasn't sure if I could see a trace of a harness or not but was having the same types of thoughts - Rsolo...
Shoulda caught the Back Nine - didn't notice the hammer - but could tell from the background it's way up somewhere + there's thicker brush and I believe a downed tree near Subtle
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You can escape left on Broken Arrow to avoid the 11 finish.
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Is your first photo even a route? No rope (none visible anyway). No gear. No helmet. Questionable whether there is a brain present ( ;D ). Maybe just goofing off?
The second one is the human Bosche putting in the second bolt on The Back Nine, with the rugby player/Ubergoober belaying.
That Back Nine looks fun. Need to go back and lead that.
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(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5299/5566710725_9e213b451a_z.jpg)
Mungie looks scared....
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Just uncomfortable, ill positioning on cobble.
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You call yourselves mud masters, pft
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Book says 11a on that one.
You can escape left on Broken Arrow to avoid the 11 finish.
I was referring to Mquids comment on Rock and a Hard Place :)
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Rock and hard place is a cool route. Joe gave me the key beta for the crux and its not bad.
Thx Joe!!!
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Mungie looks scared....
He does look worried. Maybe he is stuck in that chossy chumlee chockstone chimney :)
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where the heck is that thing?
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where the heck is that thing?
Evidently no one knows - it's a mud stumper :)
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Post up the beta!
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me?
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Here you go Mungie.
Granted, my memory is pretty fuzzy, but they key features are all there.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Photography/Misc-Stuff/i-vSQwztM/0/L/RockandHard-L.jpg)
The x next to the hold is the bolt.
Good luck.
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dialed in!
Today's puzzler is this sweet ride...
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5100/5524936890_202773f164_z.jpg)
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Again no clue. I suck at this game.
where is it?
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Not sure. Could that be the Flat Iron.
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Doesn't look like flat iron to me
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Freedom Dome?
At least you could include the name in your picture name.
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Freedom Dome?
At least you could include the name in your picture name.
He's a sneaky Pete ain't he? I noticed I accidentally did the same thing on my last one - which no one said anything about - by the way...
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He's a sneaky Pete ain't he? I noticed I accidentally did the same thing on my last one - which no one said anything about - by the way...
No love JC?? Lol
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No love JC?? Lol
Yeah, Amac evidently stole any interest from me climbing salad on gear :)
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how in the hell do I include the name when I don't even know what route it is? ;D :o
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I thought he was Mr Sneaky Joe.
If you don't know the route, might I suggest buying a guidebook?
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good idea, I'll get on that.
oddly, ION, they still have Rubine guides at REI.
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good idea, I'll get on that.
oddly, ION, they still have Rubine guides at REI.
[/quote
Lol got mine!!!
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I like the Rubine guide. Well the one that says I'm an 11c climber.
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Pins don't fail me now :) Congrats Brad!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3deaQRfYPvdgOVYdxPHP6PvVbmUTpWzZgjgR9DWDGAM9227UELrnIj2fCTFxt1afVS3xhUUXfrKwYySQ1c6Z9x5U2iriDvGAWkzAt6dW5nFfhcduB6PTOvva8KP0EKmmqeIqlYO3g40m6hb5iLV_Y04=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
On a magic carpet ride...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c6MueYM904a-0nczhtxPEJdJueCdIWd-tqriEW5adbO1nUC51hMGUzVNaFhMwfCpA-4liWWkEqbf1vN-o3oKYhJiTr0FcGgogGt1wR023EEtjhipOnBCDxR6uVY-riK33mLgC-N3LDBm2G9C9Xi1ld=w709-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink drilling on Violets Aren't Blue
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d53MxxGb2D7lav0w_ZtHmdOVbq4vsArXjlkXAV9DHztWCwjImcNMbbOs7PFOeMcV0sm4y_4VRQBDRBEbiPAvlL-NBNF3YsUbcO-FYYjufUuq0EpbqcPtD8TNx4Dhaeh6H6U3PfYOO1zYHVb4aoMw47=w544-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink establishing Black Snake
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eK6OTF5D-A1ZZS-GZwkGMEBTRBwSFs-eJZEqw-0gy9myhe93sPb9YUFQoI_GLXAnItgoL6uePepKLv9vLfRabmq28Sdi8qf6jZywSDu-A-O6VPWYhWncgXX7pCGJol3FI4lDmGUpF61HrrBQfBe63Y=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Nice - this weekend?
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Nice - this weekend?
Yep - yesterday and today :)
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Arch - Up the Center was very physical and way mental (for both of us). I led it on mostly blades and arrows driven straight up:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/12604978823_11b5252c38_c.jpg)
John learned to jumar under the most difficult, even brutal, conditions imaginable:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3738/12605198653_5fedc3b349_c.jpg)
Here's my arm afterward:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/12605119075_78b4d58b71_c.jpg)
A very good day, thanks to John and to Tricia (and Mucci, you ain't no slouch either - the confidence that replacement bolt gave me when I got out to the lip of the roof is indescribable - thanks for doing that work with me!).
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And Tricia got this classic photo today: me between the legends:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3828/12605919284_870bcff0a4_c.jpg)
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Congrats on the lead. That is a cool looking line.
Waved at JC and KC on Saturday but I do not think they recognized me in the different vehicle.
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Congrats on the lead. That is a cool looking line.
Thanks, I was glad to get it done.
It was scary enough that last night, about 15 minutes after I fell asleep, I woke up with a start: I'd not only heard, but felt (in my sleep) the last Knifeblade ripping out as I hung on it. Thankfully this happenend only in my sleep, and not while I was on the climb ;D
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Congrats on the lead. That is a cool looking line.
Waved at JC and KC on Saturday but I do not think they recognized me in the different vehicle.
Sorry we missed you but glad to know you gave the crud some love :)
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It was scary enough that last night, about 15 minutes after I fell asleep, I woke up with a start
That might happen to me tonight - you should have seen me go sliding down the scree slope on my side on the way out today. clink said I controlled it nicely. Better there than on the route :)
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Sorry we missed you but glad to know you gave the crud some love :)
It was good to get out. I noticed the helmet right away. :)
Did not see you after we parked or I would have drop by to say hey.
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nice job BY and JC
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(http://distilleryimage9.ak.instagram.com/1e74892c97ef11e38c92125e9fe3ffd9_8.jpg)
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Didn't Mr Mud Free this?
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/12604978823_11b5252c38_c.jpg)
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In my dream I did, but in my dream I did it (the climb) with the lovely goddess.
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Here, I fixed it:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/12649389125_7ab38b2ac2_c.jpg)
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I like aid bouldering!
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Is that The Great Spectacular?
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I thought it was in your dream.
Yeah, I've got your back.
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Is that The Great Spectacular?
No, that is the roof crack that goes out the roof over the bouldering traverse on Machete.
here is a shot of the roof from an different angle.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=597&g2_serialNumber=2)
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I would like to take this moment to remind folks of the great roof traverse.
Cool route. odd climbing and really, really good rock.
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pft, sure the rock is good. sure.
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I'm 100% serious. the great arch is a good route.
It's an odd climb. Midway is this chimney that you have to get into and then out of.
I didn't want to follow Mr Mud, but had no choice after he lead it.
You won't regret it.
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I'm 100% serious. the great arch is a good route.
It's an odd climb. Midway is this chimney that you have to get into and then out of.
I didn't want to follow Mr Mud, but had no choice after he lead it.
You won't regret it.
There is no Great Roof or Great Arch route listed for Pinnacles - if yer discussing some crap at the valley on the pinnies thread I think we need to exile you!
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There is no Great Roof or Great Arch route listed for Pinnacles - if yer discussing some crap at the valley on the pinnies thread I think we need to exile you!
He's referring to leading the crack under the roof and going horizontally......
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He's referring to leading the crack under the roof and going horizontally......
which could be read as the one Brad lead. >:D
However, I suspect JC is forcing us to be specific in matching to the names that are in the guidebook.
OCD can be a real hard thing to manage. It's ok JC, we're here for you. :P
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which could be read as the one Brad lead. >:D
However, I suspect JC is forcing us to be specific in matching to the names that are in the guidebook.
OCD can be a real hard thing to manage. It's ok JC, we're here for you. :P
:ciappa:
Come on, NOT over the roof. I do get the OCD thing. Brad and JC share some traits eh;-)
Nice lead regardless..
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However, I suspect JC is forcing us to be specific in matching to the names that are in the guidebook.
OCD can be a real hard thing to manage. It's ok JC, we're here for you. :P
Agreed. He does do that, although with Factor's ESL it's an understanding temptation.
And Squiddo, piss off for lumping me in with old people.
EDIT: Also, I was going to email you Squiddo about maybe climbing on Table Mountain this weekend. I don't usually climb there on weekends, but I will on this one coming up. Interested in a day?
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In my dream I did, but in my dream I did it (the climb) with the lovely goddess.
By the way, this one made me smile out loud. Good wording.
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Agreed. He does do that, although with Factor's ESL it's an understanding temptation.
And Squiddo, piss off for lumping me in with old people.
EDIT: Also, I was going to email you Squiddo about maybe climbing on Table Mountain this weekend. I don't usually climb there on weekends, but I will on this one coming up. Interested in a day?
Oh man- always but sadly headed to the Valley tonight for a couples days of granite! Another time...far side is toasty!
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And Squiddo, piss off for lumping me in with old people.
EDIT: Also, I was going to email you Squiddo about maybe climbing on Table Mountain this weekend. I don't usually climb there on weekends, but I will on this one coming up. Interested in a day?
So I guess OCD now stands for Old Crusty Douche...
Now as for the EDIT - wouldn't that be more appropriate in a PM or on another thread?
I don't see a Table Mountain route in Pinkles either :(
It's a school day so I have the GB with me :)
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JC is giving every one crap for climbing sissy stuff in Yosemite when it's 120 degrees at the Pinnacles.
Rightly so. I think a lot of routes are gonna get put up when its hot and all ours.Don't lump me in Brad's age group either, I'm way younger.
Here's to burning heat rash.
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So I guess OCD now stands for Old Crusty Douche...
Now as for the EDIT - wouldn't that be more appropriate in a PM or on another thread?
I don't see a Table Mountain route in Pinkles either :(
1. No, it must stand for "Old Crusty Dirtbag."
2. And yes, you caught me sneaking non-Pinns information into a Pinnacles thread. I owe you a belay (meaning you can follow me and I'll actually pay attention to the rope).
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1. No, it must stand for "Old Crusty Dirtbag."
2. And yes, you caught me sneaking non-Pinns information into a Pinnacles thread. I owe you a belay (meaning you can follow me and I'll actually pay attention to the rope).
This was a classic response
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Agreed. He does do that, although with Factor's ESL it's an understanding temptation.
I'm hurt. Really I am.
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BTW, the valley conditions were just horrid on Monday.
No people, no snow and that damn Sun.
Have fun working Swan Slabs!
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1. No, it must stand for "Old Crusty Dirtbag."
2. And yes, you caught me sneaking non-Pinns information into a Pinnacles thread. I owe you a belay (meaning you can follow me and I'll actually pay attention to the rope).
That is good although I am no dirtbag - AND I
I'll remember this next time I have YOU on belay :)
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valley
I fart in your general direction - you empty headed wiper of other...well - you know the rest
Damn that is unoriginal - but classic!
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:$10 says squiddo is going to pose it up in the valley.
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:$10 says squiddo is going to pose it up in the valley.
Quit thread crapping! Admin please acknowledge!
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Happy birthday Squiddo!!!
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seriously, read the thread F4 and post some fricking pics.
rules violation for sure!
still can't decide if I'm East Side tomorrow or granite. argh
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What rules?
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East Side
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Bishop!
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Eastside!
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Eastside Sunday
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Clink, is that photo you use on Supertopo you and your wife (it seems like it must be your wife)?
If my supposition is correct then is it true that your youngest daughter is a clone of your wife? I was absolutely amazed at how much they look alike.
Nice family (at least the one I've met and the one I've seen a picture of - the comment also excludes you, of course).
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Yes that picture is about 9 years ago in mexico. My daughters have informed me that I married way outside my "looks class". I tell them "I got gypped, my kids suck!" Ha.They can sure dish it back.
Here we are getting older every day, but I really did get the better end of the deal, she is a an incredible person. If I can ever figure out how to post pictures with out to many pixels( Aaron says google pics?), I will get some of the whole crew up. Especially my grandson at CastleRock.
Thank to everyone putting up photos and this great site!
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Clink, I can't figure out how to put up pics, either, but I really am old.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3743/12711336534_ffff39389d_c.jpg)
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7431/12710880575_59b4c95863_c.jpg)
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(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2888/12711329694_40cf93bba4_c.jpg)
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fun day on the East Side Saturday. Got in ten routes with Chris. We alternated leads. Managed to get in a spoiler alert while Munge was in mid crux of a "new" route.
Was a really good crowd down there. Everywhere we went the people were super friendly and there was a lot of joking around.
Had a guy serenade us with a ukulele at then end of the day.
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Had a nice time on the west side yesterday, getting back on the sharp end with another recovering friend.
Passion Play
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7347/12711309744_c53f927ca2_b.jpg)
Twinkle Toes
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2886/12711414264_35ed57be13_b.jpg)
Saw a condor soaring overhead near the Balconies while snacking in the shade at Chockstone Dome. Didn't see any other climbers until the end of the day while we headed up Twinkle Toes -- friendly folks from the 'Cruz and Monterey.
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Mucci!
funny pic and nice color coordinating/accessorizing...
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Had a nice time on the west side yesterday, getting back on the sharp end with another recovering friend.
Good to see you out - we were "stepping out" on the west side yesterday - spent the day bagging various lesser climbed Sister routes.
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Good to see you out - we were "stepping out" on the west side yesterday - spent the day bagging various lesser climbed Sister routes.
Um, John, not to be critical, but you were on the East Side yesterday if you were on The Sisters ;)
And how many new routes did you get in during the day?
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Um, John, not to be critical, but you were on the East Side yesterday if you were on The Sisters ;)
And how many new routes did you get in during the day?
Yes, Yes, Yes...but I felt as if I were cheating on the west side by stepping out with all those girls...and as far as routes go - I'd hate to get accused of spraying on here - but I got 5 onsights and did 2 repeats - ending the day with some good clean fun. With those 5, I hit 199 and I've already got something special in mind for my 200th :)
Here's 199 :) Little Sister don't you...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e-lIQWnIVp22IXzfWgO8W1d6zpLrBlQcYO8hzoHa75NJPs_OF11fCFbDEwTrCXKqAem9w3UF3j5hYgNgWv8ueL-NSw0PysmD9ZedwevkIRNBVKk7MI4T4tGclcwdKU6_2zylH9hbww_JlDHuVlQi6f=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Just saw the garage door handle on the taco, but flipped over.
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banned!
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(http://distilleryimage10.ak.instagram.com/9846d5eca29511e38f2712c106be2b5a_8.jpg)
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THAT'S AT PINNACLES!!! OH MY GOD!!! I'VE GOTTA GO!!!!! SPRAY ME DOWN.
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yep, bouldered there a fair bit years ago. Fun problems and some good mantels. It was a bit wet when we were there last weekend. It is on the West Side about 50 to 100 feet before the Climber trail that goes up to Machete.
On the approach you will also pass a short over hanging wall on the left that is on a large boulder. The Trail goes under the far edge of this boulder. A few years ago there was actually a fair amount of chalk on this as it looked like someones was working about 3 different lines that went fairly high.
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my vague recollection is that Sharma had a project on the West end of the Rookie formation where it gets steep and goes over the stream (left of the standard way to get on top of the Rookie). No idea why I thought that.
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I have no clue if "The Man" had a project over there on the Western Side. I wouldn't doubt it as he has been known to get obsessed with some pretty ridculously sad pieces of rock. being from Santa Cruz and all.... Not saying the pictured rock is choss since I haven't looked at it closely.
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Thanks from the Man. I don't know if I am the exact Man you were refering to. But I would feel bad if if you threw that out expecting a responce, and only to have awkward silence. So thanks again. I mean how many Mans from Santacruz can there be?
I have an honorary BS degree
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I am a man and I grew up in Santa Cruz.
Do I count?
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Pics you jackwagons, or get a new thread! ::)
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Hey I resemble that remark. I'm hurt.
"Hey did someone say camera"...Squiddo pops his head up on....guess that route.
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Westsidedec27/i-mg7Hccf/0/M/P1010077-M.jpg)
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Doesn't look familiar
Neat rock on Toogs...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3827/13026691765_1b360a5acb_c.jpg)
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=69093&g2_serialNumber=2)
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What's with the grin Mr Mud?
Suspicious looking group.
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Escaped convicts holed up in the caves most likely.
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I guard the beer.
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I guard the beer.
I knew there was a reason I liked to stick close to you.
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ROPE!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dGLnJhh8Zmo3B-BtzYvT7moUIEPqPL3gbwH-T9j4S9OJBdNd1_QZ06RvkMEEvzee94EADa_jZQfAyrYVt6FrAv9kqtd2a7vV5qWMGGQFfj4mcwtJ5lZfnkvINcS2MnK63-GKHPytj4q9WiyJkdd3NE=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Photo credit goes to KC - chicks day out :)
-
CLASSIC!
-
Truly
-
Great shot!
-
Pretty cool
-
Met a Friend at a bar.
-
LIKE
-
Kat follows Pain in the Asp 5.4
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dOu-n6dH-aDj4QG3pF74dUdCIb3Q6qrXLBPvtFKh_KNnFJ68cydCvbNoag0RRPqqMLuwJ5Fs0OKN58fM3ryD_GOzR13PG8Fh5FqpHB_hJWaIwmwx2ycCgGLlOcgqXiKLyKEq9nB5F-hB1b8DdGGnK7=w833-h625-no?authuser=0)
-
cool
-
Yer Gonna Die! 5th Sister 5.6X
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c51Ox8KfMQHbCwKIXtiE-cl_qsJUdVtTjJRtMGeHrY0YnvOzYBw9fd7DyWmCIA1qheuWIrAHbvu3r-tXNwscFO6gdeSDwvS0ec1gOyKENdWY4SJpi90iKwhXL1oBU5tRtNbVSW-1IhK_cwKkEI5Cac=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Never knew a 4th class face to chimney could be so cool or so much fun - gets a star in my book :) Kat follows 2nd Sister Northeast Chimney Fourth Class
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cZS-g5Y5v28XzEksqzKyGESC5rS9FxVDOwnQuHpd6I1SQUT7JU3bNPsWr_CZQuLvFE-_bE8Vk8Kp1rvpsYMF9BANohq_vutIB_o29d76jPSgWIi481I2GYjf0_7n85UI_h6B03FmLrFqyxdgM8RPji=w800-h600-no?authuser=0)
-
what route?
-
what route?
Isn't that freaking annoying when folks don't label their pics properly!
5th Sister 5.6X and 2nd Sister NW Chimney :)
-
Trail break company. Silent partner.
-
Springtime at Pinns, maybe one you has a hobby we don"t know about.
-
so are you going to be sporting this new climbing get up for the MOM weekend?
-
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=9308&g2_serialNumber=2)
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is that the new mug pic Mud?
-
No, will not post that before you all get to see it in person.
-
Kat relaxes at the belay while I work on replacing an old bolt she found - 2nd Sister
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cDkospkKnOwRmsyYd7zwALmtCwOl3a3X9pLjEQ0_eT1AczrE9hbNTZHzOodG_nfYhUrrt-iHDgg92GfDuOcMD304XgTE5yOqbhtWe6BcmfEJybWUMvU5t-PBp30wIGUs3xGOaEaPKi9Wn9TrjsB1Z3=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
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Layin' down on the job again, eh?
(cute!)
-
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=5293&g2_serialNumber=2)
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I bolted that!
-
DIE
-
I've seen that. Looks to be 60 -80 feet tall.
-
Peeling?
-
Still awaiting some secondary action.
-
I experienced a set back.
-
I experienced a set back.
Is that setback, age?
-
no my finger, which the doctor says is still too angry
-
RATZ! >:(
-
Can you wrap it and do 9 finger(7F & 2Th.) ascents? Which finner is it?
I will try to keep up on a trail jaunt if you want to cover some territory sans hands.
-
I can do easy stuff which avoids the finger. Pulling hard with the other digits kicks in the extenser tendon. This is something I am trying to avoid for now. A trail run is not a bad idea but really it does not take much to keep up with me on the trail. i am also fighting a IT band issue. frustrating period of time but it will work out.
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It sucks getting older and getting joint injuries, just today talked to a female distance runner in her 60's going strong and no problems! We told her she was lucky and she said she was blessed. Plus her husband had a nice small winery. We should all be so lucky.
-
(http://)
Weather or not.
-
Weather or not.
Missed ya out there clink!
Brad gets things going past clink’s bolt 1
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ccX8MZ7-r7MwpERYT3PSjQwMyLeBKChcP7iraHwzFHTVMB_eZXjDRgY6-UiGzuz5lwGFa3K78mbWrmKuxj-rftspe6pGEu8y7Ts8v2sZgJqouS-0JvgN0YfNbLWW-WCrO9PsEaU7Rjgz3Kflx4vNfp=w536-h625-no?authuser=0)
Brad drills bolt 2
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dyqi2ROCL-VhJt73T0KhXz3634Y38zNS3Gq3dHVgAzo41ferHGyBFj2QetICHYMqYwuvywj7wAIv_Qohelo3uX2ucI8H2_pbmZ_nxDrUx_jbfl_V0kEebSreFSeszOgqcWpc-GVi_NjLH9UfRT1jzy=w526-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC drills bolt 3
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fZ9FYsxfqDx062bvrK2T3zf4W6LuU1OhqBaAY4CiSz4oebcALOO6Yp1qXwrVyr2SA_T5J1--cyDtXOr2DhtrJMT-h2UaArzSxwY3u1yKM6mw48Co2K0NTbfZFFbf4Ehgse2yORe3Zg_uab1Kz6UHQz=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
JC redpoints – contemplating the moves past bolt 1
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dHwW4kVFAuaDrnZ5yrHLX9Zc3zDw8EGL_vp_hkuvK_flgGZ7bBCICl7Zde30ew7iMcTL-n2VkRNTWvGosl_OVE9AIJOAuayrCgh4uix2ZjvGmKNDTCMiG-Ydf2YBCJ9rw4UHWG41lswLuq-dHVePVA=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
at bolt 3
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d0JdUSDHJJa5fUfdAGIRQzN7uI5aajyQEJv_m_1Fi5VR5f4pCKL9HbxY_zt3lEUx0gav8WPUwr_Ri1UrS4QhgrLCDpT0veC8B0b2ZsuRDevBnhkLwRXhOPhj_N-9C2UAuFYdjjV-utPGFuU_tKCM1c=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KC follows
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3egUiO45E6C2evIoEAMcN2t8EBrUS54Hom325eDxDFvNXHED9hb2JSYCdx-lAxHzYRd5qtak9hUKU4uT6vJxdzt4l5Smn0k9p_pizdaFOlqWvvvcb18E5YrDCroAGx1FUMktJAUjYwIbpYqMdbUjO97=w364-h394-no?authuser=0)
Summit selfie with Brad?!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cbQ0tS-r0C3p0e1X9YsYJIku7lnm_FtzwZr2urfrz2LDEZQ5wlgeMtvKKlIVWHEGSY3AFtnd8VQJIvSsLpGJnvyJ9z3J5rucJlSLbhy0jDmsxXmoaRU_UwVRf7gpZDE2QPu1E-wLksRc-M9nOCETBW=w500-h375-no?authuser=0)
Getting started on another new route - drilling bolt 1
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dUY69PUg4bQwnACJouoiMbpbEyv3TqMHa5l0KRgJhFRF7-9mW7VdH9ASNNh8dJwhKFLPOG2foVSaLyuDVILtt2wplwf-2CIHDJxtH3UszyLd9YujhYAZ3rcpPS15MVrZ7BlSvFNCTs7kYHI2j4chuc=w433-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Is it hunting season?
So much orange.
-
So much orange.
I like carrots.
-
Is it hunting season?
So much orange.
Cause orange rocks
-
Look at the orange marmalade.
-
How cute that they match...
-
could have sworn I heard Brad out there today. Something about DeAnza.
-
How cute that they match...
twinsies!
-
could have sworn I heard Brad out there today. Something about DeAnza.
you probably did. he was supposed to be out by the reservoir.
-
he was supposed to be out by the reservoir
Washing his orange t-shirt so it will be fresh for MoM.
-
Washing his orange t-shirt so it will be fresh for MoM.
Lol that's funny I nearly launched my coffee
-
perhaps it was him. I was on Portent and he was walking toward the tunnel on the way out.
-
perhaps it was him. I was on Portent and he was walking toward the tunnel on the way out.
You either talked to one of the climbers I was walking with (and are now putting me on), or your hearing is fantastic (and is the last of your body parts to start failing).
I was right there at the tunnel walking out at the end of the day yesterday. I was walking with two young climbers and talking about Pinns. One of the two had taken a geology class that "field tripped" to Pinns and so I had to ask him if it was at one of the colleges J.C. teaches at (that's when you heard me say "De Anza").
If you thought it was me, you should have yelled my name!! I had no idea you were down there.
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It was you, knew it. I did yell "Brad is that you". But, I guess your hearing is not quite as good as mine. My hearing is not what it used to be, but it is still doing ok.
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...But, I guess your hearing is not quite as good as mine.
Either that or I was blabbering away in my own little world. ;D
-
Took the nephew down there for a "Belay Lesson". He did not want to learn in the gym. I guess there is a part of me that can understand. Started off with Sindbad, for having not lead for a while, a bum finger and basically no belay, it actually seemed a bit sketchy at times.
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Laura and Clink on the MoM wknd
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Laura and Clink on the MoM wknd
Nice meeting you and your wonderful daughters.
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Nice to meet you as well Squiddo. My girls enjoyed being with everyone. Is your crew over their colds?
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Nice to meet you as well Squiddo. My girls enjoyed being with everyone. Is your crew over their colds?
YES finally the smiles that light the room.
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More bad luck. My surfboard punched me. Four Stitches today. Glad to have my eye. Out of the water for a week! No!!!
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/MOMWeekend_zps05bebfa6.png)
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dang, the injury bug is really going around.
Healing vibes to all.
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bummer Atom. Heal up. The ladies might like it, work on a story.
It is a rash of accidents happening lately.
My friend Jeremy took a 40 footer, 30 feet or so from the top of the NE Buttress of HCR on Sat. He was banged up, cracked his helmet, but walked out.
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It is a rash of accidents happening lately.
Glad you're okay. I'm guessing you'll have a shiner to go with that.
You can tell the gals you got in a bar fight :)
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Glad you're okay. I'm guessing you'll have a shiner to go with that.
You can tell the gals you got in a bar fight :)
Yes it looks like I got in a fight today. Plus my neck doesn't want to move in certain directions. Might need to dig out the Vicodin.
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Yes it looks like I got in a fight today. Plus my neck doesn't want to move in certain directions. Might need to dig out the Vicodin.
just don't chase it with IPA. Unless a Scoobydoo marathon is on tv.
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just don't chase it with IPA. Unless a Scoobydoo marathon is on tv.
It would be nice to have TV right now.
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Bummer Atom! Hope you get better soon!
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Hope you stay injury free after this wound heals Adam.
On a positive, chicks dig scars on the face.
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Just a tad of climbing yesterday after a long hike - the sun finally poked out from between the clouds.
- a few repeats of Feeling Lucky Punk 5.6*
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fsnsNR0JahmKXmpt-Tk6U9E3Jk1bc9B8k1jNa4eucJP5RmzexZq_qhb0PQVrmHsakl-ZWiFrZ355sBwRKaTmtxZGXG7GZsrezvwfx3OkbocAbD9xHc_QVBNcaU0pbuTU14iUV9koKOn0q7jXptjR-R=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
-
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinns14easter/i-FD6r78Z/0/O/securedownload%5B1%5D.jpg)
Which to use? Hmmm.
James is now using the faded one for his morning cereal.
-
Which to use? Hmmm.
James is now using the faded one for his morning cereal.
I'd need a giant Jethro Bodine sized mug for my cereal :)
-
Congrats on the new watchmen routes. I was down south - no climbing down there, unfortunately
(http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/56/65/59/566559478737e7f5d73dc2eb4f638dda.jpg)
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Congrats on the new watchmen routes. I was down south - no climbing down there, unfortunately
What? - no alligator wrestling pics? Not sure where you're linking your pics but that doggie don't fetch.
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mmmmm...much mo better...Mongo like candy ;)
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#selfie
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/riglos10247_zps1f49849f.jpg)
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mmmmm. Mongo think Atomizer cheating on moss and choss with old pic of sedimentary crud - but like giant sling knobs :)
Kat tops out The Knight's Watch
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3car6Wq_4Gi_Mbkd6Vrf6vaCWymUHkglu-2Kh7TXIgUXoxy2feLpOECyO_x0NVcBg0R4meoLRdd15t8C6RlC3gIAD84Dz8p6MUo2lAugO5hr-6HiVCXFo2AuD6uwRGGG04nYlCkOKBBSfiPOsWJx3iU=w600-h574-no?authuser=0)
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I knew I would get called out...
-
I actually had to look twice before I saw the arm.
Mudlife, catchin hogs... wonderful
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Spanish arm?
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Yup, its in Spain. Mallos de Riglos
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I actually had to look twice before I saw the arm.
I thought it was big rocks at first (a la Alabama Hills, for example), and then after I realized it was small rocks (likely from his trip to Spain), I didn't' see the arm until Dennis commented :o
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I thought it was Mallos de Riglos from pictures I have seen, but I sure had to take a second look to find the arm
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clink exits Hood of the Cobra
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eZ7LfoDJCHx6CL--yeHL86HO9hTo_DC3E1njIEwMS6GTVfUB-6vjkw8K3ZcBfkSwEKm2K6fgvScLsJvTFdCKds-vCORtRKjt7d2UNHihOdr9nlMiNgWhXzciH7jGi6eyWOx9yRwzMKhyQSxlNjbnhV=w800-h605-no?authuser=0)
-
Kat and I stopped by Pinns on Saturday(our 17th anniversary) for a quick simul free solo of The Lamb.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cQaTYS8FVr6IR_EbZg3RlubKHP6eap0IGhEdNd9W_EFlRVXhdduE4KFz68jqwSfCMHu_lzkqDEQVlzvsy3lwr41en-uOmhuIgqZyCindtL-9MPgf2-37O5X7Z0wUcv1PNJsZoZAXNp9GsHhu6hYuV1=w900-h540-no?authuser=0)
-
Bill McConachie on p2 Condor Condiment
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cu8MBZepOCeWG9G7b7aJARvyZwEJp1LKLj9tCz1aj0mG5iXS7Zha2eM_J7V5snhc66TZ0RnzqlIuwTRnoUmEY0queaRXZeYFb-yzeW_dMAyuk5985ZrrtiFkH8Eunx3s0iXiFg66WlXiVgMHLtyQHD=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Hey JC, Some guy posted on Mountain Project that he took some photos from the trail of you guys climbing the route. You can find the post under the comments for Condor Condiment. Hope to see you around this season! I'll be looking for the orange shirt.
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Hey JC, Some guy posted on Mountain Project that he took some photos from the trail of you guys climbing the route. You can find the post under the comments for Condor Condiment. Hope to see you around this season! I'll be looking for the orange shirt.
Thanks for the heads up. Jim told me about it at the belay afterwards - I think I was leading when they were talking to the guy. I sent him a message last night. Waiting to hear back. Funny you should chime in since I was just saying something about you last night when I was looking at MP!
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^^^no problem, hope you get some cool photos. I remember climbing the route with Rob Yang. The acoustics there are so amazing that we could hear a couple talking in normal conversational volume standing on the trail next to the Sponge. When I was leading the second pitch they were saying things to the effect of (i forget the exact words) "That guy is such an idiot" and "If he falls off there he is going to die" etc. Rob being so deadpan replied with one monotone sentence "WE CAN HEAR EVERYTHING YOU ARE SAYING" Pretty funny.
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Johnny, my grandson fell asleep playing with a dinosaur and the#6?
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Johnny, my grandson fell asleep playing with a dinosaur and the#6?
Ahhh. The making of a wide specialist.
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(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7477/15677123759_50f64574d6_c.jpg)
Mud on Truth or Consequences 12a, IIRC.
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(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8616/15837477206_5487184a87_c.jpg)
Brad on Operation Pinnacles Freedom January 2005.
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The short shorts actually a benefit on this ascent.
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I had to look up IIRC. I think you are correct
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New routing with Sal
(http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=22210&g2_serialNumber=2)
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oh that's a nice one!
-
The short shorts actually a benefit on this ascent.
They were out in all their glory, yesterday at the Balconies.
I just whistled in appreciation.
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They were out in all their glory, yesterday at the Balconies.
The least he could do would be to shave....
-
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7506/15736476458_a4b45cd8b4_z.jpg)
Proper Pinnacles technique. "knock knock"
-
cool pic
-
Proper Pinnacles technique. "knock knock"
Who's there?
-
heh, was hoping for the proper response...
That's Mike R., Kalen's buddy. Super strong and thoughtful climber.
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(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/62/40/107876240_medium_468ebd.jpg)
Joe Forrester's pic from mtn proj. of Premeditated P2.
-
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/2/41/145628_23195_L.jpg)
Guido's pic from a Supertopo thread about Castle Rock Spire
-
and as Mud might say...
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/6/67/Marvel-super-heroes-ad.jpg)
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LOL
-
From Jody Langford's recent batch of sunsets: This one pretty is outstanding
(http://jodylangford.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/sdim8017_18_19_20_21.1.jpg)
File under "near Pinnacles" sort of...
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I wouldn'ta looked at Guido's thread about Castle Rock Spire if you hadn't posted that photo. That's a short, but fantastic trip report.
Funny though I didn't see that photo in it. Not sure what I missed.
-
I think there are now three threads with that Trip Report in them. Burchey fuxored one of them.
You know where the best CRS TR is, right? :)
-
That Pic appears to be Morro Bay. Morro rock is a volcanic neck/plug dome so I guess that's acceptable to show on a Pinnacles thread - but yer pushin' boundaries - hmmmm imagine that...mungie pushin' boundaries :)
-
he takes good pics
-
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/27/5/392000_26070_L.jpg)
Photo credit: Cam Burns
Dan McCollum. Pinnacles CA. 1999.
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Don't drink the water!
-
Like this guy...
(http://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Mesa/i-mLMNvbF/0/L/lucas_Puzzle-L.jpg)
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and you wonder why I unfriend you on FB?
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LOL
-
I thought I was banned from that "other site"...
-
the pic was changed.
you were temporarily.
-
I think this one is better.
-
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8679/15506198203_2dac3f6ec9_c.jpg)
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that is a good one
-
Wish you could come out and climb Mud.
I'm getting my sea-crud legs back.
-
Undisclosed location project
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8564/15515030653_70e967fd35_c.jpg)
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That is two in a row.
Really hoping to get out a bit more this year. Right now I am really limited by my shoulder. It does seems to be getting better, and it seems like it is at the point where I can start using it, but I have a long way to go to get my range of motion back.
-
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7514/15587324553_bd0665050b_b.jpg)
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Nice one Rob!
-
Looking forward to seeing more posts in this thread.
:)
-
I may be able to add some more "climber in orange" shots from today's efforts once I get them (or Gavin could post some sooner).
I think it was 10 degrees warmer there today.
-
-image removed-
-
wow, that looks terrible!
-
different camera?
-
Not different, just taken from up on Flumes across the canyon, then cropped and saved, uploaded to flickr, and then adjusted again. Also, it wasn't a great shot to begin with given the low light and the fact that I didn't adjust the ISO at all.
Well, on my monitor on the original image, the shot is kind of good. The gal's shirt stands out nicely on the route.
Very interesting how it changed.
-
New pic...
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7505/16190399246_02230b0a45_z.jpg)
Some saturation brought out the color on Balconies.
-
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/16214452111_8e7de4f911_c.jpg)
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Looks like we have a new candidate for the Pinnacles Coffee Table book.
EDIT: You have to shoot for 1000
-
can do!
Any Coffee Table Book for Pinns would have to include several photographers. But that's a hell of a good idea.
Having seen Gavin's work recently and Jim Thornburg's work in the new California Climber (that has a great set of Pinnacles shots), those are my first two votes.
-
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15600801123_f4f32a6e36_c.jpg)
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Cookie Monster^^^
Cool.
-
Nice angle and distance from the bolt :)
-
thx, got a couple more for you...
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8672/15604471383_2f3121c802_z.jpg)
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(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7485/16036961740_b1749feb65_z.jpg)
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Found on ST...
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/27/41/395611_14372_L.jpg)
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Yeah, and then he had to walk back to the car in the dark..
-
Throw Back to January 2005 - has it really been that long?
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8620/16283981139_97e7d0720f_c.jpg)
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(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8655/16283981409_3d22c2ab44_c.jpg)
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Where is that?
well that first picture looks right but that second one. What the hell is that? I do not see a hook anywhere. I swear, I am a hooker damit.
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Really? 10 years, and you forgot already?
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a fine FA I am proud to have been apart of.
;)
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Really? 10 years, and you forgot already?
That long, dang.
-
route? may have done it.
-
I think they are both Drop Zone.
-
Ah, yes. that is it.
-
come on peeps, post some pics.
-
F4 caught trying to sneak up on me. Never, ever turn your back on that guy.....
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles-National-Monument/Pinnacles/i-32wkfxP/1/L/IMG_0026-L.jpg)
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Cold at the parking lot, but not for long.
-
Been so long since I posted on anything but face book or emails to friends I forgot how and even where I had online accounts. :-[
-
Clink, love that one!
Jeffe, come on mang! You can do it! :)
-
NEB. HCR? Oops not Pinnacles. Ready for self rescue.
-
NEB. HCR
NICE!! Love the socks too. Man I need to scan some of mine going back 30 years.
Did that helmet fit in the 7th pitch? wide but not too wide ;D
-
F4 caught trying to sneak up on me. Never, ever turn your back on that guy.....
(http://squiddo.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles-National-Monument/Pinnacles/i-32wkfxP/1/L/IMG_0026-L.jpg)
lol, that's a great shot!
-
It was steep, I almost tripped on the rope.
-
It's in the High Peaks.
On Saint Valentine's Day Massacre?
-
It's in the High Peaks.
On Saint Valentine's Day Massacre?
Yes great guess! Man what are you the guidebook author or something!
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Yes great guess! Man what are you the guidebook author or something!
Well I have been there a time or two ;)
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Well I have been there a time or two ;)
Or 9 million;-)
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Geez Squiddo you had to give in so easily?
Then again, Brad got me to do it years ago and it's a HP favorite.
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How come no belayer bolts? I dont want to fall into the abyss.
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvdogbws6.jpg)
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I've always referred to that one as Davey Jones' locker.
-
abyss.
Nice job!
-
My first stick clippin! ;) That start has always freaked me out!!
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Is that Walk the Plank?
-
Is that Walk the Plank?
Yep.
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No one stick clips anymore, do they? ???
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Pretty rocks, could be a better picture...
(http://i60.tinypic.com/10nalit.jpg)
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Vsi1600, nice vantage point, when did you take that shot?
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I have not seen that perspective.
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Pretty rocks, could be a better picture...
Very cool. I saved it as a jpeg so I could open and see the whole thing without having to scroll.
thanks for sharing.
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The hell with the photo. Can I get a ride with you next time? We'll go lower and maybe open some windows.
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SWEET, two of my partners are pilots but Mark Deem has his own plane. Might be a fun trip down for images in the AM, grab a ride into the park to climb and then fly out. Then again, palo alto to Joshua Tree in less than 3 hours was so much cooler:-)
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That would be sweet. I'm willing to kick in for fuel if any pilot wants to drag me along.
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The hell with the photo. Can I get a ride with you next time? We'll go lower and maybe open some windows.
Anything for you!
We met one time at an undisclosed bolt cliping chain-draw equipped aid climbing location near Sonora a month and a half ago or so.
Took this on my cell phone while flying the ILS 31 approach into Salinas yesterday with the 22mi DME arc at 5500, so we couldn't go lower unfortunately :(
Besides I don't want to be like this guy:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/helicopter-traffic-in-redrocks-nca-/110058161
Funny the guide book author endorses flying low with the doors off :P
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We met one time at an undisclosed bolt cliping chain-draw equipped aid climbing location near Sonora a month and a half ago or so.
Ah, Gold's Gym!! Also known now as The Don Wall.
(Anyone who knows the area's history will get that one.)
Funny the guide book author endorses flying low with the doors off :P
Oh, I hadn't thought about that. Busted?
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Oh, I hadn't thought about that. Busted?
That's part of it, wouldn't want to bug the climbers!
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That's part of it, wouldn't want to bug the climbers!
Are you kidding? The best thing that could happen with an airplane ever, would be to crop dust JC with a load of powdered chalk, while he is climbing a remote route.
Picture that ;D
Does airplane previewing ruin ground up, or is Washburning it cool outside of Alaska?
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I would be up for a tour if this ever happens. I could use a day off from work. Willing to bring a good beer and quality burrito. Brad will pay for gas.... ;)
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...and quality burrito.
Sounds like you'll have your own gas already :P
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This is true
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I think this pic needs a caption contest :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50268662598_69cbd02153_z.jpg)
I'm just glad to be alive after this one...
Lion's Head 5.7R
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50268642038_a0c86c987f_z.jpg)
and I'm very proud of my friend Aaron :)
The Darkness Within
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269308491_c57be6e372_z.jpg)
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Cool pics JC.
Noal was looking to see Missy' reaction to something I said about getting a pic of her drilling in stone to show her dad and brothers.
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John and Noal taming the Lion
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E3Oj14x90tc/VQc74csMv1I/AAAAAAAAedY/bkLE8551JPw/w1358-h764-no/20150315_114821.jpg)
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John,
Thanks for posting the picture!
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Noal was looking to see Missy' reaction to something I said about getting a pic of her drilling in stone to show her dad and brothers.
c'mon clink - you're supposed to be part of "creative"!
I'm encouraging KC, Crux, and any of the other participants from the Chick's day (KC's term - not mine) to start a thread about their day Saturday. I was super proud of Kat for leading all the new Flumes routes and mentoring.
-
John,
Thanks for posting the picture!
Sure thing buddy. i was waiting with great anticipation for you to hit the skyline :)
Mud should enjoy that one :)
-
nice pics of Lion's head and Knuckle Ridge.
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Ok JC.
Didn't your mom ever tell you not to climb with strangers.
>:D
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nice pics of Lion's head and Knuckle Ridge.
I can safely say the "Darkness within" still needs a little cleaning up.
-
Somehow I do not think that will happen.
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I can safely say the "Darkness within" still needs a little cleaning up.
Whether it happens or not, I'm just glad you can say it safely ;)
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O.k. I'll play the caption game.
"Who is this Missy?"
Seriously...Clink had just said something funny. I could sit on the top of any of those formations, with the 360 view, and just hang out and listen to Clink's never ending of stream of funny talk all day long. (that includes bath tales :yikes:) Wait a minute....that's what we did.
Funny nobody has asked "Who's this Missy"
-
Who's this Missy?
-
Nelkins missed me, how sweet. :smilewinkgrin:
Missy is a volunteer stainless rebolter, doing her part to make sure anchors abroad are safe for the climbing community's use.
-
Harry
-
Waldo and barely Harry. We finally found Mike and company in the afternoon.
-
View from SOD
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4gyJXvC6nns/VV_rWiHMS1I/AAAAAAAAf1Y/MK42nhgiKBs/w1598-h899-no/20150522_132505.jpg)
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The John wall project: Alone on the crud
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsybodubp6.jpg)
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Can you say "perspective"?
I knew you could.
(nice shot!)
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thanks Laura!
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JC leads The Knee - Regular Route 5.5*
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269027121_33c327daf5_z.jpg)
Another shot of Noal making the final hairball moves on Nit-Wit Knob - nice job Noal!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269027086_4582708906_z.jpg)
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Nitwits.
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Nitwits.
Yeah, obviously :P
And hey, new rule: no showing photos from Pinnacles summertime climbing without pictures of the blistered hands incurred on the same trip. It was 84 degrees Fahrenheit climbing yesterday at Chipmunk Flat (at over 8,000 feet elevation). How the hell (choice of word there) hot was it at Pinns?
-
hundo or so? When we returned to the parking lot there were three other groups of climbers. Almost no hikers out.
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hundo or so? When we returned to the parking lot there were three other groups of climbers. Almost no hikers out.
Jeeesus. Chalk doesn't even begin to help in those conditions.
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Yeah, obviously :P
And hey, new rule: no showing photos from Pinnacles summertime climbing without pictures of the blistered hands incurred on the same trip. It was 84 degrees Fahrenheit climbing yesterday at Chipmunk Flat (at over 8,000 feet elevation). How the hell (choice of word there) hot was it at Pinns?
might want to check your temp gauge. Mt Elizabeth observed conditions indicate a high of 86F at 4pm. Almost 4k feet higher (more ambient than right next to the rock) temps should have been a little cooler. But it was warm for sure on 108 yesterday. I don't know how these guys keep going back to Pinns in these temps.
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Jeeesus. Chalk doesn't even begin to help in those conditions.
I didn't use any chalk yesterday. Noal said he had a blister but it was from some difficult drilling.
He forgot to mention we were rebolting as well as climbing. I'll post up results when it is finished.
Checked the in-park gauge for yesterday and it was only 98. Should be hotter this coming weekend.
Bring your bolt bags and join us?
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I don't know how these guys keep going back to Pinns in these temps.
"By Mayo Clinic Staff
Heatstroke is a condition caused by your body overheating, usually as a result of prolonged exposure to or physical exertion in high temperatures. This most serious form of heat injury, heatstroke can occur if your body temperature rises to 104 F (40 C) or higher.
Heatstroke requires emergency treatment. Untreated heatstroke can quickly damage your brain, heart, kidneys and muscles. The damage worsens the longer treatment is delayed, increasing your risk of serious complications or death."
Follow the shade, frozen gatorades, enough water to both drink and douse yourself with. White tape on tops of shoes, sun hat, and rehydrate at Super Taco on way home. Soon 3:30am rendezvous for exposed routes.
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Bring your bolt bags and join us?
As always, thanks for the invite. But I think I'll enjoy myself instead.
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I think I'll enjoy myself instead.
So...what does our forecast look like??
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Predictable, boring California/Sierra Nevada stuff:
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.18852576900048&lon=-119.99073943799971&site=all&smap=1#.VYCMrku6j8t
(Warm and clear).
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Take your vitamins and it won't be clear.
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(Warm and clear).
And toasty!
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Take your vitamins and it won't be clear.
KC just informed me she accidentally took her multivitamin twice today :)
She and I may have dain bramage from the heat last weekend!
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The Pinnacles are on the list.
You mean The Pinnacles outside of Hollister, or the Trona Pinnacles?
If you're talkin' the Nat'l Monument, I say you should think twice. While I love the place and the climbing history is rich, I don't recommend making a special trip out there in the middle of summer, your ropes might melt. Better to stay in the high country, I say.
A certain K-man's opinion on Pinns summer climbing. Notice the plug about the history being "rich". An embarrassment?
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Shoes melt. Ropes don't.
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more pics, less heat.
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more pics, less heat.
Noal leads Nit-Wit Knob 5.7 on the old bolts (well, there is only one) - the rest is gear - old school hairball lead :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269181277_675102d4c2_z.jpg)
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Double Decker - Noal is standing above the offwidth crux section.
The lower half of the climb is obscured by those big boulders and brush.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50268981691_ef9c35fbbd_z.jpg)
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Nice pics!
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Nice pics!
Thanks! I was the official photographer and ground support crew yesterday ;D
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Thanks! I was the official photographer and ground support crew yesterday ;D
Last weekend too :)
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A hook
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LOoks bomber to me. Did you stand up on it?
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Impressive.
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/674/20663802450_d0f71fa36c_z.jpg)
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from what medium?
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Pro Tip: Ya gotta clip the aiders into the metal things! ;)
How is the exit move(s)?
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Pro Tip: Ya gotta clip the aiders into the metal things! ;)
How is the exit move(s)?
No! Vee ar like ze French. Free. Yew pompus Emerican wiz yur etriers... oh wait... dis iz a French werd. Nevermind.
Entire crack =Bat piss
Exit moves = Choss
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Entire crack =Bat piss
Exit moves = Choss
Oh, so you liked it!
(Any chance that the route will go all free - I assume that that's one of the reasons you're on it?)
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Oh, so you liked it!
(Any chance that the route will go all free - I assume that that's one of the reasons you're on it?)
I think it's free climbable. Weird shenanigans occurred, almost worthy of TR itself. In short I didn't get to do the first pitch at all but my partner got to do it twice. Bolts are junky too btw. It could use some work. We had planned on a new route but it was too mossy and chossy for us to get after it. We ended up on this route instead. The climbing is unique looking for Pinnacles.
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Yeah, for "modern" bolts and hangers, there's a lot of rust and what appears to be corrosion. But there's a lot of bolts too (strength in numbers and all that).
Let us know how it goes if you do decide to do an FFA. (And good luck if you do - it'd be a helluva coup.)
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Shenanigans
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/747/20858906951_1e16dd4af7_z.jpg)
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Send it!
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Send it!
Belay me!
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ok
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Route??
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That is great and so spectacular.
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That is great and so spectacular.
Nice and punny effort old guy.
It's an old Gagner/Bellizzi route on Resurrection Wall called The Great Spectacular. When those two finished with it it had just a few moves that hadn't gone free. It's been sort of a "last great route to free" for what, 20 years now? If anyone has had the right combination of ability and interest with which to free it, it's Kyle. I hope he gets it done!
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Thought so, but wanted to confirm.
Great job getting on the route.
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If anyone has had the right combination of ability and interest with which to free it, it's Kyle. I hope he gets it done!
Thanks for the kind words Brad. Going to give it a try Wednesday morning. I'm interested to see how it goes. Things working against me are the high heat, recovering from a shoulder injury and being as weak as Clink's jokes. And probably a little bit of bat piss in the crack. Maybe I'll get lucky.
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you gotta lick the bat pee first.
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weak as Clink's jokes.
In other words 5.15d+ quality stuff?
Entire crack =Bat piss
Exit moves = Choss
The Gnar Spectacular!
Good luck Kyle taking the free climbing to a new level.
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The Thread is back.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2015/12/21/20151221202345-e208bc3b-me.jpg)
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I see The Alien, the shoulder start of Humping Lizards and Shades of Jade :)
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;D
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bringing this back to life.
Wait, where are the pictures?
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/02/07/20160207152054-099d39af-me.jpg)
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(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/16173419898_642cfd886a_b.jpg)
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(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2495/4051328183_b9a2e0a131_b.jpg)
I did my part
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That is a really good shot of Aaron.
Good shot of F4 but what is all that stuff on his harness? lol
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anchor rigs
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float like a butterfly, climb like a gorilla
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/03/31/20160331120010-4e1e6cf7-me.jpg)
New Line - up the crack, over the bulge, onto the summit. Hmm sounds like I am talking dirty to someone and not in a good way
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/03/31/20160331120046-0b4d5aa6-me.jpg)
On Belay
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/03/31/20160331120100-13ed6bbe-me.jpg)
Lunch Top Rock
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/03/31/20160331120108-ad07a5ff-me.jpg)
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Pulling this one from the archives....
Belizzi getting western on Cosmos!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1713/25753799853_2d65d1f580_b.jpg)
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BEsJmfZFMEY/
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Nice!
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BEsJmfZFMEY/
Cantaloupe Death, yeah? That brings back some memories...
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Cantaloupe Death, yeah? That brings back some memories...
Video tag says it's Hot Lava Lucy but what do I know - I don't climb that shizz.
There is another better clip if you go to the instagram page - his feet go into space.
Mungie - I thought we didn't click on links here?
Is this the missing link?
Is he linking moves?
Is this some sort of link up? ??? ;D :D
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Dang, I'd forgotten that one...
It's the direct start to Cantaloupe Death (first 25 feet or so). CD starts off the big block by leaning across onto the wall.
I should've clicked further. The guy in the video, Joe Devara, is the guy who belayed me the first time I led Cantaloupe Death back in '97 or so.
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Thanks Munge for posting that. It made me join here. HAHA I haven't been on Hot Lava for over 10 year. So i was surprised I was even able to remember the moves. Hopefully more climbing to come in the future.
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From the MoM weekend...
(https://ebratton2120.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinns41616/i-Lthp3wB/0/XL/P4160662-XL.jpg)
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welcome spidermonkey
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Cranking Old Geezers
Depends
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Thanks Munge for posting that. It made me join here. HAHA I haven't been on Hot Lava for over 10 year. So i was surprised I was even able to remember the moves. Hopefully more climbing to come in the future.
Welcome to the mud!!
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/03/20160503143735-237e9dad-me.jpg)
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He's not even gone yet and is already giving us the shaft.
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: )
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New rule imposed.....if you leave the area, say 2 states away....
Your routes are fair game!
It's up to you to check if there are new bolts.
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DIE
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/03/20160503143649-1cb7fb32-me.jpg)
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That's nice. I see The Alien, Shades of Jade, Ridge Crest Rock and vaguely OCD's upper reaches/summit ;D :D 8)
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OCD is just left off the picture at the bottom of the slab. That would be close to the top of Pinch and Lynch at left edge of the picture. The wall to the left of Shades is unclimbed. You can also see the start of Humping Lizards and the partially climbed buttress.
; )
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That whole area must have been climbed out decades ago.
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That whole area must have been climbed out decades ago.
What are you talking about Pinhead?
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JC drills on OCD Overdrive 5.8**
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264613908_6e6105cc76_z.jpg)
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He has to wear those white pants?
So much for Lycra.
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What are you talking about Pinhead?
Look who's talking
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He has to wear those white pants?
So much for Lycra.
That's actually me and the pants are sandstone color but look white under that light. It was too cold for the orange to come out so I have on a green sweatshirt. Drilling OCD's 4th bolt - my small contribution ;D
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Cool
-
Look who's talking
DIE! ;D
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See Alice Pinnacle 5.7* ;D
There's an age requirement :lol: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264602928_b49eb89f4f_z.jpg)
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More shenanigans at Granny's Kitchen.
Drilling the only bolt on Short Stack. I opted for no summit anchor.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264582468_4a47b28c47_z.jpg)
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One taken by beanolar - cool aspect of Short Stack and nice example photo of a Pinns rappel ;D :yesnod: :ihih:
I already chided KC for not having her helmet on >:(
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264582423_9c9d4a758f_z.jpg)
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This one is for nelkins and hopefully to help get the Daisy Dukes image out of our heads :D
JC up on Over Easy or Scrambled at Granny's Kitchen - Old school 4th Class
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50265417767_8f3de30929_z.jpg)
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Tobias' first trip to the Pins
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/17/20160517094050-57591d5c-me.jpg)
His first time on rock in USA
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/17/20160517093342-12cea7c5-me.jpg)
Artsy via Google
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/17/20160517093220-30b06157-me.jpg)
End of the day
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/05/17/20160517093057-c4be5188-me.jpg)
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nice! congrats on finishing the proj too.
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Go Tobias!
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Had some fun drilling on stance yesterday (Bottoms Up 5.7* on Crud and Mud).
Good thing I'm going to the chiropractor this week!
It was really windy and chilly yesterday so the sweatshirt didn't come off to reveal the traditional color.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264524423_2af21ecff3_z.jpg)
Higher up the drilling was more comfortable. Then a juicy sling knob negated the need for another bolt :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fF6Kv21eyW3iqsPI1fuNNOGh41EGLFN_sw5gZhLF1cdwhUbdH58_SNoYbsIJeRQxseZR4niBvOUQ6DB6-LW-zcKPDzc8LBad38aj4-RTIw2jMJarVJVfrQVYu9-ajxD_q4MaLNr41_FxL98dNEmQju=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Finally found a hardware supplier with a sense of humor. :yesnod: :lol: :ihih: :thumbup:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dHluKtubBhM6nLisqogTwBytz3EdT7a4kczpJC3KWnhLxCbS9UJqBSr98ahEsfB9ag86jvLZNCNVKqC4IjFnXpCzbgOXjNCYwSuTjVsAto34ZJQlEGZZ2KuqK04znH99AQv7azLZwN7mizRWXjJAbB=w936-h127-no?authuser=0)
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that is awesome
-
saw a billboard on 99 for a company that sold barstools. it read"come checkout our stool samples"
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humor is alive and well
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Nice.
Where is our anchor with the slung knobs?
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^upthread (or other)orange dude said you were out with the birdman. thought you guys might finish your voyeur proj. hoping you would up the crag count.
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saw a billboard on 99 for a company that sold barstools. it read"come checkout our stool samples"
Alfred Hitchcock would be proud - he loved toilet humor :o ;D
^upthread (or other)orange dude said you were out with the birdman. thought you guys might finish your voyeur proj. hoping you would up the crag count.
Sorry brother - The old man was a reference to Brad - he was down this weekend even though he swore Pinnacles season was over weeks ago. :yesnod: :lol: :smilewinkgrin:
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Nice.
Where is our anchor with the slung knobs?
Nag Nag Nag.
Why don't you Shoo Fly? I'll Slab ya if ya don't :yesnod: :ihih: :lol: :ciappa:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264497858_9495bb6273_z.jpg)
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Thanks JC. Way more bomber than the bush I belayed Brad from yesterday.
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Sorry brother - The old man was a reference to Brad - he was down this weekend even though he swore Pinnacles season was over weeks ago.
Whoops wrong old man. :) Season over?! We were wearing puffs in the shade by The Rock yesterday. The high peaks are good all summer long. Found you a 100ft slab. Bullit rock. Could rival Sisters reg. route.
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anchor looks good. pull down, not out. :)
With the rain in the mtns lately, Pinns seems to be the correct choice.
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Pinns history. One of JC's early climbing outfits.
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Pinns history. One of JC's early climbing outfits.
DIE!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/4402/37085196421_94533ce749_z.jpg)
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Rip Van clinkle
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50261539371_0f15064e02.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/4402/37085196421_94533ce749_z.jpg)
Looks like a good route. ;)
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Looks like a good route. ;)
It's wonderful and witty.
Only pinnacle at Pinns with a water landing - albeit fowl water.
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Teapot Crack - this was pretty fun - decent rock, decent pro and good variety of moves.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e75p0pR3G9t9rKZTl5D3d_ewZLuDMUxWz0sH3VRxTOAa0HHLbKQALphbIcJVVr5wHkwpUfqh_LEYUemvtp7rUZXBIrDVD1d4klxuHDjjKPI2L7KRXcccsWjSRr-foNxMhw9jD9kIsLd5GZmXBcavan=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c2K0yxEo0c7GINCMqgN-QO0ZealvZxrNgHmnCaf_ncMnpYmXdqogaflrQa3ZUpUxvwZars0zttuiX7cfOC3t2uchlnkfEd071IZChvFFV-n-inJ0Y4IWfSOnT0znyCRnOQWdo_o4ju1xerg6gXltK4=w1006-h621-no?authuser=0)
JC leads Teapot Crack
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dcD8fTB0HbEm-_Ci33Kct9rotNWl07balsCE1iBLI_5caBxyUGjDvfRFCTDQYly5wvyjhFt8aqafPCj4qq621W2shR8oK8Ptt5tSkqKMmhMJipZLPaUCpjRcqbsZcFS7vVmEDd8BMNwjR4tRyuD0pW=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Kat just below a humongous sling knob on the upper face that would either hold a fall, slow you down or tear off and kill you and your belayer :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50263839817_6ae2b30d23_z.jpg)
Kat below final headwall
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eI6xpYeNzKlUrBD0claixEM_QXndKRDQn2vEUt1H2HS7jin3iaA446SFI5POKRV4UWgd4HuzVLwGbUr2cnj7EWt0xZ7Ls8u9vWFE1OuxBnT48tvMcv1LPLlRzXwFELvqxWt0CWASgky9XW5bQRQ__e=w600-h450-no?authuser=0)
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KC just below a humongous sling knob on the upper face that would either hold a fall, slow you down or tear off and kill you and your belayer :yikes:
Only at Pinnacles... ::)
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Only at Pinnacles... ::)
I should have taken a pic from below that big knob - it looked like a time bomb from below. When I got up to it, the underside was separated but the upper part was still solid and presumably cemented or keyed in or both. I slung it with some confidence and after slinging a better knob above it - weighted it with one foot. The upper part of the climb is a little hairy on the uppermost headwall since you are hell and gone from your last piece of pro (which wasn't great) and relying on sling knobs. It's a good all gear route for a Pinn head. I wouldn't put a beginning leader on it.
Some feedback on the topo: Though somewhat discontinuous, the seam goes almost all the way to the summit. I didn't go up and right as the dashed line shows. I followed the slingable features, the good rock and the LOLR. If you look at the topo it shows a line going to the highest hump/point of rock at the summit which is absolutely right on. It's a pity that the upper seam won't take any pro. At that point you have to use your most valuable piece of gear - your brain(Brad taught me that and LOLR). :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Huh?
You gonna make Margie some eggs?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eFrMnNLdLfVaCDieQUBK5HPIeC1tEdjGFp-rZ3p7Q7I719eCqRUrwmn5rnRqVhAtjEXinkq5twW4dgnUWMnTLPfXsU08WzjpvMKqDsCv55oyPAlpYq9IHT3h0Z7d8NepnhHPvoTduv-6kRWbWMl585=w1006-h566-no?authuser=0)
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Normenclature
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If i comb my hair just right i might look like the norm in that photo.
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The Toes don't get any stars but the South Toe gets 5 toes up from me.
Gotta get beanolar out there - she digs chimneys :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4411/36831177830_7dd662c78a_z.jpg)
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Yeah let's chim'it up!
kinda muddy right now!!!
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Yeah let's chim'it up!
kinda muddy right now!!!
beano's back! :biggrin: :crazy: :biggrin:
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(http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u496/noalelkins/IMG_20170320_105810_229_zpsoygd6qos.jpg)
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Cool perspective!
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You two are a reckoning to be forced with.
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what about the tree shot?
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Is that the lower pitch for Humping Lizards?
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(http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u496/noalelkins/20170319_175054_001_zps3hywpgjq.jpg)
Climber from a tree's perspective.
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Posted on: Today at 02:28:00 PM Posted by: JC w KC redux
Insert Quote
Is that the lower pitch for Humping Lizards?
Like the FBI I cannot comment. I can leak the info it is 10c/d
Edit: that's not the official rating. What I meant was it is somewhere between 10c and 11a. Some crux holds have an expiration date.
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Like the FBI I cannot comment. I can leak the info it is 10c/d
In other words, yes, it is a new approach pitch to Humping Lizards. And there is no such thing as 5.10c/d; you should be ashamed of having written that.
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And there is no such thing as 5.10c/d; you should be ashamed of having written that.
Oh wait, I got it confused with something else. It is 5.9.
I know no shame.
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Like the FBI I cannot comment. I can leak the info it is 10c/d
That's funny. It looks really featured and fun.
Oh well, some of us just weren't meant to do certain routes.
Or am I just in DeNoal? :lol:
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It progressively becomes more difficult. In the pic Mr. Mud is @ the crux bulge.
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Bulges are hard! Pinnacles seems to have a lot of them.
The photos (all three from the weekend) are nice! Congratulations on finally getting a day of nice weather for your outing.
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^Thanks! We were talking about how you would cruise the bulge on this route. How was Sunday in the Valley?
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I'm getting more comfortable with bulges, but they are still hard.
Yeah, I spent Saturday at Pinnacles and then went straight to the Valley for Sunday. The best of both worlds! It was perfect weather there just as it was for you guys at the Pinns.
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I'm getting more comfortable with bulges, but they are still hard.
Yeah, I spent Saturday at Pinnacles and then went straight to the Valley for Sunday. The best of both worlds! It was perfect weather there just as it was for you guys at the Pinns.
Wow. And I thought I drive a lot....
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Wow. And I thought I drive a lot....
You drive a lot.
It was my first time back to the Valley this year. Mainly because I saw what the weather would be like the following week.
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The tree shot is cool.
@Mudworm, what did you climb in the valley?
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@Mudworm, what did you climb in the valley?
Routes like Butterballs are not mention-able on the Pinnacles forum! :D
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of course not.
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Mug Shot 5.7*
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/33101144932_6caf98b7f0_b.jpg)
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The other mistress of mud, bolting on lead last Sunday:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/662/33556957806_a238b1d9e0_b.jpg)
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/33101144932_6caf98b7f0_b.jpg)
Someone's doing a piss-poor J.C. impersonation on Mug Shot: that's not even the correct shade of orange >:D
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Vic doesn't mudncrud. So I don't think he knows of what you speak.
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Vic doesn't mudncrud. So I don't think he knows of what you speak.
Vic said Pinns is his climbing destination of last resort. He goes there once or twice a year. :lol:
Accept no substitute. JC drills the last bolt on Mug Shot 5.7*
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50260424353_be26f58541_z.jpg)
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Climber from a tree's perspective.
Neat shot. Looks like a womb with a view :lol:
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The other mistress of mud, bolting on lead last Sunday:
Looks like a good stance. That should be a very well protected route from how it looks so far.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50260424353_be26f58541_z.jpg)
That's a real nice angle!
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That's a real nice angle!
It's my favorite pic. Tricia took it :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Cool pic, JC was under a restraining order that I filed.
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/33101144932_6caf98b7f0_b.jpg)
Hey, stalker munge that's me on the summit
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Suiddo, there is a route to be done in that pic. The third bolt on that anchor was placed on a separate plate.
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off to the right of the pic is a steep 5.11 face
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7th Heaven
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eACG5SNySMmdiGFMbAff7MIKhjncL6islCj0voOUkUZ2_3Rnnnp1igvGsAKRtWwGYPdt0VB8X-TnCoh42YK2T78vwqJkytdRRakJQKLjRM7Zwfs0NVEhw474f_ZbxNZ7gz6gxd7BY1QdmlaZKk30vd=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Holy, holy wow. What a photo!
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Nice!
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You adopted a Teddy bear? Down right nice!
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I needed male support and the teddy was available.
Don't use the above statement out of context.
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I needed male support and the teddy was available.
Don't use the above statement out of context.
So tempting. I don't want to permanently traumatize everyone on the site.
How about some lizard love instead? Kat and beano thought Humping Lizards was going to become a reality today :lol:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50261259482_76ff1eaae1_z.jpg)
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(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b571/nelkins182/IMG_20170410_111426_003_zpszqnn880d.jpg)
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looks awkward
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And steep.
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looks awkward
Is that the true aspect? Looks rotated and sideways.
Nice colors either way :biggrin:
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Yes. Look how the bolt bag is hanging. Climb goes up diagonally. :
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Yes. Look how the bolt bag is hanging. Climb goes up diagonally. :
Thanks for setting me straight :biggrin:
I need to remember to check the angle of the dangle :lol:
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Yes. Look how the bolt bag is hanging. Climb goes up diagonally. :
I just wires to push the bag out from my butt. In photos from a distance you can't tell I'm on slab.
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munge, awesome advice. I will be sure to remember that. This route ( potential route ) is a vertical to to slightly overhanging. Knowing my ability to judge, my 5.7 routes seem to keep turning 5.10, I am hoping I do not have to make a Gavin call. lol
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I just wires to push the bag out from my butt. In photos from a distance you can't tell I'm on slab
Awesome. Love it!
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Knowing my ability to judge, my 5.7 routes seem to keep turning 5.10, I am hoping I do not have to make a Gavin call. lol
I haven't had that problem.
To my delight I have had several of my 5.7 routes be in your face five sevens. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yikes:
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/04/11/20170411144632-11db7776-me.jpg)
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/04/11/20170411144500-0c673c87-me.jpg)
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Those are great shots with wonderful colors.
New camera?
The first one shows the San Andreas rift quite nicely and the other west side sunset is tasty :thumbup: :biggrin:
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(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b571/nelkins182/aviary-image-1491958618211_zpslbdye5vv.jpeg)
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Old camera, new settings.
New camera?
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I spy the rift, Mud, Shades of Jade and Humping Lizards :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b571/nelkins182/aviary-image-1491958618211_zpslbdye5vv.jpeg)
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PRS, Up the Buttress, Sunshine Pinnacle, Top of OCD.
Good Pic Noal
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PRS, Up the Buttress, Sunshine Pinnacle, Top of OCD.
Good Pic Noal
PRS?
Sunshine Pinnacle? Is that The Pinnacle? :biggrin:
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It's all mine!!! All of it!
Mud, U in town? Our couch is calling your name.
We need to compare WA beers (Oly) to Cali (Stone).
I'd invite Mungie were he around.
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Pet Rock Syndrome, yes, Sunshine Pinnacle
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you mean Rainier, there are so many micro beers
It's all mine!!! All of it!
Mud, U in town? Our couch is calling your name.
We need to compare WA beers (Oly) to Cali (Stone).
I'd invite Mungie were he around.
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Oh yeah! Rainier tall boys! Used to be able to get those down here. They still have them in Washington?
I have been to the Olympia brewery quite a few times. My friend dave went so many times that Fred the tour guide let him give part of the tour once. Back then they made all the good stuff like Hamms, OE 800, and OLY. I will always have a soft spot for OLY. One of my favorite cheap beers. "It's the water. Drink Olympia beer"
[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Pet Rock Syndrome, yes, Sunshine Pinnacle
PRS came to me after I shut the computer down and got ready to hit the road home.
I was originally going to call Agent Orange, Orange Sunshine but after we finished it Agent Orange seemed more appropriate - what a trip huh? :lol: :crazy: :out:
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That commercial is freakin' hilarious Nelkins :lol: :out: :guitar:
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Pretty cool eh?
Looks like Bev Johnson in that commercial. Can anybody identify any of the other climbers?
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How long were you in the Northwest?
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I might steal Orange Sunshine
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How long were you in the Northwest?
I used to roadie for friend's bands when i was 18-25. Every time we would pass through Olympia we would go to the brewery. I think I have been there 5 or 6 times. Also went to the Redhook brewery BITD. At the end they would do a Q and A at the bar and fill up pitchers of beer. We would ask a ton of questions and pound the beers super fast. If you were lucky you could put down at least a pitcher a person sometimes more.
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too funny.
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Pretty cool eh?
Looks like Bev Johnson in that commercial. Can anybody identify any of the other climbers?
The guy needed a beer before starting the rappel. Olympia Beer, reduces hyperventilation.
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I have been to the Olympia brewery quite a few times. My friend dave went so many times that Fred the tour guide let him give part of the tour once. Back then they made all the good stuff like Hamms, OE 800, and OLY. I will always have a soft spot for OLY. One of my favorite cheap beers. "It's the water. Drink Olympia beer"
Nice! Mr Mud talks about Wa beer....Oly and Rainer come to mind. Quality stuff.
Hamms, now there is a name from the past, before I could drink.
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Nice! Mr Mud talks about Wa beer....Oly and Rainer come to mind. Quality stuff.
Hamms, now there is a name from the past, before I could drink.
My first drink of beer was probably a tall boy of some sort - Schlitz malt liquor if I remember correctly or maybe Colt 45 or possibly some of both. We were under the viaduct in Cuyahoga Falls.
I remember the first time I got really drunk. I was with my best friend and he had stashed two six packs of Strohs in the snow down on the railroad tracks by a bridge we used to hang out under not far from his house. It was wintertime so we were bundled up and we walked down there and guzzled a 6 pack each. I was fine while we were walking around out in the dark and cold but when we went back to his house and went inside I realized how cooked I was and spent the rest of the night puking in the stationary tubs in his basement. Of course his mom came down and caught us when she heard all the wretching. I was probably 14. I remember I had sloppy joes and cottage cheese with canned pears for dinner beforehand. :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke:
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Hey, any beer endorsed by the guy who invented the dance The Funky Chicken has got to be good!
I have drank many a Schlitz and Colt 45. Colt 45 works every time!
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My first drink of beer was probably a tall boy of some sort - Schlitz malt liquor if I remember correctly or maybe Colt 45 or possibly some of both. We were under the viaduct in Cuyahoga Falls.
I remember the first time I got really drunk. I was with my best friend and he had stashed two six packs of Strohs in the snow down on the railroad tracks by a bridge we used to hang out under not far from his house. It was wintertime so we were bundled up and we walked down there and guzzled a 6 pack each. I was fine while we were walking around out in the dark and cold but when we went back to his house and went inside I realized how cooked I was and spent the rest of the night puking in the stationary tubs in his basement. Of course his mom came down and caught us when she heard all the wretching. I was probably 14. I remember I had sloppy joes and cottage cheese with canned pears for dinner beforehand. :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke:
Change a few facts (and my age - I was 19) and you'll understand why I hate white wine.
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I realized how cooked I was and spent the rest of the night puking
Embrace who you are. :)
Thanks for the tale. I had a Corona with lime and salt yesterday, paired with two bean and cheese burritos.
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I used to roadie for friend's bands when i was 18-25. Every time we would pass through Olympia we would go to the brewery. I think I have been there 5 or 6 times. Also went to the Redhook brewery BITD. At the end they would do a Q and A at the bar and fill up pitchers of beer. We would ask a ton of questions and pound the beers super fast. If you were lucky you could put down at least a pitcher a person sometimes more.
Went there my 1st time to Seattle. I was shocked they had scratched and dented beer for sale.....so maybe 1 small redeeming quality for up there...RedHook.
Still, Cali beer is where it's at......
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Kind of funny beers like Redhook were considered microbrews back then.
Truth is nowadays there are tons of craft breweries all over the u.s. (world?) that good beer is everywhere. I think it is one type of small business that has had the most growth since the recession.
California does have a ton of good ones. Too bad I no longer drink beer.
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Distilling is the new wave.
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Distilling is the new wave.
Focus man!!
It's all about the Cali IPA.....
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(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/04/11/20170411144425-a1c9ad45-me.jpg)
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Pyramid Pinnacle
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4383/37055656992_be9d0e8b95.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4360/37055657242_d2863deacc_z.jpg)
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Pharaoh!
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nice
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Pic makes it look tall. Good position of a line.
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new google earth app landsat images are fantastic...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2819/33415771464_9d3c94b8a3_c.jpg)
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4173/34126763841_f37d017193_c.jpg)
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wow, those are good. From Google Earth? Really?
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no joke. sh1t just got real regarding looking for crags. check out El Cap.
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Aw crap. Like I needed another way to screw around on the computer?!
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I agree, tonight is written off.
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I feel your pain. Sunlit south facing rock faces are the best resolution assuming they aren't buried in narrower than Yosemite sized canyons. Narrower canyons have less reflective light so they seem to be lower resolution.
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Kat told me to post this.
My brother found it at my mom's house.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4584/38094595156_a95d677f8e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/213hKWL)
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Kat told me to post this.
My brother found it at my mom's house.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4584/38094595156_a95d677f8e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/213hKWL)
GEEEEsus.
I'll take fries with my burger please ;D
When, who and where?
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From left to right it's Barb, Sue, Dave and the Frisch's Big Boy :lol:
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From left to right it's Barb, Sue, Dave and the Frisch's Big Boy :lol:
And these people are...?
From your youth in the midwest? My initial impression is that the photo would have been taken around 1875?
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How many shirts were you able to make out of that table cloth JC?
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And these people are...?
From your youth in the midwest? My initial impression is that the photo would have been taken around 1875?
Seriously dude? You don't see the family resemblance? All the Cookie sibs in one place. circa mid eighties. KY.
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That shirt declares race winners!
#nascar4lyfe
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scary
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Ubergoober getting sendy
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2592/4261683394_7be88ae58e_b.jpg)
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Good Times
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Uber!!!!
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Is he still alive??
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Is he still alive??
No, he was swallowed by an Orc.
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There are plenty of photos of Pinnacles classics on this thread.
Tricia and her cousin Hitch and I got in a few of the great routes over the last three days (with the help of John, Kathy and Mark). And we got photos to match. But we've all seen glory photos on summits (and, of course, we got several of those this trip).
But, a change of pace is fun now and then. So, without further ado, here are a series of unorthodox Pinnacles summit photos:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4645/25522888908_caaeb1c874_c.jpg)
That's Tricia and the summit of Condor Crag - South. Here's the matching photo:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4680/24527624257_18608eccfd_c.jpg)
Tricia on Photographer's Delight:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4598/27616052139_79548f8cc3_c.jpg)
And the classic shot:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4589/27616055609_aea003da35_c.jpg)
My nephew Hitch led his first several routes this trip, including Photographer's:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4642/27616031589_8d64364676_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4686/38685082014_c3042783b6_c.jpg)
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Cool Tricia and Hitch!
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Brad - I sent you a few more shots.
Kat and I climbed at Condor today - did both old routes to the summits and the 5.7 Traverse - which like the starting pitch is not 5.7 :biggrin:
Temps were perfect and we had a blast.
Back out with the clinker tomorrow :ihih: :devildevil:
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I ate Mexican today, well on my way to changing my handle to stinker. >:D
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I ate Mexican today, well on my way to changing my handle to stinker. >:D
Oh good Lord - shouldn't that go on the Special Edition thread? :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup:
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Kat and I climbed at Condor today - did both old routes to the summits and the 5.7 Traverse - which like the starting pitch is not 5.7 :biggrin:
I forgot to mention that I thought the traverse is a super cool climb and definitely 2 stars.
I thought the traverse portion was easy and really fun but Kat said it was reachy for her - plus we all know following a traverse is not the most pleasant experience. That last face is short but stout and sustained and the joy knob you finally get to felt hollow and maybe a bit loose - scared the crap out of me after making a sequence of hard moves(and a lot of old man noises) to get to it :yesnod:. Definitely the crux portion for me. I hooped and hollered after getting to that point and again on top. Great day for the Cookies.
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Fueled up with more beans at the Soledad bakery.
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First bolt on The Wedge
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4699/25845434508_85b0d07134_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FnSBeN)
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Wow, that’s a beauty. Welded cold shut, loose to wall, and I bet that’s just bar stock.
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Wow, that’s a beauty. Welded cold shut, loose to wall, and I bet that’s just bar stock.
It makes the start exciting :yesnod: :biggrin:
Here is one of the original quarter inch bolts Bruce and Clint left higher up. There is a replacement about 2 feet to the left of it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4628/24848666927_d6bfd550b4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DRMUXR)
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That's a gem! Hope lots of people get to enjoy bypassing it's horribleness!
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Them bolts are fine. Mr mud would clip them.
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what's this one called?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4070/4320969463_d8d8033415_z.jpg)
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nothin much
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what's this one called?
Is that the one right before Photographer's Delight when hiking in from the Scout Peak bench/Outhouse?
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4825/44538068020_dc46f40130_z.jpg)
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Nice! Rocks, sticks and dirt, best toys ever.
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Nice! Rocks, sticks and dirt, best toys ever.
Correct - she was perfectly happy playing with the rocks. I loved that she was saying rock and stick. She also loves climbing around on the rocks!
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Nice! Rocks, sticks and dirt, best toys ever.
Toys? You're nuts. Two of those are food groups.
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Careful, the older they get, the more they eat and they start getting into your gear.
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Am I correct in assuming everyone has seen the pics of Pinnacles in this older issue of Cali Climber?
https://californiaclimbermagazine.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/cc11_winter14_master_hires_web.pdf
So good.
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Nice
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Feed the beast 11d? That’s why I never got it..
Nice images, with good colors.
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who voted the upgrade?
I was not consulted ...
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thx goodness, else it would be 10d! lol
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who voted the upgrade?
I was not consulted ...
It's 11c on my list 8)
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Careful, the older they get, the more they eat and they start getting into your gear.
I must be in my second childhood. I take what I can get.
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Ooh, more miniature mudders! I love it.
And regarding munge's link, when did Lava Falls become an R?
Edit: looking more closely, every route I check has a bump in grade or in danger, if not both, over Brad's guide. ::)
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Geez...how about posting some pictures?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4809/32539893708_cb8f626695.jpg)
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I need to find a new image host so everything doesn't have the giant Photobucket watermark on it. I'm open to suggestions.
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I need to find a new image host so everything doesn't have the giant Photobucket watermark on it. I'm open to suggestions.
I'm using Flikr but it has a limit that will be reached eventually
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Flickr blows chunks
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Flickr blows chunks
So does Bookface. And most on-line apps. For phucks sake, the only one of them that doesn't blow chunks is Mudn'Crud and that's only good because I know the owner's phone number and can call and threaten him.
But in the greater scheme of things, their flaws and the amount they charge are inconsequential. My Flickr account exceeded the "free limit" of photos long, long ago. So I "auto-pay" them annually (or every other year, I don't recall) and will for as long as I can see ahead. The annual cost? About the same as gas for two trips to and from Pinnacles. Or a dozen bolts with hangers.
Bigger fish to fry.
Now, excuse me, I've had a very, very intense day at work. I'm home now and halfway through a glass of wine (and quite feeling it). Lemme get back to that.
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I'm home now and halfway through a glass of wine (and quite feeling it). Lemme get back to that.
Go easy lightweight :lol: :yesnod: :nono: :devildevil:
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So does Bookface. And most on-line apps. For phucks sake, the only one of them that doesn't blow chunks is Mudn'Crud and that's only good because I know the owner's phone number and can call and threaten him.
But in the greater scheme of things, their flaws and the amount they charge are inconsequential. My Flickr account exceeded the "free limit" of photos long, long ago. So I "auto-pay" them annually (or every other year, I don't recall) and will for as long as I can see ahead. The annual cost? About the same as gas for two trips to and from Pinnacles. Or a dozen bolts with hangers.
Bigger fish to fry.
Now, excuse me, I've had a very, very intense day at work. I'm home now and halfway through a glass of wine (and quite feeling it). Lemme get back to that.
You did not exceed 1TB of data. I assure you. But Then Flickr blocks access if you don’t pay and doesn’t give a way to download in bulk? Irksome.
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You did not exceed 1TB of data. I assure you. But Then Flickr blocks access if you don’t pay and doesn’t give a way to download in bulk? Irksome.
I'm pretty sure you're right. A terabyte is a hell of lot of photos. I don't have that many even if we include all the butt shots I've taken of you over the years.
But I'm not sure a terabyte actually applies to my 15 year old Flickr account. Terms and conditions were very different when I became a "paying customer" years ago. My aged memory is that I started paying for the account at around 1,000 photos?
Now, quit bugging me, I'm having quite some fun on the political thread over on Supertopo. You know, making rational posts in a stupid thread, all in a semi-respectful manner while 3/4 drunk.
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Flikr works for me.
Of course there is the 1k limit...1tb, that’s a lot.
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Quick to criticize what's out there but still not recommending a solution and...bonus - you're still not posting any pictures on a pictures thread.
Took out some more trash this week.
A leaver biner that was laying at the anchor after the tat rotted away, the tat (retrieved from several spots it blew to and stuck to the rock), another one of those set-bolts and homemade hanger (with a stack of 8 washers on it and the nut barely on), a Leeper from a stud that broke off when I tried to loosen the nut and a star with the lead sleeve smashed and mangled up high when it was driven (came out intact - just as you see it). Nice workmanship and materials :yikes:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7831/46370121542_35f66be07c_z.jpg)
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Yes, cuz I can't figure out how to edit the link to post pictures.
Flikr works as long as you have under 1,000 photos.
Is that leaver Biner Mr Mud's?
You never know.
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Yes, cuz I can't figure out how to edit the link to post pictures.
Flikr works as long as you have under 1,000 photos.
Is that leaver Biner Mr Mud's?
You never know.
Use the BBCode and just keep what is between the two [img]'s - delete the rest
Yeah I got a reminder about the 1000 photo limit a while ago. I'm not to 500 yet.
Don't know what I'll do when that runs out - get KC to create one :ihih:
That leaver could be. We may never know :rolleyes:
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I have some like that. lite but kind of weird.
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Is that a 1-1/2" Star Dryvin on the homemade hanger?
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Such quality gear!!
Nothing like a home made hanger.
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Is that a 1-1/2" Star Dryvin on the homemade hanger?
Nope - it is a 2 1/2 which is what I usually find with stars.
The set-bolt is 2 3/4. I called it a toothpick bolt when I was talking to clink today - 1/4 inch shaft. Really scary stuff - especially with all those washers added and the nut was flush with the end of the stud - no threads showing - not even a hint of one! :yikes: :crazy: :eeeek:
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4895/31507965067_48ed9fd9ae_z.jpg)
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Flash back.....and I took JC advice and removed some of the url crap....
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/Condor04/i-kSxfb3T/0/f044458b/L/P1010066-L.jpg)
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Hey, nice job on F4 posting some photos again.
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Excellent.
That is a determined looking Mud.
What is his right pinkie doing?
Is Mud double-jointed? :idea: :yesnod: :nonod: :confused:
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I've got a few more....
The famous white trooper with no heat, in the designated Trooper parking spot.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/Sports/PinnaclesWestside031007/i-kzvhMr4/0/26d7a55b/L/P1010001-L.jpg)
Mr Mud on a horrific inverted slab...
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/Sports/PinnaclesWestside031007/i-BgcgBMf/0/bf1f5d7e/L/StromScared3-L.jpg)
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^^^
The second one is so fake that it isn't even a close call. It could be closer though with some TLC by Beano....
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I stumbled on these pictures.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Pinns031906/i-T33HKtS/3/8074f78c/L/DSC_2136-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Pinns031906/i-ZWcQ2dW/4/f0523fb8/L/DSC_2129-L.jpg)
:thumbup:
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That Trooper picture makes me cringe. :eeeek: :rolleyes:
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Hey, he said he would drive..and you didn’t need to wipe your feet before you got in.
Mr Mud was following me after an amazing lead and is at the supposedly 5.8 crux. Looks like he had to use his power pinky to hang on. Brad was around to corner drawing something.
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^^^^
Funny dude.
How fast can you label Bill's Bad Bolts, Rock Around the Clock and Los Banditos?
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7881/31512113227_02f9fbce16_z.jpg)
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Done....all said routes are around the Much Shiitty label.
What a pile!!
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Done....all said routes are around the Much Shiitty label.
What a pile!!
Can you believe it says that when you zoom in on Google Earth?!
It takes a while for the view to settle (in street view from the Flumes) but it is crazy no? :crazy:
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Pinky Power, that is the secret weapon. The only regret with that Trooper was getting rid of it.
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Can you believe it says that when you zoom in on Google Earth?!
It's a very, very cynical web application. Check Yosemite Valley for El Crap, Tuolumne Meadows for Merry Wannabe Dome, and Joshua Tree for Outhouse Rock.
Merry Christmas everyone!! Love you one and all ;D
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Merry Christmas
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Can you believe it says that when you zoom in on Google Earth?!
Priceless that what we say in jest is now truth....that will throw some of use for a loop. THat also means we need to keep calling it a Monument.
PS that's Munge's fault as he coined the term.
Priceless!!
"excuse me, can you direct me to Much Shitty Ridge?"
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Scary, I just looked on Google Earth and they have a 3D rendering of Muchshitty, and the entire monument.
I spotted some new lines.
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Merry Christmas! :devildevil:
:crying: :crying:
:crying: :crying: :crying:
:crying: :crying: :crying: :crying:
:crying: :crying: :crying: :crying: :crying:
:madman:
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Merry Christmas
:blush2: :blush2: :blush2:
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Muddy Crudsmas :thumbup: :biggrin: :arf:
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:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Ha that's a good one Clink
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yes, nice Clink
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It's a very, very cynical web application
(http://www.poorlydrawnlines.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/internet.png)
Happy to contribute :lol:
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Somebody was f'ing around with the tree topper. They moved it to the right. Was this a political statement in our pure and free forum?
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Somebody was f'ing around with the tree topper. They moved it to the right. Was this a political statement in our pure and free forum?
The head banger is still skewed left.
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If JC messes with my post, is it divine intervention? Next thing you know, virgins will be pop'n out kids.
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I didn’t know this was a right sided site?
Must be them Santa Cruz folks on the site.
Can’t trust them.
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The head banger was looked at in both places and artistic license was invoked. Now put the devil tree topper back where it was!!!!
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^^^
Glad to see such peace and brotherly love on the day after Christmas. You people do understand that the Brits don't call it Boxing Day because you're supposed to fight.
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The head banger was looked at in both places and artistic license was invoked. Now put the devil tree topper back where it was!!!!
I have no idea what you are referring to. The topper is where it was. :ihih:
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I've got another box of star-dryvins to put under the tree - if that will make anybody happy.
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I've got another box of star-dryvins to put under the tree - if that will make anybody happy.
Someone musta been good this year!
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i got myself a battery powered sds hammer drill. Bob, you and I are set for action..
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I have no idea what you are referring to. The topper is where it was. :ihih
>:D The devil is so in the details.
;D
Insert Quote
I've got another box of star-dryvins to put under the tree - if that will make anybody happy.
Can I have some?
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Somebody was f'ing around with the tree topper. They moved it to the right. Was this a political statement in our pure and free forum?
Not right...
Climbers LEFT! :)
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Found this unclimbed streak. Going to load it up with bolts.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4011/4226680223_430448a4e0_b.jpg)
This post brought to you by the letter F and the number 4.
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Found this unclimbed streak. Going to load it up with bolts.
Like many of your other recent posts - you are a few years late :yesnod: :lol:
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it will never go
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I think u might be able to get it though?
;D
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I will bolt it!!!
I see 3 lines!
Just say when Munge and I will Be there wil BLL.
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I couldn't help but stop and admire this view yesterday on our way out - Balconies, Smiling Simian and Tugboat (toot toot).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4851/44712202970_492c3a631e_z.jpg)
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Brad belays as waldo scales the final 5th class section on Prune Pinnacle's Regular Route - exactly one year from the day clink and I established the route.
Stay frosty and Regular my friends :lol:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7908/46505343982_3eee2dc361_z.jpg)
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Adventurous, bold, generous, patient and fun-loving.
The dude abides.
Thanks for a great last day of climbing in 2018 dude. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7877/46557393651_fa815f5567_z.jpg)
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Adventurous, bold, generous, patient and fun-loving.
The dude abides.
Thanks for a great last day of climbing in 2018 dude. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7877/46557393651_fa815f5567_z.jpg)
He also endures.
Cold, cold camping. Massive pack-weights on brushy approaches. Climbing obscure junk. And all with a smile.
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Brad belays as waldo scales the final 5th class section on Prune Pinnacle's Regular Route - exactly one year from the day clink and I established the route.
Stay frosty and Regular my friends :lol:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7908/46505343982_3eee2dc361_z.jpg)
Stay regular? Not a problem. Prune must be the salmonella of crags.
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Prune must be the salmonella of crags.
:)
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Inverted Jug 5.9 *
Description coming. Overhung/undercut on three sides, 45 feet high. When you're standing on top of it you can feel it sway in the wind :o ::)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7874/31623342847_4a0c9f645b_c.jpg)
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It was good to watch others climb on Prune Pinnacle on the 30th. I had done it before, so I knew what was involved - a light touch on surfaces keeps most of the surfaces intact. I was not there long enough to get the two newer climbers impressions of the route and the wild rappel. I enjoyed climbing two routes on Proclamation Pinnacle with JC. One of which probably has not been done in years and is in need of a better summit rappel anchor and another which is truly "birth canal" climbing - only one bolt needed because there is nowhere to fall but get stuck in a squeeze chimney.
briham89 and I had the entire Tourist Trap to ourselves in the morning on Sunday. How often does that happen on a weekend (except during a period of imposed government shutdown)? I had to tighten up the second bolt on "Thrill Hammer", which had already been sponsor-replaced by ASCA, since it was loose. I had a campground reservation for many days, so was allowed to stay when others were kept out by the park service law enforcement officer who let me out when I had to finally leave on the 31th.
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Something green for St. Patty's Day.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4616/39635912781_8e119d24bd_z.jpg)
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I couldn't help but stop and admire this view yesterday on our way out - Balconies, Smiling Simian and Tugboat (toot toot).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4851/44712202970_492c3a631e_z.jpg)
What a dump, yah fart and rocks come off.
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Sweet Jeebus, I used to climb at Pinns!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4438/37456219565_feb79e0418_o.jpg)
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Jimminy christmas!
There's photographic evidence of me leading that upper pitch!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4386/37313616731_43958af172_o.jpg)
pockets and nuts
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/4858/45037712025_de3dc6e0b6_c.jpg)
Grain Shark - Chumlee 5.8
Let's see who notices grain and crud mixed in with the mud n crud.
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1st pic is p3 of Condor Condiment?
That Hills day was fun. Good times.
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1st pic is p3 of Condor Condiment?
That Hills day was fun. Good times.
You win the prize!
yep, is that the last pitch or second to last? I think second to last. The last traverses the top to the anchor, iirc.
Hills is back open again, fwiw in the heat of summer.
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You win the prize!
yep, is that the last pitch or second to last? I think second to last. The last traverses the top to the anchor, iirc.
Don Pardo - tell him what he won!
Yep - It's the second to last (aka the 3rd of 4 pitches). I did that route with Jim and Bill Mac and got to lead pitches 2 and 4.
Amazing route that stays shady and desperately needs bolts replaced.
Hills is back open again, fwiw in the heat of summer.
So is Pinns - actually it was never completely closed - just a PITA to go there (the east side at least).
If I'm curious about the Hills I just look at Pinns temps (they are usually about the same in those 2 places).
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Amazing route that stays shady and desperately needs bolts replaced.
Agreed. When we gonna do that?
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Agreed. When we gonna do that?
I agree that it needs rebolting soooo badly. Many or most of the bolts are 5/16 inch buttonheads that are just over an inch into the rock. I wonder if they'd actually hold a lead fall. It's great to see people who historically will go there during heat both interested in getting to it (at least I think that's what I'm seeing).
And momentum in the park is toward opening up. You two live in more urban counties than I do, but aren't they opening up too?
We went in for day-use on the West Side last Friday and it worked just fine (the gate is open 7:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.). I think the East Side is now open for day use too.
But one glitch: that part of the High Peaks Trail is still closed, with multiple signs at the junctions that bear strong warnings not to pass. I think the Park is worried about Covid spreading from hands to the handrails at the Steep and Narrows to other hands. I haven't looked on the Park's web site, but I'm probably repeating what's there already.
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I broke a hold and took a clean fall on one of those bolts. Don't remember which one.
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I broke a hold and took a clean fall on one of those bolts. Don't remember which one.
That one DEFINITELY wouldn't hold a fall now. :P
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We went in for day-use on the West Side last Friday and it worked just fine (the gate is open 7:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.). I think the East Side is now open for day use too.
Inconceivable! It's not Pinnacles Season … :-\ ??? ??? :o ;D
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Inconceivable! It's not Pinnacles Season … :-\ ??? ??? :o ;D
True. But temps were really low and I had just one more thing to get done to end the season.
And I climbed at Pinnacles in June once before - June of 2008, the weekend of the first Rock Rendezvous (the first one - put on by the Park Service as part of the 100th anniversary events).
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Ha Brad, I remember that day climbing. I was lucky enough to get a belay from Jim on his Bandits in Bondage route.
That as a fun day.
And not too hot either.
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This thread is dead to me without more pics! 8) >:D ;D
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This thread is dead to me without more pics! 8) >:D ;D
Whine, wine, and (another glass of) wine:
Little Robby in some high peaks, more than half of his lifetime ago:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50035582871_3c08f55737_c.jpg)
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What??? Mungie was an Alpinist? I thought he was a Big Waller.
Keep them coming.
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Conness! Amazing route! Thx BY for having the forethought to have Ray take a pic!
F4.... There was Mt Dana baby! Col for lyfe! Lol
Alpinism has “objective hazards” that I’m not fond of.
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My virgin eyes!!!
Alpinist all along
Let me know when you are up for some alpine stuff.
Hikes I swear.
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I broke a hold and took a clean fall on one of those bolts. Don't remember which one.
5/16ths bolts? As Jack would say: "Bomber."
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Bolts okay.
I remember almost falling in the bolt ladder pitch.
I was screaming fallling, falling, but with my cat like reflexes, I rebalanced.
Mr mud was belaying so I did not get jerked off.
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Bolts okay.
I remember almost falling in the bolt ladder pitch.
I was screaming fallling, falling, but with my cat like reflexes, I rebalanced.
Mr mud was belaying so I did not get jerked off.
I'm glad Mr Mud didn't jerk you off.
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Nice one Brad!
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Midas touch
8)
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Dennis has literally turned around and jumped at me from above. I instantly reacted by trying to push him off, but he had the momentum and we ended up bear hugging with my face in his chest. I kept fighting.
Mr mud was belaying so I did not get jerked off.
I'm glad Mr Mud didn't jerk you off.
Jumping, bear hugging, momentum, fighting, getting jerked off.
Hmmmm...
Sounds like we need to snooze this thread before things get too out of hand.
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How about pictures!!!! Of climbing, not of the snuggle brothers. On TOPIC people ON TOPIC!!!!! :o 8)
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Doesn't everyone get friendly at belays? Isn't that why we tie into each other?
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How about pictures!!!!
Doesn't everyone get friendly at belays? Isn't that why we tie into each other?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4425/37212444175_50328dc6cf_z.jpg)
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I bet you don’t have any pics of climbing on Pinns rock!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/4425/37212444175_50328dc6cf_z.jpg)
Where's the hug?
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I need a hug.
Geoff told me to stop reading books and buy a treadmill.
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Where's the hug?
They were locked in an embrace just moments before the picture was taken - then they did a trust fall simultaneously.
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Beautiful.
Love is love, right?
Crud is crud
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read a book on a tradmill
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This thread needs a monitor.
Do you even know what the standards are?
http://www.boldering.com/index.php
http://0friction.com/
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What about Californiabouldering.com
Better ratings and problem descriptions.
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Had to let the site go. I wasn't going to be able to make time for what it could have been. Was bummed this one gal didn't follow up on it. Would have transferred ownership with a promise to make something cool out of it.
ION, is this me?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4452/37313605631_9bf04e3cfa_c.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/4390/37313620311_9fb82287df_c.jpg)
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^^^
Hard to recognize for sure, but did I do that route with you?
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The way it is posted it looks like some kind of nose route.
Good thing you didn't have a bat in the cave!
I rotated it 180 degrees and it looks right.
I don't recognize those flakes but Pinnacles and California are full of them.
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Very hard to guess as we can’t see Mungies hair length.
It can’t be the great condor chimney, as Mungie helmet looks modern.
Can’t be SODW, as that chimney is smooth.
I’d climb it.
Keep them coming!
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^^^
Hard to recognize for sure, but did I do that route with you?
VVV yes, there was a grand total of one good hold on that climb. ATDS4sure! Needful? Needless? Need a therapist to climb at Pinns?
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there was a grand total of one good hold on that climb. ATDS4sure! Needful? Needless? Need a therapist to climb at Pinns?
There's a reason I didn't recognize that nasty, crumblebum chimney.
I redacted all those climbs from my guidebook with permanent black marker and the notation So What!
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Oh yes. I crossed that route out in my book too. With an orange highlighter ;)
There's a lot less loose rock on it since Munge and my little adventure. But what is a "lot" when the whole thing seems a rubble pile?
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I do not like this rotten rock.
I do not like choss in my sock.
I do not like to ski on scree.
I do prefer sta-bil-it-eeeee.
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those needful climbs are timeless classics
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those needful climbs are timeless classics
As are you my friend, as are you....
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yeah, lol
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I do not like this rotten rock.
I do not like choss in my sock.
I do not like to ski on scree.
I do prefer sta-bil-it-eeeee.
Dr. Choss books are my favorite mud tales!
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Dr. Choss books are my favorite mud tales!
I do not like choss in the heat.
I do not like my swelling feet.
I do not like baked lichen smell.
I do not like to bolt and tell.
I do not like old routes with mank.
I do not like hard routes that crank.
I do not like those rap bolt thugs.
I like steep rock with nice big jugs.
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Who says.
I agree
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I do not like choss in the heat.
I do not like my swelling feet.
I do not like baked lichen smell.
I do not like to bolt and tell.
I do not like old routes with mank.
I do not like hard routes that crank.
I do not like those rap bolt thugs.
I like steep rock with nice big jugs.
I do not like my shoes too tight.
I do not like to climb at night.
I do not like that stinking chalk.
I do not like to climb and talk.
I like to lead and like to drill.
Sometimes the climb's a bitter pill.
I like to find the shady crags.
I like a friend that never brags.
My favorite days are short and fun.
Sometimes my phrase is one and done.
I like to bolt the water streaks.
Outside that path produces shrieks.
I like that grayish bullet rock
The mossy stuff can also shock
I hang on knobs when I can't stance
I laugh when beano pees her pants.
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I like to move it.
-
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That version is totally inappropriate.
-
That version is totally inappropriate.
Twerking vs tweening
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Focus, focus please!!
Back to climbing pictures.
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Do you like
green eggs and ham?
-
I do SAM I AM!!
-
Do you like
green eggs and ham?
I would not eat them in the park
I would not eat them after dark
I would not eat them on a climb
I would not eat them any time
I would not eat them on a stance
I would not eat them in short pants
I would not eat them on a bluff
I would not could not eat that stuff
I would not eat them in your camp
I would not eat them on a ramp
I would not eat them in a crack
I would not eat them off my rack
I will not eat green eggs and ham
I do not like them Sam I am
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Would you eat them in the the buff?
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Would you eat them in the the buff?
I would not eat them in the buff
I would not eat them on the tuff
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OK, back to climbing pictures. Have you seen the new posters available at the Visitors' center:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50119814247_1310616d9b_b.jpg)
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-cUi4Pnacf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
(Thanks for including me in your masterpiece John)
And for the record, you should eat green eggs and ham no matter what. Someone made those eggs for you. Do you cook? How many times a day do you eat? That food's got to come from somewhere. Someone worked a job to pay for that food and what, you're just not going to eat it! ?
hahahha I have descended quickly into cruddy middle aged parenting.
Wait, is this a climbing message board? Where am I?
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I cant believe that account has 211k followers. I get the sarcastic irony but most of the posts are just not that funny. Now Catatonic Youth account is funny....
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I love it.
We need more influencers making disparaging remarks about Pinns and encouraging people to go elsewhere.
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So the story with the instagram account is -- they took actual review online review comments about the parks, and made them into sarcastic artworks. It's not actually available at the visitors' center. Don't believe everything you read. The virus is a hoax.
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Its amazing the things people do for work these days. Guess it beats working at the in n out.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e56b59uZblmwRgG1WcrwYJPas_aT-ETtvxwAqc-T_1aQZ2vDUxv838oDnSVimmVnd9y8z8cFCNTFqAMgaGG_hfa_9LCotoE2Y2k1ZxrKe4NRwsei3fBzDnTWNHO_93baAse7CZJTvY6zK3prvWDz5d=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fKPxJXGZ1bZ0xm-Bedpwiw_uL2iUWIgV6Y8tjNoWANoubwHsJVkQTbnzYJh--_LoZtwzfgZbXSpL4IzQa3WgtkR08tC7Az2b7UyfaHrO2RP31mkpVSymgEeHXyUQp3tGFR_9WFWwj9KJiAgmRFPPOE=w502-h487-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eOHyDL7poEXtNYvbu2PQZDwNhzfpzjZcJRfa6QAC0RBGhPufxMQC7xniXPcU466-llr9a-nyxhO3F0ZrqXxcnueSFkFSDEdWeoB5iL-QUWyj_snJNZcL-GsQcpr9DVLaxsyoqKd1unjzbCL9XV5CCM=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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8)
-
PO removal?
Nope.
Autumn Leaves
-
JC said PO, he, he, he
-
Blast from the past...2009. Jacob belaying me on Resurrection wall.
This picture will be used to inspire me to train!!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/Ressurection-Wall09/i-FHkzL4N/0/6f972d56/X2/DSCF4706-X2.jpg)
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Mr Mud atop Hook and Drill, 2004?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles/i-nQcTNn6/0/f6babc32/M/P1010028-M.jpg)
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A friend told me that Ball Pinnacle was NOT 5.6 any more. And I didn't like the description in the current book. So Waldo was kind enough to meet me at the base at 3:00 for a little "research."
Yuk! not a good route. Both of us had forgotten just how loose and not-interesting the route is. And the boulder-problem crux? Well, I tried it in my approach shoes, after which I put on my climbing shoes. That move is 5.7 or harder. Very counterintuitive.
And then we stumbled around in the bushes and dark, working our way out the direct way.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50641001308_1b0be00c4f_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50641834672_fd05365a40_c.jpg)
Thanks again Bob! I promise (sort of) that not all the "research projects" will be crap.
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Mr Mud atop Hook and Drill, 2004?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/Pinnacles/i-nQcTNn6/0/f6babc32/O/P1010028.jpg)
Hey Factor, can you shrink your shot please?
And isn't that our illustrious leader on Los Banditos?
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Image fixed to bring him down to a normal size.
And isn't that our illustrious leader on Los Banditos?
Nope, it was at the top of the Balconies, getting ready to rappel down Hook and Drill. I remember this trip as I get my ass handed to me on Lava Falls. So Mr Mud had to take over and lead the 1st pitch. Later, we rappelled down on the Hook and Drill anchors so he could start replacing bolts on the climb.
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Geezus. No more shirtless shots please. Things you can't unsee. :yikes:
At least with the big version you can stop scrolling over before it is too late.
Hammack said the overhang on Ball was difficult but gave no actual rating.
Roper had it at 5.7
Richards downgraded it to 5.6
Doubt there has been anybody on it since Kat and I did the schweaty ascent in July of 2013.
We kept our shirts on.
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^^^
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1896.msg23289#msg23289
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All must..bow before the mud master....
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All must..bow before the mud master....
Or shield their eyes when they see a caption at the top.
Send him some pasties with tassels or tinsel for Christmas.
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JC we missed seeing you up at the High Peaks on Sunday or at least in the parking lot.
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Damn, that trip report is so detailed that I may have been able to skip the trip... if I'd searched it out first.
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JC we missed seeing you up at the High Peaks on Sunday or at least in the parking lot.
Yep - we miss seeing you and the rest of the gang too.
It was really good to see Noal a couple weeks ago.
We tend to avoid weekends whenever possible.
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Damn, that trip report is so detailed that I may have been able to skip the trip... if I'd searched it out first.
I tried a search but it doesn't seem to find anything that was posted before the forum was upgraded.
I knew the date we climbed the route so I just went back through my posts - it was a quick find.
I didn't have the old guidebooks back then either - so it was fun to look through that stuff.
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I didn't have the old guidebooks back then either - so it was fun to look through that stuff.
They aren't very helpful. Basically, "start here and climb to the top" kind of stuff.
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I knew the date we climbed the route so I just went back through my posts - it was a quick find.
I didn't have the old guidebooks back then either - so it was fun to look through that stuff.
I looked through my musty journals and found that I climbed Ball on January 24th, 1981. I'm pretty sure Sunday was my second visit. I appreciate Brad's patience. I got his new rope into a rare tangle on the second rappel and thus insured that we made good use of the moonlight.
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^^^
Excellent use of the moonlight.
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Some shots from Sunday......in the sun, no moonlight
James on the 5.5 topping out:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/PinnaclesNovember20/i-XdMxQGw/0/132bcedd/X2/P1040097-X2.jpg)
A guy Pete (teacher from Salinas) rope soloing. He had climbed alot in the Monument. He talked about rope soloing Bills Bad Bolts and Mr Mud getting a nice shot of him.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/PinnaclesNovember20/i-6R2Ts8q/0/4e9b0f0c/X2/P1040115-X2.jpg)
James topping out on Burgundy Dome Rappel Route. Can holds stop breaking on this route....5.7 sheesh
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Climbing/PinnaclesNovember20/i-pw54tFb/0/29d4bd4c/X2/P1040084-X2.jpg)
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^^^
How can his left shoulder/arm do that?!
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To be young and bend-able again.
Notice the shades? Those are my REVO Classics. He loves them.
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Burgundy Dome was my first 5.7 and Piglet my first 5.8 (leads).
I still remember that day - it was the day we met you and squiddo - even though we had no idea who you were. :lol:
Where is the obligatory shot of Piglet?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f4UHcXa3puCC66AYpDxXeUlF5tbE4GtETkPT4xTx4mgMON4W1a8-_7q8T6mAiIgXOPWIkDbAoEzL6YHvpU_Lq01brotu-4h3lJ-iezgOfQ6kYfZb63xy-FSftqBYLGXGVejxWG8REX3nvY_9n7zs9n=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Yeah, I remember that day as well.
Damn, I did the route in my approach shoes.
Yeah, I regret not saying I was Brad Young and squiddo was Steve Dawson.....
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Send him some pasties with tassels or tinsel for Christmas.
special viewings only
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Is the east side entrance open?
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Is the east side entrance open?
Yep. Both entrances are open but the visitors centers are not.
No fees.
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From the Fool on the Hill
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f5B6hXGu4wGWoxtzf5yIIPeeGaFG7lnFJO_OSpi9OxX6vPQMd5EikYYJbMiYj2D-p3S7Nmrh1ZbMRuIBl8heYYaUhRhMkFQ8qoMVBZderF9pO72Ik5WjyjSjFz1gKZ1Pbz07jDy21-H-PPXSW0wMWe=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Looks nice
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Yeah, I remember that day as well.
Damn, I did the route in my approach shoes.
Yeah, I regret not saying I was Brad Young and squiddo was Steve Dawson.....
;D :D ;D ;)
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nice
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here u go. this is my new project, to document pinnalces climbs via time lapse....
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that was a first
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Love the time lapse :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
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Goal is to shoot more, show Clink what he is missing
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Goal is to shoot more, show Clink what he is missing
He'd have to be looking at the site for that to work.
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Upper Flumes
(https://live.staticflickr.com/8612/16207599145_f0af889e8b_b.jpg)
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Now there is a man who knows what to wear when being photographed. Nice pic.
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thx, here's some more from those fun times...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/8630/16119779399_fd56c70516_b.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/8672/15604471383_2f3121c802_b.jpg)
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and a personal favorite...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7353/16173660720_eac9482cfd_b.jpg)
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Nice Pics
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Thx. Good action plus great location plus good light equals good pics.
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Not bad there Mungie, maybe a bit more tilt?
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Put a Bern on it
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50869105761_7cd2e498e7_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50868388138_2a23057347_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50868388153_a2edf9c3c6_b.jpg)
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Enough already with the Larry David Memes!
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Last Sunday High Peaks Tour
-----------------------------------
Dragged the foot Dr. out from Corralitos and we got in a nice tour of High peaks. Started up by the Sponge, Left Side and Reg. Route, moved to Burgundy Dome - Rappel Route, before heading over to Spike's peak to sample Abuela Cochinita and Poached Pig. To round off the day, we checked out Tuff dome and H&L, before catching the sunset on top of Photographer's delight.
also, new to the forum here, but have been lurking & learning on here for a bit, ever since JC told me about it. Finally created an account.
~GS (Corralitos)
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Yesterday were going in reverse, starting at Dragonfly dome....little javelina was tempting, but I knew better that the rock would sap the warmth out of them....which was what happened on abuela.
Oddly I even found an iPhone 8 dropped off the condor walk way..
Beanolar, nice edits....have at them. Crazy,
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Beanolar, nice edits....have at them. Crazy,
Geezus - don't encourage her!
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slippery little suckers those politican holds! :)
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;) :) :)
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Beanolar, how old is the kid?
It goes fast as I can remember when James was pretty small and he used to sort my gear.
Now he is almost my height, climbs 5.9 and still sorts my gear.
Keep up the editing, we have 2weeks of suffering until the rock dries out.
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Thanks for the encouragement. It's nice to know that SOME OF US appreciate fine crud art. Like JC and F4.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50885371252_f9b1ca5dd4_t.jpg)(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50885371272_5687ba5834_t.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50884546983_df6c1b659d_b.jpg)
Kim's growing like a weed! Haven't endured a trip to pinns in a while, will need to get her out once things dry out. We are all crawling the walls a bit in the rain!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50885268081_a1782fd10f_z.jpg)
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Yeah you feed them and they grow.
Next thing you ask where did all the TP go?
At least no bolts are hurt
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It's nice to know that SOME OF US appreciate fine crud art. Like JC and F4.
DIE!
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Well I certainly would die if i climbed on any of these bolts!!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50884881248_153058ea93_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50885705867_b2c5d1b651_c.jpg)
TP goes so fast. So does food. I'm so tired of cooking!!!
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Single quarter inch allen screw anchor on yet another Pinnacles "found" route.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fdHKpnvi-LweW7_p6OSfDMVz4yq2rUMn_XxeH8nrfD9Lj5FjMbtmy6gb9LEMxrQfKN_ngh2JeMHfE-6eO3suqubtsiKxFk9UPP2MjTx8mUpuyNYBMr-5B3iUa0kVgmF7WDLIOSNsaWZIKnkNjvyXWc=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Single quarter inch allen screw anchor on yet another Pinnacles "found" route.
Bomber, 9 out 10 Pinns climbers would clip.
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^^^
Show him a photo of the new anchor (he'd clip it for sure).
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I love those pop_top hangers. Totally bommer.
I fondly remember clipping those on snake dike before it was rebolted.
Save the hanger for me.
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Save the hanger for me.
Left for the sake of history.
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Just found several hundred slides, mostly from late 60's-early 70's of the Pinns. Climbing, rescues, scenics, snow, floods(3' deep over the dam and the river crossing to the old group camp about 5' deep), dead bodies...etc. Might start scanning a few.
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^^^
"Might" doesn't hack it.
You've got a very, very interested audience here. GET ON IT!
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I am a busy, busy man...:) I need to retire.
In the meantime, here are the two pages from that era that have been floating around on my site for a few years.
https://www.jodylangfordphotography.com/pinnacles-nm-60-s-and-70-s
https://www.jodylangfordphotography.com/pinnacles-nm-60-s-and-70-s-page-2
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I am a busy, busy man...:) I need to retire.
I highly recommend it. Working is for suckers! :yesnod: :lol: :prrr: :ciappa:
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P.S. - Love those hard hats :ihih:
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I am a busy, busy man...:) I need to retire.
Hold it, you are retired aren't you?
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Hold it, you are retired aren't you?
Yes...since 2015, I just seem to be busier than ever. I guess I should have said I need to retire AGAIN.
Just busy with family stuff, new granddaughter, ranch work, etc.
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I highly recommend it. Working is for suckers! :yesnod: :lol: :prrr: :ciappa:
Being retired is great! Highly recommended.
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Reservoir spillway-1969(yours truly at the rail)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=766;image)
West Fork Chalone Creek near what is now the Old Pinnacles Parking Lot-1973
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=768;image)
West Fork Chalone Creek. Bulldozer rescuing people trapped in the old Group Campground-1973
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=770;image)
Reservoir-1969
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=772;image)
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^^^
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2941.0
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I thought that is what the "attachment" option was for. Fixed them. I don't do google or flikr. Fixed them a different way in about 30 seconds. :)
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I thought that is what the "attachment" option was for. Fixed them. I don't do google or flikr. Fixed them a different way in about 30 seconds. :)
If you intended to insert attachments, you can refer to this thread: http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1880.0 . There are other tips and tricks stickies on that board too.
I just did a quick test, the feature does still work. The main thing is to reduce the size before uploading, and the attachment is only viewable to logged in users.
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^^^^
Exactly what I did before JC posted. They looked exactly like your "test" but apparently that was wrong.
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^^^^
Exactly what I did before JC posted. They looked exactly like your "test" but apparently that was wrong.
Sorry Jody - I was just trying to help.
The attachment function only posts a thumbnail that has to be downloaded to be viewed properly.
You can sign up for Flikr for free but limited to 1000 pics - Google is free and unlimited.
I downloaded your pictures last night and looked at them - Wow!
I don't see your pictures now.
Not sure what you changed but it isn't working at all now.
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^^^^
Exactly what I did before JC posted. They looked exactly like your "test" but apparently that was wrong.
Please check the instruction thread again as I added more information there that might help you.
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Looks like you figured it out Jody - those are great!
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Yeah, I didn't want to open accounts somewhere so mudworm having that other thread as an image dump was a great idea. About a year ago I posted briefly on another forum powered by Simple machines using this same format and their "attachments" were displayed automatically as 600 pixels rather than thumbnails. I thought these would display the same way.
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Creek by our house, Jan 1974.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=774;image)
Our house from above the upper parking lot, Mar 1973.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=776;image)
Our house, Jan 1974.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=778;image)
Reservoir, Jan 1974.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1880.0;attach=780;image)
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Nice shots.
It almost seems like you miss the place a little?
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Life was sure simpler back then...and I have great memories of my parents there in better times.
Perfect place to grow up, that's for sure.
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One of your own?
P.S. Sheesh, the grainy photo tells me I need to upgrade my phone to a more modern one. It was not even cropped and blown up.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZSxDLSY.jpg)
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Maybe the resolution was just set too low. I have a $150 motorola phone that takes great pictures...but if the resolution is set low(many phones the default setting is lo res for ease of photo messaging and texting) the quality is not so great. What phone do you have?
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Thanks Jody. I have iPhone 7, but this most likely is just user incompetence. I think I might have zoomed too much on my phone before taking the photo from where I happened to be standing. A real photographer would have moved herself to a better position, closer and higher.
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Do you use the cloud for photo storage? I have heard that when using the cloud the phone only retains a thumbnail and that might be your issue. If it does end up being the phone, get a $150 Motorola like mine. :)
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It might also be imgur -- the free image publishing/sharing service I use. Not sure, but I'm not bothered enough to investigate. I hope everyone else's photos now look even better than before since I provide the supply of crappy photos (crappy in photo quality, not in the climber model).
$150 is too expensive. My next eligible upgrade is coming up in May (once every two years). I always go with the cheapest option. I once got one for free, and last time was $50. So, My next phone might just be an iPhone 7s. Woohoo!
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It might also be imgur -- the free image publishing/sharing service I use. Not sure, but I'm not bothered enough to investigate. I hope everyone else's photos now look even better than before since I provide the supply of crappy photos (crappy in photo quality, not in the climber model).
$150 is too expensive. My next eligible upgrade is coming up in May (once every two years). I always go with the cheapest option. I once got one for free, and last time was $50. So, My next phone might just be an iPhone 7s. Woohoo!
Ah, another cheapskate, just like me! I say it is a $150 phone...retail. I paid not a cent for it. Talked them into the freebie since I am a long time customer.
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Found this old vid of pinnacles in the winter. That's JC narrating.
Watch till the end - the sound of the sink hole forming (@7:30) is incredible!
https://youtu.be/YVvpRlhyjCY?t=135 (https://youtu.be/YVvpRlhyjCY?t=135)
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Didn't see the Pinnacles anywhere in that video.
Interesting how many people in that video were absolute morons...let's stand here inches from the landslide while standing directly beneath a hillside with the same geological composition...no chance of that going too.
I didn't see a smart person anywhere in that video.
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Didn't see the Pinnacles anywhere in that video.
Beanolar has quite the imagination. Because Pinnacles is part of the earth, then all and anywhere on the earth may be considered Pinnacles. It is a quite non-inclusive way of thinking. Their landslide is my landslide, their fear is mine, so we help others in times of difficulty and disaster, share joy when others benefit or achieve aspirations. Empathy.
Imagine if this way of thinking became contagious. Flyswatters and Drano could be stored in empty gun safes, Yemen, could be a family friendly, vacation destination and kids could go trick or treating all over Chicago!
Or, she could have just been yanking our chains.
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^^^
Your quoting skills match your picture posting skills.
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I know. Couldn't unsuck it.
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Glad you watched the video. Thanks for the deep reflections, clink.
We are all one big mudslide, waiting to happen.
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Like you dream Clink. There is so much beautiful country out there that would be wonderful to visit and or play in, if people could just get along.
Didn't see the Pinnacles anywhere in that video.
Beanolar has quite the imagination. Because Pinnacles is part of the earth, then all and anywhere on the earth may be considered Pinnacles. It is a quite non-inclusive way of thinking. Their landslide is my landslide, their fear is mine, so we help others in times of difficulty and disaster, share joy when others benefit or achieve aspirations. Empathy.
Imagine if this way of thinking became contagious. Flyswatters and Drano could be stored in empty gun safes, Yemen, could be a family friendly, vacation destination and kids could go trick or treating all over Chicago!
Or, she could have just been yanking our chains.
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More great route potential at pinnacles
Cant believe theres no bolts yet
Some exciting overhangs, and "water chutes" with mounds of loose rock below. Classic!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51140817701_b065e7a872_k.jpg)
The reservoir's looking great this time of year
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dibs
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More great route potential at pinnacles
Cant believe theres no bolts yet
Some exciting overhangs, and "water chutes" with mounds of loose rock below. Classic!
The reservoir's looking great this time of year
You Can't Fool MoM.
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legit bouldering can be had on the 'pinnacles mountain-island' otherwise known as Maui. Silversword parking on Haleakala has a Mungie Teva-only FA on it.
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Ooooo nice! I'm afraid to touch any rock over here. Seems too sharp or crumbly. Gtg back to the motherland (pinns) before it cooks for the summer
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cooks for the summer
This may or may not happen.
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Cooks aren't climbing in Pinns anymore? I'm so confused.
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Say mungie, them cooks are retired folk.
Maybe they are planning retiree stuff like walking the wharf , sitting on a bench feeding birds.
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Back in 2015, when people used to take pics and post them in the weekly favorite thread.
Pics or invalid.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/8576/16361037465_0e2719154a_c.jpg)
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nice
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You misspelled “die” ;)
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DIE
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/4440/37313615661_bd3e04a2d3_o.jpg)
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Great day out at Pinns!
Reservoir's looking good this time of year
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51695004705_a79497328d_b.jpg)
Flumes routes seem to have gotten more difficult
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51694792039_55cf165212_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51694116671_e99ccbfccd_k.jpg)
Look how close these bolts are - awesome!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693322717_8fa6adafda_k.jpg)
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Fantastic first photo!
As to the last one? I was under the impression that you weren't an aid climber.
Today I think I will just Grin and Bear It. And then look at adding a lead bolt to a route to replace a tied off tree which looks like it's about to fail, at that point of protection. At the specific request of the first ascent party (who now lives in Colorado and can't get to it).
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^^^
Good luck...we're all counting on you...
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"Reservoir's looking good this time of year"
Cool pic, and you must have grown a hundred meters taller since seeing you last.
"Today I think I will just Grin and Bear It.'
Still so Young and Restless.
"Good luck...we're all counting on you..."
What happens when you get to twenty?
Now to call JC for a posting tutorial.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVmZqU5BJM4PDXZ6dpVKOfgYQrH1oJ5X4bfBRcKpPXKoFQ2WcGWvtVgIEiHYooImnQgee346Ie_7OEXUXH-SVmWzgSNNFKsbkbRLZ31tmGvzaul57t7hgTZurpkvC0tl88jYGIyc92IQD0LAmccR6zW=w812-h609-no?authuser=0)
Porky in front of the water tower on main street in downtown Parkfield.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S-az7NNa3-nLKxl9rx6zOloRaxObdcBAPWXH5yKpm7-EHGBdEmG_9_-auMhBMll026S4UPjnppZu3drM6RgLjTzZLYNyxa0R0Y7aDCbn2qjilbU7gITuOoeEFsg-6YtdmCpWe4eazBZboXKGtMXMDGxWyP1FPXxt_ubB6206ysBXD6PWPzjLoIh6SpOESmrgebRXOZmuh1dhEV9TM3IpgtJuMKlS9PrVPLpNsjnrnUdF24OkNESN4flh5TnwuHNGWQ6GOlj2qY10pPx8XF7cEXPkLgIT8yycqUalfANceAqPmOxECNcelg_oI2rQ_NT9VjaCmMQIqGuXsITOhSajDurxb-t0z_umisTzbwQWeKPO-jyqwzb_w_LFN6SQkoBAdtGnGyO7LMYYuz8GlqMR2IepcavtYZ31jdHfvNpvscVoSQTWhs1XAYCIoz5mDI0h605HvcNZVQ-HQ4ZwETbbnX-qBB4GBu5Q-s6oZV4hp7AzO73kbQ6ZHxMNgo5FoMH8QiSdzE6sG8SWFyKNFmDs-bJWwK4ZrwgNRBx84StlKX8lDELcONhYmFZ4yin4OeD7SIO60Wwfcv76FO46iXbVmuv6Iux9ELRZnBgbwrXtayZaYm1krF5EnicqwD3NYWiWYcEQvZ6zDM51xQNUITCreK3mNG94PXHp1MOfNEX1KxmsANePE8j89uKoViMRzUiHBdwA3TfY54XIbWRXkCZHSXj0=w850-h637-no?authuser=0)
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(https://lh3.google.com/pw/AM-JKLUkCdjrmbUT1owqKEWiV3v7oToNUrhVIdFb3S0Feshjw57wWwamTQzy7Hs_egMs2111B_1z6ykCAFwyM57ridPp5T-bJ7A=w479-h637-no?authuser=0)
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(https://lh3.google.com/pw/AM-JKLWrzBv2XWlUXI9ZZrJqz7MfN4kdbt0IAFY7JXZER5HQyioVhnN1FayzT8aGkhHgwcuc0biN2-YCJo8PWIXqSRDhOgWXNWc=w479-h637-no?authuser=0)
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The kid grew a lot in three years. The first pic was pre-covid the next two from September this year.
My apologies for taking so long to figure out how to post pics.
Thanks JC, hope you win the battle of the brush and weeds!
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QlIXgQ3txHCpw3VkjntqDdEF5vpH_6O3g3ICCK2ULsLbroylJU7ymeJRuI-ohDSVCyKpSHwwmgbE8kR0UAAlQEqm3eMg0gdXs05yqM6oAI0QEzQuaERCmF6Q9F6Z7qFv8KUed4CQ9Lj7vE35XEkzNUj-R_qQP6Nzu15BeKNUIlb4g8rVIFG2uQtWlbG5NNh20p-ff95FEPAhoiRHKOnHIK7XvVCI_0lMD0LO4jgX43782QEI6G2TdiB_E52hPtiuGXAhgtM66ABN6XKToUQnr4IUxvf_Ph4F13oWBfVG_HXfv39uyOWdSuV5h-NJ3WbqbxmIoK_BqtEclU7r2iK8hi2PD5ARFxCweVLDCruDNdJrUvpwngiTXjI6FdmXK40ceFsi0jrBCtF4nhiF0ksrwYHhUqKF2VAuJI4eZGbpiSknTC-0YpvFuls0V7sRdgpfOtH9JjSPH0lsuiHPcblDkUUkHnF38OSyYSUNGd8nbKobgju0Dwyk96dqTVTTdtinxN3RF-D3iEa0NijWIzlQbQTTvoeCF9IcTl5D71SgJV1-HYSbeRUu_Bxr0xHZc3vHdaIkW9IOmIrVgvLhTpQxOLR5XhuOi8zRwgdkcB9cmghAOtuQg1ktDxUbBuJNIsIXP4k-Ef2RUKBL21JkWWL2nqQqvUaqgwj8q-HhV46LyQHuwzR2BLumlT7LL1SzcyeJ1RU_HVx_zdvVklN4HZxHXSlLzg=w479-h637-no?authuser=0)
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_phCIBk1E1lb1LehyEw_FHRI8LgOAZ_nLfUNoRQ2w0XmhLOYZQTe27a-IuzFxPUuU0jgASFJ_X2ZWYo3bjsIcE-e7-InarFEMZZRz-vvZuS0wjqA1wf5BozPekyRbI3S_iOqoSfnCHhYMeJ3QxXmRXFtd7qXXzpLSi0_8Fr1vLF8RaxIHJpi3cHNtUU9MEgnXrCp0XmJNjGxyLKTBau96W_9l9WvYA5OUkS1zMeX6l6Tyz1HmHW9T_y0pI-sOAwGsSuqbEwSZBSK4naUofGZ8_GGVmM-j_ly1LR_tZK-OmMgrblIDeXpdPl1mqPXc85V2Rdh-8Q0OPMC_n8eTvU8psVxFI1KNKeQQrsc9d0jBn6bEeIlKDFU5oZeXgKb59hGQRUvP8trLSKB983HMCUfPnQ2t0iCH_KX16hYLeILp7DEGLhlJUyMxO4dIdInUMUJt_vc6c8oUZM3pQLNdPoRV5k4dqSoWmtaV2_5AcuIrww5iIcALYmEoNBMAGabJY7b0FZGWIt9pa_eqrN0VnTQlLG4Vx3gUpLn0GmnOsNsLj60H9c6g65DH3ioRc-CL2u7qMKTLhfJvIAvw62xCrUlIUEOhW9MEgvp71PYblENvLMS7rBqTSpKfDsf6UGjNY5o5I0mn2E8SNamVmxxymKeWi2vBSG0mab1JqczmsMsH08BlGIMf99ANu4fW8Hcs-miLtFrbHisv4bLuiq4GbDCJAsDGQ=w850-h637-no?authuser=0)
A little bit of bouldering around Santa Barbara with Ali and Johnny
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clink - the only picture I see on Google Chrome (the browser I always use) is the one we did together. The other 4 don't show anything but a big negative sign in a circle.
I tried Microsoft Edge and I see the One-Eyed Jack picture of you and Porky in Parkfield but nothing else on Weekly Faves. I see the Starr Struck pic of Geoff on ME but not GC. WTF?
This site is jacked.
I haven't been able to update the Rebolting Master List either.
-
"Good luck...we're all counting on you..."
What happens when you get to twenty?
Gotta start over on either fingers or toes.
-
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z9MqZ2DNSY3oZMjzrgqDj2n5dkNdVcXy0f8dLOA5ncfcaPsZN5F-4swWFKSNuoPY0rwHmXSScVjtHsIhTf_-TLZzaj7DJSU1P3MNtXPFUx02AbXucc85vUoPeRup75-eOGBe17qvPgCGhz5mYaY5W2C-FWigFZW7iYsE8nlJ_Y4cdfIxURL1LI817GdhPGeT0vykF7WnHqfP4t4JDckgloIgvARQ1-zFHk3DxjZWdYHgUUxwP7SnLSje16pAEi2ldKPOSBeJys9VfxVrai-STl_lU_VWO69mF-8pZZXOyir1qXeTkB37yzMcP63fmSG6V0Fj50tPON36h6WDgzMo6ow9ht2WoyLWHR3bPURJ3_6DaK0GEsR7UN1VerU1wBkoMCrWHBfsaQ3gALWliBOIXocRuMgRCQiZHTcyCQMAtb1O_kHZUSqNOp3oSeeUMX1IGttIFOQD2yJojM0qNvmvqVQAH6tkD4F6YnAFh8bkYz3VAQ3bJQCprhZTQ9EQT9NtMZ-eQWEpTevNSNLFkoc11IAqAIQVg44QwSy8F4r_eBerm7kZ4O-zHfIGlCGfVzxZqC4NRrz8Nj1D2z9y6VGa0xMV98aDMf_jnZgAruS3LE-i80FsguWKwP0v_FwMoBe8lmM-94Yxtz5T9mbDQ_Jw_P7fTHAOH0Rwvmq3WPabpu1NQXw4iUyDad_zOywRD84i0rv7YNK3yIBK8bqXgdzKa5b_=w479-h637-no?authuser=0)
Did this work? 1980s Pinnacles Geoff, me and my brother Jim
-
^^^
Good luck...we're all counting on you...
Well I bore it. But man, no grinning until I was done with the lead. Close together bolts (thanks God) and I was still scared ;)
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^^^
You can't say I didn't warn you.
Such a shame since it starts out fun.
I felt my ears burning this morning.
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Did this work? 1980s Pinnacles Geoff, me and my brother Jim
Nope - and looking at the code it is waaaaaaay too long.
I only see the One-eyed Jack and the one of you and Johnny. Strangely, Kat says she can see the one of Allie but I can't. You must have a problem with sharing. Try grouping the pics in an album and make sure you share the album - then create links for them again...
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^^^
You can't say I didn't warn you.
You did indeed warn me.
Such a shame since it starts out fun.
Absolutely. You look at the twin cracks/ first 40 feet and you just about have to climb it.
I felt my ears burning this morning.
Uh yeah, that would have been BAP using the "F" word (love you Jenn).
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I distinctly recall hearing my name followed by various expletives.
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The wind must of been strong. The expletives were also made before your name. And after. And during.
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Trying again
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pI7hBdje0IQpOqWgZk7nTv8O0wxjx9FFbUG1_lYSm50t18gdQQZDTTJjLsNraRet6JoxRRD4-zTA8losVR3zs-YVNradQsG3IDtuc6Q0er9vsZkfaa0XrFX2b4W4h45GoIcKid2FyVNDm1NJj0ZAR6s34USv0I2wwUOMy-u2bL6CKhslVo_bYM1mcIEokq5et56If6WAbslVOYN6M5tEFhN5W2sCf_tM9VgjiMbxsA20Krv9EASNENrFqzsUbY9ii_nGYleoWAK2Jd-2525ybRDTvOKUSaN0PG_C-iherwuh6dGiCeujh9z1UsD77OVC428IotOcEeXPs5qedpWYYFFDw25vqmO33g-ZE_CbakCRrugZvySo-eBeY7Gu8TkhcvWQYjneTk95IY80oFtJzPRV8wRkWs25gzkmQQOARUSUKr2ifMNSUSYI_FbuLhQ3ezF5o6T4d4HrG_WN3BZL8KUhuB2HPFk1qdn1fDpp8AF8wZ0ztjJ_iPZxfNYgSw_d5TETGLzm1QKC6pm6_7j562ula6FiN_Y4-V7m6ToVr0V2TMKZcEyLh3hKQm2DW4ln87kquX15p1MJYtX_5gpjtsE7-dK_VQKJmCgAVTlgJxR8amKchTejcetHSw8b8tMoE5AYzV3eRu5NfnpUt9Rqn0lYoFqxpfLl-QqzKUNEYemOQCIfFL6crudOxXXbGqp0eixm4G1RH3d7DbfMkGYYAEk5xg=w604-h453-no?authuser=0)
Unfortunately, this is the "after" picture. I was normal in the "before".
My daughter Laura sent this to me. I raised her well :-)
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r83m0ktDMUA0EET9ZvoJ_qnnKyy8vXzhlKKQpk9UgMq2itZN9Dk5JBj2IBFH39ODzWxTIN4VnUWQ2ELFAiaxeVCOIasRr_sbdCvJjTL2CTH6QkOakOOqFtEw41uPYQ_L3oE0CluABdVEXiFDCeMKeyt44jov1RnUOmdcm-XgfvtsTlAhAtS2aryYVRfLhFkTeXDKGeYxlLDF7kYBPbpo9xKncs4yPYq14jhMa6rqCiZlHO81C73SsT28jtrcu_j7HQ_2sDQMaFjmIdrXXXCvg6mslZhv1xM3C3sNAAihsJ6UCmQR0jRGbRlf00lrGC8Tc7Ky3MXEA8I-3jTWvOIlcyfHmtMT-PqrPZwYi47W_NP-9wg0uijeTp3ARzeH-q8JWc-zz0JFdzg8Yc0MF_gtHqqAMyTyiI-BFWkQMPAprI9FNWhhqCQ9OFkYRERnO-KrtM5tvfDBsil7lAjBZg-ewN2is8YP7xE0KBlEmxmh9sdMN-u7hKxrj-UGF5cEyQ8fmOHzjpMU5sRB4soS-8v6bpbtylktk79CHceKhecWmjGSZK8LqpKjQEo7SYyQvclgcFBWquX3E5odvF_tO6mhEq_pF9Ou83FEnWdrm2VlbAjSubRtUlK_efKobcsxbWszI_Mg1IN-C8U7FZrZVWTRsRN0BZ1Q0oM4fH0V05wLVz70P62HUcM5pf2Kxlxwrtd4rChqD11EPXpQVEdV2_2fPjz=w850-h637-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW1F25QMXchkaUdUpS7HkXxoxnisuuW_0FdECygZ6ekbUZCUOraJp7-DpLv8n1ZL_e2qiYWrWln0ZKM_CjjeuZipIGu71Ob3a7B9sm-F5PgFqCt3tZuJwcsM39_yn86v_1pzFScd4EtXJ29U_ZyZ4gO4qJckQXHGDrIutAoJLrrJwnIIvag2mKRz1o1ELFKvdY925Qsaq9zUapSgZ-IkFptXjfwFASb56WonKdA9tGAss3rymA3rN5vh2d0aA1aCFbZ6uRtj7WCkg_qRbfj2ucCm3b4pAo_3SHFilVtXNV-Ik3Y1KdJ7qc7fOHfQvIdpNZty0rWA48liqfeKyhjNjnxUpFxulqyKfi4tMnBX10R4CkGz94-Ls1JH6L_9q5474JUMlxWwmj1m6YJWT5Qw_Qwwqgew0g1hjqBoiXwuYH1lDxCOjQKzcJesQGswLmUcc22S1m5711szs721YvhbK4r5tnF7ZTL_3KMNVw6-Q46V6Mg2qgIVxfbvxp-fRwmnl-yxY_yrMc5m8tT_AFBr0SO3o88z2v1kBmwnMBDR3hRhQPlheeLF2eg2WqF4YalMFU3cxxsoPQMlHVhps2SVVBd7ysmvOrDMFQd0mn7Qfrbd33XHRAFYTsoGtZiB14czYmv_Uz1Pvib_CUS0irjsW4xkjfF_EJouV6HkxA_76pNK4O0EzU6uiCzJbMLULRruKMRsr7S_Ka1bhxHklHgIu0UHZi3MGAGZmx0x_50PZnzLlo=w850-h637-no?authuser=0&authuser=0)
JC on the FA of??
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I see the first pic but not the next one.
It's Uncorked.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N3fJ9wY0MXnrcd-YgKagffOLDzTEJOingo2UJz7mVfkF20uGxGrT1nqZ7tqsl6e18MK4vKv6fqY6nos9LYoi5RC5ZodeIbDmOQcgymlAd3T9FC_jyzigOV3owxDNV-Adrsss2O7yPNfCUtpH4efyeo74Xn-C4qRjML0V7NEeEL8QHS1q8005Ye_yKsZBJBe_zRm4Na60R7VKJhs_OmkPATWtl1_86EUtYVYS0GMBjUeICRwwlO3G2npl_V6j3JuqSg9iR8qia2DQsC1jzSXEj5uRM4WS51a1SblqZ00_XdDPd2PVQnbEchhRf2ZjfNSnoiqXLi_f1dm8pvtrMzgpcQ5VsQlH5nv4qIVD_UmjdHDjx_UdXdAXifsMeGYss0nSrVRMNL-AsOahDk8kBBOMAU6xnwwZ33_l16NfrlNAjn4LMtE_vrd4bY_cJMoO1ElPExPRi6mXjE3CeYW_xe8jubesQ4yOv2YMTNi13rGycG_wJLIktTCH5vhw-dbTSx7gHY4lgms2ixeAq7Ze995fbk9G_oz3tyDI-LyARcemN7vjiabjZYmZmCZ2SRI7V0-v3bHkSKSxwDjMdm7puH_oBnSTz0aXhj5jZk38KK_ho3dmGQ54VkB008ZtuJuzTgFxOWK5Rv760YyuZwnlMEdL4IUU6gKTwVgo38k4V6TWk0PGuT8gwsNlsN5UrK573OLScONkr5b-9jhTrpCnIFk3TO21=w850-h637-no?authuser=0)
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I cannot reply nice to that one
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I cannot reply nice to that one
Squint Eastwood and the Master of Mischief.
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I know. I could give an embellished description of some type of violation, but that would be crass and it's Thanksgiving and stuffing is good, not bad.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51712207907_fdbd78c5a5_z.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51712208757_15592b13d7_z.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51739620257_7b5fa9b81f_z.jpg)
Geoff Norris and Wayne McBroom and one of our early Pinnacles transportation vehicles, in front of my parents house.
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Mr. Rightbottom, excavating Saturday, drilling Sunday.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51816323150_7e7b1c80cb_z.jpg)
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Some fun from Monday, wait for it!!!
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Light as a feather. No points in the weigh in
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52014800541_41a975e666_z.jpg)
1984
Bouldering rock(Flat Top-Arms)?
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Nice shoes. I'll bet they had fantastic rubber?
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Nice footwork.
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^^^
My thoughts exactly since he has given me shit about mine.
Is that some kind of butt-cheek technique?
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We were supposed to go to pinns today
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52042157536_7a91854835_b.jpg)
The optimism ended about 6PM last night, with Jesse slung from a tree, trying, sometimes failing to remember the clove hitch. I asked if he needed a rescue.
Guess we will just play in the tree instead.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52042409434_00db6168d5_b.jpg)
Kim can rap now!
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Twist the bunny ears.
Remind me which airline to avoid...
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Nice Beanolar! You have cute kids!
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Thanks! :)
United, avoid united. Actually, southwest.
Here he is, caught with a hot mic: https://www.google.com/search?q=southwest+hot+mic+liberals (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqspzJ4_w1Q)
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Found more wonky hardware up on twinkle toes
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52113561928_e740cc5387_k.jpg)
Kim took all day to commit to the crumbly runout
Had to bivy at the top
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52112504192_5d051cc175_k.jpg)
Kim being helpful at the belay station
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52113567663_70abf4fca8_k.jpg)
Hauled the dog's bed the whole way
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52113537251_2d76ab8a25_k.jpg)
He was not pleased
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52112599302_c43bf52f69_k.jpg)
Super exposed ledge. Why won't she just clip in !?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52112499887_c8d3ddb58b_k.jpg)
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^^^
Nice photos. And by the way, what happened to your BABY daughter?!?
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Thanks! We miss pinns! Yep she is almost 5 (!!!?!)
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Not sure if there was a thread after this year's kick-off weekend, but I've been meaning to post these.
We had a blast with these good folks in October!
(http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=858.0;attach=804;image)
plus Brad showing off his epic physique
(can you believe I spent 30 minutes of my morning trying to figure out how to get both of these images inline? and now it looks like I'm giving up with the job half done after receiving an "Internal Server Error." How's that for inadequate, Brad? ;D)
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J+F,
It looks like (from your code) - you must have found the link to use what's available on the forum for posting.
I have never tried that. clink is my go to guy for posting photos - NOT!
If you aren't going to post more than 1,000 photos, I would suggest flikr as an easier and less frustrating alternative.
I posted instructions here.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2941.0
Looks like you guys had some fun at The Northeast Frontier
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We had a blast with these good folks in October!
Who is the fellow in the blue shirt?
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Use the method that J.C. recommends. It’ll take an hour to set up, but worth it in the long run.
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It’s so cool the way your pics blow up large when I click them!
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Who is the fellow in the blue shirt?
Just finally going through this thread.
I am the fellow on the left in the blue shirt.
This was a fun day!
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both excavation and drilling can occur pinns, but a loader? Seems a little like using a Totem on an pin scar.
Fair play?
-
?
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wtf
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I think it’s a prophecy.
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He's probably replying to a picture posted a year or more ago without quoting it. Bare-toe likes to keep folks guessing or just likes the nature of encryption.
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...Bare-toe...
Yes, like most of us, he's weird.
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Yes, but Munge is usually landing his darts in one of the rings.
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Dinner with The Kid
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BSMNrOIbww6bF3tjurR2qqz6zhuoHu5hGk6JDU-nXmFUynkXTP3Nya3FBAkeQLLKpFY67zEdcQN5_Z8G9Th9dqAWm3NErvx4MTScdNEk-F3U2R1KEwkQbCXNtZ7Fq6CpWIb9eJ0rlbsGySEk7XiSek=w426-h567-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Nice looking crew.
And Kat's hair? WOW!
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Look at all those beautiful people and JC!
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and JC!
:lol:
At least she cut off my freaky eyes. :crazy:
I still look like I think something is about to pounce on me.
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And damned if that doesn't look like God himself just the other side of The Kid.
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All the lost opportunities! So many days working on new routes with him when I should have been sitting on his lap, making wishes.
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...I should have been sitting on his lap, making wishes.
I thought that that's exactly what you were doing for all those days in the chimneys of Rituals and Magic?!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52676407498_b480dec5b3_k.jpg)
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Your picture is too big dude.
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I get by with a little help from my friends.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8B_KzFUDd96nQSnHSniqiKnCQN2t_JnMjPkNKTu83XkG8TQOAHdRasRjFHy_Fl4B_y455EAwdywTN7bKZB6FcjD1-tZ2B-TJyZB8mayyGpMWtaU8lPcyT4LbggnHiq6-qiPHlqjOxLJTmNOOLxND9Be=w836-h625-no?authuser=0)
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What's in your wallet?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8ADE9zTj42Tk9btLKAksgF4Ji_yapkFglkzE0Y3bAILRDg1kh47IlYNluaIMoQ-szhhjObk5aPri12hIE60sy7W0G7S1xPZQxfO6rCYl6reQtH-UKCc53r8DjSRsUD0c3mzz-6W_gd1E11s0Nc-8NUi=w1002-h625-no?authuser=0)
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That was a big halo around the sun. Claire sent me a text saying to take a look at it. I saved the picture on large instead of medium. Is that why it posted so big?
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How old (long decaying) do you have to be to get one of those in your wallet?
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When you turn 62 you can buy the forever pass (same price as a yearly pass) - but if you lose it, you have to buy another one.
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That was a big halo around the sun. Claire sent me a text saying to take a look at it. I saved the picture on large instead of medium. Is that why it posted so big?
I'm sure it is and of course Kat pointed out that my picture of the park pass was slightly too big. I'll have to check to make sure my setting didn't go cuckoo for coco puffs when my computer updated (infernal machines!) :madmax: :justmad: :madman:
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Fixed it. I had to add the "fix" explained in the information thread on posting photos.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2941.0
It would be more fun if the code added was "fixed pin".
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52689939558_097f5136d3_b.jpg)
Heres a picture of Brad on Little Pink Giant.
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I like your picture but the sun is in my eyes!
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The sun reflection in the camera eye produced a dot in the photo that marks the first bolt almost perfectly :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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^^^
That's actually a Powers Identabolt Laser Designator. They're pricey but worth every penny. It's guaranteed to last many years, showing noob climbers where the first bolt is. We decided to install this one because it is certain that many, many climbers will now be swarming up to these routes and repeating them again and again every weekend.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700131093_37f7cc3367_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52699897404_91aaea927f_c.jpg)
Checked out Goat Rock for first time yesterday. Easily one of the best views in the park.
Picture 2 is from For Goats' Sake. Props to the FA's, Gavin, John, Kathy, and Alacia. I look forward to climbing the 5.10s to the right. We had time to TR Sheep Sheer and it is a great route.
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The question WHERE'S WALDO?"
It didn't come up on Sunday:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700986072_90b3327294_c.jpg)
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Checked out Goat Rock for first time yesterday. Easily one of the best views in the park.
Picture 2 is from For Goats' Sake. Props to the FA's, Gavin, John, Kathy, and Alacia. I look forward to climbing the 5.10s to the right. We had time to TR Sheep Sheer and it is a great route.
Thanks Marco. It was really good to see you and Gavin and Brad this weekend.
We had a blast doing that route with Gavin and Alacia.
I've done all the routes on Goat except for Return of Piece of Ewe if you need any info.
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The question WHERE'S WALDO?"
It didn't come up on Sunday:
He was hangin' while you were bangin' :arf:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DSzhOQWu3dPS98o-z-g369seNcGgL_elvWUTwNSe7A0JXcqVmkstkZhSxo7y2Mz57KoKoKHWi9sxpo_y0FCsiYsnfb2N4iRhd87snH4rk55Hf1dDaXP0FnaZaupqXiaFj1pFN9UcyZ1b_pmaiWqUeg=w473-h576-s-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Wow, the perspective on that photo may be off, but I didn't realize how close we are to the top of the cliff?!
-
Brad (and friends) replaced the anchor on Viva Zapatos (now a 2-bolt anchor with chains (2 half inch ASCA bolts).
He left the original single bolt anchor for history and it is quite unusual.
A star dryvin with a duplex nail on an SMC stainless hanger - looks good for at least another 50 years. Even though the nail would be theoretically easy to remove (jinx) with a big crowbar (no tuning fork tomfoolery) - you can see that it has epoxy on it. That nail head might just pop off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85yPwR_PGCwatU6sVtuYC4x7PG1s1qIgZ34NwWNdt3xXJitLFW2IhVSFJxxtj_61kkCefImDnzWMxXOQ3-eSdhPy0fVefl2Fr0NbqYuZGqCn98Bm4_Mi05f91o3y2s6yUrJMsfrexssU9qj0pnbN8XX=w279-h236-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Is there a known date for this bolt?
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Is there a known date for this bolt?
9/1991 Jack and waldo's FA
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Here's a shot of the new anchor with, nearby, the old bolt (which we left for its historical value - I've never seen a Star Dryvin with a duplex head).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53468231484_92c8d64a08_b.jpg)
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Got out with Ryan this weekend and have a "weekly favorite" picture or two.
Aesthetic picture of Ryan going out on the sharp end.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53527232338_fc961ce03d_c.jpg)
Sometimes the sharp end decides that a single day using a rope is enough. :(
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53527232333_2c0fa1c9ca_c.jpg)
That being said if anyone wants to share a new rope or donate to the Marco Rope Foundation I know the owner and they are accepting donations.
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Can't have nice things at Pinnacles. For Pinnacles I always buy whatever rope is the cheapest and fattest. Sometimes that means you don't get a middle mark. Oh well. Fancy clothes like Arcteryx are also a bad idea. Especially the pants and super thin jackets.
Rope prices now are crazy.
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Tenuous reception here, but that photo of Ryan is so, so good that I've got try to post.
Sorry about the rope. And just buy a new one. With your career trajectory you'll soon be rich.
Alright, here goes an attempt to post....
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Marco what were you guys working on in the photo?
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Something close to Citadel?
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Something close to Citadel?
I thought the same thing but that is actually Goat Rock from a weird angle
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86stieldS9FUGDEvjxXLP1lKud-JUHiT0qHdqiXBx1ALiqXPMMykbYALc3BThT4UMyPCawTH1Pv6e2YfgYmRpERa5D6ppS1F87ny67XP82-yKmj36LoT5i0aTezWp3aYx1jIkRpobTO9X9XpT8mJ8C4=w797-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Nice pics!
Found a nice old vid of Bob on a climb some might recognize...
https://vimeo.com/17723320?share=copy
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Here's a shot of the new anchor with, nearby, the old bolt (which we left for its historical value - I've never seen a Star Dryvin with a duplex head).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53468231484_92c8d64a08_b.jpg)
Jack put this bolt in. I don't recall the strange nail. Our custom was to trade leads and bolts. He put in the first on this climb; I got the second and he put in the anchor. By the by, my favorite in this area was Las Aguilas. I'd go back to climb that one again.
P.S. That's definitely his hand-painted camo hanger. He always scoffed at my complaints about hiding bolts from desperate leaders.
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The old mens' trip was a big success. Lots of climbing (and hiking and birding) over six days.
Thursday was hot though - 82 degrees in the High Peaks (as I type this, more Goddamn snow is falling at our house... and sticking).
Here are five of the seven old men (Bob Walton had left by this point on this day, and my 89 year old father, who hiked to the High Peaks with us on Tuesday, did not do so this day, preferring to bird out by The Balconies). From left to right, Joel, Dave, Charles (Footie, really), Brad and Bart:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53652019633_12b5ab1fce_c.jpg)
Caleb and Steve also joined us on Tuesday, but since they are only coming up on ages 50 and 60 respectively within the next two months, they did so not as old men but by special dispensation.
Here's Dave leading The Sponge - Left. The start of this route is definitely not 5.6 any longer (it'll be 5.8 at the start in the new book). Footie is spotting and, out of sight, Bob was belaying:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53652150159_925f382945_c.jpg)
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As mentioned in another thread, Caleb took us down to a friend's property on the Arroyo Seco River for an evening barbecue. A truly beautiful place (and a really significant river, not just one in name):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53651916176_6d20281743_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53652374265_5cb8c82220_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53652374280_afdbe93a30_c.jpg)
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Wow, that house is right on the river! Nice.
The last time I did the Sponge was a couple of years ago. It had been almost ten years since I had last done it. Didn't really feel like anything changed or broke. It's just not intuitive and a little slick. Maybe 5.7.
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Dave backed off and then tried the start again. He said "5.8, maybe 5.7." But then Footie, Bart and Joel all did it and said 5.9. Bob literally could not do the moves.
And yeah, the "best" holds on it are surprisingly slick.
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5.9 no way. They were not finding the right stuff.
That is a nice photo of Dave leading it.
Surprisingly quite a number of ticks for this one on the Ole Mt Poojecter. Nobody suggests a higher rating. One guy even says the crux is mild. ;D
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I agree that it's not 5.9. But it's also not 5.6. We did a lot of 5.8 this trip and it seemed to be a few moves on the stiff side of 5.8.
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What else you guys climb up in the High Peaks?
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^^^
We were up there for 4 of the days. Lots of stuff from Photographers Delight all the way to Spike's Peak. Also out to The Flatiron where, among other climbs, Caleb amazed us with a huge high step at the top of Burton's Below. I fully expected to hear tearing sounds, but he survived just fine.
We ate too much good food though.
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Caleb must've been doing the cookin'
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The start of the Sponge is tricky and the holds are hard to see/decipher (especially for a bunch of old farts). You have to "sneak" into that climb. It starts by barely stepping left off the trail and moving diagonally left and up - then straight up. It was apparent the last time I was there that people have a hard time reading the LOLR and try to go straight up to the first bolt. I seem to recall seeing some spots where people tore stuff off trying to Go The Wong Way. Chalk on false holds too It takes a bit of "bouldering it out" for lack of a better expression (maybe "sussing it out" is better) before you can commit and get to the first decent stance (still well below the first bolt). I have led that climb multiple times and taken first-timers on it - never with any issues). No notes in my log on any of those ascents about it being more difficult or slick.
Did anyone lead Burgundy Dome's Regular Route? Or Tuff Dome Regular Route?
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Did anyone lead Burgundy Dome's Regular Route? Or Tuff Dome Regular Route?
Yes on Burgundy Dome. And that's not changed at all.
No on Tuff Dome, although Joel did all the routes on Bynum's. You won't be surprised at how tall, long and juicy the P.O. is at the start of Tuff Dome Regular either. One can still tiptoe around the outside of it, but is there any way to actually permanently kill that sh#t?
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Yes on Burgundy Dome. And that's not changed at all.
No on Tuff Dome, although Joel did all the routes on Bynum's. You won't be surprised at how tall, long and juicy the P.O. is at the start of Tuff Dome Regular either. One can still tiptoe around the outside of it, but is there any way to actually permanently kill that sh#t?
Not that the rangers would appreciate using in a National Park full of condors I don't think.
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Not that the rangers would appreciate using in a National Park full of condors I don't think.
Condors don't eat poison oak. But the point is moot anyway.
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It starts by barely stepping left off the trail and moving diagonally left and up - then straight up.
This. John keeps such good notes and has memory for this kind of thing. I wanted to say this earlier but could not say it definitively. John is right if you start down hill from the trail and go straight up to the bolt it is significantly harder. The slickness is more like the surface of some of the lodestones but I could be recalling that wrong.
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Yes on Burgundy Dome. And that's not changed at all.
No on Tuff Dome, although Joel did all the routes on Bynum's. You won't be surprised at how tall, long and juicy the P.O. is at the start of Tuff Dome Regular either. One can still tiptoe around the outside of it, but is there any way to actually permanently kill that sh#t?
Burgundy Dome Regular Route was my first 5.7 lead and I remember getting up there and stemming as wide as I could go and counting the few seconds I had to decide "go or blow". I also remember watching Alex Barbella some years later (as I belayed her) - back off the route at bolt 2 and come back down, regroup and go again. She got it that time but was leading 5.10's that were out of my league at the time. I led it that day too (before she did) and it was just as exciting the 2nd time around. That is a heady but great climb.
Did anyone lead the other Burgundy routes? That 4th class is not 4th class and has a bolt (Cochran and I replaced it). I know I fed all this information back to you at the time but can't vouch for your record keeping. :o I can look it all up again if you need me to.
And Vin Ordinaire? I rebolted that years ago but never went back to lead it. It looks good but there is something sinister about it.
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And Vin Ordinaire? I rebolted that years ago but never went back to lead it. It looks good but there is something sinister about it.
Never did this one. Before you rebolted it I remember not being able to see the bolts from the start (and maybe a fixed pin?) Considering the name and lack of stars moved on down the trail to something else
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Dave backed off on The Sponge when he tried to climb straight up to the bolt. He got it though when he climbed up and left (generally) to it. That's when he called it 5.8 or maybe 5.7. And said that that rating applied if one found the "right" way to climb it. All of the other climbers watched the way he went and thought that even going that way it was pretty hard. I'd love some more opinions if any of you can get up to it before too long?
Natalie's comment is apt: I've used an Ortho product, Brush-Be-Gone at Table Mountain around here. It'll kill it at the roots. But I doubt that the Park Service would look kindly on using that at Tuff Dome (and who wants to haul all that weight up there anyway?).
And John, your comments NEVER go un-noted (unless I really "F" up). Here's the new book's description for Burgundy Dome Regular Route:
871. Burgundy Dome - Regular Route 5.4 Climb to and then up the chimney on Burgundy Dome’s east side (the side facing the trail). Face moves to gain the chimney are the crux. Continue in the chimney (optional 1½ to three inch gear) to and then past a bolt up high (on the chimney’s right/main-summit side). Finish at the shared top anchor.
Vin Ordinaire is a serious lead. My friend Jim took a lead fall from it in 2006 that should have killed him (literally). A hold broke about 25 feet up and he had no pro in by that point. He tumbled head over heels. By sheer luck he hit the rock face at the base, the one that faces at the route, with his whole back and the back of his head all together, in one blow. I could hear the wind get knocked out of him (slammed might be the better word). If he'd hit that rock at a 15 degree different angle it would likely have just snapped his neck. As it was he bit through his lip and had road rash all over. I've never touched that route since then (I'd led it years before his accident). I also noted the position of the fixed piton low on the route (so people will find it) after reflecting on his fall:
873. Vin Ordinaire 5.8 R ** This route is on the northeast side of the formation, in a second concave face, to the right of Rappel Route. One fixed pin (30 feet up, to the right, on the edge of a hole) and two bolts can be supplemented by so-so gear.
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And Vin Ordinaire? I rebolted that years ago but never went back to lead it. It looks good but there is something sinister about it.
Jack and I rebolted this route too. The details are dim (and I was not in on the first ascent), but one of the original bolts was a 3/16's. We replaced it with a more robust Star. Jack used those 3/16's bolts when the stance was desperate. I don't remember which bolt it was, though it matters not at all now. Thanks, J.C.
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Jack and I rebolted this route too. The details are dim (and I was not in on the first ascent), but one of the original bolts was a 3/16's. We replaced it with a more robust Star. Jack used those 3/16's bolts when the stance was desperate. I don't remember which bolt it was, though it matters not at all now. Thanks, J.C.
It was the lower bolt.
From my rebolting log;
"I dropped in and was appalled at the top bolt – an inch and a half, ¼” compression bolt/split shaft on a modern hanger (SMC) that came out hideously easy with a few taps of the tuning fork – no crowbar needed. 1 1/8” of the bolt extended from the back of the hanger. The hanger was 1/8” and the nut was 1/4 inch thick and flush with the end of the stud. I couldn’t drill the hole out because the rock quality was bad. I had to find good rock and drill a new hole there.
The lower bolt was a decent-looking star dryvin and probably okay but I decided I still needed to replace it. It came out pretty easily once I got it started with the tuning fork. It was a 2 ½” nail that had been filed or cut off to about 2 1/8”. (no point on the nail)."
The stance had to be desperate at that upper bolt. I don't even see how he did it but I've heard plenty of stories about him and been on a few tough stances myself. Fear is an amazing motivator. Noal and Kat will remember me making some odd noises while drilling a bolt on the 5.9 at Deep Groove Wall.
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Here's the new book's description for Burgundy Dome Regular Route:
871. Burgundy Dome - Regular Route 5.4 Climb to and then up the chimney on Burgundy Dome’s east side (the side facing the trail). Face moves to gain the chimney are the crux. Continue in the chimney (optional 1½ to three inch gear) to and then past a bolt up high (on the chimney’s right/main-summit side). Finish at the shared top anchor.
Vin Ordinaire is a serious lead. My friend Jim took a lead fall from it in 2006 that should have killed him (literally).
Glad you got that new description.
Cochran followed me on that route and replaced the bolt on follow.
I just remember getting up in there to a stance and asking him to hand me my rack while he still could. Then I got up to the top of the "chimney" and found what I assume was an old belay bolt (since it was at my feet on top of the sub-pinnacle) and in garbage rock. All the rock on that top surface sounded like styrofoam. No crowbar needed for that one either (star dryvin) and it all came out in one piece.
I remember you telling me that story. Seems I recall there was someone there that was a nurse and rendered a little first aid? Or maybe that was Splatter Matt (or both).
Forgot to say that I think your dad is a badass for hiking to the High peaks at 89. I remember the last time my mom came out to California at age 83 and we took her to Pinns. We hiked out to the Destiny Wall/Flumes cutoff and on the way back she had to sit down and rest several times and kept saying it was uphill (which it is - but we never perceived it that way). I'll never forget it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMGmqP68uzsNC4pTJpSJ0D-5IEiFZDk58gNZaUzWlVrryezMZjajhbNKBLdAEisV8PLgworph241k34myowOuZrfsyCnuycGKMdKysE4FiN9UPuzL3G98AXrEFOkSZ85hSRVyXN48F42XCLSgQlZ_Bv=w1067-h800-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Never looked up the meaning of the name but it is cheap table wine for everyday use.
It has always looked good to me and is one of those climbs that calls to me but maybe it is the call of :devildevil:
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I looked in the book yesterday and saw it had 2 stars. I thought no stars for some reason.
I used to read more into route names. This one I thought the name might have meant nothing special. Kind of like table wine vs Burgundy.
For awhile I thought it would be funny to give easy climbs really scary names.
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For awhile I thought it would be funny to give easy climbs really scary names.
clunk and waldo already did that. The Big Bad West and Romper Room.
and no...that's not a typo. :ciappa:
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That's not scary enough.
Think more like Deathtrap, Wheelchair Bound, You Ain't Have Fun Til You're Dialin' 911 etc
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Hi! Does anyone know what time the west side lot fills up on sundays?
We might haul "baby" beano and captain Jesse up to high peaks. She's freakin 6 already, and more than half my height. What did they feed her?!
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I got there a little before 10:30 a month ago and was the third-to-last car to fit in Jawbone.
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^^^
Jawbone is overflow.
On springtime Sundays, the main lot, Chaparral, is usually full between 8:30 and 9:00. But Jawbone isn't a long walk away (unlike the situation on the East Side).
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Got out to Pinns on Sunday. Unfamiliar with area but believe this picture is Mikayla doing yoga ontop of an unnamed formation with Piglet Pinnacle featured in the far background. Correct me if I'm wrong.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53726121095_e21bba70b2_c.jpg)
Our rope got snagged on the rap off tower behind her. One bolt had just a rap ring and other like 13 links of 1/4" chain, made no sense. Would be good to bring chain for other bolt whenever someone gets up there next.
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It's a little early in the day to be drunk posting.
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It's a little early in the day to be drunk posting.
Not if you just haven't sobered up from the day before. Must've been that single shot of sake I had last night to warm up.
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I don't think you can blame a shot of sake.
you should come to KY and drink some bourbon.
On a more serious note - this is from my climbing log dated 6-8-17
REBOLT INFO: Someone removed one of the chains from the rappel on middle tower. I noticed on a previous visit that both chains were/are sub standard (1/4"?). One was attached with a screwlink and one with a smashlink. They looked equalized but the equal point sent you down too close to the edge of the tower (nasty swing potential). THE ANCHOR NEEDS TO BE MOVED. It’s set up now to rap off the lower bolt and the chain on the upper bolt simply serves as a backup. The upper bolt should be removed and moved lower or just move the whole anchor down. I also think several of the lead bolts need to be replaced. They are either wedges or split shafts.
I think the anchor could also be moved to climber's right and still be in a good spot to belay a follower. This was one of many low priority jobs on my rebolting list that I never got to. Not sure I ever will at this point (almost 7 years later) but I haven't forgotten.
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I don't think you can blame a shot of sake.
I had a cup of Sake and some potato chips to celebrate and I'm now barely able to type....
I beg to differ.
On a more serious note
On a more serious note had a few notes from Cuidado for master rebolting list.
Tat around oak at base should be cut. Was not trivial hiking to and from cave from that location.
P1 has about 6 star dryvin/ leeper combo.
P3 anchor had 4 quicklinks that were hand tightened, next person going up should bring wrench.
Rap off tower mentioned prior should have chain redone. As chain remaining was very thin and not remotely equalized.
Also large beehive in hole at base of bolt ladder for P1 of west face on Machete.
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Marco seems to exhibit abnormal tendencies. He might be interested in joining you, Bruce and Clint in the Knights of Prodigious Community Rebolting.
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...I beg to differ.
This damn kid has a memory and is arguing like a lawyer. A good one too.
In other news, as we are all gravitating toward granite season, I went up the highway in perfect temps with the dogs. Gorgeous up there, but by setting up a toprope solo rig on one of my favorite three star corner/crack routes, I learned that... I am emphatically not in shape for 5.10d corner/crack routes. Wow, I've got work to do.
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And I agree with J.C. that that particular anchor has been a pain for several years. I'm hoping that the condor closure lifts by the time I get to that part of the book next season. I'd like to do Old Original and get guidebook photos of it and of other important points nearby.
It wouldn't be beyond reason to take enough gear to totally redo the anchor there as part of a day like that.
Anyone want in on this by the way? As always, the chance would be there to be in a a guidebook photo or two and thereby get fabulously rich and undeniably famous.
I'll add too that there was an equally bad setup on The Flatiron until three or so years ago. Decent gear at the midway belay/rappel station on its east side. But the chains and rings were in illogical positions (really bad) and so there was no equalization and the pull was hard after rappelling. J.C. fixed that (and we noticed and appreciated the work while we were there for the old mens' week).
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I beg to differ.
You can beg to differ if you are a lightweight.
On a more serious note had a few notes from Cuidado for master rebolting list.
Tat around oak at base should be cut. Was not trivial hiking to and from cave from that location.
P1 has about 6 star dryvin/ leeper combo.
P3 anchor had 4 quicklinks that were hand tightened, next person going up should bring wrench.
Rap off tower mentioned prior should have chain redone. As chain remaining was very thin and not remotely equalized.
Also large beehive in hole at base of bolt ladder for P1 of west face on Machete.
I think you meant the rebolting suggestions thread. I will never climb Cuidado's upper pitches. I led p1 with Brad one day but that's as far as I go. We were "working" on Flies On A Pile.
I learned a long time ago to carry a 4 inch adjustable wrench (loose stuff) and a pocket knife (tat) at all times when climbing - but that is just me.
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This damn kid has a memory and is arguing like a lawyer. A good one too.
Disagree based on the following evidence;
From my notes - 1-10-14 - Tiburcio’s Upper Route 5.7 – the lower part is fun b/c it’s the first pitch of Cuidado. Kind of scary and committing/exposed crux but well protected. Some new and some old bolts.
I looked to see if I had any pics of the bolts on Cuidado p1 but the only one I have for that day is the only bolt on Upper Route - so the comment (some new and some old bolts) refers to the bolts on p1 Cuidado.
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I'll add too that there was an equally bad setup on The Flatiron until three or so years ago. Decent gear at the midway belay/rappel station on its east side. But the chains and rings were in illogical positions (really bad) and so there was no equalization and the pull was hard after rappelling. J.C. fixed that (and we noticed and appreciated the work while we were there for the old mens' week).
That anchor was the pits. Returning to the Flatiron to finish a few tidbits is on my short list if I ever return to rebolting.
The Thumb's rappel anchor also needs redone as it is similar to the way the Flatiron used to be (and you're stuck in that corridor for the pull). The other anchor that I can think of that is somewhat botched is The Knee. I used the original holes - which were way too far/spread apart. The pull isn't too bad though - since you can walk far away from the rock to reduce friction.
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I learned a long time ago to carry a 4 inch adjustable wrench (loose stuff)...
You should note that it isn't a "normal" four inch wrench - I've never seen so small a wrench that opens so far. So it actually fits every nut type and hex head on bolts at Pinns. I wanna be in your will to receive that particular item.
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So a hummingbird and a hippopotamus got together and designed a wrench?
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Marco - when you get a chance - go climb Pot and Peyote Pinnacle/Pillar.
I think you will like Peyote better.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOrJwnk5qONiDot7M4hgGS4XYrkmO38tx9_LOl3PG2WU_5EXj1b0U6XpyfxIR39wJsxCxoDLrCUh1TDzXW7ihhgRClD2UggvQGiBW3X1zhkEtd6q6nLrFzmOp0jEeFzU4ka8QtVf5YEfAAmPouIPRmv=w629-h839-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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He'll have lots of chances. Remember that he's only about 15 years old.
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You can make your own wrench like that. Cut the handle back on a normal length wrench on the bandsaw, round the end off with a grinder, and drill a hole through it. Voila, you now have a wrench with no leverage. That's why it's hard to find.
Don't ever get this weirdo wrench mixed up in your gear :nono:
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^^^
So, you make better tacos than you do wrenches?
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So the comment (some new and some old bolts) refers to the bolts on p1 Cuidado.
Yes, I disagree with Brad. My memory is only good with stuff that doesn't matter much such as FA info and random bolts. Not good remembering climbing beta or any of my current course material.
Though for the bolts on P1 Cuidado, I believe it went: bolts 1-3 PS with fixe hangers, bolts 4-6/7 were star dryvin/leeper, then the lower anchor (you climb past) had a left bolt that was PS while right bolt was star/Leeper. The last lead bolt was Leeper, then the left two anchor bolts were PS Fixe and one relic on right. (3 bolt anchor). I was not saying there are only 6 bolts all star/Leepers on P1 of Cuidado.
Marco - when you get a chance - go climb Pot and Peyote Pinnacle/Pillar.
I will, unfortunately like Brad mentioned granite season is creeping up on us. I will have to check those out next year when I'm 16 and can finally drive myself to the Pinns. Though I think my bad memory is from engaging too much with the first pinnacle already.
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So, you make better tacos than you do wrenches?
Yep, I'm just the guy that makes the tacos.
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Yes, I disagree with Brad. My memory is only good with stuff that doesn't matter much such as FA info and random bolts. Not good remembering climbing beta or any of my current course material.
Though for the bolts on P1 Cuidado, I believe it went: bolts 1-3 PS with fixe hangers, bolts 4-6/7 were star dryvin/leeper, then the lower anchor (you climb past) had a left bolt that was PS while right bolt was star/Leeper. The last lead bolt was Leeper, then the left two anchor bolts were PS Fixe and one relic on right. (3 bolt anchor). I was not saying there are only 6 bolts all star/Leepers on P1 of Cuidado.
Now THAT is some good information. IF I were to go out to work on p1, I would know exactly what to take tools-wise. I wish everyone would report information like this (no one does - this nice "list" may actually be a first).
Though I think my bad memory is from engaging too much with the first pinnacle already.
The effects of Peyote will be more dramatic but temporary.
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You can get someone to make you a wrench like that. Cut the handle back on a normal length wrench on the bandsaw, round the end off with a grinder, and drill a hole through it. Voila, you now have a wrench with no leverage. That's why it's hard to find.
There - I fixed it for you.
There is a nice piece of cord tied into the handle that you can use for torque assistance.
Don't ever get this weirdo wrench mixed up in your gear :nono:
C'mon man...where's the love?
:ciappa:
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It's a weird wrench.
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Own it brah. :yesnod: :lol:
Won't be the first time someone called me a weirdo (or the last).
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How can he “own it” when you call him, asking if he’s got it before he even gets home!?
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A wise man once said "You are not what you own"
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A wise man once said "You are not what you own"
I thought he said "You are what you is. You ain't what you're not".
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Posted before, but looking at some pics and enjoyed capturing this so reposting...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/8661/16280023916_9a6f56ba28_c.jpg)
I recall snapping a pic of him several seasons prior while hanging at the Monolith. I wonder if I can find that shot too. hrm....
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/8478/8275666835_9f530675da_c.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/8630/16119779399_fd56c70516_c.jpg)
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The King of Cryptography.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54278725960_563bf676d3_b.jpg)
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Heres a random photo dump from Juniper Canyon yesterday, just some nice pictures IMO. Ryan took some photos of Beto and I climbing Rocky Rhodes to Helios Finish on the Colossus.
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Beto following P2
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54346510338_f0a69b334a_c.jpg)
Here he is after turning the corner, taken from P2 anchors.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54346508673_41688bb206_c.jpg)
Beto leading P3
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54346275721_f474115ee9_c.jpg)
Probably around the same point as the last photo
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54346274211_d26ed0507b_c.jpg)
Nearing the top of P3
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That looks dangerous, young man. You come down from there.
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Nice photos. Is that variation new?
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That looks dangerous.
Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity... at least thats what all my gear tells me.
Nice photos. Is that variation new?
Thanks! It's a little over a year old.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54437152571_ba9ebb287c_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54437153046_7a06030d61_c.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54437341569_80bae5936c_b.jpg)
Wow what a rad looking route! On the Pink Giant I suspect. I bet its got good rock is brushed and well protected. Probably harder than 5.7 but under 5.10a, ideal range for any climber to enjoy.
Perhaps it will get a repeat in the next 5 years. Other than Brad of course because it is under 5.10
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Got a couple shots of Noal on the same route around the last 5.8/5.9 move before it eases into low angle slab. I got a bit worried about how Noal would like the route when he mentioned on the approach he didn't think it was worth bolting 30 ft of climbing that just goes into low angle slab. Luckily I think this route just exceeded the 30ft minimum of real climbing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54437729931_be23bd11e6_c_d.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54437729916_6992e82f66_c_d.jpg)
Sunday Marco and I climbed Son of Dawn Wall and I was really impressed with Marco's demonstration of confidence and serenity as he lead the p5 chimney.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54438941994_3d410c5f45_h_d.jpg)
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You must of been holding the stick clip.
Here's a couple of Ryan on Marco and Ryan's new route.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54439383998_2a0658b3b4_b.jpg)
Luckily I think this route just exceeded the 30ft minimum of real climbing.
Yes, it did. It's a nice route. Good rock, the difficulty increases the closer you get to the crux, and the crux is distinct.