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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on November 07, 2008, 10:31:30 PM

Title: What are good aid routes in the A1 - A2 or C1 to C2 range at Pinns?
Post by: mungeclimber on November 07, 2008, 10:31:30 PM

Dave asked me about these, and here's what I came up with off the top...

West Side:
First pitch Son of Dawn Wall A1 (basically a bolt ladder, bring hooks)
Lucky 13 A1 (bolt ladder, but has an easy free pitch after that goes up and left to a set of anchors)

High Peaks:
Mechanic’s Route A1 bolt ladder, great location. Now a free route. I haven’t done this one.  Do Photographer’s Delight while there if you can get an anchor for soloing.

East Side:
Bridwell’s Bolts A1 (again, bolt ladder but bring hooks) I haven’t done this one, but Brad has and he rebolted some of the old ones, but left in some old ones for spice.
Jorgies Crack (C1 but this is a popular free climb, best on a day when few folks are around)

Title: Re: What are good aid routes in the A1 - A2 or C1 to C2 range at Pinns?
Post by: mynameismud on November 08, 2008, 07:30:41 AM

The Wedge, Mustache, Triangle Skirt

Title: Re: What are good aid routes in the A1 - A2 or C1 to C2 range at Pinns?
Post by: F4? on November 08, 2008, 09:00:42 AM

For SODW you MUST do the complete 1st pitch and not stop 1/2 way like most do. That's where the good stuff is. Lucky 13...yawn, just free climb the route at 5.8.

I'd also have to recommend:
*West Face route...lets you access the ones below.
*Rock around the clock
*Bill's Bad Bolts

Muchshitty direct? haven't gone past the 1st pitch (I know, weak)

The above are easy C1, but bring your free climbing shoes. I like these routes cuz you get great practice with getting out of your aiders and free climbing.

Title: Re: What are good aid routes in the A1 - A2 or C1 to C2 range at Pinns?
Post by: squiddo on November 13, 2008, 10:04:15 AM

Bill's Bad Bolts...that looks like fun. Is it similar to Rock Around the Clock?

Title: Re: What are good aid routes in the A1 - A2 or C1 to C2 range at Pinns?
Post by: F4? on November 13, 2008, 10:31:38 AM

Easier from the stand point you don't have mandatory free moves. Plus they give you a bolt for each aider. Kinda nice.

Once at the top, put a directional in and TR the heady 5.8 on Dedalus. It needs the traffic.

Title: Re: What are good aid routes in the A1 - A2 or C1 to C2 range at Pinns?
Post by: squiddo on November 13, 2008, 02:30:18 PM

Sweet, lets go. Maybe now I'll get to break out the aiders. Ohhh, wait we could even practice the Aussie rappel. Kidding.