MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on March 19, 2015, 04:21:24 PM
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So I keep seeing pics of this route. Today in the mtn hardware blog (http://blog.mountainhardwear.com/the-plight-of-the-san-francisco-rock-climber/).
Most of the moves on this thing **look** do-able.
Have you been on it?
What is the crux?
Beta?
I'll be hanging dogging something on Sunday of the Mud weekend.
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Queener has a video online - vimeo.
i just typed lard butt in google.
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(http://blog.mountainhardwear.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Steven-Roth-Lard-Butt.jpg)
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It does make it look small, eh?
https://vimeo.com/73818072
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His vid of Old Original is way worthy 'in the rain' send!
Full alpine conditions.
https://vimeo.com/35611819
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These days I'm more Lard Butt than Stupendous Man.
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Well to answer you question, because it is way friggin hard. Have been on it. It is a bit deceptive in that it is double over hanging ( over and to the side ). The holds are also kind small. Kyle makes it look not to bad.
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The boy dreams large. Nothing wrong with that ;)
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Could drop a cord on that 12 on upper crust?
I know you know the beta.
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Insert Quote
Could drop a cord on that 12 on upper crust?
I know you know the beta.
When the holds disappear pull on a series of bumps the size of chocolate chips, after this it gets easier.
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I prefer Lard Ass.
Full on barf-o-rama...
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Could drop a cord on that 12 on upper crust?
I know you know the beta.
Need full shoulder extensions which are out at the moment. I like that one, it fits my style of climbing, delicate with loose bits to a big crumbly dead point.
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I like that one, it fits my style of climbing, delicate with loose bits to a big crumbly dead point.
lol, quotable
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Anti-Gravity Backpacks: New from Osprey
Buy one of these from REI, then send.
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The opening moves are gigantic and require loads of upper body strength and mega amounts of core to do smoothly. I've seen some yolked out dudes not be able to those moves, probably a decent V6 section. There is a mediocre rest before the true crux with a move into the Vulcan-cling hold. It's a undercling at the bottom of the but feature that requires you to split your middle and index fingers to one side and the ring-pinkey on the other, if you get this wrong you're screwed. Back step the shit out of this and make you way up to a few small crimps that eventually lead to a dyno where there is a bolt to clip. That's the crux at about V7 or V8. The top is extremely delicate on very small holds, this is the repoint power endurance crux and it spit me off about 10 times.
I actually love this route and do re-peat it, but its always just freaking barely, ha ha ha ha. It's a hard one.
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The opening moves are gigantic and require loads of upper body strength and mega amounts of core to do smoothly. I've seen some yolked out dudes not be able to those moves, probably a decent V6 section. There is a mediocre rest before the true crux with a move into the Vulcan-cling hold. It's a undercling at the bottom of the but feature that requires you to split your middle and index fingers to one side and the ring-pinkey on the other, if you get this wrong you're screwed. Back step the shit out of this and make you way up to a few small crimps that eventually lead to a dyno where there is a bolt to clip. That's the crux at about V7 or V8. The top is extremely delicate on very small holds, this is the repoint power endurance crux and it spit me off about 10 times.
I actually love this route and do re-peat it, but its always just freaking barely, ha ha ha ha. It's a hard one.
So yer saying there's a chance! ;)
Yeah, thinking this will not be my 5.13. I need a good 12a. :)
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Future Shock.
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Alright, I'll bite: What's a "Vulcan-Cling" hold?
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Alright, I'll bite: What's a "Vulcan-Cling" hold?
I tired to explain but its that thing Leonard Nimoy did with his hand. I don't know what it was called exactly, but you grab the hold like that but in an undercling.
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Kyqueener, that is an awesome route description. I read it yesterday but it hit me this morning when the first thought to go through my mind, as I shuffled to the bathroom and turned on the lights, was your description of Lard Butt.