MudNCrud Forums

How many days have you been at Pinns this summer?
9 outings for me so far  ;D
4 new routes complete, a couple of new leads, a few old bolts replaced.

Adventure is alive and well.


clink on the well protected crux of Mud Diamond 5.7*** (there is a bolt at his waist)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/37075748952_a1310bab9e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUsU)



This is how the bolt got there  :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/37075749112_de73f1e548_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUvE)

nice sling placement.

you coulda tied off that drill and left the bit behind too! ;)

I thought you might like that. :yesnod:
It was unnerving weighting that little sucker and then hoisting up on it a bit.
I was able to get these side slings on and nestled in once I did that. :ihih:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/37247649715_80782db761_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKrWza)

Such a very special edition.   :puke:

 >:D

puking emoticon is my favorite.
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Is that a new drill, btw?  The top end doesn't look mushroom'd.

Very creative nelkins  8)

Pretty new. I also don't beat the hell out of my drill holders.
I keep 'em filed too if they do mushroom - that shroom edge can be razor sharp - saw Primrose draw blood one day when we were working on the Inn Crowd - man that seems like a lifetime ago...

you could belay off of that.

Funny you should say that but you are right - it is a great hold.

I offered to belay clink up so he could finish drilling the hole.  :ihih:

If only your mouth had fallen asleep along with yer legs. :P

Your price on bolts and hangers just went up   :idea::devildevil:

will remember that line

 After finishing up the (Brad's ?) grey chute that JC had called Just Chute Me and I dubbed High Lee and Unlike Lee, we backtracked around to the north side of the formation to escape the sun. First we scrambled up a fin to a ledge with a nice tree and a possible line, but the rock quality after 20 ft up looked questionable. Rather than put effort into this, we continued around to the toe(lowest point) of the buttress to take a look at a line that caught our attention the first trip to the area.

A beautiful lodestone started us out just left of the toe, followed by consistently great holds at a left diagonal and then dancing up to a headwall (45 ft up) that looked more do-able on the left. The route instead went more or less straight up, right through the steepest part and within a sea of bomber holds at 5.7 (for my height.) The next stance was a beauty, as was the whole day and a 5.fun new route.

It all started with me polluting the bathroom with a very "special edition", just in time for the arrival of the sport climbers. Who decided after a brief conversation, that it was the worst bathroom smell they had ever encountered in their short life experience, at which point I offered up only "Special edition" from the far stall as an explanation. JC heard them relate their dangerous encounter to the girl partner back at the car and I found him nearly dead from shaking with laughter on my return. :)

 
 

Classic day with clink. 5 fun indeed and repeated gut wrenching laughter  :yesnod: :biggrin:

When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?!  ;)

Yes

Let me know when you want to lead it and I'll go out and show you which bolt to skip.
I could use the entertainment. I think clink would like to be there too. :devildevil:

I have to mention that the main little knob I was hanging on was barely wide enough to keep the skinny sling on and no way it would stay on if you blow the move. It is also a long and committing reach to get the sling on there. Lastly, that particular knob is a key hand hold for setting up and pulling the crux, so the sling would be under your finger tips. 3 people led the climb Sunday and thoroughly enjoyed it. The climb definitely has some spice even with the bolts.

Now I also have another 5.7 just up the corridor from there and the crux move relies on an incredible sling knob. The knob is about 3 feet above a bolt and it is also a bit reachy and committing to get the sling on it. Kat is following the climb here. It turns out you can do the crux right or left of the knob but the holds looked sturdier to me on the left. I did it on the left and she did it on the right. No one else has led this climb so far. Bottoms Up!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37075749002_6cb6d14f20_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUtL)

Rock Naked  :yesnod: :yikes: :ihih:

Never again...  >:(

 8)

I would love to get over there and lead it sometime - it looks like a fun climb for sure!  Nice work putting it up!  Oh, and methinks I'll definitely be happy that there is a bolt right there! =)

The caption on that photo should say " kat's head shown for scale only"
Head sized lodestone.

Hold it, weren't we talking about Rock Naked?

If you want to lead that, you're as nuts as Mud himself  :-\

Naw. I just put that on there for Mud. I want Scott to have fun!  :biggrin:

Funny dude  :biggrin:

That thing is so bomber! Route should get a star just for that  8)

I feel like I missed something here, but I'm now very wary of the words "rock" and "naked" being used together!

There is a route on the Outcast called Rock Naked

Had a fun two days with KC at Pinns.
We talked to a lot of different folks, some climbers, some not.
We started and finished a new route Friday.
Call of the Crud 5.5, 4 bolts in 100 feet to a 2 bolt anchor.
It got pretty smoky starting about mid day.
I think the smoke actually helped keep the temps down a little.
Camped last night and went back out early today.
We noticed a thin layer of ash on the car this morning.
I thought the chute I had my eye on would be at least partially shaded early.
I was wrong.
Two bolts in on a sun drenched face and I'd had enough.
We'll finish that one next weekend.
Ashes the Mud and I. Rating tbd :thumbup: :biggrin:  

I think it was cooler down there than up here.

It was only 99 yesterday but felt about 103 to me on the way out after we decided to bag it.
Working in the sun didn't help but I was determined to at least get the line started.
There was not a single mosquito in the campground but there are still biting flies.
I thought the flies were gone but they seem to have gotten a second wind.
Persistent little buggers.

How is life up north, other than hot?

Hot and a bit muggy.  Today is a bit cooler and actually fairly reasonable.  Got out  today and and did two climbs at a local climbing area called the exits ( you take one of two exits off the freeway.  The guidebook uses the word Velcro to describe the rock and it is appropriate.  Some of the most and most likely the most tacky rock I have ever climbed on.  Got out two different days and rode the bike.  Starting to settle in a bit but have a ways to go.

Excellent. Good to know you are getting out.
That rock sounds interesting.
Here's to Mud in your eye  :biggrin:

At least you weren't bothered.

Sound interesting. I went looking for it on that "garbage in/garbage out, with occasional good entries" site. Is this it:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/exit-32--little-si/105789876

The ramp left of HMIYE?

Correct.

Nope, that is Little Mount Si which is actually closer to the house and as of yet I have not been there.  There are supposed to be some steep climbs that can be climbed when wet but they are known to seep a bit during the rains.

This is Exit 38 and the crag with Endless Bliss
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/gun-show/105798594

We need you to come up here and write a comprehensive guide book to the I-90 corridor.  I figure you can knock it out when you cruise through the PCT next summer.

Thanks, and
Here's to sweat in your eye

We hiked to the summit of Little Mt Si years ago when I had a buddy living in Redmond.
The closest I have been since then is seeing it in the background when Bullock gets abducted in The Vanishing  >:D

It's official. You all missed the best day at Pinns all summer - weather-wise.
It was so foggy this morning I could not see the Hand from the res.
I'm not even sure I sweated on the chug up the hill to the crag.
I was almost cold getting started in the pseudo sun. It was still trying to peek out of the fog at that point.
I didn't actually feel the heat of the day until 2:00 and even then it was pleasurable.
Park gauge says it was only a high of 87 at 3:30 - I was on the road a few minutes after 3:00.
I spent the morning and early afternoon hanging on knobs and drilling 3 bolts - rope solo.
I will lead the route tomorrow and I told KC if she doesn't lead it she will lose her status as a Tuff Chik.
This is going to be another fun one.
Kat and I are heading back out in the morning to beat the crowds for the free centennial day.

Sounds kinda like missing the "best day" in months of beating yourself on the head with a hammer.



Seems to be a pattern? A symptom of the heat? Either way, inflict a few blows in my name too please.

Be ready, 2-3 lines are in a wait to explore with the "SOS" come fall.

Seems like you have things under control already :lol:

Kat and I also had an interesting conversation on the trail today after she had done two new leads. I reminded her that she scored big time by leading the new routes. First of all, she redeemed herself, since I told her if she didn't lead the route I finished bolting yesterday rope solo, she would have to renounce her Pinns status as a Tuff Chik. I told her in addition to leading the routes and being on the first ascent party, she also got the coveted 2nd ascent of both routes. She replied - Cool, I retain my status and I got to snake Brad  :yesnod: :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:

I spent Friday getting the upper 3 bolts on Ashes the Mud and I.

Here are the knobs that protected me for bolt 3. The bolt is already in place.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/37247050895_43a105f38e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSyF)



Here is the array I used for bolt 5. It was literally a ladder of knobs. A big one at the bottom, baseball size in the middle and a nice horn at the top. This shows the bottom and middle. The red sling is on the top knob. The purple is in direct to the bolt so I could take the photo and prep to get back down.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/37247051205_367ba1de43_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSE2)



Here is the top knob and bolt 5 ready for my descent.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/37056716356_55ac6d1734_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YszmJG)



Feeling good after a fun day

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37247051705_87313b247b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSND)



I took this yesterday after Kat led the climb. Super fun beginner’s route with an old school finish.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/37056715536_157c509e4c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yszmuy)

Me, Myself and I Reek in the Hot Sun

I have no doubt that is true.
I did not spend any time in the hot sun this weekend.
Maybe if you didn't have greywacke between your ears you wouldn't have either :lol:


This is fog, not smoke.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/37104552471_a80d0ee8a6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwNwKi)

There's definitely fog somewhere this season.

Meanwhile, my left elbow is all bloodied from the very awkward, 5.10c crack I successfully led today (maybe I will get back to being a real climber after all). Of course I then backed off a 5.10c face - feeling really rusty on that one and was looking at a fall right onto an eight inch, ankle breaking ledge (the FA party did a piss poor job of bolting it).

Unless you led a 10c at Pinnacles I'm not interested.
Oh wait...it's granite, it's a crack, it's 10c...I'm still not interested :nonod: :lol:

Oh...and speaking of fatheads (should I cross post on that other thread?)..check out this new drill bit I tried yesterday.
It drills real nice. The Powers Fat Head design.
Just for fun I switched to my other drill after getting the hole started with this one and it immediately started binding.
Switched back and no more binding. One hole is not enough data but I'll speculate this sucker is going to help me place a lot of bolts faster and easier.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37104768571_61ab94cd04_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwPCZa)

Nice, Brad.


Fogged mind.

Despite that JC is right. When most of the holds will stay put, it's a little boring.

Briefly hit 96 today.
What a waste :madmax: :lol:

 Nothing was wasted, it was Gender Equality Day. Like D-Day, but with more letters represented. A day for male and female Homo-sapiens to stand tall and proud together as a species, on a united front(but not full)!

Except a perfect opportunity to quest for mud.

I think summer might be over in NW.  Rain in the forecast W-F.  Weekend weather was nice.  Got in a ride Sunday.

Yes, I forgot you actually live somewhere now that has real seasons  :biggrin:

I had a hard time adjusting to that when we first moved to CA.

Mainly it was the lack of thunder and lightning with the rains.

It was like waiting for a phone call that never happened.

Good to know you are getting out.

I was thinking you might have just led the line I did Friday on sling knobs and gear. :ihih:

There was a good gray alien about half way up in a hidden slot out right.

I'm looking at the picture upthread again of the latest route.

If I hadn't already decided on a name I'd probably call it Half a Dozen Scoops of Mud.

You can even see them on Google Earth.

I thought it looked like a backbone too, the first time I saw it in that view.


Here is another version with the bolts shown

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4335/37056716016_7c9c44d090_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YszmCQ)



Here is the Google Earth view with the line coming up dead center

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36433181733_46d3427035_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvtzBK)

Adjusting to winters with more than a week or two of rain might take a bit.

Nah, I'd solo it  ; )

The crud beckoned and we obeyed.

Some lame brain stole clink's water stash.

We tidied up and led a few new lines.

KC got the coveted 2nd ascent of Call of the Crud, thus snaking Brad again :lol: :thumbup:

Lower 90's was pleasant :biggrin:

 Water stash was for the parched summer dweller's use, although that particular stash I thought might be consumed by the resident Meanderthal.

I hope they ran out on the way back and drank from the reservoir  :devildevil: :ciappa:

Kat leads Call of the Crud 5.5 with a long way to go

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36847804400_740ee5afb2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cuq)



I did not get the full impact of Kat fussing at me about almost running out of rope every time I climbed up Call of the Crud, until I belayed her on the climb. We were using a half rope, which ends up being perfect!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4345/37055543816_cc79e48ffe_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ystmbu)



Looking down Here's Mud in Your Eye 5.8** from above the last bolt.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36847804110_a975dc271e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cpq)



I managed to get all of the bolts/draws in this shot. The fact that they look only inches apart from each other shows how steep the climb is. Love it! :yesnod:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/37055543426_3bf18fe97a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ystm4L)



Kat takes a run up just below the last bolt. Three star quality for sure. The only thing it lacks is greater length. Does size really matter? :ihih:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36847803740_985e4854d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Ci3)

Fun pics.

Looks fun! Where are those routes?

Come to the PCAD in 5 weeks and find out  :yesnod: :biggrin:

Took my first leader fall during our quest for mud this weekend and I screamed like a little girl. (Just like Brad)  ;D

Got a treat this weekend.
Kat took Friday off and we continued our quest for mud.

Friday we climbed Mud Diamond (clink is jealous since it was my 3rd time). :ihih:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/37055543096_b2f8a746d7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkY5)



From the Mud Diamond anchor we did a 4th class route 110 feet to the summit of the formation.

The Walking Mud 4th Class
Description preview: For experienced Mudders this route will likely be a walk in the park. For the inexperienced it may be a horror show.
The other option is to Fear the Walking Mud and rappel from the Mud Diamond anchor.

Up next, Kat took her first leader fall on Shoo Fly Slab after a hold broke just past the second bolt  :'( :-* :yikes:

After getting our fill of crud, we got a new route started (3 bolts), had a pleasant evening camping and finished the new route yesterday (2 more bolts and a 2 bolt anchor).


Drilling bolt 3 on Squeaky Clean Mud 5.6**

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36847803450_22ae4ef6c6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cd3)



Beanolar joined us yesterday for a few routes. I led Prairie Falcon to get warmed up.
The gals seemed to have reach issues on the climb (oops) :devildevil: :ihih:,
Beanolar stepped up and led Fledgling and Here's Mud in Your Eye and then ran 6! laps on HMIYE with her micro traxion setup while Kat and I finished the new route.


Beanolar leading Fledgling

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37055542766_291361e1a4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkSo)



Beanolar leading Here’s Mud in Your Eye  

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36847803180_4ef4200835_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97C8o)



We saw a couple of the kids from CSUMB (Fletcher and Connie) in the parking lot on the way out. They were fired up about the upcoming PCAD. There will be some serious fun to be had on all the new routes after we get some trail work done!  :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Cool Beanolar. KC, quit breaking holds and I am jealous I missed Squeaky.

Cool routes guys!!! Nice n cool in the shade. I only broke a sweat on the first bolt of that 5.6. JC's new nickname is "Reachy John".

Also I found a bit in the mud (clink's fat head?). Reachy John has it. Pls pay me back by adding a lower bolt to that route.  ;D

KC, ignore Clink's advice and break whatever you like. It saves me the trouble.

 Nope, there are plenty of well protected new routes. I like the mix.


 Brads yell was like an angry troll or Cyclops when his eye got poked. He was pretty pissed but stuck the landing on the slab below. You kept him off the ground KC!


Love that route.


When are you Mudding next Waldo?

What, you thought I'd miss that you little turd? You are as busted as busted can get.

I don't f#$%ing fall at Pinnacles and I only scream like a little girl for rattlesnakes.

Missed the Mud today, but got to climb with the geologist.

OK, maybe not THE geologist, but at least it was the other one.

We established four new routes on Forefather's Wall: two crack and knob, gear protected 5.6 routes, a 5.11b layaway with one gut-buster move that I could not do, and a three out of three star 5.11c that I'll bet I can redpoint (although I think I'd fall off the first crux two out of three tries; that just means I have to try to lead it three times, right?).

As great as a climbing day can get (without being on mud).

 ?? Shopping before payday?

That's pretty funny - I'd never put those two together like that before.

No, layaway, as in one is pulling hard and leaning away from the pull, but not doing a full lieback.

Can't say I missed it, as the temps hit 104 today and I was already there Monday, Wednesday, Friday and yesterday.
It was only 101 yesterday.

Mmmmmm...Mongo like 5.6 routes but not like long drive  :nono: :prrr: :lol:

Yes, but Mongo like the hospitality once long drive is done. Get Mongos's butt up here for next weekend?

Waldo came out and climbed some routes with me and Kat on Saturday. He led Call of the Crud and he and Kat followed Squeaky Clean Mud and TRed Here’s Mud in Your Eye.


Waldo in the vicinity of bolt 3 while leading Call of the Crud 5.5

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/36847802390_9379a6e5ae_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97BTL)




After he said adios, I bolted the line right of Here's Mud in Your Eye - two bolts compared to HMIYE's 4. It leads you to standing on the biggest perched lodestone I know of anywhere in Pinns to clip bolt 2. Mudster's Ball 5.7* A decent addition but obviously not as enticing as HMIYE since no one took a shot at the coveted 2nd ascent yesterday. Who wants to snake Brad? The line was originally TRed by clink and at that time we called it Senor Skid Marcos. It may actually produce the requisite brown spots for someone leading at the grade. I told clink I was going to climb to the ball for the first bolt but decided that no one would probably ever want to repeat it if I did that. It had a nice stance for the first bolt (albeit hairy to get there) but no way to let go to drill. I set up some slings with adjustable daisies and half-stood, half-hung to drill bolt 1. I have been wondering why my shoulder has been bothering me lately.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36848666790_5534b20f5c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9c3Rd)



Here is some perspective

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37074914452_42f019b9a8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YubCoY)



Here is the ball

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36848666580_be51d6268b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9c3MA)



And another for perspective

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/37074914012_5f8ac13e1f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YubCgo)




Aaron, clink, Paul and Bee came out to the mud yesterday to enjoy some select menu choices. Maybe I should design a mud a la carte tour for the PCAD?


Aaron got things going by jumping right on Imprint 5.8*

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/37055542316_7b771d9cbc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkJC)



B stepped up and proved it can be done by those under 6 feet. She had a time getting that first clip but she worked it out. Her left hand is just below the bolt. Can you say flash pump?

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36847802690_9ea8931a55_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97BYW)



As Austin Powers would say - Yeah daddy! Squeaky Clean Mud is giggly fun coming in at 5.6 and two stars. I left some spice in the bolting pattern but it is all there.


Waldo got this shot from across the slot on Saturday

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/36847802940_fd0cfb15e7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97C4f)



clink was all grins on Squeaky. Here he is about to exit the steeps.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36408641454_35c3162da0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtiNDu)



The Seelig route is actually decent but not 5.7. I will get back up there and brush off all the pine needles so people can actually see the holds. It has a spacious bolting pattern. There are many slingable knobs along the way. So many that I ran out of slings and I took 4. The rock was surprisingly good after exhuming much of it from under the piles and piles of pine needles. Did I mention that there were a lot of pine needles?  

Aaron thought it was 5.9. I'll go with that and half a star, which would round up to one. Must have been how they determined the star for Brown Rice and Boogers :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:.

I was glad everyone did not listen when I said strip at the parking lot. They would have froze most of the day like me!
It was windy and cool all day. A high of 72 on the park gauge. Season my arse.  :out: :puke:


Aaron removes the last sling from a knob as he exits the pines on Solotero. Thanks Aaron!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37055541916_69826ea029_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkBJ)

waldo sent me this additional shot of the giggly fun on Squeaky Clean Mud  :yesnod: :lol: :thumbup: :ihih:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37055542476_8441954eda_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkMo)

Cookie Munster is getting biceps from his steep fetish of late.

Dueling JC's on Satyr. Climb bony nubs and horns 110 feet past 4 bolts to a fully erect and exposed summit. Myth or madness?  :lol: :yesnod: :ihih: :devildevil:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/37055141926_afa9640b46_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsrhHm)

  Satyr Pinnacle is a satellite of Goat Rock. A 5.fun romp with a summit that cantilevers over Juniper Canyon. It has an interesting water-chute that we will have to explore next time. Rewarding after a cross country hike in, via the Western Front with KC and JC. A much easier approach can be had from the High Peaks trail. We dared not climb any thing in the Barber Pole area. All pole dancing in that area is on hold for the return a certain individual obsessed with such things.


 There is also a cool looking and seemingly unclimbed pinnacle 150ft SW of Satyr. Disclaimer; the rock quality on it may or may not suck but a route could go. We agreed that we are completely spoiled after the stellar rock quality of late.

 Directly across the valley sits the Shaft.

Let's hope we don't get the Shaft next time we're up there.  :lol:

After that pic you might.

What? :confused: You don't like your horns Goat Boy?!  :lol: :biggrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36407911044_9e3a6de802_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xtf4wd)

while most of that mud looks charmingly lovely, there is tasty rock in the rest of the world.

But ya'll know that... :)

[EDITED FOR VIOLATION OF VOLCANIC CONTENT RULES. THE APPROPRIATE CONTENT VALUES AND WEIRDOS COMMITTEE WILL REVIEW AND DETERMINE WHETHER A TRIP TO YOSEMITE IS REQUIRED TO ROUTE OUT THE INFIDELS. WE NOW RETURN YOU TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAMMING.]










***We control the vertical, we gave up on the horizontal a long time ago.

 Seducer, heretic and infidel.

This is a thread for MUD. How dare you!
 :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :nono: :nono: :nono: :nonod: :nonod: :nonod: :prrr: :prrr: :prrr: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax:

Why does he always look pissed?                        You talkin' to ME?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/36431119763_309eaf4200_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xvi1Ex)

So if Jim or I posted photos of today's class three chute up a 13,500 foot peak, that wouldn't fit either?

Can I at least mention the name? What a great name: Cloudripper Peak.

Unless it involves MUD - get off my lawn! :out: :ciappa: :prrr:

 
 Without freedom of expression how can I berate them?

Berate away. We're leaving after breakfast for another peak in Little Lakes Valley. I look forward to a good beration after we get back.

Sounds like a blast!  Hurry up tho.

To quote Jon Snow "Winter is Coming"

DIE



Just Do It!

Mature cheese.

F#$%ERS closed Sonora Pass and I had to come home over Tioga!




Not much a beration. Way cool summit though this morning. I will however, start another thread in the appropriate sub-section of the forum (one that will cover this and future trips climbing with those friendly people on the Sierra's east side).

look forward to the TR

Look who is talking Mr Special Edition.

Yes it's not like you have an ENTIRE FORUM dedicated to this topic.

And thanks for implying that I am unfriendly.

I'll show ya unfriendly.

Damn, I think I may need some Anger Management.

Much appreciated. 

Not appreciated in the least.

Keep it up and I am going to do something rash.

Hey MUD - can you lock this thread to keep the bozos from jackin?

Oh...wait...you are one of them.

Have you all not heard about the menacing clown ordinance?

Poison oak again? Please don't....

I promise, I'll stick to Pinns-related stuff in this thread, and that I'll start another (short) thread as I indicated. (First I've got to find time, which I will this weekend.)

Your normal PO rash or do you have a new special type?  >:D

 Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?

This Forum was jacked the day it was created.

that's hilarious. I don't know why exactly, but I laughed out loud.

Freaking awesome. sleepless in Seattle.

 :)

Just so you all know, it was my suggestion to ask Mud about this - clink is a THIEF! :lol:

Today’s adventure was dominated by the winds of insanity. There were gusts up to 35mph. Kat led Satyr and then I worked on the rappel anchor. After that, we started a new route across the slot. 2 bolts so far on decent rock in a water streak. The Hedonist. We’ll finish it next time out. Should be a nice addition to Satyr and the other lines we’ve got an eye on out there.  


Kat suns her toes after leading Satyr.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/37073208992_3f3e405e12_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yu2Tqu)



Stance for bolt 1

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/37245189225_19a0fdddc1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKek9V)



Stance for bolt 2

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36407599204_cc2e58a3c1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtdsPE)



Looks like rain may actually put a damper on things tomorrow.

 Sorry to miss that. KC looks happy on Satyr. Did she dangle her feet over the void?

She did not - but she did a great job leading the route and downclimbing the nubs and horns to the revised rappel anchor - part of the new, new way - although no TR FA's were done from the revised anchor  :lol:

I was surprised she stayed up there in the wind while I was working.

Still no rain on the gauge but 60% chance today with winds equal to or stronger than yesterday.

I felt a few tiny drops yesterday on stance but I wasn't deterred from my task.

Looks like it will heat back up and be clear for the work weekend.

Here's Mud in Your Eye!  :ihih: :thumbup:

The rain gauge still has not tipped at Pinns. Unfreakinbelievable!

Wind gusts to 38mph. Lip service from a blow hard.

Should have gone and finished the route!    

That is unbelievable - you'd think they'd a got something out of three straight days of "maybe."

Here at home we've gotten 5 1/2 inches now since Friday!!! That's per the National Weather Service site with the pipper placed right over our house. Damn close to "good riddence fire season" up here in one good storm  :)  :)

We are at close to ten inches. Trees down and there are many minor slides. The transformer on our pole blew, rain extinguished the fire.

That is crazy dudes! Doesn't sound like you'll have to quest very far for mud.
I doubt it's bentonite though - probably smectite or illite.  :ihih:

The Pinns gauge finally tipped after midnight and stopped this am - a whopping .07 inches total.

5:37   14.44   
4:37   14.43   
3:37   14.43   
2:37   14.43   
1:37   14.42   
0:37   14.37   

I finished The Hedonist today. 4 bolts in 95 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. I'll add rappel chains next time out. There is a 4th class route from the anchor to the summit of Goat - EDIT  Old Goat Hoofs It No bolts.. Just kick it old school and walk off.

Same one you had two bolts in on October 15 ("across the slot")?

Old Goat Hoofs It.

That's even better clink. Can I use it?

I wanted to get a first bolt in the water streak but ran out of time.
Let's go Saturday!

PCAD has gotten me stoked on Pinnacles again!  I'm hoping maybe we can get out on Sunday or Monday.  Anyone going to be around the park those days?  JC - maybe I could hit you up for a little beta for Crud and Mud?  It would be nice to get back out there and actually do some of the climbs this time!

With the rains it might stay too wet to get on those shady routes at C&M. You could do Imprint and then go to the east face routes. Full sun on all of those early. Bottoms Up gets sunny after that and it still has not seen a second ascent. That is providing it actually rains this time. I won't be able to check until late tonight when I get home. I can send you my mini guide then too. I'll be hitting something sunny on Saturday with Kat. Probably High Peaks via the west side.

Beanolar (Baby!!) making an early lead of The Barber Pole:

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5646/30769326256_2b37f38719_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5484/30769327736_3707d3b9b3_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5714/30769336326_a10db796fd_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5621/30769337526_99a0944fc8_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5761/30769342206_0ee663299a_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5750/30769346186_4f77995fb3_c.jpg)

J.C on the first ascent of The Barber Pole:

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5624/30769316076_dc4a2f32ba_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5634/30769316856_e65c4e49ee_c.jpg)

And we all get caught in odd poses now and then, right? What's Laura doing in this one:

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5605/30769334526_bb2a346631_c.jpg)

 Admonishing JC for not using chalk like a proper climber?

 Certain reminder of how spoiled I have become lately with good rock quality, helping JC finish up a  5.9+ bit of shit-f#ckery.

 it was Gruff and between JC immediately suggesting it be erased upon topping out and Caleb & Aaron mentioning something about The Anus of History as a name, we had to laugh and move on.

 We found an easy route up the pinnacle 90 feet south of Satyr, by traversing south through the cleft on the west side. A 3rd class scramble up a chute leads to a 4th class move to gain the summit.

Stop fauning over your new route!  :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

The who part is easy. But what the hell is he riding?

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5530/30852251505_6bc042212c_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5573/30764415521_2a70523608_c.jpg)

Dino Rodeo - easy walk out to a hairy straddle. (3rd class?) Bucking could ensue if the San Andreas or one of the local fault splays decides to cut loose while you're up there.

The drop away is farther than illustrated - Pinnacles version of the diving board  :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:

Too bad the Cheese Wall was composed of Limburger and Blue Cheese crumbles. :crazy: :frown2:

Good place for a picnic. :thumbup: :biggrin:

Really? You almost cut your hand off on the broken brush; almost bled to death. Easy?

I thought Blood Bath Rodeo might be a bit extreme.

We should go back up, throw a rope over the nose and simul jug to the underside.
clink could do a hand stand above us!  :lol:

Here is a closeup of my awkward drill stance for bolt 4 on Barber Pole.
It was balancy and really weird - the only good rock within reach was way off to the side.
I could barely hold the drill holder and my hits were tricky and lacked leverage.
My knees were pressed into the wall with my hips spread out and my feet were at odd angles.
Combine that with a big chunk breaking off while I was trying to surface - which meant chiseling a new surface.
That slung knob probably would not have held a fall.

In other words - a really fun time!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/37102156171_6e6b5bb652_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwAfpM)

Here is Brad enjoying his redpoint before we added a bolt to my 30 foot runout.
Another bold maneuver erased for all time.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/36430507953_9bf45f7ce5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XveSN6)

It should be made clear though that "they" added that bolt at the request of the first ascentionists (me and J.C.). It wasn't some random act.

And by the way, can you add a blown up photo of the pants I am wearing in that photo please? That was the fourth time they'd ever been worn. No holes, no rips, no errors   8)

I knew that was coming - surprised you took the bait  :lol:

EDIT: I changed the they to we.

You and I got to lead it as a runout but because we are wise old men we decided not to leave it that way for future generations. Here is something for them - Kat is standing at the stance for what was the original 5th bolt (now the 6th).
I marked the location of the 4th bolt so the horde that flocks to lead this route can see the original distance between bolts.
Of course they could just skip bolt 5  :ihih: :devildevil:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/36395054604_c6442f1c56_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs7aKs)


  

INCONCEIVABLE!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/37054611726_b9c782ea86_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ysoz6Y)

One never knows who's lurking (and will get the wrong idea).



And for the multi-hundreth time, each of us was one broken hold away from that legendary fall. I was perfectly happy to not take it this time  ::)

Closer!

And I want written confirmation that this particular pair of shorts (yes, those are "normal" shorts aren't they?) had no holes except where holes where built into them  ;D

Closer? The resolution won't be worth it.
I will confirm that Brad indeed was wearing pants that had no holes and no patches.
It didn't seem to affect his climbing either. :lol:

And confirm that they were SHORTS too. "Normal" full length shorts.

What? What shorts? I see pants. :biggrin:

Confirms what I always suspected.

People are gonna be jealous of my shorts no matter how long they are.

Getting the first bolt drilled on Gruff 5.9

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4385/36834533330_4b54645fb7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBsS)



lasher and the Cover Girl getting the second bolt in on Gruff

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36834533760_085827d058_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBAh)

The rock on the right hand side of Gruff is as bad as it looks.
Unfortunately some of the stuff on the left side is not so hot either.
I'm not sure if it will evolve into harder or easier terrain as more stuff gets torn off.
It's a shame because the line looks so fun from the ground.
No sense crying over spilled goat's milk - carry on...

lasher got this great shot from Satyr of beanolar leading The Hedonist - 5.3R*

It goes up and right from just below the big grassy hummocks - The Hedonist has hairy armpits  :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/37232636495_91d6a5ddba_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YJ7ZEx)

Retire this one or keep using it?   >:(

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5610/30883714526_892495efe2_c.jpg)

retire

F4 will say, retire it to Mr. Mud. He'll use it.

I thought you said it was a core shot? That looks like sheath damage - although the colors don't look right.

True

It is definitely a core shot. That whiteness one can see in the middle? That's core for sure.

I actually already decided to retire that part of the rope (and use the rest as a half-rope). But I thought it was worth posting the photo.

Actually, it's our beloved Mr. Cummins that might actually use a rope like that. He pushes that envelope with a complete nonchalance that blows me away  :o

Back to the Mud.
Kat and I humped up to the High Peaks yesterday and did a new route on Ridge Crest Rock.
We were quite pleased with the way this route turned out.
It provides a fun and bolted alternative to the 5.2 route in the book - which is not 5.2 by the way.
We also got treated to quite the condor show as they soared and circled overhead for much of the day.

Here is an overview shot of the route. The first bolt is at the top of the exposed rib/bridge that leads to the fun slab.
Across the Great Divide 5.5*

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/36407197744_47595bdc70_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtbptW)



Two more bolts and a big sling knob  protect moves up the slab and then over the bulge.
Here is Kat with the knob slung and the last bolt clipped - contemplating the moves over the bulge.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/36407197514_6a543b46e7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtbppY)



Once over the bulge, you join the upper part of the existing route - sorry - no more bolts.
There is however, an anchor with rappel rings now.
Kat nears the summit to finish the coveted 2nd ascent and another snaking of Brad  :lol: :lol: :lol:  :nono: :rolleyes: :out: :crazy: :devildevil: :ihih:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/36407197194_d9eca8e822_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xtbpjs)

100 feet of fun climbing to a huge summit with nice views.

Several groups were headed up the Juniper Canyon trail as we were headed down - no doubt questing for the super moon.
It was shining bright as we departed the parking area and headed home.
The view of the moon got snuffed by fog as soon as we got to 101.

Looks familiar. I think I soloed that back when i was doing guidebook research.  :P  :P

Wilderness  Wickedness.^^^

Yep. I figured that or it was on your legal pad.  ::) :idea: :yawn:

Actually neither. But I get pissy when I'm deprived of "my" second ascent  ::)

How did you guys approach ridge rock? I was just on the other side for part of the day yesterday and did not see you walk in from the outhouse.  I did take a nap for a bit. Too funny.

Do tell

We went in past Beak around 10ish. Kat was asking about you on the hike from the Outhouse.
I too wondered what you might be up to and was talking about the 100 foot slab you said you found for us a while back.
We hiked out around 4:00.

You wouldn't mind if you saw how happy Kat was to get a new lead and a 2nd ascent  :thumbup: :biggrin:

Been gettin' after this thing since late yesterday afternoon - hoping to finish it tomorrow with Brad and clink.
Kat got this money shot today of me getting up to set up drilling the 4th bolt. Pretty fun climb so far.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/37059852822_b4a454fcd5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRr6G)

Hanging on a sling on the mongo-big lodestone, drilling bolt four:

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5775/31404306975_b95850d260_c.jpg)

Looks good

They are well along on the new trail from the West Side Visitors Center to lower West Side parking (I didn't even know they'd started building it!!):

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5476/31035477400_408c1a32db_c.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5786/31035526830_b47af1e181_c.jpg)

Drilling the first bolt:

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5601/31035488330_9bf9170aed_c.jpg)

We worked again today with clink but still didn't quite get finished - we are close!
Brad should have some good shots of clink since I spent most of my time today belaying.

Brad drilling bolt 5

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36394458234_c340b655f2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47td)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/36394457364_d5c2eaf018_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47dd)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/37059854432_af8b47bd68_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRrzs)



Me drilling bolt 7

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36394457264_442529776d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47bu)



clink got in bolts 8 and 9. It sounds like the anchor may be next...just a bit higher.

 These nuts roped me in despite my knowing full well that these are the same two guys who climbed on Flies on a Pile. The roulette aspect of the route diminished each time the designated masochist went up for a  new bolt. Out of my comfort zone but a rewarding experience nevertheless.

 Brad was needing stuff, he trailed a rope to enable the procurement of various items. While sending up a socket, sling, or biners, JC moved upwards causing Brad to suddenly drop a couple of feet, causing spontaneous excitement.   ;D

 We were uncertain of the end of route but the rock outside the chute at the top was relatively solid with big holds allowing a cool exit onto the headwall at the top. 12 feet to go?

 Thanks guys for the invite.

 

Not just cool, really cool:

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5688/31322960461_cd9deacbf8_c.jpg)


Meanwhile, 100 feet up and right, these guys were waiting for a mistake:

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5704/31068387860_5dd22c310a_c.jpg)



Any time.

Brad was kind enough to demonstrate a proper attentive belay later while I was drilling.(photo by clink)  :lol:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37059856802_a1b87650a2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRshj)

P.S. In my defense - Brad already had the bolt in, partially tightened and clipped.

I had an unwelcome thrill when the main knob I was hanging on to drill started disintegrating right in front of my eyes. It started spontaneously fracturing like thin ice in a cartoon and the bottom half fell away. In horror and a bit panicked, I started searching for something else to sling above me and all the available choices were loose. Luckily there was still one good knob just above the one that failed, so I went all in on that one and managed to finish the bolt.   

We all had a thrill later when clink was up high drilling from a taxing stemming stance with the wind howling and a condor flew right over his head!
No pic of that but how bout one of clink in that stance?

Damn, busted. But, after all, I was just learning on the job....

I've got a few of him drilling in that stance. They'll have to wait until I get home though.

Yeah,  J.C. stood up while I was on tension through his Gri Gri. Simulated fall  :o



Normal people would downclimb to regroup if/when a slung knob starts to disintegrate while in use.

Not our bull-near-a-red-flag J.C. He started by throwing the chunks of disintegrated knob off in disgust. Then he charged HIGHER to rest. I tried to stay calm as I insisted that he downclimb for at least a short time to regroup (and, surprise, surprise, he actually listened to me!).

All part of the excitement.

Yes...you stayed calm in both instances. Not me. I get tourette's when I am on lead.

Is this near a climb that Brad, Mud and I did on the high peaks trail from Juniper side?

No specifics required, just wondering out loud.

Looks intriguing, but tales of loose rock? I'm going back to Twinkle Toes for awhile.

No, no-where near Operation Pinnacles Freedom. We haven't redpointed it yet, so no description here (and you weren't asking me for one). Call me or email if you want to know right where it is.

And the amount of loose rock is about normal for a new Pinns route. It's got a lot of good rock that is staying put, it's steep for the grade, it's a longer route (end point will be at about 85 feet?), the finish is even steeper (and exposed), and it's in a very, very scenic spot. Although it isn't done yet, I'm thinking at least one star, maybe two.

That is so wrong and I'm still laughing.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5592/31068395040_c0abb9e865_c.jpg)

He looks like he's levitating at that stance - what a weird aspect compared to what I could see from my belay position - brings to mind the baby butt wipes from the other thread  :lol: :ciappa:

Sorry but we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.
Of all the new routes I've been in on in the last couple years this rates at the bottom of the list for rock quality.
It is surprisingly bad for being in a water streak.
I have never seen such a poor degree/lack of cementation in some of the rock along the sides - which luckily isn't necessary for upward progress. The band of "good" rock is extremely narrow and even a good percentage of that is bad or suspect. In some spots it is like a pile of sand with cobblestones sitting in it.

Some of the movement is interesting and the location is nice but I would say no stars. No way.

 
 After questioning Brad about the "rock quality" factor on star routes at Pinns I am beginning to understand (he is crazy) that rock quality is not necessarily a must for a star. The "5.7" section on the first part of your route was weird with side pulls and pinches. I felt as insecure on it as on early ascents of Balconies chutes. The climbing is moderate, gets steep and puzzling. Exiting the chute was (like) cool (really). It is fairly well protected but because it ungulates you could bust an ankle on the crux.

 I thought about the whole experience  today, the hike in and out, listening to you two's banter, seeing Climberdude rope soloing across the little valley, going down by myself to check out the pretty or precious stones cliff, and the close encounter with the curious condor.


     "Juke Box Hero"

Standing in the rain, with his head hung low
Couldn't get a ticket, it was a sold out show
Heard the roar of the crowd, he could picture the scene
Put his ear to the wall, then like a distant scream

He heard one guitar, just blew him away
He saw stars in his eyes, and the very next day
Bought a beat up six string in a secondhand store
Didn't know how to play it, but he knew for sure

That one guitar, felt good in his hands
Didn't take long, to understand
Just one guitar, slung way down low
Was one way ticket, only one way to go

So he started rockin'
Ain't never gonna stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
Someday he's gonna make it to the top

And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero
He took one guitar, juke box hero, stars in his eyes
Juke box hero, he'll come alive tonight

In a town without a name, in a heavy downpour
Thought he passed his own shadow, by the backstage door
Like a trip through the past, to that day in the rain
And that one guitar made his whole life change

Now he needs to keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top

And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Yeah, juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
With that one guitar he'll come alive
Come alive tonight

Yeah, he's gotta keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top

And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Just one guitar, put stars in his eyes
He's just a juke box hero, aah aah aah
Juke box hero, juke box hero, he's got stars in his eyes
Stars in his eyes


 Get Waldo's opinion.

Replace the star system with the little guy from the chronicle movie reviews.  He could be asleep or clapping ecstatically . Just add some rock projectiles raining down on him when needed.

Thanks for the input clink but you never said if you think it is star worthy.
I like your use of ungulates - you old goat.
I think rock quality should definitely be a factor.
I look at that plus interesting movement/challenge/excitement, exposure, fun factor. Sometimes things like uniqueness of a formation or a great summit come into play but those should be secondary imo.

An argument could be made for Barber Pole based on length, challenging moves, exposure and definitely a cool summit. If Hoof It gets a star then so does Barber Pole imo. No way either of them should get more than one and based on overall rock quality, Barber Pole is a better candidate. Tough call. Gut reaction is neither gets a star.

I am requisitioning for a name change - On a Hoof and a Prayer (since Hoof It was my name anyway)

That's How the Feta Crumbles

Quested for Mud with Brad and Jon today to celebrate Brad's birthday. We finished the climb and Brad and I both led it. I got the coveted 2nd ascent without having to snake anyone! :lol:
clink got another new line started before we had to beat the darkness. We all had a fun day.



Brad heads up for the redpoint of Hoof It 5.8*

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/37059853982_cd388401c3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRrrG)


Brad finding a good spot for the anchor

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/36394457754_654a345d9f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47jW)



clink gets the new line going - we'll call it Shades of David Spade for now

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/37059901422_377cf3f400_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRFxC)



and this is for Brad from the cultural attache - Eyegor choosing the brain of Hans Delbruck

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36394529264_c12eab49b5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs4tzS)

Nice line for a nice bday day! HBD!

 Yes it was Munge, warm and dry. Last Sunday the chute was dripping and Brad managed to make it up a few bolts before bailing. At this point I suggested the name of Wet Thwarts, but he wouldn't deviate from Hoof It. Looking at the forecast Brad decided to do a one day blast. Meet in Prunedale at 11am, hike to base of climb by 1ish, back to Prunedale by 6pm. I don't know if you have noticed but some days Brad climbs with finesse and others like a gorilla. His anchor was artistic.

 On the hike in JC and Brad pointed out a cherry section of rock they had found. We had enough time to taste test it on the way out. So good! Looks like Gavin territory to the right.

 

It was. The rock had almost totally dried out - just a hint of damp in a couple spots. The line ended up climbing pretty nice. It is committing to get to the first bolt - 5.6 or 7 (somewhat height dependent). I think we all agreed that it has two distinct cruxes - getting past the first bolt and then again between 5 and 6. I thought they were about equal in difficulty(5.7) but Brad and clink both thought the upper one was 5.8. It has some pretty interesting movement and nice stemming in a couple spots. The moves to bolt 8 provide exposure and some cool holds - followed by a fun path to the last bolt and then the anchor. The anchor is in a nice spot and equalized perfectly. 90 feet of climbing. The overall rock quality could be better but there are enough good holds between the questionable stuff. It keeps your attention from bottom to top with some nice rests.


Anchor on Hoof It
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36394457094_193b72c909_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs478y)

clink's post makes me want to delete mine  :lol: :biggrin:

Nice work, gang. I think I remember looking at this area with Brad earlier in the year, especially where clink is drilling in the photo. I'll have to revisit with folks in 2017!

What can I say? Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't.

It has a lot to do with whether I've warmed up and how cold it is outside.

Yesterday? Yesterday I didn't feel a day over 56  :P

It is unbelievable to me that you would remember this. And very impressive.

After the J.C.s got into my car to finish the drive I listened to a last bit of a "Hardcore History" podcast by Dan Carlin (the podcast was "Wrath of the Khans," about Ghengis Khan - highly, highly recommended!).

During the five minutes I listened, the podcast referred to an opinion about the mongols by Hans Delbruck, a respected historian from the 1800s (the podcast called him "brilliant" I think).

J.C. heard the reference and then immediately said something like: "Hans Delbruck. Isn't his the brain that Eyegor doesn't take in the movie Young Frankenstein?" Totally out of the blue.

His reference above shows that yes, that was the brain Eyegor did not take. Wow, cultural attache indeed! Cultural attache extrordinaire is more like it.

While the analytical portion of JC's brain is almost average, the storage capacity behind that forehead must be immense. :D

I guess my analytical skills parallel my footwork.

Oh and by the way...DIE

Brad works on Hoof It anchor

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/36394457654_a1b62c0218_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47id)



clink follows Hoof It

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36394457444_392f2e7378_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47eA)

Rainy day...anchors away  :lol: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/37089188471_b6464d33eb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvrMyK)

Making chains for snow trecking on the unicycle?

That new helmet makes you look like you have juvenile horns Mr Satyr  :lol: :out: :yesnod: :ihih: :devildevil:

What am I? Chopped Liver?

Not the route you showed me. Right of where I bouldered  Dumdum.

Sunny forecast, we are going to have to get on that good rock Cookie.

Let's go.
No rain today.
The forecast is that Santa Choss is comin' to town :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:

Now, um, what am I chopped liver? I spotted the line first and I'm in on the FA. Pick a day on the 28th or later and we'll go then.

 Twas the night before Christmas and all about the Park,
 Noal and Mud were still climbing,
 an hour after dark.
 All of the other climbers were listening for meal numbers being called at the Super Taqueria,
 Mud refuses to eat there,
 it gives him ...

 Merry Christmas y'all!

 JC, ever heard of the 12 days of stealing Brad's routes? You distract him while I grab the white legal pad inscibed with his secret list.>:D

Duuude - that belly laugh was better than any present!  :lol: :lol: :lol:


We only have 3 days starting tomorrow... :eeeek: :devildevil:

Dats alotta chain

clink working on bolt 1 of Mr Mud Goes to Washington

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4345/36834532810_acd0d1fd03_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBiU)



Geoff Takes a break while working on bolt 2

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36834533410_61161aa132_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBuf)



Should we change the name to Scout Peek?

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/37041876976_e2951eb6d8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yrgivj)



beano leads The Best Part of Wakin Up

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/37089265671_32ffce5e7d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvsbvM)

Is that Resurrection backside?

Nope. Piedras Bonitas and beano is on Coffee Can

bolts need to be higher!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

; )

 Mud, but what counts is that your nearly death and maiming routes are in view from Mr. Mud Goes to Washington.

 Also, when the cat's away...

 Bolt three is in, the crack and chimney may be in reach, or not.

  :)

gotta love those Pinnacles chimneys, they are something special.

Saw a couple folks on their way to Crud and Mud today.

clink did most of the talking up ahead of us on the trail.

Here's mud in your eye!

We went to the hinterlands and had some fun.

 Exploring, roulette, a few bolts, pin and tricam placements. Found about 8 route possibilities along the base of a formation. Slabs on left to knobs on right.

 Noal, Mud and Gavin's names were mentioned a few times as we walked under steeper(not 5.9) areas.

 Primrose Pinnacle fit the description perfectly. Brad, Jim and Joel found a Pinnacles pinnacle.

It is a cool climb.


True and felt like the fun kind of exposure.

You did look like a toddler having playtime

Maybe it was the swaddling nature of your cuddly belay  :lol:

I've been away from the forums for a while, so it's nice to see that all y'all are still up to the usual shenanigans!  Definitely missing Pinnacles looking at your pictures as I huddle inside during the snow and cold of Northern Colorado.  It's supposed to be warmish this weekend though, so maybe I'll be able to get outside climbing finally - can't let you guys have all of the fun in California!  ;)

Duuuuuude. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Hey Scott! Great to have you check in!

beano leads the Anvil

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/36831177630_349fe915c0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpVY)



beano and KC – It was THIS BIG!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36831551940_92542c6de8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7FkcA)


Narrowly escaping the clutches of a rampaging beano

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/36831175660_0d2221247f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Dpm1)



beano leads Pipsqueak

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36414871783_c464be05b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJGX)



Check out the differences in our climbing styles on Primrose Pinnacle (me, then clink)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36831551490_313af05112_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Fk4Q)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4425/36414871323_0f5ea8c796_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJz2)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/36831551080_0e1da36453_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7FjWL)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36414870993_bfc39e0c3e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJtk)

Most excellent!  I feel like I'm right there with you...minus the second picture that is.  I can skip that one (so big and scary!). =)

Good times, Cookies!

More crud, once this rain lets up!!

 JC  had his back to the camera for all the Primrose shots. Hiding a stupid grin no doubt.

Watch who you are calling stupid boy  :ihih: :devildevil:

Ready to go. Rain Rain Go Away.

Kat and I went to the Toes yesterday.
We climbed the South Toe and then I replaced the lead bolt and the anchor.

Here is what the NWS calls a mostly sunny day

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/37086192561_16287d9df7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvbqZ8)



Here is the old anchor. Notice the homemade hanger and huge space under the allen drop-in bolt. Whoever rapped off this bolt last used up one of their cat lives.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/37038563226_9e9a9d6b6b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqYjrG)



Someone added an anchor bolt. As far as I could tell, it is a stainless sleeve bolt with a no name brand stainless hanger. It had a 3/8 screw link and a carbon steel rap ring. I loosened it and rotated the hanger to equalize with my ASCA replacement bolt and tightened it back down. It was flush and tight, so I decided it should be okay with my replacement bolt. If anyone knows anything about it, it would be nice to know the history. I added a screwlink and single link of chain to my bolt.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/37057454532_d4c0eb02cb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsD9aS)



After I replaced the anchor I decided to replace the lead bolt. The lead bolt is three quarters of the way up the route, not about halfway up as stated in the guidebook. It was a short 3/8 star dryvin with the sleeves incorrectly installed under the Leeper hanger. The nail came out with almost no effort after getting it started with the tuning fork. The sleeves and lead sleeve slipped out easily, all in one piece.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36831175140_d2e74c6663_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Dpc3)



I plan to go back and rebolt the anchor on the North Toe on our next trip out.  
I could only see one old bolt on the North summit with a piece of tied cord and an old oval biner.
The hanger looks like a Leeper.

Kat, beano and I climbed and rebolted North Toe today.
I'll post more details and some pics later.
Beauty of a day with many condors giving us a show throughout the day.

Here's a couple pics from yesterday.

The climbing for the North Toe is the same as the South Toe route up to the only protection bolt.
Things get interesting when you turn about face and commit to the North Toe's face.

I'm still quite a few chimney moves below the only bolt – North Toe/South Toe - thanks to beanolar for getting this pic.
You can scroll back two posts to my labeled pic to see where the bolt is. Neither of the gals wanted to lead this climb.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36831175410_af07b239fb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpgG)



beano doing the Toe jam – this is the squeeziest squeeze chimney we’ve done in a while

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4359/37038562426_33f7436896_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqYjcU)



KC follows North Toe – I thought this was a scary lead because the only protection bolt is across on the South Toe (behind you) and way below you by the time you are doing the crux moves on the North Toe's face. The crux moves on the North Toe also depend on a single good knob (her right hand is on it) providing you are willing to go all in. If that sucker ever breaks, the climb will be a lot harder. My exact words were - If this knob goes, I'm gone. This is another Pinns no fall route. It deserves an R imo.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/36831176470_8fb2110521_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpzY)

OMG FUN climb!! Too bad it's too scary to lead, at least for this bean. Glad John took the bullet for us, and swapped out the old junky hw. We need more chimneys!!

Chimneys hmmmmm.......get JC to climb OCD Overdrive with you. It has one of his favorite chimneys.

 Athletes toe jam ;D

Duuuuude  :lol:

You don't have to jam toes but just about everything else. It is tough getting through that squeeze. Even my harness waist belt was catching and my back loop. Put what little bit of gear you need on the left side or you're sunk.

beano tried the rap line on North Toe on TR.
clink - you should unlock the sequence and get it clean for the TR FA of Toe Cheese  :lol: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin: :puke:

I developed a bad toothache today but I have a plan to get rid of it soon. :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :yikes:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4434/37038456996_29544d2368_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqXLS9)

I shared a Mud Bath today with Brad.

Kat and I got in after they got out  :yikes:

Brad and clink proceeded to get Squeaky Clean, followed that up by rolling around in Ashes and topped it off by buffing it out to an adamantine finish  :lol:

P.S. POW!!!

JC left a ring.

 Mud Bath was well worth the wait and the effort. Crazy good rock! It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.

 Brad's second bolt of the day was an awkward, bend to the side, and drill with your left hand, because the rock at shoulder height and up from the stance wasn't premium sounding. He had to down climb to the previous bolt many times to unkink, great effort. Where were Jim, Steve or Caleb when you need them? My stances were cushy.

Thanks for the invite but I needed a summit and a mellow day with KC.

Mud Bath is a fine addition to the crag.

Pow! is done and from what we could see today Brad finished Boom! as well.

Trouble at Rubble continues to confound and perplex.

Spent a nice day with Waldo and Kat.

Onomatopoeia Pinnacle

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36413625743_8e7db477e9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtKmiv)


Pow! Starts on an exposed knobby face next to a protectable crack, goes past a short headwall (and a bolt), and finishes with optional sling knobs on very low angle slab. This was my drill stance.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/36390824484_e5c286f7ee_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJuhm)



View from the summit of Pow!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4373/37056324342_6c88e77884_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsxmcQ)



Clink working on the last bolt on Mud Bath

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4423/37085430291_815492e9be_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv7wox)

Ewwwww!



I watched J.C. lead Mud Bath from above (I was on rappel and just hanging out). I gotta say, it really was a pleasure to watch; at an age when many of his peers use canes just to walk, he floats up Pinnacles rock so smoothly. Truly a master of his medium.

(And I can make the comment about age because I am right, right behind him in years.)

Brad - I heard you popped in a bolt, made a few moves and Boom! you were done.  :lol:


One more of Pow!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36390824184_d523c5564d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJucb)

You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.

One exclamation point or two?

One seems to be the standard.

I went up and right from the end of the crack to get on the slab.
It looked like you could also go out and left - then up on knobs - but it didn't flow as naturally that way from where I was after placing the bolt.

Was Boom! any fun?

I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.

Man, you're fast. Pop quiz: what other route on the list did I make a change to this morning?

Working on the Boom! description (and all the others). The first sentence to the Boom! description will be something like: "The only redeeming quality of this route is the tremendous exposure of the first moves." Or something like that.

I could see on Pow! going up and right, but I went left and then up. Both seem like they would be about the same. I thought maybe about giving the route an "R," but the sling knobs above (at least three possibilities) really were good to pretty good. So probably not an "R?"

Will I be hearing anything about how your Sunday went?

BTW, I led this with Laura following (Cover Girl). But I failed to read my own route description about the gear size and so I had stuff that was too small to use. But I was able to sling two good knobs and one great knob before going over the headwall. After climbing the route, I'm quite sure that the "party crashers" climbed the same path.

I'll guess - Unlikely-looking bulge on Mud Diamond?


I thought you might go left. It's pretty enticing. I think the right variation might be slightly harder, based on the size of the holds. It felt natural to continue up the ramp as the crack pinches out and then transition onto the slab (5.4?) Those knobs out left are really big. Were they solid? There is also a really good sling knob to the right of my stance for the bolt. I thought about just going with that and not placing the bolt. In the end I felt it would be irresponsible given the exposure and fall potential. I think the bolt is right where you want it.
I just couldn't bring myself to place another bolt on that low angle terrain above and wasn't convinced the moves were hard enough to warrant an R (close call). Kat didn't want to lead it. I am not sure either of those two lower knobs would hold a fall. The last/higher one would but you are almost touching the top by then. Take another look at my pics and you can see my slings.


Not much to report. Lots of PO up there on the lower approach path.
I turned back and no one else even wanted to go down there.
The two big towers are easy to get to but still looked very unappealing and no one was feeling it.
We could see you on Ono.

Nice try. Nope, I changed the Merry Poppins description a little since I walked by it on Sunday.

^^^^

Funny though, the two guys you sent to Crudn'Mud on Sunday agreed wholeheartedly with that part of the Mud Diamond description (as you'll see once I get the new routes up, I climbed with them yesterday). They looked up at that bulge and thought "no way." They were tickled as hell at how it then climbed.

We thought 5.3 was just right. And the bolt is in the right place. Without the one bolt, a broken hold could result in a 60 foot fall from halfway up a 35 foot route (off the cliff face to the right). One bolt is just the correct number for that climb.

Did you get anything climbed at all?

Should I take a research/rebolting day and go up there with you? If so should we wait until next season (when the P.O. is dormant)?

Rubles in the Rubble.

I saw no rubies, just rubble. I need to hear how Brad got up and down that thing without crashing!

I checked my journal. I'd thought I did those near Thanksgiving of 1996 (because I recall hiking up there with Vicki and Katie and Katie was in the kiddie pack). It was actually November 23, 1997 (so Katie would have been just two years old). I have no memory of those routes.

And actually, I do recall a few things. Being surprised at how easy the approach was (from above). Carriage bolts for anchors on one (?) of the Teeth (no hangers if I recall - I later saw similar aid bolts on The Shaft). I remember doing the Teeth first and saving the 5.7 for last. Free soloing that with a backpacked rope on my back wasn't too bad, but committing to the rappel on whatever the anchor was at the top of that really frightened me (but I didn't have much choice at that point).

I also recall the film canister I found (I think on one of the Teeth). The notes were so fragile that they started cracking when I tried to unroll them. Rather than put them back, I brought them home and photo-copied them. I may have those copies around somewhere, but I'm not sure where.

I didn't expect to get any insight into the area but thanks for looking.
It looks like it is my choss to bear.
Noal will like the tat that is on the West Tooth - looks like the same thing he found at Knifeblade.
I still need to go back there too.

Hemp Noose.  Can you post up a photo of that thing?  It's super cool.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/37056986732_670646138a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsAK7m)

Would you rappell off of that even when it was new? 

 Suitable as a gift at a coming out party for your skeleton.

 Bone Voyage.

Reminds me a an actual noose randomly hanging from a tree up on the third tier of Chipmunk Flat's Third Buttress. It's the weirdest thing; it made the hair on the back of my neck stand out.

 It may catch on as a defendant's tie in death penalty cases, to play on jury sympathy.

Damn you J.C., you plant a bug and I end up wasting an entire evening. I found them!! They were in the attic in a huge box marked "Pinnacles Guidebook, notes and redundant stuff."

Here are photocopies of the notes I made just after I climbed the Rubble Wall routes (I sent my originals to David Rubine, author of the then most current Pinnacles guidebook):

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2896/33592173436_97e8839491_b.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3783/33249409630_7443a92805_b.jpg)


(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3845/33249410940_2ac4bd57a3_b.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2866/33249411760_ffeeda19c5_b.jpg)


(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2929/33249412370_e9ae4cd5c1_b.jpg)


(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2822/33249413110_483a6f1811_b.jpg)

And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?

Notice too that I renamed the teeth (in the '07 book) from Rubine's guide into "directional" names that were consistent with what the first ascent party used.

 What was your drug of choice? It is truly a miracle that you have thus far survived 1,000 Pinns routes.

 

almost all those routes were kind of scary.  I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much.  good views though

And don't forget the ultimate irony of my climbing career: The only time I got well and truly creamed was while climbing on Yosemite Valley granite.

I didn't know you'd done those. When? Back in the olden days when you routinely soloed lots of Pinns routes? (It's hard to believe that you were even crazier back in the day than you are now.)

J.C. has a stubborn streak (well NOOOOO sh#t). I suspect we'll be hearing about new (as in replacement) bolts and anchors and maybe even new routes up there in the near future....

 Soon after his asylum escape.  Who knows what other history you share :)

It is definitely a loose pillar and not a shoulder. Standing on top of it to commit to the face with no pro looks terrifying.
Maybe it looks worse than it is - yeah right.

The note about Incisor confirms that you go to the end of the slot and then around and on to the east face/blunt arete - exactly as I suspected.

The notes about the bolts on the West Tooth leads me to believe that there are two and the bolt I can see with the tat is the anchor, even though it is not quite on the top - it is pretty darn close. That would also make sense based on the way the true top looks. The lead bolt probably can't be seen until you are closer and actually in the notch.
I don't think you would have said halfway up in reference to that bolt with the tat.

Thanks for digging that stuff out and taking the time to post it. Really cool to see the history.  :yesnod: :thumbup:

Man, you're in rare form tonight.

I can just see you drinking chocolate milk and making Martha wonder what the hell it is you keep chuckling about at the computer.

Yeah, I went up there a couple of time solo with the 9.  I seem to remember one pinnacle was close to the plateau rock slab area.  I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage. 

I also came across a stack of printed out emails from Jack Holmgren (about 1/4 inch thick!). I only glanced at them though since they weren't what I was looking for.

I skimmed over the one where I essentially beg him to just use the name David Rubine had assigned to one of his routes in the 1995 book (Rubine called it "Prelude"). Jack's email basically says "nope." The name was and is "You Climb That Hill No Matter How Steep But You Still Ain't Goin' Nowhere."

A rare display. Thank you for living to see another day....

still wrestle with it, but yeah, probably best I did not go for it.

 To the few of you who pursue these particular routes, I reserve my highest admiration accompanied with a large helping of skepticism as to your sanity.

I looked at that too. Stick It!

Bomber


I guess you didn't want to discourage anybody.

For those in the audience that are Bicurious :lol: - this is the loose, outward-tilting pillar on Bicuspid.
It looks pretty good from this angle  :yikes:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/36414134883_f281a0a909_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtMXDM)

 I hope you aren't planning on any leaps next weekend .

Hiking, climbing, drilling, no leaping  :frown2: :nonod: :crazy: :out:

KC and I headed out today to make the rounds.
We intended to climb False Flatiron, Boom! and Party Crasher.

We hiked up to False Flatiron via the Little Flatiron/Toadstool approach.


I climbed the new class 4 route first, slinging a few knobs along the way.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/37228713425_7c1f2ed0b9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHLTtp)



My wandering eye was checking out the slab to the left of the class 4 route and in particular a prominent hole about 2/3 of the way up. I thought about just climbing to that hole and putting in a bolt, but decided in the end to do a 2 bolt route.
EDIT - the first bolt was removed later (2-9-18) along with the only bolt on Pity the Fool (both routes are now R). We decided the bolts were just too close to the original 4th Class route.


Drilling the first bolt. Check out that hole up and left for the next stance. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/37056584642_157af3ff6e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsyFzL)



The climb starts 3 feet left of the groove used for the class 4 route. Climb to a giant lodestone and the first bolt. A few moves get you into a prominent hole.


Working on the second bolt.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36830688030_f0a5d268ed_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7AUoA)



Climb past the second bolt to the top, courtesy of some nice knobs and divots.

Here is KC at the second bolt, enjoying the coveted 2nd ascent and a salute to clink. :lol:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4390/37228712815_7b25c8dfc9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHLThT)

Falsetto Slab 5.2* :ihih:

 Yosomighty and Clink the wide angle ran up some classic beauties, Portant, Ordeal, Swallow and did the damp and mossy Piton Traverse route for the first time. Those pins are decaying.

 Caleb pulled Ali Baba onsight without pumping off or z-clipping at the crux. Sinbad was a first for him as well. Showed up late and left by 3:30. Very unMud&Noallike of us, and quite civilized. We saw Beauty and the Orange Beast in the parking area and received the anticipated and now expected end of the day report   Nice bunch of climbers out at Bear Gulch!

 :)

And there's my silly record, shattered again. ;D  ::)

It'll be a while too before I have a chance to catch it up. And no doubt meanwhile other nefarious spies and mudmasters will continue their good work....

Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots  :lol:

We talked to two lads on the way out and showed them the Regular Route on the Monolith. They were looking for something fun to finish their day. They had evidently been hanging with you guys earlier. They described you perfectly (with a little help from yours truly). :yesnod: :lol:

Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.


 Yes, and a rack of fresh replacement pins.

It is our pleasure to buck any status quo. Maintaining the status quo would be like climbing at...well...you know where...:lol:

New pitons? That would be nice if you'd like to donate to the cause and place them professionally.

Roper also says you can protect Bicuspid with pitons. I don't see how.

I can think of worse ways to spend my time....

I miss my knickers.

courtesy of waldo

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36390824354_37d60fe3f3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJuf7)


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


It's a bit upthread at this point

for clink

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37056013812_a58d3777d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKTS)

Thanks, the color needs photo shop though.

I did an auto contrast - is the lilac better now?


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37056013812_a58d3777d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKTS)

Hey guys, the conversation is taking a pretty shitty turn here....

  Herchel Berchel

that is a cool route.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_925a6e4e93_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)

So very cool!

where

In the Heart of Pinnacles  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:

Happy Birthday JC! You are petrifying well!

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday!

Thanks guys. I had a nice night out with Kat - pulled plastic for a bit, had a spicy pizza and a powerful ale at the local eatery followed by a hefty slice of Red Velvet cake from the Buttery here at home. Yum!  :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

I'm always joking about Birdbrain Pinnacle and I remember Brad asked me one day not too long ago if I had actually been on top of it. I forgot that I had these pictures from the day I climbed it. Not the best angle since it is hidden behind the platform but valid nonetheless. The second picture shows how exposed it was that day when the res was waaaaaay down.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4365/36830173010_134e46aed1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7yghW)



(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/37085196421_e42018e068_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv6jSi)

When the res goes dry it will have to go from the base.

Fun day out today.
We started the morning with an intense, old school Spasm, Crashed a Party after lunch and ended with a Grand Adventure  :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:

new rating system

Res -1
Res -2
etc

for how many feet below the bathtub ring the ascent started.

with a W or D modifiers for a wet swim in, vs dry ascent.

For example,

Res -15, W, from the dam side. That would be proud.

If said route is done, call it Frankly My Deer.

Meanwhile the Easter Bunny has been busy, the cat also left a large mouse on the steps.

In the spirit of Get Off My Lawn, Silt the F Up. :lol:

Looks like it may have been a good day to hit the High Peaks today.
Overcast and windy but no rain so far.
It has been raining pretty steadily here on the coast.
We had a nice breakfast with our climbing daughters (Rosie and Alex).
Looks like a lazy day and a good time to post some Crud.
 
It was busy yesterday with the free admission and holiday weekend.
We talked to some nice hikers and a few climbers  :biggrin:

I have never worked so hard to get a climb done at Pinnacles. I estimated 15 times bouldering up and down this thing trying to unlock the sequence. Kat said it might have been closer to 20. It was awkward, balancy and burly all at the same time, on insecure key holds. After my first series of 5 or 6 attempts I rested and Kat took a turn.

Kat changes her shoes to take a crack at Spasm Block. She was soooo close to unlocking the sequence but couldn’t quite conjure up the oooomph or the nerve to pull through. I was very proud of her for trying.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36390231634_5f799dee1a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFs3N)



We kept looking at the holds and talking about it. What a great puzzle.
We are not boulderers.
I honestly did not think I could do it and then it happened.  

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/36390231204_147a6863bc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFrVo)



We headed back to Junction Rock and I led Party Crasher.
Kat got this weird shot of me testing and moving over to find the sling knobs after I placed 3 pieces of gear in the short section of horizontal. I got in a so so number 2 camalot, a pretty good .75 camalot and a slotted and buried green alien and equalized them. Moving past the sling knobs over the headwall was fun and is definitely the crux. A fall further up before the only bolt would be disastrous but the climbing through that section is easy, albeit filthy.  :crazy:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36390348744_6986c8c10d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrG3RW)



Kat decided to lead A Grand Adventure after she followed Party Crasher. She climbed solid and enjoyed the route.
We had a really fun day and the weather was great.  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/37055657552_1fc4253b23_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVZs)

 Mostly runny.

I showed up at noon and explored while it was dry and as soon as I began climbing up a line it started raining.  Been a while getting slicked out. Nice saturated hike back.


  Sweet :)

I was chuckling after we talked, thinking about you standing up on those big knobs drilling a bolt in the rain  :lol:
The rain gauge started tipping there at 3:30 and only lasted a couple hours, just enough to mess with you but obviously not enough to dampen your spirits  :thumbup: :biggrin:

Crack on Spasm Block

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/36390231434_329fccc9bc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFrZm)



closeup of Crack on Spasm Block

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/37084720171_e79abb88dc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv3Ti6)

5.7

 :)

Needs bolts!

Fighting my way past the trees on Pyramid Pinnacle

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37055656992_6b4a734936_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVPN)



Kat follows Pyramid Pinnacle

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37227835545_7dc8bed24a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHGovx)



rap off Pyramid Pinnacle

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/37055657242_efc654d580_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVU7)

cool

Heard on the radio today that some scientists published an article in Nature presenting evidence that neanderthals were in California 130,000 years ago. Of course they didn't bolt any routes back then but it sounds like they had fun smashing up the bones of a mastodon to suck out the marrow and use the splintered remains as pitons  :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: .

This topic doesn't neatly fit into any other threads (and it might not be worth its own). So I'm putting it here.

"They" say that Pinnacles is dangerous because of loose rock. Maybe it is. But at least loose rock at Pinnacles is usually too small to kill.

When I got creamed in 1999 it was because of a "50 or 100 pound block" that came off with me. This was in Yosemite Valley. On granite. The "good" rock. How often do blocks that size come off at Pinns?

Here's the latest from this last weekend at Tahquitz Rock (near Idyllwild in southern California). Tahquitz has great granite and great, great climbs. It's also one of the most historic climbing venues in our country. And I don't mean any criticism either. I'm merely making the point that climbing can be dangerous, rockfall is a well known danger, and Pinnacles rockfall may not be as big a threat to safety as rockfall in other areas. First a link to the Supertopo thread:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2971876/Tahquitz-Rockfall

Then quotes from some of the eyewitnesses who've posted on that thread (emphasis added and spelling corrected in places):

1.  "...I was on Whodunit immediately adjacent to the rock fall incident. A climber was searching around at the top of the third pitch of Consolation for anchor placements when a golf cart/ mini cooper sized block gave way. The climber and a dozen or so rocks of various size fell. No parties were climbing below on Consolation; they surely would have been wiped off the face due to the sheer size of rock fall."




2.  "Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung

Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.

But he's in one piece."




3.  "Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down...my boyfriend and I had finished Long Climb earlier in the day and were back at the base retrieving our stashed gear before we hiked down. We got our stuff and had just started walking across the base towards the trail. The rest is kind of fuzzy...I thought I heard someone yell 'Rock!" and then suddenly my boyfriend screamed at me to RUN. By random chance, he happened to be watching the climber when he fell, so he immediately knew the severity of what was about to hit us in a few seconds. As I turned to run I glanced up for a split second and saw a lot of movement coming down the face right above us. Within seconds debris started whizzing past me. I dove between two smaller rocks and covered my head. My boyfriend made it behind a large boulder. I could hear the bigger rocks smashing around us."

Jeremy broke a softball size hold off Pay Dirt this weekend and managed to stick. It missed me by a foot and clattered down the gully. He was incredibly quick at yelling rock.

That rockfall at Tahquitz was killer size. Glad the injuries weren't worse.

The scariest rock pile so far at Pinnacles Imo was the top of the flair Noal did by Meanderthal. It vibrated as you crossed over

Brad - I can't believe you would desecrate our sacred Quest for Mud thread with a story from the Taco and worse yet about the it word I already banned you for. I'd say it is time for the Pillory or the Rack. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :prrr:

I pulled some humongous stuff off the new routes I did today.

I left one on Bare Bones that needs to be removed but I wanted it in the picture so I could show you where the bolt is.
You can't see the bolt from the ground but you can see the big white knob at the same height that is totally loose.

I had at least a half dozen lodestones big enough to kill or maim that were either just sitting there or disintegrated.
One partially fell apart when I brushed off the top  :yikes:

I would have done a third route if it hadn't been so freakin hot.
I just looked it up on the park gauge and it hit 97 today.
It felt hotter.

It is supposed to be in the 60's this weekend so I'll be sure to establish as many new routes as I can  :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:

Not really a desecration. More of an explanation of why Pinns is better than its sometimes reputation.



Pig. But it is nice to know that you're not laying out there somewhere turning into a raisin  ;D

So you agree the time has come for granite cracks?

A bit more medieval.

 First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead a 65.

 Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.

I couldn't get enough water yesterday.
I thought at least one of the routes I wanted to do would be in the shade but it was not to be.
By the time I topped out Two Bits I was really feeling it.
I managed to find a decent sized hollow/cubby on the side of the formation next to the one I was working on and that shade was a life saver.
I rested, recharged, drank sparingly and then went back up and drilled an anchor bolt.


Half and Half anchor on Two Bits

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/37212447385_ddc0974bd8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkw9r)



Tromping along the CCC road I was melting fast and when I hit the shade on the descent to the Res the flies were waiting.
The high temps the last few days must have popped every pupa in the place.
It also caused a growth spurt in all the PO.
There are several spots along the Bear Gulch trail where you now have to bob and weave to keep from grazing it with your head or face.

The east side spigot was a welcome relief regardless of the taste.
I talked to a nice German couple while I was recuperating and tried to convince them to buy the guidebook, even though they would only be there for a few days.
 

Nice anchor!

I thought you might appreciate that  :ihih: :yesnod: :thumbup:

I nearly melted on Wednesday and today was supposed to be sunny and 60 so we headed back out to The Way Station.
It was cloudy and spitting a tiny bit of drizzle in the parking lot but we figured it would clear up as forecast.
WRONG!
The sun never came out, the wind was crazy and we froze our butts off.
Thank goodness we threw a puffy in for Kat and I wore my hoodie.
My fingers were half numb while I was drilling and at one point I thought the wind was going to blow me off the face.
I looked down and Kat was curled up in a ball trying to stay warm while I drilled.

I got another route done and then Kat led all 3 to make a less than ideal day fun.

We stopped by and said hey to some AAC folks on the way out. 

Nectar - though water has its uses.

No questing for mud today  :nonod: :frown2: :crying: but here are some pics from yesterday.


JC starts up Johnnycake

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37022188276_0bf3b600db_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoJY)



JC drilling bolt 1 on Johnnycake

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/37212444525_10c793b146_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvi8)



Kat in the final stretches while leading the freshly cooked Johnnycake  :smilewinkgrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/37212446955_7d221547bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkw22)



Kat moving past an excellent sling knob on her way to the only bolt on Bare Bones

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/37022189196_65c48a22a0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ypwp1Q)



Time to make some more herstory. Kat makes the first of several moves to get to the stance for bolt 1 on Two Bits.
The route turned out pretty fun. It may get a star  :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/37212446335_d9976d5cf3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvQk)



Kat at the summit of her 100th lead at Pinns (Two Bits). Yes, that is 100 different routes led in good style. Time to start the next 100.  :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/37022188986_5dacb0a2fc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoXd)

It was cold yesterday.  The sunshine came out at the end of the day but the wind never really died down.  No Gavin sighting.  We looked for the AAC group but did not find.  One hang.  Tips are toast.

Didn't know you guys were there. I always look for Noal's RAV at your spot.
Yep, the sun came out just about the time we got back to the parking lot around 4:30. We could not get warm all day.
The wind at The Way Station was relentless.
I tried to get Kat to do another route with me on the way out but she wasn't buying.
We talked to a bunch from the AAC at Nailbox Crack on the way out and then went to the campsites (25 - 29) and hung out with Harrison and Kristen and a couple young guys. The guys had hiked over the High Peaks and done Old Original and then looped back around via Old Pinnacles. We swapped stories about OO and gave them kudos. 

Noal - I heard some people blowing some kind of horns on my way out Wednesday and reminisced about our mystery drummer. Good times dude  :biggrin:

I imagine you guys stayed until last light  :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

You can see how cloudy it was yesterday in my pics. No blue skies. Total cloud cover. Fade to white.
I checked the park gauge and it only hit 57 yesterday with wind gusts up to 26 mph. The wind was more steady than gusty.
It would blow for several minutes, let up briefly (felt like half a minute) and then the next wave would come. It went on like that all day. 

we got back and it was dusk, so it was just in time to turn the headlights on for the drive out.  Not quite a full day but close. 

 
  :madman:

Brad, I think the 'loose' fear is all about that a hold that you are on could fail causing a fall, not so much that the same hold would wipe out the village below. In that regard, though, Pinnacles exceeds expectations. It's one of the few times I've fallen 'honestly' i.e. where I didn't know I was going to fall in advance of the hold breaking and sending me off. You belayed me on that trip up Adam's Apple as I recall. 

Maybe I belayed you up, down and up on that trip?  ::)

Go Kat! Congratulations!

You know, unfortunately I have heard the horn player.  You are spot on with the drum connection the two know each other and some times "play music" together.  No joking.

 I think I experienced the horrible duet either when we working on Voyeur or summit experience.   Did you tell them to STFU?

A few weekends ago saw some a-holes flying a big old drone in the high peaks in the afternoon when all the condors were out. We told them to knock it if off (and no it was not the mythical, highly anticipated, Starbucks drone delivering us lattes and paninis)

People these days......Sheesh.

 I know, why can't they simply enjoy the  natural sounds of Pinnacles, the wind rustling the chaparral, birds of prey screeching, frogs croaking, crickets chirping, snakes rattling, woodpeckers and climbers drilling.

 I have almost gagged on perfume of late passing hikers on the trails. We observed waders and swimmers a couple weeks ago in the reservoir. Someone commented that the sign needs to be bigger and I suggested that a warning of "May contain the really bad strain of genital eating microbes", as a deterrent.

I feel your pain.
There were some maroons blasting bubble gum barf on their iphone when we were in Juniper Canyon.
It sounds like we all need to be deputized and given blank citation books.

Drones are illegal without a permit, last news I saw from the NPS.

Brad, yep. :)

JC, calm yourself. It's going to be ok. ;)  You just need to get further out, like in the mountains. ;)

Munge, maybe consider teasing the next rattlesnake you see with a short stick.

That might be a little less likely to get a reaction than baiting the (as in "the," not "a") dyed-in-the-wool Pinnacles fanatic  ;D  :P

It's subliminal. Pretty soon he'll be carpooling with me to the Valley.

We'll start with Sunnyside Bench and work our way up...

http://www.supertopo.com/routebeta/yosemite.html

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3304/3520017332_7fc4fb6f37_b.jpg)

Not to speak for our favorite, wonderful, gregarious, fun-loving, adventurous, large-forheaded Pinnacles fanatic, but Fat Chance, Slim Chance and No Chance (the Chance brothers). Nice try though  :P  >:D  ;D

^^^^

BTW, that's a great photo of Snake Dike. What a route!

Too bad it DOESN'T BELONG on a Pinnacles climbing thread (just warming you up for the the lambasting you deserve and will get for posting that photo in this discussion).

Hey, Munge
great pic, keep up the good work
; )

Mud

I am determined to make it up some nonpinnacle classics with JC. Of course they will have the status of Pinnacles training exercises.

Maybe start by infusing his morning eggs with Valium? Then, as long as you're driving... (well you get the picture).

Pinnacles Training!!!

Ya gotta have vision man!

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2884/11924704463_2710f2b40b_c.jpg)

A little more finger coordination and that pic would be Vulcan.

Snake Dike is a fun one for sure.

Lot's of good and not so good memories with that route.
But that's another thread.

(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b571/nelkins182/IMG_1460-1_zpsfkj8cclh.jpg)

It's It.

What's wrong with this picture?

Absolutely nothing at all.  I see that stuff on the way to and from the pinns all the time.

Hardly likely. How can you see stuff like that when it's never light out as you travel (there or back)  ;D  :D

One can see strange visions in the dark......

 Hijackistan  :)

 I suppose the Rasputin and Merlin team can do that in broad daylight.

Neva again!

 The Quest for Mud season has unofficially begun. Bring your jacket.

Only for the next few days.
No need after Wednesday.
Time for flies, ice water and shade  :lol:

Meanwhile I've got two fingers that are now missing big, painful flaps of skin and the back of an arm with a bunch of deep scrapes (even though I was wearing a rugby shirt).

Gosh, it must be granite cracks season  ;)

 JC, we may need 2x3,4, 1x5,6, a selection of pins and the company of one Rasputin(Noal)  to slay the non-European, New World Dragon.

 Happy Mothers Day to all you mothering ladies!

 

^^^

Hey, I qualify as a Pinnacles fanatic. And I get to post occasionally about what's going on in the non-Pinnacles world. You should be supportive and happy for me. And worried about the amount of blood I've lost.

It needs to be dark?

 Brad, you are The Pinnacles fanatic. As far as blood lost on granite, I am only going to be concerned if your loss is measured in pints. If I lived where you do I probably wouldn't get to Pinns more than twice a year. As it is Pinnacles is constantly enticing me with it's mystery, which you have lost yourself in for much of your life, over the years.

  I am looking forward to this summer's exploring with JC and KC. Still amazed at the quality of rock discoveries at the Old Man and Crud and Mud over the last 17 months.

   :)

A few slings and arrows should be able to conquer The Monster.

Happy Mudders Day.

There I fixed it for you  ;D

No Merlin, for you it doesn't need to be dark.

I'm suffering slings and arrows since we missed a perfect day but we did a good thing today with beano  :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:

Jesse scopes out the final moves on Tuff Chix

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/37212445745_898322d530_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvEa)


Moving into the void on some thin slab yesterday

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37022187896_13f4036f6a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoCq)

Orange you glad you can down climb?

Still wondering how the heck I did that  :yesnod: :yikes: :biggrin:

clink and KC share Tick Talk  :lol: :yikes: :yesnod: :crazy: :eeeek:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/37212445455_ee8372e1ec_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvza)

The Quest continues...

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37022188516_fa86b811e5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoP7)

On the way out we saw a cool snake, it disappeared into a slot in the rocks before a pic could be taken.

The lower you get, the bigger and better they look  :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/37212444335_c88d047c17_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkveR)

Big butts

Baby's got BAC

Let's go git some clinker :thumbup: :biggrin:

So what is BAC?  Blood Alcohol Content is the search result. Big Ass Crud?
The pinnacle on the left has ED. That was the one you called interesting.

Bay Area Climber  :lol: :puke:

unlike BAP which goes back to Brad's roots :yesnod: :lol:


Flaccid Finger :lol:

Low T Pinnacle  :lol:

Top Knot Pinnacle

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37212757125_8f93d76751_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGn7dM)

I showed your post to Jim and Wendy. All three of us agree - you nailed it.

You shoulda' been around two thousand years ago when they were naming the constellations. You've got a real knack.

How do you know I wasn't? Recycling makes sense :lol: :crazy:

Let's see, 2,000 years ago, initials J.C., and recycling does make sense. Could have been you....

Well if it was you figuring out what patterns of stars looked like, you've carried your skills into the present age to be applied to rocks.

 Mike asked if I would mind if he sent a guy named Andrew, who was visiting the gym yesterday, over to climb with us. I mentioned something about being social to Geoff. He responded "I'm the socialest there is".

 Andrew ended up climbing with others.

 Josh was dropped off the gym by his Mom and Martha. He was very excited about climbing being in the Olympics, and SNL's impersonation of Spicer. Martha had no idea that I was at the gym. It was a (Brad)business meeting, since we talked for a couple minutes about work and exchanged a check for me and pay for one of Geoff's sons.

 Who is going to be the Rock(Plastic) Climbing sports announcer at the Olympics? Geoff did an excellent play by play of Andrew climbing higher than we did on a well set route. Geoff was sure Andrew was going to fall off sooner than he did, pretty damn funny.

 Seabright Brewery is hard to beat, for extending the business meeting. This is how we fill in some of the days between Mud research outings.

Well I'll be. Old dogs can learn new tricks.

I'm always good at extending business in this manner.

Thick as a Tick

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37212757035_43f426dde7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGn7ce)

All talk from that viewpoint.

Did you notice the grass was chest high in places.

In the clear white circles of morning wonder,
I take my place with the lord of the hills...

 So you do wax...

 The C's were top notch on Top Knot. Great lead KC.

 We shelled out some egg hunting in the Monsters lair .

 Nice to run into Gavin.

 JC rocked out 2 serious stance placements while uncorking the bottle. The arraignment of the the previous 2 days is that he does most of the work(7 bolts to 1) and while I expound on the possibility of his future employment opportunity as becoming a gargoyle model.  :)

Top Knot was cool dude and Uncorked ain't bad either.
Can't wait to get back to Monster and the Tick's Underbelly  :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:

 On the whole, gargoyles seem to have small foreheads bro. This statue has a larger one than most.

 Le Stryge, Notre Dame, early 1900s

 Uncle Sam, Buddha, God, and Plato are more in the running. That Lawrence of McEnroe look you were sporting may be catchy.

 8)

It's Lawrence of Wimbledon to you  :lol:

Top Knot

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36375050744_3d17b07e1e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDij)

^^^

That is a very interesting photo and a cool formation. Looks like fun.

I have two groups of questions:

1. Is the LOLR up and right (below you), and then around to the summit? Is that how you climbed?

2. Am I seeing horizontal ropes across the gap between the summit and the rocks to the left? Did you guys set up a tyrollean traverse to get off??

And I'll take my answers offline if online would give away too many secrets for now  ;D  ;)

Nope.
It is like a smaller version of Bicuspid without the unprotected rotten start.
A small crumbly pillar (to my right in the pic) which can't be seen in this picture allows you to gain the main pinnacle.
I placed a bolt on that middle summit for a directional while you climb down to the slot and gain the smaller crumbly pillar.
Pretty cool climb - a mini mountaineering adventure.

 JC spotted a line that worked out on a pinnacle we have dubbed the monster, not that it resembles him sporting a goatee in any way.

 At one point JC was around a corner and as I continued to feed out rope I inquired "How are things going?". He yelled back "I'm committed" and probably should be for his mossy run-out to the top.

 The climb surprisingly went at 5.7ish 2bolts 75 ft corkscrew. Cool summit! Dude, that was a great day and climb.

That was an awesome day and I am going with Behemoth for a name.
I will include in the description for the upper slab - climb up to a perfect stance on a decent size lodestone and wonder why there is not a bolt. This one will be left for all the naysayers.  :lol: :devildevil: :eeeek:

Here are some more pics of Top Knot - dueling JC's

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36375049954_b1d1cb1c60_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkD4G)



and to solve the mystery that Brad inquired about...

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/37069712571_9a292dd94e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YtHY4n)

Here's a couple shots of Uncorked.

Drilling on a tippy toe stance

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/36375050244_f5ab06769a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkD9G)


Working on the upper section.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36375050464_7abcd34888_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDdu)

Thought I would let the suspense build.

Here are a few of clink's shots of me on Behemoth

In the Funky flare

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/36397087833_1506cd4393_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XshAa8)


After the Furry slab

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36397087463_61bcfcd600_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XshA3K)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/37021359586_7169df7dd2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yps9pd)

 I like the wide shot.

 

5.7

Zactly  :smilewinkgrin:

5.7R* (the Furry slab is 5.5R) :thumbup: :lol:
 

Here is a zoom of the Furry slab. Look close and you can see the sling knob I used. The rope passes it on the right.
I could barely reach it on my tip toes. I thought that it might be a starting hand hold but I actually moved down and right to get started, making the sling knob waaaaay less meaningful. The best holds and LOLR were right up the furriest part along the right-hand side of the slab) I might have placed a bolt from that other noticeable knob (big but not slingable) but once I was standing on it the climbing was getting easier, it was really hot and I was smelling the summit.
clink took this after I had the first anchor bolt in.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37021359696_7e2a9b0689_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yps9r7)

Today was supposed to be a rest day for the forum.

 Lurkers say hi :)

Burp!

Who made that rule?  :puke:

  And it was good.

I thought there was a seasonal closure of the forum, much like the Passes in the Sierra. :)


posting by mud saying "DIE" in 3...2...1...

Saw and talked to Belizzi in the parking lot today  :biggrin:

Went back out today with my buddy Dave from L.A. and Kat and we just did fun stuff.
Dave and I went out yesterday and had fun. It was only his second time climbing ever.

Kat chalked up another 8 today on Chockstone - nice :yesnod: :thumbup:  

Explain this to me.
I hike over hell and half and acre every weekend with clink for the last few months - mostly off trail.
Today after sticking to trails and climbing relatively heavily trafficked stuff I find a tick embedded in my ankle, blood on my sock and a nice red circle where the little bastard was feeding - wtf?

 It was a Missionary gym tick, that hitched a ride to Pinns on a chalk bag, to spread the "good news" and the benefits of fasting, meditating, yoga, and communal urban living. Unfortunately, upon smelling the blood of a true adventurer it forsook it's vision to convert the masses, and chomped onto your ankle. Poor little heretic.

 

My theory is the marauder crawled into my hiking boot while it was unattended (while I was climbing). When I put my boot back on, it latched on and engorged itself and one of two things happened. Either it felt poisoned and vomited the meal back into me or my leg moving around in the boot popped it while it was full.
I never felt a thing. All I saw when we got home was a crusted spot of blood on my skin with a surrounding circle of redness. It wasn't until I scraped off the blob of dried blood that we realized there was indeed a buggy vampire in the coagulated quagmire.  


On a more positive note, Dave had a club membership that allowed us all to enjoy a complete tasting of the fare at Chalone Winery. We sat and enjoyed the vino and the view from their balcony and then bought a nice selection - and of course - Kat joined the Pinnacles Club.  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:

I already thought she was a club member. :)

If you develop a rash or fever within several weeks of removing the tick, see your doctor. Be sure to tell the doctor about the bite, date occurred, and where.

It wouldn't hurt to get a photo of the rash now to compare with later if needed

Dave gettin' his high step on  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36374660504_8a097457b0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqiDi3)

It was 76 when we hit the gate at 7:30 this morn and 107 when we drove away - Did Old Original with Kat and Julia today.

It was the last day Julia could climb before she moves to Australia for graduate work.

It is that time of year  :puke:

Tabular Listing: June 18, 2017 - 16:00 through June 19, 2017 - 16:00 PDT

Time(PDT)   Temp   Relative   Wind     Wind   
                           Humidity   Speed   Gust   
                    ° F      %             mph   mph         
15:37          109.0   18              7         14               

Dude, let's skip the gobbledygook. Here's the takeaway:

IT'S 109 DEGREES AT PINNACLES RIGHT NOW! ONLY NUTS WOULD GO THERE!

There, that was easy  ;)

Sometimes you feel like a nut.
Sometimes you don't.

After we establish Pass the Doobie Scoobie we'll have to do Almond Joy and Mounds

Always surprises me that they don't shut the gate to Death Valley with these types of temps.

Hi

clink - I am keeping track of your keystrokes and I have a pull up bar in the garage.  :lol:

 O

I quip.

How is the bite?
https://www.hopkinsrheumatology.org/specialty-clinics/lyme-disease-clinical-research-center/what-to-do-after-a-tick-bite/

quipping or kipping?

Seems to be fine. Thanks for asking.
Still just looks like a mosquito bite. There has been no itch, no soreness, no increase in redness or enlargement of the small, slightly red spot (half an inch in diameter). No unusual physical symptoms.

It got a bit redder Sunday but that was likely a result of being out in the intense heat.
Probably lucky I didn't spontaneously combust  :lol:

I don't think there is much chance of him doing a kip-up.
His failed landing might register on local seismographs :lol:
Tricia might be able to teach us something about doing crazy, bendy launches  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:

You joke, but I just bought a fire extinguisher for the next time I climb with you at Pinns.

It's nice and cool here - 73 in the house with the windows open - benefits of coastal living :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :smilewinkgrin:

So hot.

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2017/06/tick-bite-meat-allergy-spreading-spd/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social&utm_content=link_fb20170621news-tickmeat&utm_campaign=Content

Yup, it's warm, thank god for AC.

Pinns in the evening would be quite nice.

Mungie??

A/C is having a tough time keeping up.

How many people on here have lived back east (besides Noal) where it doesn't cool down at night?

I had a double double on the way home before I knew about the blood feast.
Had another one this past weekend  :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

 So stay away from the bong. Bad medicine.

Bongloadash

Murky Bongwater

 Tripdig

Crash Buds
Contraband Crack

Kat and I were on the west side yesterday after a 2 month hiatus from climbing and Pinnacles.
Did some exploring and found one interesting face but I wasn't in the mood to drill in the sun.
We looked at several other possibilities and climbed a little just to get some movement.
Saw a rattler on the trail between the bridge at Destiny cutoff and Bouldering Rock after talking to a variety of folks and Dan Gearhardt (sp?). It was stretched out and lazing apparently after a meal. There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length. Temp was only 93 back at the lot. Looking forward to rejoining clink next weekend.
 

 
 Same here.

Really glad you got back out. It's seems like about the right time.

Oh, and "exploring" is overrated and not necessary at Pinnacles. No need to bother (although that might change come November).

BTW, I got the PCAD email and thought it was very well done (tried to reply on that thread, but it's a "no reply" thread). Thanks to all of you for putting in the hard work (again).

Sorry - the thread is locked because I don't want to answer questions on there - I added a couple pics and my email address if anyone has any questions. Last year I unlocked the thread AFTER the event. I'll do the same this year.

JC got high on 420 today.

Thank God.
Now I can quit climbing.
Pass the doobie Scoobie  :lol: :out: :prrr: :crazy: :arf:

KC and I had a fun day with clink yesterday.
The park's temp gauge said it was a high of 88 but it felt very pleasant all day.
There were nice breezes and a few gusts that just about blew clink and me off our respective stances.
It was good to drill bolts again.
KC is still claiming she doesn't have her Pinns head back yet.
Weather looks good for next weekend but we will not be able to get out for the next couple weekends.

We'll have to get back out and finalize a couple things on the routes we did yesterday before the big event weekend.
We still need to put in an anchor, add some chains to both anchors and torque all the bolts.

clink tuffs out a difficult stance to set me up. He seems to enjoy setting these traps  :yesnod: :devildevil:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/37096635116_208ed14f41_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yw6Xcb)



Agent Orange stopping to get in another bolt on the lip. It took some concentrated effort to resist just running it out. :crazy:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/36449928294_cb56e3c024_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwXpMy)

I was just about to send you a note enquiring whether or not you folks would be out and about! I have a free Saturday for a change.

Right on brother - we'll get back on the crud soon - thanks for breaking the stalemate  :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

Got it all done today including drilling a fatty for one of the anchor bolts on It's 4:20 Dude

Got this classic shot of Birdbrain Pinnacle on the way out. I almost started a new thread  :lol: :yesnod: :rolleyes:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/23746920928_34e666aa7c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cbrbgb)

Clink and I finished See Ya Crater Alligator yesterday on a perfect Pinnacles day. The high was only 76 and there was a nice breeze. The route turned out to be more challenging than we anticipated. It is a mini adventure with some tricky moves and fairly intricate route finding.

Starting up last Sunday with some cool shadowing. I am standing on the first big, perched lodestone (see route description).

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4509/37676863131_cd27fc3702_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLLt)



Now the question becomes why would I not drill from that huge stance and instead move up to this calf pumper with a lean in on the elbow? I guess because I had a good knob slung out left and just felt like getting the bolt higher.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/37676862911_191aa8e547_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLGF)



This shot gives a better perspective and the staggered stance I shifted to

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/37005666783_dc47b59ef1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4HtD)



Here is the stance for bolt 2

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/37676861891_3cbaedd60c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLp6)



And the same stance from a different perspective

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/37676862421_9d4e7a63d5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLye)



Clink went up next and continued the shenanigans by climbing way past a perfectly good stance up the headwall and onto the big slanting ledge above. He claims he did it to keep the flavor of the route  :yesnod: :thumbup: :smilewinkgrin: :devildevil:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37676861501_6cba66c7ce_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLhn)



After placing the 3rd bolt, clink committed to the bulge and got another bolt in from a tough stance in the heat. That would be it for the day since we had to leave a bit early for a PCAD meeting.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37005665553_e5ea6f4ab0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4H7r)



Clink was kind enough to let me top out the route yesterday. My feet were probably 10 or 12 feet above his last bolt when it felt like the climb was over and I started looking for a good place to drill an anchor. Here is one last shot looking down from the anchor as clink followed. The sling knob is only for show. A few feet of scrambling leads up to a nice ledge where the walkoff starts.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/37005666213_7d4a0b909f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4HiP)



Here is a preliminary description. Posted here mainly because this is such a popular crag. People climbing Passion Play probably will not notice the first bolt unless they are looking very closely and the second bolt cannot be seen from below.

See Ya Crater Alligator 5.6R
Note: This climb traverses/wraps around the right side of Passion Play Wall and wanders
a bit to take advantage of the natural lines and the good holds. It is not for novices.
Start at the base of Passion Play but move immediately up and right toward a basketball-
sized, perched lodestone. The perched lodestone and/or another good knob slightly left
can be slung to protect the moves to the first bolt if desired. From the first bolt, continue
traversing diagonally up and right and then along the base of an alcove underneath a
beach ball sized, hanging, fractured lodestone (the time bomb). The “time bomb” was not
utilized in any way to climb this route. Past the “time bomb” a step up at the far right side
of the alcove reveals the 2nd bolt. Move around a blunt arete to the right and up into an
obvious scoop. From the scoop, move right and up into another smaller scoop. From that
scoop, make committing moves up a short headwall to an upwardly slanting ledge/ramp
(slants up and left) - at the base of an undercut bulge. One bolt allows moves onto the
bulge but will not keep you off the ledge (do not fall). A fourth bolt protects the final
section of the climb to a two bolt anchor - 101 feet from the start. Walk off left (3rd class).
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook      FA Date: 10-12-17
 

looks covered in questionable moss and time bombs! whew

I think you would like it mungie. It actually has some decent rock and some fun puzzle-solving. It may clean up some if people climb it or it may never clean up and just stay an adventure. The time bomb was just too big to mess with and is easy enough to avoid.  :ihih: :out: :crazy: :yikes:

Munge and Mud would solo it if the route gets a bit cleaner.

Thanks for posting the info JC. Fun route and beauty day for climbing!

It'll clean up.

I suspect it'll make a nice addition to the two routes already there.

It's fun but not for everyone. I think you will appreciate it and thanks for the atta boy  :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:

Kinda describes Pinnacles as a whole now doesn't it?  ;)

touché

Here is one more of clink committed to the headwall. Look carefully and you can see the last bolt way down and left.
He still has several thoughtful moves to gain the next stance up on that slanting ledge. More flavor to savor. :ihih: :yesnod: :yikes:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/37694494341_56dc860420_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZqW8UR)

 Pretty much. The question is who of the posters here, will be there?

It rained a bit.

You okay buddy? Getting enough sleep?  :frown2: :frown: :frown: :nonod: :yawn:

Yep. Crud this coming weekend.

The Walking Mud became a reality this weekend. It is a totally separate climb from Mud Diamond and allows you to access the highest point on Crud and Mud. Too bad the terrain isn't steeper because the rock is nice.

The Walking Mud - 4th Class
For experienced Mudders, this climb will probably feel like a walk in the park. For the inexperienced, it may be a horror show. The route follows an obvious line left of a rounded arête. From the Mud Diamond anchor, climb up and veer left into the mossy water chute. There is one bolt about 15 feet out from the anchor that cannot be seen. From the bolt, a series of small scoops leads straight up and over a lip (25 feet). Large knobs can be slung if desired. Once above the lip, the angle eases considerably. Continue another 75 feet up a very low angle slab to the true summit of Crud and Mud (115 feet from the start). There is no summit anchor for this route but there is excellent body position. To descend, make a short downclimb off the summit block to the East Side 5.2 R anchor. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: October 22, 2017

Of course you can also Fear the Walking Mud and rappel from the Mud Diamond anchor  :lol:
P.S. Remember - zombies can't climb  :nono: :out: :prrr:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/26156417059_2dbb61f49a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FRmtvV)

I think that has been solo'd a few times already.

Yer so funny  :lol: - not unless they soloed Mud Diamond  :ihih: :arf:

Kermit Kersplat

 Crust Station

Human Ashtray  :lol:

Cannibal Lipstick

 :)

It appears we were both working around peckers yesterday. Mine was significantly larger  :lol:

Things that make you go hmmmm... :crazy:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/38048404621_f177945808_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZYd27e)

Great pic.

 Finding a few good holds on a FA at Pinns is like Christmas!

This one is for you clinker.
Thanks for another great day of adventure on the mud.
It pays to play hooky with the Cookie

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38222546756_a8a9bd4029_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21eAxuQ)

Thanks
Yes
Let's do that again

Here is the companion shot.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38296414461_2c5b2158bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21m88MX)

Had fun yesterday finishing a route with Brad that he started on Sunday with Jennifer Wang.
While drilling what would be the last lead bolt, Brad realized the top was close but also realized he had not redpointed the route. I told him to come down and I would be happy to redpoint and drill the first anchor bolt. For some strange reason he declined.
The route will not be called Kind Offering or Charitable Monday  :lol:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4569/37703999764_480b546c99_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZrLRxs)

These things happen. Hang in there JC, one day you'll be able to do an FA too! ;) :)

Chance brothers....

Jump

Where the Wild Things are...

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/26653862159_f4846b7e4c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GBj1Bz)



(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38430242791_5e5592d612_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21xX3hX)

Nice!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/26671039539_393b3a0600_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GCQ3Ri)

 I bailed on meeting up with the Cooks. What you do?

Kat and I climbed with Gavin on Saturday and reached the Throne of Pinnacles after some hair-raising activity yesterday. :yikes: :thumbup:
 

Climbing Camouflage Corner with Gavin

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/37829441774_5ab5a4c282_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRM5J)



BAP Trap

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/37829442244_0a13e39c62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRMdQ)



Gavin leading Pickpocket

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/38545389601_0a13e39c62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21J8cqM)



The Long and the Short of It – a cool climb with lots of interesting moves. When it gets as clean as the rest of the routes at Tourist Trap it will be a two-star climb – hopefully it will clean up quickly  :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4532/37829441934_bab85f5949_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRM8u)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/38545389131_40bb06bb01_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21J8chF)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4585/38545388771_70744fa009_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21J8cbt)

I'm not sure what it is but I love this picture.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/38545804601_032e12783c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21JajMX)



Taking a break on The Throne  :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
The more I look at it maybe The Recliner is more appropriate  :biggrin:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/26770041049_c2a8452647_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMzsxT)

I climbed "See Ya Crater Alligator" (5.6 R) today.  It was a nice climb.  I agree that it is not for novices.

Glad you got on it. Not as scary as some of the FAs you put up earlier this year.  :)

Glad you liked it. We had a lot of fun putting it up.

Just curious - Did you lead it with a belayer, rope solo or free solo?

I did it rope solo.  The route seemed very logical to use many different features.  I also did all of the routes on The Invisible Cliff on Sunday.  I particularly liked the center one that goes over the bulge.

Nice. That is what I figured.
I got to do a coveted 2nd ascent elsewhere on Sunday -  :thumbup: :biggrin:

 Thread desecration.  :nono:

Notice I didn't say where or on what and where everyone else climbed on solid stuff, I checked out the chossy path less taken :eek: :rolleyes: :biggrin:

The "chossy path less taken" sounds like a lot of territory in the Pinnacles!

there ya go, fixed it for ya. ;)

It's like they're giving away 2nd ascents for free out there in the wild west! ;)

 Munge, you mean the wild east.

Mini adventure yesterday.

Started with me dislodging this rock on the approach and narrowly missing Jason - I barely touched it - shades of Tabooboo?

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4682/39052756201_02835baee8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22uXzQM)



The destination climb - Dwarf Pinnacle

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/27275422169_28273e95dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyeEKt)



View from above the route - the sling knobs were a joke and the overall rock quality was not good - it is however exposed, historic (am I on the wrong thread?) and a cool summit

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/27275422319_d97e64416d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyeEN4)



The replacement anchor chains, smash links and bolts all look brand new even though they are 14 years old.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/38171474965_213fd6bb15_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21a5MCH)



Jason raps

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4686/39052756431_4b8c45f7cb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22uXzUK)



We climbed Possibility Pinnacle on the way back. I took Jason to Photographer's Delight next so he could get a classic lead in. We saw two condors on the rocks below Long's Folly. While we were watching a third one flew right overhead and landed next to the other two. Jason led the Cone on the way down.

^^^

Well, well, well. Nice that you finally get to tick that one off your list.

I evidamndently drew the short straw for both my stances yesterday.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4646/27367587379_2e3789f2a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HGo3fP)


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4587/39145888741_bd4a533384_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22DbUUe)


One should not be able to rest this easily - much less smile on stance!

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4640/39115278462_1166c12a4f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22Au2wN)

lol, nice pics!

 The slacker in the yellow puffy answered his phone on stance while halfway through with the drilling. He also bled like a stuck pig from a short brush encounter. Brad did talk him into drilling into a big loadstone.  :)

 JC, you are doing such a fine job that I have decided to let you drill bolt #4. >:D

Seemingly unbelievable, but true!



After two holes I started nearby in seemingly good rock both failed.

Since I have already done two-thirds of the work I will just go ahead and finish it.  :yesnod: :thumbup: :prrr:

We hit a new low.

And also hit a new high  :lol:

 Awful, ugly, and gross rock. The worst route yet for me. The consistency of dried diarrhea. When you hit rock bottom, chug a quart of prune juice and start digging. a parade of shitfuckery.

 The two square feet of drillable rock eight feet below the summit and the rappel were very good. 

The first bolt is also belay quality - well...what was the first bolt until you started cringing at that rotten traverse and drilled that bolt for a self back-belay. Kat and I went and ran up it again today and I surfaced your bolt and fixed (actually replaced) that bad directional/lead bolt I placed toward the top with a bomber 12mm long triplex. It is actually belay quality now too - although not in the best rock. Kat didn't think the climb was that bad and said she would rather lead it than Rock Bottom  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
We scrambled over toward Brittle Palace on the way down but ran short of time to climb it. I know prezactly where it is now and how to get there  :thumbup: :biggrin:

 Easy and yuck. It was funny hearing your dissertation of the rock quality when you disappeared around the corner yesterday. The corridor was cool. Did you get a look beyond it?

Glad you had fun  Go Kat  :)

Just a reminder for you clink - the loose stool traverse? :lol:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4633/38579363805_5f1fd4894e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21M8jLV)



We don't have to climb this do we?

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4595/38579364145_8829f2f715_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21M8jSM)



This looks like the logical way up - drill baby drill - hmmm...is there anything here that isn't styrofoam? Like a needle in a haystack... :out:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4684/27680790619_047019fc62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jb4hEF)



Summit of Prune Pinnacle - The Regular Route  :crazy: :yesnod: :ciappa: :lol:

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4645/27680790979_3c38f96f87_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jb4hLT)

Prooopy quality. Whew!

Kat and I had an absolute blast on Saturday at Condor Crags.

I got us up the first pitch as an aid pitch on gear - my first time aiding on gear - super cool.

I led it as a free climb years ago when Kat and I did St. Valentines Day Massacre.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4647/38752138504_514707e4b8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/223oQF3)



Belaying Kat up the final 4th class section of the oldest roped climb in Pinns - that's a fairly long and hairy pitch of class four - it was a real treat to finally do it.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4729/39460687961_09434c5b1b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2381kJZ)



Standing on the highest of the South Summits

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4683/27683106129_40a9afe96d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jbg9Zg)



Climbing to the North Summit (taken from the South Summit).
After I got down there and got past the start, I realized I had climbed the upper section once before when I did Condor Condiment with the McConachie brothers

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4640/27683106019_5b08964348_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jbg9Xn)



Looking back over to Kat on the South Summit from North Summit

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4725/38752138814_db8293c923_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/223oQLo)


It was super cool to finally do the old routes but I think the highlight of my day was leading the South Summit Traverse - here is Kat following

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4731/27683106539_4c4fd19ff1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jbga7k)



(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4633/38752138194_14795893b7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/223oQzG)