MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on August 08, 2016, 10:25:11 AM
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How many days have you been at Pinns this summer?
9 outings for me so far ;D
4 new routes complete, a couple of new leads, a few old bolts replaced.
Adventure is alive and well.
clink on the well protected crux of Mud Diamond 5.7*** (there is a bolt at his waist)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/37075748952_a1310bab9e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUsU)
This is how the bolt got there :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/37075749112_de73f1e548_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUvE)
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nice sling placement.
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you coulda tied off that drill and left the bit behind too! ;)
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nice sling placement.
I thought you might like that. :yesnod:
It was unnerving weighting that little sucker and then hoisting up on it a bit.
I was able to get these side slings on and nestled in once I did that. :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/37247649715_80782db761_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKrWza)
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Such a very special edition. :puke:
>:D
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puking emoticon is my favorite.
:puke: :puke: :puke:
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Is that a new drill, btw? The top end doesn't look mushroom'd.
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puking emoticon is my favorite.
Very creative nelkins 8)
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Is that a new drill, btw? The top end doesn't look mushroom'd.
Pretty new. I also don't beat the hell out of my drill holders.
I keep 'em filed too if they do mushroom - that shroom edge can be razor sharp - saw Primrose draw blood one day when we were working on the Inn Crowd - man that seems like a lifetime ago...
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you could belay off of that.
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you could belay off of that.
Funny you should say that but you are right - it is a great hold.
I offered to belay clink up so he could finish drilling the hole. :ihih:
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If only your mouth had fallen asleep along with yer legs. :P
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If only your mouth had fallen asleep along with yer legs. :P
Your price on bolts and hangers just went up :idea::devildevil:
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will remember that line
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After finishing up the (Brad's ?) grey chute that JC had called Just Chute Me and I dubbed High Lee and Unlike Lee, we backtracked around to the north side of the formation to escape the sun. First we scrambled up a fin to a ledge with a nice tree and a possible line, but the rock quality after 20 ft up looked questionable. Rather than put effort into this, we continued around to the toe(lowest point) of the buttress to take a look at a line that caught our attention the first trip to the area.
A beautiful lodestone started us out just left of the toe, followed by consistently great holds at a left diagonal and then dancing up to a headwall (45 ft up) that looked more do-able on the left. The route instead went more or less straight up, right through the steepest part and within a sea of bomber holds at 5.7 (for my height.) The next stance was a beauty, as was the whole day and a 5.fun new route.
It all started with me polluting the bathroom with a very "special edition", just in time for the arrival of the sport climbers. Who decided after a brief conversation, that it was the worst bathroom smell they had ever encountered in their short life experience, at which point I offered up only "Special edition" from the far stall as an explanation. JC heard them relate their dangerous encounter to the girl partner back at the car and I found him nearly dead from shaking with laughter on my return. :)
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A 5.fun new route.
I offered up only "Special edition" from the far stall as an explanation.
Classic day with clink. 5 fun indeed and repeated gut wrenching laughter :yesnod: :biggrin:
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When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?! ;)
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When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?! ;)
Yes
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When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?! ;)
Let me know when you want to lead it and I'll go out and show you which bolt to skip.
I could use the entertainment. I think clink would like to be there too. :devildevil:
I have to mention that the main little knob I was hanging on was barely wide enough to keep the skinny sling on and no way it would stay on if you blow the move. It is also a long and committing reach to get the sling on there. Lastly, that particular knob is a key hand hold for setting up and pulling the crux, so the sling would be under your finger tips. 3 people led the climb Sunday and thoroughly enjoyed it. The climb definitely has some spice even with the bolts.
Now I also have another 5.7 just up the corridor from there and the crux move relies on an incredible sling knob. The knob is about 3 feet above a bolt and it is also a bit reachy and committing to get the sling on it. Kat is following the climb here. It turns out you can do the crux right or left of the knob but the holds looked sturdier to me on the left. I did it on the left and she did it on the right. No one else has led this climb so far. Bottoms Up!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37075749002_6cb6d14f20_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUtL)
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Yes
Rock Naked :yesnod: :yikes: :ihih:
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Rock Naked :yesnod: :yikes: :ihih:
Never again... >:(
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8)
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I would love to get over there and lead it sometime - it looks like a fun climb for sure! Nice work putting it up! Oh, and methinks I'll definitely be happy that there is a bolt right there! =)
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The caption on that photo should say " kat's head shown for scale only"
Head sized lodestone.
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I would love to get over there and lead it sometime - it looks like a fun climb for sure! Nice work putting it up! Oh, and methinks I'll definitely be happy that there is a bolt right there! =)
Hold it, weren't we talking about Rock Naked?
If you want to lead that, you're as nuts as Mud himself :-\
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Hold it, weren't we talking about Rock Naked?
If you want to lead that, you're as nuts as Mud himself :-\
Naw. I just put that on there for Mud. I want Scott to have fun! :biggrin:
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The caption on that photo should say " kat's head shown for scale only"
Head sized lodestone.
Funny dude :biggrin:
That thing is so bomber! Route should get a star just for that 8)
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I feel like I missed something here, but I'm now very wary of the words "rock" and "naked" being used together!
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There is a route on the Outcast called Rock Naked
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Had a fun two days with KC at Pinns.
We talked to a lot of different folks, some climbers, some not.
We started and finished a new route Friday.
Call of the Crud 5.5, 4 bolts in 100 feet to a 2 bolt anchor.
It got pretty smoky starting about mid day.
I think the smoke actually helped keep the temps down a little.
Camped last night and went back out early today.
We noticed a thin layer of ash on the car this morning.
I thought the chute I had my eye on would be at least partially shaded early.
I was wrong.
Two bolts in on a sun drenched face and I'd had enough.
We'll finish that one next weekend.
Ashes the Mud and I. Rating tbd :thumbup: :biggrin:
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I think it was cooler down there than up here.
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I think it was cooler down there than up here.
It was only 99 yesterday but felt about 103 to me on the way out after we decided to bag it.
Working in the sun didn't help but I was determined to at least get the line started.
There was not a single mosquito in the campground but there are still biting flies.
I thought the flies were gone but they seem to have gotten a second wind.
Persistent little buggers.
How is life up north, other than hot?
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Hot and a bit muggy. Today is a bit cooler and actually fairly reasonable. Got out today and and did two climbs at a local climbing area called the exits ( you take one of two exits off the freeway. The guidebook uses the word Velcro to describe the rock and it is appropriate. Some of the most and most likely the most tacky rock I have ever climbed on. Got out two different days and rode the bike. Starting to settle in a bit but have a ways to go.
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Got out today and and did two climbs at a local climbing area called the exits ( you take one of two exits off the freeway. The guidebook uses the word Velcro to describe the rock and it is appropriate. Some of the most and most likely the most tacky rock I have ever climbed on. Got out two different days and rode the bike. Starting to settle in a bit but have a ways to go.
Excellent. Good to know you are getting out.
That rock sounds interesting.
Here's to Mud in your eye :biggrin:
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Hot and a bit muggy.
At least you weren't bothered.
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...Got out today and and did two climbs at a local climbing area called the exits ( you take one of two exits off the freeway. The guidebook uses the word Velcro to describe the rock and it is appropriate. Some of the most and most likely the most tacky rock I have ever climbed on.
Sound interesting. I went looking for it on that "garbage in/garbage out, with occasional good entries" site. Is this it:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/exit-32--little-si/105789876
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Call of the Crud 5.5, 4 bolts in 100 feet to a 2 bolt anchor.
The ramp left of HMIYE?
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The ramp left of HMIYE?
Correct.
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Sound interesting. I went looking for it on that "garbage in/garbage out, with occasional good entries" site. Is this it:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/exit-32--little-si/105789876
Nope, that is Little Mount Si which is actually closer to the house and as of yet I have not been there. There are supposed to be some steep climbs that can be climbed when wet but they are known to seep a bit during the rains.
This is Exit 38 and the crag with Endless Bliss
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/gun-show/105798594
We need you to come up here and write a comprehensive guide book to the I-90 corridor. I figure you can knock it out when you cruise through the PCT next summer.
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Here's to Mud in your eye :biggrin:
Thanks, and
Here's to sweat in your eye
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Nope, that is Little Mount Si which is actually closer to the house and as of yet I have not been there.
We hiked to the summit of Little Mt Si years ago when I had a buddy living in Redmond.
The closest I have been since then is seeing it in the background when Bullock gets abducted in The Vanishing >:D
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It's official. You all missed the best day at Pinns all summer - weather-wise.
It was so foggy this morning I could not see the Hand from the res.
I'm not even sure I sweated on the chug up the hill to the crag.
I was almost cold getting started in the pseudo sun. It was still trying to peek out of the fog at that point.
I didn't actually feel the heat of the day until 2:00 and even then it was pleasurable.
Park gauge says it was only a high of 87 at 3:30 - I was on the road a few minutes after 3:00.
I spent the morning and early afternoon hanging on knobs and drilling 3 bolts - rope solo.
I will lead the route tomorrow and I told KC if she doesn't lead it she will lose her status as a Tuff Chik.
This is going to be another fun one.
Kat and I are heading back out in the morning to beat the crowds for the free centennial day.
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It's official. You all missed the best day at Pinns all summer - weather-wise.
Sounds kinda like missing the "best day" in months of beating yourself on the head with a hammer.
...beat the crowds
Seems to be a pattern? A symptom of the heat? Either way, inflict a few blows in my name too please.
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Seems to be a pattern? A symptom of the heat? Either way, inflict a few blows in my name too please.
Be ready, 2-3 lines are in a wait to explore with the "SOS" come fall.
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Sounds kinda like missing the "best day" in months of beating yourself on the head with a hammer.
Seems to be a pattern? A symptom of the heat? Either way, inflict a few blows in my name too please.
Seems like you have things under control already :lol:
Kat and I also had an interesting conversation on the trail today after she had done two new leads. I reminded her that she scored big time by leading the new routes. First of all, she redeemed herself, since I told her if she didn't lead the route I finished bolting yesterday rope solo, she would have to renounce her Pinns status as a Tuff Chik. I told her in addition to leading the routes and being on the first ascent party, she also got the coveted 2nd ascent of both routes. She replied - Cool, I retain my status and I got to snake Brad :yesnod: :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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It's official. You all missed the best day at Pinns all summer - weather-wise.
It was so foggy this morning I could not see the Hand from the res.
I'm not even sure I sweated on the chug up the hill to the crag.
I was almost cold getting started in the pseudo sun. It was still trying to peek out of the fog at that point.
I spent the morning and early afternoon hanging on knobs and drilling 3 bolts - rope solo.
I will lead the route tomorrow and I told KC if she doesn't lead it she will lose her status as a Tuff Chik.
This is going to be another fun one.
I spent Friday getting the upper 3 bolts on Ashes the Mud and I.
Here are the knobs that protected me for bolt 3. The bolt is already in place.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/37247050895_43a105f38e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSyF)
Here is the array I used for bolt 5. It was literally a ladder of knobs. A big one at the bottom, baseball size in the middle and a nice horn at the top. This shows the bottom and middle. The red sling is on the top knob. The purple is in direct to the bolt so I could take the photo and prep to get back down.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/37247051205_367ba1de43_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSE2)
Here is the top knob and bolt 5 ready for my descent.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/37056716356_55ac6d1734_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YszmJG)
Feeling good after a fun day
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37247051705_87313b247b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSND)
I took this yesterday after Kat led the climb. Super fun beginner’s route with an old school finish.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/37056715536_157c509e4c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yszmuy)
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Me, Myself and I Reek in the Hot Sun
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Me, Myself and I Reek in the Hot Sun
I have no doubt that is true.
I did not spend any time in the hot sun this weekend.
Maybe if you didn't have greywacke between your ears you wouldn't have either :lol:
This is fog, not smoke.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/37104552471_a80d0ee8a6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwNwKi)
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...this is fog, not smoke.
There's definitely fog somewhere this season.
Meanwhile, my left elbow is all bloodied from the very awkward, 5.10c crack I successfully led today (maybe I will get back to being a real climber after all). Of course I then backed off a 5.10c face - feeling really rusty on that one and was looking at a fall right onto an eight inch, ankle breaking ledge (the FA party did a piss poor job of bolting it).
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There's definitely fog somewhere this season.
Meanwhile, my left elbow is all bloodied from the very awkward, 5.10c crack I successfully led today (maybe I will get back to being a real climber after all). Of course I then backed off a 5.10c face - feeling really rusty on that one and was looking at a fall right onto an eight inch, ankle breaking ledge (the FA party did a piss poor job of bolting it).
Unless you led a 10c at Pinnacles I'm not interested.
Oh wait...it's granite, it's a crack, it's 10c...I'm still not interested :nonod: :lol:
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Oh...and speaking of fatheads (should I cross post on that other thread?)..check out this new drill bit I tried yesterday.
It drills real nice. The Powers Fat Head design.
Just for fun I switched to my other drill after getting the hole started with this one and it immediately started binding.
Switched back and no more binding. One hole is not enough data but I'll speculate this sucker is going to help me place a lot of bolts faster and easier.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37104768571_61ab94cd04_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwPCZa)
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Meanwhile, my left elbow is all bloodied from the very awkward, 5.10c crack I successfully led today (maybe I will get back to being a real climber after all). Of course I then backed off a 5.10c face - feeling really rusty on that one and was looking at a fall right onto an eight inch, ankle breaking ledge (the FA party did a piss poor job of bolting it).
Nice, Brad.
There's definitely fog somewhere this season.
Fogged mind.
Despite that JC is right. When most of the holds will stay put, it's a little boring.
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Despite that JC is right.
Briefly hit 96 today.
What a waste :madmax: :lol:
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Briefly hit 96 today.
What a waste Mad Max Laugh Out Loud
Nothing was wasted, it was Gender Equality Day. Like D-Day, but with more letters represented. A day for male and female Homo-sapiens to stand tall and proud together as a species, on a united front(but not full)!
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Nothing was wasted
Except a perfect opportunity to quest for mud.
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I think summer might be over in NW. Rain in the forecast W-F. Weekend weather was nice. Got in a ride Sunday.
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I think summer might be over in NW. Rain in the forecast W-F. Weekend weather was nice. Got in a ride Sunday.
Yes, I forgot you actually live somewhere now that has real seasons :biggrin:
I had a hard time adjusting to that when we first moved to CA.
Mainly it was the lack of thunder and lightning with the rains.
It was like waiting for a phone call that never happened.
Good to know you are getting out.
I was thinking you might have just led the line I did Friday on sling knobs and gear. :ihih:
There was a good gray alien about half way up in a hidden slot out right.
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I'm looking at the picture upthread again of the latest route.
If I hadn't already decided on a name I'd probably call it Half a Dozen Scoops of Mud.
You can even see them on Google Earth.
I thought it looked like a backbone too, the first time I saw it in that view.
Here is another version with the bolts shown
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4335/37056716016_7c9c44d090_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YszmCQ)
Here is the Google Earth view with the line coming up dead center
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36433181733_46d3427035_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvtzBK)
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Yes, I forgot you actually live somewhere now that has real seasons :biggrin:
I had a hard time adjusting to that when we first moved to CA.
Mainly it was the lack of thunder and lightning with the rains.
It was like waiting for a phone call that never happened.
Good to know you are getting out.
I was thinking you might have just led the line I did Friday on sling knobs and gear. :ihih:
There was a good gray alien about half way up in a hidden slot out right.
Adjusting to winters with more than a week or two of rain might take a bit.
Nah, I'd solo it ; )
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The crud beckoned and we obeyed.
Some lame brain stole clink's water stash.
We tidied up and led a few new lines.
KC got the coveted 2nd ascent of Call of the Crud, thus snaking Brad again :lol: :thumbup:
Lower 90's was pleasant :biggrin:
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Water stash was for the parched summer dweller's use, although that particular stash I thought might be consumed by the resident Meanderthal.
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Water stash was for the parched summer dweller's use, although that particular stash I thought might be consumed by the resident Meanderthal.
I hope they ran out on the way back and drank from the reservoir :devildevil: :ciappa:
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Kat leads Call of the Crud 5.5 with a long way to go
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36847804400_740ee5afb2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cuq)
I did not get the full impact of Kat fussing at me about almost running out of rope every time I climbed up Call of the Crud, until I belayed her on the climb. We were using a half rope, which ends up being perfect!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4345/37055543816_cc79e48ffe_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ystmbu)
Looking down Here's Mud in Your Eye 5.8** from above the last bolt.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36847804110_a975dc271e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cpq)
I managed to get all of the bolts/draws in this shot. The fact that they look only inches apart from each other shows how steep the climb is. Love it! :yesnod:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/37055543426_3bf18fe97a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ystm4L)
Kat takes a run up just below the last bolt. Three star quality for sure. The only thing it lacks is greater length. Does size really matter? :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36847803740_985e4854d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Ci3)
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Fun pics.
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Looks fun! Where are those routes?
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Looks fun! Where are those routes?
Come to the PCAD in 5 weeks and find out :yesnod: :biggrin:
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Took my first leader fall during our quest for mud this weekend and I screamed like a little girl. (Just like Brad) ;D
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Got a treat this weekend.
Kat took Friday off and we continued our quest for mud.
Friday we climbed Mud Diamond (clink is jealous since it was my 3rd time). :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/37055543096_b2f8a746d7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkY5)
From the Mud Diamond anchor we did a 4th class route 110 feet to the summit of the formation.
The Walking Mud 4th Class
Description preview: For experienced Mudders this route will likely be a walk in the park. For the inexperienced it may be a horror show.
The other option is to Fear the Walking Mud and rappel from the Mud Diamond anchor.
Up next, Kat took her first leader fall on Shoo Fly Slab after a hold broke just past the second bolt :'( :-* :yikes:
After getting our fill of crud, we got a new route started (3 bolts), had a pleasant evening camping and finished the new route yesterday (2 more bolts and a 2 bolt anchor).
Drilling bolt 3 on Squeaky Clean Mud 5.6**
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36847803450_22ae4ef6c6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cd3)
Beanolar joined us yesterday for a few routes. I led Prairie Falcon to get warmed up.
The gals seemed to have reach issues on the climb (oops) :devildevil: :ihih:,
Beanolar stepped up and led Fledgling and Here's Mud in Your Eye and then ran 6! laps on HMIYE with her micro traxion setup while Kat and I finished the new route.
Beanolar leading Fledgling
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37055542766_291361e1a4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkSo)
Beanolar leading Here’s Mud in Your Eye
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36847803180_4ef4200835_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97C8o)
We saw a couple of the kids from CSUMB (Fletcher and Connie) in the parking lot on the way out. They were fired up about the upcoming PCAD. There will be some serious fun to be had on all the new routes after we get some trail work done! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Cool Beanolar. KC, quit breaking holds and I am jealous I missed Squeaky.
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Cool routes guys!!! Nice n cool in the shade. I only broke a sweat on the first bolt of that 5.6. JC's new nickname is "Reachy John".
Also I found a bit in the mud (clink's fat head?). Reachy John has it. Pls pay me back by adding a lower bolt to that route. ;D
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KC, ignore Clink's advice and break whatever you like. It saves me the trouble.
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Pls pay me back by adding a lower bolt to that route.
Nope, there are plenty of well protected new routes. I like the mix.
Took my first leader fall during our quest for mud this weekend and I screamed like a little girl. (Just like Brad) Grin
Brads yell was like an angry troll or Cyclops when his eye got poked. He was pretty pissed but stuck the landing on the slab below. You kept him off the ground KC!
Friday we climbed Mud Diamond (clink is jealous since it was my 3rd time). Ihih
Love that route.
Insert Quote
KC, ignore Clink's advice and break whatever you like. It saves me the trouble.
When are you Mudding next Waldo?
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Took my first leader fall during our quest for mud this weekend and I screamed like a little girl. (Just like Brad) ;D
What, you thought I'd miss that you little turd? You are as busted as busted can get.
I don't f#$%ing fall at Pinnacles and I only scream like a little girl for rattlesnakes.
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Missed the Mud today, but got to climb with the geologist.
OK, maybe not THE geologist, but at least it was the other one.
We established four new routes on Forefather's Wall: two crack and knob, gear protected 5.6 routes, a 5.11b layaway with one gut-buster move that I could not do, and a three out of three star 5.11c that I'll bet I can redpoint (although I think I'd fall off the first crux two out of three tries; that just means I have to try to lead it three times, right?).
As great as a climbing day can get (without being on mud).
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a 5.11b layaway
?? Shopping before payday?
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?? Shopping before payday?
That's pretty funny - I'd never put those two together like that before.
No, layaway, as in one is pulling hard and leaning away from the pull, but not doing a full lieback.
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Missed the Mud today.
We established four new routes: two crack and knob, gear protected 5.6 routes
Can't say I missed it, as the temps hit 104 today and I was already there Monday, Wednesday, Friday and yesterday.
It was only 101 yesterday.
Mmmmmm...Mongo like 5.6 routes but not like long drive :nono: :prrr: :lol:
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Mmmmmm...Mongo like 5.6 routes but not like long drive :nono: :prrr: :lol:
Yes, but Mongo like the hospitality once long drive is done. Get Mongos's butt up here for next weekend?
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Waldo came out and climbed some routes with me and Kat on Saturday. He led Call of the Crud and he and Kat followed Squeaky Clean Mud and TRed Here’s Mud in Your Eye.
Waldo in the vicinity of bolt 3 while leading Call of the Crud 5.5
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/36847802390_9379a6e5ae_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97BTL)
After he said adios, I bolted the line right of Here's Mud in Your Eye - two bolts compared to HMIYE's 4. It leads you to standing on the biggest perched lodestone I know of anywhere in Pinns to clip bolt 2. Mudster's Ball 5.7* A decent addition but obviously not as enticing as HMIYE since no one took a shot at the coveted 2nd ascent yesterday. Who wants to snake Brad? The line was originally TRed by clink and at that time we called it Senor Skid Marcos. It may actually produce the requisite brown spots for someone leading at the grade. I told clink I was going to climb to the ball for the first bolt but decided that no one would probably ever want to repeat it if I did that. It had a nice stance for the first bolt (albeit hairy to get there) but no way to let go to drill. I set up some slings with adjustable daisies and half-stood, half-hung to drill bolt 1. I have been wondering why my shoulder has been bothering me lately.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36848666790_5534b20f5c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9c3Rd)
Here is some perspective
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37074914452_42f019b9a8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YubCoY)
Here is the ball
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36848666580_be51d6268b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9c3MA)
And another for perspective
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/37074914012_5f8ac13e1f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YubCgo)
Climbed Squeaky Clean Mud with JC, as he says, it was stupid fun. Steep 5.6.
Aaron, Bee, Paul and I climbed Mud Diamond, sweet rock. They also climbed Prairie Falcon, Imprint, Here's Mud in your Eye and Bathing Beauty. Aaron and JC also wandered up Craig's route, said it was good.
Many of these are north facing, great for warm days but cold in the wind yesterday.
Aaron, clink, Paul and Bee came out to the mud yesterday to enjoy some select menu choices. Maybe I should design a mud a la carte tour for the PCAD?
Aaron got things going by jumping right on Imprint 5.8*
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/37055542316_7b771d9cbc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkJC)
B stepped up and proved it can be done by those under 6 feet. She had a time getting that first clip but she worked it out. Her left hand is just below the bolt. Can you say flash pump?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36847802690_9ea8931a55_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97BYW)
As Austin Powers would say - Yeah daddy! Squeaky Clean Mud is giggly fun coming in at 5.6 and two stars. I left some spice in the bolting pattern but it is all there.
Waldo got this shot from across the slot on Saturday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/36847802940_fd0cfb15e7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97C4f)
clink was all grins on Squeaky. Here he is about to exit the steeps.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36408641454_35c3162da0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtiNDu)
The Seelig route is actually decent but not 5.7. I will get back up there and brush off all the pine needles so people can actually see the holds. It has a spacious bolting pattern. There are many slingable knobs along the way. So many that I ran out of slings and I took 4. The rock was surprisingly good after exhuming much of it from under the piles and piles of pine needles. Did I mention that there were a lot of pine needles?
Aaron thought it was 5.9. I'll go with that and half a star, which would round up to one. Must have been how they determined the star for Brown Rice and Boogers :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:.
I was glad everyone did not listen when I said strip at the parking lot. They would have froze most of the day like me!
It was windy and cool all day. A high of 72 on the park gauge. Season my arse. :out: :puke:
Aaron removes the last sling from a knob as he exits the pines on Solotero. Thanks Aaron!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37055541916_69826ea029_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkBJ)
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waldo sent me this additional shot of the giggly fun on Squeaky Clean Mud :yesnod: :lol: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37055542476_8441954eda_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkMo)
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Cookie Munster is getting biceps from his steep fetish of late.
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Dueling JC's on Satyr. Climb bony nubs and horns 110 feet past 4 bolts to a fully erect and exposed summit. Myth or madness? :lol: :yesnod: :ihih: :devildevil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/37055141926_afa9640b46_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsrhHm)
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Satyr Pinnacle is a satellite of Goat Rock. A 5.fun romp with a summit that cantilevers over Juniper Canyon. It has an interesting water-chute that we will have to explore next time. Rewarding after a cross country hike in, via the Western Front with KC and JC. A much easier approach can be had from the High Peaks trail. We dared not climb any thing in the Barber Pole area. All pole dancing in that area is on hold for the return a certain individual obsessed with such things.
In Greek mythology, a satyr pronounced sátyros is one of a troop of ithyphallic male companions of Dionysus with goat-like features and often permanent erection.The satyr's chief was Silenus, a minor deity associated (like Hermes and Priapus) with fertility. These characters can be found in the only complete remaining satyr play, Cyclops, by Euripides, and the fragments of Sophocles' Ichneutae (Tracking Satyrs). The satyr play was a short, lighthearted tailpiece performed after each trilogy of tragedies in Athenian festivals honoring Dionysus. There is not enough evidence to determine whether the satyr play regularly drew on the same myths as those dramatized in the tragedies that preceded. The groundbreaking tragic playwright Aeschylus is said to have been especially loved for his satyr plays, but none of them have survived.
Mature satyrs are often depicted in Roman art with goat's horns, while juveniles are often shown with bony nubs on their foreheads.
As Dionysiac creatures they are lovers of wine and women, and they are ready for every physical pleasure. They roam to the music of pipes (auloi), cymbals, castanets, and bagpipes, and they love to chase maenads or bacchants (with whom they are obsessed, and whom they often pursue), or in later art, dance with the nymphs , and have a special form of dance called sikinnis. Because of their love of wine, they are often represented holding wine cups, and they appear often in the decorations on wine cups.
There is also a cool looking and seemingly unclimbed pinnacle 150ft SW of Satyr. Disclaimer; the rock quality on it may or may not suck but a route could go. We agreed that we are completely spoiled after the stellar rock quality of late.
Directly across the valley sits the Shaft.
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Let's hope we don't get the Shaft next time we're up there. :lol:
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After that pic you might.
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After that pic you might.
What? :confused: You don't like your horns Goat Boy?! :lol: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36407911044_9e3a6de802_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xtf4wd)
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while most of that mud looks charmingly lovely, there is tasty rock in the rest of the world.
But ya'll know that... :)
[EDITED FOR VIOLATION OF VOLCANIC CONTENT RULES. THE APPROPRIATE CONTENT VALUES AND WEIRDOS COMMITTEE WILL REVIEW AND DETERMINE WHETHER A TRIP TO YOSEMITE IS REQUIRED TO ROUTE OUT THE INFIDELS. WE NOW RETURN YOU TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAMMING.]
***We control the vertical, we gave up on the horizontal a long time ago.
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there is tasty rock in the rest of the world.
Seducer, heretic and infidel.
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This is a thread for MUD. How dare you!
:madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :nono: :nono: :nono: :nonod: :nonod: :nonod: :prrr: :prrr: :prrr: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax:
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[EDITED FOR VIOLATION OF VOLCANIC CONTENT RULES. THE APPROPRIATE CONTENT VALUES AND WEIRDOS COMMITTEE WILL REVIEW AND DETERMINE WHETHER A TRIP TO YOSEMITE IS REQUIRED TO ROUTE OUT THE INFIDELS. WE NOW RETURN YOU TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAMMING.]
Why does he always look pissed? You talkin' to ME?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/36431119763_309eaf4200_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xvi1Ex)
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So if Jim or I posted photos of today's class three chute up a 13,500 foot peak, that wouldn't fit either?
Can I at least mention the name? What a great name: Cloudripper Peak.
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Unless it involves MUD - get off my lawn! :out: :ciappa: :prrr:
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Without freedom of expression how can I berate them?
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Berate away. We're leaving after breakfast for another peak in Little Lakes Valley. I look forward to a good beration after we get back.
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Sounds like a blast! Hurry up tho.
To quote Jon Snow "Winter is Coming"
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Berate away. We're leaving after breakfast for another peak in Little Lakes Valley. I look forward to a good beration after we get back.
DIE
Without freedom of expression how can I berate them?
Just Do It!
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Mature cheese.
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To quote Jon Snow "Winter is Coming"
F#$%ERS closed Sonora Pass and I had to come home over Tioga!
DIE
Mature cheese.
Not much a beration. Way cool summit though this morning. I will however, start another thread in the appropriate sub-section of the forum (one that will cover this and future trips climbing with those friendly people on the Sierra's east side).
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look forward to the TR
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Mature cheese.
Look who is talking Mr Special Edition.
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F#$%ERS closed Sonora Pass and I had to come home over Tioga!
Not much a beration. Way cool summit though this morning. I will however, start another thread in the appropriate sub-section of the forum (one that will cover this and future trips climbing with those friendly people on the Sierra's east side).
Yes it's not like you have an ENTIRE FORUM dedicated to this topic.
And thanks for implying that I am unfriendly.
I'll show ya unfriendly.
Damn, I think I may need some Anger Management.
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So if Jim or I posted photos of today's class three chute up a 13,500 foot peak, that wouldn't fit either?
Can I at least mention the name? What a great name: Cloudripper Peak.
Much appreciated.
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Not appreciated in the least.
Keep it up and I am going to do something rash.
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Hey MUD - can you lock this thread to keep the bozos from jackin?
Oh...wait...you are one of them.
Have you all not heard about the menacing clown ordinance?
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Keep it up and I am going to do something rash.
Poison oak again? Please don't....
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I promise, I'll stick to Pinns-related stuff in this thread, and that I'll start another (short) thread as I indicated. (First I've got to find time, which I will this weekend.)
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Keep it up and I am going to do something rash.
Your normal PO rash or do you have a new special type? >:D
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
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Hey MUD - can you lock this thread to keep the bozos from jackin?
Oh...wait...you are one of them.
Have you all not heard about the menacing clown ordinance?
This Forum was jacked the day it was created.
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
that's hilarious. I don't know why exactly, but I laughed out loud.
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
Freaking awesome. sleepless in Seattle.
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Freaking awesome.
:)
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
Just so you all know, it was my suggestion to ask Mud about this - clink is a THIEF! :lol:
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Today’s adventure was dominated by the winds of insanity. There were gusts up to 35mph. Kat led Satyr and then I worked on the rappel anchor. After that, we started a new route across the slot. 2 bolts so far on decent rock in a water streak. The Hedonist. We’ll finish it next time out. Should be a nice addition to Satyr and the other lines we’ve got an eye on out there.
Kat suns her toes after leading Satyr.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/37073208992_3f3e405e12_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yu2Tqu)
Stance for bolt 1
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/37245189225_19a0fdddc1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKek9V)
Stance for bolt 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36407599204_cc2e58a3c1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtdsPE)
Looks like rain may actually put a damper on things tomorrow.
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Sorry to miss that. KC looks happy on Satyr. Did she dangle her feet over the void?
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Sorry to miss that. KC looks happy on Satyr. Did she dangle her feet over the void?
She did not - but she did a great job leading the route and downclimbing the nubs and horns to the revised rappel anchor - part of the new, new way - although no TR FA's were done from the revised anchor :lol:
I was surprised she stayed up there in the wind while I was working.
Still no rain on the gauge but 60% chance today with winds equal to or stronger than yesterday.
I felt a few tiny drops yesterday on stance but I wasn't deterred from my task.
Looks like it will heat back up and be clear for the work weekend.
Here's Mud in Your Eye! :ihih: :thumbup:
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The rain gauge still has not tipped at Pinns. Unfreakinbelievable!
Wind gusts to 38mph. Lip service from a blow hard.
Should have gone and finished the route!
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The rain gauge still has not tipped at Pinns. Unfreakinbelievable!
That is unbelievable - you'd think they'd a got something out of three straight days of "maybe."
Here at home we've gotten 5 1/2 inches now since Friday!!! That's per the National Weather Service site with the pipper placed right over our house. Damn close to "good riddence fire season" up here in one good storm :) :)
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We are at close to ten inches. Trees down and there are many minor slides. The transformer on our pole blew, rain extinguished the fire.
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That is crazy dudes! Doesn't sound like you'll have to quest very far for mud.
I doubt it's bentonite though - probably smectite or illite. :ihih:
The Pinns gauge finally tipped after midnight and stopped this am - a whopping .07 inches total.
5:37 14.44
4:37 14.43
3:37 14.43
2:37 14.43
1:37 14.42
0:37 14.37
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I finished The Hedonist today. 4 bolts in 95 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. I'll add rappel chains next time out. There is a 4th class route from the anchor to the summit of Goat - EDIT Old Goat Hoofs It No bolts.. Just kick it old school and walk off.
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I finished The Hedonist today. 4 bolts in 95 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. I'll add rappel chains next time out. There is a 4th class route from the anchor to the summit of Goat - Hoof It! No bolts.. Just kick it old school.
Same one you had two bolts in on October 15 ("across the slot")?
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Old Goat Hoofs It.
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Old Goat Hoofs It.
That's even better clink. Can I use it?
I wanted to get a first bolt in the water streak but ran out of time.
Let's go Saturday!
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PCAD has gotten me stoked on Pinnacles again! I'm hoping maybe we can get out on Sunday or Monday. Anyone going to be around the park those days? JC - maybe I could hit you up for a little beta for Crud and Mud? It would be nice to get back out there and actually do some of the climbs this time!
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PCAD has gotten me stoked on Pinnacles again! I'm hoping maybe we can get out on Sunday or Monday. Anyone going to be around the park those days? JC - maybe I could hit you up for a little beta for Crud and Mud? It would be nice to get back out there and actually do some of the climbs this time!
With the rains it might stay too wet to get on those shady routes at C&M. You could do Imprint and then go to the east face routes. Full sun on all of those early. Bottoms Up gets sunny after that and it still has not seen a second ascent. That is providing it actually rains this time. I won't be able to check until late tonight when I get home. I can send you my mini guide then too. I'll be hitting something sunny on Saturday with Kat. Probably High Peaks via the west side.
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Beanolar (Baby!!) making an early lead of The Barber Pole:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5646/30769326256_2b37f38719_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5484/30769327736_3707d3b9b3_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5714/30769336326_a10db796fd_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5621/30769337526_99a0944fc8_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5761/30769342206_0ee663299a_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5750/30769346186_4f77995fb3_c.jpg)
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J.C on the first ascent of The Barber Pole:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5624/30769316076_dc4a2f32ba_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5634/30769316856_e65c4e49ee_c.jpg)
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And we all get caught in odd poses now and then, right? What's Laura doing in this one:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5605/30769334526_bb2a346631_c.jpg)
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And we all get caught in odd poses now and then, right? What's Laura doing in this one:
Admonishing JC for not using chalk like a proper climber?
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Certain reminder of how spoiled I have become lately with good rock quality, helping JC finish up a 5.9+ bit of shit-f#ckery.
it was Gruff and between JC immediately suggesting it be erased upon topping out and Caleb & Aaron mentioning something about The Anus of History as a name, we had to laugh and move on.
We found an easy route up the pinnacle 90 feet south of Satyr, by traversing south through the cleft on the west side. A 3rd class scramble up a chute leads to a 4th class move to gain the summit.
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Certain reminder of how spoiled I have become lately with good rock quality, helping JC finish up a 5.9+ bit of shit-f#ckery.
it was Gruff and between JC immediately suggesting it be erased upon topping out and Caleb & Aaron mentioning something about The Anus of History as a name, we had to laugh and move on.
We found an easy route up the pinnacle 90 feet south of Satyr, by traversing south through the cleft on the west side. A 3rd class scramble up a chute leads to a 4th class move to gain the summit.
Stop fauning over your new route! :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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The who part is easy. But what the hell is he riding?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5530/30852251505_6bc042212c_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5573/30764415521_2a70523608_c.jpg)
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Dino Rodeo - easy walk out to a hairy straddle. (3rd class?) Bucking could ensue if the San Andreas or one of the local fault splays decides to cut loose while you're up there.
The drop away is farther than illustrated - Pinnacles version of the diving board :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Too bad the Cheese Wall was composed of Limburger and Blue Cheese crumbles. :crazy: :frown2:
Good place for a picnic. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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...easy walk out...
Really? You almost cut your hand off on the broken brush; almost bled to death. Easy?
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I thought Blood Bath Rodeo might be a bit extreme.
We should go back up, throw a rope over the nose and simul jug to the underside.
clink could do a hand stand above us! :lol:
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Here is a closeup of my awkward drill stance for bolt 4 on Barber Pole.
It was balancy and really weird - the only good rock within reach was way off to the side.
I could barely hold the drill holder and my hits were tricky and lacked leverage.
My knees were pressed into the wall with my hips spread out and my feet were at odd angles.
Combine that with a big chunk breaking off while I was trying to surface - which meant chiseling a new surface.
That slung knob probably would not have held a fall.
In other words - a really fun time!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/37102156171_6e6b5bb652_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwAfpM)
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Here is Brad enjoying his redpoint before we added a bolt to my 30 foot runout.
Another bold maneuver erased for all time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/36430507953_9bf45f7ce5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XveSN6)
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It should be made clear though that "they" added that bolt at the request of the first ascentionists (me and J.C.). It wasn't some random act.
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And by the way, can you add a blown up photo of the pants I am wearing in that photo please? That was the fourth time they'd ever been worn. No holes, no rips, no errors 8)
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It should be made clear though that "they" added that bolt at the request of the first ascentionists (me and J.C.). It wasn't some random act.
I knew that was coming - surprised you took the bait :lol:
EDIT: I changed the they to we.
You and I got to lead it as a runout but because we are wise old men we decided not to leave it that way for future generations. Here is something for them - Kat is standing at the stance for what was the original 5th bolt (now the 6th).
I marked the location of the 4th bolt so the horde that flocks to lead this route can see the original distance between bolts.
Of course they could just skip bolt 5 :ihih: :devildevil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/36395054604_c6442f1c56_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs7aKs)
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And by the way, can you add a blown up photo of the pants I am wearing in that photo please? That was the fourth time they'd ever been worn. No holes, no rips, no errors 8)
INCONCEIVABLE!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/37054611726_b9c782ea86_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ysoz6Y)
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I knew that was coming - surprised you took the bait :lol:
One never knows who's lurking (and will get the wrong idea).
You and I got to lead it as a runout but because we are wise old men we decided not to leave it that way for future generations. Here is something for them - Kat is standing at the stance for what was the original 5th bolt (now the 6th).
I marked the location of the 4th bolt so the horde that flocks to lead this route can see the original distance between bolts.
Of course they could just skip bolt 5 :ihih: :devildevil:
And for the multi-hundreth time, each of us was one broken hold away from that legendary fall. I was perfectly happy to not take it this time ::)
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INCONCEIVABLE!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/37054611726_b9c782ea86_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ysoz6Y)
Closer!
And I want written confirmation that this particular pair of shorts (yes, those are "normal" shorts aren't they?) had no holes except where holes where built into them ;D
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Closer!
And I want written confirmation that this particular pair of shorts (yes, those are "normal" shorts aren't they?) had no holes except where holes where built into them ;D
Closer? The resolution won't be worth it.
I will confirm that Brad indeed was wearing pants that had no holes and no patches.
It didn't seem to affect his climbing either. :lol:
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Closer? The resolution won't be worth it.
I will confirm that Brad indeed was wearing pants that had no holes and no patches.
It didn't seem to affect his climbing either. :lol:
And confirm that they were SHORTS too. "Normal" full length shorts.
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And confirm that they were SHORTS too. "Normal" full length shorts.
What? What shorts? I see pants. :biggrin:
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What? What shorts? I see pants. :biggrin:
Confirms what I always suspected.
People are gonna be jealous of my shorts no matter how long they are.
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Getting the first bolt drilled on Gruff 5.9
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4385/36834533330_4b54645fb7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBsS)
lasher and the Cover Girl getting the second bolt in on Gruff
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36834533760_085827d058_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBAh)
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The rock on the right hand side of Gruff is as bad as it looks.
Unfortunately some of the stuff on the left side is not so hot either.
I'm not sure if it will evolve into harder or easier terrain as more stuff gets torn off.
It's a shame because the line looks so fun from the ground.
No sense crying over spilled goat's milk - carry on...
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lasher got this great shot from Satyr of beanolar leading The Hedonist - 5.3R*
It goes up and right from just below the big grassy hummocks - The Hedonist has hairy armpits :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/37232636495_91d6a5ddba_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YJ7ZEx)
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Retire this one or keep using it? >:(
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5610/30883714526_892495efe2_c.jpg)
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retire
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F4 will say, retire it to Mr. Mud. He'll use it.
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I thought you said it was a core shot? That looks like sheath damage - although the colors don't look right.
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True
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I thought you said it was a core shot? That looks like sheath damage - although the colors don't look right.
It is definitely a core shot. That whiteness one can see in the middle? That's core for sure.
I actually already decided to retire that part of the rope (and use the rest as a half-rope). But I thought it was worth posting the photo.
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F4 will say, retire it to Mr. Mud. He'll use it.
Actually, it's our beloved Mr. Cummins that might actually use a rope like that. He pushes that envelope with a complete nonchalance that blows me away :o
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Back to the Mud.
Kat and I humped up to the High Peaks yesterday and did a new route on Ridge Crest Rock.
We were quite pleased with the way this route turned out.
It provides a fun and bolted alternative to the 5.2 route in the book - which is not 5.2 by the way.
We also got treated to quite the condor show as they soared and circled overhead for much of the day.
Here is an overview shot of the route. The first bolt is at the top of the exposed rib/bridge that leads to the fun slab.
Across the Great Divide 5.5*
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/36407197744_47595bdc70_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtbptW)
Two more bolts and a big sling knob protect moves up the slab and then over the bulge.
Here is Kat with the knob slung and the last bolt clipped - contemplating the moves over the bulge.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/36407197514_6a543b46e7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtbppY)
Once over the bulge, you join the upper part of the existing route - sorry - no more bolts.
There is however, an anchor with rappel rings now.
Kat nears the summit to finish the coveted 2nd ascent and another snaking of Brad :lol: :lol: :lol: :nono: :rolleyes: :out: :crazy: :devildevil: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/36407197194_d9eca8e822_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xtbpjs)
100 feet of fun climbing to a huge summit with nice views.
Several groups were headed up the Juniper Canyon trail as we were headed down - no doubt questing for the super moon.
It was shining bright as we departed the parking area and headed home.
The view of the moon got snuffed by fog as soon as we got to 101.
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Kat nears the summit to finish the coveted 2nd ascent and another snaking of Brad :lol: :lol: :lol: :nono: :rolleyes: :out: :crazy: :devildevil: :ihih:
Looks familiar. I think I soloed that back when i was doing guidebook research. :P :P
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Wilderness Wickedness.^^^
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Looks familiar. I think I soloed that back when i was doing guidebook research. :P :P
Yep. I figured that or it was on your legal pad. ::) :idea: :yawn:
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Yep. I figured that or it was on your legal pad. ::) :idea: :yawn:
Actually neither. But I get pissy when I'm deprived of "my" second ascent ::)
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How did you guys approach ridge rock? I was just on the other side for part of the day yesterday and did not see you walk in from the outhouse. I did take a nap for a bit. Too funny.
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How did you guys approach ridge rock? I was just on the other side for part of the day
Do tell
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How did you guys approach ridge rock? I was just on the other side for part of the day yesterday and did not see you walk in from the outhouse. I did take a nap for a bit. Too funny.
We went in past Beak around 10ish. Kat was asking about you on the hike from the Outhouse.
I too wondered what you might be up to and was talking about the 100 foot slab you said you found for us a while back.
We hiked out around 4:00.
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Actually neither. But I get pissy when I'm deprived of "my" second ascent ::)
You wouldn't mind if you saw how happy Kat was to get a new lead and a 2nd ascent :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Been gettin' after this thing since late yesterday afternoon - hoping to finish it tomorrow with Brad and clink.
Kat got this money shot today of me getting up to set up drilling the 4th bolt. Pretty fun climb so far.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/37059852822_b4a454fcd5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRr6G)
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Hanging on a sling on the mongo-big lodestone, drilling bolt four:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5775/31404306975_b95850d260_c.jpg)
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Looks good
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They are well along on the new trail from the West Side Visitors Center to lower West Side parking (I didn't even know they'd started building it!!):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5476/31035477400_408c1a32db_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5786/31035526830_b47af1e181_c.jpg)
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Drilling the first bolt:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5601/31035488330_9bf9170aed_c.jpg)
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We worked again today with clink but still didn't quite get finished - we are close!
Brad should have some good shots of clink since I spent most of my time today belaying.
Brad drilling bolt 5
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36394458234_c340b655f2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47td)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/36394457364_d5c2eaf018_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47dd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/37059854432_af8b47bd68_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRrzs)
Me drilling bolt 7
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36394457264_442529776d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47bu)
clink got in bolts 8 and 9. It sounds like the anchor may be next...just a bit higher.
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These nuts roped me in despite my knowing full well that these are the same two guys who climbed on Flies on a Pile. The roulette aspect of the route diminished each time the designated masochist went up for a new bolt. Out of my comfort zone but a rewarding experience nevertheless.
Brad was needing stuff, he trailed a rope to enable the procurement of various items. While sending up a socket, sling, or biners, JC moved upwards causing Brad to suddenly drop a couple of feet, causing spontaneous excitement. ;D
We were uncertain of the end of route but the rock outside the chute at the top was relatively solid with big holds allowing a cool exit onto the headwall at the top. 12 feet to go?
Thanks guys for the invite.
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...allowing a cool exit onto the headwall at the top.
Not just cool, really cool:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5688/31322960461_cd9deacbf8_c.jpg)
Meanwhile, 100 feet up and right, these guys were waiting for a mistake:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5704/31068387860_5dd22c310a_c.jpg)
Thanks guys for the invite.
Any time.
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Brad was needing stuff, he trailed a rope to enable the procurement of various items. While sending up a socket, sling, or biners, JC moved upwards causing Brad to suddenly drop a couple of feet, causing spontaneous excitement. ;D
Brad was kind enough to demonstrate a proper attentive belay later while I was drilling.(photo by clink) :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37059856802_a1b87650a2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRshj)
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P.S. In my defense - Brad already had the bolt in, partially tightened and clipped.
I had an unwelcome thrill when the main knob I was hanging on to drill started disintegrating right in front of my eyes. It started spontaneously fracturing like thin ice in a cartoon and the bottom half fell away. In horror and a bit panicked, I started searching for something else to sling above me and all the available choices were loose. Luckily there was still one good knob just above the one that failed, so I went all in on that one and managed to finish the bolt.
We all had a thrill later when clink was up high drilling from a taxing stemming stance with the wind howling and a condor flew right over his head!
No pic of that but how bout one of clink in that stance?
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Brad was kind enough to demonstrate a proper attentive belay later while I was drilling.(photo by clink) :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37059856802_a1b87650a2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRshj)
Damn, busted. But, after all, I was just learning on the job....
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...no pic of that but how bout one of clink in that stance?
I've got a few of him drilling in that stance. They'll have to wait until I get home though.
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P.S. In my defense - Brad already had the bolt in, partially tightened and clipped.
Yeah, J.C. stood up while I was on tension through his Gri Gri. Simulated fall :o
I had an unwelcome thrill when the main knob I was hanging on to drill started disintegrating right in front of my eyes. It started spontaneously fracturing like thin ice in a cartoon and the bottom half fell away. In horror and a bit panicked, I started searching for something else to sling above me and all the available choices were loose. Luckily there was still one good knob just above the one that failed, so I went all in on that one and managed to finish the bolt.
Normal people would downclimb to regroup if/when a slung knob starts to disintegrate while in use.
Not our bull-near-a-red-flag J.C. He started by throwing the chunks of disintegrated knob off in disgust. Then he charged HIGHER to rest. I tried to stay calm as I insisted that he downclimb for at least a short time to regroup (and, surprise, surprise, he actually listened to me!).
All part of the excitement.
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Yeah, J.C. stood up while I was on tension through his Gri Gri. Simulated fall :o
I tried to stay calm as I insisted that he downclimb for at least a short time to regroup (and, surprise, surprise, he actually listened to me!).
All part of the excitement.
Yes...you stayed calm in both instances. Not me. I get tourette's when I am on lead.
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Is this near a climb that Brad, Mud and I did on the high peaks trail from Juniper side?
No specifics required, just wondering out loud.
Looks intriguing, but tales of loose rock? I'm going back to Twinkle Toes for awhile.
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Is this near a climb that Brad, Mud and I did on the high peaks trail from Juniper side?
No specifics required, just wondering out loud.
Looks intriguing, but tales of loose rock? I'm going back to Twinkle Toes for awhile.
No, no-where near Operation Pinnacles Freedom. We haven't redpointed it yet, so no description here (and you weren't asking me for one). Call me or email if you want to know right where it is.
And the amount of loose rock is about normal for a new Pinns route. It's got a lot of good rock that is staying put, it's steep for the grade, it's a longer route (end point will be at about 85 feet?), the finish is even steeper (and exposed), and it's in a very, very scenic spot. Although it isn't done yet, I'm thinking at least one star, maybe two.
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Yes...you stayed calm in both instances. Not me. I get tourette's when I am on lead.
That is so wrong and I'm still laughing.
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(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5592/31068395040_c0abb9e865_c.jpg)
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He looks like he's levitating at that stance - what a weird aspect compared to what I could see from my belay position - brings to mind the baby butt wipes from the other thread :lol: :ciappa:
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And the amount of loose rock is about normal for a new Pinns route. It's got a lot of good rock that is staying put, it's steep for the grade, it's a longer route (end point will be at about 85 feet?), the finish is even steeper (and exposed), and it's in a very, very scenic spot. Although it isn't done yet, I'm thinking at least one star, maybe two.
Sorry but we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.
Of all the new routes I've been in on in the last couple years this rates at the bottom of the list for rock quality.
It is surprisingly bad for being in a water streak.
I have never seen such a poor degree/lack of cementation in some of the rock along the sides - which luckily isn't necessary for upward progress. The band of "good" rock is extremely narrow and even a good percentage of that is bad or suspect. In some spots it is like a pile of sand with cobblestones sitting in it.
Some of the movement is interesting and the location is nice but I would say no stars. No way.
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After questioning Brad about the "rock quality" factor on star routes at Pinns I am beginning to understand (he is crazy) that rock quality is not necessarily a must for a star. The "5.7" section on the first part of your route was weird with side pulls and pinches. I felt as insecure on it as on early ascents of Balconies chutes. The climbing is moderate, gets steep and puzzling. Exiting the chute was (like) cool (really). It is fairly well protected but because it ungulates you could bust an ankle on the crux.
I thought about the whole experience today, the hike in and out, listening to you two's banter, seeing Climberdude rope soloing across the little valley, going down by myself to check out the pretty or precious stones cliff, and the close encounter with the curious condor.
"Juke Box Hero"
Standing in the rain, with his head hung low
Couldn't get a ticket, it was a sold out show
Heard the roar of the crowd, he could picture the scene
Put his ear to the wall, then like a distant scream
He heard one guitar, just blew him away
He saw stars in his eyes, and the very next day
Bought a beat up six string in a secondhand store
Didn't know how to play it, but he knew for sure
That one guitar, felt good in his hands
Didn't take long, to understand
Just one guitar, slung way down low
Was one way ticket, only one way to go
So he started rockin'
Ain't never gonna stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
Someday he's gonna make it to the top
And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero
He took one guitar, juke box hero, stars in his eyes
Juke box hero, he'll come alive tonight
In a town without a name, in a heavy downpour
Thought he passed his own shadow, by the backstage door
Like a trip through the past, to that day in the rain
And that one guitar made his whole life change
Now he needs to keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top
And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Yeah, juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
With that one guitar he'll come alive
Come alive tonight
Yeah, he's gotta keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top
And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Just one guitar, put stars in his eyes
He's just a juke box hero, aah aah aah
Juke box hero, juke box hero, he's got stars in his eyes
Stars in his eyes
Get Waldo's opinion.
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Replace the star system with the little guy from the chronicle movie reviews. He could be asleep or clapping ecstatically . Just add some rock projectiles raining down on him when needed.
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After questioning Brad about the "rock quality" factor on star routes at Pinns I am beginning to understand(he is crazy) that rock quality is not necessarily a must for a star. The "5.7" section on the first part of your route was weird with side pulls and pinches. I felt as insecure on it as on early ascents of Balconies chutes. The climbing is moderate, gets steep and puzzling. Exiting the chute was (like) cool(really). It is fairly well protected but because it ungulates you could bust an ankle on the crux.
I thought about the whole experience today, the hike in and out, listening to you two's banter, seeing Climberdude rope soloing across the little valley, going down by myself to check out the pretty or precious stones cliff, and the close encounter with the curious condor.
Thanks for the input clink but you never said if you think it is star worthy.
I like your use of ungulates - you old goat.
I think rock quality should definitely be a factor.
I look at that plus interesting movement/challenge/excitement, exposure, fun factor. Sometimes things like uniqueness of a formation or a great summit come into play but those should be secondary imo.
An argument could be made for Barber Pole based on length, challenging moves, exposure and definitely a cool summit. If Hoof It gets a star then so does Barber Pole imo. No way either of them should get more than one and based on overall rock quality, Barber Pole is a better candidate. Tough call. Gut reaction is neither gets a star.
I am requisitioning for a name change - On a Hoof and a Prayer (since Hoof It was my name anyway)
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I am requisitioning for a name change - On a Hoof and a Prayer
That's How the Feta Crumbles
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Quested for Mud with Brad and Jon today to celebrate Brad's birthday. We finished the climb and Brad and I both led it. I got the coveted 2nd ascent without having to snake anyone! :lol:
clink got another new line started before we had to beat the darkness. We all had a fun day.
Brad heads up for the redpoint of Hoof It 5.8*
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/37059853982_cd388401c3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRrrG)
Brad finding a good spot for the anchor
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/36394457754_654a345d9f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47jW)
clink gets the new line going - we'll call it Shades of David Spade for now
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/37059901422_377cf3f400_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRFxC)
and this is for Brad from the cultural attache - Eyegor choosing the brain of Hans Delbruck
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36394529264_c12eab49b5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs4tzS)
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Nice line for a nice bday day! HBD!
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Nice line for a nice bday day!
Yes it was Munge, warm and dry. Last Sunday the chute was dripping and Brad managed to make it up a few bolts before bailing. At this point I suggested the name of Wet Thwarts, but he wouldn't deviate from Hoof It. Looking at the forecast Brad decided to do a one day blast. Meet in Prunedale at 11am, hike to base of climb by 1ish, back to Prunedale by 6pm. I don't know if you have noticed but some days Brad climbs with finesse and others like a gorilla. His anchor was artistic.
On the hike in JC and Brad pointed out a cherry section of rock they had found. We had enough time to taste test it on the way out. So good! Looks like Gavin territory to the right.
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Nice line for a nice bday day! HBD!
It was. The rock had almost totally dried out - just a hint of damp in a couple spots. The line ended up climbing pretty nice. It is committing to get to the first bolt - 5.6 or 7 (somewhat height dependent). I think we all agreed that it has two distinct cruxes - getting past the first bolt and then again between 5 and 6. I thought they were about equal in difficulty(5.7) but Brad and clink both thought the upper one was 5.8. It has some pretty interesting movement and nice stemming in a couple spots. The moves to bolt 8 provide exposure and some cool holds - followed by a fun path to the last bolt and then the anchor. The anchor is in a nice spot and equalized perfectly. 90 feet of climbing. The overall rock quality could be better but there are enough good holds between the questionable stuff. It keeps your attention from bottom to top with some nice rests.
Anchor on Hoof It His anchor was artistic.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36394457094_193b72c909_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs478y)
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clink's post makes me want to delete mine :lol: :biggrin:
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Nice work, gang. I think I remember looking at this area with Brad earlier in the year, especially where clink is drilling in the photo. I'll have to revisit with folks in 2017!
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...I don't know if you have noticed but some days Brad climbs with finesse and others like a gorilla. His anchor was artistic.
What can I say? Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't.
It has a lot to do with whether I've warmed up and how cold it is outside.
Yesterday? Yesterday I didn't feel a day over 56 :P
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...and this is for Brad from the cultural attache - Eyegor choosing the brain of Hans Delbruck
It is unbelievable to me that you would remember this. And very impressive.
After the J.C.s got into my car to finish the drive I listened to a last bit of a "Hardcore History" podcast by Dan Carlin (the podcast was "Wrath of the Khans," about Ghengis Khan - highly, highly recommended!).
During the five minutes I listened, the podcast referred to an opinion about the mongols by Hans Delbruck, a respected historian from the 1800s (the podcast called him "brilliant" I think).
J.C. heard the reference and then immediately said something like: "Hans Delbruck. Isn't his the brain that Eyegor doesn't take in the movie Young Frankenstein?" Totally out of the blue.
His reference above shows that yes, that was the brain Eyegor did not take. Wow, cultural attache indeed! Cultural attache extrordinaire is more like it.
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While the analytical portion of JC's brain is almost average, the storage capacity behind that forehead must be immense. :D
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While the analytical portion of JC's brain is almost average, the storage capacity behind that forehead must be immense. :D
I guess my analytical skills parallel my footwork.
Oh and by the way...DIE
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Brad works on Hoof It anchor
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/36394457654_a1b62c0218_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47id)
clink follows Hoof It
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36394457444_392f2e7378_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47eA)
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Rainy day...anchors away :lol: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/37089188471_b6464d33eb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvrMyK)
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Making chains for snow trecking on the unicycle?
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Making chains for snow trecking on the unicycle?
That new helmet makes you look like you have juvenile horns Mr Satyr :lol: :out: :yesnod: :ihih: :devildevil:
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So good! Looks like Gavin territory to the right.
What am I? Chopped Liver?
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Not the route you showed me. Right of where I bouldered Dumdum.
Sunny forecast, we are going to have to get on that good rock Cookie.
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Not the route you showed me. Right of where I bouldered Dumdum.
Sunny forecast, we are going to have to get on that good rock Cookie.
Let's go.
No rain today.
The forecast is that Santa Choss is comin' to town :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Let's go.
No rain today.
The forecast is that Santa Choss is comin' to town :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
Now, um, what am I chopped liver? I spotted the line first and I'm in on the FA. Pick a day on the 28th or later and we'll go then.
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Santa Choss
Twas the night before Christmas and all about the Park,
Noal and Mud were still climbing,
an hour after dark.
All of the other climbers were listening for meal numbers being called at the Super Taqueria,
Mud refuses to eat there,
it gives him ...
Merry Christmas y'all!
JC, ever heard of the 12 days of stealing Brad's routes? You distract him while I grab the white legal pad inscibed with his secret list.>:D
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it gives him ...
Duuude - that belly laugh was better than any present! :lol: :lol: :lol:
JC, ever heard of the 12 days of stealing Brad's routes?
You distract him while I grab the white legal pad inscibed with his secret list.>:D
We only have 3 days starting tomorrow... :eeeek: :devildevil:
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Dats alotta chain
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clink working on bolt 1 of Mr Mud Goes to Washington
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4345/36834532810_acd0d1fd03_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBiU)
Geoff Takes a break while working on bolt 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36834533410_61161aa132_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBuf)
Should we change the name to Scout Peek?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/37041876976_e2951eb6d8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yrgivj)
beano leads The Best Part of Wakin Up
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/37089265671_32ffce5e7d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvsbvM)
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Is that Resurrection backside?
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Is that Resurrection backside?
Nope. Piedras Bonitas and beano is on Coffee Can
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bolts need to be higher!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
; )
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Mud, but what counts is that your nearly death and maiming routes are in view from Mr. Mud Goes to Washington.
Also, when the cat's away...
Bolt three is in, the crack and chimney may be in reach, or not.
:)
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gotta love those Pinnacles chimneys, they are something special.
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Saw a couple folks on their way to Crud and Mud today.
clink did most of the talking up ahead of us on the trail.
Here's mud in your eye!
We went to the hinterlands and had some fun.
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We went to The Hinterlands and had some fun.
Exploring, roulette, a few bolts, pin and tricam placements. Found about 8 route possibilities along the base of a formation. Slabs on left to knobs on right.
Noal, Mud and Gavin's names were mentioned a few times as we walked under steeper(not 5.9) areas.
Primrose Pinnacle fit the description perfectly. Brad, Jim and Joel found a Pinnacles pinnacle.
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Primrose Pinnacle fit the description perfectly. Brad, Jim and Joel found a Pinnacles pinnacle.
It is a cool climb.
The start moves are extremely exposed.
True and felt like the fun kind of exposure.
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You did look like a toddler having playtime
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You did look like toddler having playtime
Maybe it was the swaddling nature of your cuddly belay :lol:
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I've been away from the forums for a while, so it's nice to see that all y'all are still up to the usual shenanigans! Definitely missing Pinnacles looking at your pictures as I huddle inside during the snow and cold of Northern Colorado. It's supposed to be warmish this weekend though, so maybe I'll be able to get outside climbing finally - can't let you guys have all of the fun in California! ;)
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I've been away from the forums for a while, so it's nice to see that all y'all are still up to the usual shenanigans! Definitely missing Pinnacles looking at your pictures as I huddle inside during the snow and cold of Northern Colorado. It's supposed to be warmish this weekend though, so maybe I'll be able to get outside climbing finally - can't let you guys have all of the fun in California! ;)
Duuuuuude. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
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Hey Scott! Great to have you check in!
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beano leads the Anvil
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/36831177630_349fe915c0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpVY)
beano and KC – It was THIS BIG!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36831551940_92542c6de8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7FkcA)
Narrowly escaping the clutches of a rampaging beano
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/36831175660_0d2221247f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Dpm1)
beano leads Pipsqueak
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36414871783_c464be05b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJGX)
Check out the differences in our climbing styles on Primrose Pinnacle (me, then clink)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36831551490_313af05112_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Fk4Q)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4425/36414871323_0f5ea8c796_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJz2)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/36831551080_0e1da36453_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7FjWL)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36414870993_bfc39e0c3e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJtk)
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Most excellent! I feel like I'm right there with you...minus the second picture that is. I can skip that one (so big and scary!). =)
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Good times, Cookies!
More crud, once this rain lets up!!
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JC had his back to the camera for all the Primrose shots. Hiding a stupid grin no doubt.
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JC had his back to the camera for all the Primrose shots. Hiding a stupid grin no doubt.
Watch who you are calling stupid boy :ihih: :devildevil:
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Good times, Cookies!
More crud, once this rain lets up!!
Ready to go. Rain Rain Go Away.
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Kat and I went to the Toes yesterday.
We climbed the South Toe and then I replaced the lead bolt and the anchor.
Here is what the NWS calls a mostly sunny day
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/37086192561_16287d9df7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvbqZ8)
Here is the old anchor. Notice the homemade hanger and huge space under the allen drop-in bolt. Whoever rapped off this bolt last used up one of their cat lives.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/37038563226_9e9a9d6b6b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqYjrG)
Someone added an anchor bolt. As far as I could tell, it is a stainless sleeve bolt with a no name brand stainless hanger. It had a 3/8 screw link and a carbon steel rap ring. I loosened it and rotated the hanger to equalize with my ASCA replacement bolt and tightened it back down. It was flush and tight, so I decided it should be okay with my replacement bolt. If anyone knows anything about it, it would be nice to know the history. I added a screwlink and single link of chain to my bolt.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/37057454532_d4c0eb02cb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsD9aS)
After I replaced the anchor I decided to replace the lead bolt. The lead bolt is three quarters of the way up the route, not about halfway up as stated in the guidebook. It was a short 3/8 star dryvin with the sleeves incorrectly installed under the Leeper hanger. The nail came out with almost no effort after getting it started with the tuning fork. The sleeves and lead sleeve slipped out easily, all in one piece.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36831175140_d2e74c6663_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Dpc3)
I plan to go back and rebolt the anchor on the North Toe on our next trip out.
I could only see one old bolt on the North summit with a piece of tied cord and an old oval biner.
The hanger looks like a Leeper.
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Kat, beano and I climbed and rebolted North Toe today.
I'll post more details and some pics later.
Beauty of a day with many condors giving us a show throughout the day.
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Kat, beano and I climbed and rebolted North Toe today.
I'll post more details and some pics later.
Beauty of a day with many condors giving us a show throughout the day.
Here's a couple pics from yesterday.
The climbing for the North Toe is the same as the South Toe route up to the only protection bolt.
Things get interesting when you turn about face and commit to the North Toe's face.
I'm still quite a few chimney moves below the only bolt – North Toe/South Toe - thanks to beanolar for getting this pic.
You can scroll back two posts to my labeled pic to see where the bolt is. Neither of the gals wanted to lead this climb.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36831175410_af07b239fb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpgG)
beano doing the Toe jam – this is the squeeziest squeeze chimney we’ve done in a while
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4359/37038562426_33f7436896_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqYjcU)
KC follows North Toe – I thought this was a scary lead because the only protection bolt is across on the South Toe (behind you) and way below you by the time you are doing the crux moves on the North Toe's face. The crux moves on the North Toe also depend on a single good knob (her right hand is on it) providing you are willing to go all in. If that sucker ever breaks, the climb will be a lot harder. My exact words were - If this knob goes, I'm gone. This is another Pinns no fall route. It deserves an R imo.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/36831176470_8fb2110521_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpzY)
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OMG FUN climb!! Too bad it's too scary to lead, at least for this bean. Glad John took the bullet for us, and swapped out the old junky hw. We need more chimneys!!
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Chimneys hmmmmm.......get JC to climb OCD Overdrive with you. It has one of his favorite chimneys.
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Athletes toe jam ;D
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Chimneys hmmmmm.......get JC to climb OCD Overdrive with you. It has one of his favorite chimneys.
Duuuuude :lol:
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Athletes toe jam ;D
You don't have to jam toes but just about everything else. It is tough getting through that squeeze. Even my harness waist belt was catching and my back loop. Put what little bit of gear you need on the left side or you're sunk.
beano tried the rap line on North Toe on TR.
clink - you should unlock the sequence and get it clean for the TR FA of Toe Cheese :lol: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin: :puke:
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I developed a bad toothache today but I have a plan to get rid of it soon. :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :yikes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4434/37038456996_29544d2368_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqXLS9)
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I shared a Mud Bath today with Brad.
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I shared a Mud Bath today with Brad.
Kat and I got in after they got out :yikes:
Brad and clink proceeded to get Squeaky Clean, followed that up by rolling around in Ashes and topped it off by buffing it out to an adamantine finish :lol:
P.S. POW!!!
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JC left a ring.
Mud Bath was well worth the wait and the effort. Crazy good rock! It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.
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Brad's second bolt of the day was an awkward, bend to the side, and drill with your left hand, because the rock at shoulder height and up from the stance wasn't premium sounding. He had to down climb to the previous bolt many times to unkink, great effort. Where were Jim, Steve or Caleb when you need them? My stances were cushy.
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Mud Bath was well worth the wait and the effort. It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.
Thanks for the invite but I needed a summit and a mellow day with KC.
Mud Bath is a fine addition to the crag.
Pow! is done and from what we could see today Brad finished Boom! as well.
Trouble at Rubble continues to confound and perplex.
Spent a nice day with Waldo and Kat.
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Onomatopoeia Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36413625743_8e7db477e9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtKmiv)
Pow! Starts on an exposed knobby face next to a protectable crack, goes past a short headwall (and a bolt), and finishes with optional sling knobs on very low angle slab. This was my drill stance.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/36390824484_e5c286f7ee_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJuhm)
View from the summit of Pow!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4373/37056324342_6c88e77884_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsxmcQ)
Clink working on the last bolt on Mud Bath
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4423/37085430291_815492e9be_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv7wox)
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JC left a ring.
Ewwwww!
It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.
I watched J.C. lead Mud Bath from above (I was on rappel and just hanging out). I gotta say, it really was a pleasure to watch; at an age when many of his peers use canes just to walk, he floats up Pinnacles rock so smoothly. Truly a master of his medium.
(And I can make the comment about age because I am right, right behind him in years.)
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Brad - I heard you popped in a bolt, made a few moves and Boom! you were done. :lol:
One more of Pow!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36390824184_d523c5564d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJucb)
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You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.
One exclamation point or two?
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You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.
One exclamation point or two?
One seems to be the standard.
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You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.
I went up and right from the end of the crack to get on the slab.
It looked like you could also go out and left - then up on knobs - but it didn't flow as naturally that way from where I was after placing the bolt.
Was Boom! any fun?
I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.
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I went up and right from the end of the crack to get on the slab.
It looked like you could also go out and left - then up on knobs - but it didn't flow as naturally that way from where I was after placing the bolt.
Was Boom! any fun?
I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.
Man, you're fast. Pop quiz: what other route on the list did I make a change to this morning?
Working on the Boom! description (and all the others). The first sentence to the Boom! description will be something like: "The only redeeming quality of this route is the tremendous exposure of the first moves." Or something like that.
I could see on Pow! going up and right, but I went left and then up. Both seem like they would be about the same. I thought maybe about giving the route an "R," but the sling knobs above (at least three possibilities) really were good to pretty good. So probably not an "R?"
Will I be hearing anything about how your Sunday went?
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I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.
BTW, I led this with Laura following (Cover Girl). But I failed to read my own route description about the gear size and so I had stuff that was too small to use. But I was able to sling two good knobs and one great knob before going over the headwall. After climbing the route, I'm quite sure that the "party crashers" climbed the same path.
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Man, you're fast. Pop quiz: what other route on the list did I make a change to this morning?
I'll guess - Unlikely-looking bulge on Mud Diamond?
Working on the Boom! description (and all the others). The first sentence to the Boom! description will be something like: "The only redeeming quality of this route is the tremendous exposure of the first moves." Or something like that.
I could see on Pow! going up and right, but I went left and then up. Both seem like they would be about the same. I thought maybe about giving the route an "R," but the sling knobs above (at least three possibilities) really were good to pretty good. So probably not an "R?"
I thought you might go left. It's pretty enticing. I think the right variation might be slightly harder, based on the size of the holds. It felt natural to continue up the ramp as the crack pinches out and then transition onto the slab (5.4?) Those knobs out left are really big. Were they solid? There is also a really good sling knob to the right of my stance for the bolt. I thought about just going with that and not placing the bolt. In the end I felt it would be irresponsible given the exposure and fall potential. I think the bolt is right where you want it.
I just couldn't bring myself to place another bolt on that low angle terrain above and wasn't convinced the moves were hard enough to warrant an R (close call). Kat didn't want to lead it. I am not sure either of those two lower knobs would hold a fall. The last/higher one would but you are almost touching the top by then. Take another look at my pics and you can see my slings.
Will I be hearing anything about how your Sunday went?
Not much to report. Lots of PO up there on the lower approach path.
I turned back and no one else even wanted to go down there.
The two big towers are easy to get to but still looked very unappealing and no one was feeling it.
We could see you on Ono.
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I'll guess - Unlikely-looking bulge on Mud Diamond?
Nice try. Nope, I changed the Merry Poppins description a little since I walked by it on Sunday.
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^^^^
Funny though, the two guys you sent to Crudn'Mud on Sunday agreed wholeheartedly with that part of the Mud Diamond description (as you'll see once I get the new routes up, I climbed with them yesterday). They looked up at that bulge and thought "no way." They were tickled as hell at how it then climbed.
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I thought you might go left. It's pretty enticing. I think the right variation might be slightly harder, based on the size of the holds. It felt natural to continue up the ramp as the crack pinches out and then transition onto the slab (5.4?) Those knobs out left are really big. Were they solid? There is also a really good sling knob to the right of my stance for the bolt. I thought about just going with that and not placing the bolt. In the end I felt it would be irresponsible given the exposure and fall potential. I think the bolt is right where you want it.
I just couldn't bring myself to place another bolt on that low angle terrain above and wasn't convinced the moves were hard enough to warrant an R (close call). Kat didn't want to lead it. I am not sure either of those two lower knobs would hold a fall. The last/higher one would but you are almost touching the top by then.
We thought 5.3 was just right. And the bolt is in the right place. Without the one bolt, a broken hold could result in a 60 foot fall from halfway up a 35 foot route (off the cliff face to the right). One bolt is just the correct number for that climb.
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Not much to report. Lots of PO up there on the lower approach path.
I turned back and no one else even wanted to go down there.
The two big towers are easy to get to but still looked very unappealing and no one was feeling it.
Did you get anything climbed at all?
Should I take a research/rebolting day and go up there with you? If so should we wait until next season (when the P.O. is dormant)?
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Rubles in the Rubble.
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Rubles in the Rubble.
I saw no rubies, just rubble. I need to hear how Brad got up and down that thing without crashing!
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I saw no rubies, just rubble. I need to hear how Brad got up and down that thing without crashing!
I checked my journal. I'd thought I did those near Thanksgiving of 1996 (because I recall hiking up there with Vicki and Katie and Katie was in the kiddie pack). It was actually November 23, 1997 (so Katie would have been just two years old). I have no memory of those routes.
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I have no memory of those routes.
And actually, I do recall a few things. Being surprised at how easy the approach was (from above). Carriage bolts for anchors on one (?) of the Teeth (no hangers if I recall - I later saw similar aid bolts on The Shaft). I remember doing the Teeth first and saving the 5.7 for last. Free soloing that with a backpacked rope on my back wasn't too bad, but committing to the rappel on whatever the anchor was at the top of that really frightened me (but I didn't have much choice at that point).
I also recall the film canister I found (I think on one of the Teeth). The notes were so fragile that they started cracking when I tried to unroll them. Rather than put them back, I brought them home and photo-copied them. I may have those copies around somewhere, but I'm not sure where.
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I didn't expect to get any insight into the area but thanks for looking.
It looks like it is my choss to bear.
Noal will like the tat that is on the West Tooth - looks like the same thing he found at Knifeblade.
I still need to go back there too.
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Hemp Noose. Can you post up a photo of that thing? It's super cool.
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Hemp Noose. Can you post up a photo of that thing? It's super cool.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/37056986732_670646138a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsAK7m)
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Would you rappell off of that even when it was new?
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Suitable as a gift at a coming out party for your skeleton.
Bone Voyage.
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/37056986732_670646138a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsAK7m)
Reminds me a an actual noose randomly hanging from a tree up on the third tier of Chipmunk Flat's Third Buttress. It's the weirdest thing; it made the hair on the back of my neck stand out.
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It may catch on as a defendant's tie in death penalty cases, to play on jury sympathy.
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Damn you J.C., you plant a bug and I end up wasting an entire evening. I found them!! They were in the attic in a huge box marked "Pinnacles Guidebook, notes and redundant stuff."
Here are photocopies of the notes I made just after I climbed the Rubble Wall routes (I sent my originals to David Rubine, author of the then most current Pinnacles guidebook):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2896/33592173436_97e8839491_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3783/33249409630_7443a92805_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3845/33249410940_2ac4bd57a3_b.jpg)
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2866/33249411760_ffeeda19c5_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2929/33249412370_e9ae4cd5c1_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2822/33249413110_483a6f1811_b.jpg)
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And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?
Notice too that I renamed the teeth (in the '07 book) from Rubine's guide into "directional" names that were consistent with what the first ascent party used.
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What was your drug of choice? It is truly a miracle that you have thus far survived 1,000 Pinns routes.
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almost all those routes were kind of scary. I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much. good views though
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What was your drug of choice? It is truly a miracle that you have thus far survived 1,000 Pinns routes.
And don't forget the ultimate irony of my climbing career: The only time I got well and truly creamed was while climbing on Yosemite Valley granite.
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almost all those routes were kind of scary. I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much. good views though
I didn't know you'd done those. When? Back in the olden days when you routinely soloed lots of Pinns routes? (It's hard to believe that you were even crazier back in the day than you are now.)
J.C. has a stubborn streak (well NOOOOO sh#t). I suspect we'll be hearing about new (as in replacement) bolts and anchors and maybe even new routes up there in the near future....
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I didn't know you'd done those. When? Back in the olden days when you routinely soloed lots of Pinns routes? (It's hard to believe that you were even crazier back in the day than you are now.)
Soon after his asylum escape. Who knows what other history you share :)
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And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?
Notice too that I renamed the teeth (in the '07 book) from Rubine's guide into "directional" names that were consistent with what the first ascent party used.
It is definitely a loose pillar and not a shoulder. Standing on top of it to commit to the face with no pro looks terrifying.
Maybe it looks worse than it is - yeah right.
The note about Incisor confirms that you go to the end of the slot and then around and on to the east face/blunt arete - exactly as I suspected.
The notes about the bolts on the West Tooth leads me to believe that there are two and the bolt I can see with the tat is the anchor, even though it is not quite on the top - it is pretty darn close. That would also make sense based on the way the true top looks. The lead bolt probably can't be seen until you are closer and actually in the notch.
I don't think you would have said halfway up in reference to that bolt with the tat.
Thanks for digging that stuff out and taking the time to post it. Really cool to see the history. :yesnod: :thumbup:
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Soon after his asylum escape. Who knows what other history you share :)
Man, you're in rare form tonight.
I can just see you drinking chocolate milk and making Martha wonder what the hell it is you keep chuckling about at the computer.
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I didn't know you'd done those. When? Back in the olden days when you routinely soloed lots of Pinns routes? (It's hard to believe that you were even crazier back in the day than you are now.)
J.C. has a stubborn streak (well NOOOOO sh#t). I suspect we'll be hearing about new (as in replacement) bolts and anchors and maybe even new routes up there in the near future....
Yeah, I went up there a couple of time solo with the 9. I seem to remember one pinnacle was close to the plateau rock slab area. I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage.
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Thanks for digging that stuff out and taking the time to post it. Really cool to see the history. :yesnod: :thumbup:
I also came across a stack of printed out emails from Jack Holmgren (about 1/4 inch thick!). I only glanced at them though since they weren't what I was looking for.
I skimmed over the one where I essentially beg him to just use the name David Rubine had assigned to one of his routes in the 1995 book (Rubine called it "Prelude"). Jack's email basically says "nope." The name was and is "You Climb That Hill No Matter How Steep But You Still Ain't Goin' Nowhere."
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...I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage.
A rare display. Thank you for living to see another day....
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still wrestle with it, but yeah, probably best I did not go for it.
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To the few of you who pursue these particular routes, I reserve my highest admiration accompanied with a large helping of skepticism as to your sanity.
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I seem to remember one pinnacle was close to the plateau rock slab area. I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage.
I looked at that too. Stick It!
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Hemp Noose. Can you post up a photo of that thing? It's super cool.
Bomber
And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?
I guess you didn't want to discourage anybody.
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almost all those routes were kind of scary. I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much. good views though
For those in the audience that are Bicurious :lol: - this is the loose, outward-tilting pillar on Bicuspid.
It looks pretty good from this angle :yikes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/36414134883_f281a0a909_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtMXDM)
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I hope you aren't planning on any leaps next weekend .
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I hope you aren't planning on any leaps next weekend .
Hiking, climbing, drilling, no leaping :frown2: :nonod: :crazy: :out:
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KC and I headed out today to make the rounds.
We intended to climb False Flatiron, Boom! and Party Crasher.
We hiked up to False Flatiron via the Little Flatiron/Toadstool approach.
I climbed the new class 4 route first, slinging a few knobs along the way.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/37228713425_7c1f2ed0b9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHLTtp)
My wandering eye was checking out the slab to the left of the class 4 route and in particular a prominent hole about 2/3 of the way up. I thought about just climbing to that hole and putting in a bolt, but decided in the end to do a 2 bolt route.
EDIT - the first bolt was removed later (2-9-18) along with the only bolt on Pity the Fool (both routes are now R). We decided the bolts were just too close to the original 4th Class route.
Drilling the first bolt. Check out that hole up and left for the next stance. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/37056584642_157af3ff6e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsyFzL)
The climb starts 3 feet left of the groove used for the class 4 route. Climb to a giant lodestone and the first bolt. A few moves get you into a prominent hole.
Working on the second bolt.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36830688030_f0a5d268ed_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7AUoA)
Climb past the second bolt to the top, courtesy of some nice knobs and divots.
Here is KC at the second bolt, enjoying the coveted 2nd ascent and a salute to clink. :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4390/37228712815_7b25c8dfc9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHLThT)
Falsetto Slab 5.2* :ihih:
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Yosomighty and Clink the wide angle ran up some classic beauties, Portant, Ordeal, Swallow and did the damp and mossy Piton Traverse route for the first time. Those pins are decaying.
Caleb pulled Ali Baba onsight without pumping off or z-clipping at the crux. Sinbad was a first for him as well. Showed up late and left by 3:30. Very unMud&Noallike of us, and quite civilized. We saw Beauty and the Orange Beast in the parking area and received the anticipated and now expected end of the day report Nice bunch of climbers out at Bear Gulch!
:)
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Falsetto Slab 5.2* :ihih:
And there's my silly record, shattered again. ;D ::)
It'll be a while too before I have a chance to catch it up. And no doubt meanwhile other nefarious spies and mudmasters will continue their good work....
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Yosomighty and clink the wide angle ran up some classic beauties, Portent, Ordeal, Swallow and did the damp and mossy Piton Traverse route for the first time. Those pins are decaying.
We saw Beauty and the Orange Beast in the parking area and received the anticipated and now expected end of the day report Nice bunch of climbers out at Bear Gulch!
Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots :lol:
We talked to two lads on the way out and showed them the Regular Route on the Monolith. They were looking for something fun to finish their day. They had evidently been hanging with you guys earlier. They described you perfectly (with a little help from yours truly). :yesnod: :lol:
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And there's my silly record, shattered again. Grin Roll Eyes
Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.
Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots Laugh Out Loud
Yes, and a rack of fresh replacement pins.
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Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.
Yes, and a rack of fresh replacement pins.
It is our pleasure to buck any status quo. Maintaining the status quo would be like climbing at...well...you know where...:lol:
New pitons? That would be nice if you'd like to donate to the cause and place them professionally.
Roper also says you can protect Bicuspid with pitons. I don't see how.
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Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.
I can think of worse ways to spend my time....
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Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots :lol:
I miss my knickers.
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courtesy of waldo
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36390824354_37d60fe3f3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJuf7)
:lol: :lol: :lol:
It's a bit upthread at this point
Brad - I heard you popped in a bolt, made a few moves and Boom! you were done. :lol:
One more of Pow!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36390824184_d523c5564d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJucb)
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for clink
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37056013812_a58d3777d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKTS)
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Thanks, the color needs photo shop though.
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I did an auto contrast - is the lilac better now?
for clink
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37056013812_a58d3777d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKTS)
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Hey guys, the conversation is taking a pretty shitty turn here....
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Hey guys, the conversation is taking a pretty shitty turn here....
Herchel Berchel
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that is a cool route.
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_925a6e4e93_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
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So very cool!
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where
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where
In the Heart of Pinnacles :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Happy Birthday JC! You are petrifying well!
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Happy Birthday
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Happy Birthday!
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Happy Birthday JC! You are petrifying well!
Happy Birthday
Happy Birthday!
Thanks guys. I had a nice night out with Kat - pulled plastic for a bit, had a spicy pizza and a powerful ale at the local eatery followed by a hefty slice of Red Velvet cake from the Buttery here at home. Yum! :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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I'm always joking about Birdbrain Pinnacle and I remember Brad asked me one day not too long ago if I had actually been on top of it. I forgot that I had these pictures from the day I climbed it. Not the best angle since it is hidden behind the platform but valid nonetheless. The second picture shows how exposed it was that day when the res was waaaaaay down.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4365/36830173010_134e46aed1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7yghW)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/37085196421_e42018e068_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv6jSi)
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When the res goes dry it will have to go from the base.
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Fun day out today.
We started the morning with an intense, old school Spasm, Crashed a Party after lunch and ended with a Grand Adventure :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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new rating system
Res -1
Res -2
etc
for how many feet below the bathtub ring the ascent started.
with a W or D modifiers for a wet swim in, vs dry ascent.
For example,
Res -15, W, from the dam side. That would be proud.
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If said route is done, call it Frankly My Deer.
Meanwhile the Easter Bunny has been busy, the cat also left a large mouse on the steps.
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If said route is done, call it Frankly My Deer.
In the spirit of Get Off My Lawn, Silt the F Up. :lol:
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Looks like it may have been a good day to hit the High Peaks today.
Overcast and windy but no rain so far.
It has been raining pretty steadily here on the coast.
We had a nice breakfast with our climbing daughters (Rosie and Alex).
Looks like a lazy day and a good time to post some Crud.
It was busy yesterday with the free admission and holiday weekend.
We talked to some nice hikers and a few climbers :biggrin:
I have never worked so hard to get a climb done at Pinnacles. I estimated 15 times bouldering up and down this thing trying to unlock the sequence. Kat said it might have been closer to 20. It was awkward, balancy and burly all at the same time, on insecure key holds. After my first series of 5 or 6 attempts I rested and Kat took a turn.
Kat changes her shoes to take a crack at Spasm Block. She was soooo close to unlocking the sequence but couldn’t quite conjure up the oooomph or the nerve to pull through. I was very proud of her for trying.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36390231634_5f799dee1a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFs3N)
We kept looking at the holds and talking about it. What a great puzzle.
We are not boulderers.
I honestly did not think I could do it and then it happened.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/36390231204_147a6863bc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFrVo)
We headed back to Junction Rock and I led Party Crasher.
Kat got this weird shot of me testing and moving over to find the sling knobs after I placed 3 pieces of gear in the short section of horizontal. I got in a so so number 2 camalot, a pretty good .75 camalot and a slotted and buried green alien and equalized them. Moving past the sling knobs over the headwall was fun and is definitely the crux. A fall further up before the only bolt would be disastrous but the climbing through that section is easy, albeit filthy. :crazy:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36390348744_6986c8c10d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrG3RW)
Kat decided to lead A Grand Adventure after she followed Party Crasher. She climbed solid and enjoyed the route.
We had a really fun day and the weather was great. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/37055657552_1fc4253b23_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVZs)
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Looks like it may have been a good day to hit the High Peaks today.
Overcast and windy but no rain so far.
It has been raining pretty steadily here on the coast.
Mostly runny.
I showed up at noon and explored while it was dry and as soon as I began climbing up a line it started raining. Been a while getting slicked out. Nice saturated hike back.
We had a nice breakfast with our climbing daughters (Rosie and Alex).
Looks like a lazy day and a good time to post some Crud.
Sweet :)
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I showed up at noon and explored while it was dry and as soon as I began climbing up a line it started raining. Been a while getting slicked out. Nice saturated hike back.
I was chuckling after we talked, thinking about you standing up on those big knobs drilling a bolt in the rain :lol:
The rain gauge started tipping there at 3:30 and only lasted a couple hours, just enough to mess with you but obviously not enough to dampen your spirits :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Crack on Spasm Block
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/36390231434_329fccc9bc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFrZm)
closeup of Crack on Spasm Block
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/37084720171_e79abb88dc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv3Ti6)
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5.7
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:)
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Needs bolts!
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Fighting my way past the trees on Pyramid Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37055656992_6b4a734936_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVPN)
Kat follows Pyramid Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37227835545_7dc8bed24a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHGovx)
rap off Pyramid Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/37055657242_efc654d580_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVU7)
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cool
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Heard on the radio today that some scientists published an article in Nature presenting evidence that neanderthals were in California 130,000 years ago. Of course they didn't bolt any routes back then but it sounds like they had fun smashing up the bones of a mastodon to suck out the marrow and use the splintered remains as pitons :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: .
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This topic doesn't neatly fit into any other threads (and it might not be worth its own). So I'm putting it here.
"They" say that Pinnacles is dangerous because of loose rock. Maybe it is. But at least loose rock at Pinnacles is usually too small to kill.
When I got creamed in 1999 it was because of a "50 or 100 pound block" that came off with me. This was in Yosemite Valley. On granite. The "good" rock. How often do blocks that size come off at Pinns?
Here's the latest from this last weekend at Tahquitz Rock (near Idyllwild in southern California). Tahquitz has great granite and great, great climbs. It's also one of the most historic climbing venues in our country. And I don't mean any criticism either. I'm merely making the point that climbing can be dangerous, rockfall is a well known danger, and Pinnacles rockfall may not be as big a threat to safety as rockfall in other areas. First a link to the Supertopo thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2971876/Tahquitz-Rockfall
Then quotes from some of the eyewitnesses who've posted on that thread (emphasis added and spelling corrected in places):
1. "...I was on Whodunit immediately adjacent to the rock fall incident. A climber was searching around at the top of the third pitch of Consolation for anchor placements when a golf cart/ mini cooper sized block gave way. The climber and a dozen or so rocks of various size fell. No parties were climbing below on Consolation; they surely would have been wiped off the face due to the sheer size of rock fall."
2. "Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung
Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.
But he's in one piece."
3. "Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down...my boyfriend and I had finished Long Climb earlier in the day and were back at the base retrieving our stashed gear before we hiked down. We got our stuff and had just started walking across the base towards the trail. The rest is kind of fuzzy...I thought I heard someone yell 'Rock!" and then suddenly my boyfriend screamed at me to RUN. By random chance, he happened to be watching the climber when he fell, so he immediately knew the severity of what was about to hit us in a few seconds. As I turned to run I glanced up for a split second and saw a lot of movement coming down the face right above us. Within seconds debris started whizzing past me. I dove between two smaller rocks and covered my head. My boyfriend made it behind a large boulder. I could hear the bigger rocks smashing around us."
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Jeremy broke a softball size hold off Pay Dirt this weekend and managed to stick. It missed me by a foot and clattered down the gully. He was incredibly quick at yelling rock.
That rockfall at Tahquitz was killer size. Glad the injuries weren't worse.
The scariest rock pile so far at Pinnacles Imo was the top of the flair Noal did by Meanderthal. It vibrated as you crossed over
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Brad - I can't believe you would desecrate our sacred Quest for Mud thread with a story from the Taco and worse yet about the it word I already banned you for. I'd say it is time for the Pillory or the Rack. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :prrr:
I pulled some humongous stuff off the new routes I did today.
I left one on Bare Bones that needs to be removed but I wanted it in the picture so I could show you where the bolt is.
You can't see the bolt from the ground but you can see the big white knob at the same height that is totally loose.
I had at least a half dozen lodestones big enough to kill or maim that were either just sitting there or disintegrated.
One partially fell apart when I brushed off the top :yikes:
I would have done a third route if it hadn't been so freakin hot.
I just looked it up on the park gauge and it hit 97 today.
It felt hotter.
It is supposed to be in the 60's this weekend so I'll be sure to establish as many new routes as I can :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:
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Brad - I can't believe you would desecrate our sacred Quest for Mud thread with a story from the Taco and worse yet about the it word I already banned you for. I'd say it is time for the Pillory or the Rack. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :prrr:
Not really a desecration. More of an explanation of why Pinns is better than its sometimes reputation.
I pulled some humongous stuff off the new routes I did today.
I left one on Bare Bones that needs to be removed but I wanted it in the picture so I could show you where the bolt is.
You can't see the bolt from the ground but you can see the big white knob at the same height that is totally loose.
I had at least a half dozen lodestones big enough to kill or maim that were either just sitting there or disintegrated.
One partially fell apart when I brushed off the top :yikes:
I would have done a third route if it hadn't been so freakin hot.
I just looked it up on the park gauge and it hit 97 today.
It felt hotter.
It is supposed to be in the 60's this weekend so I'll be sure to establish as many new routes as I can :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:
Pig. But it is nice to know that you're not laying out there somewhere turning into a raisin ;D
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I'd say it is time for the... Rack. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :prrr:
So you agree the time has come for granite cracks?
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A bit more medieval.
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So you agree the time has come for granite cracks?
First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead a 65.
Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.
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First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead e 65.
Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.
I couldn't get enough water yesterday.
I thought at least one of the routes I wanted to do would be in the shade but it was not to be.
By the time I topped out Two Bits I was really feeling it.
I managed to find a decent sized hollow/cubby on the side of the formation next to the one I was working on and that shade was a life saver.
I rested, recharged, drank sparingly and then went back up and drilled an anchor bolt.
Half and Half anchor on Two Bits
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/37212447385_ddc0974bd8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkw9r)
Tromping along the CCC road I was melting fast and when I hit the shade on the descent to the Res the flies were waiting.
The high temps the last few days must have popped every pupa in the place.
It also caused a growth spurt in all the PO.
There are several spots along the Bear Gulch trail where you now have to bob and weave to keep from grazing it with your head or face.
The east side spigot was a welcome relief regardless of the taste.
I talked to a nice German couple while I was recuperating and tried to convince them to buy the guidebook, even though they would only be there for a few days.
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Nice anchor!
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Nice anchor!
I thought you might appreciate that :ihih: :yesnod: :thumbup:
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I nearly melted on Wednesday and today was supposed to be sunny and 60 so we headed back out to The Way Station.
It was cloudy and spitting a tiny bit of drizzle in the parking lot but we figured it would clear up as forecast.
WRONG!
The sun never came out, the wind was crazy and we froze our butts off.
Thank goodness we threw a puffy in for Kat and I wore my hoodie.
My fingers were half numb while I was drilling and at one point I thought the wind was going to blow me off the face.
I looked down and Kat was curled up in a ball trying to stay warm while I drilled.
I got another route done and then Kat led all 3 to make a less than ideal day fun.
We stopped by and said hey to some AAC folks on the way out.
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First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead e 65.
Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.
Nectar - though water has its uses.
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No questing for mud today :nonod: :frown2: :crying: but here are some pics from yesterday.
JC starts up Johnnycake
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37022188276_0bf3b600db_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoJY)
JC drilling bolt 1 on Johnnycake
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/37212444525_10c793b146_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvi8)
Kat in the final stretches while leading the freshly cooked Johnnycake :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/37212446955_7d221547bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkw22)
Kat moving past an excellent sling knob on her way to the only bolt on Bare Bones
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/37022189196_65c48a22a0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ypwp1Q)
Time to make some more herstory. Kat makes the first of several moves to get to the stance for bolt 1 on Two Bits.
The route turned out pretty fun. It may get a star :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/37212446335_d9976d5cf3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvQk)
Kat at the summit of her 100th lead at Pinns (Two Bits). Yes, that is 100 different routes led in good style. Time to start the next 100. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/37022188986_5dacb0a2fc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoXd)
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It was cold yesterday. The sunshine came out at the end of the day but the wind never really died down. No Gavin sighting. We looked for the AAC group but did not find. One hang. Tips are toast.
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It was cold yesterday. The sunshine came out at the end of the day but the wind never really died down. No Gavin sighting. We looked for the AAC group but did not find. One hang. Tips are toast.
Didn't know you guys were there. I always look for Noal's RAV at your spot.
Yep, the sun came out just about the time we got back to the parking lot around 4:30. We could not get warm all day.
The wind at The Way Station was relentless.
I tried to get Kat to do another route with me on the way out but she wasn't buying.
We talked to a bunch from the AAC at Nailbox Crack on the way out and then went to the campsites (25 - 29) and hung out with Harrison and Kristen and a couple young guys. The guys had hiked over the High Peaks and done Old Original and then looped back around via Old Pinnacles. We swapped stories about OO and gave them kudos.
Noal - I heard some people blowing some kind of horns on my way out Wednesday and reminisced about our mystery drummer. Good times dude :biggrin:
I imagine you guys stayed until last light :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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You can see how cloudy it was yesterday in my pics. No blue skies. Total cloud cover. Fade to white.
I checked the park gauge and it only hit 57 yesterday with wind gusts up to 26 mph. The wind was more steady than gusty.
It would blow for several minutes, let up briefly (felt like half a minute) and then the next wave would come. It went on like that all day.
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we got back and it was dusk, so it was just in time to turn the headlights on for the drive out. Not quite a full day but close.
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Not quite a full day but close.
:madman:
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Brad, I think the 'loose' fear is all about that a hold that you are on could fail causing a fall, not so much that the same hold would wipe out the village below. In that regard, though, Pinnacles exceeds expectations. It's one of the few times I've fallen 'honestly' i.e. where I didn't know I was going to fall in advance of the hold breaking and sending me off. You belayed me on that trip up Adam's Apple as I recall.
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...you belayed me on that trip up Adam's Apple as I recall.
Maybe I belayed you up, down and up on that trip? ::)
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Go Kat! Congratulations!
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Noal - I heard some people blowing some kind of horns on my way out Wednesday and reminisced about our mystery drummer. Good times dude
You know, unfortunately I have heard the horn player. You are spot on with the drum connection the two know each other and some times "play music" together. No joking.
I think I experienced the horrible duet either when we working on Voyeur or summit experience. Did you tell them to STFU?
A few weekends ago saw some a-holes flying a big old drone in the high peaks in the afternoon when all the condors were out. We told them to knock it if off (and no it was not the mythical, highly anticipated, Starbucks drone delivering us lattes and paninis)
People these days......Sheesh.
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People these days......Sheesh.
I know, why can't they simply enjoy the natural sounds of Pinnacles, the wind rustling the chaparral, birds of prey screeching, frogs croaking, crickets chirping, snakes rattling, woodpeckers and climbers drilling.
I have almost gagged on perfume of late passing hikers on the trails. We observed waders and swimmers a couple weeks ago in the reservoir. Someone commented that the sign needs to be bigger and I suggested that a warning of "May contain the really bad strain of genital eating microbes", as a deterrent.
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I think I experienced the horrible duet
I have almost gagged on perfume of late passing hikers on the trails.
I feel your pain.
There were some maroons blasting bubble gum barf on their iphone when we were in Juniper Canyon.
It sounds like we all need to be deputized and given blank citation books.
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Drones are illegal without a permit, last news I saw from the NPS.
Brad, yep. :)
JC, calm yourself. It's going to be ok. ;) You just need to get further out, like in the mountains. ;)
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...JC, calm yourself. It's going to be ok. ;) You just need to get further out, like in the mountains. ;)
Munge, maybe consider teasing the next rattlesnake you see with a short stick.
That might be a little less likely to get a reaction than baiting the (as in "the," not "a") dyed-in-the-wool Pinnacles fanatic ;D :P
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It's subliminal. Pretty soon he'll be carpooling with me to the Valley.
We'll start with Sunnyside Bench and work our way up...
http://www.supertopo.com/routebeta/yosemite.html
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3304/3520017332_7fc4fb6f37_b.jpg)
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It's subliminal. Pretty soon he'll be carpooling with me to the Valley.
We'll start with Sunnyside Bench and work our way up...
http://www.supertopo.com/routebeta/yosemite.html
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3304/3520017332_7fc4fb6f37_b.jpg)
Not to speak for our favorite, wonderful, gregarious, fun-loving, adventurous, large-forheaded Pinnacles fanatic, but Fat Chance, Slim Chance and No Chance (the Chance brothers). Nice try though :P >:D ;D
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^^^^
BTW, that's a great photo of Snake Dike. What a route!
Too bad it DOESN'T BELONG on a Pinnacles climbing thread (just warming you up for the the lambasting you deserve and will get for posting that photo in this discussion).
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Hey, Munge
great pic, keep up the good work
; )
Mud
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I am determined to make it up some nonpinnacle classics with JC. Of course they will have the status of Pinnacles training exercises.
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I am determined to make it up some nonpinnacle classics with JC. Of course they will have the status of Pinnacles training exercises.
Maybe start by infusing his morning eggs with Valium? Then, as long as you're driving... (well you get the picture).
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Pinnacles Training!!!
Ya gotta have vision man!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2884/11924704463_2710f2b40b_c.jpg)
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A little more finger coordination and that pic would be Vulcan.
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Snake Dike is a fun one for sure.
Lot's of good and not so good memories with that route.
But that's another thread.
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(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b571/nelkins182/IMG_1460-1_zpsfkj8cclh.jpg)
It's It.
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What's wrong with this picture?
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Absolutely nothing at all. I see that stuff on the way to and from the pinns all the time.
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Absolutely nothing at all. I see that stuff on the way to and from the pinns all the time.
Hardly likely. How can you see stuff like that when it's never light out as you travel (there or back) ;D :D
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One can see strange visions in the dark......
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Hijackistan :)
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One can see strange visions in the dark......
I suppose the Rasputin and Merlin team can do that in broad daylight.
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Neva again!
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The Quest for Mud season has unofficially begun. Bring your jacket.
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The Quest for Mud season has unofficially begun. Bring your jacket.
Only for the next few days.
No need after Wednesday.
Time for flies, ice water and shade :lol:
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Meanwhile I've got two fingers that are now missing big, painful flaps of skin and the back of an arm with a bunch of deep scrapes (even though I was wearing a rugby shirt).
Gosh, it must be granite cracks season ;)
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Gosh, it must be granite cracks season Wink
JC, we may need 2x3,4, 1x5,6, a selection of pins and the company of one Rasputin(Noal) to slay the non-European, New World Dragon.
Happy Mothers Day to all you mothering ladies!
mothering
noun
the process of caring for children as their mother or of caring for people in the way that a mother does:
He did not receive good mothering as a child.
a woman's mothering instinct
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^^^
Hey, I qualify as a Pinnacles fanatic. And I get to post occasionally about what's going on in the non-Pinnacles world. You should be supportive and happy for me. And worried about the amount of blood I've lost.
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One can see strange visions in the dark......
It needs to be dark?
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Hey, I qualify as a Pinnacles fanatic.
Brad, you are The Pinnacles fanatic. As far as blood lost on granite, I am only going to be concerned if your loss is measured in pints. If I lived where you do I probably wouldn't get to Pinns more than twice a year. As it is Pinnacles is constantly enticing me with it's mystery, which you have lost yourself in for much of your life, over the years.
I am looking forward to this summer's exploring with JC and KC. Still amazed at the quality of rock discoveries at the Old Man and Crud and Mud over the last 17 months.
:)
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JC, we may need 2x3,4, 1x5,6, a selection of pins and the company of one Rasputin(Noal) to slay the non-European, New World Dragon.
Happy Mothers Day to all you mothering ladies!
A few slings and arrows should be able to conquer The Monster.
Happy Mudders Day.
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A few slings and arrows should be able to conquer The Monster.
Happy Mudders Day.
Signed,
THE Other Fanatic
There I fixed it for you ;D
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No Merlin, for you it doesn't need to be dark.
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I'm suffering slings and arrows since we missed a perfect day but we did a good thing today with beano :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Jesse scopes out the final moves on Tuff Chix
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/37212445745_898322d530_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvEa)
Moving into the void on some thin slab yesterday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37022187896_13f4036f6a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoCq)
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Orange you glad you can down climb?
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Orange you glad you can down climb?
Still wondering how the heck I did that :yesnod: :yikes: :biggrin:
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clink and KC share Tick Talk :lol: :yikes: :yesnod: :crazy: :eeeek:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/37212445455_ee8372e1ec_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvza)
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The Quest continues...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37022188516_fa86b811e5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoP7)
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On the way out we saw a cool snake, it disappeared into a slot in the rocks before a pic could be taken.
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The lower you get, the bigger and better they look :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/37212444335_c88d047c17_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkveR)
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Big butts
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Big butts
Baby's got BAC
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Big butts
Let's go git some clinker :thumbup: :biggrin:
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So what is BAC? Blood Alcohol Content is the search result. Big Ass Crud?
The pinnacle on the left has ED. That was the one you called interesting.
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So what is BAC? Blood Alcohol Content is the search result. Big Ass Crud?
The pinnacle on the left has ED. That was the one you called interesting.
Bay Area Climber :lol: :puke:
unlike BAP which goes back to Brad's roots :yesnod: :lol:
The pinnacle on the left has ED. That was the one you called interesting.
Flaccid Finger :lol:
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Flaccid Finger :lol:
Low T Pinnacle :lol:
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Top Knot Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37212757125_8f93d76751_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGn7dM)
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Top Knot Pinnacle
I showed your post to Jim and Wendy. All three of us agree - you nailed it.
You shoulda' been around two thousand years ago when they were naming the constellations. You've got a real knack.
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You shoulda' been around two thousand years ago when they were naming the constellations.
How do you know I wasn't? Recycling makes sense :lol: :crazy:
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How do you know I wasn't? Recycling makes sense :lol: :crazy:
Let's see, 2,000 years ago, initials J.C., and recycling does make sense. Could have been you....
Well if it was you figuring out what patterns of stars looked like, you've carried your skills into the present age to be applied to rocks.
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Mike asked if I would mind if he sent a guy named Andrew, who was visiting the gym yesterday, over to climb with us. I mentioned something about being social to Geoff. He responded "I'm the socialest there is".
Andrew ended up climbing with others.
Josh was dropped off the gym by his Mom and Martha. He was very excited about climbing being in the Olympics, and SNL's impersonation of Spicer. Martha had no idea that I was at the gym. It was a (Brad)business meeting, since we talked for a couple minutes about work and exchanged a check for me and pay for one of Geoff's sons.
Who is going to be the Rock(Plastic) Climbing sports announcer at the Olympics? Geoff did an excellent play by play of Andrew climbing higher than we did on a well set route. Geoff was sure Andrew was going to fall off sooner than he did, pretty damn funny.
Seabright Brewery is hard to beat, for extending the business meeting. This is how we fill in some of the days between Mud research outings.
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...it was a (Brad) business meeting...
Well I'll be. Old dogs can learn new tricks.
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Seabright Brewery is hard to beat, for extending the business meeting.
I'm always good at extending business in this manner.
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Thick as a Tick
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37212757035_43f426dde7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGn7ce)
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Thick as a Tick
All talk from that viewpoint.
Did you notice the grass was chest high in places.
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In the clear white circles of morning wonder,
I take my place with the lord of the hills...
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In the clear white circles of morning wonder,
I take my place with the lord of the hills...
So you do wax...
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The C's were top notch on Top Knot. Great lead KC.
We shelled out some egg hunting in the Monsters lair .
Nice to run into Gavin.
JC rocked out 2 serious stance placements while uncorking the bottle. The arraignment of the the previous 2 days is that he does most of the work(7 bolts to 1) and while I expound on the possibility of his future employment opportunity as becoming a gargoyle model. :)
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The C's were top notch on Top Knot. Great lead KC.
We shelled out some egg hunting in the Monsters lair .
Nice to run into Gavin.
JC rocked out 2 serious stance placements while uncorking the bottle.
Top Knot was cool dude and Uncorked ain't bad either.
Can't wait to get back to Monster and the Tick's Underbelly :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
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On the whole, gargoyles seem to have small foreheads bro. This statue has a larger one than most.
Le Stryge, Notre Dame, early 1900s
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Uncle Sam, Buddha, God, and Plato are more in the running. That Lawrence of McEnroe look you were sporting may be catchy.
8)
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Uncle Sam, Buddha, God, and Plato are more in the running. That Lawrence of McEnroe look you were sporting may be catchy.
8)
It's Lawrence of Wimbledon to you :lol:
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Top Knot
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36375050744_3d17b07e1e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDij)
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^^^
That is a very interesting photo and a cool formation. Looks like fun.
I have two groups of questions:
1. Is the LOLR up and right (below you), and then around to the summit? Is that how you climbed?
2. Am I seeing horizontal ropes across the gap between the summit and the rocks to the left? Did you guys set up a tyrollean traverse to get off??
And I'll take my answers offline if online would give away too many secrets for now ;D ;)
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^^^
That is a very interesting photo and a cool formation. Looks like fun.
I have two groups of questions:
1. Is the LOLR up and right (below you), and then around to the summit? Is that how you climbed?
2. Am I seeing horizontal ropes across the gap between the summit and the rocks to the left? Did you guys set up a tyrollean traverse to get off??
And I'll take my answers offline if online would give away too many secrets for now ;D ;)
Nope.
It is like a smaller version of Bicuspid without the unprotected rotten start.
A small crumbly pillar (to my right in the pic) which can't be seen in this picture allows you to gain the main pinnacle.
I placed a bolt on that middle summit for a directional while you climb down to the slot and gain the smaller crumbly pillar.
Pretty cool climb - a mini mountaineering adventure.
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JC spotted a line that worked out on a pinnacle we have dubbed the monster, not that it resembles him sporting a goatee in any way.
At one point JC was around a corner and as I continued to feed out rope I inquired "How are things going?". He yelled back "I'm committed" and probably should be for his mossy run-out to the top.
The climb surprisingly went at 5.7ish 2bolts 75 ft corkscrew. Cool summit! Dude, that was a great day and climb.
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JC spotted a line that worked out on a pinnacle we have dubbed the monster, not that it resembles him sporting a goatee in any way.
At one point JC was around a corner and as I continued to feed out rope I inquired "How are things going?". He yelled back "I'm committed" and probably should be for his mossy run-out to the top.
The climb went at 5.7ish 2bolts 75 ft corkscrew. Cool summit! Dude, that was a great day and climb.
That was an awesome day and I am going with Behemoth for a name.
I will include in the description for the upper slab - climb up to a perfect stance on a decent size lodestone and wonder why there is not a bolt. This one will be left for all the naysayers. :lol: :devildevil: :eeeek:
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Top Knot
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36375050744_3d17b07e1e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDij)
Here are some more pics of Top Knot - dueling JC's
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36375049954_b1d1cb1c60_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkD4G)
and to solve the mystery that Brad inquired about...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/37069712571_9a292dd94e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YtHY4n)
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Here's a couple shots of Uncorked.
Drilling on a tippy toe stance
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/36375050244_f5ab06769a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkD9G)
Working on the upper section.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36375050464_7abcd34888_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDdu)
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Thought I would let the suspense build.
Here are a few of clink's shots of me on Behemoth
In the Funky flare
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/36397087833_1506cd4393_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XshAa8)
After the Furry slab
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36397087463_61bcfcd600_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XshA3K)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/37021359586_7169df7dd2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yps9pd)
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I like the wide shot.
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5.7
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5.7
Zactly :smilewinkgrin:
5.7R* (the Furry slab is 5.5R) :thumbup: :lol:
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Here is a zoom of the Furry slab. Look close and you can see the sling knob I used. The rope passes it on the right.
I could barely reach it on my tip toes. I thought that it might be a starting hand hold but I actually moved down and right to get started, making the sling knob waaaaay less meaningful. The best holds and LOLR were right up the furriest part along the right-hand side of the slab) I might have placed a bolt from that other noticeable knob (big but not slingable) but once I was standing on it the climbing was getting easier, it was really hot and I was smelling the summit.
clink took this after I had the first anchor bolt in.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37021359696_7e2a9b0689_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yps9r7)
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Today was supposed to be a rest day for the forum.
Lurkers say hi :)
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Burp!
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Today was supposed to be a rest day for the forum.
Lurkers say hi :)
Who made that rule? :puke:
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Who made that rule? Puke
And it was good.
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I thought there was a seasonal closure of the forum, much like the Passes in the Sierra. :)
posting by mud saying "DIE" in 3...2...1...
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Saw and talked to Belizzi in the parking lot today :biggrin:
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Went back out today with my buddy Dave from L.A. and Kat and we just did fun stuff.
Dave and I went out yesterday and had fun. It was only his second time climbing ever.
Kat chalked up another 8 today on Chockstone - nice :yesnod: :thumbup:
Explain this to me.
I hike over hell and half and acre every weekend with clink for the last few months - mostly off trail.
Today after sticking to trails and climbing relatively heavily trafficked stuff I find a tick embedded in my ankle, blood on my sock and a nice red circle where the little bastard was feeding - wtf?
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It was a Missionary gym tick, that hitched a ride to Pinns on a chalk bag, to spread the "good news" and the benefits of fasting, meditating, yoga, and communal urban living. Unfortunately, upon smelling the blood of a true adventurer it forsook it's vision to convert the masses, and chomped onto your ankle. Poor little heretic.
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My theory is the marauder crawled into my hiking boot while it was unattended (while I was climbing). When I put my boot back on, it latched on and engorged itself and one of two things happened. Either it felt poisoned and vomited the meal back into me or my leg moving around in the boot popped it while it was full.
I never felt a thing. All I saw when we got home was a crusted spot of blood on my skin with a surrounding circle of redness. It wasn't until I scraped off the blob of dried blood that we realized there was indeed a buggy vampire in the coagulated quagmire.
On a more positive note, Dave had a club membership that allowed us all to enjoy a complete tasting of the fare at Chalone Winery. We sat and enjoyed the vino and the view from their balcony and then bought a nice selection - and of course - Kat joined the Pinnacles Club. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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I already thought she was a club member. :)
If you develop a rash or fever within several weeks of removing the tick, see your doctor. Be sure to tell the doctor about the bite, date occurred, and where.
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It wouldn't hurt to get a photo of the rash now to compare with later if needed
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Dave gettin' his high step on :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36374660504_8a097457b0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqiDi3)
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It was 76 when we hit the gate at 7:30 this morn and 107 when we drove away - Did Old Original with Kat and Julia today.
It was the last day Julia could climb before she moves to Australia for graduate work.
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It was 76 when we hit the gate at 7:30 this morn and 107 when we drove away - Did Old Original with Kat and Julia today.
It was the last day Julia could climb before she moves to Australia for graduate work.
It is that time of year :puke:
Tabular Listing: June 18, 2017 - 16:00 through June 19, 2017 - 16:00 PDT
Time(PDT) Temp Relative Wind Wind
Humidity Speed Gust
° F % mph mph
15:37 109.0 18 7 14
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It is that time of year :puke:
Tabular Listing: June 18, 2017 - 16:00 through June 19, 2017 - 16:00 PDT
Time(PDT) Temp Relative Wind Wind
Humidity Speed Gust
° F % mph mph
15:37 109.0 18 7 14 W
Dude, let's skip the gobbledygook. Here's the takeaway:
IT'S 109 DEGREES AT PINNACLES RIGHT NOW! ONLY NUTS WOULD GO THERE!
There, that was easy ;)
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Dude, let's skip the gobbledygook. Here's the takeaway:
IT'S 109 DEGREES AT PINNACLES RIGHT NOW! ONLY NUTS WOULD GO THERE!
Sometimes you feel like a nut.
Sometimes you don't.
After we establish Pass the Doobie Scoobie we'll have to do Almond Joy and Mounds
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Always surprises me that they don't shut the gate to Death Valley with these types of temps.
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Hi
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Hi
clink - I am keeping track of your keystrokes and I have a pull up bar in the garage. :lol:
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O
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I quip.
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My theory is the marauder crawled into my hiking boot while it was unattended (while I was climbing). When I put my boot back on, it latched on and engorged itself and one of two things happened. Either it felt poisoned and vomited the meal back into me or my leg moving around in the boot popped it while it was full.
I never felt a thing. All I saw when we got home was a crusted spot of blood on my skin with a surrounding circle of redness. It wasn't until I scraped off the blob of dried blood that we realized there was indeed a buggy vampire in the coagulated quagmire.
On a more positive note, Dave had a club membership that allowed us all to enjoy a complete tasting of the fare at Chalone Winery. We sat and enjoyed the vino and the view from their balcony and then bought a nice selection - and of course - Kat joined the Pinnacles Club. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
How is the bite?
https://www.hopkinsrheumatology.org/specialty-clinics/lyme-disease-clinical-research-center/what-to-do-after-a-tick-bite/
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I quip.
quipping or kipping?
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How is the bite?
https://www.hopkinsrheumatology.org/specialty-clinics/lyme-disease-clinical-research-center/what-to-do-after-a-tick-bite/
Seems to be fine. Thanks for asking.
Still just looks like a mosquito bite. There has been no itch, no soreness, no increase in redness or enlargement of the small, slightly red spot (half an inch in diameter). No unusual physical symptoms.
It got a bit redder Sunday but that was likely a result of being out in the intense heat.
Probably lucky I didn't spontaneously combust :lol:
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quipping or kipping?
I don't think there is much chance of him doing a kip-up.
His failed landing might register on local seismographs :lol:
Tricia might be able to teach us something about doing crazy, bendy launches :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Probably lucky I didn't spontaneously combust :lol:
You joke, but I just bought a fire extinguisher for the next time I climb with you at Pinns.
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You joke, but I just bought a fire extinguisher for the next time I climb with you at Pinns.
It's nice and cool here - 73 in the house with the windows open - benefits of coastal living :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :smilewinkgrin:
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You joke, but I just bought a fire extinguisher for the next time I climb with you at Pinns.
So hot.
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http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2017/06/tick-bite-meat-allergy-spreading-spd/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social&utm_content=link_fb20170621news-tickmeat&utm_campaign=Content
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Yup, it's warm, thank god for AC.
Pinns in the evening would be quite nice.
Mungie??
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A/C is having a tough time keeping up.
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Yup, it's warm, thank god for AC.
Pinns in the evening would be quite nice.
Mungie??
How many people on here have lived back east (besides Noal) where it doesn't cool down at night?
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http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2017/06/tick-bite-meat-allergy-spreading-spd/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social&utm_content=link_fb20170621news-tickmeat&utm_campaign=Content
I had a double double on the way home before I knew about the blood feast.
Had another one this past weekend :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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and avoid high grass
So stay away from the bong. Bad medicine.
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So stay away from the bong. Bad medicine.
Bongloadash
Murky Bongwater
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Tripdig
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Tripdig
Crash Buds
Contraband Crack
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Kat and I were on the west side yesterday after a 2 month hiatus from climbing and Pinnacles.
Did some exploring and found one interesting face but I wasn't in the mood to drill in the sun.
We looked at several other possibilities and climbed a little just to get some movement.
Saw a rattler on the trail between the bridge at Destiny cutoff and Bouldering Rock after talking to a variety of folks and Dan Gearhardt (sp?). It was stretched out and lazing apparently after a meal. There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length. Temp was only 93 back at the lot. Looking forward to rejoining clink next weekend.
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There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length
Same here.
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Kat and I were on the west side yesterday after a 2 month hiatus from climbing and Pinnacles.
Did some exploring and found one interesting face but I wasn't in the mood to drill in the sun.
We looked at several other possibilities and climbed a little just to get some movement.
Saw a rattler on the trail between the bridge at Destiny cutoff and Bouldering Rock after talking to a variety of folks and Dan Gearhardt (sp?). It was stretched out and lazing apparently after a meal. There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length. Temp was only 93 back at the lot. Looking forward to rejoining clink next weekend.
Really glad you got back out. It's seems like about the right time.
Oh, and "exploring" is overrated and not necessary at Pinnacles. No need to bother (although that might change come November).
BTW, I got the PCAD email and thought it was very well done (tried to reply on that thread, but it's a "no reply" thread). Thanks to all of you for putting in the hard work (again).
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BTW, I got the PCAD email and thought it was very well done (tried to reply on that thread, but it's a "no reply" thread). Thanks to all of you for putting in the hard work (again).
Sorry - the thread is locked because I don't want to answer questions on there - I added a couple pics and my email address if anyone has any questions. Last year I unlocked the thread AFTER the event. I'll do the same this year.
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JC got high on 420 today.
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JC got high on 420 today.
Thank God.
Now I can quit climbing.
Pass the doobie Scoobie :lol: :out: :prrr: :crazy: :arf:
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KC and I had a fun day with clink yesterday.
The park's temp gauge said it was a high of 88 but it felt very pleasant all day.
There were nice breezes and a few gusts that just about blew clink and me off our respective stances.
It was good to drill bolts again.
KC is still claiming she doesn't have her Pinns head back yet.
Weather looks good for next weekend but we will not be able to get out for the next couple weekends.
We'll have to get back out and finalize a couple things on the routes we did yesterday before the big event weekend.
We still need to put in an anchor, add some chains to both anchors and torque all the bolts.
clink tuffs out a difficult stance to set me up. He seems to enjoy setting these traps :yesnod: :devildevil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/37096635116_208ed14f41_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yw6Xcb)
Agent Orange stopping to get in another bolt on the lip. It took some concentrated effort to resist just running it out. :crazy:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/36449928294_cb56e3c024_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwXpMy)
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I was just about to send you a note enquiring whether or not you folks would be out and about! I have a free Saturday for a change.
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I was just about to send you a note enquiring whether or not you folks would be out and about! I have a free Saturday for a change.
Right on brother - we'll get back on the crud soon - thanks for breaking the stalemate :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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We'll have to get back out and finalize a couple things on the routes we did yesterday before the big event weekend.
We still need to put in an anchor, add some chains to both anchors and torque all the bolts.
Got it all done today including drilling a fatty for one of the anchor bolts on It's 4:20 Dude
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Got it all done today including drilling a fatty for one of the anchor bolts on It's 4:20 Dude
Got this classic shot of Birdbrain Pinnacle on the way out. I almost started a new thread :lol: :yesnod: :rolleyes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/23746920928_34e666aa7c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cbrbgb)
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Clink and I finished See Ya Crater Alligator yesterday on a perfect Pinnacles day. The high was only 76 and there was a nice breeze. The route turned out to be more challenging than we anticipated. It is a mini adventure with some tricky moves and fairly intricate route finding.
Starting up last Sunday with some cool shadowing. I am standing on the first big, perched lodestone (see route description).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4509/37676863131_cd27fc3702_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLLt)
Now the question becomes why would I not drill from that huge stance and instead move up to this calf pumper with a lean in on the elbow? I guess because I had a good knob slung out left and just felt like getting the bolt higher.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/37676862911_191aa8e547_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLGF)
This shot gives a better perspective and the staggered stance I shifted to
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/37005666783_dc47b59ef1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4HtD)
Here is the stance for bolt 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/37676861891_3cbaedd60c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLp6)
And the same stance from a different perspective
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/37676862421_9d4e7a63d5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLye)
Clink went up next and continued the shenanigans by climbing way past a perfectly good stance up the headwall and onto the big slanting ledge above. He claims he did it to keep the flavor of the route :yesnod: :thumbup: :smilewinkgrin: :devildevil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37676861501_6cba66c7ce_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLhn)
After placing the 3rd bolt, clink committed to the bulge and got another bolt in from a tough stance in the heat. That would be it for the day since we had to leave a bit early for a PCAD meeting.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37005665553_e5ea6f4ab0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4H7r)
Clink was kind enough to let me top out the route yesterday. My feet were probably 10 or 12 feet above his last bolt when it felt like the climb was over and I started looking for a good place to drill an anchor. Here is one last shot looking down from the anchor as clink followed. The sling knob is only for show. A few feet of scrambling leads up to a nice ledge where the walkoff starts.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/37005666213_7d4a0b909f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4HiP)
Here is a preliminary description. Posted here mainly because this is such a popular crag. People climbing Passion Play probably will not notice the first bolt unless they are looking very closely and the second bolt cannot be seen from below.
See Ya Crater Alligator 5.6R
Note: This climb traverses/wraps around the right side of Passion Play Wall and wanders
a bit to take advantage of the natural lines and the good holds. It is not for novices.
Start at the base of Passion Play but move immediately up and right toward a basketball-
sized, perched lodestone. The perched lodestone and/or another good knob slightly left
can be slung to protect the moves to the first bolt if desired. From the first bolt, continue
traversing diagonally up and right and then along the base of an alcove underneath a
beach ball sized, hanging, fractured lodestone (the time bomb). The “time bomb” was not
utilized in any way to climb this route. Past the “time bomb” a step up at the far right side
of the alcove reveals the 2nd bolt. Move around a blunt arete to the right and up into an
obvious scoop. From the scoop, move right and up into another smaller scoop. From that
scoop, make committing moves up a short headwall to an upwardly slanting ledge/ramp
(slants up and left) - at the base of an undercut bulge. One bolt allows moves onto the
bulge but will not keep you off the ledge (do not fall). A fourth bolt protects the final
section of the climb to a two bolt anchor - 101 feet from the start. Walk off left (3rd class).
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 10-12-17
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looks covered in questionable moss and time bombs! whew
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looks covered in questionable moss and time bombs! whew
I think you would like it mungie. It actually has some decent rock and some fun puzzle-solving. It may clean up some if people climb it or it may never clean up and just stay an adventure. The time bomb was just too big to mess with and is easy enough to avoid. :ihih: :out: :crazy: :yikes:
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Munge and Mud would solo it if the route gets a bit cleaner.
Thanks for posting the info JC. Fun route and beauty day for climbing!
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It'll clean up.
I suspect it'll make a nice addition to the two routes already there.
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It'll clean up.
I suspect it'll make a nice addition to the two routes already there.
It's fun but not for everyone. I think you will appreciate it and thanks for the atta boy :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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It's fun but not for everyone....
Kinda describes Pinnacles as a whole now doesn't it? ;)
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Kinda describes Pinnacles as a whole now doesn't it? ;)
touché
Here is one more of clink committed to the headwall. Look carefully and you can see the last bolt way down and left.
He still has several thoughtful moves to gain the next stance up on that slanting ledge. More flavor to savor. :ihih: :yesnod: :yikes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/37694494341_56dc860420_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZqW8UR)
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We already talked about this last year but that is a long time - especially for those of us a bit long in the tooth.
It's the weekend of 4-20 Dude :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih: :crazy:
Pretty much. The question is who of the posters here, will be there?
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It rained a bit.
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It rained a bit.
You okay buddy? Getting enough sleep? :frown2: :frown: :frown: :nonod: :yawn:
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Yep. Crud this coming weekend.
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The Walking Mud became a reality this weekend. It is a totally separate climb from Mud Diamond and allows you to access the highest point on Crud and Mud. Too bad the terrain isn't steeper because the rock is nice.
The Walking Mud - 4th Class
For experienced Mudders, this climb will probably feel like a walk in the park. For the inexperienced, it may be a horror show. The route follows an obvious line left of a rounded arête. From the Mud Diamond anchor, climb up and veer left into the mossy water chute. There is one bolt about 15 feet out from the anchor that cannot be seen. From the bolt, a series of small scoops leads straight up and over a lip (25 feet). Large knobs can be slung if desired. Once above the lip, the angle eases considerably. Continue another 75 feet up a very low angle slab to the true summit of Crud and Mud (115 feet from the start). There is no summit anchor for this route but there is excellent body position. To descend, make a short downclimb off the summit block to the East Side 5.2 R anchor. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: October 22, 2017
Of course you can also Fear the Walking Mud and rappel from the Mud Diamond anchor :lol:
P.S. Remember - zombies can't climb :nono: :out: :prrr:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/26156417059_2dbb61f49a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FRmtvV)
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I think that has been solo'd a few times already.
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I think that has been solo'd a few times already.
Yer so funny :lol: - not unless they soloed Mud Diamond :ihih: :arf:
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Kermit Kersplat
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Crust Station
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Crust Station
Human Ashtray :lol:
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Cannibal Lipstick
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:)
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:)
It appears we were both working around peckers yesterday. Mine was significantly larger :lol:
Things that make you go hmmmm... :crazy:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/38048404621_f177945808_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZYd27e)
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Great pic.
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Finding a few good holds on a FA at Pinns is like Christmas!
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This one is for you clinker.
Thanks for another great day of adventure on the mud.
It pays to play hooky with the Cookie
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38222546756_a8a9bd4029_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21eAxuQ)
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Thanks
Yes
Let's do that again
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Here is the companion shot.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38296414461_2c5b2158bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21m88MX)
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Had fun yesterday finishing a route with Brad that he started on Sunday with Jennifer Wang.
While drilling what would be the last lead bolt, Brad realized the top was close but also realized he had not redpointed the route. I told him to come down and I would be happy to redpoint and drill the first anchor bolt. For some strange reason he declined.
The route will not be called Kind Offering or Charitable Monday :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4569/37703999764_480b546c99_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZrLRxs)
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These things happen. Hang in there JC, one day you'll be able to do an FA too! ;) :)
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While drilling what would be the last lead bolt, Brad realized the top was close but also realized he had not redpointed the route. I told him to come down and I would be happy to redpoint and drill the first anchor bolt. For some strange reason he declined.
The route will not be called Kind Offering or Charitable Monday :lol:
Chance brothers....
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Jump
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Where the Wild Things are...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/26653862159_f4846b7e4c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GBj1Bz)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38430242791_5e5592d612_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21xX3hX)
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Nice!
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Where the Wild Things are...
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I bailed on meeting up with the Cooks. What you do?
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Kat and I climbed with Gavin on Saturday and reached the Throne of Pinnacles after some hair-raising activity yesterday. :yikes: :thumbup:
Climbing Camouflage Corner with Gavin
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/37829441774_5ab5a4c282_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRM5J)
BAP Trap
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/37829442244_0a13e39c62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRMdQ)
Gavin leading Pickpocket
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/38545389601_0a13e39c62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21J8cqM)
The Long and the Short of It – a cool climb with lots of interesting moves. When it gets as clean as the rest of the routes at Tourist Trap it will be a two-star climb – hopefully it will clean up quickly :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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I'm not sure what it is but I love this picture.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/38545804601_032e12783c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21JajMX)
Taking a break on The Throne :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
The more I look at it maybe The Recliner is more appropriate :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/26770041049_c2a8452647_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMzsxT)
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I climbed "See Ya Crater Alligator" (5.6 R) today. It was a nice climb. I agree that it is not for novices.
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Glad you got on it. Not as scary as some of the FAs you put up earlier this year. :)
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I climbed "See Ya Crater Alligator" (5.6 R) today. It was a nice climb. I agree that it is not for novices.
Glad you liked it. We had a lot of fun putting it up.
Just curious - Did you lead it with a belayer, rope solo or free solo?
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I did it rope solo. The route seemed very logical to use many different features. I also did all of the routes on The Invisible Cliff on Sunday. I particularly liked the center one that goes over the bulge.
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Nice. That is what I figured.
I got to do a coveted 2nd ascent elsewhere on Sunday - :thumbup: :biggrin:
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I got to do a coveted 2nd ascent elsewhere on Sunday - Thumb Up Dude Big Grin
Thread desecration. :nono:
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Thread desecration. :nono:
Notice I didn't say where or on what and where everyone else climbed on solid stuff, I checked out the chossy path less taken :eek: :rolleyes: :biggrin:
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The "chossy path less taken" sounds like a lot of territory in the Pinnacles!
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highly coveted 2nd ascent
there ya go, fixed it for ya. ;)
It's like they're giving away 2nd ascents for free out there in the wild west! ;)
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Munge, you mean the wild east.
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Mini adventure yesterday.
Started with me dislodging this rock on the approach and narrowly missing Jason - I barely touched it - shades of Tabooboo?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4682/39052756201_02835baee8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22uXzQM)
The destination climb - Dwarf Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/27275422169_28273e95dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyeEKt)
View from above the route - the sling knobs were a joke and the overall rock quality was not good - it is however exposed, historic (am I on the wrong thread?) and a cool summit
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/27275422319_d97e64416d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyeEN4)
The replacement anchor chains, smash links and bolts all look brand new even though they are 14 years old.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/38171474965_213fd6bb15_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21a5MCH)
Jason raps
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4686/39052756431_4b8c45f7cb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22uXzUK)
We climbed Possibility Pinnacle on the way back. I took Jason to Photographer's Delight next so he could get a classic lead in. We saw two condors on the rocks below Long's Folly. While we were watching a third one flew right overhead and landed next to the other two. Jason led the Cone on the way down.
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^^^
Well, well, well. Nice that you finally get to tick that one off your list.
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I evidamndently drew the short straw for both my stances yesterday.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4646/27367587379_2e3789f2a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HGo3fP)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4587/39145888741_bd4a533384_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22DbUUe)
One should not be able to rest this easily - much less smile on stance!
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lol, nice pics!
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The slacker in the yellow puffy answered his phone on stance while halfway through with the drilling. He also bled like a stuck pig from a short brush encounter. Brad did talk him into drilling into a big loadstone. :)
JC, you are doing such a fine job that I have decided to let you drill bolt #4. >:D
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The slacker in the yellow puffy answered his phone on stance while halfway through with the drilling.
Seemingly unbelievable, but true!
Brad did talk him into drilling into a big loadstone. :)
After two holes I started nearby in seemingly good rock both failed.
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JC, you are doing such a fine job that I have decided to let you drill bolt #4. >:D
Since I have already done two-thirds of the work I will just go ahead and finish it. :yesnod: :thumbup: :prrr:
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We hit a new low.
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We hit a new low.
And also hit a new high :lol:
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Awful, ugly, and gross rock. The worst route yet for me. The consistency of dried diarrhea. When you hit rock bottom, chug a quart of prune juice and start digging. a parade of shitfuckery.
The two square feet of drillable rock eight feet below the summit and the rappel were very good.
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Awful, ugly, and gross rock. The worst route yet for me. The consistency of dried diarrhea. When you hit rock bottom, chug a quart of prune juice and start digging. a parade of shitfuckery.
The two square feet of drillable rock eight feet below the summit and the rappel were very good.
The first bolt is also belay quality - well...what was the first bolt until you started cringing at that rotten traverse and drilled that bolt for a self back-belay. Kat and I went and ran up it again today and I surfaced your bolt and fixed (actually replaced) that bad directional/lead bolt I placed toward the top with a bomber 12mm long triplex. It is actually belay quality now too - although not in the best rock. Kat didn't think the climb was that bad and said she would rather lead it than Rock Bottom :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
We scrambled over toward Brittle Palace on the way down but ran short of time to climb it. I know prezactly where it is now and how to get there :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Easy and yuck. It was funny hearing your dissertation of the rock quality when you disappeared around the corner yesterday. The corridor was cool. Did you get a look beyond it?
Glad you had fun Go Kat :)
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Easy and yuck. It was funny hearing your dissertation of the rock quality when you disappeared around the corner yesterday.
Glad you had fun Go Kat :)
Just a reminder for you clink - the loose stool traverse? :lol:
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We don't have to climb this do we?
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This looks like the logical way up - drill baby drill - hmmm...is there anything here that isn't styrofoam? Like a needle in a haystack... :out:
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Summit of Prune Pinnacle - The Regular Route :crazy: :yesnod: :ciappa: :lol:
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Prooopy quality. Whew!
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Kat and I had an absolute blast on Saturday at Condor Crags.
I got us up the first pitch as an aid pitch on gear - my first time aiding on gear - super cool.
I led it as a free climb years ago when Kat and I did St. Valentines Day Massacre.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4647/38752138504_514707e4b8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/223oQF3)
Belaying Kat up the final 4th class section of the oldest roped climb in Pinns - that's a fairly long and hairy pitch of class four - it was a real treat to finally do it.
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Standing on the highest of the South Summits
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Climbing to the North Summit (taken from the South Summit).
After I got down there and got past the start, I realized I had climbed the upper section once before when I did Condor Condiment with the McConachie brothers
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4640/27683106019_5b08964348_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jbg9Xn)
Looking back over to Kat on the South Summit from North Summit
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It was super cool to finally do the old routes but I think the highlight of my day was leading the South Summit Traverse - here is Kat following
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Sendy!
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Summit of Prune Pinnacle - The Regular Route :crazy: :yesnod: :ciappa: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4645/27680790979_3c38f96f87_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jb4hLT)
That one actually looks like a prune (squished onto its end).
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That one actually looks like a prune (squished onto its end).
Keeping it regular my friend.
My mom would have especially liked this one :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
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Someone can do the Prune Direct or shall we call it The Derrierettissima.
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That one actually looks like a prune (squished onto its end).
And it's pitted :yesnod: :biggrin: :rolleyes:
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Someone can do the Prune Direct or shall we call it The Derrierettissima.
You should TR the rappel line and claim the FA :madman: :madmax: :incazzato: :devildevil:
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And it's pitted :yesnod: :biggrin: :rolleyes:
It also encourages the use of and epitomizes the term PILE :yesnod:
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It also encourages the use of and epitomizes the term PILE Yes Nod
Are you suppository about that?
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I moved this post to discourage any thread jacking on the Closures thread.
Well...I thought I moved it. Oops. So much for cut and paste.
Anyways...Kat and I had an interesting weekend starting with the outrageously heavy fog on Saturday.
When we got to the west side you could hardly see anything. On the trail we could barely see from one pinnacle to the next. One really cool benefit was how the fog provided a background for some of the hard to see formations that are normally superimposed on everything behind them. A fine example is almost centered. :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4619/38687235255_f75a0624ff_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21WEccv)
We hiked and inspected but were displeased by the moisture content of moss and lichen on our objectives, so we strayed from climbing and had a nice hike (we're soft). We saw little and hiked a lot. We stopped and chatted with Savannah at Condor Crags while she monitored for condors with no visual confirmation. What a strange day. We felt sorry for those visiting Pinns for the first time.
Yesterday we arrived to almost the same conditions. Driving through the Salad Bowl had been sunny but as soon as we hit Soledad - boom! No sun for you!!
We decided to hike the new Jawbone Canyon trail while we waited to see if things would clear. The trail is a nice addition with some beautiful sweeping views. It does have an eerie feel in the lower reaches where the moss covered trees close in for a stretch. Someone or something had been snacking on the trail.
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We had a nice hike up to the visitor center and then back down. The sky had cleared in the interim, so we decided to hustle up to the High Peaks and get some work done. While working, we were treated to condors, buzzards, ravens and falcons. I got buzzed repeatedly by falcons while working on the route. They didn't dive bomb me but they definitely let me know they were there. We had the added pleasure of seeing one of the west side roadrunners on the Jawbone Trail and a big coyote crossed the road by the automatic gate on the way out.
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Who did that stacked stone work, is it quarried locally? Looks like a lot of work went into this trail.
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Who did that stacked stone work, is it quarried locally? Looks like a lot of work went into this trail.
The rock in that wall did not look local to me. From what I have seen, the sedimentary rocks underlying parts of the vineyards are not well lithified - wouldn't make good building stone.
A lot of it appears to be limestone or marble but I did not do a scratch test for hardness or ultimately an acid test for carbonates.
Kat mentioned Don Chapin being involved in the trail surface but not sure about the wall - tons of work put into the trail - get out there and pound some ground :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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what the heck happened to that trail, holy sheep dip
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what the heck happened to that trail, holy sheep dip
Pretty sure that is tax dollars at work to bring more traffic so they can widen the West Side roads.
Today is 1/11/2018. ETA 5 years start seeing talk of it.
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Pretty sure that is tax dollars at work to bring more traffic so they can widen the West Side roads.
Today is 1/11/2018. ETA 5 years start seeing talk of it.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=349.0
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?projectId=12617
This link should take you to the pdf file where you can see the map of the proposed trails.
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/showFile.cfm?projectID=12617&MIMEType=application%252Fpdf&filename=PINN%20159539%20Public%20Scoping%20Newsletter1%2Epdf&sfid=215854
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What a great summit and Kat's first aid climb. We both thought this route was/is star worthy.
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Took Emily and Kristen out yesterday to Crud and Mud.
Wanted to warm up on Squeaky but there was water dripping off the bolts.
I also wanted to lead Hollywood Stars but it was totally soaked.
Took a run up Pay Dirt - forgot how much fun that climb is.
Ended the day on Ashes and the highest summit. I swear I could smell smoke in the air and it was completely overcast.
We still had fun.
Emily had only been climbing twice before.
We met at the PCAD and she is leaving Pinnacles soon for another assignment.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4747/24883459367_f0ab0e7101_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DUSexv)
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We decided to hike the new Jawbone Canyon trail while we waited to see if things would clear. The trail is a nice addition with some beautiful sweeping views. It does have an eerie feel in the lower reaches where the moss covered trees close in for a stretch. Someone or something had been snacking on the trail.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4719/39554084482_6b554b80d3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gg2gQ)
Kristen told me yesterday that this is a deer carcass from a mountain lion feeding. She said the lion hangs out in the area. I told her I swore I heard a murmur/growl up on the hillside in the brush when we went through there. Kat also said she saw a big cat the weekend we stayed at the Inn (I didn't believe her).
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Dear deer.
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Beano came out with her dad and baby girl (Kimberly) yesterday for the first time since Kim-bear was born.
It was great to have her out and see her back on the mud.
waldo joined us for some fun romps.
Beano follows Kat on Big Bad West
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4699/39939858542_57b3e4e948_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23RmdsJ)
waldo following Kat in the last section of See Ya Crater Alligator - Kat stepped up and led it yesterday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4696/39939859032_dfa6400e1b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23RmdBb)
waldo gettin' after it with a big high step on lead - Chockstone Dome - Overboard 5.8*
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Atomizer engaging in some Tomfoolery high above on the far north end of the Machete
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Hahahahahah. You caught us molesting the condor we captured on Machete Ridge. We arrived just in time to witness JC’s citizens arrest of the party climbing on Shake and Bake. I’ve got a video of this... loved the line “you could get climbing banned at Pinnacles by doing what you’re doing ... please come down” so funny. I wanted to harrass them to but you arrived just in time.
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The closure notices need pictures for the illiterate.
Condors Too?
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Hahahahahah. You caught us molesting the condor we captured on Machete Ridge. We arrived just in time to witness JC’s citizens arrest of the party climbing on Shake and Bake. I’ve got a video of this... loved the line “you could get climbing banned at Pinnacles by doing what you’re doing ... please come down” so funny. I wanted to harrass them to but you arrived just in time.
This is what Atomizer's condor looks like up close.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4673/28195892539_5a47e6f3c1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JXzjwg)
Multiple witnesses and a video - damn!
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I’d like to mention the condor is for my one year old nephew Frederick. His name is Condor West.
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Sorry, Kimberly tried to eat that condor's face. Is that against the rules too?
What happened on shake and bake? Do I need to bring a slingshot to keep the order? Maybe i'll bring one anyway ...
Good to be back out on the crud with y'all!
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aaand.. slingshot is on its way. damn u amazon prime
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Kat leads See Ya Crater Alligator
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4631/28209668349_54d6b095a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JYMVAe)
at the anchor - the smile says it all
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/28209668239_259144b9a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JYMVyk)
and a few cuddly shots
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/28209668149_626e28055c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JYMVwM)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/28209667919_96ee1c86b9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JYMVsP)
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I’d like to mention the condor is for my one year old nephew Frederick. His name is Condor West.
I'm sure you'll be a fun uncle :thumbup: :biggrin:
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baby mudder
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Got a good laugh from this two days ago.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114014683/rock-bottom
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wow, that looks heinous in that pic! lol
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We went looking for shade in February. Quite a bird show in the distance, over Piedras Bonitas Cliffs.
A couple of shared jokes from the ST;
A man walks into a zoo. The only animal in the entire zoo is a dog. It's a Shih Tzu.
There are blind skydivers. They can tell when they're near the ground 'cos the dog's lead goes slack......
PCPS: I have nothing against dogs.
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We went looking for shade in February. Quite a bird show in the distance, over Piedras Bonitas Cliffs.
VERY FAR off in the distance.
I saw at least 6 condors being followed and harassed by other smaller birds (not sure what type), a murder of crows (I counted 11 dog-fighting and dive bombing) and I kept hearing screams echoing way across the valley (a falcon?). The condors were also swooping and potentially dog-fighting and dive bombing - or perhaps performing some type of mid-air courtship?
clink was on stance, so he couldn't enjoy the sights. He was getting plenty of commentary from me.
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clink found this amazing formation on Friday.
It is truly the $hit!
Poo Poo Pinnacle - poo poo Ka choo - Paul was the Walrus :nonod: :yesnod: :rolleyes: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/40100304821_8a1222b8bc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/246wxxT)
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In a world where shit happens, things were looking up. :D
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My dog likes your jokes.
We went looking for shade in February. Quite a bird show in the distance, over Piedras Bonitas Cliffs.
A couple of shared jokes from the ST;
A man walks into a zoo. The only animal in the entire zoo is a dog. It's a Shih Tzu.
There are blind skydivers. They can tell when they're near the ground 'cos the dog's lead goes slack......
PCPS: I have nothing against dogs.
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Time to post some routes.
clink and I ended the year with this one.
I was hesitating on this one since it is so close to the Teapots - they are under the raptor closures.
I'm still not sure if it is okay to get on - Gavin said he'd have to check it out.
Prune Pinnacle – The Regular Route 5.2
Approach Prune Pinnacle from the Juniper Canyon Trail. Hike up the Juniper Canyon Trail to the 6th switchback above Palisade Pinnacle or down to the 4th switchback below the Tunnel Trail Junction. Go off the trail to the west (downhill) and skirt north across the hillside for 100 feet through a little brush and then a few small trees until you reach an obvious deep corridor of rock between Prune Pinnacle and the next formation uphill (no name) from it. Start climbing up the southeast toe of the formation for about 15 feet - up and onto a broad shoulder of rock. Walk along the shoulder toward an obvious notch between a small sub pinnacle and the main formation. A 3-inch cam can be placed in a pocket to protect the easy but exposed traverse to the base of the notch. A small cam in a crack on the right can be used to protect moves up and over the notch. There is a bolt with a screwlink on the other side of the notch that can be used by the follower to back belay across the next section (a loose traverse). From the top of the notch, scramble down along an awkward, exposed, somewhat stepped ledge. There are virtually no hand holds for this traverse since none of the rock on the right wall is reliable (very loose). Continue across the traverse and into a steep gully/corner. Step up to a second bolt and then climb past a small tree (scrub oak) and up to a cluster of small scrub oaks. Move through the cluster of small scrub oaks into a comfortable notch and another bolt. A belay is recommended here to avoid rope drag. Climb a short face to the sub summit and scramble across a narrow ridge to the true summit (120 feet from the start). The upper belay/rappel anchor is 10 feet below the true summit on the west side. Rappel 80 feet back to a point near the start of the climb. The rappel is a little tricky – move left along the face a little less than halfway down – then continue - to avoid a large loose flake on the face to the right – which can also hang up the ends of your rope.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran FA Date: 12-31-17
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4758/39412972654_0f5a9fcd76_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/233MMDh)
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clink and I finished this route on the back side of Knuckle Ridge last Friday. It turned out to be more fun than expected. The rock quality kept getting better as we got higher and there is some interesting movement - step-throughs, slab moves, hidden sidepulls...
Stays in shade for most of the day.
We found an old hex head bolt (probably a drop-in anchor) with a Leeper up top - oriented along the ridge as if someone had used it for pro or used it to get down in the vicinity of the chimney (which is part of the Knuckle Ridge menagerie - see route correction number 28). Can't imagine how we missed it the day Noal, Brad, Kat and I investigated the Traverse.
O Brother Where Art Thou? 5.6* - climbs the west side of the 4th Knuckle along the far left-hand edge. 5 bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor with chains, 60 feet from the start. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Caleb Rightmyer, Kathy Cook, Brad Young. FA Date: 2-2-18
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/40092086602_68ebf6c863_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/245Nqys)
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Saving the best for last but no pictures yet (I'll try to post some later).
clink, Kat and I have been working on some new stuff at Rubble Wall. I was trying to wait a bit until we had enough to make it worth the trip up there and also because the weather has not been warm enough until recently to want to go back. I have aspirations for a few more routes and some eventual rebolting.
Here is what we have done so far:
North side of Rubble Wall
– great on a hot day (stays shady). Approach time 1hour 45 minutes
Hammer in My Heart 5.2* - this unusual route is located on a unique ridge of
rock known as The Heart of Pinnacles. The ridge is situated on the hillside on the
northeastern side of Rubble Wall. The ridge is oriented NE-SW, roughly parallel to and
separated by a 50-foot gap from the ridge that comprises The Teeth. The ridge has a large,
slightly rotated, heart-shaped hole about midway down its length. To reach the ridge, go to the
uphill (eastern end) of Rubble Wall and follow along the base of the wall in a downhill fashion
(to the northwest). There is some 3rd class scrambling required.
It is possible to walk and scramble along the top of The Heart of Pinnacles from the
uphill side. The section directly above the heart-shaped hole is the narrowest and most
exposed.
There is a large boulder on the hillside just uphill from the start of the climb that makes a great
staging area (on its uphill side). Walk downhill and around the toe of the ridge to the side nearest
the Teeth (northwest side) to start the route. Scramble up a knobby face to two huge knobs
reminiscent of Photographer’s Delight, below an obvious overhanging notch. Step up to the base
of the notch and clip a bolt on the right side, inside the notch. The end of the large protruding
feature on the left (the Donger) should be avoided, as should the bread-loaf sized knob
directly below it. If you are climbing this unique route – please take care not to damage
or destroy the Donger. Move up into the notch and surmount it (5.2). Step over to the
huge, exposed knob on the right and then continue up to the top of the ridge (class four).
Traverse the ridge for another 60 feet, taking advantage of slingable features and
directional channels in the rock. Belay by slinging a large pointed horn near the end of the
ridge, 100 feet from the start. Walk off. The climbing to the top of the ridge is 45 feet
long. Protection – one bolt and several double-length slings (4 foot).
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 10-29-17
I'd like to dedicate this climb to my mother, Patricia Lawrence. May she rest in peace.
Pebbles and Bam Bam 5.8* - Pebbles and Bam Bam is one of two steep and knobby routes on a
north facing wall below The Teeth. From Hammer in my Heart, walk 75 feet down the
hill to your left (west) and then along the base of the wall until you reach a nice staging area
below The Teeth. Looking up from the staging area, a mossy ramp leads to a wall covered with a
mix of large and huge knobs, several mossy water streaks and looming at the top are giant, head-
like protrusions of rock. The notch where the West Tooth route starts is almost directly above on
your right. Pebbles and Bam Bam starts to the right of the left-most mossy water chute (on clean,
gray rock) for 3 bolts, moves left into the chute for one bolt and then moves back right to a 5th
bolt and out right and up to finish. It may also be possible to climb straight up from the 5th bolt
but the rock is absolutely filthy and moss covered and that is not the way the first ascent was
achieved. Walk/scramble (up and right) about 15 feet from the top of the route to a 2-bolt anchor
with chains, located above one of the most unique pieces of rock in Pinnacles – The Recliner.
Take a seat on this amazing stone chair and relax after climbing - with incredible views.
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 11-19-17
Betty and Barney 5.6* - Betty and Barney starts up the mossy water streak 12 feet right of
Pebbles and Bam Bam. The original plan to climb to the right of this chute/streak on the clean
gray blunt arete was thwarted by poor rock quality (for drilling). The rock looks great but every
tested spot rang/sounded hollow. Climb big holds to a steep stance and the first bolt. Move
up past the first bolt where a giant rectangular lodestone can be slung if desired. The second bolt
can be clipped when standing on this same lodestone. Stem up past the second bolt and reach
high to make a slabby/mantly exit. Walk/scramble up to the anchor above The Recliner. Rappel
the face between the two climbs. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 2-4-18
Long in the Tooth 5.8** - This route starts at the base of the slightly northwest facing wall
below West Tooth and climbs to the summit of West Tooth (on the opposite side from the
original route). From staging at Pebbles and Bam Bam/Betty and Barney, walk 40 feet down
(west) and around the toe of the ridge that comprises The Teeth.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 - Climb up past 3 bolts and then make a traverse left into an obvious chute. A huge
lodestone can be slung in the chute (6-foot sling) to protect the final moves to the 2-bolt
anchor/belay above. 75 feet.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 - climb up and right above the anchor (the Take a Knee Traverse) and then
start up the steep face past 3 closely spaced bolts. Past the 3rd bolt, an easy runout leads to
one more bolt that protects moves to the “peek-a-boo” anchor. The true summit can be reached
by moving up and left from the anchor to reach the “armpit” of the hole-in-the-arch and then
back right to stand on the big knob inches below the anchor. The anchor was placed lower than
the summit in the concave hollow, due to the total lack of surface area and drillable rock on
the summit (the summit sounds like styrofoam or cardboard when struck with a hammer).
Careful rappelling over a wildly exposed and then overhanging line deposits you back perfectly
at the p1 anchor. Belaying your follower from the top of pitch 2 is not recommended.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 11-8-17
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The Heart of Pinnacles - Hammer in My Heart climbs the left skyline.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_b98643b3f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
Inspecting The Donger on Hammer in My Heart - that lodestone the rope is draped over is the loose knob in the description.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/38048404621_f177945808_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZYd27e)
Has anyone played around on the new version of Google Earth? It is crazy cool.
Here is a screen shot showing The Teeth on the left and you can see The Heart of Pinnacles - start from center and move up and right. See the hole? Wild that the resolution is this good.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/26263466198_a8bf2fc349_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G1P8uJ)
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Stance for bolt 4 Pebbles and Bam Bam
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4744/40137364621_306b7baf9f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/249Nu8X)
Stemming up past bolt 2 on Betty and Barney
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4623/26263727728_ca7c74f35c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G1QteS)
Enjoying a rest between anchor bolts on The Recliner
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/26770041049_c2a8452647_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMzsxT)
Coming down after finishing pitch 2 of Long in the Tooth
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38222546756_a8a9bd4029_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21eAxuQ)
clink below me at the pitch 1 anchor as he lowers me from the pitch 2 anchor on Long in the Tooth.
We were shocked at how well the pitch 2 anchor deposited me back at the pitch 1 anchor.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38296414461_2c5b2158bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21m88MX)
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That is/was cool!
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I have to ask. Is this part of the traverse that goes from one side of the ridge to the other ( starts at one end of Knuckle Ridge and goes to the other end )?
clink and I finished this route on the back side of Knuckle Ridge last Friday. It turned out to be more fun than expected. The rock quality kept getting better as we got higher and there is some interesting movement - step-throughs, slab moves, hidden sidepulls...
Stays in shade for most of the day.
We found an old hex head bolt (probably a drop-in anchor) with a Leeper up top - oriented along the ridge as if someone had used it for pro or used it to get down in the vicinity of the chimney (which is part of the Knuckle Ridge menagerie - see route correction number 28). Can't imagine how we missed it the day Noal, Brad, Kat and I investigated the Traverse.
O Brother Where Art Thou? 5.6* - climbs the west side of the 4th Knuckle along the far left-hand edge. 5 bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor with chains, 60 feet from the start. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Caleb Rightmyer, Kathy Cook, Brad Young. FA Date: 2-2-18
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/40092086602_68ebf6c863_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/245Nqys)
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The belay seat looks cool.
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I have to ask. Is this part of the traverse that goes from one side of the ridge to the other ( starts at one end of Knuckle Ridge and goes to the other end )?
O Brother! - Just kidding :biggrin:
I'm glad you asked that question. The chimney to the left of the new route is the 4th class way to the top of the left 5th Knuckle and from the top of that same chimney, a short face (10 feet of 5.3) leads to the top of the 4th Knuckle. After 10 or 15 feet of walking along the ridge top (maybe more - I didn't measure) - you stumble over that old bolt we found - which is oriented in line with the ridge top.
From Correction 28
28. Correction, pages 149 and 150 (route 383 “Knuckle Ridge Traverse”)
Knuckle Ridge 5.3 R This mountaineering style route gains all five summits of Knuckle Ridge by the easiest possible means. In each case, “the easiest possible means” is by first ascending a slot or chimney from the west side of the formation and then climbing to a summit from there. As described below, a climber will return to the ground (to change chimneys) between some summit ascents. By way of further reference, the “knuckles” of Knuckle Ridge are numbered one through five from south to north. This route ascends the fifth through the first knuckles, as follows:
- The fifth (north-most) summit is easy to reach by way of the small slot/chimney between it and the fourth summit.
- The fourth summit is reached by 10 feet of 5.3 done just above the same slot. Return to the ground on the west side of the ridge after these two summits.
Here is a photo topo of the new route
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/40106417192_5acca4ff5f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2474SxA)
Here is the old bolt - oriented in line with the ridge traverse
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4666/40106477862_c963af2e15_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2475bzC)
The strange thing is it is oriented to the right (3rd knuckle) as if they either used it for pro (no need that I saw) or to rappel over the front side or the end of the 4th Knuckle - maybe to get to the 3rd Knuckle? Things that make ya go hmmmmm.
I couldn't get a socket over it and we couldn't get it loose with a crescent wrench to see what type of bolt it is - I suspect it is a drop in.
Here's a shot showing all 5 Knuckles from their back side (west side) and The Outcast. Just for clarification - The old bolt is pointing toward the Outcast.
(from left to right 5 4 3 2 1 Outcast) for those unfamiliar with the formation
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/28358788039_875f993b05_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KcYcFn)
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The belay seat looks cool.
It honestly is like nothing else I have ever seen - it is like someone sculpted the damn thing.
It is even big enough to be cozy for two and the view is unreal :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Thank you for the clarification. I did not use a rope when I did the traverse so I cannot speak in regards to the bolts. I think most of the chimneys have been climbed at one time or another so perhaps it was used in that regards. Or, perhaps they were bored.
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There is a fun bouldering wall out there that we spent a fair bit of time on. Seems to me it was not to far from Knuckle Ridge but before the Shaft.
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Thank you for the clarification. I did not use a rope when I did the traverse so I cannot speak in regards to the bolts. I think most of the chimneys have been climbed at one time or another so perhaps it was used in that regards. Or, perhaps they were bored.
No sweat.
The bolt is definitely a mystery. I figured if we had seen it years ago, I would have made a note in my climbing log - but there is nothing there and no notes in my guidebook either. Looks like there is an anchor on every summit or within scrambling distance of each summit (except the 5th Knuckle) - from subsequent or old routes.
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There is a fun bouldering wall out there that we spent a fair bit of time on. Seems to me it was not to far from Knuckle Ridge but before the Shaft.
Might be where climberdude did some new climbs - lots of rock out there :thumbup: :biggrin:
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The Heart of Pinnacles - Hammer in My Heart climbs the left skyline.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_b98643b3f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
The chance to find, explore and name such a unique feature is a treat. Maybe even a gift. Lucky you.
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Cool that you found such a unique formation to dedicate in memory of your mother.
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As JC mentioned, there is a lot of rock out in the area. I have not developed any climbs on formations between The Knuckles and The Shaft. Pisa Pinnacle, where I put up two climbs, is further north/northwest from the Shaft. There is an overhanging north side of Pisa Pinnacle which perhaps could have potential boulder problems, but I would question how well the features are attached. The climbs I put up on Pisa Pinnacle are on the slabby west side ("Black Sun In A White World") and the somewhat steeper south side ("Silence Has A Right To Be Heard") of Pisa Pinnacle. If one looks from the Reservoir up to the south side of the High Peaks, you can see the reason Pisa Pinnacle got its name.
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The chance to find, explore and name such a unique feature is a treat. Maybe even a gift. Lucky you.
Truly a gift. I feel so lucky to be a part of the Pinnacles community. I also have to give the real credit to clink. He made his way around and down along the wall to find this beauty on a day when we were exploring. He clung to the other side and did a peek-a-boo though the hole before I made my way around from the top to take that picture.
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Cool that you found such a unique formation to dedicate in memory of your mother.
Thanks buddy. I spent some time with mom out on the rocks today :thumbup: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
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I saw Jennifer Wang with some friends in the parking lot today.
They were headed out to The Hand to climb Love Line.
Jennifer said she and a friend had already spent 8 hours trying to work through the route - that is some serious determination.
I got some pics but probably won't have time to post for a couple days.
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Good for them! Make it happen!
JC, I don't think we're going to make it tomorrow at all. :(
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Good for them! Make it happen!
JC, I don't think we're going to make it tomorrow at all. :(
Bummer bro.
Saw Gavin this morning too and he may join us tamale.
Give Cheez a squeeze for me and have fun on the ice if you two go :biggrin:
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Gavin snuck up on us about two-thirds of the way up the Chalone Peak trail.
I had the pleasure of watching him climb Long in the Tooth with Kat. She had climbed pitch one but not pitch two.
They dug it.
I was only sorry I could not get further downhill with a big lens for some better shots.
The Frog, Hand or better yet The Outback would be a good spot to catch this one.
Gavin left to get some more climbing in with Brian and Whitney while Kat and I summited a new pinnacle.
Of course this was after I realized I had forgotten my harness - how embarrassing!
Saw Savannah, Emily and a few of their friends on the way out.
Fun day.
Tomorrow should be fun too - meeting clink and a sizable contingent on the west side.
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Tomorrow should be fun too - meeting clink and a sizable contingent on the west side.
Here's a couple shots from the fun today :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4712/39504839634_35eef848f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23bUCuJ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4610/26343562708_288bff0ac3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8TDp3)
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A few shots from Gavin and Kat's 2nd ascent of Long in the Tooth on Saturday
Gavin at the p2 anchor with Kat at p1 anchor - Pitch 1 goes up right of the skyline (can't be seen in this pic) - same goes for pitch 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4627/40183768772_f0213cb555_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24dUjtw)
Kat at the last lead bolt as Gavin sets up the rappel.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/26343788578_8f897c3367_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8UNxm)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/26343869308_13f83f65ec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8Vdxf)
Kat goes free on the rappel
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/40183768302_c68c3da31b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24dUjkq)
Gavin gets to the wild part - check out the jet too :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4760/26343788458_d792766684_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8UNvh)
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looks awesome, on both counts
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Here is the info on the new route Kat and I did on Saturday.
Molar 5.3R About half the climbing on this short route happens on a slab that is adjacent to and separated from Molar by a gap. Approach by moving uphill and across (southwest) about 25 feet from the point where The Heart of Pinnacles ridge dies into the hill. Enter a shallow corridor and climb up a clean slab (mossy at the base) until you can stem across the gap to Molar. Reach high into the chute on Molar and grab a huge hand hold that allows you to commit over and into the chute. Climb to the top past the two-bolt anchor with chains. A short rappel (30 feet) returns you to the start.
Here is a photo topo. It is hard to see the gap between the pinnacle (Molar) and the slab next to it but you will become aware of it (and the drop over the other side) if you do the climb. You could probably sling the huge hand hold - so it may not end up with an R. I also debated whether or not to put an anchor on the climb, since a Pinnacles rappel could easily be arranged. In the end I decided an anchor would be better for multiple reasons. I found no evidence that this summit had ever been climbed.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4650/39333008755_73bfb34b7b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22VHXan)
Here is a photo taken from the top of the wall looking down. You can see the drill dust from the anchor under the M in Molar.
The belay knob I labeled is the one I used for Hammer in My Heart.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4623/26358136788_43ba31d9b2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GabkLh)
Here is a location shot from Google Earth. Forgive me if this seems like overkill but I have a lot of fun making this stuff and sharing it. I still cannot get over how cool the new version of Google Earth is :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/39333008445_123b444c45_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22VHX52)
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That top down view is very helpful. I have no way to orient from prior descriptions.
Look forward to a day when I can get on a bunch of these new lines.
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That top down view is very helpful. I have no way to orient from prior descriptions.
Look forward to a day when I can get on a bunch of these new lines.
Cool. I think you will like it. I think we have probably been up there 9 or 10 times now. I still haven't done the old routes!
With the old and new routes there are 10 now and still some enticing looking lines :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Happy Valentines Day to all you mudders
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_b98643b3f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
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I love Valentine's Day.
I love it because Vicki and I agreed long ago that it's a totally artificial "holiday." We both skip it (and spread that allotment of love out over the rest of the year).
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I love Valentine's Day.
I love it because Vicki and I agreed long ago that it's a totally artificial "holiday." We both skip it (and spread that allotment of love out over the rest of the year).
Same here for Mrs. Munge and I. We might do little things during the week, but trying to go out or big batches of flowers on the day of is pure insanity.
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Same here for Mrs. Munge and I. We might do little things during the week, but trying to go out or big batches of flowers on the day of is pure insanity.
Right there with you guys - nothing fancy for us either. Usually JC makes me a card which is so much better than a store bought one.
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Right there with you guys - nothing fancy for us either. Usually JC makes me a card which is so much better than a store bought one.
Uh oh.
Hey Tuff Chik - I hope you'll be my Valentine or I might just croak
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/25399867097_94592e8a7f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EGuXz4)
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I got the dog a bone
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We are having a "meat" themed Valentines.
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A lovely Valentines Day joke;
MARRIED TENNESSEE FOOTBALL PLAYER
Q: How can you tell if a University of Tennessee football player is married?
A: There is tobacco spit on both sides of his pickup truck.
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JC, you should write for Hallmark.
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Kat and I climbed the Shako today and the routes are fun.
Back Track feels old school and like a mini mountaineering adventure.
In terms of gear I used a red alien, a blue tricam and a blue camalot.
The upper loose part felt a little scary mainly because it is awkward with no pro.
I put a sling on the tree before I leaned back and started climbing. I put another sling on the high crook as a directional for Kat. There is a wide crack/squeeze chimney that could be climbed if the tree ever bites the dust.
Hat Trick was fun. The pin protects (what felt like the crux of the climb to me) perfectly.
The bolts and the anchor are very nice. I didn't place any gear but there were a few opportunities.
Cool spot and a nice addition to the ridge.
Never gonna do it without your fez on...
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Done with Shako.
Time for a late lunch Snack-o :yesnod: :biggrin: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/40351458911_14c96c4743_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24tHLUP)
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Nice pic of you two :)
Rose and Jason climbed four of the snakes and were asking when are we going climbing next. Brad and Brian battled over the bulges this weekend. Caleb and Layton jumped into all the mix.
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Forecast was pure funk today and Kat was feeling a bit under the weather so we sat it out. Looks like it was a frigid day with high temp of 47 and sun peaked, then took a dive around noon. Brad and crew were supposed to be out there - musta been butt cold - especially since wind was still gusting up around 20mph - peaked at 27 at 3:30.
We hiked down from Pea Break to Nebulous Knob yesterday and took a gander - looks like a cool route but I figured I'd wait until I can replace the bolts and climb some of the other stuff around there - plus we were tired and it was already cool and really windy (wind was up in the 30mph range yesterday).
Climber coffee was fun yesterday. Stop by and say hi 8:30 to 10:00 on Sundays for the next couple months (bring a mug).
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Kat and I climbed the Shako today and the routes are fun.
Back Track feels old school and like a mini mountaineering adventure.
In terms of gear I used a red alien, a blue tricam and a blue camalot.
The upper loose part felt a little scary mainly because it is awkward with no pro.
I put a sling on the tree before I leaned back and started climbing. I put another sling on the high crook as a directional for Kat. There is a wide crack/squeeze chimney that could be climbed if the tree ever bites the dust.
Hat Trick was fun. The pin protects (what felt like the crux of the climb to me) perfectly.
The bolts and the anchor are very nice. I didn't place any gear but there were a few opportunities.
Cool spot and a nice addition to the ridge.
Never gonna do it without your fez on...
Figuring out a finish for Back Track was difficult.
I agree that the upper loose part (just before reaching the tree) was scary and awkward. I was relieved to put a sling around its trunk. And then I tried the short chimney section just left of the tree. I got in a poor quality cam and the moves felt like they were going to be 5.8 or 5.9. I liked the sling around that tree. But even doubled in length it still created a cluster f#$%. And finishing a fun, mountaineering-type route with a difficult, poorly protected chimney seemed like a bad choice (especially since Tricia was following).
Moving right to finish on Hat Trick didn't seem like a good choice either. Too far right.
I didn't like the "tree-assisted" finish, but it was the lesser of three evils.
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Forecast was pure funk today and Kat was feeling a bit under the weather so we sat it out. Looks like it was a frigid day with high temp of 47 and sun peaked, then took a dive around noon. Brad and crew were supposed to be out there - musta been butt cold - especially since wind was still gusting up around 20mph - peaked at 27 at 3:30.
We hiked down from Pea Break to Nebulous Knob yesterday and took a gander - looks like a cool route but I figured I'd wait until I can replace the bolts and climb some of the other stuff around there - plus we were tired and it was already cool and really windy (wind was up in the 30mph range yesterday).
Climber coffee was fun yesterday. Stop by and say hi 8:30 to 10:00 on Sundays for the next couple months (bring a mug).
I arrived at upper parking yesterday to very light snow flurries (I was the first one there). We hiked to and climbed the JC/KC/Clink routes in the New World. In snow flurries. I spent most of the day in two shirts and two jackets!
This morning it's 18 degrees here at home.
Any details about the coffee? Lots of visitors? Ratio of climbers to curious non-climbers? Quality of the coffee ;)
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^^^
Photos coming, but I haven't even unloaded the car yet.
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Quit lollygagging.
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Figuring out a finish for Back Track was difficult.
Sounds like the origin of the name.
I agree that the upper loose part (just before reaching the tree) was scary and awkward. I was relieved to put a sling around its trunk. And then I tried the short chimney section just left of the tree. I got in a poor quality cam and the moves felt like they were going to be 5.8 or 5.9. I liked the sling around that tree. But even doubled in length it still created a cluster f#$%. And finishing a fun, mountaineering-type route with a difficult, poorly protected chimney seemed like a bad choice (especially since Tricia was following).
Moving right to finish on Hat Trick didn't seem like a good choice either. Too far right.
I didn't like the "tree-assisted" finish, but it was the lesser of three evils.
I stepped up on a boulder at the base of the tree and girth hitched a sling up above my head to get started and then eventually another in the upper tree crook. I laid back off the left trunk of the tree with both hands on opposite sides and just monkeyed up until I could swing into the crook between the two trunks - discarding any sense of rock climbing and channeling my inner chimp. I girth hitched the second sling and then cast off a second time on the tree to gain the top of the rock. Kat traversed around right after the initial tree climb - avoiding the second shorter tree climb. She didn't have to go very far and it seemed way easier.
Eyeballing the second of three phases on Back Track.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/40339217482_61445dda3e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24sD2XG)
Moving through the attention getting section above bolt 1 on Hat Trick
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4664/39673523884_81e2a7f657_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23rPbrS)
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Taking belay duty seriously (at The Northeast Frontier, while Brian drills):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4603/40389384371_6a6c8a7bd1_c.jpg)
Top Knot Pinnacle yesterday (in conditions that are about as different from the first ascent as possible):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4762/39492672055_811d7b0ba2_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4707/40389393221_0f74e6e5f6_c.jpg)
Snow flakes blow by as Sonja rappels from The Flask:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4616/40389396781_8d34b8f252_c.jpg)
Snow as we hike out:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4610/39492771445_6b3b41c88f_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4707/39492772505_020da0423b_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4741/39492773165_5d26bef28e_c.jpg)
Snow as we pass Cortadura Wall:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4750/39492773835_614835d0ef_c.jpg)
Snowing lightly with the High Peaks in the background:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4709/39492774615_ac73223c6d_c.jpg)
None of the snow stuck of course. But I kept laughing at our cold conditions as I compared them to the wilting heat that the first ascent party encountered in The New World ;D
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Those are some great people and summit shots - especially The Flask.
The hero shot on Top Knot is fun too.
I was surprised by the size of that summit - it looks so small from certain angles.
Looks like you guys had fun despite the weather.
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Who is behind Sonja in the trail pic?
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Who is behind Sonja in the trail pic?
That's her boyfriend Eban (no typo). He's Skelton's age, started climbing in 1968. Hasn't done much at Pinnacles though. He seemed to have a ball (as did all of us).
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That's her boyfriend Eban (no typo). He's Skelton's age, started climbing in 1968. Hasn't done much at Pinnacles though. He seemed to have a ball (as did all of us).
I may have met him a few weeks ago when I talked mostly to Jennifer in the parking lot. That reminds me - I left her a note that I would post a pic of them on the Hand. I think I fell down on the job.
Did you guys have tick talk? Kat and I picked up a multitude of them on the exploration of Nebulous Knob - due to the cool temps no doubt. I figured you guys would be inundated up there.
Here are a couple pics of Jennifer on Love Line
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4702/39495121405_3afa65ca97_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23b3PB4)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/39495121285_2df8b4e7b1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23b3PyZ)
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clink, KC and I finished a new route in the NE Frontier on Saturday while Brad and Jennifer were finishing another route.
clink took the lead and drilled two bolts from awkward stances to set me up for the crux.
It was funny, because looking at that section from below, it looks like it is just going to be fun. Then you get up there and realize how awkward and strange the movement is. I have to compliment clink on his choice of placements and how well protected the climb is through the difficulties. Mud and I were discussing clink's ability to tough out weird stances and get bolts in quickly. His abilities are truly admirable.
After he set the trap, clink came down and suggested I go up and check it out, clean some (by hanging if necessary) and then see if I could get above there and get another bolt in. I got up to a good stemming stance and started reaching around. Spoiler Alert - To my surprise, there was a deep and very secure mono digit that you cannot see. It doesn't help you make progress, but it allows you to feel around and get set for the moves. What I find even more amusing is the fact that there is also a mono digit on Soap Box Slab (the next route over).
I brushed off a foothold on the face with my fingers and decided to try moving up. I thought I heard clink say - There he goes.
Once above the crux, I placed a bolt from a slabby stance and looked ahead. We decided the most logical path would be to join Soap Box Slab at its next bolt. clink lowered me off and I led clean back up to the bolt I had just placed. From there, a mossy and slightly loose traverse up and right gets you to the stance and 4th bolt on Soap Box Slab.
Trifecta 5.8 Trifecta starts 20 feet left (downhill) of Soapbox Slab and climbs past 5 bolts, joining Soapbox Slab at its 4th bolt, 60 feet from the start. Finish on Soapbox Slab (2 more bolts).
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 2-24-18
clink drilling the crux bolt utilizing his strength, stamina and Pretzel Logic :biggrin: :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4670/25632239647_2f721116f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F42VQk)
Sussing out the crux section
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/39607257865_ca50a4fe56_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23kXxSi)
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Nice and congratulations!
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So was the twinsies clothing done on purpose (says the guy who's happened to grab an orange T shirt to wear that day)?
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Nice and congratulations!
Thanks Mud. Sounds like you guys have some great routes and I better start climbing harder :lol:
So was the twinsies clothing done on purpose (says the guy who's happened to grab an orange T shirt to wear that day)?
I actually had my green Pinns t-shirt on under the sweatshirt so I am glad you were representing. I am surprised the crud didn't spit me off at the crux :yesnod: :biggrin: I was chuckling at our dark light opposite choices in pants and knee pads.
I told clink on the way out that I couldn't get used to his new pack (actually resurrected) and that next time I could bring him one of our extra jet packs with a bunch of little black pouches and a visor if he would prefer that. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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If you liked my rebolting TR, here's a few more pictures of Nebulous Knob.
It's a bit of a chore to get to, mainly because the slope is steep, off camber and a huge tree fell on the old approach path just a few yards from where it leaves the Condor Gulch Trail. If you move up the main trail a bit further (maybe 50 feet), the slope down is relatively clear. Aim for a huge boulder in the stream drainage and watch for Poison Oak. Cross a log jam and then head up mossy slabs that lead to a fairly well trodden access path. The path follows high above the drainage about midway along the slope with some ups and downs around obstacles. It eventually leads you to some waterfall steps in the drainage before heading a bit further along the slope (a little past the Knob) and then up steep hummocks and loose, loamy scree slopes.
The Knob is a good example of one of those formations that looks totally different from various angles (don't they all?).
Once you have this view, continue past it before you head up (if you want a brush free approach). It's pretty obvious.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4667/25636505707_eb377da0c7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F4pMZ6)
It looks like you can scramble up from below but there was some PO so we headed up high and then traversed in. There is some scrambling toward the end. The route starts by surmounting several large boulders and then standing atop the last one and leaning over to the formation. It isn't Maniac's Delight but the drop is a heck of a lot farther and the exposure is pretty hairy. Making the move off that boulder on to the formation is damn scary on lead and the rock quality is poor with few holds. It is what Brad and I like to call a huck up move and hard for me to rate. Blow it and you are likely to need a rescue. Felt like classic Pinnacles climbing to me.
Here is Kat working up the nerve to commit to that initial move. It is hard to do even as a follower.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/38696716370_90a70c8ddd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21XuMB1)
Happy at the summit. Don't be fooled by how easy this looks. It is really exposed and I think you'll be happy to clip that nice new replacement lead bolt before you head up the final section. The lead bolt is one of those keep you from going all the way bolts and doesn't do a lot in terms of protecting the difficulties above.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4695/38696715950_a72763262c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21XuMtL)
We had quite the condor show while I was working on the rebolt. They came in close once or twice.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/40506935551_062c6753c2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24HsCGx)
Great views of Pipsqueak ridge and The Shako.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4611/25636505547_aeda3c4266_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F4pMWk)
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Geez, talk about a quest for mud. Toward the end of the day I started feeling like Ron Pearlman's caveman character stranded in the tree by lions the morning after. If you haven't seen Quest for Fire you won't get it and you've also denied yourself a great treat of a movie IMHO.
Jason and I had a bit of misadventure yesterday at The OutBack. Don't get me wrong, we had fun but we spent a large part of the day trying to navigate around the area avoiding PO while we searched for the routes. This was completely my fault. I had been there before and had the initial map, so I didn't see any need to take Brad's updated approach directions. Oops.
We eventually spied an anchor on one of the Central Outback summits and found the cheese at the end of the maze.
We climbed both of those summits and I have to compliment and thank Brad for putting rappel anchors on both of them. We both liked the West summit better and there is a cool corridor with a big tree just below the start that looked like a good place for a nap or a shady picnic. I was about ready to abort finding the Buttress climbs until Jason suggested checking one more thing uphill. It turned out to be a really fun way to end the day. We only had time to climb Off With Her Hands but if that one doesn't get a star, Lonesome Me must be worth two. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: We both though OWHH was star worthy and really fun. It is super steep for the grade, very inviting, well protected and the amount of usable holds is shocking. The anchor was situated nicely to lower off and allow us to take turns leading the route before scrambling back up to the summit to retrieve my alpine draws.
Here is a photo map from Google Earth and a photo topo of Off With Her Hands. The 4th bolt can't be seen until you are very near it. Looking forward to a return trip to climb the other routes and work on some more. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
The South arrow is slightly skewed but it's only off by a couple degrees. Note other location arrows.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/39966625394_d2b2d9ce2d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23THpjb)
photo topo for the very inviting route Off With Her Hands
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/39966625464_89ef6da46f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23THpko)
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Nice JC. The PO is bad out there in places.
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Here are some shots from Monday. I went out with Brad, Russ and Dave to work on some new stuff.
Our first objective was a pinnacle Brad set his sights on up near Clinker.
The approach had some 3rd class and some PO to dodge. The PO in that area is already in full leaf. YUCK!
The climb was super mossy and still a bit damp. A slung tree branch was the only psychological pro.
The branch had way too much sway in it to inspire me to want to trust it.
The route starts in a large saddle that will catch the rope and the leader, providing they fall off to the left.
Brad took the lead and started working on an anchor. I led up and started working on a second anchor bolt.
Dave led last and finished the hole Brad started. Once I had my bolt done I belayed Russ up to join us.
The rappel went free for about the last 20 feet, depositing us in a PO free area. Thanks to Brad for supplying one of the bolts plus the chain and screwlinks.
After The Barge we went and started 2 more new routes. Brad fixed a pin and got a bolt started. Russ and Dave took turns drilling the bolt hole. It was a tough chore using an aider for one foot to gain a stemming stance. Russ and Dave are just getting started with drilling and they did a great job of sticking with it and getting the bolt placed. I got three bolts in the line I started. Looks like both lines will be long and fun when they are finished. Can't wait to get back up there :biggrin:
Brad at the summit (taken from more than halfway up the route, looking at the final furry slab)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4779/39970459314_66be509ac5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23U441f)
Dave and JC drilling the anchor bolts
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/26809279818_9398fcf362_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GR3ySo)
Russ follows the route
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4793/26809280198_1c14e98155_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GR3yYW)
Russ nearing the summit
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4781/39970459174_e2b13fcb49_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23U43XQ)
Brad raps first from the nicely equalized anchor
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4799/26809279658_e266d5ea31_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GR3yPC)
The Barge from downhill at the start of the approach
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4774/26809280438_dc558eb52b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GR3z45)
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Anticipating some fun with Brad and Jim in the New World tomorrow.
I don't like the look of the forecast after tomorrow. More rain on the way.
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Anticipating some fun with Brad and Jim in the New World tomorrow.
I don't like the look of the forecast after tomorrow. More rain on the way.
We had a blast getting on top of 2 new summits Thursday and Friday. Jim and Brad took off yesterday afternoon after we finished Quadruple Decker.
The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Should we write a book?
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We had a blast getting on top of 2 new summits Thursday and Friday. Jim and Brad took off yesterday afternoon after we finished Quadruple Decker.
The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Should we write a book?
Here's a couple teaser shots from Google Earth. I'm sure Brad is working on the descriptions for Quadruple Decker and Goliath.
The others are already posted.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4777/40022747934_9c1a622ff7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23YF3Ab)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4774/40022748064_42edab47a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23YF3Cq)
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...I'm sure Brad is working on the descriptions for Quadruple Decker and Goliath.
No, as per the email I just sent you: Brad is spending a joyous morning fighting with moronic computer systems while trying to get his new MacBook Pro up and running. Now taking a break to eat, unload the car, check in here... and give Vicki, Jim, and Tricia's ears a break.
PPPPHHHHUUUUUUCCKK!
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^^^^^
All of my notes for new routes, edits and corrections are ready to go for Monday (Ellen will type them up and I will go through multiple sets of edits and then post up).
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^^^^^
Ellen will type them up
then post up.
Where you from, Bitch?
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Where you from, Bitch?
You will be paying for this....
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JC on the Lido Deck of Quadruple Decker looking for cruise director Julie or maybe Isaac to get a drink! :lol: :biggrin: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4792/26864165738_52fc5ef228_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GVTSxm)
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The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Surprising and cool it went at 5.8. :thumbup:
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Second lead of Goliath:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4782/38928084670_137c067522_c.jpg)
Smiling pretty much ear to ear:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4777/38928085100_89a92bfbe7_c.jpg)
Finishing the class five, almost to the summit:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4778/38928086060_974ee97e13_c.jpg)
Would you trust a summit anchor simul-drilled by these two (hint: you probably already have):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4791/38928086610_66dd3c9688_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4786/38928087700_9d8b6e8b01_c.jpg)
On the summit of Goliath:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4791/26867141128_601e14f3ed_c.jpg)
Leading the first pitch of Quadruple Decker:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4796/40028132264_85b5dc4f7c_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4789/40028139174_a9ebfd429c_c.jpg)
Rappeling off the summit:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4781/40028147074_8c899ab614_c.jpg)
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Sweet! Jim made his climbing pic look harder than JC's. :) Also note that Jim is hammering with the wrong hand again. Who took the summit shot on Goliath?
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I thought that Jim guy was too busy climbing on the east side .
His bolt spacing looks adaquate.
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Who took the summit shot on Goliath?
Primrose
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4786/38928087700_9d8b6e8b01_c.jpg)
Looks like a "Who farted?" face to me :lol:
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nice color on the quad
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He should have pushed that bolt up a bit further
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You’ll be fine. Just don’t slip between clips. That ground is dreadfully hard.
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You’ll be fine. Just don’t slip between clips. That ground is dreadfully hard.
Probably he's harder though....
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He should have pushed that bolt up a bit further
The spacing is actually quite spread out. I have to say that I was glad to clip all three of those first pitch bolts and the bolt that Brad placed to get it started is very nicely situated to get through the lower crux on the worst rock. We were also trying to consider the follower. It's a cool climb. I think you would like it Mud. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Putting things in a more cohesive order. We didn't get a shot of Brad drilling the first bolt. :-\
He should have pushed that bolt up a bit further
The spacing is actually quite spread out. I have to say that I was glad to clip all three of those first pitch bolts and the bolt that Brad placed to get it started is very nicely situated to get through the lower crux on the worst rock. We were also trying to consider the follower. It's a cool climb. I think you would like it Mud. :thumbup: :biggrin:
Leading the first pitch of Quadruple Decker:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4796/40028132264_85b5dc4f7c_c.jpg)
You can see bolts 1 and 2 in the pic above.
This one is Jim drilling bolt 3 from an uncomfortable slabby stance. Knees bent and against the rock with no pads :yikes:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4789/40028139174_a9ebfd429c_c.jpg)
Jim came down after drilling the third bolt. We pulled the rope and I got to lead to the first deck to drill the midway anchor and finish the day.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4792/26864165738_52fc5ef228_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GVTSxm)
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...we didn't get a shot of Brad drilling the first bolt.
Yeah, 'cause you two were smart enough to be out of the sun, exploring other possible lines. You got your comupance an hour later though.
There's been over a third of an inch of rain down there today. A wonderful cleaning of all the drill dust and brushed off holds. Those two formations are gonna be pretty now ;)
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Yeah, 'cause you two were smart enough to be out of the sun, exploring other possible lines. You got your comupance an hour later though.
There's been over a third of an inch of rain down there today. A wonderful cleaning of all the drill dust and brushed off holds. Those two formations are gonna be pretty now ;)
Thank goodness you were tough enough to step up there and get things going.
I had it easy compared to you two. Sometimes it's okay to be last in line :ihih:
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...I had it easy compared to you two. Sometimes it's okay to be last in line :ihih:
Maybe.
I do recall that, of the three of us, you were the only one who had to stand there and drill while I drooled, exclaimed, laughed and rambled on about the wonderful holes above. That must have been difficult, a true hardship ::)
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That is a funny self description.
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Brief surprise after my Quest yesterday.
Pot o gold on the mighty Rift.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/39034223870_3524e540b0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22tjAPQ)
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Nice pic
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Nice pic
Thanks dude. Kat and I returned to the site today and finished the route I started Thursday.
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Man it was nice out there today. I feel lucky.
Got to hang out and climb with Gavin and Alacia and some young folks. (Kristen, Kimber and Nico sp?)
Also got to hike in with Brad, Katie, Hitch and Phoebe to the res.
Looking forward to more outings of a similar nature.
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Katie and her cousins high up at Pinnacles:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/793/40054291305_8a0e190815_c.jpg)
Hitch following Molar:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/797/40948342991_eaebe0e9a3_c.jpg)
(Can anyone see these photos? I'm not sure Flickr is working correctly on my new computer)
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Yes
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Is that a new bi-pattern Pinnacles rope?(as in New England black yellow Pinnacles model?)
Nice slingable feature by the way :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Is that a new bi-pattern Pinnacles rope?(as in New England black yellow Pinnacles model?)
Nice slingable feature by the way :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
Not a bi-pattern rope at all - that's just the difference between the part of the rope that's in the sun and the part that's not!
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I made my own bi-pattern rope. I put half in a box and the other half I left out in the sun for a couple of months. If anybody wants one just give me your rope. I might be able to speed up the process to 6 weeks by putting it in the window of my car. No charge.
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:)
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I made my own bi-pattern rope. I put half in a box and the other half I left out in the sun for a couple of months. If anybody wants one just give me your rope. I might be able to speed up the process to 6 weeks by putting it in the window of my car. No charge.
Hard pass. I have the new fluid rope :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Got up to The Bachelor today after Climber Coffee and took an alternate way to the summit that Brad told me about - thanks Brad! We would have done Young and Single too but the weather turned kooky - cold, windy and hailing. We'll have to go back. Hiked out with climberdude and got to stop and chat with T O Double D by the res.
Here's the new route and some pics
Things Not Rings 5.3
Move 35 feet west from the start of Young and Single and scramble 35 feet up a very low angle slab with patches of moss and dirt. At the top of the slab curve around left (south then southeast) for 25 feet and move up into a slot/chute. Follow along and then slightly down the chute until it is easy to climb to a shoulder and the first bolt. The bolt protects moves out, up, and left to a sub summit (exposed). From the top of the sub summit, lean over and clip the second bolt. From the second bolt, move left and slightly down to a knob (exposed). Step out left onto a cracked lodestone and big solid handholds which allow easy climbing to the anchor on Young and Single. Continue to the true summit if desired as for Young and Single.
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA date: 3-25-18
Drilling the first bolt
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/26150487267_4391a57739_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FQQ5N8)
Dark cloud that moved over while I was drilling
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/801/40979257212_97ab0c37b3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25rcpts)
Hail on Kat's pants at the belay - note to self - stand up when hail starts to keep from getting too wet
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/26150486947_66937927e6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FQQ5GB)
Hail in the chute below the first bolt stance - my heel is visible in the upper right corner
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/40979257012_0b909afa8c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25rcpq1)
Getting a second bolt in to gain the summit
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/793/26150486657_b48749c6e3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FQQ5BB)
Thanks again to Brad for the suggestion and also for that nicely equalized anchor :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Very nice! You found the LOLR for sure.
Those clouds sprinkled hard on us for ten minutes about 40 miles east of you (heading south on highway 41).
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Can you say “hail on Kat’s pants” three times fast?
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It was great to see JC and KC on Sunday at The Bachelor. I finished climbing all of the routes in The New World in the morning and was planning to go to the climbs at Rubble Wall when it started hailing very hard, so I hiked to the top of North Chalone Peak, which I had never done before. On the hike down, I heard some familiar voices from below me at the Bachelor. I hiked up to meet JC and KC as well as look at the new Young route. In the New World area, I particularly liked "Quadruple Decker", "Uncorked", "Goliath", and "Top Knot".
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Rope soloing Uncorked is. :)
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It was rad meeting you guys JC and Kc, Climber Dude. I gotta start exploring more of Pinnacles and check out some of the routes past the res. I’ve been stuck climbing the usual crags/routes too many times. We had a really good time top roping some harder routes for us at Upper Crust though. The cold sure made things challenging. My fingers went numb several times and it was hard to tell how good a hold was.
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We climbed Young and Single today.
I used that big plate at the end of the long shoulder to rig a directional for Kat's follow.
Afterwards, I bolted the water chute (not the groove) under the rappel. Really good rock and steep, fun climbing.
I'll write a description tamale.
Love 'Em and Leave 'Em 5.7*
Kat on the follow
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/869/40278983275_98079b2f39_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24njjqT)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/871/41130461892_1ef612b238_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25EynmG)
Me drilling the third bolt
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/40278982665_f9bd9c1435_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24njjfn)
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Looks like a good route (it looked like it when we rapped over it too).
Because of the late hour, and the surprise at the path the route was taking, I used that big (really big) plate too, to belay Hitch and Phoebe up so that they could help drill the second bolt.
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And again, nice name (although I certainly, certainly hope that you're not intending that as advice now are you?). ;)
I'm hoping it's dry enough after Saturday that I can get on these and the lines I haven't done at Rubble !!!!
(Rain rain go away....)
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Looks like a good route (it looked like it when we rapped over it too).
Because of the late hour, and the surprise at the path the route was taking, I used that big (really big) plate too, to belay Hitch and Phoebe up so that they could help drill the second bolt.
Edit:
I figured you had to have looked at it. I couldn't resist starting up it and then I couldn't stop.
Kind of reminds me of the climbing on Here's Mud In Your Eye - but with a wandering/puzzling nature.
After getting up to the shoulder, I wondered how Hitch and Phoebe followed without being scared silly at the swing potential after unclipping the first bolt.
I'm sure you told me that but I forgot. It was a good exercise in how not to screw your follower :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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And again, nice name (although I certainly, certainly hope that you're not intending that as advice now are you?). ;)
I'm hoping it's dry enough after Saturday that I can get on these and the lines I haven't done at Rubble !!!!
(Rain rain go away....)
Kat came up with the name after thinking about what bachelors do.
Agreed - no more rain!
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...I couldn't resist starting up it and then I couldn't stop.
And this is a new experience for you how? :o
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Here's the route description. The climb is borderline 2 stars.
Love ‘Em and Leave ‘Em 5.7* - start this route by making a few moves up the groove described in Young and Single. After a couple moves, reach right to a baseball-sized knob and move right and up to the first bolt. Two more bolts protect steep climbing up the wall/shallow chute. Exit the chute and continue up and right to reach the last bolt on Things Not Rings, finishing on that route.
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 4-1-18
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No wonder I am sore today :biggrin: :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/26319085507_0622e55aca_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G6Jcbk)
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I met some interesting characters the last couple days.
Wednesday I met Sergio. He was telling me about days climbing with Barbella, Jim (he, like others. calls him James) and some other mud masters. He said that over time his partners quit climbing or moved away and he gradually stopped. He said one of his last partners (Slate Williams) now lives in/near the Sierra. I immediately recognized the name - no doubt from perusing the SPH guidebook and the conversation went on from there. He wished me luck on the day when we got to the Rim Trail. I was fired up to replace some bolts but realized I could not do the job without someone to hold me in to the wall on the overhanging sections. I returned to the car, dumped all the rebolting gear and headed out to quest for mud. I only managed to get one bolt placed but it was a good feeling.
Yesterday I met an older guy on the trail. We got to talking and he asked where I was going. When I said where I was headed, he asked if I was headed to the Yaks. I could tell right away he was well acquainted with Pinns. I slowed down to share the walk with him and we talked all the way to the Res. He told me some cool stories and shared some other interesting stuff. One thing that really blew me away was him talking about climbing The Hand before Salathe had bolts or had cleaned up.
His name is Reb Monaco (pronounced Muh-knock-oh). Talking with him was the highlight of my day.
I met another guy on the way out - Glenn from Sports Basement. He was hiking up from the climber's access trail to The Hand/Frog. I asked if he had been climbing and he said yes. I asked where and he said Crud and Mud. I asked what routes he had climbed and he said all of 'em. Well, he hadn't quite climbed them all but it sounded like he got a nice sampling. He had the guidebook but was not familiar with this site. I clued him in and told him about the upcoming MoM. I was kicking myself for forgetting to mention that to Reb. I think both of them would enjoy meeting and jaw jabbering with the crew.
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sounds cool.
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Those do all sound like interesting people.
One thing that really blew me away was him talking about climbing The Hand before Salathe had bolts or had cleaned up.
How old was this guy? You might have had a super natural experience.
Sounds like a good birthday.
Edit: around what year was the salathe route retro-bolted?
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How old was this guy? You might have had a super natural experience.
Sounds like a good birthday.
Edit: around what year was the salathe route retro-bolted?
That thought crossed my mind. :idea:
73. That would make him 2 when the Salathe went up.
He says he tries to make it a point to get out and hike at Pinns once a month.
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It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.
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It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.
Edit:
Roper mentions all the bolts (1966). Hammack (below) mentions bolts in the future? and past tense but seemingly ambiguous (should be used, have been used). Nothing about a bolt on the 1st pitch traverse. :yikes:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/870/41241601572_a87495b626_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25QnZj5)
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I guess no one knows :biggrin:
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It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.
Me too.
I guess no one knows Big Grin
Someone knew. The suggestion of adding bolts is interesting.
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Me too.
Someone knew. The suggestion of adding bolts is interesting.
The wording in the Hammack guide is interesting. They refer to the use of bolts but never actually clearly say there are any.
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On a side note - it looks like the rain may have stopped for now.
I had fingers crossed yesterday when the percentage was 90 or 100 and it only actually tipped .03.
It dribbled a little in the evening (another .02) and then picked up around midnight and came down steadily all night - .4 more.
Sun is out now and hopefully it will dry enough to enable my quest to continue tomorrow.
I should be used to such uncertainty.
I have been used to it the last few years.
That being said, the Pinns can be quite the weather anomaly at times, indicating the use of caution when making plans.
It's always good to have a Plan B :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Did they place the bolts on lead or gasp....rappel?
We need to know.
I'm sure the rain helped the PO sprouting....
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I'm sure the rain helped the PO sprouting....
It doesn't need any help. Have you seen it lately?
About to swipe hands, face, ankles along a few narrow spots on the trail to the Res. :yikes:
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Did they place the bolts on lead or gasp....rappel?
Or in Knickers 'n Lace
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Or in Knickers 'n Lace
That was what they wore under their knickers.
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Just tryin' to figure out if John saw a ghost.
Maybe it was some kind of rap Boltin',knicker and lace wearin' kinda of ghost.
Scary.
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The way I read that article is that they established the route without bolts then on subsequent ascents added bolts.
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This is probably worth starting a new thread but it was also part of the ongoing Quest for Mud.
Brad and I just spent the last 3 days having an amazing time confirming some new routes and climbing some of the old ones and bonus - I got to replace some 50+ year old hardware. To me there is nothing better. Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
We spent a day at The Bachelor and another 2 at Rubble Wall.
One more trip out to Rubble and I'll have all the old hardware replaced.
I'll follow up with some pics in a bit. :biggrin:
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Brad is working on compiling and posting all the new routes. Here is a teaser in the interim.
Latest new route on The Bachelor - Disposable Income 5.8 - not sure about a star - pretty sure 4 of the people that climbed it (3 of them led it - me, Fletcher, Gavin) thought it was worthy and fun. Steep, sustained, interesting holds and thoughtful movement, really well protected. Wanders up much easier but somewhat exposed terrain along the LOLR after the last bolt. Single half inch bolt supplements a belay quality torpedo of rock at the top. Gavin liked it better than Love 'Em and Leave 'Em (which definitely gets a star). :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/26545465317_25cbc607cb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GrJs1v)
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...Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
Thanks for a very nice compliment. Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.
I am indeed working on new route descriptions in between real work. I'll also post up some photos as I can get to them at home.
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This is probably worth starting a new thread but it was also part of the ongoing Quest for Mud.
Brad and I just spent the last 3 days having an amazing time confirming some new routes and climbing some of the old ones and bonus - I got to replace some 50+ year old hardware. To me there is nothing better. Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
We spent a day at The Bachelor and another 2 at Rubble Wall.
One more trip out to Rubble and I'll have all the old hardware replaced.
I'll follow up with some pics in a bit. :biggrin:
Okay - here's some pics.
West Tooth (left) and Middle Tooth the way the FAists saw them in 1962
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/786/39608422480_4912193c9e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23m4w4S)
Brad took several shots of me climbing the wildly exposed chimney between West Tooth and Middle Tooth.
The one he took before I clipped the bolt is cool but the big jagged block in front of the notch (which you don't climb) makes it look like I am really close to the bottom of the notch (you can't see the bottom of the notch because of the jagged block). I managed to get a decent tricam placement in before going up and around the left side of the jagged block. The climbing to the notch isn't hard but it is exposed, virtually unprotected and there is a pile of big loose rocks sitting on the left that must be carefully avoided as you move around and up past the jagged block. Check out this action shot Brad got just after I had clipped the newly replaced bolt (I replaced all the West Tooth hardware the previous day).
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/802/39608421930_65f14a0913_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23m4vUo)
Higher up where you have to commit to one Tooth or the other.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/39608422300_f833bcf43f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23m4w1L)
The carriage bolt at the summit of Middle Tooth. The hanger is the thinnest metal I have ever seen on any homemade hanger. A Leeper hanger is 1/16 and this was about half as thick. Unbelievably flimsy.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/869/40702869864_ae6db23858_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/251LR9m)
The wire looked like a scrap of fine gauge solid electrical wire and there was a blade connector on the end (hard to see).
Notice that the wire and the hanger thickness are about the same (the wire may actually be thicker).
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/875/40702869624_72632c16ff_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/251LR5d)
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Thanks for a very nice compliment. Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.
Well deserved.
and thanks for the laugh :crazy:
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I am indeed working on new route descriptions in between real work. I'll also post up some photos as I can get to them at home.
I did some digging through the Rubble.
Smith brothers did all the original FA's. Bicuspid free, all others with prusik but they did not do the 4th Class Tooth.
According to both Roper and Richards, Bicuspid and Incisor were done 12-30-62 but The Teeth were done in 63 (year only given)
Furman brothers did the FFA's of West, Middle and Incisor 5 years later and clambered up the 4th class Tooth.
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that was a sketchy downclimb
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Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.
Too true.
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that was a sketchy downclimb
I can imagine but would rather not.
One false move and you would likely be dead after falling another 50+ feet depending on which side of the slot you tumbled out of after the initial fall.
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Baling for bailing.
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Hay!
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Baling for bailing.
Nice but nope.
The wire was for a film canister that Brad said he removed 20+ years ago.
The looped end held the canister.
Unfortunately the notes inside disintegrated.
Here is what was on the other summit (West Tooth). There were two stub pencils inside but no notes.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/40717354244_ffc5be04c2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25345R3)
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Brad said he has photos of the disintegrated notes. Maybe he can post those.
In the interim I went back to last year on this thread and grabbed the images he posted of his field notes.
Fun to read again - thanks again for digging those up dude.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2896/33592173436_97e8839491_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3783/33249409630_7443a92805_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3845/33249410940_2ac4bd57a3_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2866/33249411760_ffeeda19c5_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2929/33249412370_e9ae4cd5c1_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2822/33249413110_483a6f1811_b.jpg)
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That goldline (if it is even that) tat for rappelling looks bomber!
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No photos; my memory was wrong. I transcribed the summit entries as the paper disintegrated, and what you posted are my entire notes. (Thanks for doing that, I was just trying to find them myself.)
EDIT:
I would have had a film camera then and wouldn't have wasted the film for shots of old summit entries.
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that was a sketchy downclimb
Yes. We were younger then though....
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So my memory and my notes were that there was no hanger on that carriage bolt on top of Middle Tooth!? I made my notes within days of being up there and I'd forgotten the hanger already? Maybe I'd just disregarded it since it was so flimsy?
Probably best that I carry paper into the field now and make notes right then.
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Agent Orange at work replacing the old West Tooth hardware.
I was able to rework and use the original holes for the old single anchor bolt and the lead bolt. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/867/27564375218_3a1e1650bf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HZLCqA)
The replacement anchor :ihih:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/41436830111_0ed48346df_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/268CzXn)
Looking through the arch on West Tooth at Knuckle Ridge, Goat Rock, Scout and the High Peaks :idea:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/27564375728_d00169f78e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HZLCzo)
New Game. Toss rocks at the summit register rocks on Bicuspid to restore them to their previous look. :crazy:
Before
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/871/41436829921_97dc0325a4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/268CzU6)
After
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/27564375288_210667f49c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HZLCrN)
Or you could climb up there and change them again. This is the most unlikely and wildest 5.4 I know of at Pinnacles :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/36414134883_f281a0a909_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtMXDM)
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So my memory and my notes were that there was no hanger on that carriage bolt on top of Middle Tooth!? I made my notes within days of being up there and I'd forgotten the hanger already? Maybe I'd just disregarded it since it was so flimsy?
Per my conversation with J.C., I suspect that when I was up there the one carriage bolt had some sort of tat on it. I don't know how else I could have missed that flimsy little hanger. With some old webbing in the way, I would have noticed the bolt, but the hanger would have been covered up/hidden (and since I free soloed up there, I wouldn't have needed to dig around to thread the rope).
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I was able to rework and use the original holes for the old single anchor bolt and the lead bolt. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Unbelievable how good you've become at such re-use. Excellent!!
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^^^
Aren't your before/after shots of the rocks stacked on top of Bicuspid reversed?
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Per my conversation with J.C., I suspect that when I was up there the one carriage bolt had some sort of tat on it. I don't know how else I could have missed that flimsy little hanger. With some old webbing in the way, I would have noticed the bolt, but the hanger would have been covered up/hidden (and since I free soloed up there, I wouldn't have needed to dig around to thread the rope).
Maybe you were mesmerized by The Liver of Pinnacles :lol:
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^^^
Aren't your before/after shots of the rocks stacked on top of Bicuspid reversed?
Not if you're playing the new game correctly :biggrin:
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Not if you're playing the new game correctly :biggrin:
Alright, I get it: before means "now," and "after" means after someone has "won" the game.
I'm leaving now to get in on the action early....
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This is the most unlikely and wildest 5.4 I know of at Pinnacles :biggrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/40542641875_d6583a1ed0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24LBCWP)
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/40542641875_d6583a1ed0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24LBCWP)
I think that the most fun I had up there was belaying John's lead of Bicuspid. He quickly climbed the loose, unprotected, up and left part and then stood up on the pillar. Watching his body language (and a little bit of real language), during a 30 second span he went from:
- "No way, no way, no way this is 5.4," to
- "Hey, there's a huge right handhold," to
- "Oh, a great left handhold," and
- "There's a right foot smear," to
- First move, second move, one more move, and up.
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^^^^^^
Nice play by play.
It was definitely the highlight of my day and not something I will forget.
Once I found the hand holds and saw the left foot hold I knew I was gone - or I was a goner.
I appreciate looking at the picture much more now :thumbup: :biggrin:
Think beano can photoshop me in there? :idea:
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Glad you two enjoyed wild 5.4 play without me. :)
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Glad you two enjoyed wild 5.4 play without me. :)
Sorry bro-cephus. We can go back and climb them all again :yesnod: :biggrin: :yikes:
and speaking of foreplay - here is a butt cheek technique being employed to rest on said route :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/27567208348_d80f069e35_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J129BE)
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^^^^^^
Nice play by play.
It was definitely the highlight of my day and not something I will forget.
Once I found the hand holds and saw the left foot hold I knew I was gone - or I was a goner.
I appreciate looking at the picture much more now :thumbup: :biggrin:
Think beano can photoshop me in there? :idea:
I inspected that pillar - touched its opening moves - and it gave me the Slim Pickens willies. You're a better man than I am, J.C.
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I inspected that pillar - touched its opening moves - and it gave me the Slim Pickens willies. You're a better man than I am, J.C.
After about 3 awkward moves I gently grabbed a left hand hold that I could hear cracking - that gave me the willies. Once past that it is easy to the top of the pillar where you stand on tippy toes and it gets very interesting :thumbup: :biggrin: :devildevil:
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Climbed and replaced the bolts on Incisor today. Rubble Wall is complete! :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin: :yikes:
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Thanks for the work.
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Two best shots of the day.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/864/26592279837_ab1ea34fe2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GvSokp)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/810/26592280077_553c87bd75_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GvSopx)
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We could hear but not see climberdude down at Crud and Mud yesterday. We also saw his vehicle at parking and again in the parking lot for the 19th Hole on the road home. Hope you guys had a fun birthday celebration :blahblah: :guitar: :arf:
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I just wanted to share some info about Rubble Wall.
None of the OLD routes are for the faint of heart or the inexperienced Pinns climber.
Here is the stance for the only lead bolt on Incisor. Climbing past the bolt gets you into some serious runout.
This is another one of those no fall routes at Pinns. It will be getting an R in the new guidebook.
Falling from above the bolt as you climb the arete would likely result in one of three possibilities - A) land back on the bolt stance B) fall off the left side where there are lots of things to hit C) fall off the right side in a screamer and slam back in somewhere lower.
The good news is I found the rock to be quite nice in this upper section. It reminds me of the rock on the second pitch of Long In The Tooth although not quite as good. Rather than having cobbles, it is all matrix and the holds are pretty unique for Pinnacles. I haven't done a lot of climbs where weathering and erosion have sculpted the matrix into nice holds.
The route is exciting for the follower too - when they realize what can happen after they unclip the bolt to climb past it :yikes:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/40764496534_4248458ff1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/257dGB9)
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Thanks JC. My group had a great time climbing at Crud and Mud and also at the 19th Hole. Some even said they like this rock better than granite (she must have been on the more solid routes at Crud and Mud). I looked up towards Rubble Wall several times, but did not see any indications of people (you and KC) being there.
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and speaking of foreplay - here is a butt cheek technique being employed to rest on said route :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/27567208348_d80f069e35_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J129BE)
THE TICKLER!!
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^needs to rain a couple of times before more ascents.
This photo should have been in the caption this thread.
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Had fun with clink, Yosomighty and the 4H crew today at Crud and Mud - even though clink left my cinnamon roll on the kitchen counter at his house. :incazzato: :nono: :frown:
It was overcast, cool and windy. The kids tried their best to have fun for a while but the cold (temps hovered around 55) and windy conditions put a bit of a damper on things. We made the best of it. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Here's hoping the nice couple we met yesterday on the west side had fun today.
How was it Alex? Margaret?
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Great group again this year. I enjoyed listening to the commentary on the latest Avengers movie. They sure grew up a lot in one "short" year. :)
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Old Route 5.9
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41151161874_e5e0c6f644_c.jpg)
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Old Route 5.9
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41151161874_e5e0c6f644_c.jpg)
Old Dude, 59.
(Dude looks in better shape than route.)
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^^^ :lol:
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The Missing Screw Link.
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Foreplay rest....Jake went in sideways!!!
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Lobster Claw is done and rebolted.
I'll post more later.
Doodlin' Dody on the menu para mañana.
Happy Derby Day! :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Nothing can stop the Claw!
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Liar!
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Doodlin' Dody on the menu para mañana.
Turned out to be a no-go today but I will get to it soon. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Shifting this over since climberdude has been seriously questing for mud as of late :biggrin: :thumbup:
I did "Palisades Pinnacle - Northeast Face", "Palisades Pinnacle - East Face", "Monument", "Brittle Palace", "Tombstone - Regular Route", "Tombstone - Doc Holliday Direct" (scary), "Crumbing Castle - Regular Route" (scary), "Crumbling Castle - Original Route" (on top rope), and two variations of "Cave Pinnacle". I did not trust doing the Original Route of Crumbling Castle on lead because I could not find a good rope solo anchor at the base and the protection in the chimney is probably horrible, i.e., would not hold a fall. I looked at "Low Peaks", but will have to do that another day.
Nice dude.
I agree that any pro on that Original Route would not hold a fall and the fall would be really ugly. The rock didn't look good either. Both the Roper and Richards guide mention a piton being used in that section for aid. The chimney looks too wide to do much but stem and that looks really scary with no pro and the fall potential down the stepped chimney bottom - it just keeps going and going... :yikes:
Surprised you did Doc Holiday - that is essentially a solo. The rock looks pretty good from the bottom but none of the upper stuff past the bolt looks slingable. I seem to remember some holes in the face when I rapped from the 5.2 - maybe a tricam or two? I'll have to revisit that one. I also think that 5.2 should get an R.
Speaking of R - what did you think of Palisade? I thought the 5.5 felt closer to 5.6 and with the ground dropping away as you climb and the bulge at the top, it seemed like that should get an R too.
I did Cave Pinnacle one day with Brad. Goes up a slot kinda chimney thingy and it's pretty damn scary to touch the actual summit. I didn't stand on the actual summit because I didn't want to downclimb the huck move that would get you there.
Lots of PO back there.
I have looked at The Low Peaks a couple times. Kat's remark was - I don't want to belay you on that and I don't want to be here when you do it. Hmmmmm...
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Kat and I got shut down by some massive PO on the approach yesterday and the day turned into an exploratory one.
Not the first time that has happened and I'm sure it won't be the last.
On Saturday we climbed Lobster Claw and I replaced the old anchor and lead bolt.
Here is an overview of the route.
Slab moves to gear in a horizontal.
Pull a tricky bulge to a shoulder and run it out up easy slab to a second horizontal and the only protection bolt.
A fall from the easy slab will likely result in cratering.
Clip the bolt and figure out how to get to the summit.
Finding the LOLR at the lower and upper cruxes is tricky. I liked that.
Here's Kat tying in after I finished working on the route. I left the bolt clipped and one cam in the lower horizontal for directionals. I'm not big on giving away the secrets of route-solving (unless someone requests it) - suffice it to say that the climbing does not follow the way the rope is situated.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/40149003600_be0e0fff2a_c.jpg)
Here is part of the gear I placed in the first horizontal. I had one more bigger piece to the right.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/967/28084946608_8d98a4de73_c.jpg)
I placed a tricam in the second horizontal to back up the old bolt. That won't be necessary anymore. I didn't have anything big enough to stick in this nice hole along the runout (insert joke here). :lol: I'm not sure what might fit here (maybe a big tricam?) - being conservative, I'd say take gear to 2 inches for the route. I'm also not sure I'd want to block that hole since it made a pretty sweet hand and foot hold :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/41911503972_d6fb79a323_c.jpg)
Here is the replacement anchor.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/41056657235_2dda7f075f_c.jpg)
Working on the anchor
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/863/40149003490_5aff500a37_c.jpg)
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Nice work and nice report.
That gear looks pretty decent. With that gear and a new bolt, does it deserve an "R" rating?
...not the first time that has happened and I'm sure it won't be the last.
I don't want to use the wrong words here, so let me try these:
I know of a place you could climb where poison oak would never, ever be a factor....
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Nice work and nice report.
That gear looks pretty decent. With that gear and a new bolt, does it deserve an "R" rating?
Thanks.
It definitely doesn't deserve an R for the first crux with all the gear possibilities.
I thought that move felt about 5.6 if you figure out the LOLR (Kat agreed).
The really runout section felt easy to me and if you use all the biggest holds it might only be 5.4?
Again - you have to find the LOLR which may not be obvious to some, so it's kind of a tough call.
If some pro could go in that big hole and if it would hold a fall - that would negate the crater factor.
It would be nice if some other people led it and gave us feedback.
Kat had no interest in leading it. Maybe with something good in that big pocket she would.
She also had trouble near the top - may have been a reach issue or the nature of the moves and rock quality.
I'd be curious to see how others approach and execute the cruxes. You could definitely make it harder if you're not as sneaky as I am. :yesnod: :ihih:
I don't want to use the wrong words here, so let me try these:
I know of a place you could climb where poison oak would never, ever be a factor....
Point taken but it's not 90 minutes away and let's face it...I'm just a pinhead :lol:
P.S. - you said PO and Factor in the same sentence :out: :crazy: :arf:
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"Surprised you did Doc Holiday - that is essentially a solo. The rock looks pretty good from the bottom but none of the upper stuff past the bolt looks slingable. I seem to remember some holes in the face when I rapped from the 5.2 - maybe a tricam or two? I'll have to revisit that one. I also think that 5.2 should get an R."
Doc Holliday does have places and knobs for cams and slings, but do not expect anything but the bolt to hold a fall - just don't fall and you should be ok. Tombstone Regular has large knobs that can be slung or you can use an old-style 4.5 (modern BD 5) cam.
"Speaking of R - what did you think of Palisade? I thought the 5.5 felt closer to 5.6 and with the ground dropping away as you climb and the bulge at the top, it seemed like that should get an R too."
I thought that Palisade Pinnacle East Face was slightly harder than 5.5, but did not deserve a R. I got in a good cam between cobbles at the base of the headwall just before the bulge. In keeping with the original anchor location being further away from the notch, I did not place the anchor close to the lip, which would have allowed someone to clip it to closely protect the boulder move. Thus, the move is still an unprotected boulder move through the notch.
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In keeping with the original anchor location being further away from the notch, I did not place the anchor close to the lip, which would have allowed someone to clip it to closely protect the boulder move. Thus, the move is still an unprotected boulder move through the notch.
Nicely done!!
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Point taken but it's not 90 minutes away and...
Now you're just being mean to those of us who are geographically disadvantaged >:(
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Doc Holliday does have places and knobs for cams and slings, but do not expect anything but the bolt to hold a fall - just don't fall and you should be ok. Tombstone Regular has large knobs that can be slung or you can use an old-style 4.5 (modern BD 5) cam.
I thought that Palisade Pinnacle East Face was slightly harder than 5.5, but did not deserve a R. I got in a good cam between cobbles at the base of the headwall just before the bulge. In keeping with the original anchor location being further away from the notch, I did not place the anchor close to the lip, which would have allowed someone to clip it to closely protect the boulder move. Thus, the move is still an unprotected boulder move through the notch.
Always good to get another opinion. I could tell Doc Holiday was a no fall route. I did the 5.2 some years ago and thought it was R based on the way the ground drops away drastically (obscured by brush) as you traverse around to the right. I do recall breathing a sigh of relief after clipping the bolt and slinging a big knob past the bolt on the way to the summit.
I didn't take a rack since there was no mention of gear.
My notes say I slung a knob under the headwall on Palisade but thought climbing to there with no pro warranted an R. I had been climbing about 18 months when I did that one.
Nice work on keeping the anchor away from the route. :thumbup:
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That summit pic is cool, so are the gear placements.
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Clink picked up JC early this morning and they were going to meet Brad - I'm pretty sure they wanted to see what sort of trouble they could get in to while celebrating Clink's B-day!
Happy Birthday Clink - hope you guys had a fun day!
:thumbup: :guitar: :wink:
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Happy Bday!!!
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Happy birthday Clink. My birthday was last Friday and I spent it at Pinnacles. I cannot think of a better place to spend a birthday at.
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happy birthday!
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Happy birthday Clink!!!
:ciappa: :ciappa: :ciappa:
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Thanks everyone!
I was wondering what I was getting into today. Great day new routing with JC and Brad, and it was phenomenal quality, north facing rock! When I left JC was drilling at about 100 feet up and with what looked from where we were, another 20-30 feet to go. I left at 4:30 and looking back at the vantage point of the reservoir, JC looked to have another 100 feet to go. They will probably finish tomorrow with KC (she is joining them tonight at the campground.) Can't wait to get the report.
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JC,
There are two ways to get to the top of Cave Pinnacle, one that is fourth class and one that I would characterize as very easy fifth class. It sounds like you and Brad did the very easy fifth class way that is on the right. I carefully read the route description in Roper's 1966 guidebook as well as Brad's 2007 guidebook, both of which seem to describe the route on the left that leads all the way to the top as fourth class climbing. There is a variation route on the right that goes up from a ledge below the cave up a ramp with a dihedral/crack on the left. The ramp ends below the summit and then you do a scary and very exposed huck move on mossy rock to the top. I also did this variation route, but felt it was harder than fourth class. Roper's description of the Cave Pinnacle route describes the bottom as being very loose. I felt that the left route had a very loose bottom section but the right route did not have any loose sections on it.
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Next May Climberdude.
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Isn’t it getting warm there??
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Thanks everyone!
I was wondering what I was getting into today. Great day new routing with JC and Brad, and it was phenomenal quality, north facing rock! When I left JC was drilling at about 100 feet up and with what looked from where we were, another 20-30 feet to go. I left at 4:30 and looking back at the vantage point of the reservoir, JC looked to have another 100 feet to go. They will probably finish tomorrow with KC (she is joining them tonight at the campground.) Can't wait to get the report.
What kind of a birthday wretch posts photos of new routes at Pinnacles on Supertopo... but not on Mudn'Crud?
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^^^
We finished two routes. They share a start and then continue 103 and 95 feet to separate anchors. Both are 5.7* (and I'll get full descriptions up soon)**.
Two great days.
And Clink, you forgot your comb at the base.
** We all know though that the routes won't really be finished until Climberdude repeats them ;D ;)
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What kind of a birthday wretch posts photos of new routes at Pinnacles on Supertopo... but not on Mudn'Crud?
Yes, i am guilty. I posses the simple and easy technology to post photos from my phone directly to Munge's "The Power of Choss Compels You" thread. Anyone is welcome to repost them here.
JC will hog tie me at some point and my technological skills will be forcibly upgraded.
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And Clink, you forgot your comb at the base.
That comb is for Cookilocks. For the above visor thatch.
Where are the bad bolts pics? Hairy Potheads and the Half Placed Bolt.
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JC will hog tie me at some point and my technological skills will be forcibly upgraded.
Justified. And I'll help him.
It's not about technological skills (even I can post photos here). You're just being lazy.
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That comb is for Cookilocks. For the above visor thatch.
Where are the bad bolts pics? Hairy Potheads and the Half Placed Bolt.
I didn't actually have a camera with. You'll have to wait until he returns from his additional bolt replacement work later today.
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That comb is for Cookilocks. For the above visor thatch.
Where are the bad bolts pics? Hairy Potheads and the Half Placed Bolt.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/974/42038594332_d6e158693c_c.jpg)
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Well it can be a good bolt IF it one of them long ones.
If a short, it would slow you down.
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Well it can be a good bolt IF it one of them long ones.
If a short, it would slow you down.
I have two lengths in my rebolt pile of old 3/8 inch split shafts.
The 2 1 /2 inch bolt has a 1 1/2 inch split portion.
The 3 1/2 inch bolt has a 1 3/4 inch split portion.
The bolt pictured is the longer version, so there is probably slightly less than an inch and a half in the rock.
Both bolts we found on this old abandoned route were underdrilled between one half and 1 inch.
The thing I find interesting is the corrosion pattern. Why does the top part of the threaded end look almost new?
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JC drills the last bolt on Endeavor to Persevere
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/28212487918_3f61699666_c.jpg)
JC's 1st attempt at a stance for drilling the crux bolt on Whistlin' Dixie
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/28212488238_9dcf0bd26c_c.jpg)
Brad stems into the crux on Whistlin' Dixie
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/27215104187_b034cfb399_c.jpg)
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Both John and Kathy were climbing in pants and/or shorts that had visible patches. Wicked cool.
I so admired their patches that I'm going to try something new: wearing some clothes with patches. Vicki's doing some sewing right now - including sewing on some patches for me. Oh, and patches for my climbing pack's lid too.
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JC,
There are two ways to get to the top of Cave Pinnacle, one that is fourth class and one that I would characterize as very easy fifth class. It sounds like you and Brad did the very easy fifth class way that is on the right. I carefully read the route description in Roper's 1966 guidebook as well as Brad's 2007 guidebook, both of which seem to describe the route on the left that leads all the way to the top as fourth class climbing. There is a variation route on the right that goes up from a ledge below the cave up a ramp with a dihedral/crack on the left. The ramp ends below the summit and then you do a scary and very exposed huck move on mossy rock to the top. I also did this variation route, but felt it was harder than fourth class. Roper's description of the Cave Pinnacle route describes the bottom as being very loose. I felt that the left route had a very loose bottom section but the right route did not have any loose sections on it.
Thanks dude. The class 4 designation can be tricky. I discovered that yesterday at Doodlin' Dody. I either went up a new way or simply found an alternate way OR I went the intended way. Regardless, I stood on top of that thing. There may be two other ways to get there but the first one I looked at seemed about 5.9 and the other possibility I did not check out because I decided to try it another way. Launching into that, I found myself committed and it actually felt class 4 (after an exposed mantle move I did not want to try and reverse). For the second section, I would have liked to have one big cam (probably a #4) but of course I didn't have anything that big. The 5.9-looking boulder move would probably take a #2 camalot. All I had was some medium-sized stuff to do the 5.7 route. Ironically, I only ended up using a yellow alien on that route. The second larger placement on the 5.7 would have required climbing into some hideous looking rock to access the higher portion of the crack.
We had a friend stop in before climbing the class 4. He or she is sitting right on top of the crack that looked like one way to boulder up but it's completely undercut with a serious lack of footholds. A left hand jam and a knob on the right might allow a power move akin to Old Route. Left of the crack is a boulder that I did not step up on to explore the face above. That may be another way up. I think I got too focused on the crack. Morale of the story?
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/959/42087860221_f79eaac9dc_c.jpg)
On the summit of Doodlin' Dody South Pinnacle Class Four. I mantled onto the shelf and then climbed the wide crack.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/973/27218581227_9570486bcb_c.jpg)
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We had a friend stop in before climbing the class 4.
Caleb, blushing in a new overcoat?
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KC got right on the sharp end on Friday. Here she is breaking bad on the crux of Endeavor to Persevere 5.7d* :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/960/41370331264_1f1162c4b4_z.jpg)
John and Brad later in the day at the anchor after finishing Whistlin' Dixie 5.7a*
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/905/41370331154_3fce4bb990_c.jpg)
Brad took off for home after we finished Whistlin' Dixie. Meanwhile, Kat and I went over to Old Route so I could get some proper chains on the replacement anchor. The old bolt was just too damn cool not to leave and incorporate in with the new bolt.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/969/28216776688_0247d70418_c.jpg)
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The photo of Kathy is a little fuzzy, but great nonetheless. She did an excellent lead on that route (patches and all).
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The photo of Kathy is a little fuzzy, but great nonetheless. She did an excellent lead on that route (patches and all).
Yes and you are photobombing :yesnod: :lol:
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It would be cool to hang on a rope on either of those routes and take pictures of folks leading through the cruxes :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Our latest adventure. Doodlin' Dody.
The normal approach is completely choked out with Poison Oak.
Here is a picture taken from below Casino Rock, just past the switchback near the Don Genaro waterfall overlook.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/40284825510_0802658ffa_c.jpg)
Here is a photo topo made from zooming in on the previous picture. You can see the drill dust from the bolt replacements.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/40284825660_69a719791e_z.jpg)
Disclaimer and warning - it looks like the pinnacle is not that tall.
This is a very tall pinnacle. A major portion of the downhill side is obscured by the nature of this downhill view and the brush. When you start down the notch on a skinny fin to gain easier access to the slab, the exposure is immediate.
Above the first bulge, a crumbly-looking stance gets you to a fixed stopper in a small slot.
Someone evidently fixed this piece and bailed, leaving an oval carabiner on it - likely years ago when they couldn't find the bolts or possibly freaked out from the rock quality. :yikes:
Unfortunately I did not have a nut tool, so I gave the stopper a good yank and it was fixed solid. It was a small nut turned sideways - maybe 5 or 6? on the BD scale (I should have taken a picture) and the wire was thinner than any nut I own. There wasn't enough room in the slot to place anything else, so I said Vaya con Dios (no one actually says that) and clipped the piece with a long runner. I had also clipped my yellow alien with a long runner. Moving out to the next stance completed the zag in my zig-zag and I was now set up for the hopeless rope drag. I don't think 4 foot runners would have made a difference. Maybe 6 or 8 foot runners. I have to wonder if the first ascent party didn't belay from the first bolt - that would absolutely work.
Kat had been asking me the whole time if I saw any bolts.
Here is the most current route description: Move up and left past 2 bolts and over 2 bulges. It is possible to use small gear to supplement the bolts. The summit anchor is very old.
Well...that was 2 bulges so far and no bolts. When I got to the next stance, I saw the 2 old bolts - 4 feet apart on the final, filthy, lichen-covered, loose slab. Sounds exciting huh? :yesnod: :out: :crazy:
That second bolt was clearly placed by hanging on the first one.
I clipped the first old bolt and stepped up. You would think I would know better and would have pulled more slack into the system. The rope drag was so bad I almost didn't make it to the 2nd bolt (4 feet away).
I struggled past the second bolt screaming for slack the whole time (what a maroon!) - Kat kept yelling back that I had slack. One more dicey pull to get enough slack to move and I made it to a rest stance. From there I pulled out more slack to make the final run to the top. When I got to the top, I told Kat " that was harder than a sustained 10a!" In retrospect I should have just pulled out 20 feet of slack before trying to climb past the bolts.
Once at the summit, I rested a bit before starting the chore of replacing the anchor.
When the anchor was done, I belayed Kat up and then rapped down and replaced both lead bolts in their original holes.
The second lead bolt came out with my fingers after applying the tuning fork :yikes:
Here's the old anchor. (I left it for the sake of history)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/27223472437_9dc7f74523_z.jpg)
The new anchor.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/41373982534_596dae00d6_z.jpg)
The replaced lead bolts - close enough to be photographed together while hanging from the rope
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/948/41373982664_0a7b4b6565_z.jpg)
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Thanks for leaving the somewhat unique anchor and doing the restoration work.
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Thanks for leaving the somewhat unique anchor and doing the restoration work.
You know it dude. The anchor wasn't in a good location to reuse the hole.
There also seems to be a contingent that likes to see some of the old stuff left for posterity.
If anyone leads the route they will be very glad to see the replacement modern hardware.
The FA party cut the pointy ends off the nails on the star dryvins. Not sure why.
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Cool pic of the Condor.
Nice looking route.
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Here are the old lead bolts from Doodlin' Dody.
The one with the shorter nail was the top bolt that slid out with fingers after driving the tuning fork under it. :yikes:
Notice the pointy ends of the nails are cut off both of them. Different hangers too.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/976/28260245208_656f9b0d2c_z.jpg)
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^^^
Keep up your good work and we won't have any reason to be afraid at Pinnacles anymore (well, sorta).
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^^^
Keep up your good work and we won't have any reason to be afraid at Pinnacles anymore (well, sorta).
Fear the Walking Mud :thumbup: :biggrin:
I think the best we can hope for on a lot of the old routes is to get a feeling of security similar to what the first ascentionists may have experienced when they finally placed a bolt.
Of course that usually only happens after you've nearly soiled yourself :yesnod: :nonod: :out: :crazy: :redface:
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...that usually only happens after you've nearly soiled yourself
Reminds me of the time Forrest and I retreated from twelve pitches up the Pacific Ocean Wall in a storm...
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Cutting the points off of the nails makes sense....that little point might split the whole rock...
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Here are the old lead bolts from Doodlin' Dody.
The one with the shorter nail was the top bolt that slid out with fingers after driving the tuning fork under it. :yikes:
Notice the pointy ends of the nails are cut off both of them. Different hangers too.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/976/28260245208_656f9b0d2c_z.jpg)
Shazbat!
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I think the best we can hope for on a lot of the old routes is to get a feeling of security similar to what the first ascentionists may have experienced when they finally placed a bolt.
Just think they had no sticky rubber climbing shoes, cams, passive pro, modern harnesses, super stretchy ropes, and most likely used a hip belay.
Notice the pointy ends of the nails are cut off both of them. Different hangers too.
Makin' shorties.
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I spent the day yesterday torquing bolts on 3 routes (22 bolts total) and putting the final touches on the new routes we did last week. I removed the old split shafts and patched the holes from the abandoned route (dubbed Hairy Pothead and the Half Drilled Bolts) by clink. If we lived in olden times he would be clink the Clever.
Here is the upper bolt they used to bail from.
You can just barely see the split showing from this angle (there is a little debris in the spllt).
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/40365614750_2e926a3965_z.jpg)
Here is another view from the opposite side and you can see how bad the surface and cratering was.
I noticed that the end of the stud was a bit bunged up but the nut came off without a problem and I was able to remove the hanger and the tat and get the puller tool situated.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/972/40365614930_fc2816b81d_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/42172666611_ea9d6b676c_z.jpg)
After a couple turns there was a fairly loud pop and the bolt slid out/fell out with no more wrenching.
Here is how much of the bolt was actually in the rock.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/978/42172666821_c16c55b8f1_z.jpg)
I pulled the lower bolt in the same fashion and there was no pop. Just a few turns and the bolt fell out.
Just for fun I checked the hole depths before patching them and neither of the bolts was under-driven.
Why did they drill such shallow holes?
Why did they abandon the route?
Some things aren't meant to be known.
One thing is for sure. There are now two really fun, long, well protected routes on good rock below Old Route. Old Route is also well worth doing - the moves are fun and the rock is really good.
I added chains to the anchor for Endeavor to Persevere.
When I was done with Crocodile Crag I went over to The Love Handles and torqued all the bolts on Muffin Top.
If you haven't done Muffin Top - take a walk over next time you're at the Sisters and give the holds a squeeze :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
Here is the tallest Crocodile Snout. I noticed there are some excellent views of the routes on The Hatchet and Ridge Rock from the anchors for the new climbs. It would be a good spot to get photos of someone climbing either of those routes.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/40365614520_e15bd8d4b7_z.jpg)
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Bolt looked good, except the threads.
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Bolt looked good, except the threads.
I hung on it - but no bouncy bouncy (for beanolar) :lol:
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I like the spacing on those bolts!!!!
John u must have 9 lives for all the bounce tests on crud that you've survived...
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Hey, did you do The Overlook?!
Yes and it was fun. On the way back we climbed down and into/through the tree where the 4th class section is. The ledge starts right there. We also did Chamber of Secrets and N Goal Post Shortcut (the short version). :ihih:
Kat follows the ramp on The Overlook. Hidden Pinnacle is in the center in the background. It may become Lost Pinnacle one day when the tree falls.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/905/41335820815_5489ec0466_z.jpg)
From the Overlook we could see the dude. The dude abides.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/952/27366030927_b3f31d70e2_z.jpg)
And later in the day I did my favorite type of climbing...(part 1 The Chamber of Secrets)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/41335820365_c78e1cd465_z.jpg)
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curious, why remove the abandoned bolts/patch?
(maybe it was posted elsewhere and I didn't see it?)
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curious, why remove the abandoned bolts/patch?
(maybe it was posted elsewhere and I didn't see it?)
My view is that it's no different than cleaning up litter; junk that is now definitely going to remain unused (J.C. did the removal, but both of us agreed while we are doing the new routes that it was the correct thing to do).
Does that make sense?
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curious, why remove the abandoned bolts/patch?
Eminent Domain. No, the two half drilled bolts (with possibly slung knobs) and the second bolt had bail tat slung on it, were abandoned and crisscrossed what continued into two separate routes. The first route went to the right of the first bolt and split left of the second bolt up a face. The seond route shares the first 30(?) feet then continues past the old second bolt placement over a bulge to the top.
We did find a large comb buried in the dirt at the base. The first group there may have been more interested in being photogenic than drilling bolts to depth and finishing routes.
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My view is that it's no different than cleaning up litter; junk that is now definitely going to remain unused (J.C. did the removal, but both of us agreed while we are doing the new routes that it was the correct thing to do).
Does that make sense?
Was looking for the particular reason on this route, not the general reason. Picking up someone or some entity's things after a period of time is not objectionable, per se, but as a pattern I would like to know why on each route. For example I wouldn't want someone removing my Ridge Rock lead bolts just because it doesn't look like it has been sent. A proper reason might be because my bolts go up and into a concave face with pink rotten rock above that is overlaid with a layer of moss with other signs of ascent. Pulling old bolts and patching them over (even though they look highly suspect) can hide a history of someone's interest in a high difficulty ascent, perhaps ground up, perhaps by pure stance.
JC's post doesn't give the details. Probably because he's very familiar with it already and has seen the reasons. Those of us behind a monitor haven't. :)
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Eminent Domain. No, the two half drilled bolts (with possibly slung knobs) and the second bolt had bail tat slung on it, were abandoned and crisscrossed what continued into two separate routes. The first route went to the right of the first bolt and split left of the second bolt up a face. The seond route shares the first 30(?) feet then continues past the old second bolt placement over a bulge to the top.
We did find a large comb buried in the dirt at the base. The first group there may have been more interested in being photogenic than drilling bolts to depth and finishing routes.
Thx Clink! Figured it was proto-selfie soloist behavior! ;)
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My post was referring to Endeavor to Persevere.
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Those of us behind a monitor haven't. :)
You weren't behind a monitor yesterday!
While checking my time for the two mile yesterday I noticed that the next male 50 to 59 finisher was over 15 minutes behind me!? In two miles. You had a pretty good time though. Fun event.
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Someday soon I'll be taking a pass.
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You weren't behind a monitor yesterday!
While checking my time for the two mile yesterday I noticed that the next male 50 to 59 finisher was over 15 minutes behind me!? In two miles. You had a pretty good time though. Fun event.
I had a horrible "time" but had a good time just showing up and.getting it done.
Last year I got first in my age group for that distance. This year work and allergies are taking a toll.
Off to work again tmrw. No Mud session. :(
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Cuxluv came out yesterday and led Whistlin' Dixie :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/874/41693784744_eed06efc88_z.jpg)
beano followed...
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/878/28543577928_d71a867446_z.jpg)
...while Kat and I hung out with this munchkin - baby beano aka Kim-bear
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/28543577538_4a732e07ce_z.jpg)
Kat charged up Whistlin' Dixie on a mission. :ihih: :arf:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/885/28543577498_46b1d19084_z.jpg)
Nice job ladies!!! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Nice routes John. Now I see where all these bruises came from!!
Thanks for the haul, Kathy aka my teenage mom. And Lisa for the lead.
Kimbo appreciated the free ride (me too! <3 TR).
Poundin back a cold one
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20180527_095925_zpsusoypqaw.jpg)
Nap time
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20180527_124019_zpsvlzrmxjr.jpg)
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Such a great day and fun route!
But I will always refer to it as "Bloody Rail" since KC and I both shed some. :)
Looking forward to next time!
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Such a great day and fun route!
But I will always refer to it as "Bloody Rail" since KC and I both shed some. :)
Looking forward to next time!
Hold it! I think I just heard Crux volunteer to help with an FA. She's even got a name for the route already picked out!!
Hey Crux, what's your November look like for some Pinns climbing?
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Thanks for the haul, Kathy aka my teenage mom.
Poundin back a cold one
You have to look close to see the munchkin has a bottle :biggrin:
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Hey guys
This count?
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That sure looks like real efforts at developing the bouldering at Pinns!
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Hold it! I think I just heard Crux volunteer to help with an FA. She's even got a name for the route already picked out!!
Hey Crux, what's your November look like for some Pinns climbing?
Second half is wide open!
The Pinnacles bug has bitten deep and hard. :)
Hopefully it won't heal during the hot and dry summer months.
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The Pinnacles bug has bitten deep and hard. :)
Hopefully it won't heal during the hot and dry summer months.
Personally, I'll be relying on J.C.'s summertime Pinnacles posts to keep that bug alive while it's dormant.
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:thumbup:
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I am anxiously awaiting the first eaten by flies post.
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I am anxiously awaiting the first eaten by flies post.
He'll tough it out.
Damn, just as I started typing Vicki yelled at me from the back deck. We watched a really beautiful bear amble across the back yard (I might be a little deaf for a few minutes from all that barking by our girls though).
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He'll tough it out.
Damn, just as I started typing Vicki yelled at me from the back deck. We watched a really beautiful bear amble across the back yard (I might be a little deaf for a few minutes from all that barking by our girls though).
Just grin and bear it.
Sorry this is late but I was at Pinns all day working and just got back.
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I think my dog would have been hiding in the back room
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Just grin and bear it.
That's an interesting philosophy, "grin and bear it." With that type of calm, reasoned outlook, you should advise and counsel people, help them calm their lives too. In short, you should be a Yogi.
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In short, you should be a Yogi.
Heeeey Boo Boo...do I see a pickynick baskit??
(ha...maybe I should put this in the route names thread...)
;D
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That's an interesting philosophy, "grin and bear it." With that type of calm, reasoned outlook, you should advise and counsel people, help them calm their lives too. In short, you should be a Yogi.
It's gettin' deep in here.
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An evil fairy must have moved the cursor on my NWS forecast map. We nearly melted over the weekend but still managed to have a good time overall. On Saturday we met Edward and Aimee on the east side and took them out for a day of mentoring. We got them both on the sharp end at the Sisters even though it was only their second time outside. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: They both did great and we got in a fair amount of climbing, ending the day with a run up First Sister Center Route.
We spent the evening with Glenn and his group from Sports Basement. Glenn cooked some really tasty pasta for the group.
Speaking of cooking, we were up early Sunday and all headed out to Crud and Mud. While the group was getting their lines set up, Kat and I decided to go explore a couple previously eyed lines. The one we ended up climbing was one I had scrambled up a long time ago to the point where I felt threatened and backed off. I geared up and climbed back to that high point and placed a bolt. Above that, the water chute became low angle and I stretched it out to explore the upper portion. The face to the right looked interesting (although very contrived) and I stepped out to test some of the big, enticing knobs. Every one I touched was hideously loose - ready to come off and big enough to kill a belayer (the mine field). I backed off and continued up the chute. The easy chute ended at a tree and the last thing I wanted to do was create another route that forces climbers to fight through a tree. I placed one more bolt to allow passage left and up - and then into the grassy gully that leads to the Shoo Fly/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. The route provides the easiest? way to the middle summit of Crud and Mud. Placing the second bolt, I tried to be especially mindful to keep as far away as possible from the line that defines Shoo Fly Slab's last run and hopefully be invisible while climbing that route.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/42511190092_d7453b9d2f_z.jpg)
Mud, Sweat and Veers 5.0? - This casual romp provides another easy way to the Middle Summit of Crud and Mud and/or the Shoo Fly Slab/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. I didn't think it was as fun or as difficult as Summer of Mud. It ends at the base of the low-angle water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent. From that point, the true summit and the rappel anchor are visible and easily accessible by scrambling.
Start Mud, Sweat and Veers at a point 8 feet up and across the corridor from the start of Mud Diamond. Climb up the obvious water groove to a short, steeper section and the first bolt. Above the bolt, the water groove becomes low angle. Follow the water groove until upward progress is most easily achieved by veering left and up to a second bolt. Climb straight up past the second bolt toward a large knob, where it becomes possible to veer right and into a large grassy gully. Belay using excellent body position from the base of the water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent, 120 feet from the start. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 6-3-18
We went back and hung around with the group until Pay Dirt went into the shade. Kat led that to cap the day. NICE! :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
We packed up and bid farewell to the group - It was 102 on the hike out. We saw rescues for hikers suffering heat exhaustion being performed both days - by helicopter on Saturday. :yikes: :out:
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I changed the length on Mud, Sweat and Veers to 120 feet after Dave and I climbed it again yesterday.
We had 2 nice days out. Day 1 we finished the rebolt on Pinch or Lynch Reg Rte and climbed Pipsqueak Reg Rte and then Dave TR'ed a line a little left of Rightfoot.
Yesterday we spent the day at Crud and Mud climbing Squeaky Clean Mud, Mud, Sweat and Veers, put a bolt on a new route and finished with a run up Call of the Crud and Summer of Mud. Dave is an old buddy of mine that lives down south and makes the effort to come and visit once a year. We always have a good time and get in a little adventure. This was the 3rd year and his 3rd time climbing. Thanks for comin' up buddy! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/27804515807_6fb49d3ce2_c.jpg)
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I need topos! ;)
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JC, you are a glutton for punishment - climbing in 102 oF weather! It's time to head to the G-word areas.
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Negatory dude.
Besides, I have a reputation to keep up! :lol:
Only supposed to be in the high 70's to low 80's this weekend.
I want to climb Pinch and Lynch and work on the new route - plus I still have my eye on Heffalump and Flip-A-Coin :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Kat and I climbed Pinch or Lynch Regular Route on Saturday.
It is a long route (120 feet) - about 50 feet of gear climbing followed by 3 widely spaced bolts on 70 more feet of slabby climbing.
Getting it started
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/28864381268_b3c340dd0a_c.jpg)
Higher up there is a committing traverse past the first bolt.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/27868907627_9d16d5820c_c.jpg)
Kat cleaning the last piece of gear. She said she enjoyed the lower part of the climb the most.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/27868907747_0db1dbae0b_c.jpg)
Contemplating the slabby moves past the last bolt
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/28864381428_8cd75fdf75_c.jpg)
After we finished at Pinch or Lynch we hiked up to the Outhouse. I had originally planned to go get something new started but it was later than we anticipated, so Kat led Can You Spare a Square? and we called it.
Yesterday I got two more bolts in the steep route I started with Dave on Thursday at Crud and Mud. Kat climbed up to the high point and really liked it. It is steep and fun so far and looks good above. I think it can be finished in one more outing.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/27868907447_859c0241fc_c.jpg)
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A closeup of the previous pic where it looks like I am stancing.
I am hanging from two opposing slung knobs on the sides with 2 lazy daisies plus a tricam in at my waist :ihih:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/41841415085_95dd749297_b.jpg)
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And one more for clink since I can't quit thinking about getting back out to finish this line.
I put an X at bolt 3 and of course the upper part has mucho foreshortening and also looks way lower angle than it actually is :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/28868088058_807a4cba86_b.jpg)
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Great Pix JC, but do you have any in higher res? It's kinda hard to photoshop celebrities into them at their current resolution. :'( >:( :o
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Great Pix JC, but do you have any in higher res? It's kinda hard to photoshop celebrities into them at their current resolution. :'( >:( :o
No need to photoshop, celebrities are already present ;)
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Well Brad, I am a humble person.
But if asked I'd sign a guidebook.
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We got out and finished the route at Crud and Mud yesterday. The weather was perfect for mid-June. I actually asked for my sweatshirt while belaying clink. clink stepped right up and led past my 3rd bolt, got into a staggered stance and reached high to drill bolt 4. The route continued to yield some pretty outrageous holds. Anticipating one more bolt and maybe the ability to drill it purely from stance, we pulled the rope and I led up and past clink’s bolt to the next stance. It was steep and solid and I was really close to the top. I seriously considered climbing through. Resisting the urge, I settled in and got one more bolt in to protect the exit moves. I climbed through and onto an easy slope above and discussed the anchor location with clink and Kat. They directed me to the perfect location and I placed an anchor bolt. clink followed and placed the 2nd anchor bolt while I belayed Kat’s follow. Another great day!
Here is a photo topo of the route and the route description – plus a few other added bonuses.
Foreshortening makes the upper 2 bolts appear closer than they are. Your feet will be a couple feet above each bolt on lead. The stances are pretty juicy – enjoy! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/41049005950_3d8bd2c37d_b.jpg)
clink drills bolt 4
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/41049006230_bf9489bf87_b.jpg)
JC drilling bolt 5
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1824/28987049948_ac5881e8ac_c.jpg)
JC tops it out
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/28987049798_366c34f8a6_c.jpg)
end of another great experience
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/27991185957_47d2c34200_c.jpg)
Here is the route description. I stuck in a couple extra protection details for climberdude.
Mud Brother 5.7** - Mud Brother is the prominent water chute about 40 feet downhill from Ashes the Mud and I. The climbing up the chute is steep and varied - on an interesting selection of solid holds (reminiscent of Squeaky Clean Mud without the lower angle upper section). Start by traversing down and across the apron of rock about 20 feet downhill from Ashes the Mud and I. The traverse is very easy but there is some significant exposure. The first bolt on Ashes the Mud and I can be used to anchor the belayer. Once at the base of the chute, step up on a big lodestone and clip the first bolt. Tricky moves lead to the closely-spaced second bolt (a pink tricam between lodestones and a hook were used to place the 2nd bolt). Move past the second bolt up and onto a large, light-colored lodestone (sandy bottom). There is a red tricam placement in a hole at your waist before bolt 3. Reach high for the third bolt and move up. The flake prior to the 4th bolt can be carefully avoided using more solid holds. A few final, steep, fun moves lead to one more bolt and the exit onto very low angle terrain and the two-bolt anchor with chains (up and left). An easy rappel returns you to the start.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook, Dave Stahl
FA Date: 6-16-18
I’d like to dedicate this climb to Brad Young (my brother from another mudder :lol:). Brad has been and continues to be an instrumental influence on my climbing, an exceptional friend and a great mentor. Over the past few years, Brad helped me do many scary, old Pinnacles routes that I probably never would have done otherwise – and we did them as safely as possible. Brad encouraged me to get started with first ascents and inspired me to “pass it on” to the younger folks in our climbing community. Here’s mud in your eye brother! :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Almost forgot this one.
Good times dude :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1769/42811785542_c86820c80a_c.jpg)
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JC drilling bolt 5
It was great to watch you stance drill #5 and redpoint the FA. Pure fun route! Don't blow the second clip or you will do the one bounce.
once the stemming corner cleans up it will be more secure.
As we discussed climberdude should change his handle to climberbeast.
Almost forgot this one.
Good times dude :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
Cheers JC and KC, the best times!
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...resisting the urge, I settled in and got one more bolt in to protect the exit moves
Who are you and what have you done with our friend?
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I am trying to come up with some clever comment or rejoinder to your dedication. I can't though, I'm at a total loss for words.
Thank you.
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Cheers JC and KC, the best times!
Thanks for joining the fun Clink. What JC did not say about the climb yesterday, but I will - it was #500!
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I'm at a total loss for words.
Who are you and what have you done with our friend?
Ditto. :lol:
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Good Times
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...I'm at a total loss for words.
Admittedly this is not a common occurrence ::)
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Thanks for joining the fun Clink. What JC did not say about the climb yesterday, but I will - it was #500!
I've been thinking about how to comment about this. The obvious is bland: congratulations!
Not bland is the fact that John now has done 500 routes at Pinnacles in good style, in six Goddamn years. Is this dedication? Or fanaticism? Both? Insanity or steady-minded perseverance (definitely both on this one)?
Mix in somewhere around 200 old, crusty bolts that he has now replaced with modern hardware and I'd say he's making himself quite at home at this wonderful place.
Amazing. And totally admirable.
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Congratulations on 500!
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Not bland is the fact that John now has done 500 routes at Pinnacles in good style, in six Goddamn years. Is this dedication? Or fanaticism? Both? Insanity or steady-minded perseverance (definitely both on this one)?
Well said.
Amazing. And totally admirable.
True.
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JC and Brad as babies, were dropped on their heads and then in both cases, the poor infants continued to fall down a flight of stairs. While the flight of stairs JC fell down was quite long, the one Brad fell down was longer and continued into a busy street where he was also run over by a mule. The good news was that the mule was found by it's owner soon after.
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JC and Brad as babies, were dropped on their heads and then in both cases, the poor infants continued to fall down a flight of stairs. While the flight of stairs JC fell down was quite long, the one Brad fell down was longer and continued into a busy street where he was also run over by a mule. The good news was that the mule was found by it's owner soon after.
One of the things that's obvious on this site: I am completely surrounded by freaks.
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I've got an idea for J.C.:
600 by 60!
It's got a nice ring to it doesn't it?
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JC and Brad as babies, were dropped on their heads and then in both cases, the poor infants continued to fall down a flight of stairs. While the flight of stairs JC fell down was quite long, the one Brad fell down was longer and continued into a busy street where he was also run over by a mule. The good news was that the mule was found by it's owner soon after.
clink the clever strikes again :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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I've got an idea for J.C.:
600 by 60!
It's got a nice ring to it doesn't it?
That definitely is not happening but I agree it has a nice ring.
I wish all my mud brothers could have been on the recent FA but as is quite normal in my life, the timing was wrong.
I do appreciate all the help and support from everyone over the years.
Should we start a reality show for what so many consider the off season? Pinnacles - from NOT to HOT :idea: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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One of the things that's obvious on this site: I am completely surrounded by freaks.
Brad, your non-bland congratulation contained the words; dedication, fanaticism, insanity, steady-minded, and perseverance. I have heard moments of fanaticism and insanity, and even extreme dedication and perseverance in a normal person attributed to or dismissed by the statement, "Don't mind him, he was dropped on his head as a baby". This excuses a degree of abnormality in a "normal" person. I was simply trying to expand this metaphor to represent an honest quantification of your own and JC's abnormality.
I have climbed a few Pinnacles X/R routes that I felt fortunate to survive and hope to never relive that experience. You two have climbed so many of these.
The Mastery of Insanity
This is so far beyond my capability that I run out of comprehension...
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so does this thread work for talking about how are day was at pinns?
if not, apologies in advance...
... the heat is on! been to the park 5 times in the last 8 days. its getting hotter :(
took my mother to the east side for some hiking yesterday. she doesnt do well with heat but insisted she wanted to "have a real hike." looking at the forecast, i suggested that we could head up condor gulch to the high peaks before noon, and come down the HP trail back to bear gulch. i warned her full well to expect temps in the upper eighties/low nineties by the time we summitted.
planned worked great. with all the uphill behind us we casualy leap frogged from shade to shade. she saw condors. and a western whiptail lizard!
after some beer and a picnic, she abandoned me at bear gulch like a good mother.. but i had a trick up my sleeve.
my girlfriend megan was scheduled to meet me "somewhere around tiburcios x" where i would be top rope soloing until her arival with the full rack ;)
i didnt get fifty feet from the parking lot before turning around and seeing her show up!
despite the clock reading 4pm, it was still in the upper 80's... 6 hours of high peaks hiking and 24oz of lagunitas invoked a feeling of lethargy.
"screw it i need to lead rat race anyway."
we also toproped rat face and set a directional on the 5.9 hand crack to the right. that one is atrocious! 0/10 would not lead.
after so much fun, i was determined to finally lead coyote ugly... so we hiked up there with each step growing heavier and heavier.... upon finaly arriving to the reservior i elected to lie down for a quick nap in the gravel.
i snored.
15 minutes later, a boost of energy got me up, but a stumbling step indicated i might be too tired.
"you dont have to lead this right now..."
"but im ready!"
but tired is tired. the mind was willing but the body was weak.
maybe this afternoon...
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Yes, there was a tradition for use to always lead rat race at the end of the day.
I thought it was Beer Gulch?
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Yes, there was a tradition for use to always lead rat race at the end of the day.
I thought it was Beer Gulch?
The two uh youse?
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Well as I proceeded to Hardman status the day with joe ended with pickpocket.
Still Rat Race is a fun one.
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5.9 hand crack to the right. that one is atrocious! 0/10 would not lead.
ATDS! lol
Pinns in the summer, buahahahaha. Ya'll are nuts. No thx.
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It's that time again boys and girls :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1891/44658860671_f672841600_z.jpg)
You might think from the way the rope is running there is a bolt in there somewhere. Wrong! :yikes:
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I thought the tradition was to solo Rat Race at the end of the day.
Yes, there was a tradition for us to always lead rat race at the end of the day.
I thought it was Beer Gulch?
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It's that time again boys and girls :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
Woohooooooo!!!! Ready!
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I thought the tradition was to solo Rat Race at the end of the day.
That was POD
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Some shots from yesterday
Greeted by this little fella on the way in - beep beep :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1894/42888505510_fbc9dabc0b_z.jpg)
and this big fella once we got started on the quest
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1889/42888506880_cfb14594b0_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1877/42888505830_e146ef99fd_z.jpg)
Now a couple obligatory climbing shots - some sinewy stemming to place the first piece (on the third pitch)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1900/44697744271_d5b1932647_z.jpg)
Shift over, sling a knob and move along
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1848/44697745731_fb658a406b_z.jpg)
Grovel your way along moss, dirt and imaginary pro (love the shadow :yesnod:)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1847/44697744531_7b45dd7a2a_z.jpg)
Now enjoy a monster of a summit with some hoopin' and hollerin'
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/42888506600_96f6f1e7b4_z.jpg)
Or two
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1875/44697744101_e703785d8c_z.jpg)
and some bodacious views along with the knowledge that you NEVER have to do this route again (unless you really want to) :lol:
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Nice. Cool you were able to get a shot of the road runner!
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Nice. Cool you were able to get a shot of the road runner!
Cheers to no longer having to climb on weekends (unless we want to) :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :arf:
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Best to buy a place in Soledad….shorten the new commute.
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Best to buy a place in Soledad….shorten the new commute.
I've tried to pitch that in the past. No sale. :lol:
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Don’t you 2x need to relocate to a place with a golf course near by.
Isn’t that what retired folk do?
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Don’t you 2x need to relocate to a place with a golf course near by.
Isn’t that what retired folk do?
We already live a block away from one - but the beach is just as close and free - so we go there instead.
Great whale and dolphin watching today on a long walk - perfect temps and just a light breeze/flat seas :lol:
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Rubble is just a hop away from the Frog
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Rubble is just a hop away from the Frog
Bam...Bam...Bam Bam Bam :idea: :smilewinkgrin:
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Bingo?
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Kat finally emerging from the depths and almost into the sunlight last Monday.
clink has promised me some adventure Sunday
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1920/44258735724_bcb3603010_z.jpg)
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No cred for the small tool.
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No cred for the small tool.
Don't fret clink - I still consider you one of the biggest tools I know! :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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Fun day with clink on the crud - although we had to cut it short - got 4 bolts in on a new project (two apiece).
Weather was very nice.
Met a couple nice folks at parking today - Henry and Sarah - and showed them around a bit - they were gettin' after it :biggrin: :thumbup:
Sports Basement crew was at Crud n Mud.
Here's fresh mud in your eye :arf:
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Wait that was feather canyon...did you heed my gear beta?
-gear to 6ft
-6 pack of tecate
I some how can imagine that my critical beta will be ignored in the next guide.
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Wait that was feather canyon...did you heed my gear beta?
-gear to 6ft
-6 pack of tecate
I some how can imagine that my critical beta will be ignored in the next guide.
Not feather - new routes to be announced soon. :smile5:
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Ribbit and Croak
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Not feather - new routes to be announced soon. :smile5:
Nice to see a pic of Kat (and your shadow) on one of my new routes... Hopefully I can get a party of people checking out additions to the area on the PCAD weekend!
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Trying to triangulate... is the new route on Teapot? Ball?
edit: wsit isnt that chaos crag directly behind you? hm.... no thats not it...
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Trying to triangulate... is the new route on Teapot? Ball?
edit: wsit isnt that chaos crag directly behind you? hm.... no thats not it...
Hey Zay -
The route is a new 5.7 I bolted in the past couple of months, at Spike's Peak. In total there are now 6 new routes at Spike's Peak that I've put up, with help from briham, JC (for the Little Javelina anchors), and others. The routes are 5.4, 5.7, 5.8, two at 5.10a, and one at 5.11a/b, with a few projects still unfinished. Yeah, I've been busy!
During the PCAD weekend I'll be hiking up to Spike's Peak with Brad Young - and hopefully other folks! - to climb the routes, and I'm guessing Brad will post details on the routes here at M 'n C after that. But IMO the lines are good, with two of the lines (a 5.10a and the 5.11) outstanding (and the other 5.10a pretty excellent too).
Send me a PM and I can give you more details.
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Was out for some shenanigans with clink today.
Ribbit and Croak now exists. I told clink he jinxed it with the name. The route was hopping along just fine and then we decided to squash it. Somehow I kept getting suckered in by the holds and then got myself marooned on a very large lodestone - past an awful section that I was not about to downclimb. That is where we decided the anchor should go and the route should end. I drilled to exhaustion and we called it a day after clink joined me. Pics tamale.
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Might be worth continuing to the right lane, from bolt 6 through the rappel line and up that ramp. Or not. Nice job keeping it together and stance drilling the red point JC.
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But IMO the lines are good, with two of the lines (a 5.10a and the 5.11) outstanding
Yep :yesnod: :ihih:
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Might be worth continuing to the right lane, from bolt 6 through the rappel line and up that ramp. Or not. Nice job keeping it together and stance drilling the red point JC.
I still think we should go up and left from the anchor to the summit. Don't see how it could be any worse than what we've already been through :rolleyes: :yesnod: :lol:
JC moves toward bolt 4 on the redpoint of Ribbit and Croak 5.6R
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1965/45185775581_5019d9310a_z.jpg)
Stuck on the big lodestone and looking at a nasty turn in every direction (after a lot of traversing) - time for an anchor.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1906/45185775621_f2d84aa421_z.jpg)
clink follows for the win?! :crazy: :arf:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1961/45185775281_2e34423f6d_z.jpg)
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Kat and I had quite the adventure today climbing one of the oldest routes in the park. I'll post a couple pics and give a few more details later. Here's a hint...Toot Toot :rolleyes: :lol:
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My outing with clink got cancelled this morning so I am left to overshare with you crudders.
Kat and I went back out to Tugboat yesterday with the hope of bagging the summit. I read every description in every guidebook. They all say to start on the same side (the left side) which we knew was impossible, since we scouted the formation back in 2013 and discovered an unlikely, loose, filthy start completely choked with PO. It was time to take another look. I looked on Google Earth and the right side of the formation looked clear. I also referred to Bruce’s rebolting post from 2012 for additional clues. I remembered Bruce telling me that Clint led a face (about 50 feet of 5.2) to get on deck. I also remembered Bruce saying the upper groove was scary. I was determined to get up this thing. It looks so cool from a distance and it is one of the oldest routes in the park. Roper speculated the FA was 1962 and Richards (the old guide I like the most) said 1956. Richards describes the upper groove as sinister looking. :ihih:
We found our way up the hillside, managing to avoid just a few leafless sprigs of PO down low. The hillside is clear but particularly annoying in terms of steepness, looseness (lots of scree and dirt) and groundcover that fills your socks and boots with hitchhikers. The right side is sunny this time of year so we had no time to waste (a predicted high of 88 turned out to be 90 when we checked later).
I found what looked like a reasonable start and stepped on. It was relatively easy but awkward right at the start. The sloping nature of the multiple decks and all the loose material on the surface makes you immediately aware of disastrous consequences and of course no meaningful pro – not to mention the length of time a rescue would take out there. Its Pinnacles – get over it.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1901/31576237358_17e3df7182_z.jpg)
Up and up I went, at times feeling like I was hiking up loose gravel and wishing I didn’t have climbing shoes on.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1934/30510913997_40804801c5_z.jpg)
I stopped and looked back down to Kat just before I went out of sight - probably still 40 feet from the belay. I’d estimate the first pitch at 95 feet (kind of reminded me of Ball Pinnacle).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1934/30510913927_3402c3112b_z.jpg)
I looked up to see evidence of the last party bailing off.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1902/30510913667_fe445d9a5e_z.jpg)
When I got to the belay I realized that the belay bolt Bruce describes can actually be paired with the first lead bolt for a 2 bolt belay. The 2 bolts are only about 6 feet apart. The belay bolt is on the flat ledge and the first lead bolt is very low on the wall above.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1587.msg19192;topicseen#msg19192
Why did that party bail? No guidebook mentions more than 2 bolts. The 2nd lead bolt cannot be seen from below. Maybe they got up there, saw the two bolts and thought - no way I’m climbing up this thing unprotected. I think the other thing that happens at Pinns is people go looking for a climb strictly based on the grade. I talked to a kid one day that casually said he was going to do Knifeblade... :idea:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1950/31576238218_237d9147a5_z.jpg)
I belayed Kat up through the kitty litter nonsense and got set up to lead pitch 2.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1921/30510914697_076d2cce2c_z.jpg)
This is when you realize that the first lead bolt is way too low and way too far left – did they aid the start? (it was late 50’s or early 60’s). Aiding doesn't seem likely since the bolt is so far left but latch onto the starting holds and step into it and it is game on for a long series of steep, thin moves. There is a big lodestone above that looks like a thank God hold(it's not) as you claw your way through the 5.6(not) crux. Sling a knob and move up to the 2nd bolt – which also seems to be in a weird location (too low). There are a couple potential big cam placements (2 to 4 inches?) above bolt 2 but the climbing has eased considerably and you’re not that far from the bolt. Exposed moves on good rock get you to the top of the chute where you can sling a bomber knob for the exit moves.
Looking down from the cozy slot above bolt 2
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1962/30510913807_a3baae1e02_z.jpg)
Bomber sling knob for the exit moves
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1945/31576237968_96e7bd10c5_z.jpg)
The bolts really don’t protect the hardest moves other than to keep you from going all the way (another possible indicator of aiding?). Another old, no-fall Pinnacles route – shocking! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :lol:
It’s old school cool.
Kat followed and we got down as quickly as we could (it was hot).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1978/30510913577_bc1f5e43a4_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/30510914267_ff66c287ef_z.jpg)
Now slide, slip and cuss your way back to staging in climbing shoes. Pack up and ski scree back to the shade. We snacked, hydrated and then enjoyed some autumn leaves(PO of course) on our way into the wonderful coolness of the caves.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1960/30510913497_43b0f08a05_z.jpg)
We stopped by the Chalone winery on our way out for tasting and our thrice yearly member pickup.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/31576237728_ed8504d6c7_z.jpg)
Here is a photo topo and an updated but wordy description for the climb.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1948/30510913297_0d25c5da39_z.jpg)
Tugboat 5.7
Approach – weave up through relatively clear areas shortly after the formation comes into view from the Old Pinnacles trail (a short distance past/north of the junction of the Balconies Cliff trail and Old Pinnacles trail).
Start climbing (3rd or 4th class) up the southwest side from a plant-covered ledge about 50 feet uphill from the toe (see photo topo). Surmount multiple “decks” to reach a belay 95 feet from the start. A bolt at your feet and one low on the wall above (the first lead bolt) provide a belay and protection for starting pitch 2. Climb up the steep chute to a second bolt (cannot be seen from below) that protects the easier, upper section of the chute. Medium to large cams (2 to 4 inches) can be used to supplement the 2nd bolt. A large sling knob protects the exit moves. Scramble another 40 feet to the anchor on the backside lip of the formation (cannot be seen from below). Rappel 85 feet to the ground. There is currently no poison oak on this side of the formation.
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While you were climbing quality Pinnacles rock, I was repeating your stuff at Ay Chihuahua (after redpointing my project and picking up my rope and gear for the winter).
It was nice in the sun at 8,000 feet.
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While you were climbing quality Pinnacles rock, I was repeating your stuff at Ay Chihuahua
¿Has aprobado
Bow wow :lol:
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We were nailed by the 24hr stomach flu. Glad I didn't infect the Cooks. Martha is feeling better today thankfully, her birthday!
JC, any date ideas for Master Of Mud?
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When is the poison oak planting?
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We were nailed by the 24hr stomach flu. Glad I didn't infect the Cooks. Martha is feeling better today thankfully, her birthday!
JC, any date ideas for Master Of Mud?
Master of Mud starts Friday, April 5th through Sunday, April 7th. Group camp site booked - plan to celebrate JC's Big 60 (which is on Friday)! ;D >:D
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¿Has aprobado
Bow wow :lol:
¿Porque no hablas
¿No entiendes
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Damn that is during quarter end for me.
I’ll get a site or 2 the 3rd weekend in April
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Damn that is during quarter end for me.
I’ll get a site or 2 the 3rd weekend in April
Don't even play that card... - I had to listen to that for 16 years! :madmax: :madman: :incazzato: :lol:
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¿Porque no hablas
¿No entiendes
Silencio?
Es impossible! :lol:
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When is the poison oak planting?
Right after the PO bath :rolleyes: :yikes:
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JC,
I just heard this song and instantly thought you would appreciate it:
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I will have to work on the poison oak seeding this winter...
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JC,
I just heard this song and instantly thought you would appreciate it:
I'd give it no stars but thanks for thinking of me - pretty weak musically and lyrically - like some lame Zappa wanna be :lol:
Maybe we should have a PO appreciation thread :nonod: :eeeek: :crying: :crazy:
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How many Meanderthals does it take to make reservations on recreation.org?
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recreation.org
Ever been to the site, painful.
Clink, you in on planting more Poisen Oak this winter?
It will help the erosion.
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clink needs to make sure and plant some extra beans in his saddle bags or he's going to feel terribly left out around the fire.
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F4, Mj,and LEFH we are checking out the Clear Creek area this weekend. Permits are required for access to the serpentine area. Will give a report on what we find.
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Cool!!
We have wine pressing on Saturday and then bottling on Sunday.
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You spelled bolting wrong.
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F4, Mj,and LEFH we are checking out the Clear Creek area this weekend. Permits are required for access to the serpentine area. Will give a report on what we find.
Paranoia is also required. Be afraid. Be very afraid.
We'll do our best not to inhale :lol:
We'll shudder from the heat, look for minerals among the hydrothermal deposits, caress the state rock (serpentinite damnit!), reminisce about the good old days (environmentally) and contribute to climate change both on the trail and around the campfire...er...ring.
Got my hand lens and rock hammer ready :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Nice to hang out for mealtimes and around the propane campfire with the Cooks.
The hand lens was cool.
The Tootacabra is real and smelly and lurking nearby!
I was surprised Clear Creek had a steady flow. We paid our permit fee online and called on the way for the gate code. Rock hounding along the creek was great, especially with JC(The geology teacher) along. Hiking Goat mountain was stiff(We earned our beer) but great views. Looking forward to more camping/geology trips.
Johnny's first guess of JC's age was 83 :) Other than that his math skills were good for a seven year old.
Johnny was coughing some,
JC asks "Do you smoke?"
Johnny- "No."
JC- "Well, you should, you already have the cough."
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We took Gloria road back. Johnny crashed hard for an hour. First thing when he got home was to hop on his bike(which he just learned to ride) for 15 minutes before coming in to finish off the Mac n' cheese leftovers from camping. KC told us about how the drool inducing casserole form of the dish is prepared.
Nose in Oats, for the name dude.
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Clink, all that matters is did you find gold.
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Clink, all that matters is did you find gold.
No gold there - only the mercury to refine it. Lots of asbestos and overzealous regulations by raging environmentalists.
On the other hand - you could look for Tiburcio's treasure and there were several X's in the sky created by criss-crossing of the numerous con trails :lol:
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Tubercios treasure is under the monolith.
That’s why they brought the condors back....to guard it.
Yes, my buddy who used to take me out that way said “not good for riding when dry due to the asbestos.
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Yes, my buddy who used to take me out that way said “not good for riding when dry due to the asbestos.
The good news is the type of asbestos in the area is chrysotile. The bad stuff is crocidolite.
If anyone is interested - here is part of a scientific article with some eye opening stats and no axe to grind..
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1978/43820403180_458f3cfe2a_z.jpg)
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Well, we just need to know where the gold is, that's all that matters.
I am 100% convinced Tuburcio's Treasure is in the Monument.
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Quest for mud?
Tiburcio’s treasure IS the monument!
Heard you got the strap off. Bike riding? The world is your oyster!
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Tiburcio’s treasure IS the monument!
Exactly.
Although it's been a PARK for over five years now.
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M O N U M E N T
You are dead to me for such travesty! Park, pft.
;D
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M O N U M E N T
You are dead to me for such travesty! Park, pft.
;D
Joshua Tree National Park since what, 1992?
Should we head back down to the Monument?
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Omg! Monument!!!! Heh
Which one? At this rate were going to see the 4 presidents in granite.
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It will always be a monument to me.
Yes Munge, I can ride my bike and do almost everything.
Climbing end of December.
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Waiting to see if Ethan and his crew post some pics from yesterday. They had a fancy camera rig. We sent them up to start at Spikes Peak and suggested they wander past Burgundy and toward the Sponge for sunset.
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Clink, all that matters is did you find gold.
You folks need to go to the source for buried Pinnacles gold!
https://www.thewritersdrawer.net/joaquins-gold.html
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Say there Bob, I don't suppose you have a map to the treasure???
Might have to make one and let JC/Clink find it....
To me, it's the East Side.....they even a built a road to move the treasure.
Maybe its in/under the bear gulch reservoir....why else was it built for.
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Treasure map in the works...
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Kat and I added the second pitch to Ribbit and Croak yesterday and topped out. We saw Mark Seelos (MudMittens) in the parking lot and he got to listen to Kat and me playing the Bickersons on the climb (he was climbing at the Hand)
It was a tough day with the sun coming around sooner than the two previous outings with clink (damn time change).
By the time I got to the first pitch anchor, the sun was roasting me. I decided it would be best to get the first bolt in on p2 so when Kat came up I could get going and she wouldn't have to hang at the belay as long. It was a good thing I did! The only decent rock I could find had me overextended to the point I could not grip the drill holder but only turn it with my fingertips. On tiptoes, spread out awkwardly and twisted, I struggled for what seemed like forever to get the first bolt in. It was after 1:00 when I finished the bolt. Long story short, it kicked my arse. Kat followed p1 and we got reorganized at the belay (it is easier utilized as a hanging belay if you do pitch 2). Before Kat came up, I removed the temporary rappel hardware clink and I left when we finished p1 and I put chains and proper screwlinks on the anchor. Now if someone just wants to lead p1 and rappel...they can. :yikes:
If someone wants to go climb it, be my guest. :devildevil: clink congratulated me on leading the first pitch again without injury. :ihih:
With the possible exception of the first bolt, it is very much in keeping with other Frog routes.
The starting boulder (see route description below).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1961/43918396460_bbcf0921ce_z.jpg)
Stance for bolt 2, pitch 2. How bout those scary looking flakes? :yesnod: :yikes:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/43918396570_6fd1216890_z.jpg)
Approximate photo topo for both pitches showing the two bolt midway anchor and the 2nd and 3rd lead bolts on p2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4810/45736032941_e6a85bd1cb_z.jpg)
And what TR would be complete without this? Pretty nifty reflection eh?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4854/43918396670_549fbe5a16_z.jpg)
Ribbit and Croak 5.6R
Starts about 50 feet left of Getch Getchy Bird on the west face of The Frog. Step off a big boulder and climb the face up and a little left to bolt 1. Continue up and a little left to bolt 2, then start traversing up and right to bolts 3 and 4. Climb up from bolt 4 toward the large overhang above. Duck under/into the right edge of the overhang and then make committing, runout moves out and onto the slab on the right – make a few more moves to reach bolt 5. Traverse right to bolts 6 and 7. There is a big, hollow, unstable? scab past bolt 7 with two medium-sized lodestones next to each other. These provide footholds and allow careful passage across the hollow scab and onto a dirty slab. Move up the slab to a big lodestone and climb onto the lodestone to reach the two-bolt anchor with chains – 110 feet from the start. Rappel 70 feet to the ground or continue up pitch 2.
FA Date 10-7-18, FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran
Pitch 2 – clip the first bolt (out left of the anchor) and step over an easy overhang, onto an exposed stance. Make committing moves up and slightly left to bolt 2. Climb to a third bolt about 25 feet higher. From the 3rd bolt, continue up a few moves and escape out right onto class four terrain - then meander to the summit (topping out below the left side/north end of the summit block, 65 feet from the start). Scramble down the opposite/east side 20 feet (class two) and belay from flat ground (no summit anchor). Walk off South Side Shuffle and around the south end of the formation.
FA Date 11-4-18, FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook
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That route fits the MOM t shirt description well. I ran into Brian and Whitney yesterday at the Corralitos Market. they had been on a biking session at the Demonstration Forest I believe. Brian was wearing one of those shirts that Noal printed up.
Fitting the reflection of Birdbrain in the last pic. :)
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That route fits the MOM t shirt description well.
Fitting the reflection of Birdbrain in the last pic. :)
Watch it! :lol: :crazy: :prrr:
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If someone wants to go climb it, be my guest.
Yeah, I'll give it a go. Soon, I suspect.
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I suspect.
Yes. classification being not "a", but explicitly "the Usual"
Pinnacles has a fair number of Road Kill routes, a few of the climbers over the years have developed a taste for carrion.
:)
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Pinnacles has a fair number of Road Kill routes, a few of the climbers over the years have developed a taste for carrion.
I go where the rock leads me. This one is good until it isn't. Then it is mainly a matter of knowing how to find and use the best holds and avoid the bad stuff. The route finding is tricky and the runouts will get your full attention. Bob and weave, steady the nerves, repeat. I am so glad we did the 2nd pitch since it actually gets better again and results in a decent finish. Probably should have waited a year and called p2 Frozen Chicken :nonod: :out: :lol:
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Yeah, I'll give it a go. Soon, I suspect.
My suggestion would be to finish your route with Larry. Kat and I can go up and climb to the true summit of The Frog and maybe replace the bolt on Getch Getchy Bird while you guys work. Then you and Larry can climb Ribbit and Croak while Kat and I do the second ascent. We can cuss at each other from the respective routes - though I imagine most of the foul language will be heard my way. :rolleyes: :crazy: :arf:
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Then you and Larry can climb Ribbit and Croak
I changed what's left of my mind. I think briham would be a better partner for the route :out: :lol:
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We can cuss at each other from the respective routes - though I imagine most of the foul language will be heard my way. :rolleyes: :crazy: :arf:
That's a very odd thing to say. The whole climbing community knows that I do not cuss.
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That's a very odd thing to say. The whole combing community knows that I do not cuss.
Alright Mr. Swearengen - now fix your hair! >:D
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That's a very odd thing to say. The whole combing community knows that I do not cuss.
I thought I was part of the brushing community? :ihih:
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I thought I was part of the brushing community? :ihih:
Don’t forget to brush your tooth.
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That's a very odd thing to say. The whole climbing bing community knows that I do not cuss.
Bing Bing Bing Richochet Rabbit :biggrin: :lol:
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Bing Bing Bing Richochet Rabbit :biggrin: :lol:
Cold as hell today in the shade at 6,500 feet. Worth it though. And what's with this dark at 5:30 crap [edit: stuff - I DO NOT cuss]?
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Crap for crap's sake. Now cut the crap Bing ??? :idea: :arf:
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Cold as hell today in the shade at 6,500 feet.
This elevation doesn't seem to fit a Pinnacles Mud thread.
And a second infraction
Cold as hell today. I DO NOT cuss
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4619/39077527395_09470a8315_z.jpg)
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Cold as hell today in the shade at 6,500 feet.
Cold again today at 6,500 feet.
But the Views! Plus it counts as a work day - I was climbing with my business partner Jennifer. Two new routes, both 50 feet high:
- Butter 5.8 *
- Scotch 5.5 *
(She wanted to name the crag after our dogs - all three are red - so Red Dogs Slab, and hers is named Butterscotch.)
Now, enough of this granite close to home nonsense. Pinnacles season starts this weekend. Looking forward to it.
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Cold again today at 6,500 feet.
Here we go again... :madmax: :incazzato: :madman: :ciappa:
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We went to the west side with the Raisin Snails yesterday. We started at Chockstone Dome, taking turns leading Walk the Plank. It was a little smoky when we got there and the smoke was supposed to get worse around 4:00 pm. By the time we finished having fun on the dome it was already getting bad. beano got on lead for the first time since she had the baby 15 months ago.
beano leading The Big Bad West. That haze you see is smoke. It was pretty bad but not quite enough to chase us out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4911/45780560242_2d3be05a9f_z.jpg)
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Thanks for taking us out cookies, and enduring the squeals of the wee beanito. Leading feels much easier with 15 lbs less. Maybe I can start loading up with gear, or bolts ha ha ha
I can think of some routes that I'd like to fill in with more bolts!!!! :) :) :)
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It was fun to watch beanito try to mimic the adults. And to see she inherited mom's preference for slabs, stems (chimneys!!), and photogenic expressions.
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20181110_150500_zpsc4kk7le8.jpg)
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20181110_153233_zpsbyq1f3lc.jpg)
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20181110_155443_zpsr12btfdd.jpg)
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Brings back memories of my older girls when they were that age on the Westside. :)
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Pinnacles water makes them strong!!!
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I just had a fantastic three days at the place that we all love, the last two with J.C. and K.C.
I'm pretty much into Pinnacles season now. I even talked with Jim a few minutes ago about finishing a project he started down there in 1985! Let's go Jim ::)
Got to climb some cool new routes on Monday.
Lonesome Me is fun and so is Fixtures. Crumble and Tumble was a no-go.
Didgeridoo adds a bit more value to the area (I'm sure Brad is working furiously on the new routes thread).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1936/45155940444_5b79bcdc51_z.jpg)
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...I'm sure Brad is working furiously on the new routes thread.
Those damn fence posts still mystify me. Half a mile of thick brush from anywhere that anyone might ever have used a fencepost in or near Pinnacles.
No fury here. At least regarding getting the new routes described so far. Instead I've been unbelievably busy on real work. One staff member (my secretary) has a badly broken finger and is typing at two-thirds speed. Another is taking care of a very frail, elderly mother and had to take a few emergency days off (we actually encourage her in this: family really, really matters). Then there is Jennifer, one of my two business partners. She seemed to think that last evening would be a fine one in which to have an emergency appendectomy and, of course, we've had to cover for her. Yep, its been a mad scramble here today (mad enough that I had to take five minutes to type this and, simultaneously, catch my breath).
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^^^^
You're in desperate need of another dose of MUD with a side of Tadpole :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
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^^^^
You're in desperate need of another dose of MUD with a side of Tadpole :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
Lemme catch up a little first, brother. But yeah, it's now Pinnacles season for sure.
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Lemme catch up a little first, brother. But yeah, it's now Pinnacles season for sure.
Teaser and the MudKat
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1917/30696603437_ff8d5e8d9d_z.jpg)
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Big chunk of stone.
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Yep, its been a mad scramble here today (mad enough that I had to take five minutes to type this and, simultaneously, catch my breath).
So you're saying you had to work 35 hours this week? ;D (said lovingly)
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or 38 hours? ;)
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So you're saying you had to work 35 hours this week? ;D (said lovingly)
Yo, kid: my name is on the letterhead. I'm it (one of three "its" in our firm). As such, I'm working 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
That's 168 hours a week. Your math skills need some serious work (and don't be so damn jealous either).
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Better late than never. This one is for beano aka Raisin Snail and beanita
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4842/45173353874_31372c0021_z.jpg)
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Big eye roll to Brad's post :rolleyes:
LOL to John's post :lol:
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hahhahahha, on point John
5.7x!? Gah
can we throw some fenceposts in at least for mental pro
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He's a lawyer, not an accountant
Kathy, how many hours is he working??
My computer scientist viewpoint (based on # posts) is 15 hahhahahah
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He's a lawyer, not an accountant
No normal person thinks of me as a lawyer. It goes like this: Husband, father, climber, hiker, author. Then, maybe, what I do for a living.
And I work many, many, many hours a week. And then overtime, putting up with YOU PEOPLE.
BTW Cook, if you two make it to Tricia's play? Remember what you typed onto that photo of Kim. How prescient!
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Approximately 48 hours a day, is what I was told.
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You were "told?" Told?
Objection, hearsay. Actually in this case, objection, hearsay that is heresy. Told, sheesh. There's no-one out there credible enough to even start talking on that point.
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BTW Cook, if you two make it to Tricia's play? Remember what you typed onto that photo of Kim. How prescient!
If you belay beano on lead it is her stock phrase after negotiating the difficulties :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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If you belay beano on lead it is her stock phrase after negotiating the difficulties :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
Yep, I've heard her. Always with a smile and a bit of a laugh too.
She'd love Tricia's character in the play....
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Aww u retirees and part / over timers
enjoying the banter
have fun with all your time. can't wait until it's my time. i should hire an accountant to count it down for me (KATHY!?)
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A good play is hard to beat for entertainment.
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The key is to find tubercios treasure.
I found a map!
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tubercios treasure.
Tater treasure!
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Tater treasure!
Commentator
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Spoken like a true spud!
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You all seem to be living in your own private Idaho. :rolleyes:
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Spudnik, Idaho's first satellite.
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You all seem to be living in your own private Idaho.
And your point is???
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Quoting Geoff today "There is an art to being good." pause "It seems to be lost."
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Private Idaho is sant Cruz
;D
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Yo peeps,
Looking to climb Machete tomorrow, but its supposed to rain all night, stopping just before sunrise.
West face doesnt get sun till like noon... any chance of not slipping off the climb?
any hard data on rain compromising the integrity of the rock?
Happy thanksgiving!
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which route?
clipping an aid route/bolt ladder won't be a problem.
will likely be wet most places that aren't under an overhang.
stay off crimps right after a rain, and stay off protruding features right after a rain, is my recommendation.
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thanks munge!
Im thinking about Bills Bad Bolts. I was going to approach it via lucky 13 to GP headwall, but I remember the runouts on GP being kind gnar and I never found the last bolt when i did it. so i might just go with West Face.
Hoping to solo it.
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It will be a waterfall for a day or so after the rain. Been there in weather like this and needed a snorkel.
The only dry option is the much-shitty great arch traverse.
Fun route if everything else is wet.
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"It" as in Machete or West Face? P1 of West stays dry. But don't hook the free holds otherwise people get all bent.
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Better to stay home, sitting by a fire with a brew or 3.
I’m going diving Saturday.
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Rain rain, rain rain rain, rain rain rain rain rain rain rain.
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^^^
It's gonna be snow here. I've gotta get the snowblower out, cleaned and fueled. We're set on firewood.
Did you get on any of the Machete stuff while we had weather break?
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Dare I admit Ive been running back and forth to The Valley every few days for thr last 2 months?
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Dare I admit Ive been running back and forth to The Valley every few days for thr last 2 months?
Not on this thread blasphemer.
Your legs must be tired.
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Dare I admit Ive been running back and forth to The Valley every few days for thr last 2 months?
Which valley? There's Hanging, Neglected, Forgotten, and Deserted (at least). All are worthwhile, but I can't tell from your post which one you've been running to....
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It's not valley.
It's THE Valley.
I mean, why would you go there if you didn't have to?
I'm sure normal people say the same thing about Pinns.
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No normal person thinks of me as...
No one on this forum seems to fit that description. :out: :prrr:
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Granite!!!
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(https://i.redd.it/p8du3xsyg5121.jpg)
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Where in hell did you get that and how can I get a copy?
Maybe it should go on the next Master's of Mud Rendezvous T-shirt!
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buahahahahaha!
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Where in hell did you get that and how can I get a copy?
Brad, "right click" and then "save image as". Congratulations, you can now steal photos on the internet!
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Or go to this website:
https://imgflip.com/memegenerator
and make things like this....
(https://i.imgflip.com/2norue.jpg)
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^^^^^^
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
:puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke:
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Brad,
I made it, haha! Google "meme maker" and some of the sites can let you even upload your own image.
Here is another one I made a while back:
(https://i.redd.it/15lud0dq5u611.jpg)
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Pinnacles climbing season has officially started, but now there is only rain in the forecast for days.
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I made it, haha! Google "meme maker" and some of the sites can let you even upload your own image.
Kids these days....
What'll they think of next?
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^see above dank ass memes
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Pinnacles climbing season has officially started, but now there is only rain in the forecast for days.
One and two-thirds inches fell in 24 hours. All the valleys are just a little deeper now.
Good time to go take a Mud Bath.
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I like the first meme
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My favorite JC meme:
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/gone_zpskf9aovoc.jpg)
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... similarly:
(with an old signature from Kristin)
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/gonetom_zpseia1isun.jpg)
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lol
A J. Cook classic!
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My favorite JC meme:
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/gone_zpskf9aovoc.jpg)
This would be better if it was the other JC climbing >:D
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I would definitely take a T-shirt at the next MoM event with that meme, but it needs to be the other JC, no offense to the JC pictured.
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I couldnt find a real JC pic that was hairy enough to warrant the quote.
John you gotta get better at taking risky selfies
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Either JC doesn't take risks or he refuses to let anyone take a picture of his risk taking. ;D
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Either JC doesn't take risks or he refuses to let anyone take a picture of his risk taking. ;D
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4805/44293041880_2d9d94e2aa_b.jpg)
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I always wanted to get MOM bumper stickers.... I "HEART" Choss!
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Everybody <3 Choss!
Nice photoshop job, Brad. What will you photoshop next?
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3 heads are better than 1. The Frog True Summit. The head block actually looks a little froggy from this angle :yesnod: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/32312313588_f726d093d2_z.jpg)
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Huh, it does
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3 heads are better than 1. The Frog True Summit. The head block actually looks a little froggy from this angle :yesnod: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/32312313588_f726d093d2_z.jpg)
And if it does, pray tell, is that an orange wart on its head?
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^^^
Well, a handsome, muscular and quite intelligent wart, I mean.
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Strangely, after all the weather hype, very little rain fell overnight.
Considering the limited accessibility, Kat got a decent shot of me making that awkward, reachy move that gets you on your way to the summit.
A three inch cam provides some nice pro for all you aspiring summiteers :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/31252028737_16353a2643_z.jpg)
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We certainly squeezed in a day between raindrops.
J.C., I changed the descriptions of Tadpole Rock - East Face and The Frog - True Summit. Any edits or comments?
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We certainly squeezed in a day between raindrops.
J.C., I changed the descriptions of Tadpole Rock - East Face and The Frog - True Summit. Any edits or comments?
Sent you a PM.
Shoulda gotten on that old POS but I wasn't feeling in the mood for a scarefest. :yikes:
Was really hoping you'd find a lower bolt :crying:
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Sent you a PM.
Shoulda gotten on that old POS but I wasn't feeling in the mood for a scarefest. :yikes:
Was really hoping you'd find a lower bolt :crying:
None of it is really scary until you fall :D
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None of it is really scary until you fall :D
Or until you say Wham! or Boom! O' great and powerful predictor of doom! :incazzato: :out: :prrr:
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Pinns is getting slammed again with rain - almost 1/2 an inch in the last 6 hours.
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Pinns is getting slammed again with rain - almost 1/2 an inch in the last 6 hours.
Wham!
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[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Has to be fake news it never rains at the pinnacles!!
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Has to be fake news it never rains at the pinnacles!!
Stopped after 1:30 this morning - 3/4 of an inch total for this round.
More expected today and tonight - then a break for the weekend (what good is that?) and supposed to get more starting again Monday. Fill 'er up.
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Stopped after 1:30 this morning - 3/4 of an inch total for this round.
More expected today and tonight - then a break for the weekend (what good is that?) and supposed to get more starting again Monday. Fill 'er up.
.9 in my back yard - I just looked. It must have been a good deal more in the Gabilans!
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[ Invalid YouTube link ]
:puke:
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Wham / Slayer is so awesome. My life is more complete
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Wham / Slayer is so awesome. My life is more complete
All of our lives are now more complete. Any contribution from Noal has this effect.
(Actually, the breadth of his music knowledge is pretty damn impressive.)
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Wham / Slayer is so awesome. My life is more complete
So awful! And that damn riff was stuck in my head the whole time I was out on the wheel today.
Spun for almost 59 minutes too! It was a Slow Ride.
Let's see if he can dig up some obscure version of that one :arf: :guitar: :blahblah:
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Then there is this.....[ Invalid YouTube link ]zVELpokOD6s
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Where do you find this stuff?
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Those are some lovely, soothing vocals :yesnod: :nonod: :out: :crazy:
Did something get cut off with the Then there is this? (The link behind the video?)
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Those mashups are so funny. But man you DO NOT mess with Bill Withers!!! :nonod:
Slayer can mess with Wham any day of the week in my book.... :blahblah: :guitar: :devildevil:
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[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Those mashups are so funny.
Make it stop please! :yikes:
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Here's a repeat of the rising moon for ya buddy (NOAL). :lol: :ciappa:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/31252028737_16353a2643_z.jpg)
Anybody been questing for Mud?
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Anybody been questing for Mud?
The Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Tricia's band is marching. There will be fire trucks!!
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BAD MOON RAGING BRO.
[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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The Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Tricia's band is marching. There will be fire trucks!!
Anybody been questing for Mud?
Admit it. You were thinking about it today. No rain yesterday and nice conditions today - plus...sunny the next 2 days!
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Hot, hot, multi-family garage sale tomorrow in Santa Cruz. Rumor has it that there will be lots of very dull 3/8 inch drill bits on sale :P
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Admit it. You were thinking about it today. No rain yesterday and nice conditions today - plus...sunny the next 2 days!
Add in the fact that I spent over an hour working on guidebook text and half an hour cleaning the Rubble Wall map today. And I'm still waiting for help on that map, BTW. Yep, mud on the mind.
And the Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Yeehaw.
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Hot, hot, multi-family garage sale tomorrow in Santa Cruz. Rumor has it that there will be lots of very dull 3/8 inch drill bits on sale :P
Not sure I have any of those. I'll put a few aside for you if I find any.
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BAD MOON RAGING BRO.
You got me twice brah. Not havin' it :biggrin:
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I think Wham with Slayer was awesome! Weather is looking good for Pinns this weekend.
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I think Wham with Slayer was awesome! Weather is looking good for Pinns this weekend.
Hoping to make it out Sunday - as mentioned in an earlier post - we are having a multi family yard sale at our house tomorrow. I may need something extra in my coffee tomorrow morning ;)
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I hope there is no good climbing gear for sale at the yard sale. Selling good climbing gear is not a good sign. If you want to sell collector item climbing gear, no problem. I hope the sale goes well.
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I think Wham with Slayer was awesome! Weather is looking good for Pinns this weekend.
Family Christmas stuff tonight and tomorrow, Table Mountain Sunday for a massive pump.
Pinns on Tuesday and Wednesday (J.C. and K.C., are you available on Wednesday?).
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The Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Tricia's band is marching. There will be fire trucks!!
The Summerville High School Orange Crush band (school colors are black and orange):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4806/46173699732_2dac101f84_b.jpg)
Our favorite trumpet player on the far right, first line (also a Pinnacles first ascentionist no less):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4825/44407298650_866ecd37ce_c.jpg)
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I hope there is no good climbing gear for sale at the yard sale. Selling good climbing gear is not a good sign. If you want to sell collector item climbing gear, no problem. I hope the sale goes well.
No worries, No climbing gear for sale. Just lots of stuff we no longer need in the house.
;D
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first snow day in the lower regions yesterday. Last day of non rain today before the next deluge comes in. Current long term weather forecast after today is rain followed by more rain. I am part way through the design of the new ark.
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And when is spring??
Yer screwed!!!
Take up knitting by the fireplace.
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Had not thought of that. Will have to look into a fireplace.
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No fire place?
Man, you need one.
And one of those comfy chairs, that reclines.
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no to the fireplace. I am not splitting wood.
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no to the fireplace. I am not splitting wood.
Damn, complete flashback to that cabin you lived in in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
You didn't split wood there. Newspaper and large chunks of hard, oak wood, no splitting at all. Of course it took you 45 minutes of concentrated work to get the damn fire even going (that's a lot of lost knitting time).
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Quote from: mynameismud on Today at 03:41:03 PM
no to the fireplace. I am not splitting wood.
Damn, complete flashback to that cabin you lived in in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
You didn't split wood there. Newspaper and large chunks of hard, oak wood, no splitting at all. Of course it took you 45 minutes of concentrated work to get the damn fire even going (that's a lot of lost knitting time).
Damn Brad, you really hit the nail on that one....you'd think by now he'd know how to split wood.
Oh, how I wish I could have a fire at our place. I may have to buy a place in the Mtns, just to be able to have a fire and sit on the couch to watch it.
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Damn Brad, you really hit the nail on that one....you'd think by now he'd know how to split wood.
Oh, how I wish I could have a fire at our place. I may have to buy a place in the Mtns, just to be able to have a fire and sit on the couch to watch it.
Just put more wood on our fire.
Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
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You have a point, I would split wood for the proper circumstance.
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Just put more wood on our fire.
Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
I have a pellet stove I'll let you have cheap Mud.
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I do not like those things. Rather have a gas look a like wood stove.
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I do not like those things. Rather have a gas look a like wood stove.
Picky picky picky :rolleyes:
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Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
Kat lookin' chilled on the quest yesterday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/45363530905_aef6458fde_z.jpg)
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No pelt stove for him. He needs to split his own wood.
It builds character.
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Plus one for the mud and the thread count.
Kat lookin' chilled on the quest yesterday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/45363530905_aef6458fde_z.jpg)
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We finished Full Circle today. The third pitch was shorter than I expected, at 70 feet.
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any chance its dry?????
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Some slight dampness. Barely noticeable and it doesn’t affect the climbing.
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Yeah, Full Circle should be dry enough for at least a couple days before the next front of rain comes through this weekend. It was a relief to finally get that route finished... It's been a few years in the making!
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Congrats on the new FA
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I’ll update the description and the topo once I’m home and have access to my computer.
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Spoiler alert
Brad and waldo climbed Ribbit and Croak today - each leading a pitch. I think they dug it :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
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Spoiler alert
Brad and waldo climbed Ribbit and Croak today - each leading a pitch. I think they dug it :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
And we didn't croak....
Yeah, I think you undersold that route. The first 85 feet of climbing in the first pitch is really good. And true, the last 15 feet of that pitch are going to take about 200 ascents to clean up. But two relatively long pitches to the top of The Frog? Pretty nice.
And that first pitch anchor? That's literally a work of art. I'd haul El Cap loads off of that anchor with no worries.
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I concur with Brad. It was nice to see bomber bolts while I worked my way through the crumble.
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Look forward to the write-up of the route. Was it dry enough to reasonably climb? I was at the base several weeks ago, but it was way too wet to climb since it was northwest facing.
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^^^^
Thanks for the feedback guys. That upper bolt on the p1 anchor is half inch.
So glad we went back and took it to the top.
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It was wet. Slime makes you concentrate. Only the worthwhile (mostly) holds were dry.
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Look forward to the write-up of the route. Was it dry enough to reasonably climb? I was at the base several weeks ago, but it was way too wet to climb since it was northwest facing.
It stays nice and shady except at the belay. I roasted there when Kat and I did the 2nd pitch.
My writeup is on page 47 of this thread and will probably give you more details than the finished product :rolleyes:
Brevity is not my strong point when writing route descriptions.
Ribbit and Croak 5.6R
Starts about 50 feet left of Getch Getchy Bird on the west face of The Frog. Step off a big boulder and climb the face up and a little left to bolt 1. Continue up and a little left to bolt 2, then start traversing up and right to bolts 3 and 4. Climb up from bolt 4 toward the large overhang above. Duck under/into the right edge of the overhang and then make committing, runout moves out and onto the slab on the right – make a few more moves to reach bolt 5. Traverse right to bolts 6 and 7. There is a big, hollow, unstable? scab past bolt 7 with two medium-sized lodestones next to each other. These provide footholds and allow careful passage across the hollow scab and onto a dirty slab. Move up the slab to a big lodestone and climb onto the lodestone to reach the two-bolt anchor with chains – 110 feet from the start. Rappel 70 feet to the ground or continue up pitch 2.
FA Date 10-7-18, FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran
Pitch 2 – clip the first bolt (out left of the anchor) and step over an easy overhang, onto an exposed stance. Make committing moves up and slightly left to bolt 2. Climb to a third bolt about 25 feet higher. From the 3rd bolt, continue up a few moves and escape out right onto class four terrain - then meander to the summit (topping out below the left side/north end of the summit block, 65 feet from the start). Scramble down the opposite/east side 20 feet (class two) and belay from flat ground (no summit anchor). Walk off South Side Shuffle and around the south end of the formation.
FA Date 11-4-18, FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook
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What is apparent from the above posts is _____.
:) 1. Candidates for a picture depicting abnormal in the dictionary.
2.?
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O M G
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114014683/rock-bottom
this looks horrifying
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:puke:
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^^^
What a couple of candy-asses. Mud. Crud. Munge (hell, that's part of your damn name). It's all what we purport to love about the place.
Are you two going soft? Probably too much snow. Snowflakes. Yeah, that's it. In the truest sense of the word :P
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I am a precious snow flake! Love me. Fear me!
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The remarkable beauty of Pinnacles is that it always seems able to offer up a new low in rock quality.
Great name choice by the JC and KC.
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The remarkable beauty of Pinnacles is that it always seems able to offer up a new low in rock quality.
Great name choice by the JC and KC.
There's no "the" in JC and KC :prrr: :ciappa:
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O M G
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114014683/rock-bottom
this looks horrifying
Your post simply drips with envy :lol:
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There's no "the" in JC and KC :prrr: :ciappa:
Geesus. You'd think you were a highway in Southern California or sumpin'.
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:puke:
Watch it buddy - you're almost 30 and it's all downhill from there - Happy Birthday from the Cookies :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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THE bad thing about Twimpy gov shutdown is Pinnacles will be closed.
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Hell no is the orange turd going to shut down Pinnacles. I heard that if there was a shutdown, it would not affect the National Park Service. I hope that is true since I have reservations this coming week for camping at the Pinnacles.
I did not see any alerts on the Pinnacles NPS website regarding Pinns being shut. Gavin, is there any plans for shutting Pinns if the orange turd shuts down the government?
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Hell no is the orange turd going to shut down Pinnacles.
Is this like the hantavirus?
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No, it is much worst than the hantavirus.
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No, it is much worst than the hantavirus.
Quite true I suppose if you're a Syrian Kurd who's spent the last three years fighting with U.S. military forces....
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I always thought about Christmas at the monument .
Needless to say the boss was not thrilled.
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Time to get a new boss!
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It's official - but the Quest will continue regardless.
Sally forth into the choss :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Just back from the Crud.
What did we do today? A new route of course. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
It was the end of our seventh year of climbing at Pinns.
We started on this date in 2011.
Seven Year Itch 5.2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4895/31507965067_48ed9fd9ae_z.jpg)
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By the way - the gate on the west side was open - it's on a timer and I'm sure the gates will stay open on the east side. The bathrooms are locked, so plan accordingly. The campground is not run by the park, so I imagine it will be business as usual.
We saw a squadron of six condors (2 groups of 3) soaring above Balconies while we were enjoying some after climbing libation in the parking lot. Nice sunset on the drive out.
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Quest for Mud Special edition achieved new status yesterday when we arrived in the west side parking lot to a large mud pie of a different and disgusting sort. Someone had decided to relieve themselves in the parking space just in front of the restrooms. KC suggested I not post the picture.
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we call those Twimp Turds. GOP controlled House, Senate, and Executive. Now they think they can leave the sh1t show for the rest of us.
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we call those Twimp Turds. GOP controlled House, Senate, and Executive. Now they think they can leave the sh1t show for the rest of us.
I just thought it gave new meaning to Much Shitty Ridge.
The stool was a loose, large pile (no turds), indicating a very regular person.
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thank you for your restraint
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Jiffy Poop
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Savages!
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My last climbing partner just moved to Texas, so I bought gear to solo TR, and today I faced the hordes attracted by free entrance to break it in on Deep Groove Wall. Absolutely perfect day. I tagged all 4 routes. Huge thanks to everyone who developed them. They were all super solid and super fun. No Room for Squares was especially good.
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No mud-addict in training on the gri-gri?
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He needs a couple more pounds. Or JC and KC need to start installing anchors at the bottom of their routes for me to tether him to. ;D
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He needs a couple more pounds. Or JC and KC need to start installing anchors at the bottom of their routes for me to tether him to. ;D
I used to go to the Gorge with Katie and she’d belay me with a GriGri while tethered. And then after climbing we’d go out on desert roads and I’d teach her to drive.
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He needs a couple more pounds. Or JC and KC need to start installing anchors at the bottom of their routes for me to tether him to. ;D
Sorry bro - we like you and Calvin but that is not going to happen.
Funny that you posted today as your tag line and name came up today when we were on our way out of the west side.
Glad you enjoyed the routes - "Squares" was NOAL's brainchild and we had a lot of fun putting that up on his birthday. Definitely the best route on that particular wall.
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Savages!
Yes - thanks to people like this they are shutting the east side down as of today (starts tomorrow Sunday the 30th).
According to the Pinns facebook page, only people with verifiable campground reservations will be allowed past the intersection of hwy 25 and 146 (the east entrance). You must present your reservation receipt to gain access. No cars will be allowed past the campground road.
The west entrance will remain open - for now...
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Glad I snuck in under the wire. I got a late start and didn't hit Bear Gulch until 11, and it was a madhouse. I waited 15 minutes for a parking spot. Others were parking in the 20 minute spots and on the side of the road, but I had zero doubt that, shutdown or no, the government had enough in its coffers for parking enforcement. Sure enough, when I returned there were a lot of orange tags on a lot of windows.
And speaking of thinking of mudders while on the west side, about a month ago I may have gotten a shot of your orange shirt, JC. Once I get my act together with Flickr I'll post it up to see if it is you.
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And then after climbing we’d go out on desert roads and I’d teach her to drive.
Everytime I'm out deep on a forest service road that's all I can think about. But desert's smarter-fewer dropoffs and fewer things to hit.
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The tags on the windows were red.
;)
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They were orange. When will the lies end Brad....
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They were orange. When will the lies end Brad....
Kinda young for LSD flashbacks aren’t you? And please, continue with Mister Young.
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And please, continue with Mister Young.
I thought it was Your Highness or Your Majesty :lol: :ciappa: :out: :prrr:
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My staff calls me “Emperor.” He could also stick with that.
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Yes - thanks to people like this they are shutting the east side down as of today (starts tomorrow Sunday the 30th).
According to the Pinns facebook page, only people with verifiable campground reservations will be allowed past the intersection of hwy 25 and 146 (the east entrance). You must present your reservation receipt to gain access. No cars will be allowed past the campground road.
The west entrance will remain open - for now...
What a madhouse!!
It is high peaks season....
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What a madhouse!!
It is high peaks season....
The last line of the announcement on Pinnacles Facebook page;
Additional facilities and areas may close within Pinnacles National Park at any time for the health and safety of park visitors.
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My staff calls me “Emperor.” He could also stick with that.
Only if you work clothed.
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seriously, don't folks have better places to go, like LA???
Pinnacles what?? No, go to LA or Skiing, yeah go skiing.
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Only if you work clothed.
Funny Waldo!
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Waldo got to enjoy Prune Pinnacle today.
I couldn't stick around long enough to take pics of him - had to go thrash up the chimneys on Proclamation Pinnacle (front side) with climberdude.
The dude abides :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :smilewinkgrin:
Happy New Year mudders :blahblah: :guitar: :arf:
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Any increase in traffic on the west side with the east side being closed (to everyone but campers)? It was wild on the east side yesterday. The lightest traffic day I have seen on a Sunday. The "man" was in full force at the entrance not letting people in.
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Any increase in traffic on the west side with the east side being closed (to everyone but campers)? It was wild on the east side yesterday. The lightest traffic day I have seen on a Sunday. The "man" was in full force at the entrance not letting people in.
Plenty of people there. Unfortunately people were still taking advantage of and abusing the situation. A couple was walking their dog along the Steep and Narrow and I heard them talking about how they were getting away with it. Brad read them the riot act. There were about 10 cars parked along the sides of the final part of the road right before the lower parking lot. There was one obvious streamer of teepee strewn in front of the bathroom. I guess they brought their own but couldn't be bothered to dispose of it properly. I saw multiple places along the trail with teepee or other paper products. We talked to a lot of nice folks on the trails but there were still a few bad apples or just people behaving badly. We'll take a trash picker and a bag next time out.
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...We'll take a trash picker and a bag next time out.
And I'm taking a cattle-prod. Maybe a f#$&ng taser.
I hear that Joshua Tree is even worse. To the point of people literally driving off the highway into the roadless desert.
Maybe climate change is good. If it wipes out most of this scourge called (loosely) "humanity."
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Only if you work clothed.
Waldo got to enjoy Prune Pinnacle today.
Waldo "enjoyed" Prune with a fully clothed Brad (and other friends). Actually, considering those arctic winds, maybe the phrase should be a fully, fully, fully clothed Brad.
Wonderful day. But it seemed like I just couldn't get warm!
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But it seemed like I just couldn't get warm!
Maybe we never got warm because the high was only 53 (at 2:30) and the wind was gusting to 30 mph. I turned up the heat when I got home and took a long hot shower to get warm.
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Waldo "enjoyed" Prune with a fully clothed Brad (and other friends). Actually, considering those arctic winds, maybe the phrase should be a fully, fully, fully clothed Brad.
Wonderful day. But it seemed like I just couldn't get warm!
The Emperor had clothes, but waldo lost the seat of his pants whilst butt-climbing Prune's summit ridge. Pants be damned! I'm always happy to demonstrate an elegant climbing technique to new climbers, however.
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The Emperor had clothes, but the Waldo lost the seat of his pants whilst butt-climbing the Prune' summit ridge. Pants be damned! I'm always happy to demonstrate an elegant climbing technique to new climbers, however.
I was just reading through my FA log and was laughing when I saw that I did the lower traverse on my arse and then crawled along the summit ridge on my knees (with knee pads). Style points be damned. Whatever gets you there safely. NOAL taught me a thing or three about that.
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Hero shot - north summit of Proclamation Pinnacle. The dude is at the anchor. Blue is the new orange. I'm thinking of switching to camo :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4880/31617552347_be01afd8f2_z.jpg)
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I was just reading through my FA log and was laughing when I saw that I did the lower traverse on my arse and then crawled along the summit ridge on my knees (with knee pads). Style points be damned. Whatever gets you there safely. NOAL taught me a thing or three about that.
Did I ever mention that a climbing partner of mine from the eighties wanted to set up a nude tyrollean between North and South Fingers? Never happened, though he still wants to do it. While aspiration lingers, the aesthetics of the project deteriorated long ago.
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Did I ever mention that a climbing partner of mine from the eighties wanted to set up a nude tyrollean between North and South Fingers? Never happened, though he still wants to do it. While aspiration lingers, the aesthetics of the project deteriorated long ago.
Oh my God!!
Not only the thought, but the damn coffee that just blew out my nose when I read that.
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Did I ever mention that a climbing partner of mine from the eighties wanted to set up a nude tyrollean between North and South Fingers? Never happened, though he still wants to do it. While aspiration lingers, the aesthetics of the project deteriorated long ago.
You might talk clink into doing it in a loin cloth but I don't think he'd go for the Full Monty :lol: :yikes:
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Right now I am not putting my high functioning assburgers on display. Check back in a few months.
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Right now I am not putting my high functioning assburgers on display. Check back in a few months.
Hold it, is this some sort of promise? Are we allowed to expect some weird kind of performance?
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Right now I am not putting my high functioning assburgers on display. Check back in a few months.
A MOM tyrollean?
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Are we allowed to expect some weird kind of performance?
Why would you expect anything else?
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My virgin eyes...Brad's shorts are short enough.
The thought of Clink in a loin cloth using a swami...well now I won't be able to sleep tonight.
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The "birth canal" on Proclamation's North Summit Regular Route. I turned around to take the pic relative to how I came up/out.
The rope is well left of the canal. Not sure how it flipped over there, since I came up from the other direction - underneath the bulge - then wriggle up into the roughly triangular, claustrophobic canal and pray you don't get stuck. :yikes:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7869/45718630065_fe46e20ee1_z.jpg)
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I am somewhere down at the end of the rope out of view. You know it is going to be narrow when JC advises take off the chalk bag and all items off of your harness.
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I am somewhere down at the end of the rope out of view. You know it is going to be narrow when JC advises take off the chalk bag and all items off of your harness.
I took that shot looking down while I was trying to catch my breath after being birthed.
I hadn't climbed up to clip the lone bolt yet. Still had some climbing to do to top out and figure out the belay situation.
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I took that shot looking down while I was trying to catch my breath after being birthed.
Since Climberdude was the first being you saw after "being birthed", I will totally get it if you start calling him Big Daddy.
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Waldo following Prune Pinnacle on this last New Year's Eve (photos by Caitlyn Rich):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4868/45723506155_e0b9d75c67_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7871/45723504185_f5149b40f9_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4808/45723507695_cb2f495477_c.jpg)
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Ride 'em cowboy, Waldo!
I also had a Prunoscopy with Dr. Cook attending. He fortunately didn't flip the rope while I was doing the crux, so I wouldn't pendji if a hold broke. >:D Now that would keep you regular!
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if a hold broke....
Nothing to worry about. No holds are ever going to break off of that thing again.
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Waldo, the holds are all solid on that route - can't understand why you are riding the horse. :o :o
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Ride 'em cowboy, Waldo!
I also had a Prunoscopy with Dr. Cook attending. He fortunately didn't flip the rope while I was doing the crux, so I wouldn't pendji if a hold broke. >:D Now that would keep you regular!
Just channeling my inner Eastwood. When in doubt, sit it out!
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yeehaw!
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I like the look on his face at the start of the ridge (pic 2). :ihih: :devildevil:
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I like the look on his face at the start of the ridge (pic 2). :ihih: :devildevil:
I admit I wasn't feeling the joy of the hills at that point and may not have lived up to the maxim: "Take only pictures; leave only footprints." Pictures were taken. Prints were left.
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I admit I wasn't feeling the joy of the hills at that point and may not have lived up to the maxim
Cochran said we hit a new low that day. :yesnod: :biggrin: :lol: :out:
We hit a new low.
Awful, ugly, and gross rock.
The worst route yet for me.
The consistency of dried diarrhea. When you hit rock bottom, chug a quart of prune juice and start digging.
A parade of shitfuckery.
The two square feet of drillable rock eight feet below the summit and the rappel were very good.
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We exposed a lot of mud the last few days. A different sort of quest.
Not the kind I particularly care to mess with.
This is what happens when your water supply line is galvanized steel, buried since 1963 and routed through 4 of your neighbor's yards. Pay the water company an exorbitant rate to relocate your water meter to your street and remove the old connections from the street behind you. Oh by the way - You are responsible for getting the line from the meter at the street to your house.
Kat takes a turn as we get closer to the end.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4888/46022285464_427d43ea79_z.jpg)
Done after 2 days of mud slinging. You can't see the 35 foot section down the front yard (under blue tarps). I would definitely rather drill bolts by hand in crud :idea: :incazzato:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/46022288474_50e16faecd_z.jpg)
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^^^
Wow. Textbook P.I.T.A.
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Pay the water company an exorbitant rate to relocate your water meter to your street and remove the old connections from the street behind you. Oh by the way - You are responsible for getting the line from the meter at the street to your house.
how much for the relocation on the meter? I used to work on a crew that did the connections between the main (tapping into a huge 36" main is something else!), and the meter, and painting the hydrants mostly. Can be fun laying pipe (no pipe jokes please)!
All copper from the meter to the house, yes?
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It's been 34 years. Jim started Escargot in 1985. Five trips over the years. He and we finished it today.
I'm pretty sure it's the longest span from start to finish of any route at Pinns. I'll post a write-up as soon as I can get my notes back to Ellen.
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With a 34 year wait, it's assumed really bad (climb quality)?
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With a 34 year wait, it's assumed really bad (climb quality)?
You'd love it.
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It's been 34 years. Jim started Escargot in 1985. Five trips over the years. He and we finished it today.
I'm pretty sure it's the longest span from start to finish of any route at Pinns.
Certainly done at a snails pace. Appropriate name. Congrats on finishing it.
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THAT is typical Santa Cruz engineering at it's finest!!
Try having to dig a new sewer line under your house...yeah just like the great escape.
We used to hit the water line all the time in the front yard growing up. We got good at fixing it.
Finally, mom ran a NEW water line from the street.....way deeper than the old one.
Now back to Santa Cruz engineering....dad's old outside shower had no drain since it was on a deck. maybe there was a some plastic and a drain pipe, I can't remember. I do remember out front on the side of the driveway was a funny green wet spot......
So the water did go somewhere.
I miss Santa Cruz and it's odd ball engineering.
Mr Munge, yeah the laying the pipe would be fun....not the trenching.
And what is Jim doing all the way at the Pinnacles? Must be retired or something.
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And what is Jim doing all the way at the Pinnacles? Must be retired or something.
or something -> it’s the BY factor
(actually it’s my annual get back in touch with my climbing roots trip)
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Jim, congratulations!
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(actually it’s my annual get back in touch with my climbing routes trip)
There, I fixed it for you.
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There's mud in them thar hills...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4904/32870370138_ea6f161a43_b.jpg)
yet, again, stuck on the Hill rather than Pinns (not that a gov shutdown will allow it anyways).
Good news is not going to be forking over double cost for propane going forward. Bad news, have to be there for the install. wtf?
Who charges 4.99gal for propane?
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Spent the day with Brad and Kat yesterday before the rain moves back in again.
The climbing and formation reminded me a bit of climberdudes routes on Paleface.
This route and the other two we did there will make a nice day out combined with Junction Rocks and Spasm.
There is now a fun 5.5, 5.6 and 5.7
Helped with some guidebook work up at Generation Gap in the late afternoon.
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Awww miss that crud and those grades!
Kim & I will wear orange & khaki next time we r out with you guys hahaha
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Munge, Shouldn't you be using that thing to approach climbs. You can ride to the base, climb all day, then ride out.
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Awww miss that crud and those grades!
Kim & I will wear orange & khaki next time we r out with you guys hahaha
We have lots of fun, new stuff for you guys.
Should have gone back today but lacked the ambition or motivation (shoulda coulda woulda).
I'll track the precip closely so we can get back out over the next break.
Water was still flowing everywhere yesterday and some of the slopes were absolute mush!
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I had the pleasure yesterday of belaying J.C. on his lead of a very physical and sustained chimney route. It obviously challenged him, but he went for it, kept his cool and pulled it off.
I imagine he's got a few battle scars ;D
And I suspect that now, over 24 hours after the fact, he might be seeing the fun in the ascent (is that second or third level fun?).
Excellent effort John. Glad I was part of it.
I still haven't finished unpacking and my camera is buried. I'll get to it eventually and post at least a summit photo.
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Cheers JC, for successfull squeezing.
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I had the pleasure yesterday of belaying J.C. on his lead of a very physical and sustained chimney route. It obviously challenged him, but he went for it, kept his cool and pulled it off.
I imagine he's got a few battle scars ;D
And I suspect that now, over 24 hours after the fact, he might be seeing the fun in the ascent (is that second or third level fun?).
Excellent effort John. Glad I was part of it.
I still haven't finished unpacking and my camera is buried. I'll get to it eventually and post at least a summit photo.
Thanks Brad.
And thanks to KC for getting some shots. I had a hard time choosing but I think this was the best one.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/33552323428_6976187a96_z.jpg)
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Any gear to protect that wyde maw?
Nice!
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Any gear to protect that wyde maw?
Nice!
I got in a #6 at a narrowing fairly low (high reach) and then bumped it up after I started groveling.
Look at the pic again and you can see an up and right diagonal crack about 2 feet above my head. I got in a really good 2 inch cam there (whew!), took a rest (on a stance) and then dove into the squeeze again. There is more pro higher. I managed to get a #1, #5 and #4 in up there. The climbing up higher is easier but it was still nice to get more stuff in and get it off my rack.
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I got in a #6 at a narrowing fairly low (high reach) and then bumped it up after I started groveling.
Look at the pic again and you can see an up and right diagonal crack about 2 feet above my head. I got in a really good 2 inch cam there (whew!), took a rest and then dove in again. There is more pro higher. I managed to get a #1, #5 and #4 in up there. The climbing up higher is easier but it was still nice to get more stuff in and get it off my rack.
It sounds wrong when you say you took a "rest" after you got a piece in. You caught your breath might be a better way to describe it (never weighted any piece, no flaws in his ascent).
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It sounds wrong when you say you took a "rest" after you got a piece in. You caught your breath might be a better way to describe it (never weighted any piece, no flaws in his ascent).
I figured you'd chime in and say that you had to carry all that gear when you followed!
The start up the bottom of the slot has a thick pine needle covering, allowing the follower to ditch the #6 to a pillow soft landing :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Got down to the east side today, even though I am still pretty damn sore.
Got two anchors replaced and bagged a new summit.
It was evidently too cool and overcast for the wildflowers to open up.
Orange poppies were closed on the way in and still clammed up on the way out.
Time for more rain. :madmax: :madman: :incazzato: :crying:
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We saw Mud and NOAL yesterday. :lol: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33737111158_5dae0751d4_z.jpg)
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I look so damn good in black.
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“Did you hear? He is coming back...maybe we will get him this time?”
“He is being sneaky by not driving that orange car.”
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Climbed another of Gavin's nice routes at Spikes Peak yesterday - Bacon Bits 5.8**.
Cool route - literally and figuratively.
Still need to refurbish Little Javelina and get on that - as well as Dances With Warthogs :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin: :thumbup:
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Spoof Proof Roof saw a second ascent today.
Amber took her first leader fall on Get a Grip.
Jesse and his mom hiked to the Frog with Kim.
Kim drank from the spigot back at the picnic tables.
We gave a couple girls from New Zealand a ride to the Visitor center.
I got a tick bite (Kat just got done digging the head out with a needle).
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Not a bit surprised that the tick died.
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Did the tick have Poison Oak on it? Never know.
I got one once, didn't notice until after I had dropped Mr Mud off. Not fun trying by you-self.
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Ticks are going to be raging!
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Say Munge aren’t the ticks attracted to bright colors?
Like orange?
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Say Munge aren’t the ticks attracted to bright colors?
Like orange?
Yeah.
Or, in your case, stark white.
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Wear green. Blend. Ticks can’t see you.
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F4 is on a roll.
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A squirrel gets his nut every once in a while.
Mungie loves ticks
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A squirrel gets his nut every once in a while.
Mungie loves ticks
You're confused.
Munge loves you. But he thinks you're a tick.
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But he thinks you're a tick.
I am...I get under his skin and drink all his beer.
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Bud Light Lyme?
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Fight the real fight! Scurvy!
Now brewed with real lime peels!
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Bud Light Lyme?
Pretty clever for a knuckle-dragging mud groper.
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Hey i resemble that comment!
Face it Munge they just don’t understand!!
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Now brewed with real lime peels!
That got a good laugh ;D
Is this true?
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Pretty clever for a knuckle-dragging mud groper.
Look who is talking, the Neanderthals would have worshiped you as a god.
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Hey T O Double D - how did you like Here's Mud in Your Eye?
I think we saw you on Summer of Mud too :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Just spent 4 days at Pinns with some pretty glorious temps.
Climbed a bunch, hung out with lots of cool folks and did an FA with Brad today.
Pretty sweet :biggrin: :ihih:
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Here's a couple shots from yesterday. It was windy and overcast in the morning while we were working - shivering in a T-shirt and sweatshirt at Pinnacles - not likely to last!
Brad drilled bolt 1 and set me up very nicely for the bolt 2 stance
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47749785391_6c791081cd_z.jpg)
Me drilling bolt 2
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46960476144_7e5a5939b8_z.jpg)
Me on the summit, Brad at the base. 5.8, no stars. Fun day. Good adventure. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40783345233_e75a265238_z.jpg)
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Hey T O Double D - how did you like Here's Mud in Your Eye?
I think we saw you on Summer of Mud too :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Just spent 4 days at Pinns with some pretty glorious temps.
Climbed a bunch, hung out with lots of cool folks and did an FA with Brad today.
Pretty sweet :biggrin: :ihih:
Ha! That was my first day out there that I actually got to climb real routes. Mud in your Eye was my fav of the day, but we didn’t have time to climb much. I ended up soling stupid things, while Bee patiently coached a climber up Bathing Beuty. That one had a fun start, but we didn’t have any info and went left after the crux, instead of right. Squeaky Clean was a rad 5.6! Easy, but steep. Broke a hold, and almost my ankle, before the first bolt of Hollywood Stars. Last was Mud Diamond, which looked way worse than it turned out to be. It was a cruiser and so fun!
Good stuff out there. Thanks for putting in the work and bolts! Glad y’all had fun too!
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Ha! That was my first day out there that I actually got to climb real routes.
Sweet. Sounds like you had fun. Hollywood Stars is a bit stout for the grade and there is definitely loose stuff on there. Brad broke a hold after the crux when he free soloed it originally (he added the bolt after) - and luckily did not fall. Maybe print out the routes next time to maximize your fun? - still lots of good stuff out there and shady too on hot days. Here's mud in your eye :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!? ;D
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I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!? ;D
There is also this thing called pen and paper :lol:
I ended up soling stupid things, while Bee patiently coached a climber up Bathing Beuty. That one had a fun start, but we didn’t have any info and went left after the crux, instead of right.
We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc.
I checked BB just for fun - The arete is mentioned thrice - would have kept you from going left into unclimbed/untested territory. :yikes: You must have finished on Mud Bath
Bathing Beauty 5.9 ** Start on a 20 foot high, steep section of rock protected by two bolts (this section includes the route’s short crux). Good rock leads to a blunt arete on the right. Move around this arete before continuing straight up to a two-bolt anchor 80 feet from the ground. There are seven lead bolts total. Unfortunately, the rock quality on this route diminishes on the right side of the arete.
I'm just glad you got back out there and got to climb some fun stuff. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!? ;D
I forgot you climb with Atomizer :lol:
You got extra points in my book for climbing Rock Bottom :yesnod:
Most of the routes at Crud and Mud are more about having fun with a few surprises and some have spice. Try leading Mudster's Ball for a thrill or hop on Call of the Crud if you want something less serious. Summer of Mud has some adventure and is super easy. It's 4:20 Dude has its moments too. Ashes the Mud and I goes from well protected to not when it joins the old 4th Class route (upgraded to 5.2).
If you really want some adventure, head up and do the three routes at Doodlin' Dody and the three at Forgotten Sister.
The Toes and Dionysian Tower are pretty wild too.
Rubble Wall has some of the scariest old routes I've done but they don't make Brad's scary list (hmmmm).
The new routes up there turned out really nice too.
The New World has some cool routes and summits.
The list goes on...
You should come out with us sometime... :frown2: :yesnod: :idea:
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We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc
"We" he says.
Although the new routes list has my name on it, both J.C. and K.C. spend huge amounts of time proofreading for typos, and checking for accuracy and simplicity. And not just on that list; they've been doing the same for the new guidebook texts.
Same thing as to field-checking. Ridiculous really. It almost makes me think that they need to get a life.
Oh. Well, I've got a life, the statement doesn't apply to me (somehow).
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^^^
Huge amounts (I think they enjoy doing such things).
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You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
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You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
You know Mike, it really irritates me when you accuse me of forgetting things.
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Kat and I returned to the Forgotten Sister yesterday to climb Initiation Fees and Uber the Goober. We climbed Chute the Moon on Monday. Chute the Moon can be approached from below via a huge, ant-covered log (I've never seen so many ants!) and then a tenuous scramble on loose, mossy rock above poison oak. :yikes: We opted to rap into the route and climb back out. There is a ton of PO about 3 feet back from the base but there is also a tree that catches the rope when it is dropped from the anchor. We carefully reeled in the rope after it was dropped from the anchor. You need a third partner (thanks Brad!) or a chimp (Hi NOAL!) to do it this way. The climb has decent stances for placing gear, some exposure when moving past the terminus of the crack, good rock and nice length.
Initiation Fees is in your face at the start (past the fixed pin) and then goes through some of the longest runouts I've ever done.
The last bolt is hard to see from below. I kept looking along the cleanest, nicest-looking chute and finally saw the whiteish hanger on the left wall above me when I was almost in a position to clip it. Expect to be fighting rope drag toward the exit, even if you use long runners on everything but the fixed pin and the last bolt. The exit is cool and most of the rock is very good.
Uber the Goober is worth doing while you are there but not nearly as good as Initiation Fees and also very runout.
Here is a picture looking down 130 feet to Kat at the start of Uber the Goober. The rope is hung on a knob well above the 3rd bolt, even though I noticed it on the way up and flipped it. What a drag :lol: :out:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47765569961_bbe97aae73_z.jpg)
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Which 2bit knuckle heads put up that route.
We can add a few bolts...
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Lots of crunchy stuff on that rock.
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Lots of crunchy stuff on that rock.
Funny you should say that. I can still hear the echo of the lichen crunching under my feet on Uber the Goober.
Some crunchy rock on Initiation Fees but plenty of good stuff too.
Did you get a chimp yet? :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Some crunchy rock on Initiation Fees but plenty of good stuff too.
I just remember a butt load of lichen.
Did you get a chimp yet?
Do they eat lichen?
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I just remember a butt load of lichen.
Do they eat lichen?
I think Mud does :lol:
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You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
I wondered why I went bald. It must have been Brad.
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I have some hangers to paint pink. We can fix up the route....3-4 should do fine.
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I think Mud does
Dunno bout that but we did eat some chex mix with moss in it one time. Pretty good.
We can fix up the route
It's kinda of like climbing a 70's porno flick. Very natural and un groomed.
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It's kinda of like climbing a 70's porno flick. Very natural and un groomed.
Holy, holy crap... I'm still trying to anywise this one. And I think I will be for a long time.
:o ::)
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I can't decide which of Noal's comments is funnier
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I had a moss and dirt appetizer today for lunch followed by more of the same for the main course and again for dessert.
After the Sierra Club I needed a broom or a leaf blower and now a shower! :lol:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1922/43211300290_40c03d2439_z.jpg)
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Do you use that for grooming?
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There is also this thing called pen and paper :lol:
We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc.
I checked BB just for fun - The arete is mentioned thrice - would have kept you from going left into unclimbed/untested territory. :yikes: You must have finished on Mud Bath
Bathing Beauty 5.9 ** Start on a 20 foot high, steep section of rock protected by two bolts (this section includes the route’s short crux). Good rock leads to a blunt arete on the right. Move around this arete before continuing straight up to a two-bolt anchor 80 feet from the ground. There are seven lead bolts total. Unfortunately, the rock quality on this route diminishes on the right side of the arete.
I'm just glad you got back out there and got to climb some fun stuff. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
I’m making it sound a bit more lackadaisical than the reality. I actually had the new routes page on my phone for a bit, but it somehow vanished when we got out there. I’ve also been there a few times on solo scouting missions, so I had a pretty good idea of what was what and kept telling her to go right but she focused on the bolt she could see.
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kept telling her to go right but she focused on the bolt she could see.
I know someone like that. I was taught that when in doubt, follow the line of least resistance.
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Do you use that for grooming?
Only in the nether regions.
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I’m making it sound a bit more lackadaisical than the reality.
I felt like that hanging on my lazy daisy yesterday while drilling.
Gotta give you grief dude - I mean...that's what we do on here right? :yesnod: :thumbup: :smilewinkgrin: :devildevil:
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Holy, holy crap... I'm still trying to anywise this one. And I think I will be for a long time.
:o ::)
Supposedly this word has been around since the 13th century but this is the first time I have ever heard of it, much less seen anyone use it in a sentence.
Surrounded by weirdos and freaks! :yesnod: :biggrin: :lol: :prrr:
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[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Great song. Studio version is sweet with the sharp guitar and base.
The live non produced version the guitar isn’t as sharp, but that’s live (recordings).
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^^^^^
Either he is out climbing or is ignoring me...as is often the case.
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Supposedly this word has been around since the 13th century but this is the first time I have ever heard of it, much less seen anyone use it in a sentence.
clink stopped by yesterday evening and said he had never heard of it either.
Maybe it will come up on Jeopardy and knock the current champ off his still-rising pedestal.
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Yes, I stopped by and was informed of a possible upcoming snippet by KC.
:o
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We met two nice young climber couples on the west side today - Lance and Savannah and Trevor and Maggie. They were headed out separately to climb Costanoan and Old Original respectively.
While I was working today, the weirdest thing happened. I kept hearing a sound that sounded like someone shaking out a sheet on the cliff above me. It was a loud, flapping sound that kept repeating. I saw no birds and there were no other climbers. It happened a few times and then again later. The last time it happened, I was on easy ground, not moving and listening intently. I looked around and saw some long grass moving in waves and swirling. The next thing I knew, a small cyclone spun past me and across the face of the cliff. I have seen dust devils before but never at Pinns and never anything like this. Very cool :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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Had a close encounter with number 92 today while Gavin and I were out questing for mud.
I was leading and then belaying Gavin up the route and I could hear some commotion from above.
It was a flapping sound again.
It wasn't windy though - in fact it was one of the foggiest days I have ever seen - or more appropriately haven't seen.
When we got back up to the main summit, number 92 was up there and had been trying his best to rummage through our packs.
He threw my bolt bag a few feet, knocked Gavin's water bottle from his pack, rolled my pack a few feet from where I left it and took a couple chunks out of Gavin's pack. Luckily we had put almost everything in our packs and zipped them up.
Good thing Brad's pack wasn't up there - there would have been nothing left but a few patches and some mounds of thread :lol: :arf: :ciappa:
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Had a close encounter with number 92 today while Gavin and I were out questing for mud.
I was leading and then belaying Gavin up the route and I could hear some commotion from above.
It was a flapping sound again.
It wasn't windy though - in fact it was one of the foggiest days I have ever seen - or more appropriately haven't seen.
When we got back up to the main summit, number 92 was up there and had been trying his best to rummage through our packs.
He threw my bolt bag a few feet, knocked Gavin's water bottle from his pack, rolled my pack a few feet from where I left it and took a couple chunks out of Gavin's pack. Luckily we had put almost everything in our packs and zipped them up.
So the two of you are harassing a federally endangered species? That doesn't look good (and yes, teaching the bird to be a delinquent is harassment over the long term).
Good thing Brad's pack wasn't up there - there would have been nothing left but a few patches and some mounds of thread :lol: :arf: :ciappa:
Wow, that's a real low shot. And that pack was finally, finally coming around to like you.
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The condor in question - 692 - has been acting like a pest for some weeks now. I tried to haze him away from us with loud clapping and he was unfazed.
A couple weeks ago 692 picked up a visitor's trekking pole in the High Peaks and threw it downslope below the Scout Peak outhouse!
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If Gavin is putting up new routes, who is watching the birds?
Who is watching who?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47765971762_084808dc33_z.jpg)
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The condor in question - 692 - has been acting like a pest for some weeks now. I tried to haze him away from us with loud clapping and he was unfazed.
A couple weeks ago 692 picked up a visitor's trekking pole in the High Peaks and threw it downslope below the Scout Peak outhouse!
I dub thee Sir Charles (Chuck for short) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Happy 5.10 day.
I got a 5.9 yesterday and a hard to rate 7 on the 7th.
I'll leave the rest to you mudders that pull down (or stand up) harder than me :lol:
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I think I like 692
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I dub thee Sir Charles (Chuck for short) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
Nope, The Mad Mudder
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Nope, The Mad Mudder
I think your cobble is cracked :biggrin:
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Questing for mud with an overnight stay just became a bit more expensive.
Single sites in the campground are now $30 (up from $23).
Still cheaper than the current price of gas from our place if we split a site with someone else. :yesnod: :ihih:
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Jackasses!!!
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I think I like 692
He definitely let us know who is boss. We tried to tell him we were only there for the choss. :redface:
He's one of Little Stinker's boyfriends. Must be taking lessons :idea:
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692 sounds like a cool bird.
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Yeah J.C. I threaten to go down and camp every other weekend.
So the boys can’t use their computers!!
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sounds like a good plan
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I'm having breakfast at the Cooks. John made me a bowl of his "Preemptive Strike Oatmeal", it will keep you regular next week today.
:)
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5:40am? Little later in the morning for pinnacles.
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I'm having breakfast at the Cooks. John made me a bowl of his "Preemptive Strike Oatmeal", it will keep you regular next week today.
:)
Buahaha
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New route yesterday - Apostrophe 5.3R
One hidden bolt. Without the bolt, the route would be 5.3X
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47858992771_2dbb4f730a_z.jpg)
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Busy day yesterday (shocking eh?) but the weather was glorious.
We talked to a bunch of climbers in the west side parking lot and a few in the High Peaks.
We finished the route I started on Thursday. It turned out decent.
Sore and resting today.
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Doesn't anyone talk about climbing at Pinns anymore?
I know clink hasn't been on the crud since we did Ribbit and Croak.
What's everybody else's excuse? :lol:
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Doesn't anyone talk about climbing at Pinns anymore?
I know clink hasn't been on the crud since we did Ribbit and Croak.
What's everybody else's excuse? :lol:
Excuses.
- I'm old;
- I live too far away;
- I'm tired of the drive (for this season);
- I'm really into my game right now;
- Gavin makes me climb too hard without a warmup;
- You and Kat make me do extreme and obscure things;
- I'm catching up on chainsawing and brushwork that I let go all season;
- I'm ugly;
- It's past Pinnacles season (in spite of what Mother N is seeming to try to say).
Love you. Mean it.
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Sled season isn't over.
:)
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Sled season isn't over.
:)
Who's got control of the website? Can we change his name to "Mungemobiler?" GAWWWD, the single lamest excuse EVER.
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Well brother Munge has a point as there is still a lot of snow.
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the single lamest excuse EVER.
:)
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Mowed the yard
Drove people around
Rototiller the beds
laundry
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Work
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Only one thing to say... Did or did it not snow all the way down to miwuk? ...again...
Lol
Crazy year. Wonderful fun!
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I guess I won't expect to see any of you the next few days then.
Bound for crud... :arf: :ihih:
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I'll be out briefly on Thursday or Friday - West Side - with the grandson of Bill (Bad Bolts) Hunt. I plan to touch some very familiar bases with him.
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The excuse for almost all of the "season" was rain. Now that it isn't raining my mind goes to higher elevations...
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Now that it isn't raining my mind goes to higher elevations...
Where is is raining....
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The excuse for almost all of the "season" was rain. Now that it isn't raining my mind goes to higher elevations...
Well la dee da :rolleyes: :yesnod: :out: :ciappa:
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Lol, Cook
Waldo, have fun!
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Where it is raining....
Oh the irony
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WTF? Are folks out climbing?
Is the snow melting up there?
Will Mr. Mud find his right footed shoes?
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Pass opened at 2:00 pm today.
La tee da,
M
;)
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Pass opened at 2:00 pm today.
Get up there and piss on the snow to melt it...
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Crossover post.
Just spent the last 3 days pounding on and getting pummeled by crud. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :lol:
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Invalid without pictures....
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Invalid without pictures....
Kat and I spent the day at Peace of Heaven on Wednesday.
The flies were awful.
The climb wasn't too bad and now it is completely rebolted.
Both of the lead bolts were in some nasty, crumbly recesses that made it especially difficult to get the tuning fork under the star dryvin nails. I had to do significant amounts of carving down and around both bolt locations to get the old stuff out, create proper surfaces for the replacements and allow the draws to hang correctly. The nail on the first lead bolt was under-driven but the hanger was tight and both nails were unusually difficult to extract (surprising given the lousy rock quality). It was a similar situation on the summit with the old, single-bolt anchor. I could write a book about all the things I have learned rebolting.
Here is a composite of photos showing in clockwise order the old first bolt (straight on), from the side (to show the protruding nail), the replacement bolt and the replacement anchor with chains. The second replacement lead bolt is not shown but is every bit as pretty as the first.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47979617638_74983edbb2_z.jpg)
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Gorgeous!
Bad flies, but how about the heat?
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Gorgeous!
Bad flies, but how about the heat?
Thanks. It took all day.
Temps weren't bad (perfect for flies) - mid 70's Wednesday and mid 80's Thursday and yesterday.
Nice and cool at night. A bit noisy in camp Wednesday night but quiet Thursday.
Nice breezes both day and night.
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Spontaneous Generation
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Spontaneous Generation
You need to get back to roots dude.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4441/36397088083_769c85b2d6_z.jpg)
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Frick and Frack?
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Frick and Frack?
Meanderthal and Bill Bored
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Just about got my arse handed to me on Flames Face today.
I thought I was going to fall off two or three times and the falls would not have been pretty.
Sustained, pumpy, crimpy and not well protected through the hard parts. Multiple cushy stances in the runouts with no bolts.
It's been a while since I rebolted it and I figured today was the day.
I can see why that person Zay observed took that huge whipper.
You could take a 50 to 60 foot fall (maybe more) getting to the anchor from the last bolt.
I was also able to go over and confirm that the upper mid-anchor on Lichen to Lead was replaced at some unknown date.
Carbon 5 pc with Fixe hangers (Mucci's work maybe?). With the bolts I replaced recently, that route is in fine shape from bottom to top now.
I also discovered that it is more fun to climb into the humongous sling knobs on the last part of that climb from the new route I put up on Mother's Day - starting from the Where the Sun Don't Shine anchor.
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Sounds like fun.
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Sounds like fun.
Yeah, especially the "just about" part.
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Sounds like fun.
In a sick, masochistic sort of way. Good route to rec to someone you don't like :yesnod: :thumbup: :devildevil:
Yeah, especially the "just about" part.
If I hadn't been able to find some stances to rest after making the dicier moves, I would have been off for sure.
Forearms were flamed out.
Bolting pattern is very inconsistent - goes from crazy to chicken fries.
I didn't replace bolt 3 when I rebolted, since it looked off route and unnecessary (really close height-wise to 4).
I decided to wait and see how it was on lead.
I was so focused on getting to bolt 4 before I completely flamed out that I didn't even see the old bolt (it's that far off the natural line). It is too far left (looks off route on the topo), like whoever had the bolt bag tried to go that way and then changed their mind (the rock out that way looked awful when I was rebolting). Bolts 4 and 5 are also really close together. Bolt 6 resumes the wide spacing and then the runout to the anchor.
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In a sick, masochistic sort of way.
AKA type II fun.
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AKA type II fun.
Is there level III fun?
Even looking back months from now or even years I seriously doubt I will remember this one as fun.
Just another - "glad I don't ever have to do that again" - a shame really - but so typical of so many Pinnacles routes :incazzato:
On the plus side - the FA party never did another route. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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What date was the FA done?
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What date was the FA done?
February 1985
Robin Riner and Chuck Coon
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What date was the FA done?
And which were the FA party wearing Boxers or Breifs?
Munge, I mean a friend needs to know.
Also what position was the moon in? Waxing or Waning?
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Is there level III fun?
I am only familiar with type 1 and 2
Type one is: We went car camping in Yosemite. We cooked some burgers, drank some beers, looked at some rocks while eating ice cream, rode that tourist green trailer thingy and were back at work totally rested on Monday. Boy was that fun!
Type two is: Remember that time we backpacked 125 miles in five days in a record snow year? Remember on the 4th day when my feet were totally macerated and my toenails fell off. It hurt to walk for weeks! Man that was so much fun! I can't wait to do it again!
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Type III, do we even want to know?
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Type II are routes are my favorites. We need more of this type. Who remembers the perfect route. Yeah, it might be absolutely fantastic, but what was there to be remembered.
Type II routes forever.
So I am starting a new line up here. It shares the start with another route. I humped all my crap up there, 50 feet away from the start a dozen cantaloupe sized rocks come bounding down the corner from up high so I run off to the left to avoid the excitement. Should I start a new line out left under an over hang so I can play it safe? The new line would have a cool start and some good climbing. I guess next time I will pack the helmet.
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Ticks up here... AAACCcckkkkk
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Here too. After I came home from running @ laurelwood last night I was chopping some vegetables for dinner. Looked down at chopping board and noticed two ticks. Must've fell out my hair or something. They got minced.
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Here too. After I came home from running @ laurelwood last night I was chopping some vegetables for dinner. Looked down at chopping board and noticed two ticks. Must've fell out my hair or something. They got minced.
I prefer my ticks on the half shell.
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Yeah, I kinda like mine in someone else ;D
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Yeah, I kinda like mine in someone else ;D
So...Cannibal style. I think that is on the secret menu at In-N-Out.
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I see everybody took a break around 4:20...dude...
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Speaking of tics, Noal is a lunatic, Mud is a fellow escapee, and speaking of type ll they are two of a type that may be diagnosable.
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^^^
Pot/kettle in all described categories.
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I am totally normal. Everybody else is crazy.
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I am totally normal. Everybody else is crazy.
Holy crap, you're becoming Mr Mud. With him the saying is more like "my ratings are just right, everyone else is soft." I can just about imitate his voice while I say it.
The only clear conclusion from this conversation is that it is I that is surrounded by freaks.
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Abinormal, was the,donors brain in young Frankenstein. Fitting for this crowd.
I’ll never forget picking up mr mud one morning, the look in his eyes!!!
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That was the look of a lack of caffeine, or perhaps, too much.
So Noal, that is the secret in the secret sauce?!
The other day I had a bit of a stiff neck, then I realized I had two ticks imbedded the in the back of my skull. I hate it when that happens.
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So Noal, that is the secret in the secret sauce?!
That would be cool, but as always the secret in secret sauces (and pastries) is usually.........butter or heavy cream.
I realized I had two ticks imbedded the in the back of my skull. I hate it when that happens
How did you remove them? Fire? Curling iron?
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The only clear conclusion from this conversation is that it is I that is surrounded by freaks.
:D
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That would be cool, but as always the secret in secret sauces (and pastries) is usually.........butter or heavy cream.
How did you remove them? Fire? Curling iron?
I was able to get a hold of them and gently pull until they let go.
Heavy cream is also the key to sultry coffee.
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Mungie is Mr tick man!
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After 100's of times walking past it, I finally led Heffalump today.
Cool climb - definitely star worthy in my book. Old school cool as NOAL once said.
It protects well and has;
good rock
fun, interesting and thoughtful movement
cool holds
an adventure factor
history
I'd climb it again and Kat liked it too! :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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surprisingly good.
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Pinnacles, the land of the freaks and the home of the brave.
Brad, you are one of the freakier freaks. Everyone here has done something that the rest would be I'll advised to repeat.
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Clink all of my climbs are 4 scarred
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Everyone here has done something that the rest would be I'll advised to repeat.
Of the best company I've ever kept.
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True there Mungie old pal, who corrupted me with a visit to the high peaks.
And introduced me to the bearded guy with glasses.
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Everyone here has done something that the rest would be I'll advised to repeat.
Nope, I say go for it.
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Got two climbs mostly done above Deadman Curves today (at 8,500 feet - God I'd forgotten how gorgeous the Sierra is).
They share a start. Gonna call them "Jan" and "Dean."
I hope more of you than just Mr Cultural Attache get that one.
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Watergate theme?
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I will need to buy more than a clue
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I will need to buy more than a clue
He's one clue for free:
"I was cruisin' in my Stingray late one night
When an XKE pulled up on the right
He rolled down the window of his shiny new Jag
And challenged me then and there to a drag
I said "You're on buddy -- my mill's running fine
Let's come off the line now at Sunset and Vine
But I'll go you one better, if you've got the nerve
Let's race all the way -- to Dead Man's Curve"
is no place to play
(Dead Man's Curve) you'd best keep away
(Dead Man's Curve) I can hear 'em say
"Won't come back from Dead Man's Curve"
The street was deserted late Friday night
We were buggin' each other while we sat out the light
We both popped the clutch when the light turned green
You shoulda heard the whine from my screamin' machine!"
If you don't get it now I'll have to sing it for you.
Actually, maybe I'll have to sing it for you. Although J.C. may be the only one who can get the name thing effortlessly, he'll also want to kill me for posting about a place other than Pinns on this thread.
Which reminds me: if you guys don't hear from me in a while, you know where to start looking....
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No body.
No crime.
Had a fabulous day with Gavin today.
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surprisingly good.
Couldn't agree more :biggrin:
Above the first couple cruxes in the Heffalump chimney section.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024984631_e25b602d34_z.jpg)
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Had a fabulous day with Gavin today.
A bit sore today after hanging on a knob to drill a difficult bolt and set Gavin up - again :ihih:
I managed to set him up last time too :devildevil:
We got past the hardest section yesterday. Can't wait to get back out there!
On a side note, the flies seemed a bit less yesterday.
One did manage to land on my ankle and crawl up my pant leg (unbeknownst at first to me).
I think it was actually flying around a little in there - a very weird sensation.
With triple digits approaching again, maybe they will be hurried toward the end of their life cycle.
Wait...gotta go...I think I smell shoo fly pie :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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With triple digits approaching again, maybe they will be hurried toward the end of their life cycle.
With temps like that I wonder whether you're talking about you, or the flies?
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clink - this bump is for you! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4441/36397088083_769c85b2d6_z.jpg)
Summit of Behemoth 6-4-17
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You 2 guys should wear matching shirts...
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Thanks for the pic and great memories of that one
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I'll have to sing it for you.
I get it, I get it , I get it
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I had a dream last night, part of it was that Fletcher led 40 days of Rain. He was explaining how difficult the moves were to get to the lip. After that it was pretty easy for him, the mantle etc. :)
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I had a dream last night, part of it was that Fletcher led 40 days of Rain. He was explaining how difficult the moves were to get to the lip. After that it was pretty easy for him, the mantle etc. :)
I bet you were hanging on his every word :out: :ciappa: :arf:
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40 days is easy, pull on the large holds....
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JC, after seeing your pic, I had to dig out my Richards and look. I first lumped the Heff on November 11th, 1977. I apparently found wired stoppers to be useful.
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Moves to the lip are not bad. It's the crumbly crimp after the mantel
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crumbly crimp
That's got to be a route name!
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Moves to the lip are not bad. It's the crumbly crimp after the mantel
I spent many years snatching crumbs, so I really have no interest in crimping them (or snatching any more of them).
For the aspiring dirt bag that lives at Pinnacles year round (in a van of course).
Crumb Bum
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I got a real treat last night after dinner at beano's house.
Jesse invited me for a short ride in his plane.
We took off from Watsonville and buzzed the fault line for a bit in the direction of Pinnacles (Quest for Mud).
The sun was just setting, so we turned toward Fremont peak and flew out to the big water over Elkhorn Slough.
There were some amazing drainage patterns exposed by low tide.
We came back up the coast with the sunset colors on our left and the beaches on our right.
We buzzed my house before turning back to the airport.
Super slick setup. My first time in a little plane.
I'll make sure I take a camera when we go up again. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin: :arf:
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JC, after seeing your pic, I had to dig out my Richards and look. I first lumped the Heff on November 11th, 1977. I apparently found wired stoppers to be useful.
11-11-77, interesting date. I was riding my motorcycle in freezing temps to Frankfort on a temp job assembling large, modular file cabinets in the capitol building, still smoking and unbeknownst to me...developing a serious case of mononucleosis. But that is a different story...altogether...
There are lots of good gear placements. I really liked the offset aliens in the pin scars.
I was able to sew it up and protect the traverse (for my follower).
yellow alien x2, offset aliens (red/yellow, yellow/green, green,blue), 0.5, 1, 3(x2) camalots. A 3 tricam should also work in the horizontal on the traverse, instead of a second #3 camalot.
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Life is not possible without yellow aliens.
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Life is not possible without yellow aliens.
My favorite small cam :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Life is not possible without yellow aliens.
Rubbish. For many, many years just having friends was enough ::)
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Some friends get sticky!
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Some friends get sticky!
Especially in this weather. :rolleyes:
Or did you misspell?
Icky?
Prickly?
Picky?
Persnickety?
Panicky?
Tricky?
Plasticky?
Gimmicky?
Finnicky?
Frolicky?
Staticky?
Garlicky?
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Rubbish. For many, many years just having friends was enough ::)
Though some can be overly rigid.
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Though some can be overly rigid.
Excellent point.
One of my #1 friends is so rigid that climbing in the Sierra Nevada seems out of the question.
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some are too flexible
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And Squeaky....
Some never shave!!
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There are medications now for all of the above. We have come so far from when I started with nuts and a long dong.
The long dong was useful at meal prep as well.
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I started with nuts and a long dong.
omg the places I could go with this :lol:
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omg the places I could go with this :lol:
Lemme get this straight: you want to go places with Clink's Long Dong?
Mr Mud, is there any way I can get off of this site???
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Mr Mud, is there any way I can get off of this site???
Nope, it is like the Hotel California
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I started with nuts and a long dong.
omg the places I could go with this :lol:
clink probably thought he was setting me up. The devil ya know... :devildevil: :ihih:
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The long dong was useful at meal prep as well.
I had one once but have misplaced it.
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Mr Mud, is there any way I can get off of this site???
We need you Brad.
Otherwise Mr Mud will run amoke.
And JC will start Rap bolting.
Noal.....
How do I post up a Ytube link?
I want to post up the Monty Python's your no fun anymore/man turned into scotsman
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On the far left over the emoticons there is a YouTube tab.
Paste just the letters and numbers after the forward slash.
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Noal.....
How do I post up a Ytube link?
I want to post up the Monty Python's your no fun anymore/man turned into scotsman
Says the Mayor of Simpleton :lol: :ciappa:
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Do these boots make my butt look big?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064714722_b43b548db7_z.jpg)
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Says the Mayor of Simpleton
I resemble that comment!!
That route looks nice, little bulge.
Hint: bump the left foot up a bit more.
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Hint: bump the left foot up a bit more.
I passed along the message and it looks like it is working!
Are the boots better now too? :idea: :out: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064854067_236acd1d31_z.jpg)
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Nice pics! Second shot really looks like a trip to the proctologist is in order.
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Nice pics! Second shot really looks like a trip to the proctologist is in order.
Thanks dude. Kat was our "on the spot" photographer and even got some cool, short video clips.
I was waiting for someone to comment on those boots in the second one.
Looks like someone is all the way in (ouch!). Reminds me of one of your route names :lol:
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OMFG. I’m utterly, utterly surrounded by freaks.
(Although that was one of the best rejoinders ever.)
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I liked this one because of the shadow and position - as we were putting the finishing touches on the route :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064819487_bfed8df915_z.jpg)
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Great pics
Your noggin makes your butt look small
:)
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On the far left over the emoticons there is a YouTube tab.
Paste just the letters and numbers after the forward slash.
Okay...I'll play. WARNING - this is 3 plus minutes you will never get back! :lol:
Here's a few minutes through the 5.8 bulge. It ends with me clipping the bolt to start up to the 5.9 bulge. :ihih:
If you want full screen (much better but seems to be unsupported here) go here
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Nice job.
I like that photo with the bird. That bird looks big. Real big.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064819487_bfed8df915_z.jpg)
Nice Pic
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Looks like some nice rock. How did the route turn out?
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Looks like some nice rock. How did the route turn out?
Really fun.
8 bolts in 95 feet with 3 distinct cruxes (7c, 8 and 9) over 3 bulges, followed by another 85 feet and 3 more bolts with some 5.5 and 5.6 climbing.
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Gavin in the 8 section
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079821448_a2fa1514ba_z.jpg)
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Gotta give Gavin his props. The video stops after he clips bolt 7 in the 5.9 crux section. Those moves after reaching the joy knob are...well...money $$ :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
Definitely worth it to go full screen (which doesn't seem to be supported here) - go to
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Cool!
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Today was a little toasty but Gavin and I went out anyway.
He eyeballed the line, set me up and graciously sent me up to top out the route.
It was all his fault.
Okay,,,okay I'll take some of the blame.
I set him up first.
Scapegoat 5.7*
Details later :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Yep, it was a fun day getting Scapegoat started and finished.
To be fair, I kind of set myself up - by bypassing an easy stance to place a second bolt (added later) and going straight for a high placement of a 3rd bolt at the crux, while hanging off two hooks. But that 3rd bolt sure was nice for protecting the crux when John got the FFA!
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looks like a nice line
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looks like a nice line
Yeah, the 5.9 at Goat Rock turned out well. It is the last of three lines that I had been eyeing for some time, the three shallow water chutes to the left of Embraceable You. I finished up the other two routes earlier this year; it was great to work with John and get the final route completed.
That adds 3 new routes to Goat Rock - two 180-foot 5.9's, and a 155-foot 5.10a. All of them have great rock and movement. All the routes are 2-star quality, with the 5.10a perhaps even better. The climbs make for a fun day up in that area, especially given the other new stuff (e.g. at Satyr) in the area too.
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Will have to check the new routes out when I get back to climbing.
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Will have to check the new routes out when I get back to climbing.
I didn't know the Chance Brothers climbed.
Kat and I thoroughly enjoyed the summer solstice with a couple days at Pinns.
We had quite the adventure today following in the footsteps of a giant. A stance climbing maniac really. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
I led Embraceable You at Goat Rock. 4 lead bolts and a mid-anchor in 240 feet of climbing. :yikes:
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We had quite the adventure today following in the footsteps of a giant. A stance climbing maniac really. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
I led Embraceable You at Goat Rock. 4 lead bolts and a mid-anchor in 240 feet of climbing. :yikes:
Did you note the ramp leading right from the mid-anchor belay? Holmgren gave me a nod to turn that into a variation of the 2nd pitch - if I can still get up the first pitch, that is.
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Did you note the ramp leading right from the mid-anchor belay? Holmgren gave me a nod to turn that into a variation of the 2nd pitch - if I can still get up the first pitch, that is.
I looked at it repeatedly from across the way and below yesterday (a lot of trips out there lately). I discovered it the hard way. Climbing up past the second bolt on p1, I slung a prominent knob to protect the moves to the anchor (which I could not see from below). I was lured by the ramp to the right (LOLR) and climbed over that way and up a bit - looking for the anchor. It was at that point I realized the anchor was over to the left, across a nasty-looking section of face (not great rock, bulging and thin). I had to use some trickery to get back over there. Luckily there was a big knob above me on the left. I slung that to protect the left traverse and difficult/long reach to the upper anchor bolt. Once clipped, I took the sling off and made a scary/exposed step through series of moves to reach the anchor - whew! :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:
I was tempted to place a first bolt and get the variation started after realizing my predicament but I was evidently more determined to get back on track and finish the old route. I remembered you mentioning Jack giving you the go ahead on the variation.
I was leading with my bolt bag just in case. I drilled a replacement bolt at the anchor before bringing Kat up and continuing onto the second pitch. I had a really hard time seeing the bolts on pitch 2. The sun was glaring and the bolts had stainless SMC hangers. Those hangers can be so hard to see against the gray, lichen-covered rock. The first bolt isn't too far off the belay (stance after 20 feet). I could see its profile from the belay but still had a hard time finding it once I cast off. I had all but given up on finding the second bolt, when I finally spied it along what I perceived as the natural line - but not the LOLR. That second bolt is easily 50 feet from the first one. Both lead bolts on p2 are stars with stainless SMC hangers - so the stars are pretty rusty from the mixed metal - the hangers are still shiny (but they have a tiny footprint). The lead bolts and mid-anchor bolts are all stars with Leepers - rusty hangers and sleeves with no rust on the nail heads. All the bolts are tight and some appear to have glue residue showing. Bruce has warned me about glued-in stars on Holmgren routes.
It looked like that initial section up the variation might go with a couple bolts (and definitely lead to easier ground) but the rock didn't feel or look all that great (first impression). There is also a bulge/lip to get past.
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I led that first pitch a couple of times and recall thinking that it was a pretty stern 5.8. Did you find places for a a wired stopper or two? I seem to recall those, as well. I have no recollection at all of the second pitch! Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!
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I led that first pitch a couple of times and recall thinking that it was a pretty stern 5.8. Did you find places for a a wired stopper or two? I seem to recall those, as well. I have no recollection at all of the second pitch! Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!
So weird that you say that. Rubine shows nuts and tricams before the first bolt on his topo. Unless there is something between lodestones that I missed, there is nothing. I would have gladly welcomed something. Kat did not see anything either. It is 60 feet of 4th and easy 5th higher to a grassy hummock at the base of the actual chute. That is followed by a committing potential death fall section of 5.6 or 5.7 for another 15 feet to the first bolt. A fall between bolt 2 and the anchor would be UGLY! The first pitch is 105 feet. The second is 135 feet with a bolt at 20 feet, 70 feet and then run to the top with a few sling knobs. Those were definitely different times. The new routes are really nice with plenty of spice. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
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Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.
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Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!
Thanks! Yeah, I'm pleased with the 3 new Goat routes, and glad that my vision of them held up with excellent rock, fun sequences, and the length of each climb. There is now a great combination of climbs to be done in the Goat Rock area.
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Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.
I was raised by wolves.
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Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.
The ones who look up and down turn out to be climbers.
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The ones who look up and down turn out to be climbers.
I generally try not to look down unless it is absolutely necessary :frown2: :crazy: :arf:
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The weather is cooling down again this week and it's also fire season. No more campfires at Pinns.
The YNP fire crew was at Pinns last week improving defensible space.
They did some really nice work.
I am going to take a rake down this week and see what I can do to help. :idea: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Quote of Johnny to Mauro last Friday when we were up in the air a bit putting in a high and heavy beam.
"Don't worry, the ground will break your fall"
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The ground breaks everything.
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Everything can be broken.
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The ground breaks everything.
Sudden Deceleration Syndrome
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JC, bummer to hear the fire pits are locked.
start by raking carpet cleaner.
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JC, bummer to hear the fire pits are locked.
start by raking carpet cleaner.
:lol:
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We just spent the last 3 days climbing at Pinns.
The weather was particularly nice yesterday with complete overcast and a high of only 81.
Wednesday I finally led Flip-a-Coin Chimney. Cool climb with good pro. Two piton scars take offset aliens (yellow/red, then yellow/ green). Other pieces I got in were a #4 and #5 camalot, a red alien, and a #6 (not great but okay flaring placement). You could skip the #6 if you're okay pulling the crux with a buried offset (the yellow/green offset). There is a decent sling knob on the chimney flake/arete toward the top. I pulled some rotten, shredded red webbing with a cool old corded #8 stopper (no brand) from the crack by the scrub oak near the tunnel-through exit. Looked like someone used it to rappel years ago even though the climb is a walk off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154160316_e57720a7ea_z.jpg)
Thursday I had the pleasure of leading the last of the new routes on Goat Rock - Sheep Sheer 10a**
Here's a couple pics
Stance for the crux clip (I've got it clipped - whew!)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154244672_1738bbb6c6_z.jpg)
Reaching the upper holds above the crux to crank the lip - HUGE thanks to Kat for the pics and Gavin for the encouragement and the belay.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154160621_e363efddc2_z.jpg)
We ended the day with some simul bolting :idea: to get a new, easier route rolling :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154161151_3e7931e92a_z.jpg)
Yesterday we took it easy with a couple casual FA's and a little rebolting. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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I want to thank Gavin again for the fine new routes.
Nice lines, bolts right where you want them -but spicy! :devildevil: and highest quality workmanship.
You will want to thank him too - when you climb them. :ihih:
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Vicki is a saint.
I should also thank Kat and remember that she too is a saint and a trooper. :aureola:
She has probably led and followed more Pinnacles routes than any woman alive :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
We celebrated 22 years together - yesterday and today(maybe tomorrow too :D).
Our 19th anniversary of moving to CA is in a couple weeks. :guitar: :blahblah: :arf:
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Yeah, the weather earlier this week was so mild - as JC and KC said, it didn't feel like late June!
Great effort by JC onsighting the 5.10a at Goat Rock - it was impressive to watch him push through the thin and committing moves of the cruxes!
Glad you two celebrated your anniversary in style at Pinnacles!
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Happy anniversary to KC & JC :guitar: :guitar:
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I would had loved to see that lead. I suggested that JC get "Mr. 5.10" tattooed on his ass. His response was cheeky.
If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts, we might even get a glimpse of the tattoo during crux stemming moves.
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I would had loved to see that lead. I suggested that JC get "Mr. 5.10" tattooed on his ass. His response was cheeky.
If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts, we might even get a glimpse of the tattoo during crux stemming moves.
:ciappa: :ciappa: :ciappa:
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If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts...
That's not gonna happen, even in your wildest dreams.
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cool pics on Sheep Sheer. nice!
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I thought Jim was Mr 5.10....then again, Mr Mud getting that inked on his ass...priceless.
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cool pics on Sheep Sheer. nice!
Thanks to Tuff Chik.
Here's a mid-foot shot in the next bulge (5.9)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163251727_f2f82c69bf_z.jpg)
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You gotta bump them feet up...
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I thought Jim was Mr 5.10....then again, Mr Mud getting that inked on his ass...priceless.
I've never been, nor will I ever be Mr 5.10
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You gotta bump them feet up...
That's what I'm doin' dude. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
That section is fun!
Sheep Sheer starts with a 10a bulge followed by this^^^ 9.
Goat Riddance starts with a 5.7 bulge and then a 9.
Forgive and Forgoat starts with a 7, then a tricky and sustained 8, followed by a burly 9.
They are all quite tasty for cabrito :biggrin:
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Nice looking route.
Congrats on the lead and the anniversaries
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Nice looking route.
Congrats on the lead and the anniversaries
Thanks Mud. You would/will? like the routes.
Noal could also add them to his traxion circuit :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
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Goatmeal, your breakfast masterpiece.
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Today was a friggin' blast.
We established a 4th new route at Goat Rock.
We were a party of four.
Gavin and I both drilled 4 bolts apiece.
The climb is 140 feet long.
All on the Fourth of July!
I think that is rather fortuitous.
The only thing that could have possibly been better would have been a 5.4 rating :lol:
Days seriously do not get any better than this :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih: :devildevil:
Four Goats' Sake 5.6**
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Did you name it "Meet Pie, the Sheep"?
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I think that is rather fortuitous.
You mean "four-tuitous," right? ;)
It was indeed a fun day. We finished things up at Goat Rock in style, with some great new climbs for folks to explore in the (hopefully near) future.
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4th goats sake!
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Sounds like it was a great birthday!
But who were the rest of the "four?" I'd expect the two spouses?
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Today was a friggin' blast.
We established a 4th new route at Goat Rock.
We were a party of four.
Gavin and I both drilled 4 bolts apiece.
The climb is 140 feet long.
All on the Fourth of July!
I think that is rather fortuitous.
The only thing that could have possibly been better would have been a 5.4 rating :lol:
Days seriously do not get any better than this :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih: :devildevil:
Four Goats' Sake 5.6**
Hammer bangs are my favorite kind of fireworks! Great work, gentlemen!
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Sounds like it was a great birthday!
But who were the rest of the "four?" I'd expect the two spouses?
Nah - we just picked up some high school cuties in the parking lot :nonod: :frown2: :out: :crazy:
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Great to hang and work with Gavin and Alacia yesterday. Bonus - Alacia takes some nice pics :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
JC leads Four Goats' Sake
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205174556_424ed5586d_z.jpg)
KC follows Four Goats' Sake
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205227027_c27fde87b1_z.jpg)
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Nah - we just picked up some high school cuties in the parking lot :nonod: :frown2: :out: :crazy:
I see. So you've been offering rides on your unicycle again?
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With all the new routes, Goat Rock is like a drive-in movie screen for hikers in the High Peaks. It would be a ton of fun to get a crowd of Masters leading the routes at PCAD for a guidebook photo.
Kat and Alacia were shivering at the belay yesterday, while Gavin and I simul-drilled (yes, that's a thing now - part of the new, new way). Even though we were stance bolting in the sun, we got started early enough that it really was not hot - with a nice breeze.
JC and Gavin simul-drilling bolts 7 and 8 on Four Goats' Sake
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205902517_e92ec57607_z.jpg)
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Today was a friggin' blast.
We established a 4th new route at Goat Rock.
We were a party of four.
Gavin and I both drilled 4 bolts apiece.
The climb is 140 feet long.
All on the Fourth of July!
I forgot about the 4 letter words uttered at various times during the day.
I had a four foot sling over my shoulder.
My giant fourhead was present.
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Today I finally got back up to Voyeur Wall and got the FA on Rug Burn (5.11b **), the route to the left of Cutting The Rug. There is a lot of 5.11 climbing on that route, mostly in the 11a range, but the final wide stemming moves near the top are definitely harder and in the 11b range. I decided to add one more lead bolt (bringing the total to 10 lead bolts), so that it makes use of the anchor for Cutting The Rug rather than adding a new one.
It's a really nice climb with very good rock overall, and I have to recognize DES and Noal for the work they did on it, placing bolts in great locations for protecting a leader from falls. I definitely felt more comfortable committing to the hard sequences given the bolt placement.
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Good job Noal keeping mr mud honest.
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Today I finally got back up to Voyeur Wall and got the FA on Rug Burn (5.11b **)
Nicely done Gavin.
Sorry I missed it but I doubt I would have been much help :frown2: :eeeek: :nonod: :arf:
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Congrats! Good to see that is done.
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Great work, Gavin!
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Dang, look at u guys, crudding straight thru the summer. Hope the mild weather holds up. Let's get 999 people on goat rock for the guidebook photo. Simul-TR? heheheh
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All drinking goat's milk.
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Dang, look at u guys, crudding straight thru the summer. Hope the mild weather holds up. Let's get 999 people on goat rock for the guidebook photo. Simul-TR? heheheh
Yes, we are still climbing and the weather has been wonderful.
Kat and I just spent two days at Pinns - we spent time with the trails crew supervisor identifying needed climber access signage and some other potential work projects for PCAD.
We took time out from our busy schedule to climb 4 routes (1 new and 3 old) and rebolted an anchor. :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
Are you suggesting we employ a herd mentality for the guidebook photos?
TR you say? Nah...only leaders will be photographed simultaneously. Anything else would be baaaaaad form imo.
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All drinking goat's milk.
Now that scares me.
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Here's a couple shots from yesterday at Popcorn Pinnacle.
The North Corner 5.8R - the nasty fall below the start (a reachy, bouldery crux) is not shown :frown2: :eeeek: :crazy: :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48254351076_6980bba408_z.jpg)
The replacement anchor on Popcorn.
Positioning bolts for anchors in an up/down configuration has become my preferred/favorite combo :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48254334011_b2df6ea4db_z.jpg)
My trusty partner :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48254424242_0ddf15387b_z.jpg)
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JC at the summit of Popcorn Pinnacle - taken by Brad the day I led the squeeze chimney route (3-18-19).
I already had the rope down to do a Pinnacles rappel - I did not replace the anchor that day.
Notice how the God Beams missed me? :devildevil:
The 5.8R goes up a bit left of where the rope is dangling (starts off the far left end of the boulder). You still can't see the nasty drop off. :eeeek:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48259965242_1de3bc3243_z.jpg)
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The quest may or may not continue his week.
The low for the week looks like 86 on Friday.
Perfectly acceptable for an early morning quest - then again... the idea may already be 86'ed.
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gangster hot out there.
sph!
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And, it will just get hotter.
https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/07/16/more-100-degree-days-likely-in-coming-years-new-study-finds/
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And, it will just get hotter.
https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/07/16/more-100-degree-days-likely-in-coming-years-new-study-finds/
Knuckle draggers want me to subscribe to read this shocking news. :lol:
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Well the Mercury News is a far superior paper than the Santa Cruz Sentinal.
It might do you some good.
Clink could have a read while belaying you.