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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Bruce Hildenbrand on November 28, 2017, 09:39:39 AM

Title: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: Bruce Hildenbrand on November 28, 2017, 09:39:39 AM
Tom Higgins and Chris Vandiver put up the first ascent of Shake and Bake 40 years ago in 1976. This was an historic ascent being the first route to tackle the ominously foreboding and steep water streaks of the Balconies.

I reached out to Tom and asked if he could pen a narrative of this groundbreaking climb. See the link below for his account.

http://pinnacles.org/news/show-news.php?news_id=261
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: squiddo on November 28, 2017, 09:55:33 AM
thanks bruce
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: F4? on November 28, 2017, 02:57:44 PM
Great read!

Such a wonderful route.

Great to hear Bruce and Clint replaced the remaining bolts. That will make it easier to spot the bolts. Unless you are Joe who does not need to clip all of the bolts!
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: Brad Young on November 28, 2017, 03:27:41 PM
Excellent!

Glad I've led the route and equally glad that I never have to lead it again.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mynameismud on November 28, 2017, 04:52:26 PM
Nice read.
Thanks
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: Brad Young on November 28, 2017, 04:55:53 PM

Nice read.
Thanks


^^^^

Hey you. Your post reminded me: That's where I met you, at the base of Shake and Bake, with Clint. Back in the last millennium   :D  ;D
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mynameismud on November 29, 2017, 08:04:18 AM
yep.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mungeclimber on November 29, 2017, 03:09:52 PM
the pic of Bruce Cooke all up in the groove makes me want to hurl a little just thinking about what it would be like.

Anyone want to lead it? I'll follow it.  :)
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mynameismud on November 29, 2017, 03:39:37 PM
the problem is we all suck so bad we all need a rope gun
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mungeclimber on November 29, 2017, 03:50:02 PM
the problem is we all suck so bad we all need a rope gun

working on training my nephews at age 3 and 6 respectively. If they fail out of the program, it will be like Star Wars and time to train their sister. Is 1 year old too young to start training for El Cap NIAD?
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mynameismud on November 29, 2017, 04:04:56 PM
Nope, start now.  Crawling around the block at an early age well serve her well in this endeavor.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: Brad Young on November 29, 2017, 04:31:04 PM

Nope, start now.  Crawling around the block at an early age well serve her well in this endeavor.


That's not too far off from how I trained my girls....
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: clink on November 29, 2017, 07:32:15 PM

 I love that Shake and Bake route, climbed it 3 times with partners Larry Martin, Geoff Norris and Caleb Rightmeyer.

 There is a bomber stopper placement at the first bulge on the second pitch. The stopper slots down between two loadstones that make a keyhole then you clip the bottom, A #1or2 friend was good in a slot near the top of pitch 3.

 I would like to climb it with the Cooks.

 Thanks for the post and work Bruce and Clint!
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: F4? on November 29, 2017, 07:38:15 PM
A couple notes on the route and other oddities from 10yrs ago with GoGo:
- Didn't Tom work on rope soloing BY, yeah sick!  :o
- 1st. Pitch is not bad, recommend leader clips the 1st bolt on the 2nd pitch. That gives the leader a TR to down climb to the belay.
-2nd at the crux. I remember it's a short steep section. You have a reach, where you back step and reach. Felt like a section of Hawaiian Noises or Subterranean Tango.
-3rd, no recollection, so it can't be that bad.  ???
-Use the secret rap off of Hook and Drill, so you only need 1 rope. Yeah, it's some walking.

Thank god the bolts were replaced as the old ones were faded and blended into the rock.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: squiddo on November 29, 2017, 07:42:42 PM
A couple notes on the route and other oddities from 10yrs ago with GoGo:
- Didn't Tom work on rope soloing BY, yeah sick!  :o
- 1st. Pitch is not bad, recommend leader clips the 1st bolt on the 2nd pitch. That gives the leader a TR to down climb to the belay.
-2nd at the crux. I remember it's a short steep section. You have a reach, where you back step and reach. Felt like a section of Hawaiian Noises or Subterranean Tango.
-3rd, no recollection, so it can't be that bad.  ???
-Use the secret rap off of Hook and Drill, so you only need 1 rope. Yeah, it's some walking.

Thank god the bolts were replaced as the old ones were faded and blended into the rock.

Get your wing fixed and we can climb it
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: F4? on November 29, 2017, 08:53:03 PM
I find out on the 19th after the 2nd MRI.

Yeah, then I'd like to get back on the climbing wagon and send it.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: Bruce Hildenbrand on December 01, 2017, 12:10:38 AM
Brian Biega, Dennis Erik Mr Mud, and Erik Bratton deserve a lot of credit for the rebolting.  You can read about that, with some pictures from 2009 and 2017, here:

http://pinnacles.org/news/show-news.php?news_id=262
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: clink on December 01, 2017, 09:53:46 AM
Bruce, those 3 will be recognized in the credits under rigging team 1 and 2 when Shake and Bake the movie is released.

Thanks Eric, Brian, D.E. Mr Mud for your work on this beautiful route!
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: F4? on December 01, 2017, 12:47:23 PM
More credit goes to Clint and Mr Mud..they were the poor sods who grinded out those massive 1/2" holes. Both hung in their harnesses for hours whacking away.
(too bad no selective hold brushing was done).
Clint, the savage, would whack away for an hour or two> stop> rappel down to his pack> take a sip of water and a nibble of chocolate> accent back to his hole> commence whacking away.
He did this for the entire day!

At sunset, Clint finally touched ground.

That was why the 1st pitch was not rebolted that weekend, not enough time.

Now, they also replaced some hangers on Eclectic Blue...so when I saw Chris at the gym afterwards I said someone removed bolts from his routes..paused...and replaced them with new ones!
H
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mynameismud on December 02, 2017, 04:45:43 PM
Yeah, Clint was up there all weekend
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mudworm on December 05, 2017, 05:55:08 PM
Is breaking rock still a valid and present concern climbing at the Balconies? Inspired by the FA story, I was planning to go up Shake 'n Bake as well as other routes with Mr. Mud on Saturday, but then he got crushed by the bug. I couldn't find anyone else to go to the Balconies with me. A climber specifically said that he didn't like the rock quality there (and he has done quite a few routes), so instead, we went to the Gold Wall.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: clink on December 05, 2017, 06:56:04 PM
Rock quality at the Balconies is fragile throughout. Some great holds and solid sections but then there are the ones that flex and the crusty areas. I thought you had climbed Shake and Bake with Ron a few years back.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: F4? on December 05, 2017, 06:56:57 PM
Shake n Bake is solid compared to others (Lava Falls is solid as well).

Maybe Clink or Squiddo would be up.

Or Mr Mud has to vist again when well.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: Brad Young on December 05, 2017, 07:57:40 PM

Rock quality at the Balconies is fragile throughout. Some great holds and solid sections but then there are the ones that flex and the crusty areas.


That's a fair summary. I'd also add that I agree with Factor; yes, Lava Falls and Shake and Bake are both cleaner and less brittle.

And damn Mudworm, Gold Wall on a weekend? Sorry to hear that you had to go through that.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: mudworm on December 05, 2017, 09:07:15 PM
I had in mind more routes than just Shake and Bake and Lava Falls though. Good to know an objective assessment of the rock quality. Mr. Mud just said, "well, they are all kind of brittle." (Edit: he didn't say the word "brittle;" he said "loose" instead.)

I thought you had climbed Shake and Bake with Ron a few years back.
I followed Ron, so it didn't count.

And damn Mudworm, Gold Wall on a weekend? Sorry to hear that you had to go through that.
Appreciate the sympathy, Brad. Well, as it turned out, crowd was not an issue. I was able to jump on an empty moderate (10c/d) when we arrived for warmup.  My partner skipped it and warmed up on an 11c. After that, it was a day of me following (5x12's include 2x12c and 1x12d) . I know there is no glory in following, but I was happy to have an opportunity to get strong on routes of those difficulties. Somehow, there was no wait on those routes. But I believe it would be a LOT nicer on a quiet weekday.

I'll send you an email offline, Brad.
Title: Re: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative
Post by: Brad Young on December 05, 2017, 09:22:59 PM

...I followed Ron, so it didn't count.


Such a wonderful sense of style. Love it!  ;)