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Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on November 18, 2008, 11:32:23 AM
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507.8 Pinnacle Seventeen A1 This “historic residual” climb is located in The Back Twenty.
The Back Twenty: The Back Twenty is a group of boulders, bumps and small to medium pinnacles located 100 to 300 yards northeast of The Flatiron. Reach them by walking slightly downhill, mostly brush-free from The Flatiron’s east side. In making this walk, smaller bumps of rock in open, easy terrain give way after 500 feet to slightly thicker brush and a band of 20 to 30 foot high pinnacles aligned roughly northwest to southeast (left to right). Larger pinnacles behind this band make up the bulk of The Back Twenty, but most of these are low-angle and/or have easy to reach summits. The area’s only climbing route is an obscure residual, having no known way to the summit other than a rope toss and prusik.
This Route: Pinnacle Seventeen is the rightmost rock in the band of 20 to 30 foot high pinnacles 500 feet northeast of The Flatiron. The formation’s southwest side (toward The Flatiron) is 20 feet high on the left, 30 feet high on the right, and becomes progressively more undercut to the right. The pinnacle’s most visible feature is its single summit bolt. This can be seen from the top of a rock band 60 feet to the southwest (toward The Flatiron). Look for one bolt on a somewhat triangular, white-rock summit. Although not visible from here, Pinnacle Seventeen’s northeast face is 15 feet high, but vertical, loose and fairly featureless. Its south side has a low-angle shoulder, but this leads to another short, steep, featureless face. Climb Pinnacle Seventeen by throwing a rope over the top and ascending it to the top. The toss is easiest to make from the back (northeast) side.
FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Careful, careful inspection of route with Jennifer Wang on December 14, 2019, and, after finding no other possibilities, an ascent by toss and prusik.
507.35 The Maze - High Point 5.0 An easy route to the highest point of a large but broken-up formation.
The Maze: The Maze is a cliff-like series of buttresses, gullies, alcoves and small pinnacles located north of The Flatiron and east of the High Peaks Trail. The area extends a little more than 100 yards south to north. Its downhill side is to the east. Its west/uphill side is notable for the many small pinnacles visible from the trail. Most of The Maze is dirty and mossy; parts are rotten and other parts are overhanging. One route reaches the highest point, at its southwest end.
This Route: The highest point of The Maze is easy to see from the approach trail to The Flatiron. Look north from about halfway out the trail. The south end of The Maze is all visible, including to the left (west) the highest point of the whole mass (it has two similarly sized summits). Walk to a short face that is right of the high point but to the left of two low notches. Easy class five over a noticeable foot-deep ledge leads six feet onto a low part of the south end. Turn left (northwest) and climb 50 feet to the high point (class three and four). There is no protection on this route and no top anchor. Descend by downclimbing. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Solo ascent of route on December 28, 2019.
507.42 The Right Honourable Robert 5.4 this route summits Peel Pinnacle, a complex formation in The South Platte.
The South Platte: The South Platte consists of a large number of boulders, pinnacles and rock-jumbles on the ridge crest, north of Photographer’s Delight, but south of Long’s Folly (listed below). The whole area is west of the High Peaks Trail. There is a huge amount of rock here; routes exist on three large pinnacles and three that are smaller. Also of note, although these rocks are just east/uphill from the Juniper Canyon Trail formation Pyramid Pinnacle, all of the pinnacles in The South Platte are steep to undercut on their west sides. It isn’t practical to move from Pyramid to The South Platte (or vice versa).
Peel Pinnacle: Peel Pinnacle is the southmost large formation in The South Platte (“large” in that, unlike rocks to its south, it is more than 25 feet high and requires more than a scramble to reach its top). Peel is located on the High Peaks ridge crest. It is 100 yards north of the High Peaks Trail switchback located 200 feet north of Photographer’s Delight. It is very easy to see Peel from that switchback and from other parts of the trail further south; the south side of its summit has large, easily visible patches of lichen (mostly orange, interspersed with bits of lime green). Although the pinnacle is easy to see from the south, it is best approached from the southeast. Make the right turn at the switchback north of Photographer’s (turn to the southeast). Continue past the next (left) switchback (and the exit to The Flatiron). After another 100 yards, immediately before two very closely spaced switchbacks, exit up and left, over a waist high rock step, to and then along the northeast sides of multiple small pinnacles. Angle northwest, gently uphill, to Peel Pinnacle’s south side, 250 feet from the trail. This side of the formation features a prominent two-foot thick, up-and-right band of slightly redder rock, and below that a wide up-and-right ramp. Two features are noticeable above the bottom of this ramp: a slab below a chute and a left-facing squeeze chimney.
This Route: The Right Honourable Robert starts below the chute on the south side of Peel Pinnacle. Climb a slab to the chute. Continue up the chute to the first bolt 30 feet above the ground. Reach a saddle of rock between summits before moving up and right to a sub-summit and a second bolt. Make a step-across onto Peel’s highest summit and a two-bolt anchor, 55 feet from the start. FA Party: Brad Young, Mark Fletcher. FA Date: December 27, 2019. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.43 Scurvy 5.4 Climb the left-facing squeeze chimney to the right of The Right Honourable Robert. The chimney leads to the sub-summit on that route and its second bolt. Finish on the summit. Protection consists of a one inch piece and the bolt. FA Party: Brad Young, Mark Fletcher. FA Date: December 27, 2019. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.5 Glad Stone 5.4 Glad Stone is a separate, prominent pinnacle located in the jumble of rock north of Peel Pinnacle. It is 60 feet north-northwest from Peel’s main (orange-lichened) summit, on a straight line between Peel and Sweet Marie Pinnacle (listed below). Glad Stone is slightly lower in elevation than Peel or Sweet Marie, but taller than anything else in between. Reach its summit in two short pitches. For pitch one, climb The Right Honourable Robert to its second bolt. Continue east from there, 20 feet down a small, class two ridge of rock. Turn left (west) to descend another class two ramp 30 feet to a mostly flat, grassy area. Belay from trees. Move to and up an east-facing slot (gear: small to 1½ inch) onto a shoulder of rock that is just below (southwest) of Glad Stone’s summit. Walk a few feet to the pinnacle’s upper west face and a two-bolt anchor six feet below its summit. Climb past the anchor to that summit. Descend by moving down to the anchor, rappelling 40 feet to the grassy area and then reversing to the top of Peel Pinnacle. Rappel again from there. FA Party: Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Kathy Cook, John Cook, Amber Fipps. FA Date: January 12, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.61 Half Platte 5.4 This mountaineering-style route reaches the top of Sweet Marie Pinnacle from far to the south.
Sweet Marie Pinnacle: Sweet Marie Pinnacle is a large, multi-multi-facetted formation located about midway south-to-north through The South Platte. It has one distinct high point and several subsidiary and maybe-subsidiary summits. The formation is complex and, from some directions, hard to access. Its west and east ends are overhanging to very overhanging. Sweet Marie’s north face is also steep to overhanging. Three routes reach Sweet Marie’s highest summit. One reaches it from the south by way of Peel Pinnacle and Glad Stone. A second starts on the High Peaks Trail and climbs along the south side of the formation’s east end. The other climbs the only real weakness in Sweet Marie’s north side. The south side route is listed first.
This Route: Start on the south side of Peel Pinnacle. Climb the route Glad Stone to its two-bolt end anchor. Move north and down 15 feet (a four inch piece is critical to protect the follower here). Continue north another 50 feet to the top of Sweet Marie Pinnacle, finishing at its two-bolt anchor. Descend by reversing the route or by rappelling off Sweet Marie’s north side (60 feet to the ground). FA Party: Brad Young, Bob Walton. FA Date: January 31, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.64 Slip’n Slide 5.3 The slip and slide part of this route is the approach to its start from the High Peaks Trail (it is best to do this route in dry conditions). Begin the approach 150 feet south of the southmost carved steps and handrails on the High Peaks Trail (these aren’t quite in sight at the trail exit-point when northbound). Move uphill 40 feet to a 15 foot high, mossy ramp (class four when dry). Continue up the gully to a point where dirt becomes rock. Climb the chute above. Its steepest part is protected by two bolts, after which it becomes class four. Exit left, using a slung knob for protection. Finish on Sweet Marie’s summit and a two-bolt anchor, 75 feet from the start. Descend by rappelling off to the north, 60 feet to the ground. FA Party: Brad Young. FA Date: February 7, 2020. Source(s): Self, the first ascentionist.
507.65 Almost Always 5.6 Almost Always climbs a weakness on the north side of Sweet Marie Pinnacle. Reach this weakness from the High Peaks Trail, 50 feet south of that trail’s southmost/low angle metal handrails. Move west (steeply uphill) on grassy slopes to the left of mossy slabs. After 150 feet, turn left (south). Walk 50 feet, between low rocks, to the start of an up-and-left ramp/chimney on Sweet Marie’s north side. Easy but awkward climbing up the ramp/chimney leads to its top and a broad, almost-flat area (protection to this point: small to 2½ inch gear and slung knobs). A bolt above protects moves over an overlap. Continue up the broad, east ridge over bulges, past two more bolts to a fourth bolt that is on the east side of Sweet Marie’s summit tower. Climb up and right onto a shoulder and a fifth bolt. Finish onto the summit and a two-bolt anchor, 115 feet from the start. Rappel 60 feet off the pinnacle’s north side. FA Party: Brad Young, Bob Walton. FA Date: January 31, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.71 Full Loaf - Buttered Toast 5.5 A traversing route up the larger of the two Low Down Loaves.
The Low Down Loaves: The Low Down Loaves consist of two formations, one large and one very small. Both are located west of the High Peaks ridge crest, north of Sweet Marie Pinnacle, and south of Queen Charlotte Dome (listed below). Seen from the east, both pinnacles have a bread-loaf like appearance. The north side of the smaller, north “loaf” (Half Loaf) is 25 feet south of Queen Charlotte Dome’s south side (and Queen Charlotte looms over it). Half Loaf is separated from the northeast end of its larger companion (Full Loaf) by a four foot wide, east to west oriented corridor.
This Route: Full Loaf is inaccessible on most sides. Even its short, 35 foot high, east and northeast sides are steep and fairly holdless. A ledge and ramp system on the far right side of its north face allows access to the summit. Climb an easy, mossy slab below the left end of a somewhat discontinuous ledge that extends well to the right. A fixed piton protects the first technical moves. Continue to the right past two more fixed pins and the route’s first crux, reaching the lowest right end of a prominent up-and-left ramp. A bolt protects moves onto the ramp. Climb up and left 12 feet to a second bolt which protects the route’s second crux. The up-and-left ramp becomes class four soon after the second bolt. Reach a point east of the formation’s highest (west) summit. A boulder move leads onto that summit and a two-bolt anchor. Descend by a 60 foot rappel back to the start. Note that careful planning and rope management are necessary to reduce rope drag for the leader and to make the climb as safe as possible for a follower. FA Party: Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Kathy Cook, John Cook. FA Date: February 2, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.74 Half Loaf - The Slice 5.7 A short route up the smaller of two Low Down Loaves (see description of The Low Down Loaves above). Start in the narrow corridor between Half Loaf and Full Loaf’s 35 foot high northeast end. A bolt 15 feet up protects crux moves onto the summit ridge, 20 feet from the start. Move 20 feet east to the summit. There is no anchor; descend using a Pinnacles rappel. FA Party: Brad Young, Shawn Shafai, Julie Nordquist. FA Date: January 19, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.82 The Missing Link 5.9 * A two-pitch route up previously unclimbed Queen Charlotte Dome.
Queen Charlotte Dome: Queen Charlotte Dome is the largest and northmost formation in The South Platte. It is notable in that the southmost, carved steps and handrails on the High Peaks Trail cross its east toe. Although not particularly visible from the trail, Queen Charlotte’s very big south face is noticeably red, rotten and overhanging. Its west end also overhangs. Much of the dome’s north side is mossy and directly over the trail. This side is also very steep in several places. The formation’s two climbing routes follow weaknesses on the far right side of the south face and on the right-center of the north face. The south face route is listed first.
This Route: Approach this inobvious, two-pitch route by leaving the High Peaks Trail to the west, uphill, 50 feet south of that trail’s southmost metal handrails (this is the same point of departure as for Sweet Marie Pinnacle). Move more to the right (northwest) than the Sweet Marie approach, aiming for the base of a series of very large blocks and pillars that lean against Queen Charlotte’s southeast side. Continue up into a narrowing gap between Queen Charlotte and a smaller rock ridge to its south. The gap narrows to 10 feet then suddenly widens at just under 200 feet from the trail. The left edge of the leftmost pillar is here, almost at the high point of ground on the dome’s south side. The route’s 60 foot class four first pitch starts behind the leftmost pillar. Climb an up-and-right ramp behind the pillars to a one-bolt belay just below their highest point. The second pitch climbs a shallow water chute straight up and then up and right past five bolts to a shoulder of rock. The rest of the pitch is class four, up and left, ending at a two-bolt anchor 80 feet from the start. Rappel 80 feet off the dome’s south side (directly back to the start of pitch one). FA Party: Alan Nilsson, Brad Young, Tonya Nilsson. FA Date: January 18, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
507.84 The Stroll 5.2 * The Stroll climbs the line of least resistance to the top of Queen Charlotte Dome. It is intricate enough that it can be hard to distinguish where the approach ends and the climb starts. Begin on the High Peaks Trail between Queen Charlotte Dome’s north side and the carved stair-steps leading north up to the east side of Long’s Folly (listed below). Leave the trail at its westmost point, where it makes a sharp right turn toward the stair steps. Walk southeast up a low-angle rock ridge to a point 30 feet above the trail. Move levelly to the south 20 feet to a shoulder of rock above (north of) a 15 foot deep slot. Enter the slot by traversing east on an almost-ledge. Move west, down the slot, 10 feet past a pine tree. Climb the slot’s north-facing wall eight feet to the top of a ramp. The route’s first bolt is slightly right (to protect the ramp descent). Move down the ramp 20 feet to a flat, low notch. Finish this pitch at a two-bolt belay on the west-facing slab just past (south of) the notch. The slab above is protected by three bolts; move first slightly right, then slightly left. Finish after 105 feet at a two-bolt anchor on the northwest edge of Queen Charlotte’s spacious, fairly nearly-flat summit. Descend by a 55 foot rappel past the last lead bolt, back to the top of the slot. FA Party: Tricia Young, Brad Young. FA Date: January 4, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
519.6 Mister Bolt Jangles 5.8 ** Start on top of a large boulder located 40 feet right of Monga Bonna Memorial Route and left of a separate, huge block. Climb 15 feet from the boulder to the first bolt. Six more bolts and gear (two to three inches) protect climbing up and left, then up, 80 feet to a two-bolt anchor. Descend by rappel. FA Party: Brad Young, Peter Braun. FA Date: February 8, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
530.05 Condorks 5.9 R * This one-pitch route is on the north side of Condor Crag - South, but is included here because it is so close to routes on Condor Crag - North’s north side. It starts on top of a thin rock fin, 50 feet right of The Great Chimney. Start by moving down and stemming to the first bolt (it’s at the same height as the top of the fin). Move up and right past two bolts and then up past two more. Although the route’s first five bolts are easy to see from the rock fin, no others are visible. Bolt six is 30 feet above bolt five and bolt seven is 25 feet higher. One more bolt protects climbing to a two-bolt anchor 145 feet from the rock fin (eight lead bolts total). Descend by rappel from a two-bolt anchor. FA Party: Adam Long, John Bolte. FA Date: November 2013. Source(s): Telephone discussions with Adam Long soon after route was established; ascent of route with Gavin Emmons, February 15, 2020.
530.1 Bibulous Bluff Class Four * Bibulous Bluff is 125 feet east from the bottom of the northmost set of metal handrails on the High Peaks Trail (commonly called “the Steep and Narrows”). Although its east and south sides are very high (and mostly rotten), its north and west sides are much less so. Make an almost-level approach to its northwest side, bypassing a smaller outlier to its immediate west. Seen from the northwest, Bibulous Bluff looks like a slender mound extending to the south. Climb a six foot high notch on the west side’s far left (north) end. After gaining the top of what amounts to a low-angle ridge, continue south, over another notch 40 more feet to the summit and then past that to the bluff’s very exposed south end. There is no protection and no top anchor. Descend by downclimbing. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Ascent of formation on December 31, 2019; multiple ascents by John Cook, Kathy Cook, Deb Collins, January 5, 2020.
530.2 Mescaline Mound 5.2 Mescaline Mound is a scruffy, multi-tiered pinnacle located 150 feet northeast of the northmost handrail on the High Peaks Trail. By way of further identification, two very large holes in the pinnacle’s steep, rotten southwest face are easy to see from the High Peaks Trail and the Mound’s 20 foot high, overhanging southmost end is 30 feet north from the north end of Bibulous Bluff. Note also that the formation is 150 feet south from the south side of Pot Pinnacle (listed next). Much of Mescaline Mound is steep or rotten. Its north side however features a mossy, low-angle chute that can be climbed to a point five feet below the summit (pro: one to 1½ inch and tied off trees). Move onto the summit, which has no anchor. Descend by downclimbing or by making a Pinnacles rappel. FA Party: Brad Young. FA Date: December 31, 2019. Source(s): Self, the first ascentionist.
530.32 Pot Pinnacle - Moonshiner’s Chimney 5.5 Moonshiner’s Chimney is the leftmost of three routes on Pot Pinnacle’s east side. Climb a 55 foot high flared chimney to a spacious, flat area (this is the first pitch belay ledge for Up In Smoke, listed next). Finish on Up In Smoke, 35 feet to Pot’s summit. Gear: one to six inches. Descend (as for all three Pot Pinnacle routes) by rappelling 50 feet down The Roper Route (note that “The Roper Route” refers to the 5.5 - really 5.6 R - that is the only route listed on this formation in the 2007 guidebook). FA Party: John Cook, Tricia Young, Brad Young, Deb Collins, Kathy Cook. FA Date: January 5, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
530.33 Pot Pinnacle - Up In Smoke 5.3 * This fun route takes the line of least resistance to the top of Pot Pinnacle. Start on the formation’s northeast side, in the same place as The Roper Route (note that “The Roper Route” refers to the 5.5 - really 5.6 R - that is the only route listed on this formation in the 2007 guidebook). While The Roper Route goes straight up a chute, Up In Smoke climbs an up-and-left slanting crack and ramp. Continue 60 feet to a spacious flat area. Belay from trees. The 35 foot second pitch follows a right-facing corner before moving right to the shared three-bolt anchor. Protection consists of one each one, two, three and five inch (the five inch piece is used on both pitches). FA Party: John Cook, Craig Collins. FA Date: November 6, 2019. Source(s): Email report of route from John Cook, November 7, 2019; ascent of route with Mark Fletcher and Dennis Erik Mr Mud, December 30, 2019.
530.4 Illicit Chimney Dome 5.4 Illicit Chimney Dome isn’t really a dome, it is a short pinnacle located 100 yards southeast (slightly downhill) from Pot and Peyote and a little over 200 feet east (downhill) from Bibulous Bluff. It is the largest of many rocks and tiny pinnacles down low on this east side of the High Peaks ridge crest. The best approach is from the south side of Peyote Pillar (no cliffs and less brush). Seen from that point, Illicit Chimney Dome is split by a chimney, with the main pinnacle on the left and a subsidiary pinnacle on the right. Climb the northwest side of this chimney 20 feet to the top of the subsidiary pinnacle. A sling over the top of this feature protects a step-across onto the main formation. Continue 15 feet to the summit. There is no anchor on top; return to the obvious saddle and make a Pinnacles rappel off the northeast side, 55 feet to the ground. FA Party: Brad Young, Mark Fletcher. FA Date: December 30, 2019. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
536.6 Not Today 5.10c R This 70 foot route climbs a west-facing cliff just east of the High Peaks Trail. The cliff is 100 feet north of The Sponge and 60 feet south of Burgundy Dome (listed next). Not Today starts five feet north of where the cliff actually touches the east edge of the trail. Its first bolt is 15 feet up and easily visible from the start. Bolt two is almost 20 feet higher, at the bottom lip of a 14 inch diameter hole. Continue past a triangular, light-colored lodestone and then a third bolt to finish at a series of sturdy bushes. The three bolts can be supplemented by so-so slung knobs and a marginal 2½ inch piece in a hole. Descend by scrambling up and right and then back left (north) before moving down to the High Peaks Trail at Burgundy Dome. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Email from Gavin Emmons during December 2017 regarding a partial ascent he made of the route (to its second bolt); Rappel inspection of route on December 15, 2019.
544.8 Stepping Stone 5.9 Stepping Stone Pinnacle is a 35 foot high, free-standing formation located between the Tuff Dome area and Spike's Peak. It is about 150 feet south of the High Peaks Trail (i.e. toward Tuff Dome from that trail). The most commonly used climber's path from the High Peaks Trail to the Tuff Dome area passes right next to this pinnacle, on its north and west sides. The formation has a distinct, 20 foot high shoulder on its west side (the "stepping stone"). Easy and unprotected fifth class on the northwest side of the formation leads to the top of the shoulder. One bolt protects moves from this point to the top of the pinnacle. NOTE: The first ascent party used one bolt to protect the moves to the summit. Mostly this was because of the late hour in the day. The first ascent party intends to return and add a second lead bolt (so that a fall will not result in a broken ankle), but cannot do so until the 2012 raptor closures are lifted. ALSO: The summit anchor presently consists of one bolt, with one screw gate (also because of the late hour). This was used to hold the rope in place so that a "Pinnacles rappel" could be used to descend. The first ascent party intends to place a second summit bolt and to add chains to make a proper summit anchor; this, however, will also have to wait until the raptor closures are lifted later in 2012. EDIT: As of 1-15-13 the route has two lead bolts and a fall isn't likely to break an ankle now (the route's "R" sub-rating has now been removed). There is also now a two bolt summit anchor with equalized chains. FA Party: Gavin Emmons, Brad Young, Alacia Welch. FA Date: January 14, 2012. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
556.2 A Play in Three Parts 5.10b (TR) Toprope up the middle of Bynum Spire’s west face. Unfortunately the rock, on this otherwise pretty route is loose. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Report from Robert Behrens regarding “accidentally” climbing this face, January 10, 2015; ascent of route with John Cook and Lisa Lee, January 19, 2015.
557.1 Two Fifty Too Quick 5.7 The Fins are a series of long, slender pinnacles that extend from southeast to northwest. They are located southwest of Tuff Dome and above/northeast of The Sponge. Four different Fins are numbered, starting with The First Fin (closest to Tuff Dome), extending to The Fourth Fin (closest to The Sponge). The wide northeast face of the First Fin - which includes the route Begin it Now - is 100 yards southwest of Tuff Dome and easily visible. Access the first three Fins from Tuff Dome along an open and viewful ridge top. A large gap and intervening cliffs make it necessary to access The Fourth Fin from the High Peaks trail near Burgundy Dome (see route 557.8 “The Fourth Fin - Regular Route” for notes regarding such access). Two Fifty Too Quick ascends the blunt arete 10 to 15 feet right of Begin it Now. Four bolts protect 55 feet of climbing to a small, separate summit and a two-bolt anchor which is shared with Nine Hundred for the Lead. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook, Gavin Emmons, Brad Young, Rosie Hansen. FA Date: January 10, 2015. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
557.2 Nine Hundred for the Lead 5.6 * This route follows the most obvious weakness in the central part of The First Fin’s northeast face. Three bolts protect straight up climbing to a very shallow bowl. Move up and right past two more bolts to the fin’s long thin top. Continue left past one more bolt (a directional to protect followers) to a small summit and a two-bolt anchor shared with Two Fifty Too Quick. FA Party: Brad Young, Tricia Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, Steve Dawson, Laura Dawson, Alex Dawson, Gavin Emmons, Alacia Welch, Bob Walton, Robert Behrens, Rosie Hansen, Julie Nordquist, Shawn Shafai, Joel Primrose, Jim McConachie, Dennis Erik Mr Mud, Jon Cochran, Noal Elkins, Brian Hamilton, Joe Denicola, Whitney Reynier. FA Date: January 10, 2015. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
557.6 Finagle 5.6 * This route is on the third of four long, slender pinnacles that make up The Fins. It starts between the narrow southeast ends of the Second and Third Fins. Chimney moves lead up 25 feet to a bolt on the left (on the Third Fin). This bolt protects moves onto a large, flat shoulder. Two more bolts protect the rest of the Third Fin’s still-narrow, upper, southwest face. A two-bolt anchor allows a 50 foot rappel back to the base. FA Party: Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: December 21, 2014. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
557.8 The Fourth Fin - Regular Route 5.1 Much of The Fourth Fin is rotten, undercut or very steep. The one weakness on it is to the right of center on the formation’s northeast side (the side-facing the Third Fin, at the uphill end of the 25 foot wide gap between this Fin and The Third Fin). Approach this route from the High Peaks trail right at Burgundy Dome. Move uphill from there; walking and light scrambling lead into a class two chimney between The Third Fin and a very small pinnacle. Continue up this to the top of the gap between the Third and Fourth Fins. Use a series of large boulders here to reach the top of an eight foot diameter chockstone (class four; it is of interest too that this chockstone can be seen in silhouette from the normal West Side parking area). Move across the chockstone and on to the class two northwest shoulder of the formation. This leads in 40 feet to the summit block. A couple easy class five moves lead to the top. There is no summit anchor. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Self; ascent of route December 27, 2014 with Tricia Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook.
560.22 Abuela Cochinita 5.8 ** Abuela Cochinita is the first-listed of several newly established routes on Spike’s Peak.
Spike’s Peak: The 2007 guidebook describes four routes on Spike Peak’s three separate summits. The four are described in counterclockwise/circular order starting on the formation’s south side. Listed first is the route Spike’s Peak (route number 558) on the middle pinnacle. Kermit and Miss Piggy (routes 550 and 560) on the east (closest-to-the-trail) formation appear next, and Little Javelina (route number 601) on the southwest pinnacle is listed last (although the book calls this the “west-most” pinnacle, southwest is probably a better descriptor). The three separate pinnacles that make up Spike’s Peak are divided by narrow chimneys (two narrow chimneys dividing three pinnacles).
Abuela Cochinita: Abuela Cochinita is on the east face of Spike’s east pinnacle (it is on the same face as, but 60 feet to the right of, the route Miss Piggy). The route is easily visible 25 feet west of the sharp turn in the trail which is 80 feet southwest of Dragonfly Dome (that is, the sharp turn is 80 feet to the left of a person standing on the trail looking at Dragonfly Dome). Start with easy climbing to the first bolt, which is 15 feet up, on the right side of a large hole. Four more bolts lead up and left. A sixth bolt protects moves straight up a headwall to a two bolt anchor. Descend by moving over to the Miss Piggy two bolt anchor (placed by that route’s first ascentionist in 2009), which is rigged for rappel. As a further note, Bob’s grandmother was given the nickname “Cochinita,” or “Cochie,” by her big brother when she was an infant. The name stayed with her for 80 years. In Spanish, Abuela Cochinita means grandmother little pig or grandma piglet; a play on the next route to the left, Miss Piggy. FA Party: Brad Young, Bob Walton. FA Date: April 13, 2010. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
560.23 Poached Pig 5.10b (TR) ** The anchor bolts atop this route were discovered as the first ascent of Abuela Cochinita was being finished. These (two) bolts are just over 15 feet right (west of) the anchor bolts for that route. Start Poached Pig by climbing to the first bolt on Abuela Cochinita. Continue straight up the (steep) face to the anchor bolts. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Discovery of the anchor bolts by Brad Young, April, 2010. Toprope ascents of route by Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Laura and Steve Dawson, Alan Nilsson, Joel Primrose, Joe Denicola, February 6, 2011.
560.41 Ham Sandwich 5.9 * This route climbs Spike’s Peak’s middle pinnacle. It starts in the chimney between the middle and east pinnacles, 45 feet left (south/up-chimney) of the route Razorback (listed next). Begin climbing Ham Sandwich where the ground at the bottom of the chimney gets noticeably steeper. Four bolts on middle’s northeast face protect a narrow chimney. Transition to face climbing past two more bolts to a wide, deep ledge. The steep wall above is the route crux. It is protected by two more bolts (eight lead bolts total). Finish after 100 feet at the two-bolt anchor for the route Spike’s Peak (number 558 in the 2007 guidebook). Descend by rappel in one of two ways. First, it is possible to rappel 80 feet directly to the ground over route 558. But, the base of that route is in a huge thicket of poison oak. As an alternative, walk 60 feet northwest on the middle pinnacle’s summit, to the top anchor for Swine Flue (listed below). Use this anchor to rappel 25 feet southeast to the two-bolt Razorback top anchor (which is 15 feet below the top of the pinnacle). Make a 100 foot rappel to the ground from this anchor. FA Party: Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton. FA Date: November 4, 2019. Source(s): Email from Emmons on November 10, 2019; ascent of route with Emmons, November 12, 2019.
560.43 Razorback 5.11a *** Razorback is a fairly long route on great rock. It requires wild stemming back to the neighboring wall, gets increasingly difficult, and finishes with sustained crimps and delicate footwork. The route is located on the east face of Spike’s Peak’s middle summit. Approach from the north side of the formation (from a point about midway along the approach from the High Peaks Trail to Little Javelina). Start where the middle and east Spike’s Peak formations come close enough together to form a chimney. Eleven bolts lead 100 feet to a two-bolt anchor which is 15 feet below the summit. (Note: the last two bolts were added by the first ascent party after the first ascent.) FA Party: Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton. FA Date: August 21, 2018. Source(s): Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; watched ascents of route by Emmons and others, October 14, 2018.
560.61 Squealer Squeezer 5.4 This short route is the left-most of several located between Spike’s southwest and center pinnacles. These several routes are listed from left to right (starting with Squealer Squeezer, the south-most route, extending past other routes to the right/north, and finishing with Dances With Warthogs, a route which parallel’s the established north-side route Little Javelina). Approach Squealer Squeezer from the south side of Spike’s. Squeeze into the south end of the chimney that is between the middle and southwest pinnacles, continuing to a point just before (south of) a two-foot diameter chockstone which is itself below two larger chockstones. The route starts as a chimney and then continues up the east face of Spike’s southwest pinnacle past three bolts in 45 feet of climbing. Finish at a two-bolt anchor located on the southeast shoulder of that southwest formation (the anchor is shared with the route Pockety Peccary, listed next). Descend by scrambling to the southeast, past the south end of the chimney, and then to the ground. FA Party: Gavin Emmons (Emmons climbed the route free solo and then returned and placed the lead bolts three weeks later). FA Date: June 2, 2018. Source(s): Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; ascent of route with Katie Young, October 14, 2018.
560.63 Pockety Peccary 5.7 * This route is located about halfway through the chimney that divides Spike’s center and southwest pinnacles. Approach from the north (passing under the route Bacon Bits, listed below). A tight starting-chimney is the crux of the route. This slowly widens until the route becomes a face-climb on the well-pocketed east side of the southwest pinnacle. Five bolts lead up and slightly left. Three more bolts then lead left to a two-bolt anchor 90 feet from the start (the route’s last bolt and anchor are shared with Squealer Squeezer). FA Party: Gavin Emmons and Alacia Welch. FA Date: July 22, 2018. Source(s): Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; ascent of route with Gavin Emmons and Katie Young, October 14, 2018.
560.64 Swine Flue 5.10a ** An adventurous and inventive climb. Climb to the fifth bolt of Pockety Peccary. Continue straight up to a sixth bolt before stemming to the west face of Spike’s middle pinnacle (wild!). Follow a shallow chute up that face past five more bolts to finish at a two-bolt anchor on Spike’s middle summit (11 lead bolts total in 120 feet). Descend by making a 115 foot rappel back into the chimney and then to the base of the climb. FA Party: Gavin Emmons. FA Date: August 5, 2018. Source(s): Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; ascent of route with Gavin Emmons, October 14, 2018.
560.65 Bacon Bits 5.8 ** A fun climb which starts 20 feet south of the north end of the middle/southwest chimney (the route starts about 35 feet upslope from Dances With Warthogs, listed next). Like its sister routes to the left, Bacon Bits starts as a squeeze chimney. As the chimney widens, the route stays on the east face of the southwest pinnacle. Excellent pockets lead to a crux bulge. Finish at a separate two-bolt anchor on the southwest pinnacle, 90 feet from the start. Protection consists of eight bolts and a few one to two inch pieces (used between the fourth and fifth bolts). FA Party: Gavin Emmons. FA Date: 8-12-18. Source(s): Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; watched ascents of route by Emmons and others, October 14, 2018.
560.67 Dances With Warthogs 5.10a *** An outstanding, longer climb on impeccable rock. Start below a bulge, slightly left of Little Javelina. The bulge protects with one to two inch cams. Continue up and a little left to the first of 10 bolts. These lead 115 feet to the southwest formation’s summit and a two-bolt anchor shared with Little Javelina (these anchor bolts were replaced by Gavin Emmons and John Cook on June 29, 2018). Note: a 70-meter rope is just long enough to allow a one-rope toprope for this route and Little Javelina. FA Party: Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton. FA Date: June 11, 2018. Source(s): Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; watched ascents of route by Emmons and others, October 14, 2018.
560.7 Mean Max 5.4 Mean Max is a large pinnacle located 250 feet north of Spike’s Peak. It is quite tall on its north side. The shorter south (uphill) side is 50 feet high. A direct approach to Mean Max from Spike’s isn’t possible; a large dome (due north of Spike’s) and a scruffy cliff (west of the dome) are between the two. Instead, move west (downhill) from the north side of Spike’s Peak. At a point 200 feet from Spike’s west pinnacle, move north until it is possible to continue northeast to the uphill side of Mean Max. Walk north into a wide corridor between Max and a low, long pinnacle to its east. Continue to a notch between Max and a separate, slender spire. Climb Mean Max’s 50 foot high east face to its spacious summit. Protection consists of two bolts and holes for two and four inch gear. A two-bolt summit anchor allows a rappel off the south side to a grassy area above a short, class three groove. FA Party: Brad Young, Jennifer Wang. FA Date: March 14, 2020. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
564.24 Rituals and Magic 5.9 *** Four items of information preface this route description. First, headlamps are mandatory on this climb no matter what the time of day. The climb’s lower pitches are so deep in chimney-systems that it is impossible to see critical holds without artificial light. Second, this route should only be climbed in very dry conditions. It takes very little rain to make parts of the route literally slimy. Third, the route gets one star for the climbing and one for its wildly adventurous nature. Fourth, Rituals and Magic shares an approach, and, higher up, a “hanging meadow” with the easier route Meanderthal (listed next). The two also parallel each other above the meadow. Consider learning the approach and the north side of H and L Dome by climbing Meanderthal before attempting Rituals and Magic.
Approach: Approach from the High Peaks Trail by walking around The Smokestack’s east (left) side into a wide dirt gully below its south face (this gully descends from northwest to southeast under the steep northeast side of The Flakes). Walk down this wide dirt gully (southeast), staying 50 to 100 feet out from the wall below The Flakes. At a point 200 yards below (due south from) The Smokestack, look for Meanderthal’s brushy, up-and-left, first pitch ramp (with the 10 foot high wide-crack start). Continue downhill another 250 feet from this point to the top of a series of small rock ridges/boulders. Descend these, class three and four, 40 feet to a series of water-polished alcoves below a noticeable, deep chimney-bottom/water chute. By way of further identification of the route’s start-point, these alcoves are 200 feet west and slightly higher uphill from the formations Chuck and Carol. Note also an eight-foot high, finger-like spire 100 feet uphill/southeast from the start point (along the main wall).
Pitch One, 5.4 (80 feet): Move up to a fixed piton at the back of the highest alcove. Traverse from it five feet left, into the deep chimney-bottom. Continue walking straight back in the chimney to a point where level progress is no longer possible. Belay from gear.
Pitch Two, 5.8 (45 feet): Climb the flaring chimney above. The pitch crux comes where a protruding lodestone forces a climber out from the flare. Belay from a roomy, flat alcove (“The Crow’s Nest”) from one bolt and tiny gear.
Pitch Three, 5.7 (55 feet): Note the huge chockstone directly above the pitch two belay (“Godzilla’s Testicle”). Although the route passes over this feature, it does so only after all climbers are out from under it, above and to its side. Chimney up and right (toward the outside of the chimney) from The Crow’s Nest to a two-bolt anchor above a lodestone stance. Protection (all on the same wall as the pitch-two belay bolt) consists of a hole which takes a good four-inch piece, and three lead bolts.
Pitch Four, 5.7 (55 feet): Move down onto the top of Godzilla’s Testicle. Crux moves lead up twin cracks on the right (right when facing into the chimney). A wide, easy slot leads to an unprotected 5.5 squeeze chimney. Belay from trees just below a series of flat rock-tops interspersed with patches of grass (the “hanging meadow”). Note that this belay point is about 50 feet left (south) from the start of Meanderthal’s second pitch.
Pitch Five, 5.7 (130 feet): Walk into the start of another deep, straight-back/southeast-to-northwest oriented chimney (it parallels the chimney climbed by Meanderthal’s second pitch). Pass a separate, smaller, southwest-oriented, left-branch chimney which allows walk-up access to the top of the second pitch of the route Feather Canyon. A short headwall is bypassed by way of a 5.2, right-to-left traverse. Continue levelly to another headwall 85 feet from the start. Overcome this with 12 feet of 5.5 chimneying to the right. Move to the back of a large, tree-filled, flat alcove (slings through a hole in the rock allow an optional belay here). Fifteen feet of 5.7 lead into another flat-floored alcove (“The Cockpit”) and a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch Six, 5.9 (65 feet): Two bolts protect 25 feet of flared chimney. Continue in the now lower-angle, still-flared chimney to a third bolt (on the right wall, just above the first chockstone). Reach a point below a series of chockstones. Chimney out and around these, to a two-bolt belay above.
Pitch Seven, 5.3 (55 feet): Move up eight feet onto the tops of a series of large boulders. Go left and a little up through oak trees to a belay platform at the base of an up-and-left, low-angle water chute (it has a 20 foot high groove/seam just to its right).
Pitch Eight, 5.6 (100 feet): Climb a headwall 15 feet to a bolt. A fixed piton five feet higher protects moves up and left into the main chute. Climb past three more bolts to a point just below a huge boulder. Move up and left to a one-bolt belay behind the boulder.
Pitch Nine, 5.5 (145 feet): Walk 75 feet uphill/south in a meadow to join the sixth pitch of the route Feather Canyon. A short face on the right, to the right of the largest pinnacle, leads to a flat area. Move left to another short face which leads to the top of the ridge. Belay by placing a large loop of rope over a small pinnacle.
Pitch Ten, 5.4 (100 feet): Move down 10 feet. Climb a 20-foot face past a bolt. Walk down and left along the ridge-top. Continue around the right side of a pinnacle to a one-bolt belay.
Pitch Eleven, 5.3 (145 feet): Move left and then up to a bolt 20 feet above the belay. Continue to an up-and-right ramp. Follow this to a short headwall protected by a second bolt. A third bolt 15 feet higher protects a last, very short headwall. Continue north over a series of humps on the ridge-top to the summit of H and L Dome and a two-bolt anchor.
Descent: Reverse the class four, second pitch of H and L - Regular Route (down and then up to the top of that route’s first pitch). Rappel to the ground.
Gear: One each tiny to four inches.
FA Party: Aaron McDonald, Jon Cochran, Brad Young, Noal Elkins, Geoff Norris, John Cook. FA Date: November 17, 2019. Source(s): Detailed verbal description of route with a topo by Jon Cochran, November 5, 2019; ascent of route with Jennifer Wang and Jon Cochran, November 10 and 17, 2019.
564.2 Meanderthal 5.5 * This adventurous multi-pitch climb lies in the complex series of gullies, rock fins and pinnacles below/east of The Flakes and northeast of H&L Dome (the area can be seen well from the Condor Gulch Trail at The Peanuts). Meanderthal is a fun route that is similar in nature to Feather Canyon; it takes a smart line of weakness among otherwise impenetrable walls, it’s multi-pitch, and it’s a good adventure. Note too that the route can easily be done in shorter pitches than are described below (if, for example, inexperienced climbers needing closer attention are along).
Preparation: Take a few small cams, one four inch piece and several runners. It is also strongly recommended that climbers not take a pack on this route. Instead, leave packs near the top, on the approach to The Flakes, before walking back to the trail and around to start the approach.
Approach: Approach from the High Peaks Trail by walking around The Smokestack’s east (left) side into a wide dirt gully below its south face (this gully descends from northwest to southeast under the steep northeast side of The Flakes). Walk down this wide dirt gully (southeast), staying 50 to 100 feet out from the wall below The Flakes. The first part of Meanderthal climbs a brushy, up-and-left ramp that is 200 yards below (due south from) The Smokestack. A ten foot high wide crack (the start of the route) allows access to the ramp.
Pitch One, 5.0 (145 feet): Climb the ten foot high wide crack (5.0), then move up and left on the bushy ledge. After 75 feet drop down over a boulder into a flat dirt area at the base of a large chimney/slot (optional belay here). Move left 30 feet onto jumbled boulders. From the top of the boulders a mossy slab leads 20 feet up and over a shoulder (class four). End at another flat dirt area below two large chimneys (with another chimney 50 feet further along).
Pitch Two, 5.5 (110 feet): Move past bushes into a chamber at the base of the largest/central chimney (a huge chockstone looms overhead). A low angle, shallow slot leads 40 feet to a few chimney moves and a stance. Move left around a bulge to a bolt on the left wall, 55 feet from the start of the pitch, and directly under the huge chockstone. Continue up on very smooth rock (possible gear here) between smaller chockstones and through a tight slot onto the tops of the chockstones (optional belay here too). Another 50 feet of nearly level terrain leads to a single belay bolt (behind branches) on the left wall of the right-most chimney.
Pitch Three, 5.5 (100 feet): From the belay bolt, chimney 15 feet onto a large chockstone (the four inch piece is helpful here). Move to and then up a short face with a curved crack/flake on the left (gear). Continue slightly left into another slot/hole under a large chockstone. Finish through this into a meadow.
Pitch Four, Class Three (170 feet): From the right side of the meadow, walk up into the largest, central gully (toward a four foot diameter chockstone that looks like it will impede passage; it's actually passed easily on the left). Continue under overhanging rock to a low angle gully (take class four rock on the left or easier dirt with some brush on the right). This gully leads directly to the six foot diameter chockstone which is described in the approach directions for The Flakes (in the 2007 guidebook, page 226).
FA Party: Jon Cochran, John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: October 4, 2014. Source(s): Email description of route from John Cook, October 13, 2014; ascent of route with John and Kathy Cook, and Tricia Young, November 9, 2014.
564.61 Where’s Waldo 5.10a ** Where’s Waldo is an excellent lead put up by a determined team drilling from stance only. It is on the north-facing wall below Frothy Flake, 250 feet southeast of The Smokestack. The route and the wall it climbs can be seen well from near The Lump. Start the approach from the trail by walking to The Smokestack. Move around that formation’s east (left) side and into a wide dirt gully/hillside below its south face. This large gully descends from west-to-east under the steep north side of The Flakes. From the south side of The Smokestack, move directly across this gully and onto a dirt ramp that leads up-and-left (east). Continue on this ramp 80 feet up to a saddle with a pine. From the pine, move down a dirt ramp 70 feet before moving across a band of rock to the right and reaching the base of the climb. The first bolt of Where’s Waldo is 10 feet off the ground, just up and left of a fractured lodestone. A second bolt is four feet above that. The third bolt is in a distinctive four foot by two foot depression/hole in the rock. From the third bolt, climb left and up past more bolts to a water streak, then up to a two-bolt anchor (a total of seven bolts plus a slung knob protect this 80 foot long first pitch). The second pitch climbs steep rock past two bolts to a low angle finish at the base of Frothy Flake, 30 feet up. Continue back 20 feet to a two-bolt anchor. A 70 meter rope allows a one-rope rappel to the ground from this upper anchor; a 60 meter rope requires two one-rope rappels. FA Party: Aaron McDonald, Jon Cochran, Bob Walton, Levi Goldman. FA Date: January 12, 2014. Source(s): Discussions about route with Aaron McDonald and Jon Cochran, followed by an ascent of the route on October 26, 2014.
571.81 Quasimodo Pinnacle 5.7 R A1 Quasimodo Pinnacle is a taller formation 80 feet southeast of (uphill from) The Keep. It is 80 yards from Eggshell (that is, closer to the route Eggshell than is The Keep). The formation is flanked on its east and west sides by shorter rocks. It also has a pronounced shoulder on its south side. Climb the rock immediately west of the main pinnacle (very easy fifth class). Once on top, throw a rope over the pronounced shoulder. Secure one end and jumar the rope (the length of this ascent is much shorter on the west side than on the east). Once on the shoulder, exposed climbing leads a few feet to a bolt. The summit is just under 15 feet above the bolt. There are three bolts on the summit, two are very old and one is new. Chains facilitate the rappel. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Discovery of the lead bolt and a summit bolt by Brad Young, Jim McConachie and Bob Walton, January, 2011. Subsequent ascent of route by Brad Young and Jim McConachie, February 7, 2011.
571.83 The Keep 5.8 R The Keep is a 45-foot high, cone-shaped pinnacle found among several other pinnacles in the area between Dragonfly Dome (in The High Peaks) and The Citadel (on The West Side). The Keep in particular is located on a direct line between Dragonfly Dome and the back of The Citadel, 150 yards from each formation. It is also about 150 yards due east of The Egg. The group of pinnacles can be approached either from The High Peaks or from The West Side. From The High Peaks walk to the base of the route Eggshell (not The Egg, which is a different formation farther east). From that route continue downhill along the west side of the formation to its lowest point. Continue from that lowest point west across the hillside. The first pinnacle in this group is 80 yards from Eggshell and slightly lower in elevation (this first pinnacle has much shorter rocks on its east and west sides and a pronounced shoulder on its south side). The Keep is below (northwest) of the first pinnacle in this group, 100 yards from Eggshell. To approach The Keep from The West Side, hike to the back side of The Citadel. A fairly brush free approach can be made to The Keep and rocks near it from this point, 150 yards uphill along the top of a low ridge. Also, from the back of The Citadel, looking south (uphill), The Keep and other formations can be seen as follows: a larger formation, called Sunkist Dome, is visible to the right a little less than 150 yards away (look for a very large, round area of orange lichen high on its north side). One hundred feet to the left of Sunkist Dome is a 25-foot high pinnacle that blends into the terrain behind it and which is between Sunkist Dome and The Keep. One hundred more feet to the left of this small rock is The Keep which is fairly uniform in shape, appearing like a steep, upside down cone. The Keep has a route on its uphill (south) side. Loose 5.7 leads 12 feet to a basketball-size lodestone. A few feet past the lodestone is a ledge. Clip a bolt from this ledge (the bolt is 15 feet up and right of the lodestone). Crux moves above the bolt lead to a horizontal crack (protection to two inches) and then easier climbing to the summit. There is a two bolt summit anchor (one bolt is new). FA Party: Unknown, but, given the style of climbing and bolting (very solid Star Dryvin bolts including one placed in an incredibly solid lodestone, a one bolt original summit anchor and very bold, runout climbing), possibly Glen Denny and Gary Colliver. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Self, discovery and ascent of previously unreported route (ascent with Jim McConachie and Bob Walton).
571.85 Party of Three 5.7 R This route is on the southeast side of Sunkist Dome. Sunkist Dome is 200 feet northwest of The Keep (there is a 25 foot high pinnacle about midway between the two). Sunkist is named for the large area of bright orange lichen on its north side (easy to see from the back side of The Citadel). Start Party of Three with 15 feet of class four up a mossy face with holes. This leads to a broad, flat terrace and the beginning of the roped climbing. From the terrace, climb 15 feet straight up over holes to a slab (sling a grapefruit-size knob for protection). An up-and-right crack at the top of the slab takes protection to 1 ½ inches. Easy moves lead five more feet to a small ledge from which a bolt can be clipped. Continue up and right in a shallow groove. Easier moves lead a few feet more to the summit. There is a two bolt summit anchor (with chains). FA Party: Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Bob Walton. FA Date: January 15, 2011. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
578.6 The Clump - Feeling Lucky Punk 5.6 This route is on a trailside formation called The Clump.
The Clump: The Clump is a multi-summited pinnacle located 80 feet west of The Lump (toward Dragonfly Dome), and 250 feet northeast of The Smokestack. Its lower elevation, northmost summit rises directly from the southeast side of the High Peaks Trail (the trail is oriented southwest to northeast here). Two routes climb to its main (south) summit. Both start on its uphill side.
This Route: Feeling Luck Punk can almost be seen in the photo on page 232 of the 2007 guidebook - it is directly under The Lump’s route number (579) in that photo. Look for two bolts on the left side of the southeast face. Start directly below the first bolt. Continue 40 feet to a two bolt summit anchor. FA Party: Jon Cochran, Aaron McDonald. FA Date: December 7, 2013. Source(s): Report of the route from Cochran and McDonald (in person), December 14, 2013; subsequent ascent of the route on December 28, 2013.
578.8 The Clump - Scrambler’s Route Class Four Scrambler’s Route leads to the top of The Clump’s main, south summit. Start at the highest point of dirt on The Clump’s east side. Move a few feet north, over/through a low slot. Climb a right-facing corner to a slab. This leads to the summit, 45 feet from the start. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Solo ascent of route, February 14, 2020.
579.1 High Peaks Drifter 5.8 High Peaks Drifter starts 15 feet right of the regular route on The Lump (route 579). Climb past two bolts to join The Lump at its second bolt. Share its last few moves to the summit. FA Party: Jon Cochran, Aaron McDonald. FA Date: December 7, 2013. Source(s): Report of the route from Cochran and McDonald (in person), December 14, 2013; subsequent ascent of the route on December 28, 2013.
579.5 What I’ve Been Missing Out On 5.7 This route is on the southwest (downhill) face of a formation called Mucci’s Mound.
Mucci’s Mound: Mucci’s Mound is a nondescript formation located 150 feet northeast from The Lump and 150 feet south of the High Peaks Trail. It has a short uphill (north) side which blends into sub-summits and scattered small pinnacles nearby. The mound’s southeast (downhill) face is much taller. Both Mucci’s Mound climbing routes are on this face. Its top, and the end point for both routes, is the farthest southeast summit (the two-bolt anchor there is easy to see from on top of rocks to its north). Approach the base by hiking down along the east side of the formation (the si
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New addition today, The Wolf 5.7 R (see above).
New addition Feb 10, 2009, The Road to Bagalaar 5.8 R (see above).
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24.1 The Road To Bagalaar 5.8 R
I heard about this one from Fabrizio. Sounds like you can continue the route upwards??
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That was the original intent to climb up to and out the 5 foot roof crack. Upon reaching the ledge, the headwall and roof crack were deemed too Bagalaar to continue to the summit. Thus the name "The Road to Bagalaar"
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Newly reported route
Gavins blank " I forgot the name I will find it then at it here"
Rating not sure I have not climbed it.
Start on Stupendous Man, pull the mantle then lead out to an old rusty quarter inch bolt. Clip the bolt then tend up and left to a corner. Place some ok gear in some quality Pinnacles Mud. Move up and left toward Lithium, through the corner of the arch, where there are some large knobs. Clip the last bolt on Lithium and finish on Lithium.
I suppose I should wait to have all the information but I wanted to get this in before I forgot.
I heard of a variation where someone went straight up the face below Stupendous man, then pulled the mantle, (without clipping the bolt).
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Sounds like it might be a worthwhile route - especially if that old quarter incher was replaced.
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I heard of a variation where someone went straight up the face below Stupendous man, then pulled the mantle, (without clipping the bolt).
I heard the same or something similar.
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Is this the bolt just under the small roof/right facing corner (left of STMAN) then up the face to the bolted belay ledge? I have thought about replacing it, whats the word on the route? Seems possible to TR it before or to replace the bolt, the climbing looks hard around the corner.
I have looked at that line for a while and would be happy to "Tune it up"
Mucci
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That is the bolt. Rap in from the bolts at the top of Lithium or Stupendous Man, or a tree on top.
I think the route is 10 b/c. Talk to Gavin to get the real name and the juicy details. I heard the moves through the corner over the bulge are not that bad and kinda of fun.
I looks cool from the ground with the big jugs hanging out there to grab onto.
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Hey gang, thought I should finally get on this forum with some information on the climb between Stupendous Man and Lithium... Though I didn't see it in Brad's book, I assumed someone must have done it before, otherwise I would have added some details here earlier. If no one else has done it and mine was the first ascent (a couple months ago now), I called it "Tangent," probably 5.10a/b at this point. (Though a couple others mentioned "Gavin's Tangent" as a possibility... You be the judge!)
At any rate, looks like most folks have a sense of where it goes, though there are a couple variations from the ground. To lead it, start at Stupendous Man, go over the roof section, then clip up to the old quarter incher Brad mentioned. From there, follow the instructions from "My Name is Mud" above on May 11. From the rusty quarter inch bolt to the last bolt on Lithium, the best place for pro is midway, in the side-cling/under-cling move as you're stretching left... Given the potentially crumbly quality of the rock, a couple pieces are recommended! Using Metolius TCUs, I think yellow to red are usable, and possibly a bit smaller.
The variation start is good too, a bit more challenging (closer to 5.10b/c or so, I'd guess), but tougher to do on lead, probably safer on TR, due to the lack of good pro options until you're over the roof mantle. Start between Lithium and Stupendous Man on the thin face, climb up to the roof section but stay left of the usual moves for Stupendous Man, then over the roof to the rusty quarter inch bolt, and on up from there. The thin face start is pretty cool, I think. Iztok's friend Tomek (sp?) was the first to give the variation a go.
Both variations are good... The moves themselves aren't super hard, but definitely typify the "Pinnacles experience" of climbing on some potentially unstable exposed rock / knobs and wondering if they'll hold (and praying they do).
Hope that helps!
P.S. Redoing that rusty quarter inch bolt sounds like a great idea. Any takers?
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Brad -
I wasn't sure if you wanted me to provide details in the route list you have going according to your system above, or if you want to go ahead and do so. Let me know.
Gavin
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Thanks for the word Gavin, Going up sunday to replace that bolt and the right anchor bolt on "The Roof".
OHHHHHHHHHHHH it's gonna be hot!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mucci
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Gavin, I like "Gavin's Tangent." Take some credit where it is due. I'd put "possibly" or even "probably" after "FA" and before the details. Maybe it's been done and maybe someone placed the bolt and bailed. Or it was an aid route, or a girdle traverse. Et-cetera. No-one will ever know.
On formatting and the list above, I'll enter it later tonight, or you can as you want. I tried to develop the format to help some future dumb sap who does the 2023 edition of the book - I thought that a uniform format type of entry, listing all information then known might help prevent said future sap from having to chase all over hellangone looking for rumors. That plus I think it is quickly readable and understandable.
Well done.
And Josh, if you're there suffering and you've got time. both bolts on the upper part of Gutter are pretty bad. Thanks for spending time and $ to benefit all of us other climbers.
EDIT: I guess the way I set up the original list (as one entry), only I can add to that entry. So, yeah I'll try to add it in tonight or Sunday. Be sure to let me know if I miss on some details.
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Brad, sounds good in regards to posting a description, and thanks for the details... I'll check after it's posted.
Mucci, be careful in the heat! It's supposed to be over a hundred degrees the next few days! Yikes!
Gavin
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OK, Gavin, Dennis, there is a start. I tried to combine both your entries (plus my memory) into one concise listing. I didn't list variants, since most Pinns routes have a ton of the same. As always I've chosen the lower of two grades from a split grade. Also, I have no idea about stars, so make suggestions. Finally, the number, ending in ".9" seemed right given that it starts on Stupendous Man. Gavin, I'm guessing on the FA date, and it sounds like it may have been before this year. Do you have anything more specific?
Next step (for me anyway) is to print it out in the same type style and font size as the Pinns Guide. Then glue it in the book. Then climb it next season.
Gavin, come on up to granite at least once this season. Buncha Pinns climbers can show you around the Sonora Pass areas.
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AH, 100 Degrees? Bring it on........Training for this years wall season! I will try and replace all four, if not I will bump the Roof anchor till the fall.
Have fun this weekend gentlemen,
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Brad, thanks for the update; sounds good to me. Okay, for FA, I'll throw out March 5, 2009 as the date, near as I can tell. I probably got on it at least a bit before that as well, but that date I can remember for certain.
About Sonora Pass: yeah, that sounds fun. I think Alacia and I should be passing through that way in July, but if that's too late I could probably find a way up earlier too. I'll let you know.
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107 degrees of Bolt Manipulation
Oh man was it hot at the Pinns Today! Started at "Gavins Tangent", Placed a SS 3/8 x 3.25 w/ SS Fixe Hanger 2" left and 3" above the Old buttonhead. The clipping stance was not altered.
Then came the most punishing bolt removal of my life, Couldn't get the Tuning fork under the hanger (concaved placement). Out came the 4 foot Modified Crowbar! It became apparent very quickly how much I have to learn about removal. It felt as if I was cast into Hell for a hard day of labor, then spit out into a hot spring every 29 minutes just to make sure I was Properly suffering! After 2 hours of a knuckle wrecking crowbar party, the sucker popped out! Good lookin bolt if I may say so, Could still see original metal that had not rusted through. Whipped out my cake batter and talus mix and concocted a patch that mom would be proud of!
Did some moves on the fixed line, breaking out and left under the roof was fun and the moves didn't seem that bad, .9? Looks like a great line. Another variation one might choose is moving out and right from the roof, up the RFC which is wide, No pro above but could TR no problem.
Things I learned while replacing 1 bolt in 3 hours:
It's hard to start at the top and go down (got off route looking for the Gutter sorry Brad)
Never go to Pinns when it is over 100 degrees!
My method of removal is not the quickest.
Gather Many types of gravel/talus/dirt/munge for fine tuning the patch.
Yates bolt bags are the Best!
Hope somebody sends this thing, after all it has natural pro which is a plus in my book.
Mucci
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Nice, Josh. Thanks for the work.
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oh man, that's crazy!
Pinns season is over, for now. :)
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Mucci,
Thank you for fixing that. I am sure that route will get a few ascents when it cools down a bit.
I am thinking of going down there is weekend. If I do I will stay in the shade.
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I am thinking of going down there is weekend. If I do I will stay in the shade.
I'd join ya, but I'll be diving in the Channel Islands. Tough life. :ciappa:
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glad you're able to get out. take loads of pics of fishes.
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and don't let the sharkies get ya! :out:
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and don't let the sharkies get ya!
Don't have to worry this trip. South Africa in October....different story. For a mere $170 bucks I get to hop into a cage check them out. :thumbup:
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sweet, bring the chicken meat
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Hey Gang -
So, I have another question about a route on Discovery Wall... I did it today and don't see it on Brad's list or in the update list. I'm not sure if it qualifies as a full route or if folks have already been through this, but here goes.
It starts at the base of Swallow Crack and follows up a third or half of Swallow Crack. From there, you go straight up over an overhanging arete and right-facing dihedral (a bit of both) with some interesting pinches and a finger crack bit or two, through a few more burly moves, then into the 5.10b crux of Jorgie's Continuation and up through the rest of that climb. Between the Swallow Crack and Jorgie's Continuation parts, the moves were committing, with a couple of cool shifting balance bits. I would guess the moves are 5.11a, and definitely a bit more stout for shorter folks.
At any rate, just thought I'd throw that out there and see if other folks have been on it. In Brad's book on pg. 56 the moves take you between the middle "74" (Swallow Crack) and the first "77" (Jorgie's Continuation), over the right-facing dihedral depicted.
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Here we get into shades of gray. In a lot of Pinns areas "connections" and "link-ups" are easy and plentiful. When does a minor variation become a separate route, worthy of listing as such? Probably when climbers reach consensus that it's independent "enough."
So with the route Gavin describes, is it worthy of listing as a "separate route?" In my opinion, the fact that it is a lead and not a toprope weighs in heavily on the "separate route" side. Also an issue, is how much of it is an independent line (i.e. previously unclimbed rock)? Sounds to me like a significant amount of it is. In fact, it sounds like it covers more previously unclimbed rock than Triage, for example, which only covers a few feet of new ground.
Pick a name, Gavin, give it a rating. What's the FA date?
Finally, Gavin, you're doing this type of new stuff on Discovery now what, monthly? You're obviously bored. Cure the boredom, get on up here for a while in the off season.
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At this rate Gavin's going to have that girdle figured out. Oops did I spill the beans?
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1 Vote for "Jorgie Swallows"
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Finally, Gavin, you're doing this type of new stuff on Discovery now what, monthly? You're obviously bored. Cure the boredom, get on up here for a while in the off season.
Thought the cure for boredom was do climb every route in the guidebook.
1 more vote for Jorgie Swallows
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"Thought the cure for boredom was do climb every route in the guidebook."
Well, I've never been bored. But I only climb there during the right season.
EDITED after posting (to make it easier for simple minds :) )
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All the routes in one season?
Impressive.
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All the routes in one season?
Sure, if you climbed 5 to 7 days a week.
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Sorry for the late response... Busy with confirming fledge of prairie falcons from several nests.
Brad, I hear you about the gray area of new routes; if folks want to check it out before calling it a genuine route or just refer to it as a variation, that's fine by me. I'm guessing that between Swallow Crack and the crux of Jorgie's Continuation there are about 15 feet of moves... It does make for a nice, straight(ish) line up to the Jorgie's Continuation anchors.
In the event that folks do want it referred to as a new route, here's some info.:
Name: Jorgie's Swallow (...Funny, that really is the name I was thinking of before reading the replies!)
Grade: 5.10d (...Perhaps a bit harder given that the moves are rather difficult to protect, but I'll be conservative.)
FA: Well, it was June 6, 2009 for me, but I saw 2 women struggling on TR on it on May 31, 2009... They thought they were on Swallow Crack. Their names were Joanne and Abby, but I didn't get their last names.
Protection: Not great through the moves, and that makes the moves rather heady... You can use a piece or two on Swallow Crack, but otherwise there are one or two crack holes that are 0.5" x 2", then up to the crux bolt on Jorgie's Continuation. The best of the crack holes also felt like a critical hold to me, so best to place a piece after getting above it.
I think that's about it. Brad: yeah, I do want to get up your way. Just hard right now with raptors fledging young! I'm hoping to get up that way at the end of the month, but might just be for backpacking... I'll let you know.
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Whoops, just saw my typo on the route name... Go for "Jorgie Swallows" if that makes sense to everyone.
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Gavin, sounds like the newborns are keeping you very busy? Maybe you and Factor have a lot to talk about.
Sounds like a legit route (IMNeverHO the prior TR with hangs doesn't count as an ascent). Should I edit the list above, even though we're waaay out of season and I can hardly even spell Pinanclees? And BTW, since it is its own route, is it worth its own protection bolt (placed on lead of course, or be cursed to hell forever and ever)? Or since you led it bold, leave it that way?
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Ha! Good name choice G.
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no bolt.
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"no bolt."
When I predicted DES"s response, I only got it half right. It was easy to see "no bolt" coming, but I'm surprised he didn't add: "and rate it 5.9+."
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Brad, I'd say feel free to edit the list above if you have the time, otherwise it certainly could wait as we're into summer (though the weather has continued to be beautiful with highs in the LOW 80s).
As for a protection bolt, my instinct is to say "no," as folks that are uncomfortable with the lead can easily hike up top and set the route up on TR. And if you are leading it, folks will need trad pro anyway through the Swallow Crack start. But it's probably worth emphasizing that the lead is stout through the 5.10d parts and thin on pro. I'll try getting on it again soon and let you know if I think differently on the bolt vs. trad pro. Does that sound good?
About the fledglings... Yeah, 4 more nests to check this weekend, with 5 falcons apiece flying out. Keeping track of them all is like herding cats!
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As for a protection bolt, my instinct is to say "no," as folks that are uncomfortable with the lead can easily hike up top and set the route up on TR. And if you are leading it, folks will need trad pro anyway through the Swallow Crack start. But it's probably worth emphasizing that the lead is stout through the 5.10d parts and thin on pro. I'll try getting on it again soon and let you know if I think differently on the bolt vs. trad pro. Does that sound good?
Sounds good. As I see it this is completely your call; you're the first ascentionist and you decide these things.
And about the young'ns, sounds like you do have a lot in common with Factor (all right, his "fledgling" is human).
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OK, Gavin, how does that look (trying to extrapolate from what you wrote)?
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Brad, that sounds great. Thanks for the post!
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no bolt
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multiple bolts, no more than 2' apart
;)
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multiple bolts, no more than 2' apart
Shiny ones to!
Munge, let's live a little...3' apart
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I knew that would draw out the F4.
hahahah
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I knew that would draw out the F4.
hahahah
I'll even drill em with the drill Mr Mud gave me!
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DIE
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Though I know Brad doesn't always capture all top rope problems, as I was contemplating the upcoming pinns season in my "office," I noticed that no TR was provided for the RFC between 155 and 157 so thought I should mention it here. I seem to recall Clint and I discussed this corner before trying to figure out who had gone up it first. I figure the difficulty is around 10b/c, but my memory if fuzzy on the grade. But I distinctly recall the rock being pretty good with minimal flakey lichen.
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Do not have the guidebook at hand so it is a bit of a guess here, but would that be, between, The Beast and Cantalope Death?
Though I know Brad doesn't always capture all top rope problems, as I was contemplating the upcoming pinns season in my "office," I noticed that no TR was provided for the RFC between 155 and 157 so thought I should mention it here. I seem to recall Clint and I discussed this corner before trying to figure out who had gone up it first. I figure the difficulty is around 10b/c, but my memory if fuzzy on the grade. But I distinctly recall the rock being pretty good with minimal flakey lichen.
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Also, on Flumes Face, the line going directly straight down the rap from the right set of anchors at the top of 693 is a nice top rope problem. I don't recall the difficulty, but it was within keeping of the other lines in the area if not easier.
It's worth noting that the large ramp on the very left edge of the NE Face is an amazing meadowy ramp and well worth staying off of.
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Do not have the guidebook at hand so it is a bit of a guess here, but would that be, between, The Beast and Cantalope Death?
ya
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Waldo and I met today for an afternoon on the West Side. I got in 4 routes that I'd never done before (792 and counting). One of these was Josh's route The Wolf, on The Shepherd. The route description above is good, but I've got to note that the stopper placement he described is absolutely bomber, plus plus. A medium stopper, between large lodestones. Since I'm careless about having a nut tool at Pinns and neither Bob, not I could remove the nut without one, I had to hike all the way back out to The Shepherd, now with a tool, after dropping off the pack, just to clean my piece.
Good first day of Pinns season.
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Added a new route to the list today: Blackjack (route # 457.8, on Casino Rock).
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New addition today, Los Banditos 5.10a A1*. Route 815.4
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nice job guys!
quick clarify on the description...
"The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and two bolts."
are the two bolts the belay bolts, or lead protection bolts?
thx,
M
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Now clarified.
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Brad -
Rob and I will go finish our projects on the aforementioned location this season.
-jl
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Nice, lemme know when you get to it.
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Added to the list two routes on Tadpole Rock, one of which we discovered last year and the other done as a first ascent this last Saturday. I've never had a hammer "bounce off" the drill in such an odd way as it did while I was placing the third bolt. Bled like hell, but there I was, 6 feet above the last bolt (see photos below). The three bolts leading up and left from Brown Rice... is an ongoing project, leave it alone.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2742/4204333937_bc9897516c.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2649/4204333173_67983e717e.jpg)
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Ouch, BRUtaL Brad
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Tell the truth. Who did you piss off at the bar?
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really close to the eyeball, eh? yeeeshes
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Dang, that looks ugly. I must say that's why I wear sunglasses. I should post up a picture of the pair that I had on when I fell on TaoPani.
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I forgot to add that Tricia is part of the FA team on Brown Rice... because she followed me on it with no falls. I couldn't believe it, Tonya did the route later and thought it had a little 5.8 on it. And Tricia can't even reach the holds. But she is so light that she was also able to use holds that I'd never even consider. She's a cool kid.
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Go Tricia!
Heck, she's as probably as tall as me now!
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New or Newly Reported: near the top of the back side of the upper tier of the Balconies
There are a series of small mudlet pinnacles just south of the low point of the saddle between Crowley Towers and the highest summit of the Balconies formation.
Seen here:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4227525312_037eebff94.jpg)
I got on several but there are two that I thought worthwhile if one is in the vicinity. The view from the top of the Balconies is probably the best view in the Monument.
In the above pic, the left skyline shows two bumps/mudlets, from between these two climb the obvious and featured lines...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2794/4226742611_b50489c3af.jpg)
Balcony Bump? 5.3? (left northerly one shown above)
FA unknown
Balcony Balls? 5.3? (right southerly one shown above)
This one has bigger cobbles and is more hollow sounding, but seemed pretty stable.
FA unknown
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Thief. I cruised under these three years ago on a solo, wet day, while I was checking stuff out for the book. I'd meant to return to the arete in the right of your photo to do an FA with the girls. Maybe let Katie place a bolt. Alas, the FA is now taken forever. And, of course, as you point out, it may well have been "scrambled up" already. If I remember, the shallow water streak/groove to that arete's right looked worthwhile too.
These two seem like legit routes. Should they be written up and added to the list? If you want I'll do so. Can you give some more detail?
EDIT: If I recall these aretes are about midway from the Towers to the top edge of the Balconies, maybe 300 yards south of the Towers? And not really visible from any distance due to intervening ridges. I don't think any sane approach could be made other than by turning off from the normal Crowley Towers approach to the right/north a few hundred yards before the Towers? (I say "sane" because on the day I was there I continued way down and around, eventually coming out on the Balconies Cliff Trail way north of the Balconies, but that would be a dumb way to approach these).
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They seemed pretty legit, especially the one on the right (So.) even if easy, and there is room for more lines in this vicinity. It's a really nice location. I don't recall a groove, but I was taking the easiest line since some of the cobbles sounded hollow.
Definitely agree on the approach. Except if one was topping out on the Balconies and decided to 'summit' one could knock off a couple extra 'lines'.
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Definitely agree on the approach. Except if one was topping out on the Balconies and decided to 'summit' one could knock off a couple extra 'lines'.
Top out on a Balconies route? You are on Crack. Lava Falls doesn't top out.
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Yeah, but if one wanted to, one could top out on any of several Balconies routes and then use Exit Route to top out ( a few 5.6 moves). This would put one within a few hundred yards of the routes Rob did/stole ;D
EDIT: Wrong. Exit Route leaves one below a huge, upper tier of Balconies, the tier with no routes except on it's very far left (where If We Bolt it Lies). So there is one viable approach.
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probably not a likely approach from the front side and even if so, the objective would be the wall not the little pinnacles, so from a 'usually approached' probably only worth mentioning the one from Crowley.
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Balcony Bumps Updated and consolidated (not including roped climbs finished today and mentioned only because they have good rock on the Second Bump):
First Bump
Arborist - 5.easy - Going south from the saddle between Crowley towers and the upper summit of the Balconies, ascend the first of three miniature conical pinnacles via a fallen dead tree. Be delicate on the tree as it may not last long. Descend by reversing the moves. FA unknown, maybe munge 1/10/2010
Second Bump
North Arete - 5.3 - 25-35'? Starts just to climber's left of tree. Good rock under the lichen. Some pockets could protect the leader. Descend the Fourth Class route. FA unknown, most likely munge 1/10/2010 (thick lichen, untouched found on this potential FA) Maybe call this Mumps?
Eastern Lodestone - 5.3 - 20-25'? Starts on the big lodestone, near the top move slightly left. Mostly good rock. FA unknown, maybe munge 1/10/2010, since no else would bother with an obscure alternate start. I have no life. Maybe call this Humps?
Balcony Bump - aka Fourth Class Descent Route - 4th class - 20'? FA unknown - really good rock.
SW corner - 5.4 - Start just left of the Fourth Class route on good rock. The one pocket down low wouldn't protect the crux move going over the steeper top. FA unknown, most likely munge 1/10/2010 due to a large natural hand hold cobble that was en route that came off with barely a touch. Maybe call this Clumps?
Third Bump
Balcony Balls - 5.3 Bigger cobbles but more hollow sounding. On blunted North Arete, locatd directly opposite from The Fourth Class route on Balcony Bump.
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OK, just added four routes in the Crowley Towers/Balconies Bumps area of the West Side (all four start with the number 709).
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Two or three Previously Unreported routes...
1. ??? 25' ish 5.5 solo on south side of a pinnacle just south of the trail about 175 yards east of The Lump. FA unknown
here's a photo of the line...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4320965129_2e2f415fbe.jpg)
the route is top left of this overview photo...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4320975893_1e5245a7a9.jpg)
2. ??? 25' ish 5.4 solo on east side of a pinnacle just west of The Lump. FA unknown. The pinn is marked by a narrow jumble of rock nestled against the East face. Climb the ridge by gaining the extended part and hoping across to the main formation. On the main formation it is slightly pinker and denuded of black lichen by years of ascents. Above photo taken from atop this formation for reference.
3. ??? 25' ish 5.4 solo on east face of pinnacles just west of the The Lump. FA unknown, possibly Rob Behrens 1/31/2010. Climb the face 6-8' left of a left facing chimney formed by the above route's ridge. It ascends good knobs to a mossy step. downclimb the route or downclimb #2 above.
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for what it's worth, there are a whole series of mini lumps along this ridge that are easy boulder problems or 4th class summits depending on how you define it that are less than 25'. They are both east and west of The Lump.
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Added the superb routes of The Jungle Slab today. Enjoy repeating these! (Heavy, heavy sarcasm.)
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Modified the entry about Gavin's Tangent. Added two stars, where previously there were none. Changed the description regarding the protection placed under the roof (to "good" from "OK"). Changed the description of where the climb goes (changed slightly - it goes straight up to the roof, not up and left). Added an explanation about why these changes were made.
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Made a few modifications to the Blackjack description today based on an ascent of the route. Changed the description of the gear leading up to the bolt to "some good gear," from "good gear," to make it clear that the pro leading up to that point is adequate, but not wonderful. Added the word "intimidating" to the description of the crux, which is quite steep. Left the grade (which the first ascent authors thought might be too conservative) since two of us agreed that, once it was passed, it seemed 5.9. Not a clean route, but worth doing.
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Added the new route just established by Fabrizio and Josh: "The Royal Flush," on Casino Rock. Led this yesterday and really enjoyed it.
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On April 14, 2010 I added Abuela Cochinita to the list of new routes.
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Made some modifications to Flue Fire's description today, based on recent ascents. The only significant change was of the rating: to 5.11a, from 5.10d.
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Added two newly established routes on The Hippopotamus: Hungry, Hungry Hippo and From Dawn to Tusk.
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Very cool list, thanks for putting it together and keeping it current!
I'm heading out to Casino Rock this weekend and wondering if you could help me out with some info:
1. How high is it? (Will my 50m rope be sufficient for TR-ing?)
2. If I lead Drilling, will I be able to scramble over to set up the others on TR?
3. Bolts or rings on top?
Thanks,
~Dan
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1. The height is in the guidebook (topo, page 181). Look at route # 457 and you'll see its height and the approximate height of the rock itself.
2. Yes, although the "scramble" to get to the top of route # 455 is pretty much class four (read the intro to Casino Rock on page 180 and look at route # 459).
3. The topo tells you about the top anchors. The summit bolts shown in the topo have no chains and no rings.
Sorry, can't get more specific than that - gotta make sure you've got the book. If climbers don't buy it how am I ever going to clear out my garage? You do have it don't you?
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Mud-
#1 All of the routes at casino are longer than 100 ft.
#2 I assume you meant lead "Climbing" instead of "Drilling", in which case there is no way to top rope any climb at casino rock with one rope. You scramble off the backside of each route and walk down the right side of casino to return to the base.
3# There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of "Crap Chute 5.9R".
Hope this helps, have fun out there and welcome to the mudpile!
Mucci
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By Drilling I think he means Drilling in my Dreams 5.7. "Drilling" is on Casino.
I think what he is asking is can they be top roped with a two 50 m ropes. I might be wrong on this.
I think you might be able to TR a couple of them with two 50 m ropes but I am not sure since it has been a long time since I have been out there and I have not done the new routes.
I know some of them cannot be TR'd with two 50 m ropes. Casino is taller than it looks.
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Thanks, Guys, for responding so swiftly. I only get up to Pinnacles every few years and since I'm currently a poor-out-of-work bum, I'm surviving on my old purple second edition by Rubine, which doesn't have the height. This information is very helpful; I'll bring two ropes. You were right: I'm leading the 7 to TR the rest if possible. I appreciate the help and the contact with who look like people who appreciate PNM like I do.
~Dan
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No Country for Old Men, very chossy and dirty, nice views and an interesting ending. 5.7? run-out or spicy until it cleans up. Our first Pinns FA. 3X with the third bold being in not so great rock and a bit of a spinner. No anchors yet, we were not sure of the best way to put them in and had to meet others.
This route is on the ridge formation between Chimney Seep and the Anvil on the south-west face.
FA Jeff and Steve Imai
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OK, Jeff, see if I got the description right. I think it's good at least about where the route is located since Jim and I spent some time looking it over.
Nice name. So am I allowed to climb it (I'll be 50 this year).
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Brad,
Sounds good- It seems the formation has no name so we thought about calling it Byzantium. in keeping with the name of the climb. A couple more shots
Getting in the last bolt
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n96/uncle-stinky/ncfom3.jpg)
First lead.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n96/uncle-stinky/pinnacles010.jpg)
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OK, Jeff, check it now?
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Yea Brad that looks good to me. The climb is destined to be an obscurity, chossy rock after a long approach. I think it should be a requirement that any party climbs it has to have at least one person over 50.
I am not sure of the best way to get there. We have approached it three different ways.
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Edited the entry for No Country for Old Men to reflect an ascent of the route. BTW, per the FA author's (tongue in cheek) request, I am 49 years old, and thus not yet "over 50," but Bob is 64 (?) and thus of "legal" age.
We approached as for Chimney Sweep (but cut right at the last minute instead of left), which involves very little brush. We descended by way of The Knee and Maniac's Delight, which was brushy. I'd take the longer walk in by way of Chimney Sweep.
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You got us beat 104 vs. 113 years :D
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Added Keller Arete to the list tonight. Named in honor of one of the first ascentionists who placed his first bolt on his second first ascent (hand drilled, on lead, done with extreme enthusiasm).
Munge, I've been thinking about the rating. I really think those last moves were 5.8, not 5.7. I like to be conservative, but I think calling it 5.7 might cross the line into sandbagging. Your thoughts?
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Also added tonight: A Rock, A Hammer and a Black Eye. Alan thinks he's really funny, naming this route for the (ahem) mishap I had while drilling on the route to the right, Brown Rice and Boogers. Too bad about the no stars; this one looked really good, but turned out to be only OK.
I've still got to redpoint this. I placed the last two bolts on Sunday, leaving Alan fresh for what was (in my opinion) a brilliant redpoint. I followed but was so pumped from drilling that I hung on at least half the bolts. Alan's stance placement of the third bolt last season was also particularly notable. It was a tenuous stance that he was only able to maintain by bracing the hand holding the drill hard up against the side of a loadstone.
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Added Keller Arete to the list tonight. Named in honor of one of the first ascentionists who placed his first bolt on his second first ascent (hand drilled, on lead, done with extreme enthusiasm).
Munge, I've been thinking about the rating. I really think those last moves were 5.8, not 5.7. I like to be conservative, but I think calling it 5.7 might cross the line into sandbagging. Your thoughts?
tenatively leave it at that, no prob, but get more people on it to get some consensus and remove the loose stuff. Like I told Josh last night, I do the step right move to the first bolt I drilled in a very easy way. It's only that last move. It is steeper than the rest of the climb.
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but get more people on it
Yeah? I should maybe wave my fairy wand and make them do it? No-one's going up to repeat that route this century. That is unless we name it "Little Discovery Wall," or "Upper Bear Gulch."
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Just say 5.7 and call it a day. Who is going to gripe if it's a bit heady for a 5.7. We have standards to maintain....
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I modifed some of the directions today on Keller Arete and The 800 Club, and reversed their order (they were listed from right to left, which I changed to left to right). Also, I added the newly discovered and newly established routes The Keep and Party of Three.
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Added one star (for a total of two) to Abuela Cochinita (two seems to be a pretty good concensus). Also, inserted the following four routes (all "found," none are new):
191.8 Pistolero Pinnacle Third Class;
191.9 Bandit Chimney 5.5 R;
560.3 Poached Pig 5.10b (TR)**; and
571.81 Quasimodo Pinnacle 5.7 R A1
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I moved from the private list to the public list the following route:
579.5 What I’ve Been Missing Out On 5.7
And, I've got to comment on the name; it has a great story. Apparently Mucci and Munge had been telling John (one of the first ascentionists) that he just had to get down to Pinns to climb. What a great place, all the usual lines and persuasion. John finally took their advice. And got roped into an FA. This name resulted.
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* and how stuff kept falling off the route, protection was scant, and the lead was bold. In the best of the tradition. Nice job!
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OK, I moved Peeling Away onto the public list,; it now appears above.
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Newly found/reported:
due west of Teaching Rock up the slope lying less than 40 yards from the trail are a series of small bumps and pinnacles. Some are larger than others. I ended up bouldering all of them today, except for two TRs that I rope solo'd. Only two of the formations are 'significant'...
1. large capstone block boulder problem 5.7? (maybe harder for shorter folks) on top of a short ridge. Approach from the uphill side (West) either at the gap on the north side (5.4?) or the very terminus of the ridge (5easy), but continue up to the base of the block via an easy fiftch class move or two. The final block is surmounted by a high step and pull from edges (5.7). To descend, scootch to the lip and drop (very carefully) onto the ledge. This route has been done many times as the holds are clean and solid. It probably has been left out due to it's size and proximity so much other good rock nearby. From the uphill side it looks like a rodent, so I'd call it the Gopher. Half star.
2. just north of this formation at about the same level you'll find what looks like a low angle slab. It has one left to right leaning finger crack that starts with a shallow dihedral. This crack appears to take good pro at a couple spots that seem sufficient, so it is very likely this was lead in the past. On top is a rusting quarter inch hex head bolt that does not rotate and looks ok for a quarter incher. I backed it up with a 2 and 3 camalot 20 back undernearth a boulder. It felt about 5.6, but I was pulling rope thru a gri gri. It finishes left or just lefft of the arete at teh top. no star.
a. I also TR'd climber's right side of this formation. Very mossy down low. A couple of decent knobs get you up the bottom steep section. It finishes just right of the arete at the top using a med size scoop. Maybe 5.7. Calling this side "Chossy Chosserson" no star.
3. further north is a formation with a big flat area on top. perhaps 50 yards north roughly the same level? On it's north side is a decent looking short wall. Climbers right on this face has a low angle slab.
a. Fourth class on the far right of the slab (done before by many as an approach).
b. closer in on the slab before it gets steep on the left is a bit of clean rock. Probably 5.4. Short. For lack of route names or history, maybe Skully will let us call it Nihilistic Trivialist?
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I added today two routes Mungeclimber found and climbed two weekends ago, which he showed me yesterday (and I got to climb them too). These are: 203.3 The Gopher, and 203.4 The Proctor. (Both first described in his entry made just above this one.)
I also added a route that he and I "found" and climbed yesterday that must surely have been climbed many times before (climbers have walked by it for decades, and it appeared very clean). This is: 405.4 Pea Break.
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hahahah, he said Pea
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Well, so what? Did you see what was under there?
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sadly yes
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Wow, nice duck.
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fowl? ;D
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BY, take a look at route 412's picture on page 164. After looking at the position of the start bolt, I think the line drawn in should show it starting slightly lower. The description covers it, but just an fyi edit call out for next edition.
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I don't have a copy of the book down here, so I emailed your comment to myself at home. I will look at it when I return. Thanks.
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I added route 462.8 Chute the Moon 5.6*. This had not previously been on the list at the request of the first ascent party. It is also mentioned in MUCCI's trip report "Initiation Fees" from March 28, 2011.
This is a long and fun route.
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I added Mark and Adam's new route 182.7 Miscegenation today, but subject to modification as to stars (I entered it with none).
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BY, fwiw, "the gopher" shape came from looking at it uphill. The boulder is in the shape of the gopher from there, not just the head. no big. it's all just made up stuff anyways.
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I added today the route 462.6 Initiation Fees on The Forgotten Sister. Since Initiation Fees is close to, and earlier in order than Chute the Moon, I modified the Chute the Moon description slightly.
John prepared an excellent photo/topo that I will link to both route descriptions when I have a chance.
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BY, fwiw, "the gopher" shape came from looking at it uphill. The boulder is in the shape of the gopher from there, not just the head. no big. it's all just made up stuff anyways.
I thought it was named after you since people always say "Dude, go for more beer" when you show up with the BLL.
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I thought it was named after you since people always say "Dude, go for more beer" when you show up with the BLL.
very few have said no to BLLs. Just sayin.
actually I should have said "when viewed from uphill" from the formation.
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Added today route 452.3 Donna Gee.
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I added route 226.5, Twisted Sister to the list today. This is the same route that Munge started a thread on about two months ago (asking whether anyone had soloed it and whether anyone was going to finish it). Although two Masters of Mud thought they'd soloed it, upon inspection of the line, both realized that this wasn't the line they'd soloed.
So, concluding that it had been started but never climbed, we finished the route
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Hatchet - East Face
Approximately 35' feet left of The Hatchet route is, what appears to be, an abandoned aid line. Several 'dowels' go straight up then go left for 1 dowel placement, then down slightly and left 2 more dowel placements. I scanned further but did not see evidence of further upward progress. The dowels are thin. The first one (not shown in the pic) is bent. I believe there were 5 vertical dowels, and 3 horizontalish dowels.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6409849713_2492d0f067_b.jpg)
There is a stud anchor at the base of this line, out 10', which appears to be used for roped solo establishing of the line. The same type of stud bolts can be found at the bases of two different routes on Gerties.
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I've finally gotten into the swing of Pinnacles season. I just added a new route: 709.93 The Back Nine 5.10b**
I know of two other new routes I've still got to get to: Straight Up, Blister in the Sun, and there is one newly found route to add too: Desperate Abandon 5.6 R
I'll get these posted up soon.
And, Rob, given the state of what you found on The Hatchet, I think that might be better called a project, or even a failed project instead of a route?
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Yeah, I don't disagree. Wasn't sure where might be the best place for obvious projects. I suppose we could start a separate thread for known projects or abandoned or failed projects?
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Bolt it!!!!
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I just added the Discovery Wall route Straight Up (number 104.2) to the list.
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I added Blister in the Sun (route number 192.5).
I think I've got the information right on this, but I haven't climbed the route yet (I haven't even been to the East Side this season), and I don't know the first ascentionists, so I'm not sure. Is anyone here in touch with Dave and/or Scott? Would someone ask them to have a look at what I've got here and help me with any corrections? Adam? Mark? Thanks.
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Just brought things up to the present (I think/as far as I know) by adding routes 711.2 Gold Line and 711.3 Desperate Abandon. Of these, Gold Line was established just yesterday, and the fixed rope on the found route Desperate Abandon has been viewed for years (I first saw it years ago, and I know Rob had seen and maybe gone to where it was lassoed over a horn at the top before - didn't you?).
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Desperate Abandon??
is that the white rope on top of Balconies?
stand by, I need to scroll up and read
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Desperate Abandon??
is that the white rope on top of Balconies?
It was, we removed it (Jim's keeping it as a souvenir):
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6503631829_f06fe9e3a6_z.jpg)
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edit - yep, that's the one I found, and threatened to go clean up. Thought it would be a neat moderate to the top. Looks like quality is lacking. What kind of bolts?
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The first one is a small Star Dryvin with an SMC hanger. The second is a not very good 3/8" Star Dryvin with a home made "pry it out" shaped hanger. The rope was shredded in places, but not parted. It was tied to the second bolt - which is why one couldn't pull the rope up from the top. I've got theories about how it all got there (along the lines of a roped solo ascent ending in a rainstorm or darkness and a lasso to keep the rope in place until the climber could come back, place a top anchor and rap down to recover his gear - which never happened), and so I gave it that name.
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Is that one of storms ropes???
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The first one is a small Star Dryvin with an SMC hanger. The second is a not very good 3/8" Star Dryvin with a home made "pry it out" shaped hanger. The rope was shredded in places, but not parted. It was tied to the second bolt - which is why one couldn't pull the rope up from the top. I've got theories about how it all got there (along the lines of a roped solo ascent ending in a rainstorm or darkness and a lasso to keep the rope in place until the climber could come back, place a top anchor and rap down to recover his gear - which never happened), and so I gave it that name.
sounds like other gear was recovered?!
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Nothing there except the two bolts and the rope. No 'biners and the rope was tied to the second bolt (which is why I hypothesized a solo ascent - or why fix the rope to the bolt at all?).
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I added another route to the list today: 97.9 Lost Horizons - Fat Crack Finish 5.8 * As indicated in the added text, this must have been climbed many times before.
Joe and I had a great day on Friday the 13th (thanks again Joe for letting me crash at your fantastic Santa Cruz pad). We finished the day with Joe setting out to lead Horizon Line. However, due to my misdirecting him (memo to self: always rely on what the book says, not on the memory), he finished on a wide crack to the left of Horizon Line. It was obvious to both of us that this had been climbed before, and that it was a significant enough variation to be listed as its own route.
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Maybe it was put there as a quicker way to get to the top versus having to hike around. Kind of a permanent short cut.
Nothing there except the two bolts and the rope. No 'biners and the rope was tied to the second bolt (which is why I hypothesized a solo ascent - or why fix the rope to the bolt at all?).
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I added a newly established route, 557.7 Stepping Stone 5.9 R
Thanks again Gavin and Alacia for a great day on Saturday. Naturally I called home late enough that Vicki learned that we hiked out by headlamp. My reputation with my wife was further nailed down (but, no, she wasn't surprised).
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Maybe it was put there as a quicker way to get to the top versus having to hike around. Kind of a permanent short cut.
Well, except that it was unattached at the top. The only thing keeping the rope in place was the fact that it was lassoed around a shallow, low angle bump of rock.
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lassoed around a shallow, low angle bump of rock.
and?
sounds like pro to me... at Pinns
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and?
sounds like pro to me... at Pinns
No, no, no. Lassoed, shallow bumps of rock are only pro at Pinnacles if your name is Clint Cummins ;D
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I added today six routes that were established last spring to the left of Tourist Trap. All six have route numbers that start with "13."
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I also added West of the Sun and Hajime to the list.
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Battle Hamster!
hahahaha
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Having read Atomizer's comment that the original (poorly placed) anchor for Straight Up has been removed, but that the two lead bolts are still in place, I modified the route rating and description to be consistent with what is there.
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(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/59793_10151218772498886_2082030811_n.jpg)
Encouraging JC to post up by getting some details pasted up...
Tentative name for new line in the Pipsqueak Pinnacle area...
Little Scrapper - located 10' left of Little Pipper. no bolts no gear. FA via onsight solo
height? little less than Little Pipper
rating?
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Encouraging JC to post up by getting some details pasted up...
Tentative name for new line in the Pipsqueak Pinnacle area...
Little Scrapper - located 10' left of Little Pipper. no bolts no gear. FA via onsight solo
height? little less than Little Pipper
rating?
I will have to go back out and climb it again along with your Little Pipper and then give it a rating.
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let's do Scragglepuss while we're there.
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let's do Scragglepuss while we're there.
i was thinking about trying it the first time we went to Pipsqueak until i read Bob's review here
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Rock-Climbing-2259/2008/10/Fun-Pinnacles-Routes.htm (http://en.allexperts.com/q/Rock-Climbing-2259/2008/10/Fun-Pinnacles-Routes.htm)
scroll all the way down and he says it's awful. it also didn't help that Pipsqueak's Reg Rte(5.4*) was only my 5th onsight lead, so i was a bit intimidated by any 5.7's at that point.
i checked the FA info after we were there last weekend and saw you and Brad established Scragglepuss - so i think i need to give it a shot with no preconceived notions.
i did notice that the first bolt is quite a bit lower than Rightfoot (i led RF last weekend) - tense getting to that sucker but a fun route! maybe Bob was just biased b/c RF was his FA :)
on that subject do you know if the Bazaar will take pro up high in the crack - no mention of it in the book.
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398.1 Pipsqueak Pinnacle area...
Little Scrapper 5.3R
This 25 foot solo is located about 8 feet left of Little Pipper on the same formation.
No bolts, no gear. Start up the easy ramp to steeper climbing above.
FA via onsight solo - John Cook, Chris Bencomo 10-27-12
I'd like to add a caveat here that this route was a happy accident - I thought it was Little Pipper.
It would make a good warmup for doing that route, especially with regard to testing out the rock quality.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/59793_10151218772498886_2082030811_n.jpg)
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While TR'ing on Simian this weekend, I remembered that there is a TR problem that goes straight up from the start of the 10c bolted lead. I had done it last season I think. It's 5.10ish. Kinda hard. Worth doing if you're there.
I'll add a better description later for you wild apes that must get your simian on.
edit - Calling it "Human, All Too Human" 5.10* TR for lack of any history on the problem.
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While TR'ing on Simian this weekend, I remembered that there is a TR problem that goes straight up from the start of the 10c bolted lead. I had done it last season I think. It's 5.10ish. Kinda hard. Worth doing if you're there.
I'll add a better description later for you wild apes that must get your simian on.
sorry bro - i don't think that was a new line - from the topo it looks like you were on Little Big Dog Direct 5.11aR - it starts at the undercut and goes up to the bolt you had fixed as a directional...talk about a gnarly lead! sheeesh!!
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I wasn't referring to the one I did Sunday. The line that goes straight up from the start of the 10c is in between Smiling Simian 5.8 and the leadable Little Big Dog 10c (after it leaves the start of the 10c - it shares the start. The 10c start is the easy side (left) of where I went up).
During that day I had forgetten where Windmills was. No wonder I thought it was hard, that tiny pocket move doesn't go like I had first tried it. Windmills is slightly further climber's right.
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I wasn't referring to the one I did Sunday. The line that goes straight up from the start of the 10c is in between Smiling Simian 5.8 and the leadable Little Big Dog 10c (after it leaves the start of the 10c - it shares the start. The 10c start is the easy side (left) of where I went up).
During that day I had forgetten where Windmills was. No wonder I thought it was hard, that tiny pocket move doesn't go like I had first tried it. Windmills is slightly further climber's right.
10-4 Big Dog!
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Mucci, did you report your route on that formation on the West Side that is near the picnic area?
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I added the following three routes to the list tonight:
397.9 Little Scrapper 5.3 R
707.3 Manatee 5.3
709.5 Cover Girl 5.8 *
There are two more very new existing routes that are on my list, but my descriptions are still incomplete until I get out and climb them. I will add these two as soon as I am able.
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I added the following three routes to the list tonight:
397.9 Little Scrapper 5.3 R
707.3 Manatee 5.3
709.5 Cover Girl 5.8 *
thanks Brad.
Now I need to find a longer line somewhere and get some bolts in :)
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Brad confirmed Manatee yesterday and made some corrections to the route description.
thanks Brad!
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Gavin and Alacia and I added another lead bolt to Stepping Stone today and installed the second summit bolt and equalized chains. I modified the description accordingly.
I also soloed Little Scrapper. I modified the description a little and changed the rating to 5.4. I'm not so good at rating climbs in that range, but if Manatee is 5.3, Little Scrapper is 5.4 or 5.5. (John, would you review and approve the changes please?)
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I also soloed Little Scrapper. I modified the description a little and changed the rating to 5.4. John, would you review and approve the changes please?
Looks good. I agree that it is a bit easier than Little Pipper 5.5 so 5.4 works.
We'll see how long the holds last on either - provided they ever get repeated.
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I added a new Jim and Jon McConachie route to the list today:
273.2 Cheeso Pani 5.9 ***
This was a real treat to lead - excellent rock, good pro (at least after the first 15 feet) and cool moves (really exposed stemming and a short finishing hand crack that was truly fine). Gavin also thought it was excellent.
This was my 850th route at Pinnacles.
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dang!
closures be loomin, the productive be boomin!
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Mr Mud will catch up once he finishes his house.
I'll even give him a couple highlighters..
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I will never make 800
really just want to be able to climb 5.11 again
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I added route 352.9 today: Primrose Pinnacle.
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I added route 352.9 today: Primrose Pinnacle.
I got dizzy reading the approach instructions!
I think you guys did this FA just to keep me going further and further out!!
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I got dizzy reading the approach instructions!
I think you guys did this FA just to keep me going further and further out!!
Nope, we were just looking around.
There is one slab out there in particular that looked intriguing from two hundred yards away. Up closer it looked like it would make a nice, 150 foot long 5.6 or so route (or two or three). Up really close it became apparent that the base of the slab is guarded by - no shit - at least a quarter acre of poison oak, right up to the base of the rock. No thanks.
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talk about a moat that works
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Cheeso Pani?
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talk about a moat that works
Yeah, I don't mind trimming away a little P.O. But this was of blackberry patch proportions.
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Dave and I hiked out there way back in the day and walked away for the same reason. We found a dried up skeleton ( of a deer ). Sadly we did not find that elusive 3 star 5.11 water streak.
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Today I discovered two new routes on the north side of the Third Sister. Just left of Second Sister NE Chimney route, below and right of the "meadow" on page 92. I rope solo'd the one of the right (arête). 5.5ish. Quite good quality knobs and a worthy addition of a route for about 30-40' of climbing. It has 3 SS 3/8" bolts to protect the leader. There is no bolted anchor and no great gear placements to clean the route when done. As a result I used the tree. However, DO NOT USE THE TREE anymore. The erosion around the tree could be a problem. This climb NEEDS AN ANCHOR to rap from, or it should go up the arête to the top.
As I was climbing, the QOTSA song "Little Sister" came on, if this route doesn't already have a name "Living life behind the shadows" would be quite perfect in my mind since I don't think anyone has posted up about these routes. I posted primarily so that we get the anchor situation squared away on the next ascent. Please let me know if you need a hand. If you don't use the name, I surely will. :)
The other route I carefully top roped to the left. It is either not finished, is an R rated route, gets dirty fast at the 1/2 height mark of the other line, or perhaps is a variant start to the arête. It has 2 bolts, and the bottom moves are fun, and slightly harder, perhaps 5.6.
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Dude - when were you out there? We did Lost Sister to end the day.
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In the morning before anyone was on disco.
anyone know about these?
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Today I discovered two new routes on the north side of the Third Sister. Just left of Second Sister NE Chimney route, below and right of the "meadow" on page 92. I rope solo'd the one of the right (arête). 5.5ish. Quite good quality knobs and a worthy addition of a route for about 30-40' of climbing. It has 3 SS 3/8" bolts to protect the leader. There is no bolted anchor and no great gear placements to clean the route when done. As a result I used the tree. However, DO NOT USE THE TREE anymore. The erosion around the tree could be a problem. This climb NEEDS AN ANCHOR to rap from, or it should go up the arête to the top.
Munge,
Clint and I put up those two routes during a break in rebolting one day. The right route is called 'Your Sister' and I believe Clint wanted to call the other route 'Twisted Sister.' BTW, the route on the left is meant to join the right route at it's second bolt.
Interesting information about the tree at the top. It seemed OK when we were there. Hmm. I will have to get back there and take a look. The normal descent from that area is to go up and left 50 feet to a notch on the left and then down climb(5.0) as per Brad's guidebook.
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Munge,
Clint and I put up those two routes during a break in rebolting one day. The right route is called 'Your Sister' and I believe Clint wanted to call the other route 'Twisted Sister.' BTW, the route on the left is meant to join the right route at it's second bolt.
Interesting information about the tree at the top. It seemed OK when we were there. Hmm. I will have to get back there and take a look. The normal descent from that area is to go up and left 50 feet to a notch on the left and then down climb(5.0) as per Brad's guidebook.
Bruce, the route name Twisted Sister got used two years ago for a new route on the right side of the west face of the First Sister (it's in the list of new routes, in that thread). And while there is no rule against using the same name for two different routes, it might be awkward to do so?
Any chance you know the ratings and the dates of the first ascents? Rob, you didn't post any thoughts about ratings either?
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I did post rating thots Brad.
thx Bruce. Nice one on the right!
the on the left was fun, but too short.
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I did post rating thots Brad.
Son of a bi..., you sure did. I read your whole damn post the morning you put it up and then as of this morning, somehow, I had in mind that you didn't comment about ratings.
Oh well, I suppose we should be glad that I can remember your name.
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Son of a bi..., you sure did. I read your whole damn post the morning you put it up and then as of this morning, somehow, I had in mind that you didn't comment about ratings.
Oh well, I suppose we should be glad that I can remember your name.
Maybe it was because he forgot the ugh in thoughts.
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Brad,
not a problem on the name. It can take Clint and I years to name the climbs we do, in fact,
I don't even know if we ever named some of the routes we put up in Tuolumne! Let me
get back to you with the details. Yeah, right route 5.5, left route 5.6 maybe 5.7. I am
thinking February 27th, but I may be wrong.
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Maybe it was because he forgot the ugh in thoughts.
No, that's just him being cooler, better at net-speak than us old folks.
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l33t
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l33t
I agree!
ESAD and GSYT too. ;)
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Somebody just shoot me....
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Clint and I put up those two routes during a break in rebolting one day.
Interesting information about the tree at the top. It seemed OK when we were there. Hmm. I will have to get back there and take a look. The normal descent from that area is to go up and left 50 feet to a notch on the left and then down climb(5.0) as per Brad's guidebook.
KC and I did both these routes yesterday. I led them both and she followed. They are both fun - although once you do one - since they conjoin - it makes the other a bit anticlimactic. The 5.5 is very well protected with the first bolt much lower than expected for Pinns. The top bolt was also a surprise - but nice to have as you exit on to the slippery dried grass and over to the tree. The 5.6/7 has a bit more spice. Unfortunately the sun was directly in our faces after the first bolt, so it was a little hard to rate objectively. The holds are plentiful and positive - so if the sun hadn't been blinding me - I would probably put this one at 6. KC had a little more trouble - probably a height dependent thing. Comparing it to other short routes we've done - we joked and said it is harder than the Snout but definitely easier than Cinder. That might not be the best comparison since Cinder is quite the spicey little 7.
The tree is not an issue as long as you have a follower - but I agree with Rob that there should be an anchor. It does not need to be a rappel anchor since there is an established "walk off"/downclimb. Even a one bolt anchor with body position would suffice. I stayed on the uphill side of the tree to belay. One problem with belaying from the tree is the shrub between the tree and the natural high point of the climb where it is best to walk across toward the downclimb. I had to flip the rope over that shrub before KC followed and then had her flip it back over before she came across the slippery dried grass. The second time up she was comfortable enough to just untie at the high point and walk across. That natural high point is probably a good spot for the anchor (see yellow arrow on photo below). It would put climbers in a position to safely walk across directly to the downclimb and completely avoid the area of erosion around the tree. The downclimb is shown on the N side topo on page 92. It is listed as "approach to Third Sister" - third class. I think it would be good to include - scramble off/downclimb the "approach to Third Sister" (shown on N side topo) - third class - in the route descriptions. This is as steep or steeper than any 3rd class I've been on at Pinns (Possibility Pinnacle and the Regular Route on Beak Peak come to mind). We haven't ever looked at or used the tree to step across the gully as described in the paragraph below Third Sister on page 95. There are two paths shown on the topo and we evidently use the lower path by walking up the gully and then making a few moves up a short steep face on big holds and excellent rock - which some folks might say is 5th class (Bruce says 5.0).
Suggested anchor location and little "problem" shrub. It's only a problem if you're using the tree to belay.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eFQi_JpGD40415CIaXU7t0PT-Y42owxnHrVKxYDM5L-VzILbR7QRmM4lnvwLWgJgsZ2MdZlnLVNY5JktiT3r_Q952xB_qkewcQcRiXXaeg8Hz6EP658qSur8-7fYfoKuH1HhXSeO96O_C5JY-oLNON=w662-h495-no?authuser=0)
Area of erosional concern around the tree.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eWKXuMj8Yqwt9kuN8GHTvd27nrQPr8TTaexfnDqTBPdlTtk4FTqzYwZPBYoiAcQ7CvAuDMj4xkUY-95T9VKZVWozUckU80IWZQz5J04SEo1YbZoKKCygUeN3IvBEoQ4A1cVMl7uFg5ZaDWt4Ci7n9W=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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JC and KC, I've got an extra drill if you want it. Seems like it could be usefull with all the trouble you two get into...
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JC and KC, I've got an extra drill if you want it. Seems like it could be usefull with all the trouble you two get into...
BAM!
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Hold on there boys and girls. Not to sound heavy handed, but Clint and I established those routes. The tree from the photographs that JC provided doesn't look too bad to me and I don't remember it being an issue when we did the FA's. I will talk it over with Clint and see what he would like to do.
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Hold on there boys and girls. Not to sound heavy handed, but Clint and I established those routes. The tree from the photographs that JC provided doesn't look too bad to me and I don't remember it being an issue when we did the FA's. I will talk it over with Clint and see what he would like to do.
No worries Bruce. I would never modify any route without permission. I mainly just wanted to contribute to the rating consensus and offer some suggestions. I revamped the first picture a bit when I realized I had positioned the yellow arrow for the suggested anchor location too low. There is a much flatter spot just a little higher that would make a nice belay seat. I think a one bolt anchor with body position would be the easiest/best solution. That would keep folks away from the tree, the "problem" shrub and put the belayer inline with the routes - plus minimize effort and expense. I think Rob's concern with the tree is negated by having a follower(since he was rope soloing) and as long as folks are aware of the "walk off" - the impact will still be minimal even if nothing is changed. Thanks for the new routes!
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The tree does look bomber at the moment but there is noticable erosion around the base and those pines are sensitive to erosion around their root base so I do see it as a problem. If that routes gets any amount of traffic I think the erosion will cause the pine to fail.
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The tree does look bomber at the moment but there is noticable erosion around the base and those pines are sensitive to erosion around their root base so I do see it as a problem. If that routes gets any amount of traffic I think the erosion will cause the pine to fail.
Agreed. And in an age where most don't appreciate a "pinnacles downclimb" to get off of a climb. A standard anchor seems very appropriate. These will be popular options up there.
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If we do put in an anchor, my preference would be to put it way over to the east right near where the 5.0 approach tops out. That is actually a safer location for several reasons. First off, nobody would have to cross the vegetated area without a belay and secondly, trying to reverse the 5.0 approach when it is raining is a bit sketchy and the bolts could be use to rappel off if
necessary.
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If we do put in an anchor, my preference would be to put it way over to the east right near where the 5.0 approach tops out. That is actually a safer location for several reasons. First off, nobody would have to cross the vegetated area without a belay and secondly, trying to reverse the 5.0 approach when it is raining is a bit sketchy and the bolts could be use to rappel off if
necessary.
Yes, I didn't like stepping onto that slick grass on lead - that's why I continued up the rock to where it flattens out and then walked across. What would you think about one more route bolt between the proposed anchor and the "problem" shrub to serve as a directional and save that shrub when belaying from your "far east" anchor location? That would make the rope run across to the anchor about where it is in the pic and keep it from hanging or rubbing on the shrub or the tree.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eFQi_JpGD40415CIaXU7t0PT-Y42owxnHrVKxYDM5L-VzILbR7QRmM4lnvwLWgJgsZ2MdZlnLVNY5JktiT3r_Q952xB_qkewcQcRiXXaeg8Hz6EP658qSur8-7fYfoKuH1HhXSeO96O_C5JY-oLNON=w662-h495-no?authuser=0)
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If we do put in an anchor, my preference would be to put it way over to the east right near where the 5.0 approach tops out. That is actually a safer location for several reasons. First off, nobody would have to cross the vegetated area without a belay and secondly, trying to reverse the 5.0 approach when it is raining is a bit sketchy and the bolts could be use to rappel off if
necessary.
why cross the vegetated area at all? Dragging a cord across the shrub, especially if people start to lower off it, doesn't seem ideal at all.
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I would like to ammend my post to say fail more quickly. I think it is a matter of time until it fails so additional traffic will not cause it to fail it will just increase the speed of the process.
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why cross the vegetated area at all? Dragging a cord across the shrub, especially if people start to lower off it, doesn't seem ideal at all.
Munge - are you calling the tree the shrub or the shrub the shrub? (P.S. "bring me a shrubbery!") If anyone lowers off the shrub they will receive a Darwin award. I was just trying to point out that if a directional is not installed along with the far east anchor remedy, the leader will have to exit onto some pretty sketchy ground below the tree and the "problem shrub" to diagonal up and keep the rope from interfering with either - since the last bolt is currently well below both of them. That would also create a bad situation for erosion of that whole patch of loose, fragile soil/ground.
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why cross the vegetated area at all? Dragging a cord across the shrub, especially if people start to lower off it, doesn't seem ideal at all.
Munge,
it's a case of trying to solve two problems with one anchor. There are more climbs in this area such as the Third SIster East Face, Sister Spire and the West Face of the Fourth Sister. The north approach to all these climbs has a 5th class approach
which is a bit of a tricky down climb to reverse especially in bad weather. By placing the anchors where I was suggesting this would create a rappel descent for both the routes below and the route above. I wouldn't consider this as a 'lowering' anchor for the routes below. The rock is pretty low angle in the upper section of the 'lower' climbs and I don't think it would be a good idea to create a 'lowering' anchor for those two, new climbs.
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I hear what you're saying. I think the multiple aspects is what we're all trying to wade thru.
Btw, I'm not suggesting that it must be designed for lowering, rather it will inevitably be used by gumbies as a lowering anchor if a station goes in somewhere in that slabby section.
Personally I would have liked to see the line go up that steep arête above the slabby section. :)
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used by gumbies.
Personally I would have liked to see the line go up that steep arête above the slabby section. :)
Probably not much to worry about as the gumbies will likely never venture beyond the main face of First Sister.
You could always add that extension and call it Your Sister's Boyfriend!
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I modified the description of route: 0.5 "Flake Don't Break" to include further information I gained when I led it yesterday. Thanks Gavin for an excellent last day of Pinns season.
I'll add the two new Third Sisters routes to the list soon too (I soloed these routes yesterday). I saw Clint today and so mentioned the possibility of adding an anchor and also asked him about finalizing a name. I agree that the pine is doomed if it is used much more as an end point (if anything the erosion below it looks more worrisome in real life than in John's photos). I also agree that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?
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I added the two new routes on the Third Sister's north face. These are routes 235.1 and 235.2.
Bruce, if you see this, would you read over what I wrote and lemme know what edits I should make.
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I led it yesterday. Thanks Gavin for an excellent last day of Pinns season.
I saw Clint today. I also agree that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?
So you mud masters snuck down to the Pinns yesterday and didn't tell me? I'm hurt!
I like the fact that you plugged my anchor suggestion.
I have a topo for those routes if you want it.
I think the 6 should be Your Sister's Boyfriend since it is a bit stiffer :)
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Brad Young wrote:
" I also agree that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?"
I discussed this with Clint. If we put an anchor in, it should probably go up high, where the arete steepens and continues to the top of the Third Sister. If we put it down low, as in John's photo, it would make a pretty bad toprope and rappel if people decide to use it as such. We will go up there in the fall and scout things out.
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Brad Young wrote:
" I also agree that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?"
I discussed this with Clint. If we put an anchor in, it should probably go up high, where the arete steepens and continues to the top of the Third Sister. If we put it down low, as in John's photo, it would make a pretty bad toprope and rappel if people decide to use it as such. We will go up there in the fall and scout things out.
Sounds like a good idea for the anchor Bruce. This may be of some use during the interim. I'm inclined not to tell anyone about these routes until the anchor is in since they will undoubtedly use the tree even though body position could be used from the flat spot of rock about even with the tree (where I proposed an anchor). I wasn't thinking in terms of a problem with toproping or rapping from there since I wouldn't do that - already being familiar with the other ways down.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d-03U4gzX2yjLcfz-BIK2jaV9RC7tkSNtzyAUr__L983PnVDRB1o3r-bu_dqmqkb-C_UhGqL13YETdMKNJ8npWWABesnhw8ZMsygwtW1Obp2kQL2f6KX8mB3K7KOlcdeR9qztDZb1G3vtXfC48TEPO=w717-h523-no?authuser=0)
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I'm inclined not to tell anyone about these routes
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d-03U4gzX2yjLcfz-BIK2jaV9RC7tkSNtzyAUr__L983PnVDRB1o3r-bu_dqmqkb-C_UhGqL13YETdMKNJ8npWWABesnhw8ZMsygwtW1Obp2kQL2f6KX8mB3K7KOlcdeR9qztDZb1G3vtXfC48TEPO=w717-h523-no?authuser=0)
lol
I needed a good smile today. Thx for the irony!
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Brad,
on the topo, I would move the routes over to the right to the toe of the buttress as that's where the first route starts. Also, I would remove one of the bolts on route 235 as I removed one (rawl split shaft, no hanger) when I rebolted that route.
Bruce
ps - thanks for all the feedback on where to put the anchor for these two new routes. Clint and I will get up there and get 'er done this fall.
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Brad,
on the topo, I would move the routes over to the right to the toe of the buttress as that's where the first route starts. Also, I would remove one of the bolts on route 235 as I removed one (rawl split shaft, no hanger) when I rebolted that route.
Bruce
ps - thanks for all the feedback on where to put the anchor for these two new routes. Clint and I will get up there and get 'er done this fall.
Bruce - I did that topo just for fun/out of boredom - I can remove it if you like - I'm sure if Brad does one he'll start from scratch. As far as the location of the lines, I was going by their proximity to that first water streak. Maybe there is more space between the two lines. I did notice the missing bolt when I led 235 - the same day I led both of your routes.
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P.S. Brad is at the Leap until Friday :)
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not bad...
Looks like we have a new author for the 2027 edition.
Bruce - I did that topo just for fun/out of boredom - I can remove it if you like - I'm sure if Brad does one he'll start from scratch. As far as the location of the lines, I was going by their proximity to that first water streak. Maybe there is more space between the two lines. I did notice the missing bolt when I led 235 - the same day I led both of your routes.
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when is the new guide coming out?
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579.5 What I've Been Missing Out On 5.7
Just wanted to share this photo I took and added the path to yesterday. The view is from the summit of Papa Bear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cf949pGa901Qpea3RGVjBkFRvnjPfmif8ICkB3XX0L5uU9kbz1Aemgp1B8MK-o0oXrl8Hbr7C0nE7KEr1GOchRBMqSjDToszKTrjY_z97qVn0L-vOJzdMnFP4Lw-SqGM2z-qW5QfBoYctWwn5h5AuX=w795-h505-no?authuser=0)
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Anchors are in on the new routes on the shoulder of the third sister. My first choice for a location was out due to bad rock, but plan B turned out to be pretty darn good as well. Enjoy!
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Anchors are in on the new routes on the shoulder of the third sister. My first choice for a location was out due to bad rock, but plan B turned out to be pretty darn good as well. Enjoy!
thanks Bruce! we heard you were out there. I still have a bunch of onsights to do out there and we have some newbies that would enjoy leading the new routes - and now I feel like I can spread the word with the new anchor
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Bruce, I changed the route description in the first post on this thread. I was also reminded that the name Twisted Sister is a duplicate. Did you talk to Clint about that yet? I'll leave it as is (either permanently, or temporarily, as you wish).
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It's kind of funny, Clint and I have put up a lot of routes in the Pinns and Tuolumne and we never seem to get around to naming them until somebody asks us what they are called. I will ask Clint what he wants to call the other route.
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It's kind of funny, Clint and I have put up a lot of routes in the Pinns and Tuolumne and we never seem to get around to naming them until somebody asks us what they are called. I will ask Clint what he wants to call the other route.
I still vote for my previous suggestion - I think the 6 should be Your Sister's Boyfriend since it is a bit stiffer :)
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Just got an E-mail from Clint. He is proposing the name "Kid Sister."
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I added route 708.5 "S Curve" to the list today.
John, Kathy and Bob, is the description OK?
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I added route 708.5 "S Curve" to the list today.
John, Kathy and Bob, is the description OK?
I like it.
Did we want to mention the belay bolt on the shoulder?
Biggest gear we used in the crack was a #1 BD (1 1/2") unless you count the #3 used for the belay anchor before Bob finished his work.
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I like it.
Did we want to mention the belay bolt on the shoulder?
Biggest gear we used in the crack was a #1 BD (1 1/2") unless you count the #3 used for the belay anchor before Bob finished his work.
OK, I changed it a bit based on your suggestions. Thanks.
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OK, I changed it a bit based on your suggestions. Thanks.
Looks good :)
Time to get a bolt kit!
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Time to get a bolt kit!
I will loan you the Loveline drill if you need it.
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On Friday I spotted an unreported route near the condor gulch trail. It's on the most appealing slab to the left of the waterfall lookout railing. The bolts where put in by Justin Vitcov, but I did the FFA in 1996... Its been a while but I think it's a higher level 5.10. It's a little weird because you have to rap in from above to climb it, as it starts on a ledge 50 feet above the ground. A direct start is possible but it was abandoned after birds were found nesting in that region. There are no birds now. I'm going to say the route is called "Mud Wankers". The direct is an open project.
It goes up the most prominent slab in this image. It's taller than it looks. I think it has close to 15 bolts.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss119/adamclimbs/0108C51A-E0CC-45EC-BE73-EA13FD88F455_zpsgakbjrtn.jpg)
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1996!
I'm surprised no one has seen it?
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I thought that Sharma went up and stole the hangers, but when I passed by on Friday Morning I could see the bolts shining in the early light. Yup, It's been in plain view for years... awaiting a second ascent.
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Squiddo and I had been looking for a route below Condor...maybe that was it?
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From what I'm seeing in the photo, I think you're talking about route 452, Don Genaro Slab.
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That's the one, but its called "Mud Wankers" and when I did the route I didn't start from the ground.
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lol
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I added route number 824.1: Are You Inexperienced 5.7 to the list today.
It took some work (and great, great support by the site hosts, thank you), to post this one because the single post reached it's hard maximum number of characters. Mudworm created what I think is an elegant solution - simply continue posting in a subsequent post, which she created for me.
I hope it looks OK.
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I hope it looks OK.
It looks wonderful, Brad!
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I added two more routes to the list today.
579.1 High Plains Drifter, and
578.9 Feeling Lucky Punk.
Aaron and Jon will have to look over my descriptions to see if they agree with them.
Although we didn't think either route was star worthy, each was worth doing. High Plains Drifter is actually a nice compliment to the regular route on The Lump. We also admired the stance bolting on High Plains Drifter - Aaron in particular, nice job job on that first bolt (you put that one in if I got the details correct). It would have been easy to have drilled from the top of the flake, but moving past that little bit of spice to the stance you used makes the protection sooo much better once a climber is above that bolt.
Also of note, although Tricia has "led" class three and four routes at Pinnacles, she hadn't led anything that was fifth class - until today. She led Bynum Spire Regular Route (5.2), handling the significant runout to the first bolt calmly and smoothly.
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JC making the first few moves on High Peaks Drifter 5.8
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d3Y5OO8o6TiReWdGc7hw7XO1FKimU2IiXCQ5YdxZAkiagbVuKB_A1OCS6EOPMfp-jrjSeRl_WP5LsMnRnF4mao0_5gIS5njvIf_51RA1N2XX4y21If6fMs6I0Xu6toBgLyy8QrL9yrQ9QAT_neorl0=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cdjiD9Agr4K5PHuZKswyNpJVaA818BnOPyj-Lwg5DpvU1ZkkchuRrYWs2VKAC5j44hmXnlU1eer9jsS3OyZy2D4m5leIsnXXZ42bhGnnZpyMuuwa5e-QwkWrH2qM-0hB4wmxSi4fpiGS3T4ifXwxlg=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
and Tricia making some nice moves on Bynums :)
Her first 5th class lead ever!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c5yVawUK4WTPJSZbSwDIjBLXWzVSzmwD59UxSiTcal72-TNEuXvTilmRunqlOk2Xiq88ZCHDoPsJ2xHjtYTIQttQ6wtQdRO4HN67bhN_ir_1z8NN6y7vRdDYZ79-Wam3PGCvg5mtKxy3aMzvDTyvf7=w606-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d07MFsRWQ8d7M-Kbbv7HSIrrMR8uChjNuE3fkOtUxhdvimXTPHUCU2jzQR_3XkK6IeztEy-Pu9LWDOvStjZqNkgSaM3bg2RmyUizp_cbwZhiCf67wVOi-3XEiWuOlcLndmeXh9j2Gu91AurUjzKsp_=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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tricia is leading now?
i'm gone for a couple of days and...
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Great work, Tricia!
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Congrats Tricia
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Woohoo, good job T!!
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High Peaks Drifter has a really nice ring to it.
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Sami would think that Tricia's colorful sock wear is far more important to notice.
I say T is looking calm and collected in those photos, a sign of a good parenting.
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I added two more routes to the list today.
579.1 High Plains Drifter, and
578.9 Feeling Lucky Punk.
Aaron and Jon will have to look over my descriptions to see if they agree with them.
Although we didn't think either route was star worthy, each was worth doing. High Plains Drifter is actually a nice compliment to the regular route on The Lump. We also admired the stance bolting on High Plains Drifter - Aaron in particular, nice job job on that first bolt (you put that one in if I got the details correct). It would have been easy to have drilled from the top of the flake, but moving past that little bit of spice to the stance you used makes the protection sooo much better once a climber is above that bolt.
Also of note, although Tricia has "led" class three and four routes at Pinnacles, she hadn't led anything that was fifth class - until today. She led Bynum Spire Regular Route (5.2), handling the significant runout to the first bolt calmly and smoothly.
Brad,
I like the descriptions and am glad you enjoyed the routes. Jon actually place the first bolt, and I place the second. Half of the left foot stance fell off shortly after Jon got the bolt in place. Great fun and I am glad someone else climbed the routes!
Congratulations to Tricia for an excellent lead!
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Aaron,
Great work! I've got to get up there and try those before the closures kick in.
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JC and KC are the high peaks drifters. It is a good name.
And nice photos of Tricia and JC
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Totally think that should be the name!
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one more for high peaks drifters
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JC making the first few moves on High Peaks er... I mean High Plains Drifter
High Peaks Drifter has a really nice ring to it.
It is a good name.
Totally think that should be the name!
one more for high peaks drifters
Gavel strikes the sound block...Motion carried
signed the High Peaks Grifter
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JC and KC, on HPD it looks like a route could go right at the first bolt and up to the south side of the Lump. Whatcha doing Sunday?
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JC and KC, on HPD it looks like a route could go right at the first bolt and up to the south side of the Lump. Whatcha doing Sunday?
Hey Jon,
Thanks for the offer but I'll be working on The Inn Crowd with Brad.
KC can't go Sunday :(
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Gavel strikes the sound block...Motion carried
signed the High Peaks Grifter
ooh, that just might be better
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I added a description of route 911.6 The Inn Crowd to the list today.
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With the continuing help and support of our site hosts, I added links to the photo-topo to the route descriptions for Gold Line, Desperate Abandon and The Inn Crowd.
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I added the new route "711.7 The Brosseau Finish" to the list today (and I updated the numbers in the introductory paragraph).
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486.5 Forgettable Ewe 5.5 FA Bruce Hildenbrand, Clint Cummins, January 15, 2014. From the belay at the top of the first pitch of Lonely Sheepherder traverse 25' left out of the water streak. Diagonal up and left passing a bolt to reach the next water streak which is followed to the top. Belay at a unique pine tree which is growing horizontally! Walk off.
BTW, the climb to the left, "Embraceable You," I believe is supposed to be called "Embraceable Ewe". Brad, you might want to check this with Jack Holmgren.
487.5 Up a Crook Without a Paddle 5.8++ XX FA Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Quirk, Richard Hechtel, and a fourth person whose name has been lost over time. December 1977. Start by climbing the first two pitches of Piece of Ewe. 3/4 of the way up the second pitch of Piece of Ewe traverse straight left to the base of a large, right-facing corner. Belay on a large flat area with a short 3" crack which is about 30 feet lower and 30 feet left of the second belay of Piece of Ewe. Climb up the crack as it steepens confronting a bulge about 50' up(crux) continue up the crack/grove to the walkoff ledge for the third pitch of Piece of Ewe.
On the FA the belay below the crux pitch consisted of a tied off, fist-sized chockstone in the 3" crack. There was no protection available on the pitch. If the leader fell there was a very good possibility that the belay and belayers would have followed the leader into the abyss. With modern camming protection this pitch might actually be somewhat safe to lead, but that determination has yet to be made.
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...Brad, you might want to check this with Jack Holmgren.
Bruce,
Jack and I went over all of his routes and route names (in the course of more than 60 emails back and forth) before the 2007 book came out. As an example, look at route #551, which had a much simpler - and I think better - name in the last Rubine guide (David had made up the name "Prelude" for this route, and Jack wouldn't let it stay at that because it wasn't what they'd called it, even though I begged him to leave it at the simple name).
So I'm sure that the way it is spelled is correct.
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...Midway up the second pitch of Piece of Ewe traverse straight to the base of a large, right-facing corner.
Is it a right or a left traverse?
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Is it a right or a left traverse?
I looked at the topo and then considered the number you gave the route. It must be a leftward traverse.
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Wow! I knew that Richard Hechtel climbed a quite a bit at Pinnacles but was not aware that he was on any FA's. I am sure his daughter Sibylle would love to hear about this climb.
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I looked at the topo and then considered the number you gave the route. It must be a leftward traverse.
Yup! Traverse left.
Bruce
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Wow! I knew that Richard Hechtel climbed a quite a bit at Pinnacles but was not aware that he was on any FA's. I am sure his daughter Sibylle would love to hear about this climb.
Nelkins, it sounds like you've also been around Pinns climbing for a long time?
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No, not really that long. I've been climbing there more and more the last couple of years. In fact, Richard's daughter Sibylle was key in my new found interest in the Pinnacles. Last spring we spent about 4 or 5 consecutive weekends climbing there prior to Richard's wife Lisa's passing.
It was a touching experience climbing some of the climbs that Richard may have climbed with friends with Sibylle. We took quite a few photos of her standing on the same Pinnacles that her father had photos of himself standing on in his collection.
Besides the nostalgia factor we took all of the Pinnacles trips because it was the shortest drive from Redwood City with the most amount of routes. It kind of dawned on me that if you live in the Bay Area Pinnacles is your home crag and the place to go if you want to take a day trip.
The funny thing is I rarely see or meet other climbers there. Except last year I met some guy with an orange shirt in the High Peaks. I think I saw you and some other folks last spring walk past the reservoir on the way to put some 5.6 by the Hand. You might have a photo of me climbing Coyote Ugly. I was wearing native american printed fleece.
-Noal
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In an attempt at full disclosure, we all thought we were on Piece of Ewe when we did our route. Someone else led the second pitch(and traversed too low, missing the belay bolt on PoE) and setup the poor belay in the crack. I wasn't concerned about the poor belay because the route was only rated 5.7 and Chuck Richards' guide stressed the fact that a good bolt protected the crux.
So, when I got to the crux of the crack/groove and realized there was no pro, the belay was shite and I was committed it was a pretty heady moment. Obviously, I am here to tell the tale, but anyone attempting the route should be forewarned that failure at the crux could have very disastrous consequences for all in the climbing party. Maybe modern gear will allow for some sort of protection.
Those of you who put 2 and 2 together probably figured out that the reason this route when unreported for 35+ years is that I though we were on PoE. When we recently rebolted that route the off-route mistake became clear.
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That's a good story! Earlier today when I saw the rating it took a little while for the XX to click.
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Nelkins,
There is an old Pinns legend of "a guy with an orange shirt"
It has to do with hidden treasure, a bandit and a fortune teller.
When time allows I will post up what I have heard told.
Btw I have seen him too.
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Nelkins,
There is an old Pinns legend of "a guy with an orange shirt"
Shit, Jon, you omitted the crucial words. It's: "an old, feeble guy with an orange shirt..."
Yes, he's quite the legend. I think he's got a sidekick too, some guy who tries to wear an orange jacko'lantern shirt that's falling apart.
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I think there is more than one orange shirt old guy hiding in the rocks 'round these parts.
skeeery!
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I think there is more than one orange shirt old guy hiding in the rocks 'round these parts.
skeeery!
You know, you're right.
There's J.C., with his very bright and very intact orange shirts. And then there is me with the faded "jack'o'lantern" orange shirt that has wear marks and gaps in it.
Yep, I am the holy one ;)
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I added route number 486.5 Forgettable Ewe 5.5 to the list today.
Bruce, since your description of route number 487.5 isn't quite as clear (which is understandable since you did the FA almost 40 years ago), I'll hold off on adding that until I climb it (if that is OK with you).
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So it is true, there is a treasure buried in the Monument, I mean Park.
$10 has it under the Monolith.
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I added route number 486.5 Forgettable Ewe 5.5 to the list today.
Bruce, since your description of route number 487.5 isn't quite as clear (which is understandable since you did the FA almost 40 years ago), I'll hold off on adding that until I climb it (if that is OK with you).
Having just been there a couple of days ago, I am pretty sure about the actual route description. I just updated my original route description to be a bit more specific. What is not clear is a consensus grade for the route and whether modern climbing protection will reduce the seriousness of the route. I believe raptor closures go into effect next Tuesday.
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One more for Brad to hold him over the winter. I think we can keep this up for several years.
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...What is not clear is a consensus grade for the route and whether modern climbing protection will reduce the seriousness of the route.
I agree. That's why I'd like to hold off on adding this one to the list until after we've got more of a consensus (which, with the closures, will likely be some time after next August).
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One more for Brad to hold him over the winter. I think we can keep this up for several years.
Yep, Bruce's new and newly reported routes do kinda put a crimp on my big plan to have done every climb in the Park that is easier than 5.10.
However, if I can get the two remaining scary climbs done, and the little one Rob and Josh put up by the reservoir, then an early season effort (September or October) might get me there.
And one point I'd like to make: "keeping it up for years," that is, putting up new routes just so I'm not at that goal, is all fun and games, as long as people don't start putting up crap routes just to mess with me. I don't mind being messed with that way, but I'd hate to see crap routes put up just to "be routes;" climbing in the Park deserves better than that.
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nah, we will put up good route. It's just that we will not report them until after MLK. Just messing with you a bit Brad. I found it pretty funny that Bruce reported his route after the joking around in the other thread. The timing was perfect. Although I owe you one since you helped put up that 5.11 right after I had done all the 5.11 pitches in the Pins.
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Mr Mud, what about that route you and I put up back in 07?
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New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky. gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.
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nice! congrats guys! full pics layout?
Brad, question on Inn Crowd. What does this mean "this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope"? Which comes right after indicating the rap length?
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New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky. gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.
Don't forget the 2.5 Lowe Tricam behind the pillar. That is a key piece of gear that I highly recommend.
***Edit you need a #2 Lowe Tricam
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Great work, Clink and Aaron! Waldo wasn't where he wanted to be.
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Brad, question on Inn Crowd. What does this mean "this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope"? Which comes right after indicating the rap length?
That's the end of a sentence that starts with the words: "Note, while this route can be rappelled with one rope..."
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Brad, question on Inn Crowd. What does this mean "this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope"? Which comes right after indicating the rap length?
Maybe we should clearly state in a separate sentence that the route requires a 70m rope so some GUMBY doesn't rap off p1 on a 60 and go off the end of their rope the last 20 feet or get stuck and need to be rescued.
THE ROUTE REQUIRES A 70M ROPE.
The alternative if you don't have a 70m rope is to climb above the Inn Crowd anchor on to the ramp for Desperate Abandon and 4th class down the ramp(s) to the ground - DEFINITELY NOT for beginners.
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Maybe we should clearly state in a separate sentence that the route requires a 70m rope so some GUMBY doesn't rap off p1 on a 60 and go off the end of their rope the last 20 feet or get stuck and need to be rescued.
THE ROUTE REQUIRES A 70M ROPE.
The alternative if you don't have a 70m rope is to climb above the Inn Crowd anchor on to the ramp for Desperate Abandon and 4th class down the ramp(s) to the ground - DEFINITELY NOT for beginners.
No, I think the warning, with all the words together in one sentence is OK as is. Peter and Mikka read that sentence and they understood it perfectly well. So they brought two 60 meter ropes and were fine (and you are right of course: it can also be done with one 60 and a class four off, down the ramp).
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beer is in order. If I ever get down there I will stash one for you. If your up in the Bay Area we could meet at Saint John's or something.
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Looking forward to that beer, Mr Mud.
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If you up in the Bay Area we could meet at Saint John's or something.
Or...Felafel STOP has yummy felafels. ;)
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With Mudworm's help I added links to a topo for The Inn Crowd and The Brosseau Finish (it is hand-draw and not yet "cleaned").
The topo is likely overkill, since the photo-topo seems to have gotten people to the route easily enough. But I figured that I might as well post it since I drew it (I drew it while waiting for other people to drill bolts - might as well pass that time doing something useful).
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With Mudworm's help I added links to a topo for The Inn Crowd and The Brosseau Finish (it is hand-draw and not yet "cleaned").
The topo is likely overkill, since the photo-topo seems to have gotten people to the route easily enough. But I figured that I might as well post it since I drew it (I drew it while waiting for other people to drill bolts - might as well pass that time doing something useful).
I think the topo is a nice touch. Did you want to show the 3rd bolt at TIC p2 or the belay bolt on DA?
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New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky. gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.
Nice work and add to the list of "must do's"
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I think the topo is a nice touch. Did you want to show the 3rd bolt at TIC p2 or the belay bolt on DA?
BTW- that third bolt was truly a convenience:-) It also seemed solid so I assume you and/or Brad fixed it.
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BTW- that third bolt was truly a convenience:-) It also seemed solid so I assume you and/or Brad fixed it.
No we did nothing to "fix" the first-placed/lowest bolt at the second belay. It went in OK and tightened down well. Overall, after it was placed it felt fine. But I knew that the hole wasn't up to my standards as a belay bolt; I didn't like it. Maybe I was being too cautious, but I put in two bolts that I was definitely comfortable with instead.
And J.C., yes, I probably should add that Desperate Abandon belay bolt to the topo, it would fit. Originally I didn't put it there because it didn't seem to fit in it's proper place (a common problem in depicting a three dimensional area in a two dimensional drawing). But in looking at it again, I disagree with myself - it would likely fit. Putting a third bolt on the second pitch belay would make it crowded, but is doable too. If I ever finalize and clean up the topo (unlikely but possible) I will make those changes.
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I confess, to having to ask my wife what a felafel is, even my spell check doesn't recognize it. Sounds good.
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I confess, to having to ask my wife what a felafel is, even my spell check doesn't recognize it. Sounds good.
HA HA- falafel and kabob- shoreline at 101. Thank me later
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And who is spelling challenged??
New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky. gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.
Given Brad's reach, 5.9d sounds good.
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I find it just a bit amusing that the Dairy Queen went out of business but the Vegan Falafel place in the same parking lot has a constant line.
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I find it just a bit amusing that the Dairy Queen went out of business but the Vegan Falafel place in the same parking lot has a constant line.
Sorry I nodded off at Vegan ;D j/k that place is good but they need some spicy chili sauce
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And who is spelling challenged??
Factor, we love you. Really. But you should never, never, ever accuse anyone else of being spelling challenged. People would have to try (hard) to do what you do with words.
(I hope that is a satisfactory answer to your question?)
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And Jon and Aaron: between your new route and the two new routes on Goat Rock (all on cool north faces!!) I'm definitely planning on an earlier start to next season than "normal."
Not that this season is over mind you; lots to do yet, clear up into April.
Well with a little break from the Pinns here coming up first. I gotta leave at 5:30 a.m. tomorrow morning for my first 2014 week in Joshua Tree (14 years running I've had a week down there in January with Bill). It's not Pinnacles, but it'll have to do for the next 8 days :(
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Damn! I can't catch a break!
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HA HA- falafel and kabob- shoreline at 101. Thank me later
I tell you about my experience? Pretty much "meh"
Next time you go, you order for me, and drop it by my work or I'll come over. So many rave about it, but I don't see it.
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Let me know who's going to Goat Rock, never been there and want to see the new and existing routes. I'm a horabull spellar.
I doubt Brad goes to JT. Bet he has a couple homemade condor suits for closer area clandestine ascents.
Kabobs, now yer talking!
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Let me know who's going to Goat Rock, never been there and want to see the new and existing routes. I'm a horabull spellar.
I doubt Brad goes to JT. Bet he has a couple homemade condor suits for closer area clandestine ascents.
Kabobs, now yer talking!
I'll go with you as soon as it reopens - July 4th.
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I tell you about my experience? Pretty much "meh"
Next time you go, you order for me, and drop it by my work or I'll come over. So many rave about it, but I don't see it.
HA, I've literally eaten it 100 times. they deliver to my house weekly.
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JC. Its on. Goat rock day.
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That area around Goat rock is without a doubt the most ominous in the park.
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That area around Goat rock is without a doubt the most ominous in the park.
LOL, well its certainly no Tourist Trap or Disco Wall is it. I love that stuff, getting a wee bit off the track. Not too far and just right....
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Today 2/22/2014, Mucci and I did the FRA of a line on the North end of Discovery (climber's right of The Slot, etc around the corner). It's an obvious face. Every climber coming off of Disco has walked past it. It is 5.7 with a traverse left at the top that is unprotected but easier difficulty. I have seen someone with a rope on it, but I've not seen a full lead to the top of the formation before. The easiest line would go slight right of where I went, but...
Mr Mud indicated, as I was climbing the crux, "oh yeah, in the early 90s we used to boulder that."
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/12710767495_2bd40d6f40_c.jpg)
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1890's?
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Mr Mud indicated, as I was climbing the crux, "oh yeah, in the early 90s we used to boulder that."
Yes, I always solo up that to warm up whenever I am climbing at Discovery - maybe change the name to Old Hat.
Is the line on your topo on the right bait for poachers?
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Yes, I always solo up that to warm up whenever I am climbing at Disco - maybe change the name to Old Hat.
Is the line on your topo on the right bait for poachers?
He's right, we've walked below that for years. I've even thought about climbing that line, but I never did because, in my mind it was kinda out of bounds. Now, don't misunderstand - I think it's a legit route that is NOT in fact out of bounds, but subconsciencely it was out of bounds for years in my mind.
It was a no-go in my mind for years because the standard walk/scramble-off for Discovery Wall used to be just about where he drew the dotted line to the right of the 5.7 route (up until the mid-late 1980s). Then the NPS built the current (much better for wear and tear) trail straight back; they then tried to discourage using the old descent. For a while though it was a close call - would climbers use the new trail, or continue to descend as they "always" had, contributing thereby to trail and plant degradation?
I for one stopped using the old descent as soon as the new trail went in. Obviously, everyone else did too - eventually. And, not wanting to "encourage" use of the "wrong" descent, that area has been sort of outta bounds in my mind ever since.
And can we use the name "Old Hat?" It's perfect (even though we don't believe that J.C. has ever soloed it; we believe that D.E.S. has though).
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1890's?
Yup!
Like I said, if climbing w Mr Mud, no guide book is needed.
His head might need some jarring to get the beta out of it.
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The reason you cannot get beta out of my noggin is because there has been a bit to much jarring. If you had heard Mucci's delivery of that name you would really like it.
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The reason you cannot get beta out of my noggin is because there has been a bit to much jarring. If you had heard Mucci's delivery of that name you would really like it.
What was the Unix command to re-boot? Alt what?
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alt nothing. what platform?
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right wasn't it....\\\\ or ////
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right wasn't it....\\\\ or ////
Lol nice try FINANCE boy!!
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Lol nice try FINANCE boy!!
Damn geek twits. >:D
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Damn geek twits. >:D
Whoa! Fighting words! I'm not an engineer!
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Whoa! Fighting words! I'm not an engineer!
If the foo sh#its...
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If the foo sh#its...
I admit I had my wife decifer this.....
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I admit I had my wife decifer this.....
It's the punchline to one of two jokes I know that take and twist common sayings. You'll be fascinated to know that the other such joke ends: "...better Nate than lever."
Alright, time to watch a movie now.
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It's the punchline to one of two jokes I know that take and twist common sayings. You'll be fascinated to know that the other such joke ends: "...better Nate than lever."
Alright, time to watch a movie now.
Lol well I married smarter and prettier
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Foos sh*#it?
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Can I help if I haven't had the pleasure of logging into a Unix machine since '99?
My notes are on a floppy disc someplace in my room.
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What was the Unix command to re-boot? Alt what?
On a Sun Microsystems machine running Solaris it was 'Alt F1'
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on a traditional Sun keyboard it was stop a
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on a traditional Sun keyboard it was stop a
Actually, on a traditional sun keyboard it was 'L1 A'. 'F1 A' is for PC keyboards which didn't have
an 'L1"
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L1 is also the stop key. when I was new I could not find the L1 key. After having fun with it for a while my boss showed my the stop key ( on my workstation while I was working on it ).
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jeeze, talk about thread drift......
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I like carrots
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I like carrots
BANNED or, yes or DIE!!!!
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Sometimes I eat carrots after working on a new route.
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:o :o :o
resize that bloody image
(http://)
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Munge is a very bad, bad boy.
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Thanks Bruce for the help.
Mungie, is this a hint you are a bigwall climber?
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Yeahhhhhh
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jeeze, talk about thread drift......
Guilty as charged. I worked at Sun Microsystems for 10 years before retiring and wrote a lot of that low level code.
To get us back on track in this thread......
Thanks to JC for pointing out that you can get off of the top of Badman Mezzanine with two single rope raps. From the bolts and chains at the top of the first pitch of Bandits in Bondage rap slightly north(climber's left) down the True Grit variation to Alias Bandit Bench. With a 60m (and maybe even a 50m) you reach the ledge system at the top of the first pitch of Alias Bandit Bench and Lucky 13. Walk over to the first pitch anchors of those two climbs and do a single rope rap(60m for sure, probably OK for a 50m) to the ground.
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Guilty as charged. I worked at Sun Microsystems for 10 years before retiring and wrote a lot of that low level code.
And without you, Mr. Mud would not have had a job.
:o
My 2nd job had the ERP system in a Unix environment (1st was DOS!). It was odd getting into it and then doing some of the data loading and such.
Back to the new routes......
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I miss Sun on Sun, that was a solid solution. Still have some of that stuff in the data center. It just runs.
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Sunday Partly sunny, with a high near 65. South wind around 8 mph.
Just saying, you can have it again this weekend.
But ya'll need to stop plugging up the new routes thread.
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Sunday Partly sunny, with a high near 65. South wind around 8 mph.
Just saying, you can have it again this weekend.
But ya'll need to stop plugging up the new routes thread.
The admin needs to step in and delete all the superfluous nonsense!
and btw Munge - why are you talking about Sunday on here when there is already a separate thread for that!!
signed,
the thread Police (edited by Mod)
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I'm still gunning to be moderator. I got big dreams. And right here is where I start paying. In sweat.
bonus points if anyone can identify the reference
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Arnold in Terminator 7, when he comes back to claim and save the housekeepers son, it gets loose and ugly, then he becomes the Munginator? That the one?
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bingo!
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I'm still gunning to be moderator. I got big dreams. And right here is where I start paying. In sweat.
bonus points if anyone can identify the reference
Fame
and the loose and ugly combined with Arnold's housekeeper conjures a disturbing image - thanks clink!
Now PLEASE Mr. Muderator - delete all this nonsense including this reply!
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YESH!
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I'm still gunning to be moderator. I got big dreams. And right here is where I start paying. In sweat.
Me to!!!!!!
THat and Mr. Mud still owes me an El Cap route. And not the East Ledges.
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I have already climbed the East Ledges.
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I added two routes to the list (after leading both today with my Daughter Tricia as my belayer/second):
106.4 Taking the Wind Out of Your Mudsails 5.7 R
312.3 Skywalk 5.6 R
I also updated the number of new routes and the date in the introductory paragraph.
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I added three routes to the list today:
203.61 Where's Dave? 5.5;
203.62 Topsy Turvy A1; and
364.5 Perne in a Gyre 5.6
I also updated the introductory paragraphs accordingly.
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I added three routes to the list today:
203.61 Where's Dave? 5.5;
203.62 Topsy Turvy A1; and
364.5 Perne in a Gyre 5.6
I also updated the introductory paragraphs accordingly.
From the route description it sounds like you did not "climb" Topsy Turvy.
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From the route description it sounds like you did not "climb" Topsy Turvy.
I didn't climb Topsy Turvy. There wasn't enough time, I didn't have a smaller rope to start the "tossing" process with, and I didn't have ascenders or aiders (and didn't feel like doing it the harder way with slings and prusiks).
We'll climb it this weekend (if it hasn't toppled over yet - it looks so precarious).
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From the route description it sounds like you did not "climb" Topsy Turvy.
Hold up, Aid climbing is still "climbing" :-)
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Hold up, Aid climbing is still "climbing" :-)
nope
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Hold up, Aid climbing is still "climbing" :-)
Unless you're coming this weekend (and bring a boy when you do), you're not allowed to make "peanut gallery" type comments until next Pinns season.
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I climbed this weekend therefore I am no longer part of the gallery. And, I will be there this coming weekend.
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I climbed this weekend therefore I am no longer part of the gallery. And, I will be there this coming weekend.
Yes, of course you will. How else will we get our MoM mugs?
But my last comment was directed at Squiddo ;)
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so you all have to be nice to me for 5 days
:)
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I will climb this weekend. Maybe even James too.
I'll still preside in the peanut gallery.
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Today I edited route 203.62, Topsy Turvy to reflect our fun with it on April 19, 2014 (including Adam's weird, but free toprope ascent).
I also added route 89.1, Jury Duty to the list.
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Mug Shot 5.7 TR uphill from The Toe. Left Formation. Start off of platform in notch, move up and right on small ledges then move left toward buttress to finish. Avoid PO at start.
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Adam and I recently soloed The South Watchman during the MoM weekend.
Adam took a different route to the summit than the standard route.
South Watchman - Watch Those Jams 5.8
Start as for the South Watchman but when you get to the shoulder, move west and climb a short, rotten hand crack on the north face to the summit. Gear to two inches. FA solo Adam Long 4-19-14.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cGV-J1bF07s3lx9Xz-xYb0MUVijLX4JA9UxYvgTm4jTfSSq7YmKOrUZYCIo9mtxq03rQ_8BvZl-sCjpj4Ual25To3rNyRhcNBp7la67qx3M9CU5YjwACpw_p1twKrQ0NfY0CcZo4KMerftns2mmMzp=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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South Watchman - The Watchman's Rattle 5.8
If that's an FA shouldn't I get to name it?
"Watch Those Jams"
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If that's an FA shouldn't I get to name it?
"Watch Those Jams"
Dunn :)
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If that's an FA shouldn't I get to name it?
Not necessarily, I think the name should be "Adam's Pacifier" after hearing how you latched on to it.
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BTW quit putting up routes everyone. I got a cramp in my drill hand holding up this obscenely heavy Pinns guide to look up the Heretic and Condor gulch area. That or 3 separate volumes next guidebook.
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BTW quit putting up routes everyone. I got a cramp in my drill hand holding up this obscenely heavy Pinns guide to look up the Heretic and Condor gulch area. That or 3 separate volumes next guidebook.
Look who's talking... Are you going to be part of the problem or part of the solution?
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Look who's talking... Are you going to be part of the problem or part of the solution?
The problem.
The next guide will need to be in 3 separate parts.
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5.7 CHICKEN SH*T JUG HAUL
Climb the obvious line of chicken sh*t jugs just to the left of Kid Sister. You can TR it from the wonderful anchor above your/kid sister. Kristin (Kansas) will bolt it, someday, once she can lead 5.7.
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5.7 CHICKEN SH*T JUG HAUL
Climb the obvious line of chicken sh*t jugs just to the left of Kid Sister. You can TR it from the wonderful anchor above your/kid sister. Kristin (Kansas) will bolt it, someday, once she can lead 5.7.
Nope, but nice try. One could toprope four "lines" off those bolts. I, for one, can't go for it as a "route."
Remember, we invited you (cordially) to come over and work for it by pounding on a drill. On lead, working your ass off. Swearing artfully and enthusiastically (Kristen is pretty moth$%r f&#$iing impressive that way - I think she can actually swear with the best of us) . Then you get naming rights. The offer still stands too.
And Clink, on the same subject, Mud is calling a 5.7 toprope-only effort a route. Is it? (Invite here to rant and rave about whether topropes constitute "routes".)
Mud, I assume we can go out and make Mug Shot a real route?
Still, routes or not, both "Mug Shot," and "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" are good names. They've got to be used for "real" climbs.
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No
Never
Impossible
Unlikely
Who Are You Kidding
Follow The Money
The ancient Egyptians were asked the same question,
NO
NONO
NONONO
NONONONO
NONONONONO
NONONONONONO
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I think JC already has dibs on the drilling
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Nope, but nice try. One could toprope four "lines" off those bolts. I, for one, can't go for it as a "route."
Remember, we invited you (cordially) to come over and work for it by pounding on a drill. On lead, working your ass off. Swearing artfully and enthusiastically (Kristen is pretty moth$%r f&#$iing impressive that way - I think she can actually swear with the best of us) . Then you get naming rights. The offer still stands too.
And Clink, on the same subject, Mud is calling a 5.7 toprope-only effort a route. Is it? (Invite here to rant and rave about whether topropes constitute "routes".)
Mud, I assume we can go out and make Mug Shot a real route?
Still, routes or not, both "Mug Shot," and "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" are good names. They've got to be used for "real" climbs.
Hope this is all insider jokes.
Top ropes are real routes. Just because some author's don't like them doesn't mean they don't exist or haven't been done.
If top ropes were giving primacy most of the bolt issues we deal with today wouldn't carry water. We'll never go back to that. Steel is here. Steel is real.
carry on
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primacy
Top roping is practice, practice makes perfect, perfect is climbing the damn thing on lead.
In toproping the rope has to go from the top down. Huh?
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Top ropes are real routes.
Top ropes are not routes. If it doesn't have bolts and won't take gear then it is a free solo - and if it has been climbed that way ground up, onsight - then it's a route.
Throw a rope down from the top and it is "game over".
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all jest aside. TR's are routes. There are already quite a few in the guide. I have no problem going out and putting up a bunch of solo's and leaving them that way if that is the game people want to play.
TR's are actually much cleaner and in some ways a more pure form of climbing.
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Top ropes are not routes. If it doesn't have bolts and won't take gear then it is a free solo - and if it has been climbed that way ground up, onsight - then it's a route.
Throw a rope down from the top and it is "game over".
Although I agree with most of what you and Clink are saying, I think that you're being a little too extreme. There's a long history of some toprope-only routes being valid. Take, as just one example, the well known Big Moe in Joshua Tree. In Pinns, I think Lounge Lizard Arete is valid - bolting it would be a total squeeze job, and yet the moves are 90% unique from either of the routes to its sides (they only join at the top).
It's a balancing act though. I once had a first ascentionist up here hand me a topo that showed three bolted face leads, and something like seven other "toprope routes" from the same two top anchors. This on a face where one could climb almost anywhere. So where is the limit? Is it two TR routes on a face for every lead is enough? Or three. Or none?
Munge and I had this talk about Pinns and about up here. I think we came to agree that it can only be judged on a route by route basis. Naturally he didn't agree with all of my judgment calls and I didn't agree with all of his either.
In the present case I don't think the proposed "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" is adequately different, or far enough away from the lead climbs that already exist on that face to be a separate route. Mug Shot is a different story - it's all alone and it was validly climbed (although on toprope). For these reasons, I think it's a route.
I think the best/ultimate solution with Mug Shot though is for it to be made into a lead (and by Dennis's sense of style, probably by someone other than the one's who toproped it - the toproping was a rehearsal to him, and thus a taint if the same climbers were to now do the first lead). And it sounds like he's OK with that being done.
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I agree it is a judgement call. I do know of one area where a half dozen tr were listed for one anchor which is nuts. I have no problem with someone bolting mug shot. I cannot realistically drill at the moment.
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Hey hey toproping is real. I just did it last weekend!
It was grand. Not a worry in my mind. I was free to make wildly aggressive moves, without worrying about falling inbetween the first and second bolts.
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There's a long history of some toprope-only routes being valid.
TR's are routes.
So if I onsight TR's listed in the book without falling or weighting the rope can I count them?
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TR's are actually much cleaner and in some ways a more pure form of climbing.
Agreed. At pinnacles there are so many small formations that have existing one or two bolt routes on them. Is it really necessary to bolt additional routes on these formations when it is possible to just top rope them? Personally for me this is an eyesore and is self serving.
Also in some cases i can see throwing an anchor on top of something and checking it out before hand might not be such a bad idea to prevent half finished projects or not so hot routes.
Just my two cents.
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man this thread is going SOUTH. Real routes indeed and I need to only look at our local Castle Rock where I shake my head at the 4 bolt 30 foot TRs that were then "led". I enjoy climbing and one style does not fit all.....its all slippery slopes but we need to respect the FA. Aid to Free is one thing but runout to retro (without FA input) a whole other.
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So if I onsight TR's listed in the book without falling or weighting the rope can I count them?
Of course.
I don't prefer such routes, but if they only exist as TRs, then a clean ascent on toprope is a clean onsight.
Although I don't advocate this, I have been known to free solo some such routes (up to about 5.8, depending on the climb) and I count that as a "lead."
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man this thread is going SOUTH. Real routes indeed and I need to only look at our local Castle Rock where I shake my head at the 4 bolt 30 foot TRs that were then "led". I enjoy climbing and one style does not fit all.....its all slippery slopes but we need to respect the FA. Aid to Free is one thing but runout to retro (without FA input) a whole other.
I agree that reto-bolting is one of the two great heresies in climbing. And it's a huge threat to what "adventure" remains in the sport.
But in this present conversation, the only (ONLY) discussion of retro-bolting is of a route that was only just established two weeks ago as a TR. As one can see from my posts, I expected that there would be an invitation from the first ascent party to re-do this climb as a lead. I say this having known and climbed with Mr. Mud for 187 years (yes, and that's not a typo), and having already talked to him a bit about the climb on the day it was done; in other words, I suspected that Dennis would agree that leading through and bolting the route would be fine (maybe I should have been more explicit though about what I thought I already knew?).
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And to continue beating the crap out of an already dead horse:
To be clear, I would not retro-bolt any toprope route as a lead without contacting the first ascent party to get their consent (actually, I doubt that I'd even be interested in making any route like that - at least one that's existed for any length of time - a lead in the first place).
I actually had a discussion on that subject just last month with another poster here. We talked about the route Mousetrap and whether David Rubine would care or consent if someone wanted to bolt it on lead. My view was that he's easy to contact and should be asked before hand.
Now, I say let's find beanolar and lynch her for having started a longer and more serious conversation than I think she intended to.
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Retro? Lynching? I thought this was about rock climbing.
Kristin will never bolt it, it was a joke. She only cares about getting "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" into the next guide book. Wherever it is, let's make it a top route route, because we loves TOP ROPE #1 hehehehehe
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Norris and I have decided to erase Wrinkle Free on Flariron. I'll be damed if I am to share a FA with someone who dropped a rope off the top and climbed part of it by toprope. Maybe Bob and I did a second ascent of Angle Iron and should erase that as well. Rubine can put that in the history book and smoke it. I am still smiling and would top rope with anyone here, I don't agree with FA by toprope.
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Retro? Lynching? I thought this was about rock climbing...
Well, they both involve ropes don't they ;D
And Clink, why don't you tell us how you really feel?
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ha ha
we would also do a closely bolted 5.6
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At pinnacles there are so many small formations that have existing one or two bolt routes on them. Is it really necessary to bolt additional routes on these formations when it is possible to just top rope them? Personally for me this is an eyesore and is self serving.
The folks who say top-ropes aren't official climbs are just acting out for their egos. Anyone who won't accept a TR as a real climb is just trying to get their name in the book and pad their climb count. Those people feel their hard work at bolting a new route is devalued by the folks who claim TR FAs. There are so many frickin rules that others impose on us that it sickens me. It's so childish and silly. For me it's about the climbing and could care less about other climbers and what they think are THE RULES. In my mind the top-rope climber is more humble and prefers the rock to be left as is.
I'm not going to say any one practice is more valid then another, but I hate it when people insist it should be one way.
I'm not in favor of the amount of bolting going on at Pinnacles at the moment. The active 1st ascensionists this year have a voracious appetite for putting up new routes that they may be losing site of why routes should be bolted at all. Part of the problem with bolting these short routes is that it allows you to put up mediocre lines quickly. When the decision is made to bolt a longer line and put many days of effort into it the thought process is different. Look at it like photography, when people use film they craft their images very carefully because it takes time and resources to get an end product. Where with digital imaging you can take as many photos as you want with very little expense and less consideration. Hell you don't even need to know how to expose anymore. I feel like these short routes are the same as digital. If you can put up some 2-3 bolt thing and be done with it half a day, you might not think about it in a very holistic manner, where starting up a 4 pitch route you better have thought about what kind of craft you are creating and whether it is worth it. Personally I like to weigh the negative impacts of a new route against the benefits. How many people are really going to climb these new routes anyway? And how much veg loss will there be.
I would like to ask a few questions to those that feel leading is the only legit way to make routes.
1) Why do you feel the need to bolt new routes?
2) What do you get out of the experience of bolting new routes?
3) Who do you expect to do your routes.
4) Does the negative environmental impact justify your actions?
5) If you found an amazing line would you be able to restrain yourself from bolting it?
Personally I don't have a problem with TR climbing. Sometimes you just need to feel the movement of climbing without the restraints of fear. It can become more of a dance. But that said, there is nothing like the whole challenge of leading.
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Retro? Lynching? I thought this was about rock climbing.
Kristin will never bolt it, it was a joke. She only cares about getting "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" into the next guide book. Wherever it is, let's make it a top route route, because we loves TOP ROPE #1 hehehehehe
Dude - get on and stay on the SHARP END :)
Climb more with me and Kat - we'll get you squared away!
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I hear you Adam. I would like to create some longer moderates that don't scare the hell out of people - or expose you to a ground or serious fall - although that seems to be a Pinns tradition - so there is also an argument to be made there.
Right now I just want to wrap up a couple open projects and get back to onsighting existing routes - I still have hundreds to do. I also want to spend a good portion of my time rebolting. I'm at a place in my life where I want to give back - and I feel I can do that by getting rid of dangerous old hardware and creating some more good beginner routes (of which there are very few).
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to fan the flames...
isn't top rope recognition, in whatever format, really a question of what a climbing website should report? Or a guidebook author should report?
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we would also do a closely bolted 5.6
Do you mean create one or climb one?
If it is the latter - good luck at Pinns :)
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Without rules there is no game.
There are many games.
People who play scrabble have way bigger egos than foursquare players.
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Without rules there is no game.
There are many games.
People who play scrabble have way bigger egos than foursquare players.
DODGEBALL! Wait, sorry wrong topic. Its all different styles until John shows up in an Orange scarf or "man-pash"
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Without rules there is no game.
Climbing is no game to me - the sharp end is where I feel most alive - and rules are made to be broken :)
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In 1941 George Hopkins parachuted onto Devils Tower, without permission, as a publicity stunt resulting from a bet. He had intended to descend by a rope dropped with him, but this failed to land on the tower summit. Hopkins was stranded for six days, exposed to cold, rain and 50 mph winds before a mountain rescue team finally reached him and brought him down.[21][22] His entrapment and subsequent rescue was widely covered by the media of the time.[23]
Bet he was trying to set up a top rope.
BTW 1941 was the year my Dad was born.
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Climbing is no game to me - the sharp end is where I feel most alive - and rules are made to be broken
Those kinda rules, yea lets break some.
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Well if a route is a route, I want my Eastside upper parking lot bathroom outside traverse in the next guide.
My hands and feet tough real rocks. It has a start and a finish.
Now the great thing about TRing is you can scope out the clipping stances.
Then come back in 3months and add some bolts.
Then add a little pink circle to the bottom of the route.
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Then add a little pink circle to the bottom of the route.
What does this mean?
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Less talk more routes.
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well there's Red for the Red Point, but you guys are soft so Pink is a better color.
Maybe better would be name plates glued to the base.
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well there's Red for the Red Point, but you guys are soft so Pink is a better color.
Maybe better would be name plates glued to the base.
I could do the first ascent "in cowboy boots" of established routes, F4 could do "glass slipper"
pink points. Atomizer "fishnet"....freesolos
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I'm so confused. Are we following rules? or breaking them?
Is it normal to cross dress when you climb?
I mean, live and let live.
Just let me know if you find a good spot for us to set up CHICKENSHITJUGHAUL.
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This thread needs an enema.
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This thread needs an enema.
;D
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If top ropes were giving primacy most of the bolt issues we deal with today wouldn't carry water. We'll never go back to that. Steel is here. Steel is real.
Munge, please expound, I don't understand what you are saying.
If "leave no trace" is part of the reason to designate a FA to a TR ascent then documenting them and giving primacy to the TR could be the green thing to do. That was the idea behind stance only free ascents. It is very limiting to the proliferation of routes and demands an extreme price in time and effort to practice. On Romper Room, one bolt took a substantial part of two trips to place. If stance placements had ratings a 5.9 might require a 5.11 effort for placing a particular bolt.
Then there were the multitude of of steep, and "better quality" gymnastically challenging routes established ground up. Should these have been left top ropes? A very small number of Pinnacles climber thought so.
Instead of rap bolting these steep climbs, climbers employed an A3-A4 effort to place a protection bolt, by hanging on a hook on questionable rock. These practices and techniques cemented a fierce ground up ethic for these new climbs.
Nelkins makes a few good points, and to add another to his... Consider before spending 4 to 45 minutes TRing a line, is it worthy of leaving untouched, for a future muli-hour/day/week/month adventure?
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This thread needs an enema.
Agreed - We need a new "sticky" for Newly Established and Found Topropes.
I think I like this idea of toproping at Pinns.
I can leave most of my equipment at home.
I can leave my worries behind.
I'll no longer have that feeling driving down of - "Oh crap! I gotta get on the sharp end!!"
Thank you everyone for helping me see the light at the end of the toprope :)
I recently received literature from the AAC asking for donations to support programs that help gym climbers transition to the outside safely. If we just use topropes we can save all those funds, training and time.
And for those supporting the clean climbing/leave no trace/environmentally friendly ethic - please throw away your chalk or use Larry's colored chalk.
I feel so relaxed and relieved right now - peace be with you all...
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The Rules:
1. You're birthed
2. You DIE
In between is the filler...
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I like icecold filler
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isn't there a 30' rule? Perhaps it should be a 40 or 50 foot rule?
I like TR's and think they are legit. Sometimes I actually prefer them.
can we have a rule that all routes easier than 5.8 are TR's?
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isn't there a 30' rule? Perhaps it should be a 40 or 50 foot rule?
I like TR's and think they are legit. Sometimes I actually prefer them.
can we have a rule that all routes easier than 5.8 are TR's?
But, I thought those were solos?
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isn't there a 30' rule? Perhaps it should be a 40 or 50 foot rule?
I like TR's and think they are legit. Sometimes I actually prefer them.
can we have a rule that all routes easier than 5.8 are TR's?
The height rule was about what is reported.
Clink, I'll reply more later, but the idea was wrt to the community as a whole, and slightly hyperbolic. But TR only approach would yield less of an impact. But steel is here to stay, at least until the land managers find a legal way to crank down and 'manage' the climber user base.
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The Rules:
1. You're birthed
2. You DIE
In between is the filler...
You're harshin' on my mellow Jim :)
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But what about the local rule?
If you move to east of Yosemite, you route projects are fair game?
I vote for 30 ft and 3 bolts.
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I added to the list two routes that were recently established on North Watchman:
- 204.3 The Knight’s Watch 5.8
- 204.4 The White Walker 5.10a
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I added one route to the list today:
- 205.1 Watch Those Jams 5.8
I also added a star to route 203.61 Where's Dave?. I didn't think this route was star-worthy (it's too short and there's too much moss on the rock). But Waldo, Clink and J.C. all disagreed; they thought that it was cool enough climbing and a nice enough summit as to be worth an (oh-so-coveted :D :D ) star.
And, that's it for me (and likely too for any updates to this list) for this Pinnacles season. See most of you up here on granite until autumn!
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Watch Those Jams is a route? I thought solos didn't count...
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Watch Those Jams is a route? I thought solos didn't count...
Duuude - I reported it in your honor and even renamed it at your request!
I still think it looks like a big rattle from a distance :)
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Watch Those Jams is a route? I thought solos didn't count...
Don't tell that to Denny and Colliver (a good number of their roped routes were, essentially, solos ;) ).
I though your solo was as valid a way to the summit of South Watchman as is the route that is listed in the book.
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I still think it looks like a big rattle from a distance :)
Speaking of which I hope that when you did your climbs of South Watchman you both "topped out" (is an "ascent" valid if you don't?). Both times I was on top, I climbed up onto, and laid my torso over the top of that big, round, loose looking summit block. At least yesterday I had the advantage of a belay from Bob (in case it rolled off!).
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Speaking of which I hope that when you did your climbs of South Watchman you both "topped out" (is an "ascent" valid if you don't?). Both times I was on top, I climbed up onto, and laid my torso over the top of that big, round, loose looking summit block. At least yesterday I had the advantage of a belay from Bob (in case it rolled off!).
The book says the formation has 3 summits. I can say I was on 2 of the three and according to Meatloaf, two outta three ain't bad ;)
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The book says the formation has 3 summits. I can say I was on 2 of the three and according to Meatloaf, two outta three ain't bad ;)
Well I suggested to Bob yesterday that he summit by laying his torso over the top boulder too. Having much more dignity than I do, he reached up and patted the top. I can't recall his exact words, something like "I'm a patter." Perfect.
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something like "I'm a patter." Perfect.
Ok I admit I giggled here Brad
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and laid my torso over the top
You should say that only once, or probably use a different description next time.
Or, I might be wrong, it could catch on. "How was the climb" reply " Bitch'n, I really laid my torso over it!"
Waldo and Brad, that was a classic day, hope you guys don't get PO.
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Waldo and Brad, that was a classic day.
S.I.A.D.
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S.I.A.D.
Self Injury Awareness Day?
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No
PO
Patters are
Fatter
I'm a poet
And don't know it,
But my feet show it
Because -
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Still think it looks like a big rattle :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cGV-J1bF07s3lx9Xz-xYb0MUVijLX4JA9UxYvgTm4jTfSSq7YmKOrUZYCIo9mtxq03rQ_8BvZl-sCjpj4Ual25To3rNyRhcNBp7la67qx3M9CU5YjwACpw_p1twKrQ0NfY0CcZo4KMerftns2mmMzp=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Jeremy and i did a route last Jan? it is right of 579.5 What I’ve Been Missing Out On, which we were unaware of at the time.
Joaquin The Dog 5.9/10a 2 bolts, nuts and cams. 1 bolt on top of pinnacle. Seemed runout at the time and fragile small holds at crux above bolt 2.
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Jeremy and i did a route last Jan? it is right of 579.5 What I’ve Been Missing Out On, which we were unaware of at the time.
Joaquin The Dog 5.9/10a 2 bolts, nuts and cams. 1 bolt on top of pinnacle. Seemed runout at the time and fragile small holds at crux above bolt 2.
Nice pun for the name clink!
Call it rating-wise - none of this non-committal slashed stuff!
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Call it rating-wise - none of this non-committal slashed stuff!
Sorry JC, distributing weight evenly on the holds throws me off, and what with a third of the 9 SPH routes Brad showed me feeling way harder than the rating, I am doubting my rating ability.
5.10a then and you could break a hold and bust an ankle. There was a seam above the second bolt, but we didn't have any small stuff, and small stuff sticking there is wishful thinking.
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Clink-
Was the joaqin route the right slanting seam a bit right of the "missing out" route?
John, who lead the FA, originally started up that seam, got way up there where it kicks back, and then backed down.
He was cussing the whole time!
Looked like a cool line, with plenty of sussing out to be had.
How was the gear after the first 15+ feet?
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Mucci, JTD starts on the toe of the corner the south and east faces of the pinnacle, it climbs up past one bolt to a right slanting crack/seam. Then back to a bolt towards the corner, above the second bolt it rejoins the seam, which becomes thin face. Jeremy let out a burst of cuss words too, as he finished the crux. We joined your route at the notch and bouldered up to the top(Jere gave me a spot), although the right side may go.
Let know when you want to climb. I can think of 2 projects that are worthy.
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I added the following three routes to the list today, October 28, 2014:
12.5 The Long and the Short of It 5.9 *
564.61 Where’s Waldo 5.10a **
579.6 Joaquin the Dog 5.9 R
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And MUCCI, as you'll see from the description, Clink and I confirmed that what John Godar started up (and backed down cussing), was what is now the top half of Joaquin the Dog. As you'll also see from the description, John made a good choice to back down there. That part of Joaquin has a bolt and is still "R" rated (and loose).
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and is still "R" rated (and loose).
Dangerous and sh#tty rock and pro. It started out ok, but the seam that draws you in leaves you committed on deteriorating holds, with a corner to hit below.
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Photos from the FA of The long and the short of it.
Thanks for having me out there with you guys. Fun stuff.
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Great shots! enticing looking line!
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This looks like a fun climb. Cannot wait to try it!
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Nice photos, Kyle.
Yeah, it is a fun line. We brushed the hell out of it, but a good rainstorm or two should hopefully help to clear some of the dust and dirt nicely. I think it's a good addition to the routes in the Tourist Trap area.
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Today I added 564.2 Meanderthal 5.5 *
It's a fun and adventurous route. It takes a meandering line-of-least-resistance (and so that aspect of the name fits). But for the life of me I still haven't figured out if the other aspect of the name refers to J.C.'s forehead, or to Clink's eyebrow.
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Me and Him Tall?
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But for the life of me I still haven't figured out if the other aspect of the name refers to J.C.'s forehead, or to Clink's eyebrow.
I hope the Neanderthal politically correct crowd take no offense to the name.
The FA-tionists(Aaron included) understand that not all Neanderthals are the same. Stereotyping is not acceptable. Like saying all lawyers are snakes when there are at least 3,000 species of snakes.
We ARE sensitive and kind. Can't all you people, like, understand that!!!
Sorry I missed out on the fun.
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This morning I added: 487.8 Up a Crook Without a Paddle 5.9 R
I also took the unusual step of including a bit about this route's history, which is quite a bit more sketchy than most Pinnacles obscurities. I for one am glad Bruce pulled off that unprotected (and possibly unbelayed!) 1977 third pitch lead.
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I just realized where the long and the short of it is!
In 06' I got up to where Brad is standing ready to drill the bolt, just above the crack.
I was with Chuck Clance, and I was pretty sketched up there as it was new in my FA career.
Downclimbed it, and from there was trouble enough.
I remember thinking, as I was new to pinns, that that area was somehow off limits or something later on.
Always wanted to get back out there.
good work finishing it, looked good above the crack, but WAY too above my head at the time.
Looks like Fun, and with a good crew.
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There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction. Not sure if the Rubine guides ever mentioned the signage, etc.
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There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction.
I moved them to that lone rock on hwy 25, after years of using them to protect my projects.
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There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction.
Yeah, they're still there - just past where one accesses the ledge from which "The Long and The Short of It" starts (same ledge that allows access to the midway bolts on Thrill Hammer).
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There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction. Not sure if the Rubine guides ever mentioned the signage, etc.
It's been my experience that people don't read signs.
No mention in that other purple book.
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Today I added route: 400.1 Puny Legs 5.4
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Grey Cleft is left of anything? What are you guys smoking out there?
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Grey Cleft is left of anything? What are you guys smoking out there?
That is correct.
Go check it out.
clink, Kat and I also did a boulder problem that you might enjoy.
Here is the description.
Munchkin 5.9*
This 25 foot highball boulder problem starts on the right
- past the tree described in the approach to Grey Cleft.
Powerful boulder moves at the start lead to easier climbing above. There is no protection on this route.
Climbers shorter than 5’10” will probably rate the starting moves somewhere in the 10’s.
FA Jon Cochran, John Cook, Kathy Cook 11-15-14
Here is pic showing the start.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cslJ4bXHokOwDBpLYSxP7MI2-curEQ8qM87h0AZU3-frXGflAYmpVRdDfvYW8tb_8s0uieFWiP_sxzwXVXYX_wrQFDXOZmKDCe2-MadAL0cA6m1myPCwYoWftwwfIZKSwlrpVKNN5MXouJmmeKbe3I=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Grey Cleft is left of anything?
Left of the High Peaks from a certain vantagepoint.
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I'm not sure that this post is worth its own thread, but I've got to put it somewhere.
I spent Sunday and Monday at Pinns with my friend from Twain Harte, Roger Putnam. This was Roger's first visit ever to Pinns.
We got there late enough Sunday that we "only" got five hours of climbing in (I wrote "only" since Roger tends to climb like Clint and Mud - you've got to start and end at dark or it isn't a real day of climbing).
Sunday we did one route that was new to me. This route was among the worst 10% of routes I've ever done at Pinns (really bad rock quality and dirt everywhere). I led this and then invited Roger to skip it. He insisted that he wanted to at least follow it and then did so. He ended up just laughing at how bad it was. But this turned out to be a critical climb - it helped him set his gauge regarding how bad Pinns climbs can be.
Roger then led both pitches of Lava Falls (and actually Clink, J.C. and others who were at Smiling Simian thought he pretty much sprinted up them). He loved it. While I removed and patched a stray bolt stud on Lava Fall's first pitch, Roger joined the J.C./Clink crew at Smiling Simian. He did every route there on lead, toprope or free solo.
Among the fun we had, Roger was really most impressed with the quality of the climbing crew we'd hung with that day.
On Monday we got to the East Side at 7:00 a.m. We ran up to Pipsqueak where we repeated John's route Puny Legs and did the fun new boulder problem there that J.C. and Clink had reported.
Then it got impressive.
Roger had to leave by 2:00 to get back and teach a class. After Pipsqueak we went to Discovery (which we had all to ourselves). Roger proceeded to onsight all of the following routes, in order:
- Portent,
- Wet Kiss,
- Stupendous Man,
- Lithium,
- Melvin,
- Verdict,
- Broken Arrow.
We ended on The Long And The Short of It, which is new and which he enjoyed.
He liked Pinns. I liked introducing someone with his level of enthusiasm to the place.
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That is a good first weekend.
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No cantaloupe death? :)
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No cantaloupe death? :)
Actually he really wanted to get on the Monolith classics up to Feed the Beast. But when we went by there it was still pretty cold, so we went to Discovery.
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Sunday we did one route that was new to me. This route was among the worst 10% of routes I've ever done at Pinns (really bad rock quality and dirt everywhere). I led this and then invited Roger to skip it. He insisted that he wanted to at least follow it and then did so. He ended up just laughing at how bad it was. But this turned out to be a critical climb - it helped him set his gauge regarding how bad Pinns climbs can be.
/slowly it dawns on Munge that culpability is a slippery mossy choss pile back to the FA team.
could it be?
Oh, and RP3, did you get a lead on the Higgins route on Simian? I'm getting close to thinking about it.
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/slowly it dawns on Munge that culpability is a slippery mossy choss pile back to the FA team.
could it be?
Oh, and RP3, did you get a lead on the Higgins route on Simian? I'm getting close to thinking about it.
Yes, it is. But I left those specifics out of my post on purpose.
I don't think he looks at Mudn'Crud (one of his few serious character flaws), so I'll answer for him. He led it onsight too.
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Yowza! Nice lead onsight. You can't hardly see the bolts. I should have left the upper one as a leeper, just for him to have a challenge! :)
You may have climbed that "route" wrong. ;)
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Yowza! Nice lead onsight. You can't hardly see the bolts. I should have left the upper one as a leeper, just for him to have a challenge! :)
You may have climbed that "route" wrong. ;)
Binoculars.
"Wrong" in the sense that I didn't follow your exact "footsteps?"
Maybe, there's no telling where you guys went in the first 55 feet. But I'll bet I was within 10 feet of where you climbed for 90% of that part of the route. And I clipped 100% of the bolts on it as I climbed. I'd say I did the "route."
And yes, it may not yet be a route in the sense that you intend to go higher with it. So maybe I should call it a pitch/route (since the one pitch that is there does have an anchor)?
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wrong in the sense that it is a classic!
classics aren't loose or dirty, right? ;)
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wrong in the sense that it is a classic!
classics aren't loose or dirty, right? ;)
Oh, I get it now. Yes, total classic. Not many routes at Pinns get the coveted ATDS rating.
And to add to your sense of pride, Roger told me it was the worst route he'd ever done in his life. I heard him say that same thing to his fiancee when they talked by phone too.
That's a hell of a claim to fame.
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And to add to your sense of pride, Roger told me it was the worst route he'd ever done in his life.
dang funny.
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Oh, I get it now. Yes, total classic. Not many routes at Pinns get the coveted ATDS rating.
And to add to your sense of pride, Roger told me it was the worst route he'd ever done in his life. I heard him say that same thing to his fiancee when they talked by phone too.
That's a hell of a claim to fame.
There is a naming convention that Josh has started. Hopefully he'll come back and help finish this off so we can include him in it and name it properly as it progresses upwards.
awesome!
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as it progresses upwards.
ATDS6X ?
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All my routes are classics!
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All my routes are classics!
You are a classic. Your routes however? Not so much.
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You are a classic. Your routes however? Not so much.
That is two in a row.
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You are a classic
One day you will be an antique and over 50 like Brad.
Enjoy being a classic.
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Geez. Talk about a thread drift.
I blame Brad ;)
Where is the moderator when you need them?
Do we need to appoint a sticky Czar?
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I blame Brad ;)
Yeah, whatever. I've probably put all of us at risk. The whole internet and in particular this forum are in imminent danger of filling up to capacity.
Yikes.
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I blame Brad
Why not.
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whatever
meh is the current lingo :)
You started the sticky so I guess you can do whatever.
With your penchant for war games I'm surprised you're not in touch with your inner Nazi ;)
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With your penchant for war games
Male Power panel short camo boxer brief soldier shorts.
Merry Christmas war game attire for yours truly. Could wear also on Bandits In Bondage lead.
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350.5 Bandits in Bondage - second pitch 5.11, 6x to a 2x chained belay.
Good, hard moves. A #1.5 or #2 Friend is recommended in the pocket below the 3rd bolt.
FA - James McConachie, Dennis Erik Mr Mud, 3/30/02
The first 3 bolts were placed by McConachies in the late 80s
Has the second pitch ever seen other ascents?
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...meh is the current lingo :)
Whatever. And long (stupid) shorts are the current fad.
Clink, I don't know of any person other than Dennis and Jim who's done Bandit's second pitch.
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Ok, who is posting up the routes from this list on Mtn project? Just print this list out and you got it all.
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I do not have an account there. Seriously tell those folks if they want this info to come on over and take a look. At the very least put a link in to provide the source.
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All other sites are inferior and only barely tolerated. Ok, except for SPH.
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Noal has been and I have been too. I talked with him about his posts there (under a different name than he uses here) and what he said made sense.
He said that he's posted about some of the newer and/or more obscure Pinns routes on that site so that people that otherwise wouldn't hear of/know of such routes would have a chance to learn of them. Maybe spread the crowds a little further than Bear Gulch.
He makes good posts too - full information in actual English (as opposed to some of the crap there where you wonder if the posting party made it past third grade).
I've posted a few routes there myself so as to retain "control" over the information about that route, so to speak. On Los Banditos, as an example, I posted about it so that some dumb shit wouldn't do the post and f#$k it up. Notice that I've cleverly inserted links to this thread on this site in some of my posts (The Inn Crowd, for example) claiming that I couldn't figure out how to post photos and topos to that site (and actually the claim is true - I couldn't figure it out).
Maybe on all the routes we list there we should insert the words "for a full listing of new Pinnacles routes since the 2007 guidebook, see this thread on the Mudn'Crud Pinnacles site: [link]?" I'd be willing to go back and do that on my entries!
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Yes, I posted five of the routes from the above list on Mt. Project. On the pages for those five routes I went back today and added a link to the list in this thread. Brad pretty much covers my basic intention in his post above. Perhaps i can elaborate on the subject a bit more.
I have had many great days at the Pinnacles seeking out and climbing the routes in this thread. I greatly appreciate all of the hard work and attention to detail that Brad has spent on this supplement to his excellent guidebook and the work of the first ascentionists. I have climbed way more off the list than the five routes that I posted to Mt. Project but some of them I would not suggest to someone that I was trying to convert to climbing in areas other than Bear Gulch, the Flumes etc.
I also added a page for The Yaks. I could not find much of anything about the area on the internet. About a month after I posted a handful of routes and photos someone else posted two more routes. Appears that they visited Monolith, did one climb then they popped over the hill and climbed a couple of routes on the Yaks Wall. That day there were a few less people mobbing the Monolith.
I got more ideas about the subject but I do not want to make a mega-long unreadable post. Maybe if I meet some more folks on this site in the flesh we can chat some.
Noal
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Sounds good!
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Good strategy nelkins. "Park" status is only going to mean more climbers.
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... On the pages for those five routes I went back today and added a link to the list in this thread.
Thanks for the high compliment in the way you worded your added information.
I greatly appreciate all of the hard work and attention to detail that Brad has spent on this supplement to his excellent guidebook and the work of the first ascentionists.
Thanks again.
Here however I think it's fair to say that lots of us have put lots of work into this list. Both of the Muds, for example, have fielded my confused Luddite like requests for help with the site. John, Jon, Bob, Rob, Aaron, Gavin and many other have kept careful notes and gotten them to me (and checked/edited entries too).
...but some of them I would not suggest to someone that I was trying to convert to climbing in areas other than Bear Gulch, the Flumes etc.
:D :D
I also added a page for The Yaks. I could not find much of anything about the area on the internet. About a month after I posted a handful of routes and photos someone else posted two more routes. Appears that they visited Monolith, did one climb then they popped over the hill and climbed a couple of routes on the Yaks Wall. That day there were a few less people mobbing the Monolith.
Agree with Dennis and Clink on this - it's nice to see areas as fine as The Yaks getting a little traffic.
I got more ideas about the subject but I do not want to make a mega-long unreadable post. Maybe if I meet some more folks on this site in the flesh we can chat some.
This weekend.
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Maybe if I meet some more folks on this site in the flesh
Please no flesh out of luck scenes this weekend.
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On December 30, 2014, I added the following three routes to this list:
- 203.7 Mug Shot 5.7 *
- 646.2 Tear and Share 5.10a R
- 672.7 Agent Orange 5.4
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Ironic that Agent Orange and Tear and Share ended up lumped together on the main list.
Descriptions look good - thanks!
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Move straight up past two bolts, then up and right past two more bolts, before moving up and left past two more
I would say "Move up then left to the second bolt, then up and right..."
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I would say "Move up then left to the second bolt, then up and right..."
Agreed - I missed that.
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I added these four routes on The Fins to the list today:
- 557.1 Two Fifty Too Quick 5.6
- 557.2 Nine Hundred for the Lead 5.6 *
- 557.6 Finagle 5.6 *
- 557.8 The Fourth Fin - Regular Route 5.1
Although this area (and these routes) haven't been made public before, virtually everyone who would do a first ascent at Pinns was there Saturday, so they aren't exactly off the radar anymore. And I don't now feel that making this information public poses any great risk of route poaching. If anyone can convince me that I am wrong in my impression I will remove these routes and put them back on the "private" list.
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I added the five new routes at The Upper Flumes to the list tonight. They all start with the number 698.
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Imapoacher4lyfe.com
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Imapoacher4lyfe.com
Maybe a weirdo for life. What the hell are you talking about?
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You're too old to understand.;)
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Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.
195.5 - Tiburcio's Y 5.6 - climb the northeast arete of the Tiburcio's formation past three bolts starting 50 feet off of the Rim Trail about 100 feet north of the top of Vigilante.
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Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.
195.5 - Tiburcio's Y 5.6 - climb the northeast arete of the Tiburcio's formation past three bolts starting 50 feet off of the Rim Trail about 100 feet north of the top of Vigilante.
You had no right - never, never stop re-bolting like that again.
(Which day did you two do the route?)
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more importantly, how is the quality? ;)
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You had no right - never, never stop re-bolting like that again.
(Which day did you two do the route?)
February 10th, 2015 - quality is 0.5 stars. Good rock, but not sustained in difficulty.
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Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.
195.5 - Tiburcio's Y 5.6 - climb the northeast arete of the Tiburcio's formation past three bolts starting 50 feet off of the Rim Trail about 100 feet north of the top of Vigilante.
You had no right - never, never stop re-bolting like that again.
more importantly, how is the quality? ;)
Oh Geezus - I'm goin' back in my hidey hole!
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Oh Geezus - I'm goin' back in my hidey hole!
Nah, stay out. We gonna get your lily white ass out on some granite too. Real soon.
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Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.
Cool, will have to check it out.
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Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.
195.5 - Tiburcio's Y 5.6 - climb the northeast arete of the Tiburcio's formation past three bolts starting 50 feet off of the Rim Trail about 100 feet north of the top of Vigilante.
I believe we got the coveted 2nd ascent of the route today. It's fun and well protected with a long and easy runout to the top. There is a nice knob that acts as a directional for the follower.
Thanks guys!
P.S. Ride the new wave :)
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Today I added to the list:
381.1 Welcome Respite 5.4
Here's the whole description:
This fairly long but easy route starts 25 feet right of Catatonic Stupor. Climb a lower-angle ramp on good rock to a headwall 30 feet up. Pass the headwall and then continue on more low angle rock to finish at the top of the chimney between the second and third knuckles. Belay there using body position. Descend by moving down the same chimney to the west (toward the opposite side from where the route comes up). Although the first ascent of this route was made free solo, the first ascent author recommended that any future climbers place a bolt or two for protection. FA Party: Gavin Emmons. FA Date: February 15, 2015. Source(s): Self, watched Emmons make the first ascent.
Also, I'm waiting to add Bruce and Clint's new route until I've climbed it and can give a better description.
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Also, I'm waiting to add Bruce and Clint's new route until I've climbed it and can give a better description.
Try not to be too underwhelmed:-)
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I never thought about calling this a route but I just came across my markings in my guide book and remember this climbing really really well. On 4/20/2012 I climbed a link up of Castles Made of Sand (206) and Sound Chaser (207) that start by clipping the first bolt on 206 and the climbing up the obvious ramp thingy until you can clip the fifth bolt on 207. I placed some so-so nuts for protection but they all fell out. The only piece that stayed in was a .75 BD with two lobes engaged. It climbed like an easy 5.10 but the lack of protection spices it up and it's likely 5.10 R. Or maybe X. I recall little lose rock. Climbed ground up on lead w/ Trevor James. A bolt might be nice.
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300.5 - Extra Point 5.9 (TR), South Goal Post - Bruce Hildenbrand 3/3/14 - Climb the steep, somewhat loose north east face just to the climber's left of the regular(4th class) route. Join that route at it's crux to top out.
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I just added this new Knuckle Ridge route to the list:
381.4 Witch’s Broomstick 5.8
And then edited the nearby route Welcome Respite to reflect the experience of the second ascent party.
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And, also today, I added the routes at The Northeast Frontier to the list.
I should note here too that, of the dozen routes that exist at this area, two have had only two ascents but all of the others have been led between six and a dozen times each (plus follows/topropes). The ratings and stars at this area are all based on very strong consensus.
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JC heading to the next stance on Soapbox Slab.
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thanks clink - pictures are so deceiving!
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And, also today, I added the routes at The Northeast Frontier to the list.
Anybody got a photo of someone climbing Pit Vipor? It looks really cool, esp. when a climber is being half swallowed by the vipor. I remember being impressed with the sight, but I didn't bother go fetch my phone/camera and now I regret it. It is a fun climb indeed and I personally appreciate that the FAs made an effort to make it safe for future ascents even though the initial route had fewer bolts when established.
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thanks clink - pictures are so deceiving!
Your welcome.
Yes, the rock looks solider and your head looks almost normal due to foreshortening.
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JC heading to the next stance on Soapbox Slab.
that looks really familiar. ;)
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...and your head looks almost normal due to foreshortening.
Dude's on a roll. Remind me not to get on his bad side.
Brian took some photos of Dawson leading it (but from back a ways). I'll see if I can get him to post up (and thereby get him to join this forum!).
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Only in the new century.
I called Brian. He picked up the phone and said: "Hi, I'll call you back in two minutes, I'm belaying Whitney."
If he'd said that to me 25 years ago I'd have thought he was in an insane asylum.
Anyway, I think I've got him talked into joining and posting the photos he took.
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I sent some pics to mudworm so she could post them.
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that looks really familiar. Wink
That chute(s) to the right looks cool.
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I sent some pics to mudworm so she could post them.
Thanks JC for the photos. I had no idea you took photos when I was on the route. It's a toss up which thread to post the photos in, so I posted a couple in the other one.
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On the formation right of Flue Fire. Project? Chimney sweep and Flue Fire are both on the same formation, a dirt and brush gully separates them from this pinnacle to the right.
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301.5 WIzard's Wall 5.9+/5.10a* - Wizard Pinnacle - Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand 3/17/15
Clint and I took an afternoon off when we were rebolting in the Hanging Valley/Kasparek's Ridge and put up this route. The description for Sorcerer of Slab mentions a 'narrow chasm'. This route is located on the left-hand wall as you exit that chasm. The climb has 5-bolts. The climbing past the first three is about 5.8. At the third bolt, mantel into a large hole and make a balancy clip of the 4th bolt. The fifth bolt is hard to clip, especially for short people, but the 4th bolt is right at your waist. The crux is past the last two bolts where the steepness and the pump factor combine to provide the difficulties. Rappel from the anchors. The rock quality is pretty good.
The climb is only 40 feet long which was good since our rope got into some poison oak at the base of Sorcerer of Slab(one of the dangers of rapping in from the top) and we only had about 80 feet of unaffected rope. Also of note was that the ticks were out in full force that day. While I was belaying Clint as he put in a bolt I counted six ticks on me at one time. Poison oak and ticks! Does it get any better at the Pinnacles?
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lol
ticks, not me mang!
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Poison oak and ticks! Does it get any better at the Pinnacles?
Only if it's JC's rope >:D
The rock quality is pretty good.
An anomaly, will have to do it.
WIzard's Wall 5.9+/5.10a*
Still climbing like 35 yr olds? Nice.
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I added four routes to the list today:
- 195.5 Tiburcio’s Y 5.6 R
- 299.9 Extra Point 5.9 (TR)
- 301.1 The Chamber of Secrets 5.5
- 301.2 Wizard’s Wall 5.10a **
Note too that on Wizard's Wall, Cummins and Hildenbrand thought the route was worth one "star." The route received about six leads on the Sunday of the Masters of Mud weekend and both the rating and the two stars are derived from a strong consensus.
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I added these routes to the list today:
- On The Love Handles formation:
219.8 Muffin Top 5.9 *
- On Byzantium/Deep Groove Wall:
388.31 Tuff Chix 5.7
388.34 Out to Lunch 5.9
388.35 No Room for Squares 5.8 *
I also adjusted/changed the numbers of these routes which are also on Byzantium:
388.7 Perne in a Gyre 5.6
388.9 No Country For Old Men 5.7 R
Finally I updated the total number of routes at Pinns to show 1,020 routes publicly known to exist as of today, November 17, 2015 (there's only one route on the "private" list now, and it should probably be on this list; first ascentionist of that route, what do you say?).
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I added these routes to the list today:
- On The Love Handles formation:
219.8 Muffin Top 5.9 *
- On Byzantium/Deep Groove Wall:
388.31 Tuff Chix 5.7
388.34 Out to Lunch 5.9
388.35 No Room for Squares 5.8 *
I also adjusted/changed the numbers of these routes which are also on Byzantium:
388.7 Perne in a Gyre 5.6
388.9 No Country For Old Men 5.7 R
Finally I updated the total number of routes at Pinns to show 1,020 routes publicly known to exist as of today, November 17, 2015 (there's only one route on the "private" list now, and it should probably be on this list; first ascentionist of that route, what do you say?).
Very nice, need to go back no baby backpack
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Awesome! Thanks for the updates. I was planning on poking around that rock within the next week anyways; it'll be nice to know what I'm looking at.
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Awesome! Thanks for the updates. I was planning on poking around that rock within the next week anyways; it'll be nice to know what I'm looking at.
You will have to let me know what you think of Tuff Chix! ;D
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You will have to let me know what you think of Tuff Chix! ;D
I like three of them very much and love the other one more than life itself.
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You will have to let me know what you think of Tuff Chix! ;D
For sure! I actually ended up running up there today with the little guy to scout the approach in anticipation of getting some of the tuff chix in my life out there. Since it was just the two of us we only made it up the 2nd class chute on the other side of Byzantium, but I'll be back with reinforcements next time. 8)
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New Route.
Humping Lizards. 5.7 or so. Currently 3 bolts and 3 camalots (#3, #1, .75). If anyone does this and thinks it needs additional bolts I think it is fine to add them. The route goes up a 200 foot arête behind Beak Peak right off the trail that goes between what I think is Beak Peak and Scout Peak. My description is weak and so am I.
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New Route.
Humping Lizards. 5.7 or so. Currently 3 bolts and 2 red camalots and one green. If anyone does this and thinks it needs additional bolts I think it is fine to add them. The route goes up a 200 foot arête behind Beak Peak.
I am headed up there with Tuff Chik this coming Saturday to finish Katwalk and do your route.
I'll make some notes and take a few more pics too.
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I'll make some notes and take a few more pics too.
Thanks, I will appreciate the improved write up.
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Thanks, I will appreciate the improved write up.
Sorry we didn't get to it today. I was happy that we finished Katwalk though and happy that it turned out to be better than expected. You guys will have to climb it and tell me what you think.
We will definitely get on Lizards in a couple weeks - weather permitting.
Did you top out the new Pinnacle or is it still taunting you?
We figured you guys didn't last too much longer - Noal's bolt was the last?
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It is still taunting us. I failed to get in the next bolt and we hiked out in the dark. Good times.
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Route #264.5 - 5.6 X - Clint's Escape - FA 1996, Clint Cummins, Lynn Murphy This route climbs the water streak directly across the Yaks Corridor from the chimney on the South Yak West Face route and can be used to climb out of the Yaks Corridor back to the Beast of Burden Rappel. Climb up onto a big chockstone to the 40' water streak. Make a 5.6 move to gain a big hold. Higher up as the streak steepens there is another 5.6 move as you stem/chimney on small holds. Clint wants to go back and put in some bolts to make this protectable. In it's current state a fall anywhere on this route would lead to serious injury or worse.
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Route #264.5 - 5.6 X - Clint's Escape - FA 1996, Clint Cummins, Lynn Murphy This route climbs the water streak directly across the Yaks Corridor from the chimney on the South Yak West Face route and can be used to climb out of the Yaks Corridor back to the Beast of Burden Rappel. Climb up onto a big chockstone to the 40' water streak. Make a 5.6 move to gain a big hold. Higher up as the streak steepens there is another 5.6 move as you stem/chimney on small holds. Clint wants to go back and put in some bolts to make this protectable. In it's current state a fall anywhere on this route would lead to serious injury or worse.
Nice description. I say leave it as is, on the menu for variety, unless our dear mutual friend hasn't climbed it (and therefore has to due to his...) it might be reasonable to tame it to a R.
As to the individual who may consider climbing it in it's current state, all I can point out is that I on the other hand had good schooling and a decent upbringing, and know better than to repeat someone's obvious mistake. ;D
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I added two routes to the list today and updated the total number of routes:
- 240.9 One for the Bambinos 5.2
- 468.4 Katwalk 5.6
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Nice description. I say leave it as is, on the menu for variety, unless our dear mutual friend hasn't climbed it (and therefore has to due to his...) it might be reasonable to tame it to a R.
As to the individual who may consider climbing it in it's current state, all I can point out is that I on the other hand had good schooling and a decent upbringing, and know better than to repeat someone's obvious mistake. ;D
Clink,
I don't think this route was a 'mistake' on Clint's part. He's led it twice with no pro. I think he wants to go back up and add bolts so there is a non-5.10 option for climbing out of the corridor. The route should remain 'X'. You could take a 70' ground fall from the upper section which might or might not be survivable.
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Sounds like two bolts is all it needs.
I for one don't think Pinns needs any more R or X routes.
I strive to create routes that people will actually want to do.
I'm just grateful there is so much undiscovered fun left to be had :)
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I added two routes to the list today and updated the total number of routes:
- 240.9 One for the Bambinos 5.2
- 468.4 Katwalk 5.6
Here's a photo topo for Katwalk.
There is much foreshortening and the route looks easier than it climbs.
I was quite pleased with the way it turned out (star-worthy imo). It is a nice length with some varied movement.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50267870878_1b46df6fa0_z.jpg)
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It does climb harder than it looks. And the upper half of the route has some really good knobs. All in all a nice effort.
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It does climb harder than it looks. And the upper half of the route has some really good knobs. All in all a nice effort.
Knob Knob
Who's there?
Really good
Really good who?
...
Really good who?
...
Really good who?
...
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Personally, I think I'm much, much smarter and better looking. Taller too. Stronger. And modest; really, really modest.
Yes...but I crack myself up. Evidently no one else gets it...
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Took me a minute. Got a chuckle once the ice in my brain melted.
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I don't encourage that kind of behavior. ;)
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Yes...but I crack myself up. Evidently no one else gets it...
Which is why you are the Master's of Mud cultural attaché.
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Yes...but I crack myself up. Evidently no one else gets it...
I suppose the multiple personality thing can get complicated. On the other hand they may have some good ideas in a life or death situation. :)
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Today I added this new route to the list:
253.1 Maid in the Shade 5.4
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I added a route to the list today (and updated the total route numbers):
722.5 Full Circle 5.10b*
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I added two more routes to the list today (and updated the total number of routes):
- 388.21 Dunce Cap - Southwest Arete Fourth Class
- 388.26 Class Clown 5.7 *
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I documented two more newly established routes today:
- 468.1 Shades of Jade 5.8 **
- 468.3 Humping Lizards 5.7 R
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If anyone is interested Shades of Jade has some of the best rock you can climb on and the summit setting is top notch. Climb it in the evening and you will not be disappointed. The one downside is it can be a bit cold and windy around there since it does not get a lot of sun. I think rapping in is recommended in order to save a bit of wear and tear on the slope that leads down to the base of the climb.
Summit Photo
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2015/12/21/20151221195110-afecd308-me.jpg)
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End of the Day
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/i.php?/upload/2016/01/03/20160103141004-6f4bdd01-me.jpg)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/01/03/20160103141042-da88f087-me.jpg)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/01/03/20160103141742-1acdad35-me.jpg)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/01/03/20160103141729-f324219b-me.jpg)
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Three New Routes
The Pinnacle - clinkR - 10c R
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/01/03/20160103144243-f50bba7e-me.png)
Humping Lizards - 5.7
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/01/03/20160103142716-4e53b1f9-me.png)
Shades of Jade - 5.8
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/upload/2016/01/03/20160103143322-e325d3fb.png)
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Iron count??
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Three New Routes
The Pinnacle - clinkR - 10c R
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/01/03/20160103144243-f50bba7e-me.png)
NICE- I recognize that formation
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wow! those tree photos look great. Pretty true to life.
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Nice job on the overlay. Color coding meaning? Looking forward to Shades of Jade, great name and two stars to boot.
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The colors have no meaning. Red is the default so that is what I used. I selected green for Shades of Jade because of the color match.
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The colors have no meaning. Red is the default so that is what I used. I selected green for Shades of Jade because of the color match.
I'm not so sure. Red may have been a subliminal thing meaning stop and think seriously about it.
Green is the clear go ahead :)
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stop and think seriously about it.
or just listen to MJ's advice
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The two of you might be on to something.
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The two of you might be on to something.
"Up to something" is much more likely.
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Or maybe just on something.
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The new route activity doesn't seem to be slowing much (and people are still having fun!). I added another route today that was established yesterday:
287.4 Cracklin' Rosie 5.9
And here's the full description on this thread for the time-challenged:
287.4 Cracklin' Rosie 5.9 This route is on a previously unclimbed formation called Kat Pinnacle. Kat Pinnacle is 250 feet west of Kaparek's Pinnacle, and 250 feet north (uphill) of Pinky Pinnacle. It is a fairly large, independent pinnacle with a north-to-south split through the summit (a noticeable manzanita grows in the split). Approach Cracklin' Rosie from the north (uphill) side of the pinnacle, along a ledge that extends along the formation's east side, almost to it's south face. Climb a 15 foot face that leads into a low-angle water chute. Two closely spaced bolts protect the steep section of this route; a single belay bolt was also placed on the rock above the start ledge (the ledge is 50 feet off the ground at that point). There is a two bolt belay at the top of the water chute. FA Party: Brad Young, John Cook, Noal Elkins. FA Date: January 3, 2016. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
And yes, I named the pinnacle itself, and I did it in honor of Kathy Cook ("Kat"); she deserves the honor since she's a hell of a Mistress of Mud.
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Woot
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Woot
Oh God. A person like you (super cool, great climber, fantastic friend, maker and lover of Pinnacles climbing history) probably shouldn't be using that phrase after that dip-wad in Yosemite has so totally, utterly poisoned it.
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It's a retro phrase Brad. ???
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It's a retro phrase Brad. ???
I understand and I agree. But that's that parasite's absolute "signature" word. And even thinking of him in the same world as Mud makes me barf a little.
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I think I am missing something
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I think I am missing something
Sorry, I shouldn't have posted that.
It's just that "woot" has become the phrase that that guy in Yosemite has become very well known for (they call him "Woot Boy"). Perhaps you haven't read those threads on Supertopo. He's the guy who adds bolts to already established routes. Lots of them. The one who bolted an aid ladder around a Layton Kor A3 pitch to avoid the difficulties. The one who (I'm not making this up) added a two bolt anchor 40 feet up an iconic Yosemite crack climb so that it would be convenient to practice and learn aid climbing techniques on for his "clients." I really believe that he is sick.
Here are the links (just glance at the threads and you'll get it; and keep in mind that the Ten Years After thread was started ten years ago and recently reawakened):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2712668/New-anchors-added-to-Book-of-Revelations
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/83680/Erik-Sloan-s-Latest-Victim-Ten-Days-After
I've followed those threads and I've followed what he's done. And as a result I've become a little repulsed by the "retro" phrase "woot." And you're so utterly the opposite of that guy that I just reacted badly to you using the word.
Back now to our regularly scheduled program.
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And yes, I named the pinnacle itself, and I did it in honor of Kathy Cook ("Kat"); she deserves the honor since she's a hell of a Mistress of Mud.
Thanks Brad :o
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Brad - I can edit the thread if you like. Like it never happened.
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Brad - I can edit the thread if you like. Like it never happened.
God (two meanings there :D ), no, don't back edit. I shouldn't have gone there, but I did. Major thread diversion due to issues at another area altogether.
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I meant retro as in bolt. Remember the kid who was always saying "I'm rubber you're glue...", he grew, but not up and became Woot Boy.
A route should be put up called Barfing Rainbows somewhere in Yosemite, to commemorate his optimistic obstinance that appears to have grown deaf to reason.
Sorry, I shouldn't have posted that.
And I shouldn't have chimed in. Yuck, it is like getting in your car to do something important and realizing you stepped in dog shit that wasn't from your dog.
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I now understand. I do not read much of what is posted there. Primarily just look at the picture threads.
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I do not read much of what is posted there. Primarily just look at the picture threads.
I understand now, to keep you from 3rd classing crazy stuff I will bring a coloring book next time, to keep you busy. Paint by numbers for Nelkins. No more x-rated routes?
Speaking of pics, what is Munge doing? Post something, even if it is shopping for your new digs.
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make sure to include extra purple crayons.
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From a week + ago
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1474/23828305899_dea173d3bd.jpg)
Today, I'm coughing sneezing wheezing runny nose fatigued and feeling like shit.
Post more pics please.
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you need to learn from waldo and quit that yard work.
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From a week + ago
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1474/23828305899_dea173d3bd.jpg)
Today, I'm coughing sneezing wheezing runny nose fatigued and feeling like shit.
Post more pics please.
OMFG, your technique is terrible :D
After you're disease free I'll have to show you how to really snowblow (we'll do the lessons on my driveway, naturally).
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He might let you paint his fence too.
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your technique is terrible
That's nothing, the first time was with a shovel.
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That's nothing, the first time was with a shovel.
Ooh, that's really, really bad technique.
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a KIDS snow shovel.
#streetcred <-- munge make funny
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I knew Mungie was going to get back into Alpine stuff.....
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Wow, talk about the way-back machine. Today I added a route to the list that was established in the early 1970s (but was only pointed out to me a short while ago):
591.9 The Tea Bag 5.3
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Wow, talk about the way-back machine. Today I added a route to the list that was established in the early 1970s (but was only pointed out to me a short while ago):
591.9 The Tea Bag 5.3
Okay - how did it go from 4th class to 5.3?
Did you decide it needed additional steeping?
Oh and by the way - The "the" isn't needed Earl Grey ::)
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Okay - how did it go from 4th class to 5.3?
The the isn't needed Earl Grey ::)
1. In my follow-up discussion with Dave he specifically recalled rating it 5.3 then, in the early 1970s. We laughed about that rating nowadays, but he felt that then he was able to differentiate fairly well between the easier grades. I'll go with that memory instead of you, me and Alan's estimation of class four (although I'll change the rating if it ever dries out enough that we can climb it and see how it feels in this more modern era).
2. The The is needed peppermint. Try saying the name out loud (do it while you're driving on the roadway designated as Highway One Hundred One without the The). It sounds right with it and it doesn't sound right without it, and besides, Dave himself, who's been climbing longer than all of us put together, called it The Tea Bag.
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Boy, that photo really does it justice doesn't it? I guess we'll keep it at NO stars?
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Boy, that photo really does it justice doesn't it? I guess we'll keep it at NO stars?
I wouldn't be surprised if that final section is easy 5th class.
I think the only decision will be what kind of dressing we'll use to climb our salad.
I'll have to take a run up Tea Bag when I go to do some or all of the climbs on Teapot Dome :P
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It is not often I say something does not look worth climbing.
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It is not often I say something does not look worth climbing.
Geez. You are snooty! 8)
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Add 'The' to mundane names.
Remove 'The' from extravagant names.
I used to think that was a good rule for the names of climbs.
Turns out "The" before a mundane is not always wanted.
And "The" before an extravagant term is often appropriate.
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I added two new routes to the list today (both are on Kat Pinnacle):
- 287.2 Sweet Caroline 5.8 *
- 287.4 Kentucky Woman 5.7 **
I also revised the description for route 287.8 Cracklin' Rosie, so that it is consistent with it's two new "sister" climbs. I then updated all the total numbers in the introduction to this thread.
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The odd, fun and well protected moves on the crux of Sweet Caroline that Brad has in the description were a challenge for me. My set of adjectives would be more like awkward, intimidating, insecure, committing and exciting. I was pretty mentally psyched out after watching Brad lead it - especially when he got into the middle of the crux and said "uh oh". The movement is very unlike typical Pinns climbing and something I am not very comfortable with. I was glad the pro was good but still did not want to fall. Mistakenly using a crumbly looking foothold instead of a solid one just a few inches higher didn't help either. I'm looking forward to watching clink, nelkins and mud lead this one >:D
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The odd, fun and well protected moves on the crux of Sweet Caroline were the most excitement I've had in a while. The movement is very unlike typical Pinns climbing and something I am not very comfortable with. I was glad the pro was good but still did not want to fall. Mistakenly using a crumbly looking foothold instead of a solid one just a few inches higher didn't help either. I'm looking forward to watching clink, nelkins and mud lead this one >:D
The crux moves on Sweet Caroline probably come easier to a climber who does a lot on granite - they really are atypical of what we normally do at Pinns.
What a great day yesterday too - shirtless and in shorts for part of it (finally some real warmth!).
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Cackling Rosie - that is a good name...
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Cackling Rosie - that is a good name...
It would be. But it wouldn't be very nice :-[
We named our route Cracklin' Rosie (did you skip the letter "r" in your spelling on purpose?).
And to be clear, these are names I gave. K.C. has been kicking ass as a mistress of mud for so long that I thought the name "Kat Pinnacle" would be appropriate and fun. From there Neil Diamond's song "Kentucky Woman" was an obvious route name, and why not use two of his other great songs for other route names nearby?
BTW, if you climb Cracklin' Rosie, you'll see that there's good cause for the "cracklin'" part of the name (notice the no stars?). But it was worth doing; it does end on top of a previously unclimbed pinnacle.
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The crux moves on Sweet Caroline probably come easier to a climber who does a lot on granite - they really are atypical of what we normally do at Pinns.
What a great day yesterday too - shirtless and in shorts for part of it (finally some real warmth!).
Amen to that brother and I agree - it was an excellent day. Sure didn't feel like January!
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It would be. But it wouldn't be very nice :-[
We named our route Crackling' Rosie (did you skip the letter "r" in your spelling on purpose?).
And to be clear, these are names I gave. K.C. has been kicking ass as a mistress of mud for so long that I thought the name "Kat Pinnacle" would be appropriate and fun. From there Neil Diamond's song "Kentucky Woman" was an obvious route name, and why not use two of his other great songs for other route names nearby?
BTW, if you climb Crackling' Rosie, you'll see that there's good cause for the "crackling" part of the name (notice the no stars?). But it was worth doing; it does end on top of a previously unclimbed pinnacle.
Cackling Rosie - that is a good name...
It's Cracklin' damnit!
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While walking out with John, I threatened to disown and mock K.C. if she doesn't lead "Kentucky Woman." I'm totally sure she'll lead it (and soon too - it's warm and dry there, great to go to after a storm cycle).
But if she doesn't, can we rename it to "Prunetucky Woman" instead?
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It's Cracklin' damnit!
Yes it is. Goddamn spell check "fixes" it every time. I swear it took me 10 extra minutes to type the route descriptions because it changed it so many times.
(I fixed it above - or tried to at least.)
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Yes it is. Goddamn spell check "fixes" it every time. I swear it took me 10 extra minutes to type the route descriptions because it changed it so many times.
(I fixed it above - or tried to at least.)
HA, goddamn technology! LOL, can't wait to try this stuff.
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While walking out with John, I threatened to disown and mock K.C. if she doesn't lead "Kentucky Woman." I'm totally sure she'll lead it (and soon too - it's warm and dry there, great to go to after a storm cycle).
But if she doesn't, can we rename it to "Prunetucky Woman" instead?
That's funny. ;D
Unfortunately it would be inaccurate since she isn't from Prunetucky - but KY Fried Chicken could work.
Neither one will be necessary though because she is going to lead it.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the text still shows crackling in the description for Sweet Caroline.
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the text still shows crackling in the description for Sweet Caroline.
Luckily I am alone in my office (although Ellen probably wondered why she heard a bunch of swearing from in here just now).
I fixed that one too.
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good times.
I must have missed the r
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this thread has been formally approved by the "Pics or It Didn't Happen Interwebz Validation Society"
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I must have missed the r
A likely story :-\
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that is my story and I am sticking to it
: )
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that is my story and I am sticking to it
: )
a country boy will survive ;D
dude - we gotta get back out and pound some bolts in!
maybe after this weekend's shindig at mungie's the rain will let up again and we can get the band back together.
the Kid is driving again but still needs some healing...
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Sounds Good.
Good News!
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the Kid is driving again but still needs some healing...
Is she well enough now that we can piggyback her in and let her serve as our belay anchor?
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I added to the list today:
- 301.1 East Wizard Pinnacle - Regular Route Fourth Class
John Cook and I found and climbed this yesterday. As noted, it seemed like it had been climbed before.
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I added to the list today:
- 301.1 East Wizard Pinnacle - Regular Route Fourth Class
John Cook and I found and climbed this yesterday. As noted, it seemed like it had been climbed before.
Noooooooo! Not another Regular Route ::)
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Noooooooo! Not another Regular Route ::)
Of course. First of all it's class four and the name fits for that kind of route. Second of all the name "Regular Route" makes it look like it's been climbed forever (disguising the fact that we just discovered - or rediscovered - it).
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Noooooooo! Not another Regular Route ::)
Noooooooo! Not another Fourth Class Route ::)
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Noooooooo! Not another Fourth Class Route ::)
I only document these in one situation - where they are the easiest way to the top of an otherwise inaccessible pinnacle. In that sense they matter.
For "the record" I recently had a discussion with a person who posts here about a new class four "route" up a cliff face. At the end I think he and I agreed that since it was class four and it didn't get to the top of a separate pinnacle it wasn't what we label as a "route" nowadays at Pinnacles.
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understood.
did anyone else notice all the eye balls roll in sync with each other.
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Noooooooo! Not another Regular Route ::)
Noooooooo! Not another Fourth Class Route ::)
did anyone else notice all the eye balls roll in sync with each other.
::)
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I only document these in one situation - where they are the easiest way to the top of an otherwise inaccessible pinnacle. In that sense they matter.
For "the record" I recently had a discussion with a person who posts here about a new class four "route" up a cliff face. At the end I think he and I agreed that since it was class four and it didn't get to the top of a separate pinnacle it wasn't what we label as a "route" nowadays at Pinnacles.
I love 4th class. You're killing my experience by rubbing out 4th class. ;)
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Hey has anybody else done I AM AN IDIOT PLEASE SHIP ME TO MEXICO This 5.7 *yet?
As part of the FA party I am 110% for this being the new official name of the route.
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I AM AN IDIOT PLEASE SHIP ME TO MEXICO
dafuq?
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too funny. This
Sorry, at my desk laughing.
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Hey has anybody else done I AM AN IDIOT PLEASE SHIP ME TO MEXICO This 5.7 *yet?
As part of the FA party I am 110% for this being the new official name of the route.
Clearly I am no longer in the clique. I guess if I were spending my time at the Real Man crag I would get it.
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my apologies. a certain low life admin somewhere has a certain distaste for this guy that has a well known tower named after him. That same low life admin some how put in a word filter so if someone posts that individuals name here in the forum that name is replaced by the words "I AM AN IDIOT PLEASE SHIP ME TO MEXICO".
That admin is not known for having a very good sense of humor which is why he thinks it is funny. It is also why not many folks figured out the inside joke.
Here's to sweat in your eye
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That admin should quit drinking bottled water from Flint Michigan.
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it was from the Pins pre outhouse cleanup
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If I were admin, we wouldn't have these problems. Only F4 would be bannored.
Either way, "lead" on Flint MacDuff!
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Hey, you forget so easily your lifetime ban.
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Admin told me once "I'll never ban you."
Something about cheap entertainment.
Or was it free beer and Cable TV.
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why would anyone want to drink at your place. All you ever have is IPA
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Mud, I saw your posting about the new, two-bolt that you and Noal put up. But now I can't find it. Could you re-post it or tell me where I saw it please?
And who was on the FA, just the two of you? and was that on Sunday, March 27? Does it have a name?
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Mud, I saw your posting about the new, two-bolt that you and Noal put up. But now I can't find it. Could you re-post it or tell me where I saw it please?
And who was on the FA, just the two of you? and was that on Sunday, March 27? Does it have a name?
I think it is on the Loose Bolts thread.
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Noal ando I established a new route on top of Pinch and Linch Wall. 5.6 or so. A fun well protected free standing pinnacle. 2x bolts, red through blue old style Camelot, a bit short probably right at 30 feet. Cool summit over looking the East Side of the pinnacles. Two bolts on top, we tr'd the face directly below the raps. The tr face is fun but short, I think probably to short to list as a route. Will post pics later. Bring lunch since lunch top rock is a cool place to hang out and eat.
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We put it up on Saturday. Can't remember exactly how we got to it though......
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Thanks for the help.
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We threw around a coupla of names too but I'm leaving the name up to Mr. Mud this time.
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Can't remember exactly how we got to it though......
IPA FA?
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It's a dang ole maze up in there.
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You can see it from just about anywhere on the East Side. I am torn on the name, working on it. Just might need to through a dart. Plus we are working on an approach pitch. I will post a pic sometime later today. Has been a bit crazy up here.
We found a potential line that perhaps only a very few could like. The name would have to be ugly is the new beautiful.
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Noal is kinda cute when he smiles.
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my apologies. a certain low life admin somewhere has a certain distaste for this guy that has a well known tower named after him. That same low life admin some how put in a word filter so if someone posts that individuals name here in the forum that name is replaced by the words "I AM AN IDIOT PLEASE SHIP ME TO MEXICO".
That admin is not known for having a very good sense of humor which is why he thinks it is funny. It is also why not many folks figured out the inside joke.
Here's to sweat in your eye
388.26 Trump This 5.7 * (later changed to Class Clown in honor of George Carlin). This fun and well protected route is located on the left side of Dunce Cap's north face. Eight bolts protect climbing to a good stance below the summit block. Avoid poor rock on this block by traversing around right to a two bolt anchor. The route is 65 feet long, but the rappel down the formation's west side is only 50 feet. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Noal Elkins, Brad Young, Kathy Cook. FA Date: January 1, 2016. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
I am working on stuff today and just discovered this.
I hope this is going to get changed back because I'm not amused.
P.S. The name was never meant to have any relation to Donald Trump. I simply thought the route was really good and fun and trumo this is an expression meaning - let's see you outdo this one.
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Yeah, not very funny to change someone's posts without even letting them know. I thought I was keeping a serious and legitimate list.
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Brad, I think you need to read through the other posts. The humor is explained. Your post is not edited it is a word filter and it can be reversed. I know everyone does not have the same sense of humor but relax a little cuz the guy really is an idiot. Your list is serious and legitimate, unfortunately some folks are of low standards, but I trust that your list will in the end prevail.
Here's to sweat in you eye
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I'm not amused.
wow, it took you a while to find that. I realize that you are not amused but it had me laughing at my desk for half a day. So, I was happy.
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Your post is not edited, it is a word filter and it can be reversed.
I'm quite relaxed, but I would appreciate it if the word filter were reversed.
BTW, one of the many great things about this forum is its lack of political content. I think most of us on here think that this candidate in question is a fool and a sign of foolishness among the electorate. But honestly, if I want to debate that kind of crap on the internet, I'll go to Supertopo.
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...it had me laughing at my desk for half a day. So, I was happy.
You work way too much and way too hard.
So I suppose it was worth it if you were laughing and happy that much and for that long.
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thank you for understanding
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if I want to debate that kind of crap on the internet, I'll go to Supertopo.
Whole heartily agree. I almost posted the same exact thing when I certain thread popped up. But, it was dealt with in another perhaps not so popular way.
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Noal is kinda of cute when he smiles.
I'll keep that in mind when you are around. :winkagain:
I'm not amused.
Not in the least bit? I guess you are not even considering keeping the new name. Makes for a good story if someone asks where it came from. The filter changed all the T*#mps on the site.
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It takes all types. :) ;) :D ;D ::) ??? :P :-X :-\ :-* :'( >:D
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Who will make this forum great again?
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It was great? When did that happen?
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Cut the cheese, and grate again!
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dafuq?
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Made the grunt out to the Northeast Frontier yesterday with Joe, Dani, Zachary, and Jon. We did all the routes on the main formation that has the cobra on it except for the ones Joe and I soloed before. Fun location. Both times I've been to this clump of mud I've wondered why it's called The Northeast Frontier; the formation is the most Southeasterly formation with routes on it in the park. Should be The Southeastern Frontier.
We enjoyed the cobra and Viper. Both cool routes.
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Route #264.5 - 5.6 X - Clint's Escape - FA 1996, Clint Cummins, Lynn Murphy This route climbs the water streak directly across the Yaks Corridor from the chimney on the South Yak West Face route and can be used to climb out of the Yaks Corridor back to the Beast of Burden Rappel. Climb up onto a big chockstone to the 40' water streak. Make a 5.6 move to gain a big hold. Higher up as the streak steepens there is another 5.6 move as you stem/chimney on small holds. Clint wants to go back and put in some bolts to make this protectable. In it's current state a fall anywhere on this route would lead to serious injury or worse.
Clint and I finally got around to installing some bolts on this. There are three bolts on the lower section. The last 10-15 feet, where the crux 5.7 moves are, not 5.6 as previously reported, is a bit runout so this climb deserves an R rating.
264.3 - 5.6 - Bruce's Escape - FA April 5, 2016, Bruce Hildenbrand and Clint Cummins. This route climbs the right-facing dihedral about 50 feet downhill from Clint's Escape. Two bolts in about 40' of climbing. Belay from tree(s).
Note: both these routes were put up to allow a means to get back to the Yaks Rappel after climbing on the North and South Yaks. They aren't really destination climbs. They are just there to facilitate getting back to the rim.
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I added five routes to the list today:
- 264.4 Bruce’s Escape 5.6
- 264.7 Clint’s Escape 5.6 R
- 286.5 Boulder on the Shoulder 5.1
- 294.4 Step Down Regimen 5.2
- 294.5 All Jacked Up 5.4
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Hey, been a long time since I've posted anything on here. I'm sure I could find this out if I read through this entire thread, but I'm kind of lazy (damn millennial generation). But I was wondering if you thought there was potential near the trail up North Chalone peak, above the hand. I was up there recently and I didn't see any bolts on what looked like possible moderates. I'll admit that I've never put up a FA, but I'm aware of the ground up, hand crank ethics of bolting here. I thought it would be cool to take the time to find a route that really inspires me and put something up, particularly in the place where I've done the most climbing. I just don't want to step on any toes or put up an unnecessary route, so I was wondering what you all thought about a new guy going in looking for inspiring stuff? Also wondering if the area I'm thinking of is already very developed, and I'm just behind the 8-ball? I should be out there at the beginning of June. Will be hot, but I'll make the trek early to see what's possible
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Hey, been a long time since I've posted anything on here. I'm sure I could find this out if I read through this entire thread, but I'm kind of lazy (damn millennial generation). But I was wondering if you thought there was potential near the trail up North Chalone peak, above the hand. I was up there recently and I didn't see any bolts on what looked like possible moderates. I'll admit that I've never put up a FA, but I'm aware of the ground up, hand crank ethics of bolting here. I thought it would be cool to take the time to find a route that really inspires me and put something up, particularly in the place where I've done the most climbing. I just don't want to step on any toes or put up an unnecessary route, so I was wondering what you all thought about a new guy going in looking for inspiring stuff? Also wondering if the area I'm thinking of is already very developed, and I'm just behind the 8-ball? I should be out there at the beginning of June. Will be hot, but I'll make the trek early to see what's possible
Hey Andrew - You just missed our Masters of Mud weekend where all your questions could have been answered - ironic huh?There are some developed areas off the Chalone Peak Trail that don't have bolts but you'll have to be more specific about the location. There are also some remote areas up that way where really old climbs have just a few old bolts that will be very hard or virtually impossible to see - Rubble Wall for instance. I have been wanting to explore that area for quite some time. Maybe post a screenshot from Google Earth with the potential area labeled if it is not already in the current guidebook. We are also developing a new area off that trail and Brad is planning to make it public in the next few weeks. I'll be climbing and rebolting throughout the summer. You can send me message on here if you like and we can make a plan to meet.
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Thanks for the post back! I'll take some time to look into the area I've been thinking of further. I graduate May 21st, and after that I'm free to rebolt or put up routes whenever needed. Anytime you want to meet after that would be awesome!
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Thanks for the post back! I'll take some time to look into the area I've been thinking of further. I graduate May 21st, and after that I'm free to rebolt or put up routes whenever needed. Anytime you want to meet after that would be awesome!
Because it's there and inconvenient to find.
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Thanks for the post back! I'll take some time to look into the area I've been thinking of further. I graduate May 21st, and after that I'm free to rebolt or put up routes whenever needed. Anytime you want to meet after that would be awesome!
Andrew, yes, several of the posters here would be great teachers. Starting with them would put you on the right track (I don't include myself in this comment for now since, after next weekend I will be done with my Pinns season until next Autumn).
The formation you posted about does seem to be The Rubble Wall (pages 124 and 125 of the 2007 guidebook). That's the only thing that seems to fit your description. That "wall" has five routes on it, all older than I am. It's surprisingly easy to approach from above (after a relatively long hike on the trail).
Where are you graduating from?
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June is toasty! JC is your guy for summer pain.
Hand drillin on granite is fun too.
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Alright, I see it now in the book. I'll have to check that wall out next time!
I'm graduating from Sac State.
June is the perfect time for night climbing though! Since the rock burns you during the day
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Sac is so close to Sierra granite goodness though!
There are untouched walls at Pinns. You'll be surprised after getting the locations and existing climbs dialed in.
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Andrew, you are being seduced by granite climbers in moss and lichen covered clothing.
Beware!
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Now I love me some granite, but something about being 20 feet above a bolt and having a foot chip break on you is so enticing!
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There is a lot of fun to be had. Keep and eye out, there are some good places to go when the Pins get hot.
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Now I love me some granite, but something about being 20 feet above a bolt and having a foot chip break on you is so enticing!
Jesus, you better learn from Cook. I've been climbing there for 32 years now and I really don't find that kinda stuff "enticing!" >:D
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but something about being 20 feet above a bolt and having a foot chip break on you is so enticing!
A restraining order may be necessary.
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 410.9 Sew What Slot 5.8
- 484.5 Summit Experience 5.6
On Summit Experience, would each of you that has had the unusually pleasant opportunity of climbing this please read the description carefully - this one was really hard to write up.
I'm working on descriptions for several other new routes and will post them when they are ready.
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To b or not to c the light.
Remember, every time I climb it it goes up a letter and I plan on climbing it again this Sunday.
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with the person there it is clear it is taller than 28 feet.
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Remember, every time I climb it it goes up a letter and I plan on climbing it again this Sunday.
He said with god-like omniscience....
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...with the person there it is clear it is taller than 28 feet.
Yeah, OK, but how is the description for accuracy (it says 30 feet BTW)?
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I hope the go to hold that juts out like a paddle stays put.
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Yeah, OK, but how is the description for accuracy (it says 30 feet BTW)?
oh, come now Brad, it is 31.65 if it is an inch
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oh, come now Brad, it is 31.65 if it is an inch
Is Mud your nickname or your state of mind?
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 410.9 Sew What Slot 5.8
- 484.5 Summit Experience 5.6
On Summit Experience, would each of you that has had the unusually pleasant opportunity of climbing this please read the description carefully - this one was really hard to write up.
I'm working on descriptions for several other new routes and will post them when they are ready.
Sew What looks good and now I have to go lead that wretched thing. It will be a good challenge.
On the Summit Exp description I think some of those really long linked phrases would read easier if broken into individual sentences. I can do an edit tomorrow and send it if you like.
You also forgot to mention the part where you hold your breath and slide down to an exposed potential death drop to get to the base. Maybe just put DIE after the part about the wedged boulder.
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Sew What looks good and now I have to go lead that wretched thing. It will be a good challenge.
Do I need to tell the brown pants/climbing guide story?
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NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooo
::)
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How did JC survive the stove is hot, do not touch stage? Did his parents have to break the oven door to retrieve him from the selfcleaning cycle?
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On the Summit Exp description I think some of those really long linked phrases would read easier if broken into individual sentences. I can do an edit tomorrow and send it if you like.
I worked it over some more.
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I worked it over some more.
Definite improvement.
You forgot DIE :D
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J.C. took this shot showing me in Sew What Slot up almost to the base of the true chimney:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1666/26630282471_5fcb8bcdca_b.jpg)
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Gavin placing the fifth bolt on When I was Your Age (5.10b**):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1498/26668238476_6fb7e02238_c.jpg)
A close up of that shot showing well the hook and sling that are keeping him on the rock:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1668/26628888071_4bfd09e4bd_c.jpg)
Clink placing the seventh bolt on When I Was Your Age (damn fine job getting that high on the headwall):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1674/26695153035_f58aab2eb5_c.jpg)
A nicely framed shot by J.C. of the first lead of When I Was Your Age (at the third bolt):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1702/26090685454_9f824933b8_b.jpg)
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Cool shots.
The ones of Gavin are especially nice. I dig the RED ;D
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needs its own thread!
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something like the weekly favorite picture thread? ; )
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needs its own thread!
Why? These are new and found routes ;D
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This thread needs an enema! ;D
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that is a fun route. But doesn't it belong in Everywhere Else?
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that is a fun route. But doesn't it belong in Everywhere Else?
Wow, so there is actually a slight kernel of a Valley Climber left in you. I thought that the mud had purged it all.
NIAD 16 ;)
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; )
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Isn't it going to be weird climbing at Pinns and thinking that Mud is watching it rain from a coffee shop's window?
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in july!
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I don't get it. What are you guys talking about?
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I don't get it. What are you guys talking about?
Which "you guys" are you referring to, my comment to Dennis, Clink's comment to Dennis or his replies?
I could 'splain them all Lucy if I knew what you were asking about 8)
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Isn't it going to be weird climbing at Pinns and thinking that Mud is watching it rain from a coffee shop's window?
Even worse will be the questions and how he'll try to answer them:
- Washington Noob Climber ("WNC"): "Wow, you're from California. Have you ever climbed in Yosemite?"
- Dennis: "Sure. But there's this place there called Pinnacles that you..."
- WNC: "Yeah, but Yosemite, wow. Isn't that where they have that thing called El Capitan?"
- Dennis: "El Cap, yeah. But there's this place where the adventure is so..."
- WNC: "Would you ever go back to Yosemite and maybe let me go with you?"
And so forth. We should watch his hairline to see how much of it he's been pulling out in frustration.
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did I miss something about Mr Strum? He had better not be moving....
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Brad
that was funny. Got a good laugh.
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Hmmm, I think there will be a flurry of routes as I just stocked M. Mud up with hangers.
Pink ones!
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I don't get it. What are you guys talking about?
The talk between you and mud about - it is a fun route but shouldn't it be in everywhere else and on again about the valley. it's like you had a side conversation that's not there?
the thing about pinns and yos is really good ;D
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the enema is a climb @ the cookie in the valley. There's chimneys there you'd love it.
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The talk between you and mud about - it is a fun route but shouldn't it be in everywhere else and on again about the valley. it's like you had a side conversation that's not there?
the thing about pinns and yos is really good ;D
Munge Poop made a mean, hurtful and nasty comment about this thread needing an enema. Dennis replied that that is a fun route but the post should be in the Mudn'Crud section about Everywhere Else.
The Enema is a well known, overhanging 5.11b hand crack at The Cookie in Yosemite Valley. It's called that because, if you can straddle a horn partway up you can get a rest (that part's "the enema"). So, a comment about The Enema belongs in the Everywhere Else thread.
I then observed that he's still got some of the spirit of his Yosemite Valley days in him and signed off using what used to be one of his really, really serious goals: "NIAD 16" (Nose in a Day in 16 hours). Mud's done the Nose in a day, but in, I think, 22 hours or so (help me out here Dennis).
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There's chimneys there you'd love it.
There's a guy who's just cruising around asking for trouble....
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I added the three completed Voyeur Wall routes to the list today:
- 410.22 Cutting the Rug 5.10d **
- 410.26 O.C.D. Overdrive 5.8 *
- 410.28 Sticky Monkey 5.11b ***
I gotta add here too that, having climbed on Voyeur Wall now, I think that the name is fantastically well thought out.
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There's a guy who's just cruising around asking for trouble....
Trouble's my business.
I have the same birthday as Raymond Chandler
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Trouble's my business.
I have the same birthday as Raymond Chandler
And perhaps our cultural attache could explain to those of us not in the know who Mr Chandler is?
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i'm not the attache but here ya go
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Chandler (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Chandler)
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a little over 18
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Trouble's my business.
I have the same birthday as Raymond Chandler
Raymond wrote about L.A. before it got Confidential. Speaking of which, allow me to suggest a book written by an old friend of mine: "The Real L.A. Confidential" by Pete Noyes. Pete was a reporter and wrote about all the gossip he couldn't report. Teaser: a serial killer once got picked on the Dating Game. The lady had second thoughts and didn't go out with him.
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I then observed that he's still got some of the spirit of his Yosemite Valley days in him and signed off using what used to be one of his really, really serious goals: "NIAD 16" (Nose in a Day in 16 hours). Mud's done the Nose in a day, but in, I think, 22 hours or so (help me out here Dennis).
He was my HeRO, but 22hrs is slow....
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He was my HeRO, but 22hrs is slow....
Proud
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i'm not the attache but here ya go
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Chandler (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Chandler)
We don't click on links here - unless they are missing links - which you obviously have a few of - along with a few screws loose! ;D :D :lol:
And perhaps our cultural attache could explain to those of us not in the know who Mr Chandler is?
Chandler is the guys on friends that gets with Monica :o ??? ::)
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We don't click on links here - unless they are missing links - which you obviously have a few of - along with a few screws loose! ;D :D :lol:
Chandler is the guys on friends that gets with Monica :o ??? ::)
I thought friends were mostly found in cracks.
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- 410.9 Sew What Slot 5.8
- 410.26 O.C.D. Overdrive 5.8 *
I led Sew What Slot and pitch 1 of OCD today. I already led p2 of OCD Monday when Brad and I climbed the whole route. I very carefully cleaned off/removed loose stuff from Sew What Slot. I also added some longer chains to the anchor. The rope pulls really nice now. I used every cam on my rack except the #2 camalot. I didn't take a #4.
I used one each - green, yellow, gray, red alien and 0.5, .75, 1, 3, 5 and 6 camalots.
That's 6 more pieces than Brad placed when he led it :o - not by choice of course - that's all he had.
There is a surprising amount of decent rock and some interesting moves.
The rappel doesn't quite reach the trail but deposits you about 8 feet up into the start of the slot where it is easy to get down.
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I led Sew What Slot and pitch 1 of OCD today. I already led p2 of OCD Monday when Brad and I climbed the whole route. I very carefully cleaned off/removed loose stuff from Sew What Slot. I also added some longer chains to the anchor. The rope pulls really nice now. I used every cam on my rack except the #2 camalot. I didn't take a #4.
I used one each - green, yellow, gray, red alien and 0.5, .75, 1, 3, 5 and 6 camalots.
That's 6 more pieces than Brad placed when he led it :o - not by choice of course - that's all he had.
There is a surprising amount of decent rock and some interesting moves.
The rappel doesn't quite reach the trail but deposits you about 8 feet up into the start of the slot where it is easy.
Kinda sad, isn't it? In one week's time we probably tripled the number of ascents this route has seen. And now no-one will ever climb it again (because it has no stars) :( :(
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There is a surprising amount of decent rock and some interesting moves.
Compared to?
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^^if you buy into the whole star thing.
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^^if you buy into the whole star thing.
Did you see my route name in Route Words?
Dude Where's My Star?
We have a new reptile in the lineup of Pinnacles critters. KC and I climbed it yesterday.
First was The Frog (amphibian), then The Snail (gastropod) and The Tadpole (future frogs of America ;D).
The Turtle 5.3 joined the ranks on 5-1-16 ;D :D 8)
The head is a little small - could this be ancestral Zika virus? :o
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264047743_40bc0300f2_z.jpg)
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KC follows Sew What Slot
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264805712_acc8441a7b_z.jpg)
Nice new chains on the rebolted anchor - Sew What Slot - now go use 'em!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264623791_cd95b1909d_z.jpg)
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Big step: I added twenty (20!) routes to the list today. All of these new routes start with either #302 or #305. All are on the (previously unclimbed) formations The Old Man, Granny's Kitchen, Widow's Peak, or are on the ridge-top near them.
There are some really good routes in these areas.
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Wow 20 new routes! What's more surprising is John's photo of the chains on sew what chimney. What is that something like 15 links and ten? Even with putting in the new anchor and returning with the chains I have to give it to you as the equalization meister. Did you have alternates of chain in your pack?
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Wow 20 new routes! What's more surprising is John's photo of the chains on sew what chimney. What is that something like 15 links and ten? Even with putting in the new anchor and returning with the chains I have to give it to you as the equalization meister. Did you have alternates of chain in your pack?
Thanks Noal - it was 9 and 15. When I followed Brad's lead and replaced the anchor we left webbing, screwlinks and single chain links.
I used another sling to measure the difference and tied a knot in it so I could measure the offset when I got home.
When Kat and I went back I didn't take any alternate pieces since I had cams to #6 :o
I had to play around with the vectors a bit to get a good angle. What's your vector Victor?
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I climbed the fairly new route "Where's Dave?" (5.5) on The Toe today. The critical large knob for the starting crux move is loose and wobbling slightly. This knob is critical for the lieback/rock-up move onto the face from the ledge. When this breaks off, it will drastically change the rating of this fun route.
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I climbed the fairly new route "Where's Dave?" (5.5) on The Toe today. The critical large knob for the starting crux move is loose and wobbling slightly. This knob is critical for the lieback/rock-up move onto the face from the ledge. When this breaks off, it will drastically change the rating of this fun route.
Should stay intact for a few more ascents since Brad and Aaron have already climbed it :ihih: :yesnod: :lol:
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Enjoying the fruits of my labor Sunday and the benefits of a positive ape index ;D :yesnod: :ihih:
Redpointing Here's Mud in Your Eye 5.8**!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264032403_14d637cf42_z.jpg)
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Climbed Squeaky Clean Mud with JC, as he says, it was stupid fun. Steep 5.6.
Aaron, myself, Bee and Paul climbed Mud Diamond, sweet rock. They also climbed Prairie Falcon, Imprint, Here's Mud in your Eye and Bathing Beauty. Aaron , JC also wandered up Craig's route, said it was good.
Many of these are north facing, great for warm days but cold in the wind yesterday.
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Squeaky is worth the walk out there by itself!
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Does The Proctor, 5.6 ascend the upper (shorter and lower angle) crack of the formation, or the lower (longer and steeper)crack in the corner (both are up and right cracks)? The lower, longer crack seemed more difficult at the start than the upper crack, which was pretty trivial and low angle. The lower crack also moves onto the face and meets up with the upper crack route to summit the formation.
There are also two newer bolts on top, not one old one. Two SS bolts? with plated hangers which are covered in weird white spots. Is that galvanic corrosion?
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Does The Proctor, 5.6 ascend the upper (shorter and lower angle) crack of the formation, or the lower (longer and steeper)crack in the corner (both are up and right cracks)? The lower, longer crack seemed more difficult at the start than the upper crack, which was pretty trivial and low angle. The lower crack also moves onto the face and meets up with the upper crack route to summit the formation.
There are also two newer bolts on top, not one old one. Two SS bolts? with plated hangers which are covered in weird white spots. Is that galvanic corrosion?
Drill dust or bird poop? Definitely not galvanic corrosion. Looking again I believe that is just stainless "patina". Absolutley nothing to worry about. Those bolts will be good for 100 years or more.
Check my rebolting master list - I just replaced that anchor not too long ago - our rebolting replacement standard is all stainless long 5 pc bolts and hangers with the ASCA stamp. I usually use Petzl hangers for the lead bolts. No mixed metals ever.
Here is the route.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50264138661_c5eec9d1a6_z.jpg)
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It must have been the dust that had dried on the hangers then and made them look like that.
I figured that lower crack was the proctor, since the rating lengths of the crack/face that were described were more similar than the shorter upper crack. But I had to do the upper one just to be sure I did the correct route.
Thanks for the clarification!
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Here's a picture of the hanger. I guess it's just the finish or whatever, not dust or poop.
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If you see a hanger that is stamped ASCA it is always solid stainless.
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If you see a hanger that is stamped ASCA it is always solid stainless.
Thanks! cool to know
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Thanks! cool to know
Thanks for the pic Max. That helps. That is just normal oxidation. Stainless resists rust by forming a thin coating of oxidation on the surface - similar to a Patina on other metals like copper, bronze, brass. The coating once formed protects the metal.
Carbon steel will look very shiny in comparison (before it starts rusting) and it will not have the INOX stamp on it. Not many manufacturers even produce carbon steel hangers - for example - Metolius and Petzl don't make anything but stainless.
This is not from my favorite source but it does a good job explaining.
Stainless steel differs from carbon steel by the amount of chromium present. Unprotected carbon steel rusts readily when exposed to air and moisture. This iron oxide film (the rust) is active and accelerates corrosion by forming more iron oxide.
Stainless steels contain sufficient chromium to form a passive film of chromium oxide, which prevents further surface corrosion by blocking oxygen diffusion to the steel surface and blocks corrosion from spreading into the metal's internal structure.
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I added four new routes to the list today:
- 485.5 The Hedonist 5.3 R *
- 485.83 Gruff 5.10a
- 485.84 Satyr Pinnacle 5.6
- 858.7 The Barber Pole 5.6
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I added four new routes to the list today:
- 485.5 The Hedonist 5.3 R *
- 485.83 Gruff 5.10a
- 485.84 Satyr Pinnacle 5.6
- 858.7 The Barber Pole 5.6
Worth a repost
beanolar leading The Hedonist (taken from Satyr)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4419/37041877306_64314f49fe_z.jpg)
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And I just now added 17 more new routes to the list. All are on or near Crudn'Mud (somebody had a busy summer). :o :o
Rather than list and/or format all 17 here, I'll just note that all 17 start with the number 322 or 325.
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Do all routes on Pioneer Pinnacle share one anchor?
322.2 Chasam 5.9 Source(s): John Cook and Brad Young watched the first ascent from beginning to end and discussed the name and rating with the two route authors.
Let us in on the reference? (Rhymes with shazam, or phonetic spelling of chasm, or ??)
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Do all routes on Pioneer Pinnacle share one anchor?
One anchor. And that anchor is kind of centered on the top of the formation and so isn't easy to use for rappels (and so its not equipped with chains).
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Thanks. That's what I thought, but I started to over-analyze "322.3 Imprint 5.8 * ...to the Prairie Falcon anchor."
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Let us in on the reference? (Rhymes with shazam, or phonetic spelling of chasm, or ??)
The first three letters of the two first ascent author's first names.
John and I are listed as first ascentionists because we were there and helped them from beginning to end with their effort (all while rolling our eyes a little since it wasn't a line we would have chosen to climb). But they did the actual work, they loved, loved, loved the experience, and they had the most fun (it may be a no-star route, but it was clearly a three star experience for them and I'm glad they did it).
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Do all routes on Pioneer Pinnacle share one anchor?
Let us in on the reference? (Rhymes with shazam, or phonetic spelling of chasm, or ??)
He (Sam) wanted people to pronounce it Shazam - even though I doubt he is a Gomer Pyle fan.
I also wondered and you confirmed it - if people would think it was some kind of play on words for chasm.
I'll be curious to inspect the route and climb it - we didn't get a chance.
Maybe we can squeeze another line in next to it and call it Gaul Lee :lol:
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He (Sam) wanted people to pronounce it Shazam
Hmm, I'm expecting that means I'll only ever get to climb it once, as everyone within a 3 county radius will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.
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Hmm, I'm expecting that means I'll only ever get to climb it once, as everyone within a 3 county radius will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.
Wear your lightning bolt t-shirt
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... will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.
We all bear our own crosses....
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Hmm, I'm expecting that means I'll only ever get to climb it once, as everyone within a 3 county radius will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.
Mix it up with a few Gollllllleeees! and it won't be so monotonous - and don't worry, I have a feeling you probably won't feel an indescribable desire to climb it again :lol: :yesnod: :nonod: :out: :crazy: :biggrin:
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 484.1 Across the Great Divide 5.4 *
- 485.3 Faun Pinnacle Class Four
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 484.1 Across the Great Divide 5.4 *
- 485.3 Faun Pinnacle Class Four
Looks good - thanks!
I did notice a couple of minor things on Faun. There is a bit of extra space after the third sentence. That same sentence uses a phrase that was a pet peeve of one of my profs in grad school. She would say rocks and boulders don't run. When referring to direction/orientation, she preferred the term trend, oriented or something similar - anything but run.
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I was also noticing that by the time you get everything caught up there will probably be 200 routes on the list - pretty cool!
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...that same sentence uses a phrase that was a pet peeve of one of my profs in grad school. She would say rocks and boulders don't run. When referring to direction/orientation, she preferred the term trend, oriented or something similar - anything but run.
You've made that point before, you are entirely correct, and you've convinced me on other occasions (remind me again in the future too when I do it again!).
Here however, I went to make a change and noticed that the word "run" is needed because it refers to the 200 feet more than it does the direction of the rocks (if I changed the word "run" to "oriented," for example, it wouldn't read right).
I couldn't figure out how the other (spacing) issue occurred - it wasn't on the Word document or in the input box here on this site when I "posted." but it was present on the thread. I think I fixed it.
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You've made that point before, you are entirely correct, and you've convinced me on other occasions (remind me again in the future too when I do it again!).
Here however, I went to make a change and noticed that the word "run" is needed because it refers to the 200 feet more than it does the direction of the rocks (if I changed the word "run" to "oriented," for example, it wouldn't read right).
I couldn't figure out how the other (spacing) issue occurred - it wasn't on the Word document or in the input box here on this site when I "posted." but it was present on the thread. I think I fixed it.
Faun Pinnacle is the only technical summit in the jumble of rocks and boulders that define the right (southwest) side of the normal, walk-off descent from Goat Rock’s summit. These rocks are 20 to 30 feet southwest of Goat’s southwest edge (the low-angle dirt corridor between them and Goat is the Goat Rock descent). The rocks and boulders run about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest).
I would change it to jumble of formations. When I read rocks and boulders I think of things much smaller - like something you could throw or roll/trundle - even though boulders can technically be quite large. I still crack up every time I think of Rubine's Crud and Mud description.
How about extend instead of run?
Here goes:
Faun Pinnacle is the only technical summit in the jumble of rock formations that define the right (southwest) side of the normal, walk-off descent from Goat Rock’s summit. These formations are 20 to 30 feet southwest of Goat’s southwest edge (the low-angle dirt corridor between them and Goat is the Goat Rock descent). The formations extend for about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest).
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The spacing is good by the way.
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I changed it to almost what you suggested. Try it now.
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I changed it to almost what you suggested. Try it now.
It didn't read right: "extend" wasn't the right word in that context. Now I think it's final.
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It didn't read right: "extend" wasn't the right word in that context. Now I think it's final.
Formations rocks! :biggrin: :thumbup:
The formations cover an area that extends for about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest). :lol::out:
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Formations rocks! :biggrin: :thumbup:
The formations cover an area that extends for about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest). :lol::out:
Nope, sorry...further revisions are necessary but I am running out of ideas.
Figured it was worth a try to run some more ideas by you.
The formations occupy an area that extends for about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest).
The formations occupy a swath that reaches from about 200 feet downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest). :
The formations exist in a twilight zone - like area that extends for about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest).
The formations are in Narnia.
If you are in the area, try to outrun the formations or they will pass you by.
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I just got back from a run on the railroad grade with the girls. Your post is run on. You're running into a wall.
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You're running into a wall.
Who can take a sunrise (who can take a sunrise)
Sprinkle it with dew (sprinkle it with dew)
Cover it with choc'late and a miracle or two
The Candy Man (the Candy Man)
Oh, the Candy Man can (the Candy Man can)
The Candy Man can
'Cause he mixes it with love
And makes the world taste good
(Makes the world taste good)
Who can take a rainbow (who can take a rainbow)
Wrap it in a sigh (wrap it in a sigh)
Soak it in the sun and make a groovy lemon pie
The Candy Man (the Candy Man)
The Candy Man can (the Candy Man can)
The Candy Man can
No kidding
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Who can take a sunrise (who can take a sunrise)
Sprinkle it with dew (sprinkle it with dew)
Cover it with choc'late and a miracle or two
The Candy Man (the Candy Man)
Oh, the Candy Man can (the Candy Man can)
The Candy Man can
'Cause he mixes it with love
And makes the world taste good
(Makes the world taste good)
Who can take a rainbow (who can take a rainbow)
Wrap it in a sigh (wrap it in a sigh)
Soak it in the sun and make a groovy lemon pie
The Candy Man (the Candy Man)
The Candy Man can (the Candy Man can)
The Candy Man can
No kidding
DIE!
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DIE!
It's almost bedtime. I'm about to ruin yours, so turn away if you still want to sleep tonight. Ready?
Clink, singing that song in the bathtub :puke:
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It's almost bedtime. I'm about to ruin yours, so turn away if you still want to sleep tonight. Ready?
Clink, singing that song in the bathtub :puke:
Nice! - luckily I had already shut down for the night :lol: :sleep:
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I added nine new routes to the list today:
- 363.21 Coffee Can Pinnacle - Your Ad Goes Here 5.8
- 363.22 The Best Part of Waking Up 5.7
- 363.51 On a Pale Face 5.6
- 363.52 Chaos in Motion 5.7 R
- 363.53 Give Me Sixty Nine Years 5.3 *
- 363.61 Whaleback - Stairway to the Sun 5.0 *
- 364.9 The Outpost 5.8
- 484.91 Silence Has A Right to Be Heard 5.3
- 484.92 Black Sun in a White World 5.4
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I added nine new routes to the list today:
- 363.21 Coffee Can Pinnacle - Your Ad Goes Here 5.8
- 363.22 The Best Part of Waking Up 5.7
- 363.51 On a Pale Face 5.6
- 363.52 Chaos in Motion 5.7 R
- 363.53 Give Me Sixty Nine Years 5.3 *
- 363.61 Whaleback - Stairway to the Sun 5.0 *
- 364.9 The Outpost 5.8
- 484.91 Silence Has A Right to Be Heard 5.3
- 484.92 Black Sun in a White World 5.4
Should it be Silence has a Right to be Heard?
I thought we decided Black Sun is R
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Should it be Silence has a Right to be Heard?
I thought we decided Black Sun is R
There you go Chief (i.e. fixed).
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I added our new route from yesterday to the list:
485.2 Hoof It 5.8 *
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I added three new routes today:
- 472.4 Elf Pinnacle 5.6
- 472.5 Pulaski Pinnacle 5.1 R
- 478.7 Jingle Bell Rock 5.7 *
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He finally came out... of the bushes.
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I added five routes to the list today:
- 363.41 Into the Labyrinth 5.5
- 363.51 How Fortunate the Man With None 5.6
- 364.71 Tutor Rock - Middle Summit Class Three
- 364.72 Private Lessons 5.1 (TR)
- 370.4 False Flatiron Class Four
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I added a route to the list today:
- 385.2 Shadows of Madness 5.10c **
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I added one route to the list today:
- 714.2 Send in the Clowns 5.7 R
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I added one route to the list today:
- 714.2 Send in the Clowns 5.7 R
This is a joke right?
I thought this anchor encroaches on another route and is only the first pitch of a project formerly known as Turkey Squat.
This name is also the title of one of the worst songs ever written.
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This is a joke right?
I thought this anchor encroaches on another route and is only the first pitch of a project formerly known as Turkey Squat.
This name is also the title of one of the worst songs ever written.
No, "Turkey Squat" was a working name that I gave it (with a smile on my face after I survived leading it). No-one ever knew that I listed it that way except you and Munge.
It's a complete, one pitch route. The encroaching anchor is one or two hundred feet higher and isn't part of this route at all (and that extra anchor was placed inadvertently).
As to the name? Well I pushed Munge pretty hard to come up with a name and he was kind enough to oblige me so I could post this. Gotta agree about the song - although I'm not sure it's the writing on that one, it may be the singing (imagine AC/DC's version of it - if they had done one, and it probably wouldn't be that bad). So if he wants to stick with that as a name, we will. And if he tells me to change it, I will. 8) 8)
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1. JC, why would it be a joke? Perhaps there's a good story behind the name.
2. If anyone gives a shit about what has been labelled 'encroaching' feel free to message me. A lead bolt was doubled, no run out distances were modified. And when done, Where the Birds Hang will have been partially rebolted (not retrobolted).
3. I pinged Josh already about a name. It's technically his to name, even though the first part of the route had a wonderful clown on the sharp end.
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1. JC, why would it be a joke? Perhaps there's a good story behind the name.
2. If anyone gives a shit about what has been labelled 'encroaching' feel free to message me. A lead bolt was doubled, no run out distances were modified. And when done, Where the Birds Hang will have been partially rebolted (not retrobolted).
3. I pinged Josh already about a name. It's technically his to name, even though the first part of the route had a wonderful clown on the sharp end.
Whoops! Sorry Mungie, sorry Josh - I was just giving Brad grief - imagine that :lol:
I didn't mean to say or imply that anyone had done anything wrong or improper.
I guess I am going to have to go back and remove all the bolts to restore all of my runouts.
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I guess I am going to have to go back and remove all the bolts to restore all of my runouts.
>:D
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I just couldn't figure out why it took so long to post the route and I got curious.
Sunday we did one route that was new to me. This route was among the worst 10% of routes I've ever done at Pinns (really bad rock quality and dirt everywhere). I led this and then invited Roger to skip it. He insisted that he wanted to at least follow it and then did so. He ended up just laughing at how bad it was. But this turned out to be a critical climb - it helped him set his gauge regarding how bad Pinns climbs can be.
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I couldn't figure out why it took Brad so long to post the route.
Ha, guessing he's shoveling snow. For the 4th time. Today.
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I couldn't figure out why it took Brad so long to post the route.
It was 3 years from the FA until he led it and another 3 years until he posted it.
Maybe this needs to go on the Historic thread. It's got to be some kind of record.
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It was 3 years from the FA until he led it and another 3 years until he posted it - wtf?
That must have been one hell of an extended phone conversation. I hope long distance charges didn't apply :lol:
Maybe this needs to go on the Historic thread.
JC, clearly he's getting older. Age and what not.
AT ANY rate, worth a repeat
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He had been holding off on it, in part waiting for me to get back in there to push the line.
Now that it has a reputation, and my willing victims, er I mean partners, are either not climbing at all or are doing Grade V FAs in Yosemite.
oye
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Hold the line
Love isn't always on time
It's not in the words that you told me
It's not in the way you say you're mine
It's not in the way that you came back to me
It's not in the way that your love set me free
It's not in the way you look or the things that you say that you do
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He had been holding off on it, in part waiting for me to get back in there to push the line.
Now that it has a reputation, and my willing victims, er I mean partners, are either not climbing at all or are doing Grade V FAs in Yosemite.
oye
See - I knew it wasn't intended to originally finish where it did!
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See - I knew it wasn't intended to originally finish where it did.
I'm starting to agree with the (so far) quiet suggestions that we use a cattle prod on him.
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I added six new routes to the list today:
- 352.914 A Grand Adventure 5.6 *
- 352.915 Party Crasher 5.6 R
- 352.923 Celebration Slab 5.3 *
- 352.926 Geezer Pleezer 5.0 *
- 352.941 Junction Boulder - Summit Route 5.4
- 364.13 Merry Poppins 5.11a *
Those who've done these routes will please look over the descriptions and offer edits or suggestions.
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352.914 A Grand Adventure 5.6 * FA Party: blahblahblah, Shane Hill, blahblahblah
Look ma, I'm famous!
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Look ma, I'm famous!
Well it's not exactly like you're on the cover of the Rolling Stone :D
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364.13 Merry Poppins 5.11a * This short crack climb is located on the Chimney Sweep formation, 175 feet right of Flue Fire. Look for a crack in a corner where the south-facing side of a buttress joins the main rock. Small to medium gear protect 30 feet of climbing to a two-bolt anchor (the route ends here because the rock deteriorates above).
Aaron and I were entertained and gripped watching King, on his second go, boulder up past where his first piece would do any good, switching hands in the little finger locks and looking for what to grab next. He managed to stick the next couple of thin moves to a rest and get in a second and final cam. Of the many spontaneous vocal "yodel" exclamations that erupted out of King, one he claimed was a first issuance, never heard before.
The rock is very good at the crux.
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Is she well enough now that we can piggyback her in and let her serve as our belay anchor?
I DON'T GET ON HERE ENOUGH! At least seeing and/or replying to your quips late is better than never :P
Real question: I'm looking for directions to Old Man and Voyeur crags and any other new stuff in the 5.10-5.11 ranges. Has anyone written anything up or are you guys still protecting your secrets and potential lines or am I just incompetent at navigating these forums? Also do you think that stuff will be dry by tomorrow?
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I DON'T GET ON HERE ENOUGH! At least seeing and/or replying to your quips late is better than never :P
Real question: I'm looking for directions to Old Man and Voyeur crags and any other new stuff in the 5.10-5.11 ranges. Has anyone written anything up or are you guys still protecting your secrets and potential lines or am I just incompetent at navigating these forums? Also do you think that stuff will be dry by tomorrow?
No secrets, you're "just incompetent."
Go to the first page of this thread:
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=886.0
Routes at The Old Man start with the number 302.
I've got the new map done too, which shows The Old Man. But I am leaving for a week in Red Rocks in one hour and can't get it to you right now. J.C. has the map, and I think the ability to print it out. Perhaps if you ask him nicely?
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No secrets, you're "just incompetent."
I'll inform my employer it's time to send me out to pasture. Actually I think I'm suffering from a combination of poor internet connection, old computer, and lack of coffee.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Have fun in RR!
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I think both areas will be dry. The Voyeur Wall has an easier approach but it is shady. If you choose to climb there remember the climbs go right to left: Sticky Monkey, OCD Overdrive, then Cutting the Rug,
Have fun!
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I think both areas will be dry. The Voyeur Wall has an easier approach but it is shady. If you choose to climb there remember the climbs go right to left: Sticky Monkey, OCD Overdrive, then Cutting the Rug,
Have fun!
Agreed, both areas will be dry.
There hasn't been any precip since 2-27 at 10:30 am - not that I am keeping track or anything :lol:
NOAL - I thought there was one more hard route done to the left?
I think the Kid should have to help you and Mud finish Piggyback Relay Race before she climbs on Voyeur :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
I've got plans to kick it old school tomorrow with KC and anybody else that's interested - do some climbing and rebolting out where the wild things are.
Too bad it is supposed to rain Sunday - I was looking forward to 2 days but I'll take what I can get.
Now the question is - will the Kid check back here in less than a year :out: :crazy: :idea:
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NOAL - I thought there was one more hard route done to the left?
Yes, but there is not an anchor on it . That's one reason why i wanted to clarify the order.
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Yes, but there is not an anchor on it . That's one reason why i wanted to clarify the order.
No problem dude. I just seemed to remember some talk about another harder route there that Steve climbed.
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I DON'T GET ON HERE ENOUGH! At least seeing and/or replying to your quips late is better than never :P
Real question: I'm looking for directions to Old Man and Voyeur crags and any other new stuff in the 5.10-5.11 ranges. Has anyone written anything up or are you guys still protecting your secrets and potential lines or am I just incompetent at navigating these forums? Also do you think that stuff will be dry by tomorrow?
I'm not sure if you made it out to either Old Man or Voyeur, but if not, drop me a line. I'd love to head out to either area with you on one of your free days.
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For Voyeur, hike up the High Peaks trail until just before the first tunnel. Just before the tunnel the crag is on the left, there will be an oak tree in the middle of the trail and the Sew What Needles will be off to your right. For the full tour, ping Gavin : )
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I added four more routes to the list today:
- 196.8 Hard Knocks 5.8
- 325.213 Mud Bath 5.8 ***
- 388.91 Pow! 5.3
- 388.92 Boom! 5.3
Note that the Russ involved in the first ascent of Hard Knocks is the same Russ who’s new to this site. He and his friend David had extra room in their campsite the night before this climb and shared that room with me. One comment led to another and before long they were both sucked into joining a morning of first ascent foolishness on Pinnacles rock (thanks for joining in guys).
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Thanks for posting.
Well the mystery has been solved for me. I thought maybe you guys finished your project elsewhere.
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 370.41 Falsetto Slab 5.2 *
- 370.47 Foolish Pleasure 5.1
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I added the following routes to the list today:
- 302.21 Excursion Time Continuum 5.4
- 325.212 Pay Dirt 5.7 ***
- 388.33 Square Meal 5.8
- 417.1 Clinker 5.10b R *
- 410.28 The Peep Hole 5.6
- 468.2 Dreaming of Sunshine 5.11b A0
- 468.3 Jeepers 5.11b
- 370.41 False Alarm 5.4
- 370.43 Pity the Fool 5.2
- 370.47 Foolish Pleasure 5.3 *
- 370.48 Monkey Business 5.3
- 370.55 Balance Beam Class Three
And that, as they say, is probably it for additions to this list until next November.
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I added the following 15 routes to the list today:
- 5.1 B.A.P. Trap 5.6
- 12.72 Out of Mind 5.6 *
- 12.73 Out of Sight 5.6 *
- 12.75 Camouflage Corner 5.5
- 13.3 Gopher It 5.11b *
- 13.83 Dumpster - Left Chimney 5.3 R
- 13.84 Dumpster - Center Chimney 5.7 R
- 364.92 Bare Bones 5.1
- 364.94 Johnnycake 5.0
- 364.96 Two Bits 5.3
- 352.33 Fixtures 5.6 *
- 325.55 The Walking Mud Class Four
- 325.34 It’s 4:20 Dude 5.5 *
- 325.31 Hollywood Stars 5.7 R
- 325.32 Access Hollywood 5.0
I also made the following modifications:
The route previously named Dumpster was renamed Dumpster - Right Chimney (self explanatory). The routes in The Outback were reworded (since Fixtures is the first route that appears on this list now), and what was The Central Outback - North Summit is renamed West Summit. Finally the Primrose Pinnacles description was reworded slightly.
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The new phone book is here...the new phone book is here...I'm somebody! :lol:
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The new phone book is here...the new phone book is here...I'm somebody! :lol:
Nice.
I can modify this quote a little for today's Young family news:
"The new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here, the new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here... Tricia is somebody!"
Now don't that make you feel old?
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Public shout out too to J.C. He reads all the new entries looking for inconsistencies and errors. Behind the scenes he's helping to make this list better. A lot.
Thanks John!
(And BTW, I can post a photo of my poison oak patch if you want to see it. It's almost the size of a quarter and if I scratch it hard it would show....)
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Nice.
I can modify this quote a little for today's Young family news:
"The new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here, the new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here... Tricia is somebody!"
Now don't that make you feel old?
Congrats T!
I knew her when...
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Nice.
I can modify this quote a little for today's Young family news:
"The new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here, the new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here... Tricia is somebody!"
Now don't that make you feel old?
WOW! congrats
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He hates these cans!
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Public shout out too to J.C. He reads all the new entries looking for inconsistencies and errors. Behind the scenes he's helping to make this list better. A lot.
Thanks John!
(And BTW, I can post a photo of my poison oak patch if you want to see it. It's almost the size of a quarter and if I scratch it hard it would show....)
No problem dude.
I just finished my walkabout in the Outback and it looks good.
I did however develop a bad case of motion sickness from all the lumps, bumps and summits :lol:
There is no mention of PO but that goes without saying...
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Nice.
I can modify this quote a little for today's Young family news:
"The new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here, the new Learner's Permit/Provisional Driver's License is here... Tricia is somebody!"
Now don't that make you feel old?
I'm an excellent driver...Dad lets me drive slow on the driveway every Saturday...
Please make sure she learns to drive a stick. :thumbup: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
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sticks are dead. Go electric.
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sticks are dead. Go electric.
I's rather be dead than go electric.
Fossil fuels rule - and just for the record they are the most likely source of what is charging most batteries. :yesnod: :lol: :ciappa:
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It'll be the old 2001 stick shift that Katie was driving. But first we'll let her drive the Ford and my new Subaru so that she's got some familiarity with driving in general.
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It'll be the old 2001 stick shift that Katie was driving. But first we'll let her drive the Ford and my new Subaru so that she's got some familiarity with driving in general.
As long as she drives some newly established and found routes.
You may also want to remind her that no route is completely worthless - it can always serve as a bad example :biggrin:
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As long as she drives some newly established and found routes.
You may also want to remind her that no route is completely worthless - it can always serve as a bad example :biggrin:
Nah, I'm supposed to be the good example :P
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Gavin below the crux of Gopher It:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4521/38408117986_51e9c26804_c.jpg)
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I's rather be dead than go electric.
Fossil fuels rule - and just for the record they are the most likely source of what is charging most batteries. :yesnod: :lol: :ciappa:
Currently yes. CA actually had it first hours this year where the majority of the power came from renewables. fossil fuels are so yesterday. Most of the new power going online is renewables. Look forward to when I can afford an electric car. Fossil fuel cars are slow.
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Gavin below the crux of Gopher It:
Looks easy from here :yesnod: :lol: ::)
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Looks like an ankle buster. How is the pro? (I don't mean Gavin)
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Looks like an ankle buster. How is the pro? (I don't mean Gavin)
Josh put one bolt in just above Gavin. We put in two more, fairly closely spaced. The moves getting to bolt two are easy 5.10 and lead to a really good clipping hand-hold. Then the crux starts. On one attempt Gavin fell off the middle of the crux and I was able to keep him off the slab. The third bolt is clipped after grabbing the large finish holds; we put that one in so a fall while doing the awkward moves onto the ending ledge wouldn't break someone from hitting the slab.
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Unsolicited gear recs
I used small gear on Camouflage Corner - aliens, a .5 camalot and a medium stopper.
On BAP Trap I used 4 pieces - .75, 1, 2 and 3 camalot.
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 22.2 Old School 5.7
- 22.4 Mountaineers Route 5.4
It was fun to finally follow-up on Mucci comment about seeing an old fixed pin in the area (thanks Cooks and Cochran!).
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 22.2 Old School 5.7
- 22.4 Mountaineers Route 5.4
It was fun to finally follow-up on Mucci comment about seeing an old fixed pin in the area (thanks Cooks and Cochran!).
The route crux follows (5.4), awkward moves over a low bulge.
You forgot to say the rating is contingent on a butt cheek technique that is not at all obvious and counter intuitive to those of us climbing with any finesse in mind. Pulling the move head on is reachy, awkward, committing and 5.7 or 5.8 :yikes: :lol:
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You forgot to say the rating is contingent on a butt cheek technique that is not at all obvious and counter intuitive to those of us climbing with any finesse in mind.
Hahahahaha.
You know, even though you've raced through the list of Pinnacles routes in so little time, there are some disadvantages to not having been climbing as many overall years as some of us who've had to use our "butt-cheek moves" before.
Pulling the move head on is reachy, awkward, committing and 5.7 or 5.8 :yikes: :lol:
And yet you pulled it off this way....
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Hahahahaha.
You know, even though you've raced through the list of Pinnacles routes in so little time, there are some disadvantages to not having been climbing as many overall years as some of us who've had to use our "butt-cheek moves" before.
Butt you told me it was 5.3 :lol: Maybe I should have realized something was seriously wrong when I bouldered up and down several times trying to unlock it. :idea: I evidently did it bass ackwards :ciappa:
And yet you pulled it off this way....
Yes and I'm still not really sure how hard I made it since I did not have my climbing shoes on.
That probably made it feel a grade harder :crazy: :yesnod: :eeeek:
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OK, I got these three new routes added to the list today:
- 0.23 Rock Bottom 5.6
- 0.25 Tenuous 5.7
- 0.26 Stick It 5.5
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For Stick It I would say chimney and or stem up the slot until you can latch onto the top of the ridge (shoulder) on the right side and shift over - then Stick It. Hard to say what would happen if someone tries to stay in the slot - but that is probably just me overthinking things - which we have seen lately I have a special talent for... :biggrin:
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Josh put one bolt in just above Gavin. We put in two more, fairly closely spaced. The moves getting to bolt two are easy 5.10 and lead to a really good clipping hand-hold. Then the crux starts. On one attempt Gavin fell off the middle of the crux and I was able to keep him off the slab. The third bolt is clipped after grabbing the large finish holds; we put that one in so a fall while doing the awkward moves onto the ending ledge wouldn't break someone from hitting the slab.
Looks fun
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...I would say chimney and or stem up the slot until you can latch onto the top of the ridge (shoulder) on the right side and shift over - then Stick It. Hard to say what would happen if someone tries to stay in the slot
As you've seen, I don't often give information on how to climb a route in its description. I don't in this description either.
Also, the risk of anyone trying to stay in that slot is infinitesimal. To start with, no-one is ever (EVER!!) going to repeat those routes. If (IF!!) any fanatic nut-case did go out there, they, like each of the four of us, will find that there's only one natural way to climb that route. No-one that knows climbing well enough to go there is going to try to stay in the slot.
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^^^
And think about it: if I did give descriptions of "how" to climb routes, your right butt-cheek might still be bruised from the crux on Mountaineers Route.
;D ::)
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As you've seen, I don't often give information on how to climb a route in its description. I don't in this description either.
I guess I am going to have to publish two versions of the guidebook - a Five Fun and a Master Beta Spray edition :idea: :yesnod: :prrr: :ciappa:
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Butt or Balls
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uh, huh, huh huh.... he said master beta.
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Master Beta Spray edition
Will NOT be sold in the visitor center.
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I was considering going ice climbing on Saturday, but the weather conditions for Huntington Lake did not look favorable for good ice. So I went to the Pinnacles instead. I climbed the very nice "Mountaineers' Route". It is amazing that one of the pitons does not have rust on it. I do not think the crux is 5.4. It is very difficult to rate, but I give it somewhere between hard 5.8 and hard 5.9.
I wonder how long it will be before the semi-kitty litter holds on "Rock Bottom" disappear?
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I climbed the very nice "Mountaineers' Route". It is amazing that one of the pitons does not have rust on it. I do not think the crux is 5.4. It is very difficult to rate, but I give it somewhere between hard 5.8 and hard 5.9.
I think that piton has some sort of coating. If I recall correctly, the one on Old School is the same way.
I agree about the crux move. If you do it straight on it is about as hard as I would ever want to do in approach shoes. They told me it was 5.3 and I told them it felt 5.8 the way I did it. I figured it was at least 5.7 since I did not have my climbing shoes on.
The Butt Cheek Technique discussion ensued afterwards.
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I was considering going ice climbing on Saturday, but the weather conditions for Huntington Lake did not look favorable for good ice. So I went to the Pinnacles instead. I climbed the very nice "Mountaineers' Route". It is amazing that one of the pitons does not have rust on it. I do not think the crux is 5.4. It is very difficult to rate, but I give it somewhere between hard 5.8 and hard 5.9.
Although I'm not in the habit of telling people how to climb, there is obviously a very big difference in difficulty on this route, depending on how one does the crux. I changed the route description accordingly.
I wonder how long it will be before the semi-kitty litter holds on "Rock Bottom" disappear?
Answer: a long, long time. No-one else but us and you are crazy enough to climb this.
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BTW, if the word "scootch" isn't descriptive enough, gimme some other suggestions.
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BTW, if the word "scootch" isn't descriptive enough, gimme some other suggestions.
Horizontal or vertical? There are only two kinds of scootch. The other you drink.
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Horizontal or vertical? There are only two kinds of scootch. The other you drink.
Kinda huck up from a semi-lieback until your butt goes up and right onto a shelf of rock. Then re-adjust your feet and stand up. The moving up and then "landing" on the right butt cheek part is the "scootch."
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Horizontal or vertical? There are only two kinds of scootch. The other you drink.
Mmmmmmmm whisky
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Kinda huck up from a semi-lieback until your butt goes up and right onto a shelf of rock. Then re-adjust your feet and stand up. The moving up and then "landing" on the right butt cheek part is the "scootch."
That's a scum. Cheek scum, to be precise. Scootch is more inch wormy. And could even be done in a crouched position.
https://www.bing.com/search?q=define+scooch
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That's a scum. Cheek scum, to be precise. Scootch is more inch wormy. And could even be done in a crouched position.
https://www.bing.com/search?q=define+scooch
I've never pictured a cheek scum as involving an end point where you're sitting on the butt cheek briefly (before re-arranging feet and turning around and up). With the classic cheek, scum, one is still basically vertical, not in a sitting position. See the first part of your attachment: "crouch or squat."
^^^
Oh golly, did I place a comma in the wrong place above?
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Yeah, the butt placement is how I did the climb, but I still think it is harder than 5.4 even with this butt placement move.
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Yeah, the butt placement is how I did the climb, but I still think it is harder than 5.4 even with this butt placement move.
So apparently I am STILL the only one in the group that does not know how to climb AND the description modification was not needed. :nono: :incazzato: :madman: :frown2:
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Although I'm not in the habit of telling people how to climb,
Cough...micro manager...cough
I wonder how long it will be before the semi-kitty litter holds on "Rock Bottom" disappear?
Answer: a long, long time. No-one else but us and you are crazy :crazy: enough to climb this.
He didn't actually say he climbed it and the kitty litter is apparent from the start :lol:
EDIT - sounds like he did climb it and if he rope soloed then I agree... :crazy: :eeeek: :shocked: :yikes:
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you know you are getting old when you need 5.4 beta.
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you know you are getting old when you need 5.4 beta.
Oh, your time is coming young man. Your time is coming....
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Heres my post from a thread Munge started on Supertopo (presumably to getter a wider field of input on the critical question ::) ):
Think of how often, when jamming in a corner, you scum your shoulder against the wall. Then look at the wear on the incredible hand crack, or virtually any crack in a corner in Indian creek.
This actually started as a discussion between Munge and me on Mudn'Crud.
Munge, Jaybro's definition (above) is just what I was talking about (substitute butt-cheek for shoulder though). A "scootch" isn't the same thing.
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Oh, your time is coming young man. Your time is coming....
true about the old part but not for tips on figuring out low 5th class.
also, I have been meaning to ask why do some of the new low fifth class routes have R ratings? what qualifies the R? There are many routes below 5.6 that have little to no pro but do not have a R.
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In the past to get R the route easy pitches had to have no bolts for the entire pitch. I went through the Rubine book and listed out all the R rated routes. I think this has changed and the R is much softer now. That can be said for most climbers as well : )
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Heres my post from a thread Munge started on Supertopo (presumably to getter a wider field of input on the critical question ::) ):
This actually started as a discussion between Munge and me on Mudn'Crud.
Munge, Jaybro's definition (above) is just what I was talking about (substitute butt-cheek for shoulder though). A "scootch" isn't the same thing.
Yes. Sorry for not being explicitly propositional. But that's what the point of my post was about, if I read your response rightly. Scootch is not appropriate for the move. Scum could be, mainly because Scootch/Scooch is already defined in a way that doesn't match the moves described. Are you agreeing with me, or only to the extent that Scootch is not the right word?
More specifically, if the hiney hugging the cheek does is only partial and not an entire resting cheek, then it would be a cheek-scum. There is a chance something could come off in a cheek-scum move. But a full resting ba-dunk-a-dunk, is merely sitting, and therefore cannot be considered a climbing 'move'.
The scum definition is not well defined, but oft used, and in many different ways.
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something could come off in a cheek-scum move.
a full resting ba-dunk-a-dunk
:lol: :thumbup:
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also, I have been meaning to ask why do some of the new low fifth class routes have R ratings? what qualifies the R?
There are many routes below 5.6 that have little to no pro but do not have a R.
I like carrots :yesnod: :biggrin:
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I have been meaning to ask why do some of the new low fifth class routes have R ratings? what qualifies the R? There are many routes below 5.6 that have little to no pro but do not have a R.
I was surprised when climbing with a 5.12 gym climber in the early 00's who would not climb easier Pinnacles routes because of the moderate runouts.
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I am not questioning the difficulty or psychological aspects of the climbs. Mr. Mud somewhat answered my question. Just never seen routes in other guidebooks rated 5.3 R. How would a new climber using the guidebook differentiate between easy 5th class old school routes with the same consequences as the new designated with a R?
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The question seems directed to me (appropriately so).
There certainly isn't any science to the "R" and "X" system (just like there isn't science to the star system either). I think it's impossible to "measure" most climbing dangers with much objectivity (it's kinda like trying to read the future).
Still, I do apply some criteria. Here are the major things I consider (leaving the actual definitions of "R" and "X" to what I already put in the book):
- Not over-using either rating (or else they become meaningless);
- Very, very rarely using either rating where the "dangerous" parts of the climb are more than two grades easier than the crux;
- Decades of experience climbing and decades of experience with Pinnacles specifically, applied with thought route by route;
- Overall perception of the route's danger (using the above);
- Concern for specific dangers (potential for a shorter fall onto a ledge might merit an "R" whereas a longer but "clean" fall might not);
- Thoughts about the quality of the route's protection.
Lastly, as to your question: "How would a new climber using the guidebook differentiate between easy 5th class old school routes with the same consequences as the new designated with a R?"
Theoretically there shouldn't be any difference between old and new, the above criteria should be applied regardless of the route's age. Realistically, if there is more of a tendency to give newer easy routes "danger" ratings it's because I climbed many, many of the older, easier routes before I kept careful notes, and, as one human being, it isn't as possible to field check every aspect of every route as I wish it was.
Finally, as an example, the above paragraph should make it clear why I was really, really eager to get J.C.'s field notes as I started to work on the new edition. He's made high quality notes to many, many of the "easier" routes that I simply don't have the time or energy to go back to. Honestly too, his views on these issues are - to my perception - quite parallel to my own and so I feel like I can heavily trust his comments (kinda like Munge's thoughts regarding fifth class ratings - I've always given great weight to Rob's fifth class ratings since they've always been very, very close to my own and, by definition, in my view, spot on).
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... since they've always been very, very close to my own and, by definition, in my view, spot on).
A preemptive and loving E.S.A.D. for what I know will be coming from Mr Mud next ;)
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Thanks for the insight Brad.
Personally, I like the X in Rubine's book for the easy climbs with no pro and all of the other climbs below 5.6 with pro don't get R. but hey, that's just me and you are writing the guidebook. It's nice to see the reasoning behind the designation.
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Honestly too, his views on these issues are - to my perception - quite parallel to my own and so I feel like I can heavily trust his comments (kinda like Munge's thoughts regarding fifth class ratings - I've always given great weight to Rob's fifth class ratings since they've always been very, very close to my own and, by definition, in my view, spot on).
We could be way off, but at least we're way off the 'correct' rating together. ;) :)
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We could be way off, but at least we're way off the 'correct' rating together. ;) :)
Whatever you do, DON'T let Dennis see you say that ::)
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5.fucked is a bit crude in print but would work instesd of x.
i.e. climbing and then down climbing Maniac's in approach shoes, sans rope.
Ratings were by reference for us, then the ratings changed for many of our reference standards. Portent, Entrance, Fly Bye, Jorgie's Crack, Swallow, H&L Regular route, Once around the Backside and Tilting Terrace. These were our standards for ratings of 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7 and 5.9.
Only Ordeal 5.8 remained the same, even though none of the cruxes on these routes have changed. We may as well go to Mud's two rating system, it's either 5.7 or 5.11.
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Everything I do is 5.8+ because I don't climb harder than that. ;D
mud lives in a parallel universe where ratings are based on the single hardest move, and not the cumulative effect... and then you drop the grade a letter. Really it's pretty understandable, but hard on the ego. ;)
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Two consonants and a vowel you meant.
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I think overall over time there has been grade creep. Pitches keep getting easier even though I keep getting older and softer. The definition of 3rd class is you do not need a rope. Over the years I have done a fair bit of 3rd class. It seems more and more I do easy 5th that is easier than quite a bit of 3rd class I have done. Not just at the Pins but all over the place. Guidebooks are nice cuz you can look at when the route was put up. If it was put up in recent times and it is is easy 5th I will without question solo it. If it was put up 20 to 50 years ago I will always keep in mind how to down climb from where I am at. People need the ego boost to claim a grade or a climb.
Even up here as I start to make lists and go out and explore. Modern easy 5th, no problem. Old Becky 3rd class, that is adventure climbing.
Here's to sweat in your eye
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All this talk about grades makes me glad I don't teach any more.
We talked to a couple guys over the weekend that seemed to have limited experience.
One of them said he led Dos Equis without understanding what the R meant.
He understood afterwards.
Here are some old routes at Pinns (5.3 and below) with R's that have limited pro (gear or sling knobs) or bolts that become useless quickly.
Smiling Simian Easy Route 5.0R
Third Sister Approach NE Gully 5.0R
Fourth Sister North Rib 5.1R
Dwarf Pinnacle 5.2R
Third Sister Approach SW Corner 5.2R
Tiburcio's Ambush 5.2R
Toog's Terror 5.2R
Smokestack Regular Route 5.3R
The Camel South Face 5.3R
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All this talk about grades makes me glad I don't teach any more.
;D
We talked to a couple guys over the weekend that seemed to have limited experience.
One of them said he led Dos Equis without understanding what the R meant.
He understood afterwards.
;D ;)
That was Jeff. He seemed to already be fond of the experience two weeks later.
Here are some old routes at Pinns (5.3 and below) with R's that have limited pro (gear or sling knobs) or bolts that become useless quickly...
No bolt is useless. It can always serve as a bad example.
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I do not see Dos Equis as being R. There just is not anything dangerous about that climb. Does an individual climb above gear? yes. But there is no inherit danger to hitting anything. I think it sets a bad example, do we start to give every route where a person has to climb five feet above a gear placement an R because someone might get a bit scared?
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I do not see Dos Equis as being R. There just is not anything dangerous about that climb. Does an individual climb above gear? yes. But there is no inherit danger to hitting anything. I think it sets a bad example, do we start to give every route where a person has to climb five feet above a gear placement an R because someone might get a bit scared?
No one suggested an R should come after 6' above gear. The R rating is very clearly about a competent leader at the grade would find it run out/hit a ledge. 5.4R leader would be scared on 5.4 moves where the gear is say 10' above last pro. But a 5.10d R leader, competent at 10d, and not 11a, would find that doing 10d 10' past the last bolt is also scary.
Dos Equis at 5.8 is a slab. You will hit something if you fall, namely the lower angle section. It is a fair distance from the last bolt to the anchor and there is a move there. Just because you can do it without being scared, doesn't mean it doesn't deserve an "R" on a piece of paper that one pays the privilege for.
When was the last time you got on it?
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...do we start to give every route where a person has to climb five feet above a gear placement an R because someone might get a bit scared?
Of course not (see the first of the criteria that I listed above).
But smooth and obstacle-free as it would be, it would be possible to take a 50 footer on that climb. Even a completely danger-less 50 foot fall get's an "R" (and there's no such thing as a danger-less fall).
Hey, changing subjects for a minute: Friday is my birthday. Why don't you fly down here and climb Friday and Saturday with me? We'd have to climb at Table Mountain (I think I wanna be home for my birthday this year). But you've always loved climbing at Table Mountain.
You in? ::) ::)
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Hey Munge (and anyone else on here). How about Friday and Saturday? Up here?
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I added two routes to the list just now:
- 383.6 Endless Summer 5.1
- 629.1 See Ya Crater Alligator 5.5 R
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I prefer that when a route is rated R you will be required to do a move at the rating of the climb being run out. Then in the climbing area's guidebook this system is explained in the introduction.
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Hey Munge (and anyone else on here). How about Friday and Saturday? Up here?
Friday on the road, up late at night. I wish I could climb with you. I will still wish you a happy birthday!
Saturday we'll have family over at the Chateau, Mrs. Munge, mom, nephews and their parents. Doing 'xmas' dinner early with the kids. Swing by?
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I prefer that when a route is rated R you will be required to do a move at the rating of the climb being run out. Then in the climbing area's guidebook this system is explained in the introduction.
We should probably split this thread out on its own. But the harder question is when an route has say a competent leader at 10b, but 9 feet of 10a above the last bolt, and one move of 10b at 11 feet. R rated?
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We should probably split this thread out on its own...
Feel free. Or not. As a suggested title use: "How Many Angels Can Dance on the Head of a Pin?"
As the most beautiful woman in the world would say (intentionally mixing metaphors): "it's not rocket surgery."
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"The question 'how many angels can dance on the head of a pin?' (alternatively 'how many angels can stand on the point of a pin?') is a reductio ad absurdum of medieval scholasticism in general, and its angelology in particular, as represented by figures such as Duns Scotus and Thomas Aquinas. It is first recorded in the 17th century, in the context of Protestant apologetics. The question has also been linked to the fall of Constantinople, with the imagery of scholars debating about minutiae while the Turks besieged the city.
In modern usage, it therefore has been used as a metaphor for wasting time debating topics of no practical value, or questions whose answers hold no intellectual consequence, while more urgent concerns pile up."
;D ;)
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this is thread drift for sure! Entertaining and thoughtful. Also the mail server is about to fall over from all the "instant" notifications on updates.
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I like carrots!!!!
;D
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No one suggested an R should come after 6' above gear. The R rating is very clearly about a competent leader at the grade would find it run out/hit a ledge. 5.4R leader would be scared on 5.4 moves where the gear is say 10' above last pro. But a 5.10d R leader, competent at 10d, and not 11a, would find that doing 10d 10' past the last bolt is also scary.
Dos Equis at 5.8 is a slab. You will hit something if you fall, namely the lower angle section. It is a fair distance from the last bolt to the anchor and there is a move there. Just because you can do it without being scared, doesn't mean it doesn't deserve an "R" on a piece of paper that one pays the privilege for.
When was the last time you got on it?
I have not done it for a while but I do remember the first time I did it the route seemed a bit heady. I have lead it several times, never thought there was a potential to hit anything.
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We should probably split this thread out on its own. But the harder question is when an route has say a competent leader at 10b, but 9 feet of 10a above the last bolt, and one move of 10b at 11 feet. R rated?
no, 10 feet ( 3 meters ) does not equate to R.
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no, 10 feet ( 3 meters ) does not equate to R.
Everyone knows thats a solo.... ::) Agreed, not an R although at the Pinns it might feel like it. If for the rock quality.
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I should be clear too regarding my above posts.
I'm not trying to be too flip, not trying to imply that "danger" ratings don't matter. They've become normal in guidebooks and they can play an important role. I take these ratings very seriously and, as with all aspects of the book, I apply a lot of thought and effort to them.
Rather, the point I was trying to make is that I don't find talking about them in the abstract particularly enlightening. Now, not finding the conversation enlightening, I suppose I could have just kept quiet instead of making those last two posts. Yeah, I definitely could have ::)
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Rather, the point I was trying to make is that I don't find talking about them in the abstract particularly enlightening.
I thought the point was to try to flex your intellectual prowess.
But the harder question is when an route has say a competent leader at 10b, but 9 feet of 10a above the last bolt, and one move of 10b at 11 feet. R rated?
yeah that is not R. Was that meant to be some kind of lame trick question?
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Last time I split a topic I screwed it up and didn't know how to undo it.
Mr Mud needs to take the helm...
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Standard ratings may involve fractures. R means compound fractures and possible heli ride to a trauma unit, but survivable with modern medicine and a partner who knows basic first aid. X, you call the coroner not SAR.
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yeah that is not R. Was that meant to be some kind of lame trick question?
Neither lame, nor trick. The greater the distance fallen, the more force that applies to your ankles...
Imagine doing that off the belay. That's a factor 2 fall.
http://wallrat.com/PDF_Files/forcesinleadfalls.pdf
At that distance you can definitely snap bone even in a "clean" fall. So how is that not 'R'?
Overhanging terrain would be different since the likelihood of hitting anything is minimized.
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It is much easier if you state your point of view in short concise sentences rather than to try to get me to say it.
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Here are some old routes at Pinns (5.3 and below) with R's that have limited pro (gear or sling knobs) or bolts that become useless quickly.
Smiling Simian Easy Route 5.0R
Third Sister Approach NE Gully 5.0R
Fourth Sister North Rib 5.1R
Dwarf Pinnacle 5.2R
Third Sister Approach SW Corner 5.2R
Tiburcio's Ambush 5.2R
Toog's Terror 5.2R
Smokestack Regular Route 5.3R
The Camel South Face 5.3R
Now that I am home I see that these and others have R ratings in the 2007 guide. Never noticed that. My first guidebook for Pinnacles was the Rubine guide. Never consulted Brad's for that info.
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Use a tape measure. Bolt every 6-8 feet.
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there are people arguing for that. I seen no need to split. There is one given on this forum, thread drift, always.
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I see the need for a banana split.
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I see the need for a banana split.
Step away from the DQ!
Tokyo Drift is okay - thread drift is inexcusable and should be a flogging offense - whips and chains and hand grenades :yesnod:
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Use a tape measure. Bolt every 6-8 feet.
I just blew my Christmas wad on bolts and I plan to do just that - no more 5.3R's :nonod: :frown2: :out: :prrr: :ciappa:
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save the bolts for stuff 5.6 and up.
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save the bolts for stuff 5.6 and up.
Nah...I'll run those out :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
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I added three routes to the list today (I've gotten behind in keeping this current, which irritates me - but between real work and a ridiculous amount of time getting guidebook stuff together, edited, and/or cleaned...).
- 235.1 Pleiades 5.9 *
- 352.51 Lonesome Me 5.5 *
- 352.54 Off With Her Hands 5.5
On Pleiades, I had thought either 5.8 or 5.9 when I did the first lead. Assuming that I was affected by residual dust from brushing holds, I originally went with the easier/more conservative rating, 5.8.
Brian's lead of it convinced me otherwise. He hesitated while figuring out the crux, just like I did. His comment while leading was icing on the cake. He said, after getting onto easier ground: "It felt 5.9. But if I channel my inner Dennis, I might be able to call it 5.8."
He thought it very comparable to both The Long and the Short of It and Thrill Hammer in difficulty and quality. So 5.9 seems right.
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Isn't Thrill Hammer 5.7?
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I added three routes to the list today
- 352.51 Lonesome Me 5.5 *
Never figured you for a Neil Young fan... :idea:
I added three routes to the list today
- 352.54 Off With Her Hands 5.5
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4700/39709960681_8ac52a93c6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23v2VQv)
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Never figured you for a Neil Young fan...
Brad and I listened to Neil Young the whole way to Pinns from Santa Cruz on Saturday.
....and there's my first post ;D
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Love Neil Young.
"Off With Her Hands" was a name I'd wanted to use for a long time. Katie thought of it as a Pinnacles-specific route name.
Funny that you just happened to have the perfect photo to go with it....
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0.8 East Ridge Rock 5.5 A1 Got added to the list today.
This is one route that I just don't think will go free. The upper part might, with an all-out thrutching, beached whale type move. I wasn't willing to do that roped solo (and above a failed bolt - see explanation below). But the bottom eight or so feet are quite vertical and the rock is very scaley. Nothing I could reach (nor Brian when he was there with me earlier) would stay attached.
Now that the bolts are in though, who knows? Not that anyone would walk the 25 minutes up there to try it (no-one with any damn sense would anyway).
I had my first failed "new-style" Powers five-piece bolt on this too. I'd filed the cone down some as recommended by our resident expert on the mechanics of bolts (it's worked like a charm before - this one was probably not filed down enough though). I'm now five out of six on success for these new (and un-improved) bolts.
All in all a very, very physical two days. Not only did I have to go back on day two (to finish the anchor and replace the failed bolt), I scrambled all over the south part of Bear Gulch, rope-soloed The Direct Route on The Monolith, and then rapped/jugged all over the north and west faces to check bolt counts and adjust topos. Damn I'm old.
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This is where I put East Ridge Rock navigating with your approach directions on Google Earth.
Is this right?
You can see parking and the water tank toward the top of the picture and the photo is oriented correctly in terms of compass directions.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4713/26040670268_3c9f20984d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FF8f2A)
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This is where I put East Ridge Rock navigating with your approach directions on Google Earth.
Is this right?
You can see parking and the water tank toward the top of the picture and the photo is oriented correctly in terms of compass directions.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4713/26040670268_3c9f20984d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FF8f2A)
Yes, East Ridge Rock is circled in your photo.
It's weird though looking at that aerial shot: It makes it look like it would be an easy, mostly brush-free approach from the lower part of Marmot Wall. That's definitely not what Brian and I experienced. We went out the way I described in my directions and were quite surprised at how little brush we had to navigate ;D
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Speaking of navigation - don't forget to duck when Ellen fires across your bow :incazzato: :madmax: :madman:
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0.8 East Ridge Rock 5.5 A0 Got added to the list today.
This is one route that I just don't think will go free.
Free is when you don't have to pay for nothing or do nothing - we want to be free - free as the wind...
F Zappa 1981...
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 401.5 Back Track 5.4
- 401.6 Hat Trick 5.5
Tricia and I put these climbs up together, and I wanted to post a little about the derivation of the formation name. Tricia plays in the "Orange Crush," Summerville High School's band (the school colors are black and orange). She plays trumpet. She absolutely loves the instrument and loves her peer group.
On occasion, Orange Crush gets fancy. They have and wear full dress uniforms for things like the Homecoming football game. As part of their uniform they wear shakos. A shako is is military-style hat that includes a plume. It has a unique look. Here's a shako on Tricia:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4663/39358893655_d9d658b177_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4758/39358894355_44728dacc2_c.jpg)
Here's a photo of the Pinnacles rock formation "The Shako" (both shots taken from the High Peaks Trail; note also that The Shako is left of The Snout in both photos):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4627/40256523181_56d0d3d396_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4743/40256524311_a27bd4ef6f_c.jpg)
The colors might be different, but I think it is obvious that the basic idea is the same.
She and I had a good day. After I placed the first summit bolt, she came up and helped place the second (and took selfies too while I did my share of drilling):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4760/26384177398_f5060424fd_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4604/26384176688_bff42113e4_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4621/40212224742_1749786795_c.jpg)
The anchor turned out well (well equalized with two very nice bolts):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4678/39545428984_2b05bca7e4_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4761/39545433214_03374c3776_c.jpg)
Neither route is as good quality as I'd hoped. Still, both are relatively long and we reached the top of a pinnacle that had (to all appearances) never been reached. But the best part was having a great day with this tough and fun kid (I really, really like her).
And one last shot; me drilling the first lead bolt on Hat Trick:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4709/40212268262_ba480377f2_c.jpg)
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Awesome
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Cool! A day to remember for sure.
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I added another route to the list today:
871.5 Prune Pinnacle - Regular Route 5.2
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Tricia Henry! :)
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I added seven new routes to the list today:
- 259.937 Danger Noodle 5.10b
- 305.62 Tick Talk 5.4
- 305.63 Top Knot 5.3 R
- 305.65 Behemoth 5.7 R
- 305.67 The Glob Class Four
- 305.82 Uncorked 5.8 *
- 305.83 The Flask - Back Side 5.2 R
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Jennifer toproping Behemoth (note that we're each wearing every stitch of clothing we'd brought that day):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4720/39739699844_2012e1d095_c.jpg)
Leading Uncorked:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4761/39739698834_5a4f4a17a7_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4624/39739697704_09a0a2159c_c.jpg)
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I added three routes to the list today:
- 259.12 Trifecta 5.8
- 259.935 Holy Snakebite (Batman) 5.10a *
- 409.5 Pet Rock Syndrome 5.10a *
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I added three routes to the list today:
- 259.12 Trifecta 5.8
- 259.935 Holy Snakebite (Batman) 5.10a *
- 409.5 Pet Rock Syndrome 5.10a *
Sorry but the editor caught a typo on PRS - Neal Elkins
Sounds like a cool route. I will have to check it out when I go back to Pinch or Lynch.
Other descriptions look good but I am curious as a Kat about the origin of the name Fels Rock.
What the hels wrong with me?
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What?
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What?
How in hell did you do that so fast?
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Sorry but the editor caught a typo on PRS - Neal Elkins....
I just went out and told Ellen about this typo. And then I fired her. She may be calling you.
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Sorry but the editor caught a typo on PRS - Neal Elkins....
I can't believe anyone actually reads this shit.
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Sorry but the editor caught a typo on PRS - Neal Elkins
Sounds like a cool route. I will have to check it out when I go back to Pinch or Lynch.
Other descriptions look good but I am curious as a Kat about the origin of the name Fels Rock.
What the hels wrong with me?
Actually, I didn't fire her. It still cracks me up though that she'd never, ever consider climbing and yet she knows what most of our odd and climbing-speciifc phrases mean. She also knows all of you :o
I fixed the typo.
Mud and "Neal" decided that "Fels Rock" sounded better than "The Rock." Their rationale was that "Fels" in German means "rock." They liked the sound of the name and the inobvious double meaning. I checked with my business partner Scott about "fels" (he's quite fluent in German). Technically it has a meaning closer to "cliff" than "rock," but that seems pretty close.
I hope you two are OK with me telling your story?
I changed the name to Fels Rock in the other descriptions of routes in the area. And I changed Shades of Jade to three stars. Shades of Jade has really cleaned up well.
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Tobias placed the second bolt on Up the Buttress. He's from Germany. I think that played into the German name influence. He had only gone climbing a couple(few?)times outdoors and never at Pinnacles. There's a cool photo of him on some thread drilling with a turkey vulture flying behind him.
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Thanks for revealing that origin. I'll be able to sleep tonight.
Fels is also the start of feldspar - a major mineral component of the crud (Kspar gives it the salmon pink color).
I remember the day Tobias was out there. It was the day I had the pleasure of leading Shades.
I can't believe anyone actually reads this shit.
OCD ya know :out: :arf:
I can't believe someone didn't ask me if I wanted a list when I asked what the hels wrong with me. clink may be losing his touch :lol:
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Nah, we just do not have that much time plus no one wants to crash the forum (that is a lot of volume)
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OCD ya know :out: :arf:
Never heard of it....
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My favorite typo is Caleb Rightmyer as Rightbottom on Curvature.
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I added five routes to the list today:
- 298.3 The Overlook Class Four *
- 300.5 North Goal Post - Shortcut 5.6
- 305.66 Goliath 5.6 *
- 305.69 Quadruple Decker 5.8 *
- 417.9 The Barge 5.1
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I added these three routes to the list today:
- 305.5 Young and Single 5.6 R
- 310.8 Hammer in My Heart 5.4 *
- 310.9 Molar 5.3
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I added these three routes to the list today:
- 305.5 Young and Single 5.6 R
- 310.8 Hammer in My Heart 5.4 *
- 310.9 Molar 5.3
Looks tip top - thanks! :biggrin: :thumbup:
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- 305.5 Young and Single 5.6 R
Talk about a wallflower. Prominently Ignored.
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I added the following three new routes to the list just now:
- 305.63 Disposable Income 5.8
- 305.65 Love ‘Em and Leave ‘Em 5.7 *
- 305.66 Things Not Rings 5.3
As can be seen, I also modified the description for Young and Single which is no longer the first route on/near The Bachelor that appears on this list.
I’ve got four more routes to add. I’ll get to these this evening after I pick up Tricia and have dinner (I hope).
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OK, I added these:
- 310.4. Pebbles and Bam Bam 5.8 *
- 310.5 Betty and Barney 5.6 *
- 310.6. Tooth Fairy 5.2 R
- 310.7 Long in the Tooth 5.8 **
I also changed the descriptions slightly for Hammer in My Heart and Molar.
Now I can go pick up Tricia.
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Very nice. I just found a couple of very minor typos (2 that are probably meaningless in the long run/for the book).
On Pebbles and Bam Bam and Long in the Tooth the c in my last name is lower case after "post by"
FA date on Tooth Fairy is shown as 2018 but it's 2017.
Thanks for some excellent descriptions and all the hard work.
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Very nice. I just found a couple of very minor typos (2 that are probably meaningless in the long run/for the book).
On Pebbles and Bam Bam and Long in the Tooth the c in my last name is lower case after "post by"
FA date on Tooth Fairy is shown as 2018 but it's 2017.
I have no idea what you're talking about....
::) ::)
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^^^
By the way, the original description for Long in the Tooth did not include the words "on nice rock" within the parentheses after the 5.8 rating (although the statement is completely true, it seemed unneeded).
But try typing 5.8 within parentheses and getting it to post on this site (or other sites too).
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When is the new guide coming out?
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I added one route to the list today:
- 627.8 Dollar a Day and Found 5.0 R
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I added one route to the list today:
- 627.8 Dollar a Day and Found 5.0 R
Reads nice. I especially liked the use of the word scruffy.
Take some bacon and beans or hard tack to gnaw on while you watch for the posse.
Also a good spot for a picnic and a nap :biggrin:
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For "Dollar A Day And Found", you might want to clarify that staying west of the formation when hiking up means staying to the right of the formation. I did a massive bush thrash to the left thinking that left was more west. On descent I found the easier way. The existing top bolt is interesting since it faces down face below, i.e., obviously pre-dated this new climb. It looks like someone gave up on the second bolt hole at the top due to cratering (never had that happen to me :o).
I highly recommend "Prune Pinnacle - Regular Route" to anyone who is a true Pinnacles afficendo. Don't worry, the rock crumbles in areas that are easy climbing - just do not pull too hard. ;D And if the rock breaks, you are not going for too much of a ride. Plus, you will be the star in many hikers' cellphone pictures. "Look, Mom, there's a climber".
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For "Dollar A Day And Found", you might want to clarify that staying west of the formation when hiking up means staying to the right of the formation.
I did a massive bush thrash to the left thinking that left was more west. On descent I found the easier way. The existing top bolt is interesting since it faces down face below, i.e., obviously pre-dated this new climb. It looks like someone gave up on the second bolt hole at the top due to cratering (never had that happen to me :o).
If you're reefering to the scruffy pinnacle on the way in, I have gone past both sides without much fuss. There's quite a bit of weaving to stay in the clear areas. You can also start up there from the left side of Big Bad West. I scrambled all the way up the slabs above Passion Play Wall one day to get up there too.
Yes - I was surprised to find that newish bolt pointing in that direction and not in very good rock. It also was not very tight.
I highly recommend "Prune Pinnacle - Regular Route" to anyone who is a true Pinnacles afficendo. Don't worry, the rock crumbles in areas that are easy climbing - just do not pull too hard. ;D And if the rock breaks, you are not going for too much of a ride. Plus, you will be the star in many hikers' cellphone pictures. "Look, Mom, there's a climber".
Funny dude. Kat was eavesdropping on many a hiker when we went back up there. We did Brittle Palace on Friday and I would definitely recommend Prune Pinnacle over that one. Much easier to get to and more fun. Stay regular my friend :lol:
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Ok, now I understand you are supposed to stay west of the scruffy formation, not west of the Robber's Roost formation. If you go west of Robber's Roost, you are definitely in for a bush thrash.
Actually, I thought Prune Pinnacle was an excellent climb. I noticed that the entire arête just beyond the third bolt is hollow, so I rode the arête like a horse. I will have to check out some of the other climbs in this area as this section is one of the few areas of Pinnacles that I have not done much climbs there.
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Ok, now I understand you are supposed to stay west of the scruffy formation, not west of the Robber's Roost formation. If you go west of Robber's Roost, you are definitely in for a bush thrash.
Actually, I thought Prune Pinnacle was an excellent climb. I noticed that the entire arête just beyond the third bolt is hollow, so I rode the arête like a horse. I will have to check out some of the other climbs in this area as this section is one of the few areas of Pinnacles that I have not done much climbs there.
There are quite a few what the park calls "social" trails that head up that way and it is easy to take a wrong turn when weaving through all that brush.
I hear ya about the ridge on Prune. The spot where we located the anchor was one of the few spots that tested okay for drilling - I was starting to wonder if I was going to find anything good. That patch is quite hard and I thought the rappel was fun and nice to drop back to the start - minus that big, scary, rope-snagging flake to the right as you slide down.
Ride 'em cowboy! :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
Tombstone, Monument, Crumbling Castle are fun if you haven't done them. There's a nice replacement anchor waiting on Brittle Palace too. Cave Pinnacle is scary to touch the actual summit and then downclimb. A lot of the stuff higher up the trail is cool too but much of it is sensitive for a few more months. :arf:
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Climberdude, you should climb the crack/corner and on up to the rappel anchors on Prune.
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Climberdude, you should climb the crack/corner and on up to the rappel anchors on Prune.
Fletcher - you should drop a big rock on clink next time you see him :yesnod: :yikes: :lol:
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:)
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Climberdude, you should climb the crack/corner and on up to the rappel anchors on Prune.
Suggested name - Rock Shower :yikes: :yesnod: :eeeek:
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Good one ;D
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 322.141 Endeavor to Persevere 5.7 *
- 322.142 Whistlin’ Dixie 5.7 *
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Looks good.
Reach a group of four spire-like boulders (the tallest is 20 feet high on its downhill side).
These are the Crocodile snouts :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :idea:
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322.141 Endeavor to Persevere 5.7 *
Good route for ample climbers. :)
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322.141 Endeavor to Persevere 5.7 *
Good route for ample climbers. :)
You ain't just whistlin' dixie :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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You ain't just whistlin' dixie :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
No shit. You should have seen the feast tonight!
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No shit. You should have seen the feast tonight!
Push the plate away dude :lol:
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Romain saiad with avocado. New York steak and spicy barbecue marinated chicken from the Corralitos market. Sweet white corn on the cob. Baked russet potatoes. Gayle's bakery sourdough and Alexander Valley red.
Once in a great while feast. Rachel had eggs instead.?
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Romaine salad with avocado. New York steak and spicy barbecue marinated chicken from the Corralitos market. Sweet white corn on the cob. Baked russet potatoes. Gayle's bakery sourdough and Alexander Valley red. Once in a great while feast.
Yum Yum
Rachel had eggs instead?
What a chicken!
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I will be checking out the new routes on Crocodile Crag tomorrow. They look good. Is one of these the route where you pulled out the half-drilled bolts from an abandoned route?
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Is one of these the route where you pulled out the half-drilled bolts from an abandoned route?
Yes. The abandoned route's two bolts were at about the same positions as the second and fourth bolts of Whistling' Dixie. Their second bolt had an ancient lower-off sling on it.
Notice anything familiar looking about their abandoned bolts?
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I will be checking out the new routes on Crocodile Crag tomorrow. They look good.
Saw the dude out on the routes today (from The Overlook).
Looked like he was having fun.
It also looked like he was contemplating Old Route - did you do it dude?
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Saw the dude out on the routes today (from The Overlook).
Looked like he was having fun.
It also looked like he was contemplating Old Route - did you do it dude?
Hey, did you do The Overlook?!
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Nice find on "Whistlin' Dixie" and I also really liked "Endeavor To Persevere". Both of these are really quality climbs. I just looked at "Old School", but will do it another day. How did you like "The Overlook"? I did that climb last Saturday and really liked it. I also did "North Goal Post - Original Route", which was very scary since I never found the first bolt. Are there really two bolts on this route? I liked "North Goal Post - Shortcut" better since I knew exactly where the single bolt was located.
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I also did "North Goal Post - Original Route", which was very scary since I never found the first bolt. Are there really two bolts on this route? I liked "North Goal Post - Shortcut" better since I knew exactly where the single bolt was located.
If you started Original in the right place you'd come up on the first bolt as the climbing eases, off five feet or so to the right. It's there. When I was revising the route descriptions I was shocked at how far it was from where you'd expect it. But I did find it (the replacement that is).
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Nice find on "Whistlin' Dixie" and I also really liked "Endeavor To Persevere". Both of these are really quality climbs. I just looked at "Old School", but will do it another day. How did you like "The Overlook"? I did that climb last Saturday and really liked it. I also did "North Goal Post - Original Route", which was very scary since I never found the first bolt. Are there really two bolts on this route? I liked "North Goal Post - Shortcut" better since I knew exactly where the single bolt was located.
I did N Goal Post Original on 4-19-15.
From my log:
We started on the weakness that is further uphill but it didn’t feel right to me so we went to the downhill option and I stepped up onto that. Neither one of us could see the first bolt from anywhere. After a few moves Alex let me know that I was out of spotter’s range. I steadied myself, brushed off a few holds and made the moves up the low angle upper part. From there I found the bolt – up and around – so it’s impossible to see from below.
Overlook is cool.
I'd be happy to belay you on Old Route some time.
The dude abides.
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Hey, did you do The Overlook?!
Yes and it was fun. On the way back we climbed down and into/through the tree where the 4th class section is. The ledge starts right there. We also did Chamber of Secrets and N Goal Post Shortcut (the short version). :ihih:
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You might want to modify the approach descriptions for the route "Fixtures". It took me about an hour to find it from Outback Buttress area. While in the winter walking directly down the grassy slope and then through the woods will get you there, in the spring, summer, and fall, the ground in the woods area has lots of poison oak with leaves. It would be better to approach it from the Frog, which is fairly poison oak free or drop down all the way from Outback Buttress to the drainage and then go up to the area. You can also approach as I did once I finally found it by traversing across the grassy hillside through openings in the brush to the western-most edge of Far Outback and proceed up right next to the western-most edge of Far Outback to the top and then walk down slabs, aiming for the end of the slabs where the fence posts are. Then you can rappel in. The Inverted Jug formation is not visible when approaching from Outback Buttress since it is blocked by trees.
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You might want to modify the approach descriptions for the route "Fixtures". It took me about an hour to find it from Outback Buttress area.
I believe the map will show both options.
Welcome to the club.
I know where Outback Buttress is now and already anticipated taking the upper approach to get to Fixtures that you described since Brad told me about the PO.
Were you back out climbing again Sunday?
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Actually the Far Outback isn't on the map at all. The Near and Central Outback are on the map. Here's why.
Since that area was a relative latecomer to climbing at Pinns, I had a choice of putting the parts of The Outback that would fit on the existing map, or redrawing the whole thing and then scanning and cleaning it again (about a 12 to 15 hour process, including cleaning).
It just wasn't worth redoing the whole map.
The written description will be easier to use though with photos. And there will be color photos of the area (at least one, maybe two). The partial map will help, but the photos should seal the deal (as far as finding the place).
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You might want to modify the approach descriptions for the route "Fixtures". It took me about an hour to find it from Outback Buttress area. While in the winter walking directly down the grassy slope and then through the woods will get you there, in the spring, summer, and fall, the ground in the woods area has lots of poison oak with leaves. It would be better to approach it from the Frog, which is fairly poison oak free or drop down all the way from Outback Buttress to the drainage and then go up to the area. You can also approach as I did once I finally found it by traversing across the grassy hillside through openings in the brush to the western-most edge of Far Outback and proceed up right next to the western-most edge of Far Outback to the top and then walk down slabs, aiming for the end of the slabs where the fence posts are. Then you can rappel in. The Inverted Jug formation is not visible when approaching from Outback Buttress since it is blocked by trees.
See the post just above.
It's not that hard to walk around to the east too from the top, if one prefers that to rapping.
Also, I can't just randomly modify it. Do you have any suggested additions, subtractions or edits that would have helped you?
How did you like Fixtures? What story are you coming up with about the two fence posts left there (any story you could invent is as good as those I've been able to invent)?
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Brad, from your description, it seemed like I needed to look for the feature The Inverted Jug from afar to orient where to hike. However, this is not visible if approaching from the Hand option. So, I suggest that you indicate that The Inverted Jug will not be visible if approaching by the Hand option. I am not sure if it is visible from the Frog approach option since I left by that way, but did not look back. In any case, I would make it clear that you need to hike towards the northeastern end of the entire formation.
I did like "Fixtures". The bottom section felt more like G-word (can't mention it on this site) slab climbing (which I also like) and then the middle and upper sections felt more like Pinnacles climbing with knobs and protruding features. When I was looking for the route and was about to give up, once I saw the metal fence posts, I knew exactly where it was. I think some rangers who were assigned to replace posts in the fence were more interested in climbing and forgot about replacing the fence posts. Maybe they free soloed your route and never reported it. :o
JC, I was also climbing on Sunday (got to get in as many new routes as I can for this last weekend before heat closes the season until Fall). I did "Primrose Pinnacle", "Fixtures", "Brown Rice And Boogers", "Tadpole Rock - East Face" (on rope-solo toprope, of course, do you think I am crazy to lead that X route with a single Leeper hanger?), and "The Barge". I liked the view from the top of The Barge. You can look down on the hikers and the entire eastern Pinnacles. Pinnacles climbing is really great now since their are less crowds and I am seeing a much more wildlife (lots of snakes, lizards, and birds). However, this weekend will be the last for me until the Fall.
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...however, this weekend will be the last for me until the Fall.
The "F" word is also a non-no.
Until the Autumn ;) ;D
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I'll work over the description. too.
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In the Fall,
I won't feel so fat.
It will be like floating,
until I ...
:)
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Brad, from your description, it seemed like I needed to look for the feature The Inverted Jug from afar to orient where to hike. However, this is not visible if approaching from the Hand option. So, I suggest that you indicate that The Inverted Jug will not be visible if approaching by the Hand option. I am not sure if it is visible from the Frog approach option since I left by that way, but did not look back. In any case, I would make it clear that you need to hike towards the northeastern end of the entire formation.
I did like "Fixtures". The bottom section felt more like G-word (can't mention it on this site) slab climbing (which I also like) and then the middle and upper sections felt more like Pinnacles climbing with knobs and protruding features. When I was looking for the route and was about to give up, once I saw the metal fence posts, I knew exactly where it was. I think some rangers who were assigned to replace posts in the fence were more interested in climbing and forgot about replacing the fence posts. Maybe they free soloed your route and never reported it. :o
JC, I was also climbing on Sunday (got to get in as many new routes as I can for this last weekend before heat closes the season until Fall). I did "Primrose Pinnacle", "Fixtures", "Brown Rice And Boogers", "Tadpole Rock - East Face" (on rope-solo toprope, of course, do you think I am crazy to lead that X route with a single Leeper hanger?), and "The Barge". I liked the view from the top of The Barge. You can look down on the hikers and the entire eastern Pinnacles. Pinnacles climbing is really great now since their are less crowds and I am seeing a much more wildlife (lots of snakes, lizards, and birds). However, this weekend will be the last for me until the Fall.
I can see Inverted Jug from Rubble Wall. Maybe the approach should be from there :lol:
It should be visible from The Frog too and I thought I might have a pic - but can't find one.
I enjoyed your story about Fixtures.
I really like Primrose Pinnacle.
I could tell you where all the climbers are but like you, I will refrain.
You covered a lot of ground dude.
I keep meaning to get back out to Tadpole and rebolt that route but just haven't gotten to it.
This weekend is looking good.
Can't wait for the biting flies and the heat this year.
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Let me know when you want to go out to replace the bolts on Tadpole Rock - East Face as I would like to help you. Probably one of the two remaining Leeper hangers and Star Drivin bolts at the top should also be replaced to compliment the single newer bolt.
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I added six routes to the list today. All six are at Spike's Peak in the High Peaks. All six are also great examples of why YOU PEOPLE should stop climbing at Pinnacles in the summer, when I can't be there:
- 560.43 Razorback 5.11a ***
- 560.61 Squealer Squeezer 5.4
- 560.63 Pockety Peccary 5.7 *
- 560.64 Swine Flue 5.10a **
- 560.65 Bacon Bits 5.8 **
- 560.67 Dances With Warthogs 5.10a ***
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I discovered a few disturbing problems at Crud and Mud while I was climbing and working out there yesterday.
I thought I could see something on the Bottoms Up summit section single ring anchor from Mud Brother when I was working on that back in June. Unfortunately I was right.
Here is the latest Darwin Award candidate
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1924/30696603707_deed701da3_z.jpg)
Which motivated me to convert the single ring anchor (meant for downclimbing back to the rappel anchor) to this
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1917/30696603687_e9a95a4638_z.jpg)
I replaced the single ring anchor with a regular hanger and screwlink with a 5 link chain and added a half inch sleeve bolt lower with a screwlink and a single link of chain. The anchor is set to rappel back to the lower rappel anchor. I didn't want to do this, since the lower anchor is only about 20 feet down but it gave me the creeps thinking about how people might be using the single ring anchor. It was never intended for rappel.
I have a request in to Brad to modify the current description(below) to reflect the changes.
325.38 Bottoms Up 5.7 * This route climbs to and then past the Shoo Fly Slab two-bolt rappel anchor. Start near the top of the gully between Crud and Mud’s middle and south summits. Two bolts and slung knobs protect climbing up and left and then up to the notch and the rappel anchor. Continue past this to the summit above. A single ring-anchor style bolt there allows a belayed downclimb back to the rappel anchor.
The other thing I noticed is that people have been using the rappel anchor for Just Chute Me and the Class 4 Route incorrectly. One of the hangers was turned toward Ashes the Mud and I and the bolt had been worked loose. The chains and hangers are not set in that direction and the chain lengths will not equalize that way. I returned the hangers to their proper orientation and tightened the bolt. As a result, I will be placing a separate anchor to service Ashes the Mud and I soon, so that this does not continue to happen. I think Ashes the Mud and I will see a lot of traffic in the coming years. I climbed it again yesterday and it always puts a smile on my face.
Here is another shot folks might find interesting. From the staging area at Ashes the Mud and I, I could see the drill dust from my work replacing the only lead bolt on the Tadpole's 5.7X route during the PCAD weekend.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1917/30696603437_ff8d5e8d9d_z.jpg)
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Damn dude, are you just trying to drag me into Pinnacles season or what? It's so gorgeous up here that it's hard to justify coming down there. I guess I'm going to have to soon though (the best option is if it would turn to winter, or at least winter-like conditions so that the decision would be easy).
Got a bunch of old rusty bolts removed at Herring Creek Dome today. Nice half inch stainless replacements. And I was in shorts most of the day.
I'll likely call you tomorrow for help with modifying the description (I just got home from up the hill).
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Damn dude, are you just trying to drag me into Pinnacles season or what?
Got a bunch of old rusty bolts removed at Herring Creek Dome today. Nice half inch stainless replacements. And I was in shorts most of the day.
I'll likely call you tomorrow for help with modifying the description (I just got home from up the hill).
Nice job on the rebolting.
Sorry Bubba. You can blame Cochran (not really). He can barely get off the ground these days :lol: :devildevil:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that we were actually cold yesterday up on the Crud. It was a high of 70 at 2:30 and up until then it was cool, overcast and WINDY. I was actually shivering in a t shirt and long pants. Looks like it only hit 72 today - another missed opportunity for some mud creeeepin. We were ready to come home after 4 days out (out of food and booze) and you know what picky eaters and drinkers we are :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin: :lol:
Dang! I really wanted to hit Casper and Halloweenie tomorrow but Kat is spending the day with baby raisin snail (aka beanita)
Taking some kids out Thursday with Mike from the gym (group from Rancho Cielo) as part of our ongoing PCAD mission.
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I placed a separate, dedicated anchor at the top of Ashes the Mud and I yesterday after discovering that people had been rappelling off the back side anchor in the wrong direction presumably to avoid the walkoff and/or repeating the approach back up the gully. One of the ASCA bolts I placed and torqued to replace the old anchor on the formation had been loosened by someone turning the chains toward Ashes - a 90 degree rotation from the equalized setup. That anchor services the routes Just Chute Me and the East Side and was never meant to be used in the direction I found it. I re-torqued the loose bolt after re-situating the hanger and the chain back to their proper orientation. We did not have a full rope to rappel off the new anchor, so I don't have a length yet (it is probably around 90 feet).
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Loosened or just rotated through force? Seen it happen. Loctite fixes all evils.
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Loosened or just rotated through force? Seen it happen. Loctite fixes all evils.
Thanks for the suggestion but a dedicated anchor was the best choice here. Now someone climbing the crag can make the approach up the gully and do as many as 6 routes from the staging area at the top.
The bolt and hanger were rotated through force.
All the weight would have been on that bolt since the party was rappelling in a direction never intended for that anchor.
On Pinnacles rock a single act such as this can grind away the surface and leave a tight bolt with a loose hanger (this wasn't the case in this particular instance).
I can think of quite a few sleeve bolts I've inspected where the bolt is tight and can't be tightened further but the hanger is loose.
I've never tried to loctite sleeve bolts.
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...the bolt and hanger were rotated through force.
All the weight would have been on that bolt since the party was rappelling in a direction never intended for that anchor.
I'd add to the above that all of the weight of the "wrong-direction" rappel was pulling on one hanger at a 90 degree angle. I can't imagine any type of tightening, or Loctite, or even glue or resin that would have kept the hanger in place against that unanticipated type of force.
We both felt that it was odd that someone would rap in that direction (and the rope pull they must have made afterward looked horrific). But such a rap would then put them at the base of the route (instead of having to make a rap off the other side and then spend seven minutes walking back to that same spot). Odd, but then again, trying to anticipate lazy and dumb has always been hard (sincere apologies to the unknown climbers who I just called lazy and dumb, but, if the shoe fits, etc...).
And the Loctite company's own motto? I used to have a tee-shirt from them that said: "Use Loctite or kiss your nuts goodbye."
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I added six new routes to the list today:
- 322.46 Sod Buster 5.2
- 325.37 Mud, Sweat and Veers 5.0
- 325.39 Pie in the Sky Class Four
- 325.52 Mud Brother 5.7 **
- 352.51 Didgeridoo 5.3
- 382.1 O Brother Where Art Thou 5.6
I also changed the description for the route Ashes the Mud and I (“Ashes”) which is on the formation Crud and Mud. Ashes joins with another route called Crud and Mud - East Face and the Ashes description now clarifies that the description of East Face is wrong in the 2007 guidebook (and the revision provides a link to the correction of that East Face description on this forum’s “Corrections” thread).
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Looks excellent.
Now on to the next Pie in the Sky route :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :lol:
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The two bolts on "Didgeridoo" are not visible from below and the first bolt is not visible until very close to it. A climber who wants to make this safe might want to sling a knob deep within the gully before getting to the first bolt and clip the top anchor before moving onto the top. There are loose holds before getting to the first bolt, which is quite a ways up. I wonder why you did not sling the very obvious (most over-used route description word) spike.
JC, nice find on "Pie In The Sky" that did not need any drilling. FYI, "Mud, Sweat, and Veers" is not 5.0 when done the day after several days of rain. Even worse, I made the mistake of doing it free solo in its extremely slippery condition. I suggest waiting several days of warm weather after rain to do this gully climb, which is a water course.
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The two bolts on "Didgeridoo" are not visible from below and the first bolt is not visible until very close to it. A climber who wants to make this safe might want to sling a knob deep within the gully before getting to the first bolt and clip the top anchor before moving onto the top. There are loose holds before getting to the first bolt, which is quite a ways up. I wonder why you did not sling the very obvious (most over-used route description word) spike.
Sounds like you are back in Pinnacles climbing mode! Nice.
J.C. did the first lead of this and may answer for himself. Meanwhile I could use a break from Photoshop tedium (cleaning a map). He definitely slung a nice knob before the first bolt. We both inspected the spike (looks like a cartoon character's nose) and did not like the fracture behind it's right side.
Notice that I used the phrase "unmistakably-shaped" instead of "obvious?" It is an overused word.
JC, nice find on "Pie In The Sky" that did not need any drilling. FYI, "Mud, Sweat, and Veers" is not 5.0 when done the day after several days of rain. Even worse, I made the mistake of doing it free solo in its extremely slippery condition. I suggest waiting several days of warm weather after rain to do this gully climb, which is a water course.
OMFG, I can't believe you tried Mud, Sweat and Veers right after a rain!? I think I would have been terrified!
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The two bolts on "Didgeridoo" are not visible from below and the first bolt is not visible until very close to it.
JC, nice find on "Pie In The Sky" that did not need any drilling.
I was going to climb through without putting any bolts on the route. They forced me to do it.
The initial lead was done without the second bolt.
I had been looking at Pie in the Sky every time I was in that notch. It had to be done.
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Pie in the Sky
That is a good Pizza joint right down the road.
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That is a good Pizza joint right down the road.
I'm sure the pizza is vastly superior to the route :biggrin:
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I updated/finalized the description for Full Circle just now. I'll try to finish the updated topo and at least post a PDF of it too.
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Nice, Brad. It's good to finally see a description of the completed route... I think the result was well worth our efforts, including our placement of rappel anchors so that folks can climb many of the central wall routes and then rappel back to the ground with just a single rope.
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I updated/finalized the description for Full Circle just now
You guys finished it?! How did it go?
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It went well. I hiked out on Sunday and set up a fixed line at the top of the second pitch, and on Monday we used ascenders to quickly jug up to the second pitch anchor. Brad's back was giving him some grief and I was eager to lead, so I pushed up past our first 3 bolts on the third pitch and placed the last 3 bolts. We had enough time for Brad to lower me, and then I redpointed the third pitch for the FFA (after a missed attempt where a couple of large hand- and footholds gave way and I took a decent fall...luckily the rockfall *mostly* missed Brad!)
The third pitch can still use some scrubbing and brushing, but altogether the three pitches of Full Circle are quite fun and sustained. I think its a solid addition to the central wall climbs at Balconies.
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Mostly missed me. I got hit by some specks and clods. The cantaloupe size piece that pulled off (causing Gavin to fall) was right of him and fell four feet right of me. I was happy that that one missed by a lot.
Pretty routine stuff.
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I'm just back to the office after being in court all day. Still working on the Ribbit and Croak description. I'll try to get that up this weekend. And it's true, my description will likely provide less detail than did J.C.'s.
Although he thought no stars, I'm still debating it. Almost 200 feet of climbing, much of it on pretty good rock. I've settled in at "3/4 of a star." Probably should just round down and leave it to speak for itself?
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I'm just back to the office after being in court all day. Still working on the Ribbit and Croak description. I'll try to get that up this weekend. And it's true, my description will likely provide less detail than did J.C.'s.
Although he thought no stars, I'm still debating it. Almost 200 feet of climbing, much of it on pretty good rock. I've settled in at "3/4 of a star." Probably should just round down and leave it to speak for itself?
I'd like to make the Brown Rice and Boogers argument for the defense. Three quarters definitely rounds up - plus it will confuse the he!! out of people that go climb it. TSAL - now there is one for the ages :yesnod: :lol:
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OK then, I'll give it a star. I liked it and I know that Bob did too. It's an inventive line, and long. Once the section of loose stuff cleans up, I think newer leaders will find it fun, and a good introduction to keeping one's head together on traverses.
And what is "TSAL?"
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And what is "TSAL?"
In this context, my guess would be something to do with "You can fool some of the people all of the time".
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I made changes to the Full Circle description just now.
It got its first full, onsight ascent yesterday. I gave Joe (not "D," this Joe is not on this site that I know of) a copy of the topo, but with the ratings removed.
He and his wife thought the pitches were 5.9+, 5.10b, and 5.9+. He thought three stars for sure. Gavin and I trust our ratings pretty well (Joe's very strong and has climbed almost all of the multi-pitch Balconies routes with seemingly little effort). Note also that Gavin's friend Janice (listed as part of the FA) thought that the first pitch was "three-star" worthy.
Based on the above, I changed the first pitch rating to 5.10b (even Jim McCon. had given it that). And there's no way I could ever go with three stars, so I bumped it to two.
We'll see how any of this changes (if at all) by the time I get to documenting the West Side for the guidebook.
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Thanks for the revisions, Brad... As we talked about on email, I think the route rating and pitch grades are pretty accurate now, but I'll be climbing the full route again on Christmas Eve with Janice (barring another storm front) and will reply with any extra thoughts we have on the subject.
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We saw a party on the route (Full Circle) yesterday while climbing at Chockstone. I could hear the leader talking about how much fun the second pitch was - evidently there are lots of holes and cool holds. I was hoping to get to talk to them but it didn't happen.
We ended the day with a run up Self Selecting Substrate - it was REALLY good to see beano back on the sharp end again.
I found something interesting on the route. Two of the upper lead bolts had hangers that were moving. It was the typical surface disintegration that is so common at Pinns. Unreal how quickly that can happen - this route is only a few years old and probably has not seen that many ascents. Both sleeve bolts were tight (I checked with my OCD wrench) - so the only way to correct it would be to add washers to take up the space. One could use this as evidence to argue the use of wedge bolts at Pinns - preferably the long double wedges Fixe manufactures - and also as an argument against the use of loctite on Pinns bolts. Jeeeeez - can of worms much? Why can't things just be easy!
I mainly bring this up because we were just out at The Citadel and there are multiple lead bolts on Costanoan suffering from this same condition, as well as other popular climbs with bolts in similar shape - Bits and Pieces on The Flumes for instance.
I also noticed all the bolts on Costanoan are mixed metals - carbon bolts with stainless hangers - causing the washer and or the bolt head to develop light surface rust. Little Javelina is the same way. One way to "cure" this would be to swap the hangers - put carbon steel hangers on these carbon steel bolts. OMG - there goes my OCD again...maybe I should just swing it :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol: :out: :guitar: :ciappa:
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It was the typical surface disintegration that is so common at Pinns. Unreal how quickly that can happen - this route is only a few years old and probably has not seen that many ascents. Both sleeve bolts were tight (I checked with my OCD wrench) - so the only way to correct it would be to add washers to take up the space.
Several of the older routes at Table Mountain (also sleeve bolts) have the same problem: loose hangers.
I've had fairly good luck with this problem by loosening the bolt, re-driving it with a few hammer hits, and then re-tightening it. It works more than half the time.
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Several of the older routes at Table Mountain (also sleeve bolts) have the same problem: loose hangers.
I've had fairly good luck with this problem by loosening the bolt, re-driving it with a few hammer hits, and then re-tightening it. It works more than half the time.
Thanks for the suggestion Brad. That could work if the hole was overdrilled when the bolt was placed. I always overdrill my bolts (OCD) - but I'm a bit uncomfortable banging on bolts that have been there any significant amount of time - especially since there is no way to tell if they were not overdrilled - you could damage or stress the assembly if it bottoms out. I've also had a few older carbon steel sleeve bolts snap while trying to loosen them. Tricky business.
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It is tricky.
I think all of us over drill our holes at Pinns. At least a little (I think all the bolts I've done that to up here were drilled mechanically and are always well over drilled).
The question is: "is it enough of an over drill?" I think it's always worth trying to tighten stuff (it only takes a few light hammer taps after the bolt is loosened).
Although maybe the bigger question is: "who has a hammer with them when they come upon a loose bolt in the field?"
EDIT: When I've used this method it's almost always during a return trip to an area where I've noticed loose bolts.
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The question is: "is it enough of an over drill?" I think it's always worth trying to tighten stuff (it only takes a few light hammer taps after the bolt is loosened).
Although maybe the bigger question is: "who has a hammer with them when they come upon a loose bolt in the field?"
EDIT: When I've used this method it's almost always during a return trip to an area where I've noticed loose bolts.
I overdrill by about half an inch at Pinns. I'm always concerned with the soft rock - that the sleeve bolt might "shave" the hole a bit as it is pounded in and the debris generated could partially fill the bottom of the hole. It also depends on how much the surface has disintegrated under the hanger. With older sleeve bolts, I have often been forced to use a breaker bar to get them loose - no way I'd get them loose with the mini crescent wrench I always carry on my harness.
I suppose I should just start at one end of the monument and work my way to the other side, tightening and refurbishing as I go. Then when I get to the other side I can turn around and start over again. Kind of like the maintenance crew on the Golden Gate Bridge.
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Yeah, all you need is about three lifetimes....
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We saw a party on the route (Full Circle) yesterday while climbing at Chockstone. I could hear the leader talking about how much fun the second pitch was - evidently there are lots of holes and cool holds. I was hoping to get to talk to them but it didn't happen.
That sounds like it was Joe Forrester and his wife on Full Circle; good to hear they enjoyed the second pitch so much (and obviously the rest if they thought it was 3-star worthy). I spent a lot of time drilling on that second pitch... There are some cool holds, though not too many holes or pockets. (Fortunately there were enough decent edges for drilling while hanging gingerly from hooks!) The climbing is sustained and technical, like the 1st and 3rd pitches but harder and more relentless.
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That sounds like it was Joe Forrester and his wife on Full Circle; good to hear they enjoyed the second pitch so much (and obviously the rest if they thought it was 3-star worthy). I spent a lot of time drilling on that second pitch... There are some cool holds, though not too many holes or pockets. (Fortunately there were enough decent edges for drilling while hanging gingerly from hooks!) The climbing is sustained and technical, like the 1st and 3rd pitches but harder and more relentless.
Maybe I misunderstood him while I was eaves-dropping. Sustained and technical...well...so much for that :lol: :out: :prrr:
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JC, the mixed metals on the bolts of Costanoan was an issue I did not realize when I replaced the bolts about 20 years ago. The holes should be over drilled, so I think there is space for pounding in the bolt a bit.
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JC, the mixed metals on the bolts of Costanoan was an issue I did not realize when I replaced the bolts about 20 years ago...
No-one quite understood that issue 20 years ago. Hell, we were all still thinking that carbon steel 3/8 inch bolts were absolutely the ticket (which really they were to those of us that "grew up" on 1/4 inch buttonheads and Star Dryvins).
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JC, the mixed metals on the bolts of Costanoan was an issue I did not realize when I replaced the bolts about 20 years ago. The holes should be over drilled, so I think there is space for pounding in the bolt a bit.
I don't think it a big deal at Pinns unless it is subject to a lot of water...which...those bolts are not. We could go look at it together.
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Glad I never lead that route...un-safe bolts. I might have to go inspect the route.
Who knew how much of a death trap son of dawn wall was.
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Glad I never lead that route...un-safe bolts. I might have to go inspect the route.
Who knew how much of a death trap son of dawn wall was.
You might want to open the window and get some fresh air :lol:
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I added two more routes to the list today:
- 468.8 Swing to the Right 5.6
- 468.9 Can You Spare a Square? 5.3
And I've got three more new routes to add too, but those three are in the new guidebook working text and I'll have to wait to post them here until Ellen updates my hand-written, chicken scratch notes into that list (then I can just copy/paste).
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The amount of time I've been spending on Pinnacles lists, topos, maps and statistics is starting to boggle my mind. In the last week I've field-checked and cleaned/edited three topos to my current standards, written up five new routes (three of which are now done and on this site), worked on three separate parts of the updated/revised East Side text, updated the list of projects, climbed five days and kept track of my own climbs.
Is this a full time job? If so (self-appointed, so I'm not complaining), I kinda like it.
I added one route to the list just now:
- 312.4 Sling the Jockstone 5.11b
Started by Rob and Josh and just finished.
Now, Pinnacles for two more days before it rains. And we'll start the cycle all over ::)
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- 312.4 Sling the Jockstone 5.11b
That's it?! No harrowing story about our FFA???
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That's it?! No harrowing story about our FFA???
I'd love to see one. My fingers are sore though. You write it?
And it wasn't really harrowing. But I can say that Brian is very strong and very tall - he did a great job. And thanks to Rob and Josh - who aren't getting to Pinns as much as they used to - for letting us give it a go.
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Good enough. The reach got it done.
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Warning, warning, the rating on this route is very height-dependent.
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VERY ;D
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Sequence is everything on it. Only 11a on toprope. :)
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Hurt munge ya didn’t let me give it a shot.
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 352.33 Inverted Jug 5.9 *
- 351.6 Ribbet and Croak 5.6 R *
And as a further note, there are currently four routes on the “private” list, so we’re already over 1,200 routes at Pinnacles.
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I added a route to the list today:
- 417.9 The Clipper 5.4
Although I didn't give the route any stars, I really enjoyed putting it up. I think the route either loses elevation or stays even in 135 feet of climbing. All with nice exposure and still ending 60 feet above the ground!
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interesting
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. I think the route either loses elevation or stays even in 135 feet of climbing. All with nice exposure and still ending 60 feet above the ground!
Like a girdle traverse?
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Like a girdle traverse?
More like a Sierra Nevada ridge-run.
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OK, I just added the first of several new routes that I'm trying to get added before I take off with Katie to Joshua Tree. It's:
432.1 The Raven - North Side 5.10c
Next I'll be posting a correction for the area, fixing some misinformation and explaining a bit about this route.
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OK, I just added the first of several new routes that I'm trying to get added before I take off with Katie to Joshua Tree. It's:
432.1 Raven - North Side 5.10c
Next I'll be posting a correction for the area, fixing some misinformation and explaining a bit about this route.
I'm envisioning pad people flocking to The Birds :lol:
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432.1 Raven - North Side 5.10c
I'm envisioning pad people flocking to The Birds :lol:
And probably a murder at this one....
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I added five more routes to the list. All were done over the Masters of Mud weekend:
- 351.3 The Great Escape 5.7 R
- 351.3 Spoof Proof Roof 5.9 **
- 352.943. Conjunction Junction 5.10d
- 370.9. Yellowflower Pinnacle Class Four
- 407.2 Fifi Wears Lycra 5.9 *
I’ll add three more when I get to them (tomorrow, I hope).
EDIT: I should say that all were finished over that weekend.
And thanks for the look-over, J.C.
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Everything looks good.
signed,
The editor.
P.S. Still waiting for that check from Chance Inc. :idea: :arf:
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OK, I added the three Casino Rock summit routes that I just posted about in the "corrections" thread.
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I added two routes to the list today:
- 461.2 Doodlin’ Dody - Northeast Pinnacle 5.8
- 462.5 Uber the Goober 5.7 R
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Nice descriptions Brad.
I have a question or three about Initiation Fees and Uber the Goober.
I think John G's photo topo may be a bit off at the start because I'm pretty sure I stepped up on that last visible boulder (left of the trees) and made a long reach right to touch the pin. I don't remember being behind the trees as pictured.
John labeled one of the upper bolts with an arrow and wrote "Clip upper bolt from separate route". Which bolt is that on Uber?
EDIT; Duh.
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Nice descriptions Brad.
I have a question or three about Initiation Fees and Uber the Goober.
I think John G's photo topo may be a bit off at the start because I'm pretty sure I stepped up on that last visible boulder (left of the trees) and made a long reach right to touch the pin. I don't remember being behind the trees as pictured.
John labeled one of the upper bolts with an arrow and wrote "Clip upper bolt from separate route". Which bolt is that on Uber?
Okay - I answered my own questions by re-examining the info.
The bolt with the arrow is the 3rd bolt on Uber (the first bolt on Uber is not shown).
I may go climb both of those tomorrow :ihih:
I'm trying to resist the urge to drill.
I'll go sort out some bolts just in case :devildevil:
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^^^
Glad I could answer your questions so easily.
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^^^
Glad I could answer your questions so easily.
Bolts are all sorted, hardware is in! :out: :ihih: :frown2:
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I added a route to the list today:
- 471.2 Apostrophe 5.3 R
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How do you rate 5.3? Similar moves to carpet cleaner, maybe a bit harder?
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How do you rate 5.3? Similar moves to carpet cleaner, maybe a bit harder?
It used to be easy for me. H&L regular route was the quintessential Pinnacles 5.4. If a route was a little easier than H&L, it was 5.3 and if it was a little harder then a 5.5 rating.
Climbers skills soared and the touch was lost with many climbers on the lower rated climbs. The lower rated climbs became the frontage road that a few locals take, next to the busy super highway of 5.9-5.double digits.
There are connoisseurs of of these easier climbs and there are connoisseurs of harder ratings, and then there are also connoisseurs of all climbing, regardless of rating.
The broad and diverse aspect of possibility that climbing offers to people is simply remarkable.
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How do you rate 5.3? Similar moves to carpet cleaner, maybe a bit harder?
The original route is 5.1X and feels super easy to me - other than the exposure, less than great rock quality and potential death fall. I climbed that route back in 2012.
The moves on this one are definitely a few grades harder. I've done nearly all of the 5.3's in the book and put up some new routes at or near that grade. Apostrophe climbs a short, steep headwall with good holds to reach the shoulder.
One thing I really like about Apostrophe is the bolt cannot be seen from anywhere below :ihih: and you are about 10 feet above it when you are standing on the shoulder - so you still don't want to blow the moves up the final headwall on the original route. :yikes:
I also replaced the anchor on Punctuation. :thumbup: :yesnod:
clink forgot to mention that the first climb he ever did at Pinns was the Regular Route on Chockstone - 5.3 (5.1 in Richards guide which is the one clink was using).
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Then a repeat scent of carpet cleaner is required to confirm its grade.
I can only rate/ judge 5.9. Even then I have no clue.
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Then a repeat scent of carpet cleaner is required to confirm its grade.
I can only rate/ judge 5.9. Even then I have no clue.
I climbed Carpet Cleaner on 5-30-15. I remember it was hot and I was by myself (although I saw Alacia on the trail).
I wrote in my log - The holds weren’t as big as I had imagined but the climbing was easy.
The climbing is nothing like Punctuation - easy slab to a committing headwall.
As advertised, Carpet Cleaner is a mossy, filthy chute with a few easy stemming and face moves and no pro (I free soloed it).
I hear you about ratings. For me, climbing up to 5.5 usually just feels fun.
At 5.6 it starts to get more of my attention and I have been on quite a few 5.6 routes where my reaction was - whoa - this thing is getting serious!
I know it's 5.9 when I somehow manage to get through it but I am teetering on the edge of falling.
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So harsh on carpet cleaner. That is one of Mungie best routes.
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carpet cleaner. That is one of Mungie best routes.
That is harsh! :lol:
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Holmgren used to use me for checking ratings. If I got up it without complaining, it was 5.9. If I complained, or fell, or both, it was 5.10.
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Gavin finished two routes on Voyeur Wall about a month ago:
- 410.283 Peep Show 5.10c **
- 410.285 Lichen the View 5.11b *
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Both sound like great additions. Right on Gavin! Hopefully with more routes people will climb there. Right off the trail ,nice place to spend warm days in the shade, good quality rock.
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I agree about the location, Noal - it is amazing how cool and shaded it stays near those cliffs. I'm glad I was able to contribute some more to the area!
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Not to be a fan-boy, but what's even better than the qualities you two described?
The name of the cliff. Just THE perfect name.
(And, after posting the above, TTFN: it's Sierra season now, I did a massive, cross country, three hour recon today up at 9,000 feet - it looks like we will be having a climbing season up here after all).
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I did a massive, cross country, three hour recon today up at 9,000 feet - it looks like we will be having a climbing season up here after all).
Where?
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I’ll show you on Saturday.
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(And, after posting the above, TTFN:
Who are you? mungie perhaps?
I smell a permaban for the other mentions that I refuse to quote.
See you next year...
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Noal, cut me in!!
I have a few route names for the area....
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Noal, cut me in!!
Ok. I can go this weekend.
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I made these additions to the list today:
- 698.31 You Can’t Fool MoM 5.6
- 698.32 Feet to the Fire 5.7
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I made these additions to the list today:
- 698.31 You Can’t Fool MoM 5.6
- 698.32 Feet to the Fire 5.7
Nice. Thanks!
You can fool some of the people all of the time and all of the people some of the time but you can't fool MoM :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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I added five new routes to the list today:
- 97.7 Casual Friday 5.2
- 471.6 Dangling Participle 5.9
- 485.54 Four Goats’ Sake 5.6 *
- 485.55 Sheep Sheer 5.10b **
- 485.81 Scapegoat 5.7
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I added two new routes to the list this morning:
- 485.56 Goat Riddance 5.10a **
- 485.57 Forgive And Forgoat 5.10a **
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Upped from 5.9? I haven't climbed them yet, so curious about this.
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I led Forgive and Forgoat last Wednesday with Gavin and John present.
With no information ahead of time I'd have rated it 5.10a or b. It's harder than The Wet Kiss, technically harder than Lava Falls (although much better protected) and, by my estimate, two grades harder than Dangling Participle, another 5.9 that Gavin established recently on Punctuation Pinnacle.
Gavin followed my lead (John was saving up for a lead of the gut-wrenchingly runout route Piece of Ewe). Upon finishing, Gavin agreed that 5.10a was fair, told me that Goat Riddence was the same grade, and was specific that Sheep Sheer was a grade harder than these.
Interestingly, Laura had led Sheep Sheer and Steve had followed it over the PCAD weekend. They were both quite certain that it was 5.10b. So I changed that route to fit all of the above.
EDIT: And I should add too that John didn't seem to have any issue with these ratings. Maybe either or both of them will chime in with their thoughts?
And you should go do them; all three are great additions.
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I led Forgive and Forgoat last Wednesday with Gavin and John present.
With no information ahead of time I'd have rated it 5.10a or b. It's harder than The Wet Kiss, technically harder than Lava Falls (although much better protected) and, by my estimate, two grades harder than Dangling Participle, another 5.9 that Gavin established recently on Punctuation Pinnacle.
Gavin followed my lead (John was saving up for a lead of the gut-wrenchingly runout route Piece of Ewe). Upon finishing, Gavin agreed that 5.10a was fair, told me that Goat Riddence was the same grade, and was specific that Sheep Sheer was a grade harder than these.
Interestingly, Laura had led Sheep Sheer and Steve had followed it over the PCAD weekend. They were both quite certain that it was 5.10b. So I changed that route to fit all of the above.
EDIT: And I should add too that John didn't seem to have any issue with these ratings. Maybe either or both of them will chime in with their thoughts?
And you should go do them; all three are great additions.
From my climbing log:
5-9-19 Goat Riddance 5.9*
The crux is spicy as hell. You have to climb an intimidatingly steep section well above the lst bolt to get up to a lodestone and clip a bolt on the lip. Getting past there requires some pretty delicate and wide stemming and the hand holds are quite small. I had to trust some handhold knobs that I didn’t want to to get up to the bolt. Getting over the lip definitely had me at my limit and it is one where you have to keep moving steadily. The rest of the climb is relatively easy and long.
6-13-19 Forgive and Forgoat 5.9**
The first crux is past the first bolt (5.7), the second crux is past the 3rd and 4th bolts 5.8 and the 3rd crux is past the 6th and 7th bolts (5.9). All the cruxes are tricky and committing and the rock is really good. The last crux is powerful (get your left foot up first) and then commit up on balancy, small hand holds and reach high for the joy knob. It is committing to pull up on the joy knob and get the layaway knob out right and then either move up to stand on the joy knob to clip or hang off and clip before moving up. There is a good crimper for the left hand to combine with the layaway knob to move up and stand on the joy knob. The moves past there are still thoughtful and then you get a good stance at bolt 8 to cast off into the upper part.
6-27-19 Sheep Shear 10a**
I was nervous as hell but got to the first bolt no problem (it’s committing) and then the thinness of the next section getting to the crux bolt really put me off. I couldn’t commit and almost backed off. I finally got my feet up a few times (there’s almost nothing for the hands) and then got the bolt clipped. I was stemming for all I was worth and I couldn’t figure out the feet. The trick was to reposition my feet more in front of me and then stem back out further right. From there I was able to fumble around on the lip and get my feet up again (it’s all delicate stemming and footwork) and I eventually was able to reach over the lip and grab bigger holds to pull up, then push over the lip. I smacked my left elbow hard going over the lip. I was so relieved to get it. The next crux (5.9) is really good too with bigger holds and a little overhanging.
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Brian -
Let me know if you want to come climb the Goat Rock routes - I’d love to get your reactions to climbing them.
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Gavin are you free either day this weekend?
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I’ll send you an email and we can make a plan.
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But how can you have any goat if you don’t climb your granite!
-Pink Floyd. ;)
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I added two route to the list today:
- 359.5 Mister Mud Goes to Washington 5.10c
- 560.41 Ham Sandwich 5.9 *
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I heard it was 10b
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I heard it was 10b
Yeah you did. And I got sworn at and massively out-voted about that rating. The next route we did was Que Latima and everyone agreed that Mister Mud was harder.
Either way, by definition, the rating is soft (and old and weak).
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So, your saying I am right.
Yeah you did. And I got sworn at and massively out-voted about that rating.
Either way, by definition, the rating is soft (and old and weak).
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^^^
Yes, what you typed was literally correct.
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Both routes are 5.9+
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I am so utterly surrounded by FREAKS.
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I am so utterly surrounded by FREAKS.
Would you have it any other way?
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I added three new routes to the list today:
- 480.3 Jean Louise 5.4
- 480.5 Boo Radley 5.5
- 564.24 Rituals and Magic 5.9 **
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Would you have it any other way?
Actually, yes. Why can't I be surrounded by sycophants instead?
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I've never seen you in a long, red tie - shorts, yes, but never a red tie.
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Brad in a long red tie and shorts, and that's all? Get a van.
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Hey Clink, Brads van needs a sticker...hippies use side entrance...
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Definitely, and when he retires a pony tail.
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Mullet?
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^^^
Mostly just grey hair. From having to deal with FREAKS so much....
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Speaking as a retiree - if I had enough hair, I'd go with a mullet. Brad's got lots.
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The ponytail would be perfect. Little kids could climb up it and mantle for a sit finish on Brad's head. Then he could teach them how to record the speed, date, expletives produced, etc of/during their ascent.
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Maybe when we all retire we will have mullets??
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Maybe when we all retire we will have mullets??
You're all nothing but talk.
Brad and clink have had the same haircut their entire lives.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4641/27276189029_d1cefb3b72_z.jpg)
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Brad and clink have had the same haircut their entire lives.
Wow, lots of thread drift. But here goes anyway...
No, mine was much longer back in the 70s (high school senior photo):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49133985181_b6ed5bb569_z.jpg)
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I am the voice of reason!
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Wow, lots of thread drift. But here goes anyway...
No, mine was much longer back in the 70s (high school senior photo):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49133985181_b6ed5bb569_z.jpg)
Oh yeah - that is really pushing the limits - what a rebel! :lol: - still...it's the same style as today (plus 2 inches).
At least you had the guts to post something old. :yesnod: :thumbup: :out:
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Looks can be deceiving. Some cause was missing its rebel.
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No, mine was much longer back in the 70s (high school senior photo):
Much is a relative term
15th birthday summer after I turned 13 Utopia Redux tour (1992)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4586/25186499108_12108aa8f4_z.jpg)
Red River Gorge (1995) Lake Tahoe (1992)
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...it's the same style as today (plus 2 inches).
Well I've only ever owned a right handed comb.
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I added two route to the list this morning:
- 755.3 The Invitation Class Four
- 755.4 Hey Neighbor 5.5
On Hey Neighbor, Tricia decided where she wanted the first bolt and then I drilled it. She then led past that bolt, cleaning a bit and deciding where she wanted the second one. She helped drill the summit anchor too.
It was fun hanging out with her.
And now there's been over an inch of cleaning rain for this and all the other recent FAs.
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I added two route to the list this morning:
- 755.3 The Invitation Class Four
- 755.4 Hey Neighbor 5.5
From what I recall those boulders are ensconced in Poison Oak. I didn't want to get anywhere near them.
I will consider them Cook proof and redact them from any future lists.
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^^^
No, not really. The Invitation isn't anywhere near any poison oak.
There's some P.O. near the two other blocks, but it's easy to avoid (just don't come into the corridor from the trail side, and don't wander off too far in the direction of The Balconies).
If anything were to put you off from these routes, it would be their lack of quality. Some good rock, but more loose crap than I expected. And too much actual dirt too (up higher). Amazingly though all four bolts that I drilled were in bullet-hard rock. The long bolt at the anchor especially; it took us forever to drill!
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And now there's been over an inch of cleaning rain for this and all the other recent FAs.
Unless they are like most Pinns routes where dirt from above gets washed down by the rain and negates any possibiltiy of them ever being clean routes. :yesnod: :lol:
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It's a weird summit. Long and sloped on two sides. The side away from our route is broad and low-angle, covered with loose rocks, dirt and grass/brush. The side of the summit above our route is low angle too, with grass and dirt, but not nearly as much as on the other side.
So yeah, at least some dirt from above will wash down. But what really negates the possibility of it ever being clean is the fact that no-one else will ever climb it ;)
Happy Thanksgiving all! It's raining here in southern California too - pretty hard downpours at times.
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Happy Pinnsgiving :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
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Happy Happy Joy Joy
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I added three routes to the list today. With these three I’ve got more to write than just their names:
- 468.11 Up the Buttress 5.10a ***
While I only did this toprope solo (and wasn’t focussed on doing even that clean), wow! I called both first ascentionists that day and raved about giving it “two stars.” And then I got to wondering: “why only two?” This route is really good (I mean just imagine what it takes for the rock on a new Pinnacles route to be so good that is shocks me). Highly recommended, and I can't wait to go back and lead it. Probably a better route even than Shades of Jade.
- 507.8 Pinnacle Seventeen A1
Here's an odd one. I tried free climbing the only (only!) visible weakness and every single foothold I tried broke off. I didn't get off the ground. And above the "start" were another 20 feet of equally loose looking rock to a traverse to the summit.
Jenn and I climbed it by rope toss and prusik, which is what the first ascent party must have done too (unless maybe the bolt was drilled by an early prototype drone?). But that just raises the question: why put in a summit bolt at all, since a rope-toss and prusik is as easy to "Pinnacles rappel" from as it is to do in the first place? I guess someone who climbed this in the past wanted to "piss on" it so to speak, marking it so that any dummy who found it in the future would know that it had been climbed.
Odd. But it has clearly been climbed and is a part of Pinnacles' climbing history.
- 536.6 Not Today 5.10c R
The bolts on this look bad, and all three have Leeper hangers. It might actually be an "X" route until/if the bolts are replaced.
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The first one gets a star for the name alone. :)
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The first one gets a star for the name alone. :)
Yeah. And minus a star for the inability to put the true name of one of the FA authors on this site :P
See? We're back to three stars....
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Good photo op route as well.
I added three routes to the list today. With these three I’ve got more to write than just their names:
- 468.11 Up the Buttress 5.10a ***
While I only did this toprope solo (and wasn’t focussed on doing even that clean), wow! I called both first ascentionists that day and raved about giving it “two stars.” And then I got to wondering: “why only two?” This route is really good (I mean just imagine what it takes for the rock on a new Pinnacles route to be so good that is shocks me). Highly recommended, and I can't wait to go back and lead it. Probably a better route even than Shades of Jade.
- 507.8 Pinnacle Seventeen A1
Here's an odd one. I tried free climbing the only (only!) visible weakness and every single foothold I tried broke off. I didn't get off the ground. And above the "start" were another 20 feet of equally loose looking rock to a traverse to the summit.
Jenn and I climbed it by rope toss and prusik, which is what the first ascent party must have done too (unless maybe the bolt was drilled by an early prototype drone?). But that just raises the question: why put in a summit bolt at all, since a rope-toss and prusik is as easy to "Pinnacles rappel" from as it is to do in the first place? I guess someone who climbed this in the past wanted to "piss on" it so to speak, marking it so that any dummy who found it in the future would know that it had been climbed.
Odd. But it has clearly been climbed and is a part of Pinnacles' climbing history.
- 536.6 Not Today 5.10c R
The bolts on this look bad, and all three have Leeper hangers. It might actually be an "X" route until/if the bolts are replaced.
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I added five routes to the list today:
- 530.1 Bibulous Bluff Class Four *
- 530.2 Mescaline Mound 5.2
- 530.32 Pot Pinnacle - Moonshiner’s Chimney 5.5
- 530.33 Pot Pinnacle - Up In Smoke 5.3 *
- 530.4 Illicit Chimney Dome 5.4
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I added one route to the list today (but added a total of three stars too!):
- 83.5 Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a ***
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Today I modified the description for route 74.5 Jorgie Swallows to reflect that Gavin put a lead bolt in to protect the crux (he’d done the first ascent without the bolt and the route previously had an “R” sub-rating). His recent repeat ascents also made him reassess the route's quality and the new description also reflects that.
I also added a recently discovered route to the list:
- 507.35 The Maze - High Point 5.0
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I added a route to the list today:
- 302.515 Coronary Bypass 5.10b **
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I added 15 routes to the list today:
- 468.7 Five Aces 5.8 *
- 507.42 The Right Honourable Robert 5.4
- 507.43 Scurvy 5.4
- 507.5 Glad Stone 5.4
- 507.61 Half Platte 5.4
- 507.64 Slip’n Slide 5.3
- 507.65 Almost Always 5.6
- 507.71 Full Loaf - Buttered Toast 5.5
- 507.74 Half Loaf - The Slice 5.7
- 507.82 The Missing Link 5.9 *
- 507.84 The Stroll 5.2 *
- 519.6 Mister Bolt Jangles 5.8 **
- 530.05 Condorks 5.9 R *
- 578.9 The Clump - Scrambler’s Route Class Four
- 617.1 Placid Nirvana Class Four
Another route which was recently done, Plateau Pinnacle, has a still-incomplete description. I'll try to get this done and one the list soon.
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I added Plateau Pinnacle to the list today:
- 617.6 Plateau Pinnacle 5.6
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I added two routes to the list:
- 616.8 The Short Ribs - High Point 5.6
- 839.5 Butcher Block 5.3 R *
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I added two newly established routes to the list today:
- 560.7 Mean Max 5.4
- 617.2 Betsy 5.7
Of the nine people who will read this post, two or three will actually look at the newly-posted routes, and J.C. is the only one who will figure out how I decided on the name “Betsy.” Here’s hoping sincerely that he does not pull his throat muscles groaning at that derivation.
Also, I meant to add a comment about the West Side route Butcher Block when I posted that. I “ran” up and down this as an FA while I was waiting for my poor, utterly abused climbing partner of the day to catch up while we did one of the more epic brush-crashing approaches that I’ve ever done at Pinnacles (Squareblock Rock to Butcher Block and then almost to Cleaver Buttress - highly recommended!). We didn’t have a bolt kit that day, and there wouldn’t have been time to put bolts in anyway. It’s a fun route to a nice summit. Anyone who repeats it should feel free to add a lead bolt and/or an anchor if they so wish.
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If JC does not get to it sooner, I will check out Butcher Block with regard to protection and anchors.
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If JC does not get to it sooner, I will check out Butcher Block with regard to protection and anchors.
I held private memorial services for the Little Orange Servant Boy earlier this year.
RIP
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Well damn!
I just looked over the new routes list for the first time since the site was "saved/upgraded."
All of the formatting is gone! No bold, no centering and no underlining. I noticed too that I also forgot to add a route to this list that BAP and I finished in... February? Maybe early March?
It looks like a huge job to get all this fixed. Sigh. Well, on the other hand, the whole site could have been lost and I'm grateful that that didn't happen.
I'll try to get to it soon.
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Well damn!
I just looked over the new routes list for the first time since the site was "saved/upgraded."
All of the formatting is gone!
I had a problem with the Rebolting Master List with the old forum. I had to start saving my WORD doc as Plain Text.
It still looks okay.
You might want to try that (Mudworm suggested it when I was having problems and it worked).
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^^^
Yes, in my experience, the act of posting on this forum strips formatting away from existing, copied, now-to-be-pasted text. So my Pinnacles New Routes list, in Microsoft Word, is already formatted as I like it (with bold, centering and underlines). But when I copy/paste it here, that formatting is stripped.
So I've always just reformatted the now-stripped text in the box provided by this site to write in for a post, before hitting "post."
This isn't/wasn't as much work as it might seem since I rarely post more than one or a few new routes at a time.
Somehow though the recent "save" stripped all of this sites own formatting from the entire list. All that formatting that had basically "accumulated" over years. Oh well.
It'll take time to put it back the way I prefer it, but I'll do it.
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I've always just reformatted the now-stripped text in the box provided by this site.
Somehow though the recent "save" stripped all of this sites own formatting from the entire list.
All that formatting that had basically "accumulated" over years.
It'll take time to put it back the way I prefer it, but I'll do it.
When I copy and paste new information from the list to a WORD doc, I select all and immediately tell it to remove all formatting.
Then I put it in the format I want (Arial font saves ink) and I get rid of all the extra info to save more ink.
I usually increase the font too (whoops - there goes all the ink I saved) so I don't have to look like clink at the crag.
There must be some secret way to boldly go where no one has gone before on the Redux Forum.
Maybe Mud knows...he is pretty bold.
Hopefully it's not too bold of me to ask.
Will clink chime in or will he be bowled over?
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Old boldy.
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How is the new guide coming along?
Surely it will be released before the new Yosemite phone book sized guide comes out.
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How is the new guide coming along?
Surely it will be released before the new Yosemite phone book sized guide comes out.
Making steady progress.
And don't call me Shirley....
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Glad to hear.
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Well, that was easy to figure out.
All of the formatting prefixes and suffixes on the new routes list are still there (as an example, at the start of intended bold text).
But neither bold nor underlining are functions anymore. There used to be buttons which could be used to bold or underline text, and they don't exist in this new version of the site.
Italics still exists, but I've never liked and so never used italics.
I suspect that this is an oversight and not intentional?
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Interestingly the "center text" function is still there and restoring the site must have stripped that from the text. I just now restored that to the three main Pinnacles areas, the East Side, the High Peaks, and the West Side.
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...as an example, at the start of intended bold text).
Whoa?!
In the above quote what I typed in the "create text" box doesn't appear in the actual post. I typed a small case b with brackets on either side of it (three characters total). And that was there before I hit "post." It is also still there when I bring up the "create text" box the check on and modify what I typed.
But it does not appear in the post?
Here's what I typed - but with spaces added after the first bracket and before the second:
[ b ]
Weird!
EDIT:
Here's the quote above with three asterisks substituted where I'd typed the bracket-b-bracket:
...as an example, *** at the start of intended bold text).
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Well I'd set aside some time to restore the bold and underlining to the New Routes text today.
Looks like I'll have to spend that time sorting stuff sacks and/or downstairs "in" Russia ;D
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Brad is bold
Brad is not bold
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:)
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OK, so Dennis walked me through how to make it bold (not too different from the old system).
But he's not sure yet why there's no way to do it using a function instead of inserting the code manually for each route. So I'll do it manually... as time permits (Voronezh may fall to a coup).
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underline
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OK, so Dennis walked me through how to make it bold (not too different from the old system).
But he's not sure yet why there's no way to do it using a function instead of inserting the code manually for each route. So I'll do it manually... as time permits (Voronezh may fall to a coup).
I noticed that if you use "Arial Black" as a font, it includes bold formatting automatically. I don't know if that is any easier, but could be a way of redoing bold text... That is what I ended up doing for the updates to the Climbing Closures thread.
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Someone needs to fork this thread for troubleshooting the bold
but fwiw, sonorapassclimbing.com forum is on the same version and still has the 'bold' option.
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but fwiw, sonorapassclimbing.com forum is on the same version and still has the 'bold' option.
Well la dee da :arf:
Someone needs to fork this thread for troubleshooting the bold
Careful - someone might tell you to Go Fork Yourself. :lol:
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Ta-da!
Reformatted and the new formatting saved to a separate document. The list is totally current.
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I added two route to the list today:
- 363.3 Short But Well Hung 5.8 *
- 583.4 The Honey Pot - Pooh Corner 5.7
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Not even 6 months before the list had to be updated.
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I can't wait until I can travel for work again.....never thought I'd say that! SO that I can sneak in some Pinns climbing and start putting route names on this page again ;D
Also who named this :rolleyes:
Short But Well Hung 5.8 *
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I need to put up a route with my son...get him in on the action.
I am available for new routes......
Now just to get Mr. Mud's new route notebook.
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I am available for new routes......
Now just to get Mr. Mud's new route notebook.
Let's say you somehow got this notebook. Then you would have to ask yourself how you feel about spending a lot of time in frozen ,cold, mossy, places that never see the sun. Bring pocket hand warmers and thermos of coffee.
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Sounds like Alpine training to me!
The secret is insulated pants
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You will have dreams of sunshine.
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Let's say you somehow got this notebook. Then you would have to ask yourself how you feel about spending a lot of time in frozen ,cold, mossy, places that never see the sun. Bring pocket hand warmers and thermos of coffee.
So Noal, the scarring is permanent? I guess he can have that affect on people ;D
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DIE
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DIE
Only with you. And on a scaryshitfuckdamn climb at Pinnacles.
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Only with you. And on a scaryshitfuckdamn climb at Pinnacles. (http://Only with you. And on a scaryshitfuckdamn climb at Pinnacles.)
"scaryshitfuckdamn" I can find this word in any English dictionaries.
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Only with you. And on a scaryshitfuckdamn climb at Pinnacles. (http://Only with you. And on a scaryshitfuckdamn climb at Pinnacles.)
"scaryshitfuckdamn" I can find this word in any English dictionaries.
And yet you've been on such routes there....
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DIE
That was what was in the Notebook he gave me!!!
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So Noal, the scarring is permanent?
I dont mind hanging out in places as described.
The more time spent there the more I truly appreciate and value the sunshine. With that said I like hanging out in cold shady places just as much as the sunny ones.
On the other hand, places with flies and mosquitoes are not enjoyable at all.
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Ticks?
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With ticks it's more like "coulda been worse at least there weren't any ticks." That's usually what I say to myself after I decide to take a cross country "shortcut" and end up scratched and get all of those brush needles in my clothes, shoes etc.
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Ticks, ugh!
I dropped Mr. Mud off at his place in Campbell.
Got home and bam this burning sensation in my arm pit, wtf???
I removed it sloppily.....
Next day I tell Mr Mud about my hitchhiker, “you removed it wrong, oh and I have a remover”.
Now days, I change out my clothes at the car.
Mungie loves ticks, as much as he likes loose holds.
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FUKKING TICKS CAN FUK OFF AND DIE!
ask me how I really feel...
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Also who named this :rolleyes:
It's a twist on the original working name and describes the climb quite well.
I think you would like it.
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FUKKING TICKS CAN FUK OFF AND DIE!
ask me how I really feel...
Reports are coming in from the Forest Service biologist up here about a newly discovered species that they're calling "Snow Ticks." Apparently they thrive in snow, and they're being found all over places where there are light traces of engine exhaust laying on top of the snow (they're theorizing that that exhaust is from snowmobile... er, "sled" if you're cool - engines).
Mother nature sure is weird.
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Snow ticks are bad. I heard that Bud Lite Lime helps repel them.
PS, it's now raining here in the bay area, damn!!!
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Reports are coming in from the Forest Service biologist up here about a newly discovered species that they're calling "Snow Ticks."
Mother nature sure is weird.
Surrounded by freaks.
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I added one route to the list today:
617.71 Jack O’ 5.8 *
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I added one route to the list today:
617.71 Jack O’ 5.8 *
Sounds and looks good/fun.
One of our renters (long ago) had a cat name Jacko.
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Sounds and looks good/fun.
One of our renters (long ago) had a cat name Jacko.
It has a surprising amount of good rock.
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It has a surprising amount of good rock.
Gotta love north facing rock (well...I guess it's northeast).
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I added five routes to this list today:
- 583.2. Grin and Bear It 5.9
- 709.41 True North 5.2
- 709.44 North By Northwest 5.6
- 709.45 North is Up 5.4
- 740.4 Leaking Fear 5.6 *
The newly-listed route Leaking Fear is near the previously-listed route Somewhere which was added to this list in 2008. While climbing in that area (now called Dotterers' Slab) I reworked the Somewhere description and, at Jon Cochran's request, John Cook added a two-bolt anchor to the top of that route. Somewhere's description has therefore changed quite a bit and that new description is now on the list.
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I added six new routes to the list today (including two on a newly named/never reported pinnacle):
- 639.2 Leg of Lamb 5.5
- 639.4 Lamb Chop 5.2
- 646.41 Behind the Ear 5.5
- 646.44 Junk in the Trunk 5.5 R
- 663.1 The Citadel - Southeast Face - Right Finish Variation 5.3 R
- 663.4 Dance Moves Direct 5.3
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I lead a new 5.7 today that Gavin just established in July. I'm struggling to think of any 5.7 in Pinnacles that I think is better.
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Exciting! IMO Gavin really has set a high mark for new routes. It's nice to have new things to be excited about. Cant wait to check it out.
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I lead a new 5.7 today that Gavin just established in July. I'm struggling to think of any 5.7 in Pinnacles that I think is better.
Holey Moley 5.7**
I wrote in my log - This route is really fun. It is still a little dirty but has great holds, excellent rock and an interesting variety of movement/techniques. The squeeze at the top is awkward and hard to figure out (but not really difficult once you commit up left side in) – very well protected throughout and worth repeating. Kat enjoyed the follow.
Just to name a few that are better and longer;
Mud Diamond
Pay Dirt
Rat Race
50 Meter Must
Salathe Burnette Bolt Variation
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Exciting! IMO Gavin really has set a high mark for new routes. It's nice to have new things to be excited about. Cant wait to check it out.
Agreed.
Gavin has been putting up many of the best new routes and I've told him that repeatedly.
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Dragonfly Dome, Burgundy Dome
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Another 5.7 there too, one star, a wild up and right 5.10a crack with impeccable rock that gets two stars, and a crazy wide 10c stemming chute that gets two stars.
Never climbed formation on North Wilderness Trail he’s calling Wind Willow Rock. Near a stream, next to stands of willows and cottonwoods.
Will post them when I have the chance.
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Thanks for the support, guys - it means a lot to hear your praise. Knowing that other Pinnacles masters like yourselves thoroughly enjoy routes I've established makes it worth the efforts.
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Dragonfly Dome, Burgundy Dome
Ace of Spades
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I added five routes to the list today:
- 468.041. Breaking Badger 5.7 *
- 468.042. Toad Haul 5.10c **
- 468.043. Holey Moley 5.7 ***
- 468.044. Rat Reaching Right 5.10a **
- 663.2. See You Saturday 5.4
Of these routes, those at Wind Willow Rock (the first four in this entry) got my attention in a very good way. Much of the rock on these routes seemed almost like granite. And the moves? Unusual stuff for Pinnacles. The 5.10a, Rat Reaching Right, is a good example. I pulled this off on sight, on lead. But I got stuck at the crux for at least five minutes (it seemed like 20 minutes; sorry again Alacia for the "extended" language). Weird moves? How about unconventional. And fun. This route could be 5.10a but it could be 5.10b or 10c. How to rate this type of stuff, which only seems "not so bad" after you're through it? Probably you just give it a 5.10a. Wind Willow Rock is a very nice location too.
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Much of the rock on these routes seemed almost like granite.
:madman: :madman: :madman:
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Much of the rock on these routes seemed almost like granite.
It just hit me (maybe the brick wall did the trick). Some of the rock at Wind Willow Rock is very much like some of the blacker, really solid and often holey stuff at Red Rocks. Especially at the starts of Toad Haul and Holey Moley.
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What is IT?
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Much of the rock on these routes seemed almost like granite.
Some of the rock at Wind Willow Rock is very much like some of the blacker, really solid and often holey stuff at Red Rocks.
As a lifelong student of geology I don't know which statement horrifies me more. :yikes:
The last one is certainly the most inaccurate.
Brad talking about rocks is like me talking about the history of war. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :ciappa:
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What is IT?
IT is the thing I'd been trying to get specific about that was just lingering in the back of what is left of my mind.
There was something about the rock that reminded me of something. And then IT hit me.
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As a lifelong student of geology I don't know which statement horrifies me more. :yikes:
The last one is certainly the most inaccurate.
Brad talking about rocks is like me talking about the history of war. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :ciappa:
True story about another climber and hopelessly pathetic geology nerd that I hang with.
It was his first time at the South Fork Stanislaus climbing areas. One of the best climbing areas on all of Sonora Pass.
The granite down there is bullet hard. Immaculate. From a climber's perspective it's as good as any granite I've ever been on, including but not limited to the stone in Tuolumne Meadows. And most climbers who've been there would agree that Tuolumne Meadows has world-class rock.
And I'd told Roger these things before we even started hiking down there. Hiking down there to climb on the rock.
As we're walking up to South Forks Slabs - Center the rock just looks good. It's beautiful and shiny and very, very clean.
So I said: "see Roger, the rock is just like Tuolumne Meadows!"
His response: "oh no Brad, look at the size of the feldspar crystals in this rock, they're much bigger...."
Yep. Lost me there.
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The granite down there is bullet hard.
His response: "oh no Brad, look at the size of the feldspar crystals in this rock, they're much bigger...."
Bullet hard - total oxymoron. Lead has a Mohs hardness of 1.5 (your fingernail is about 2.5).
Feldspar (Mohs 6) is harder than typical steel, quartz (Mohs 7) is one level harder than feldspar.
Just for the sake of argument - an armor piercing round has a hardened steel core that could be harder than 7.
"Quartz hard" is as hard as it gets with granite.
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hopelessly pathetic geology nerd
Oh...and thanks for the compliment.
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Hopelessly hopeless.
I hereby also announce that black diamond can eat shit. That’s twice in two seasons that a new-this-season hammer has failed. Literally fallen apart failed. This time on lead. A&@holes.
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And yes, I’ve had half a glass of wine. But there’s simply no excuse for a hammer to Godamn fail and that’s me, not the wine. Who’s using what hammer nowadays? One that’s reliable? Ass&$holes.
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And I may not have a chance to post tomorrow until evening. So, in case I miss it, isn’t tomorrow the birthday of our oldest of two illustrious leaders? MISTER MUD, isn’t February 28 your birthday? Miss you. And happy, happy birthday.
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Now I’m almost done with the wine.
So, a confession. Forgive me father for I have sinned. I am a litterbug. Godamn ravens stole my food bag today. I only lost a few bars, but their wrappers are now scattered somewhere around Pinnacles. Damn birds.
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I love ravens. They’re smart and gorgeous.
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I love ravens. They’re smart and gorgeous.
You should get two and train them to ride on the backs of your hounds.
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And yes, I’ve had half a glass of wine. But there’s simply no excuse for a hammer to Godamn fail and that’s me, not the wine. Who’s using what hammer nowadays? One that’s reliable? Ass&$holes.
Specifically what failed?
Mine had the rivet that holds the metal straps on fail but the hammer did not fall apart and I was able to fix it with a few hardware store parts. Simple easy and cheap. Gavin had the same thing happen and also fixed it with the same "rig" I did.
You should be grateful you can get out at all and quit drunk posting...
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Hopelessly hopeless.
I hereby also announce that black diamond can eat shit. That’s twice in two seasons that a new-this-season hammer has failed. Literally fallen apart failed. This time on lead. A&@holes.
Helplessly Hoping
Bring me the hammers and I will rework them.
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And yes, I’ve had half a glass of wine. But there’s simply no excuse for a hammer to Godamn fail and that’s me, not the wine. Who’s using what hammer nowadays? One that’s reliable? Ass&$holes.
Thanks Brad,
I think Dammer is the hammer of choice for choss
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And yes, I’ve had half a glass of wine. But there’s simply no excuse for a hammer to Godamn fail and that’s me, not the wine. Who’s using what hammer nowadays? One that’s reliable? Ass&$holes.
It seems as though someone may have been keeping your glass half full. You swing a hammer like Thor's protege. If I could swing a hammer with the force that you do, a 4 inch hole would take me about 2 minutes to drill. May have something to do with a hard aid background.
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Happy Birthday Mud!
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thanks
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Yeah, Happy B-Day Mud - hope it was a good one!
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Also, thanks to JC for the suggestions on repairing my hammer - he gave very specific details on what to get to repair it. It cost me less than $2.00 of supplies at the hardware store, and maybe a half hour of work at home.
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Bullet hard - total oxymoron. Lead has a Mohs hardness of 1.5 (your fingernail is about 2.5).
Feldspar (Mohs 6) is harder than typical steel, quartz (Mohs 7) is one level harder than feldspar.
Just for the sake of argument - an armor piercing round has a hardened steel core that could be harder than 7.
You were right about not doing the trivia thing regarding war and military issues.
Everyone knows that "bullet hard" refers to the tungsten core of an APDS round (no, not ATDS).
Armor piercing discarding sabot rounds (the bullet) have a tungsten core that is significantly smaller diameter than the barrel of the gun that shoots them. The sabots separate from the round as it leaves the gun barrel. This results in much higher velocity for a much smaller diameter round. Very effective when shooting at armor.
EDIT: And yes, of course I typed this from memory and not using any reference to a computer. Normal people know things like this.
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Specifically what failed?
Mine had the rivet that holds the metal straps on fail but the hammer did not fall apart and I was able to fix it with a few hardware store parts. Simple easy and cheap. Gavin had the same thing happen and also fixed it with the same "rig" I did.
You should be grateful you can get out at all and quit drunk posting...
Same as on yours and Gavin's. And same as on the one that failed last year. Larry got them to replace the one that failed last year. This one failed while I was drilling on lead. I only noticed when the sound of the drilling changed. I stopped and looked at my hammer and the head was 60% off the handle, slowly sliding up-handle. I don't think it was far from the head flying off ("ROCK") by the time I pounded in the bolt.
Luckily Bob rescued us yesterday. Its the only time I've climbed with Waldo where he's been the second most important thing that arrived at the trailhead in his car ;)
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It seems as though someone may have been keeping your glass half full. You swing a hammer like Thor's protege. If I could swing a hammer with the force that you do, a 4 inch hole would take me about 2 minutes to drill. May have something to do with a hard aid background.
I don't get it. You DO drill a four inch hole in two minutes. I've never seen anyone drill faster than you. Jim McConachie usually drills as fast, but not faster.
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I don't get it. You DO drill a four inch hole in two minutes. I've never seen anyone drill faster than you.
Jim McConachie usually drills as fast, but not faster.
I don't know where this perception of Jim's drilling comes from.
I've drilled with him and he was no faster than me.
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Clink is the fastest at drilling.
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You swing a hammer like Thor's protege.
May have something to do with a hard aid background.
It's because he uses the Hurry Cane - that drill holder takes 3 times the hammer force of a Rocpec to accomplish the same thing.
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Clink is the fastest at drilling.
Score one for Brisco County Junior :lol:
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Clink is the fastest at drilling.
I concur. Clink takes the Balconies cinnamon roll, as far as I'm concerned.
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I only drilled together with Jim one time and he definitely drilled faster. I, of course, looked more heroic, desperate and compelling
(But basically, it's just not fair, Gandalf is ambidextrous)
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Hard to beat Gandalf. He has his tricks.
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I don't know where this perception of Jim's drilling comes from.
I've drilled with him and he was no faster than me.
How about the slowest
The crux bolt on Shoot The Tube took 95 minutes (or was that 2 1/2 hours and 95 minutes for one of the Conduit to the Cosmos holes). How long it took for some of those sketchy no aid stances tends to jumble up with age. Primitive drill bits back then too. Ah the sweetness of youth...
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2.5 hrs. Ouch.
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Gavin didn’t feel like hauling me up his route today. So he temporarily renamed Toad Haul to Toad Catch. And I led it instead of toproping. No catch though. I pulled it off. Fifteen feet of very, very sustained stemming. But it feels like 50 feet.
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I pulled it off.
Toad Licker :thumbup:
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I added three routes to the list today:
- 653.9 Get Smart 5.10a ***
- 655.3 The Flying None 5.7 **
- 698.99 Whose Mama 5.8
Make sure to read the temporary notes that follow and explain current conditions on Get Smart and The Flying None!
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^^^
It's fun for me to note that The Flying None took more time for me/us to establish than any other first ascent I've ever done at Pinnacles. We were on the route on either ten or eleven different days. Jennifer and I worked on the route alone for all but one of those days. Also, I drilled all but the first 2/3 of the first bolt on the climb. Jenn tried to drill that bolt and after two hours was only 2/3 done. So I finished that one and then drilled all the rest of the bolts and she did all of the brushing (and she did a hell of a lot of that). All in all, it worked very smoothly.
The route is still fairly dirty, as are many new routes at Pinnacles. But most of the dirt is now loose and with use and rain the good quality rock that predominates will get cleaner and cleaner.
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I've heard that if you place a hand on either side of your helmet - you can fly up that route.
Sounds like on Get Smart you missed it by THAT much.
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I've heard that if you place a hand on either side of your helmet - you can fly up that route.
Sounds like on Get Smart you missed it by THAT much.
^^^
Were old. And no one who isn't close to our age is going to understand either comment.
Oh yeah... no one who isn't our age reads this forum anyway.
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Find a link between Get Smart and Mission Impossible and call it Controlled Chaos
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‘We were on the route on either ten or eleven different days.’
Sounds like a sport route :)
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Oh yeah... no one who isn't our age reads this forum anyway.
Ahem
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You are an old soul.
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The weather was unusually cool last Saturday, so Bob Walton and I climbed Flying None again. I lead P1 and P3, Bob lead P2 and P4. We both loved the route. Here are some photos.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51201106251_9a6706e94e_z.jpg);
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51201883709_52a7859ca6_z.jpg);
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51202169265_8ba453cd9c_z.jpg);
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51202169215_75cd05c507_z.jpg);
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Nicely done (on the none).
That second photo (of you) is one of the best shots I've ever seen of you. That's a good shot of Bob too.
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That second photo (of you) is one of the best shots I've ever seen of you.
Bob took most photos on the climb. Of course he also did fabulous leads on P2 and P4. We worked very well together.
Thank you Bob!
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We worked very well together.
Thank you Bob!
Thanks for putting up with the senior citizen! You got the hard moves at the beginning pitch 3 and that first pitch is work as soon as you step off the deck. It was a fine day!
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I put in the top/fourth pitch anchor for The Flying None yesterday and changed the route description to reflect that.
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Sally Port 5.8 *
I still think it's 5.7 (if you Goddamn know how to climb chimneys). But as usual, I will defer to my superiors.
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Brad considering me a Superior? Mind=blown!
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Was it a case of proper attire? Rugby shirt vs something slippery.
I thought you liked the other Sally, what happened?
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Funny that the phrase/name Sally Port isn't commonly understood. A sally port is a secret or at least hard to see exit point on a castle. A typical use of a sally port would have been for a besieged castle garrison to send out a raid on the besieging force to throw it off its timetable (such a raid is called a sally).
It is a deep chimney route on The Citadel. And what is a citadel but a castle?
I explained the definition to Dawson when we worked on it three weeks ago. Sure enough, the night before we finished it he was watching Game of Thrones and they planned a raid through a sally port in the show.
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OK, let us start a game of rate that route. Jenn and I finished it today. The route description is not yet done, but it will start this way:
A fun 45 foot aid route which accesses two free climbs above. The aid consists of...
The climb is on a 100 degree wall. In other words almost all of it overhangs by 10 degrees. This is the gear I placed to lead the pitch today:
- bolt
- hook
- hook
- hook
- two fixed pins three inches apart driven very deeply into a horizontal slot/crack
- bolt
- bolt
- hook
- bolt
- hook
- bolt
- hook
- bolt
- bolt
And the last bolt was followed by a few 5.5 free moves to a three bolt anchor (there is a slight stance at the two bolts I set up for rappel, but it is not enough for two climbers to hang on a vertical wall and so a third bolt allows a slightly more comfortable sling belay).
The first three hooks are in incut, deep to very deep pockets in good to very good rock (one could hang a portaledge from them). The upper hooks are almost as bomber, although the holes are not quite as deep.
So this route, The Joy of Hooking: is it 5.5 A1 or is it 5.5 A2?
By the way, the two free climbing routes in the streaks above will be Having Hooked and Once a Hooker.
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Here's the first hook, a standard Black Diamond in a deep hole:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51727524168_f873d0bc2e_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51727931694_3d19efdf27_c.jpg)
Second hook:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51727538633_2e01616e47_c.jpg)
Third (a two inch diameter Fish hook):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51727289766_5029ffa420_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51727542688_be3bfb78eb_c.jpg)
The two pins (a long Lost Arrow and and equally long 3/4 inch angle):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51727548933_31d243eded_c.jpg)
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Placing the second bolt (a little less than 20 feet up) a few weeks ago:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51726519212_b277208cb0_b.jpg)
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Pins at Pinns. Cool hook placements, oh, and A2.
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All the hooks and pins I see look pretty bombproof. I
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All the hooks and pins I see look pretty bombproof. I
Looks like I'm caught between a rock and a master debater.
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Caleb got ambushed by this new "apostrophe thing" on the site.
He texted me what he wanted to say:
"I think it is probably A1 in the original aiding rating system. My reasoning is that the rating should be given based off of how solid the placement is, not at how physical the upward movement is. All the hooks looked bombproof. I guess in the new wave rating system, you could make a case for A2. Since a few of those placements may have been awkward."
And I replied: "Two hook placements take some actual care to place (the others you could just throw them over the edge). But they are pretty damn good once they are placed."
Caleb also said that Jon could stick it (my paraphrase).
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Caleb, are you sure that's what you meant? "Strenuous" is clearly included in Xavier's definition.
80s big wall aid ratings... https://bigwalls.net/climb/Ratings.html
Ratings
A0: Also known as "french-free", using gear to make progress, but generally no aiders required. Examples: Half Dome regular route, sections of the Nose route on El Cap, the first two pitches of the West Face (either a quick 5.10, A0 with three points of aid, or tricky 5.11 c).
A1: Easy aid: placements straightforward and solid. No risk of any piece pulling out. Aiders generally required. Fast and simple for C1, the hammerless corresponding grade, but not necessarily fast and simple for nailing pitches. Examples: (clean) the non-5.12 version of the Salathe headwall, Prodigal Son on Angel's Landing and Touchstone Wall in Zion.
A2: Moderate aid: placements generally solid but possible awkward and strenuous to place. Maybe a tenuous placement or two above good pro with no fall-danger. Examples: the Right side of El Cap Tower (nailing), Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot in Zion (clean).
A2+: Like A2, but possibly several tenuous placements above good pro. 20 to 30 foot fall potential but with little danger of hitting anything. Route finding abilities may be required. Examples: the new wave grades of Mescalito and the Shield on El Cap, the Kor route on the Titan in the Fisher Towers area.
A3: Hard aid: testing methods required. Involves many tenuous placements in a row. Generally solid placements (which could hold a fall) found within a pitch. Long fall potential up to 50 feet (6-8 placements ripping), but generally safe from serious danger. Usually several hours required to complete a pitch, due to complexity of placements. Examples: The Pacific Ocean Wall lower crux pitches (30 feet between original bolts on manky fixed copperheads), Standing Rock in the desert (the crux being a traverse on the first pitch with very marginal gear with 30 foot swing potential into a corner).
A3+:Like A3, but with dangerous fall potential. Tenuous placements (like a marginal tied-off pin or a hook an a fractured edge) after long stretches of body-weight pieces (here body-weight placements are considered for all practical purposes any piece of gear not solid enough to hold a fall). Potential to get hurt if good judgement is not exercised. Time required generally exceeds 3 hours for experienced aid climbers. Example: Pitch 3 of "Days of No Future" on Angel's Landing in Zion, the crux being 50 feet of birdbeaks and tied-off blades in soft sandstone followed by a blind, marginal Friend placement in loose rock which was hard to test properly, all this above a ledge.
A4: Serious aid: lots of danger. 60 to 100 foot fall potentials common, with uncertain landings far below. Examples: pitches on the Kaliyuga on Half Dome and the Radiator on Abraham in Zion.
A4+: More serious than A4. these leads generally take many hours to complete and require the climber to endure long periods of uncertainty and fear, often requiring a ballet-like efficiency of movement in order not to upset the tenuous integrity of marginal placements. Examples: the "Welcome to Wyoming" pitch (formerly the"Psycho Killer" pitch) on the Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Cap, requiring 50 feet of climbing through a loose, broken, and rotten Diorite roof with very marginal, scary placements like stoppers wedged in between two loose, shifting, rope-slicing slivers of rock, all this over a big jagged loose ledge which would surely break and maim bones. The pitch is then followed by 100 feet of hooking interspersed with a few rivets to the belay.
A5: Extreme aid. Nothing really trustworthy of catching a fall for the entire pitch. Rating should be reserved only for pitches with no bolts or rivets (holes) for the entire pitch. Examples: pitches on the Jolly Roger and the Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Cap, Jim Beyer routes in Arches National Park and the Fisher Towers.
A6: (Theoretical grade) A5 climbing with marginal belays which will not hold a fall.
New wave - though I'm not sure this is version is complete... http://www.alpinist.com/p/climbing_notes/grades
A1: Easy aid. No risk of a piece pulling out.
A2:Moderate aid. Solid gear that is more difficult to place.
A2+: 10-meter fall potential from tenuous placements, but without danger.
A3: Hard aid. Many tenuous placements in a row; 15-meter fall potential; could require several hours for a single pitch.
A3+: A3 with dangerous fall potential.
A4: Serious aid. 30-meter ledge-fall potential from continuously tenuous gear.
A4+: Even more serious, with even greater fall potential, where each pitch could take many hours to lead.
A5: Extreme aid. Nothing on the entire pitch can be trusted to hold a fall.
A6: A5 climbing with belay anchors that won
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Two more photos of Brad on Joy of Hooking
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51728274667_aebf32c3ff.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51728274592_75041faea6.jpg)
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Shorts and T-shirts. Oh the humanity! Where's the snow? ;)
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A2 includes awkward placements. Bap, did Brad ever look awkward while on the lead?
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Clink,
Wearing that pair of short shorts, of course he looked awkward. ;)
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YES!
Next witness.
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^^^
The two posters immediately above are dead meat.
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me dead. :-\
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Leading is shorts like that...I'd prefer not falling.
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nice pics
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Leading while wearing shorts adds new context to overhangs. Are additional ratings needed? G, PG, R, NC-17?
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Everything with his shorts are x rated.
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^^^
Envy:
"a feeling of discontented or resentful longing aroused by someone else's possessions, qualities, or luck."
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Of Course, we all "long" to wear "short" shorts. ;D
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Alas, Snow White has seven close friends who envy you.
I must confess that I used to own and wear a powder blue pair of OP shorts in the 80's.
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BAP, nope! My nickname in jr. high gym class was birdlegs.
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A fun 45 foot aid route which accesses two free climbs above. The aid consists of...
The climb is on a 100 degree wall. In other words almost all of it overhangs by 10 degrees. This is the gear I placed to lead the pitch today:
- bolt
- hook
- hook
- hook
- two fixed pins three inches apart driven very deeply into a horizontal slot/crack
- bolt
- bolt
- hook
- bolt
- hook
- bolt
- hook
- bolt
- bolt
And the last bolt was followed by a few 5.5 free moves to a three bolt anchor (there is a slight stance at the two bolts I set up for rappel, but it is not enough for two climbers to hang on a vertical wall and so a third bolt allows a slightly more comfortable sling belay).
The first three hooks are in incut, deep to very deep pockets in good to very good rock (one could hang a portaledge from them). The upper hooks are almost as bomber, although the holes are not quite as deep.
So this route, The Joy of Hooking: is it 5.5 A1 or is it 5.5 A2?
By the way, the two free climbing routes in the streaks above will be Having Hooked and Once a Hooker.
Let me know if you want a counterbalance/B-layer.
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Has Kev weighed in?
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Hooks by definition are A2, even if they're bomber. If those 3 hooks are spaced at the extent of one's reach then you could possibly claim an A3-
That said, if the ALL of the hooks are 100% bomber, you could claim A1+ as that speaks to the experience of the climbing, but for best practices I'd go with an A2 or A2- for the grade.
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I am unable to post my full response of three short paragraphs.
I will see if it will do the first paragraph:
^^^
Thanks for the additional comments. All I am missing at this point is an end opinion from Rob. I would value that as much as I value the one above from Kevin.
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Next:
The Kevin comments have me to the point of changing my mind already, however. I was wavering, but leaning toward A1 (and I want to rate it A1). Beyond the thoughts expressed above, the fact that one of the hook placements needs to be made fairly carefully needs to be considered (I looked at it again today while rappelling over it and realized that it isn't as down-and-incut as the others). And, especially, the strenuous nature of the climb. It's slightly less than 40 feet of overhanging aid to the short section where it is vertical. But someone without a fairly smooth aid climbing ability could absolutely burn out and then flail trying to pull themselves up. I think that the best rating is 5.5 A2.
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Last:
There is no chance though of using any "minus" or "plus" ratings. Those don't exist except for 5.9+ (and that has its own meaning based in long history). >:D
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Aid ratings definitely use plus and minus. That
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Aid ratings definitely use plus and minus.
While you are obviously correct on this issue (and so is Kevin), I am in my 60s now and I do not have to admit it.
Overall though I am now very comfortable with A2 for this pitch. I will stay open to more arguments, especially if anyone ever repeats it.
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Funny that the phrase/name Sally Port isn't commonly understood.
Did the phrase Sally Forth morph from this?
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There must have been four women in a certain port that were named Sally.
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Did the phrase Sally Forth morph from this?
I think they are using the word "sally" in exactly the same sense.
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There must have been four women in a certain port that were named Sally.
Weirdo.
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Weirdo.
Firmly established long ago!
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There are many levels of weird, "On the 24th of November, 1553, a priest, Sir Thomas Sothwood, who was given the alias of Parson Chekyn of St. Nicholas Cole Abbey in Olde Fish Street, was found guilty of offering men sex with his wife in exchange for money. Though parsons were not permitted to marry, some ignored church teachings and did so anyway, as Parson Chekyn had. He was punished by being made an example of, paraded through the streets of London in the ward of Queenhithe. He was made to ride around the city on a cart, as a means of shaming him".
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New addition today, The Wolf 5.7 R (see above).
New addition Feb 10, 2009, The Road to Bagalaar 5.8 R (see above).
don't believe me
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You could enhance to make A1
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Aaron! :) I've been revisiting memories of climbing routes with you. You finishing Where's Waldo without that last bolt, and the last route we worked on, and exploring Rituals, among others.
Still flying?
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Still flying?
He has evidently become some kind of double naught spy encoding cryptic messages that only Brad understands.
And he must only look at this site about once a year...
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don't believe me
ok, bc looks like you're a hacked account without more of a post.
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Maybe Aaron fixed the apostrophe problem/glitch
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Maybe Aaron fixed the apostrophe problem/glitch
Negatory. I already checked that before snarking.
Scroll through the new routes list and you see all kinds of weird displays - no consistency though.
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Some of that stuff has always been a little weird :out:
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Facts
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Since no new routes are being posted - I went through the list and renamed all of my FAs. Good Times.
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Since no new routes are being posted...
This is not by choice, mind you.
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This is not by choice, mind you.
How am I supposed to cause trouble when you won't take the bait?
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Zay, I just sent you a PM on this site about new routes. It asks you to email me. Not sure you would see it and maybe you will see an actual post sooner?
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I was just looking over a few things and noticed that the description for the route Condorks states that the route starts from the top of the rock fin. We belayed in the chasm between the rock fin and the wall.
On a sad note, John Bolte who I did the FA with, was killed two weeks ago by rockfall while descending from Fitzroy in Patagonia. He was truly a modern day stonemaster, one of the nicest people and loyal friend to many people. His loss is felt far and wide. He was 26 years old.
Debating whether to add a few extra bolts like has been suggested. John gave his approval, but now that he's gone it's hard to decide whether to proceed with the plan
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Thanks for posting that Adam. I thought about posting something but I did not know John and only saw him in the gym a couple times. I had no idea what an accomplished climber he was.
We heard about the accident shortly after it happened and Kat read me an article yesterday that was published in the latest issue of Climbing magazine. From all accounts of his bold style and ability to move fast - for what it is worth - I would not blame you for leaving the route as is.
If I had it to do over again, I would not have allowed most of the bolts to be added to my runouts.
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From all accounts of his bold style and ability to move fast - for what it is worth - I would not blame you for leaving the route as is.
If I had it to do over again, I would not have allowed most of the bolts to be added to my runouts.
Thanks for the input. I don't think the runouts as they currently stand are that bad and might let it stand. I did have John place a new bolt to edit his runout for bolt three on the route. it was most definitely a ground fall before the new third. The dude was really comfortable when runout.
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I typically lean toward leaving runouts as is but that is just me. I like those routes and they are typically the highest on my to-do list. Even though sometimes it means I never actually manage to do them.
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Wow, what a bummer.
You gotta embrace those runouts.
On some routes an added bolt would chance the character.
Then again I