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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Brad Young on April 02, 2026, 11:08:53 AM »

Which makes his ascent invalid.  He will have to go back and do it again.  Jimmy Chin can make a part two. $$$

  

God, aren't purists annoying! Hell, there I times when I even annoy myself....

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by NOAL on April 02, 2026, 10:07:05 AM »

That reminds me... when Alex Honnold free solo'ed El Cap, he did not follow the bolted line up the slab pitch of Freeblast because if he was not clipping bolts, there was no reason to be confined to that (harder) way.

Which makes his ascent invalid.  He will have to go back and do it again.  Jimmy Chin can make a part two. $$$

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Brad Young on April 01, 2026, 03:14:22 PM »

Ha... that pretty much supports my point:

If one does not follow the bolts, they can go anywhere they want, so there is no point in drawing them all out. That reminds me... when Alex Honnold free solo'ed El Cap, he did not follow the bolted line up the slab pitch of Freeblast because if he was not clipping bolts, there was no reason to be confined to that (harder) way.

Your point didn't need support, it was always self-evident. But yeah, there's a point to "drawing them all out." It's how great guidebooks are done....

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Marco on April 01, 2026, 02:54:42 PM »

Alex Honnold

Who?

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by mudworm on April 01, 2026, 09:53:45 AM »

Ha... that pretty much supports my point:

Would you consider erasing the 5.7 variation on P3?

If one does not follow the bolts, they can go anywhere they want, so there is no point in drawing them all out. That reminds me... when Alex Honnold free solo'ed El Cap, he did not follow the bolted line up the slab pitch of Freeblast because if he was not clipping bolts, there was no reason to be confined to that (harder) way.

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

« Last post by looks easy from here on March 31, 2026, 05:39:28 AM »

Did you hop on Romanian Rib by chance? I thought that for the grade/length it was better than Tenaya. Probably the best of the grade that I have done.

We climbed Lady Luck. A thousand feet of glorious 5.3, capped by 30' of awkward, insecure 5.7. I was vacillating between those two climbs, though. I ended up settling on Lady Luck because we would be able to simul-climb most of it.

That chimney shot makes me want to get up to Spike's Peak this fall.

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

« Last post by Marco on March 30, 2026, 06:49:58 PM »

Excellent on the climb, as their flexibility is unsurpassed. Unfortunately they were an equal detriment on the approach and descent, as they breathed shockingly poorly and the waist kept sliding down. (Unrelated, thanks for your beta on the raps for the First Creek Slabs on Mountain Project. My cousin and I were out there about a month ago and that information was quite helpful.)

I have heard the more colorful the lycra, the harder you send. Unfortunate about the breathability when not on rock.

Did you hop on Romanian Rib by chance? I thought that for the grade/length it was better than Tenaya. Probably the best of the grade that I have done.

Painters Pants > Lycra > Corduroy (never worn any while climbing, just who I would respect the most at the crag based off looks)



edit: just remembered this is a photo thread so here is some random photos from past couple months at pinns


Brett following Helios Finish on Colossus. It was his 2nd time at the pinns, 4th time outdoors, and he doubled the amount of his lifetime leads that day.


Brett's first climb at the pinns


Cole on Swine Flue


I feel it Munge, I'm barely hanging on

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by waldo on March 30, 2026, 06:11:28 PM »

I will admit I am the climber in question.  In my quest to "keep it old school" I broke left after plugging a cam just above the first bolt.  I got lured off route by the path of least resistance and what looked like cleaner rock far left.  This ended up being a nice way to climb the pitch, and before long, I found myself at the anchors.  Very fun route, and thanks to all who helped rebolt!  Red line is the route I took:



As for Anasazi, this was mostly a hazing ritual for my buddy who had never been to the park before.  And the allure of a long gear only route drew me in, such a rarity at the Pinns.  It ended up being quite an enjoyable adventure, though I'm still undecided on if I had "fun" on pitch 3.  Can never count out the pitches with no grade in the book...  But the whole time I was eyeing up Berserker, which looks like the true Citadel king line.  Anyone know what those crux bolts look like?

I put the bolt in on that pitch and Jack led to the 3rd pitch belay. It never dawned on either of us to look further left. Good work in doing so!

Berserker? Jack and I climbed it in 1990. I broke something and took a decent fall not far below the 2nd pitch belay. I recall thinking "well, that wasn't so hard," just before the tumble. We were never tempted to repeat it. There were few (if any!) enjoyable passages and the predominant focus was on getting to the top in one piece.

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

« Last post by mungeclimber on March 29, 2026, 08:24:07 PM »

My royalty checks are still going to be sent for them pics, yes?   

I only vaguely recall the climbing, but definitely recall the day as it was one of the few (only?) times I've been to the spires. I think we climbed something else that weekend too? 10c sport? An arete. Something awkward climbing movement or gear-wise happened?

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

« Last post by Brad Young on March 29, 2026, 07:05:29 PM »

The second and third shots are on Fear of Flying on Upper Spire at Phantom Spires. The second one is actually higher on the route than the third one.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105858248/fear-of-flying

(Both photos taken by munge himself.)

EDIT: At least that's what my photo labeling tells me - I don't have any independent recollection from literally 30 years ago. But I've always been pretty darn careful with that kind of labeling.