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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by looks easy from here on March 28, 2026, 07:42:41 AM »
Yeah, that'll be a hard pass from me. :puke: :lol:
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Had a silly day Thursday on The Flying None. Might need to break out these pants again for the next photo shoot.  :lol:

Edit: still working on getting the pic link entered correctly...

Edit edit: success!
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Everywhere Else / Re: The Prow, Washington Column TR
« Last post by mungeclimber on March 27, 2026, 11:44:56 AM »
/me pressing the Like button :)
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by Brad Young on March 25, 2026, 07:33:34 PM »

You've got me curious; I don't see that route in the book or on the update list here. Though if it hasn't seen a second ascent, I doubt I'm bold enough to be that person.

I didn't use the full name. Here's the full name and description as it appears in the new book:

"1239.  Machete Direct Fourth Pitch - My Mistake Variation  5.10b X  This fourth pitch variant to Machete Direct was originally climbed in error (the first ascentionist traversed too far left, into a second streak, and ran that out to the top).  Originally described as unprotected 5.8, a short headwall well up the streak (at least 50 feet above any protection possibilities) requires 5.10 moves.  Of interest, the 1983 guidebook noted that:  “The first ascent party… recommended that a bolt kit be brought along on another ascent.”  To date, no one has acted on this suggestion."

It's in the old book too under that full name.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by looks easy from here on March 25, 2026, 06:46:53 PM »
^^^

Sounds like just the right person to climb My Mistake. Has that ever had a second ascent?


You've got me curious; I don't see that route in the book or on the update list here. Though if it hasn't seen a second ascent, I doubt I'm bold enough to be that person.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by Brad Young on March 25, 2026, 04:01:22 PM »
Thanks for the clarification, Cole.

For some reason I read into Marco's comments that you skipped bolts on the first pitch. I just re-read them and he did not say that. Wow, skipping the bolts I thought you skipped? That would have been more than a little out of control.
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Everywhere Else / Re: The Prow, Washington Column TR
« Last post by Cole Ing on March 25, 2026, 03:44:44 PM »
Quote
ganja is now 200 feet above you

This was the fastest jug of your life
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by Cole Ing on March 25, 2026, 03:43:29 PM »
I will admit I am the climber in question.  In my quest to "keep it old school" I broke left after plugging a cam just above the first bolt.  I got lured off route by the path of least resistance and what looked like cleaner rock far left.  This ended up being a nice way to climb the pitch, and before long, I found myself at the anchors.  Very fun route, and thanks to all who helped rebolt!  Red line is the route I took:



As for Anasazi, this was mostly a hazing ritual for my buddy who had never been to the park before.  And the allure of a long gear only route drew me in, such a rarity at the Pinns.  It ended up being quite an enjoyable adventure, though I'm still undecided on if I had "fun" on pitch 3.  Can never count out the pitches with no grade in the book...  But the whole time I was eyeing up Berserker, which looks like the true Citadel king line.  Anyone know what those crux bolts look like?
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by Brad Young on March 25, 2026, 02:52:33 PM »
Is there any chance that someone removed bolt hangers from Condor Condiment? That just doesn't seem possible, but neither does not seeing any of the bolts beyond the first???
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Everywhere Else / Re: The Prow, Washington Column TR
« Last post by Marco on March 25, 2026, 02:18:23 PM »
Just posting here because essentially the same TR. Mikayla, Ryan, and I did Skull (Rivet) Queen on Washington Column last weekend. 'Twas a textbook smash and grab. Jk we took it slow over two days. I've found I really enjoy the walls where there is downtime to hangout on bivy ledges, typically allowing me enough time to crack and spill whatever drinks didn't puncture though the hauling process.

Anyways stoked to have another good adventure with good people in the books.

Ryan approaching.


Mik approaching.


Day one, arrived and chilling on dinner ledge. I think it was 80F with no wind at this point so we were cooking.


Mik about to lead the Kor Roof


Jugging P5 fixed line. Obligatory speed goggles photo.


Mik jugging P5, she went much slower due to lack of speed goggles (she's essentially taking a knee here).


Looking down 2nd to last pitch. Technically the crux of the route even though we felt it was two pitches prior.


Mikayla floating the last pitch finger crack. She crushed it.


Obligatory Washington Column climbing sign seen on the approach, in this case descent.


^Ryan grinning ear to ear (definitely not fed up with my shit at this point)

Some take aways:
-Tuna, good for breakfast lunch and dinner
-Transitions are the slowest part of walling
-Having a 3rd person is the way to go walling or you will die of loneliness on the belays and get stuck in your own head
-Hiking pole for the hiking is necessary
-Don't pre haul a bag for the next day push without confirming you took out what you will need for the night, or you may find that your headlamp, toothbrush, and ganja is now 200 feet above you after getting back down to the ledge.
-I enjoy that you can nail C1 at pinnacles and nobody cares, hammering on trade routes is tempting
-Washington column becomes a clusterfuck of people on weekends
-Alpine around sleeping pad w/ a little tape is good for securing
-I am stubborn and will avoid using a 2-1 haul system at all costs
-I have a short memory and forgot the main take aways but also am forgetting the wall pain already
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