Recent Posts

11

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by waldo on April 15, 2025, 04:44:12 PM »

 One of climbing's most satisfying facets, to me, is the puzzle presented by creating a safety system out of gear. Pinnacles climbs are often devoid of this facet — not Condor Condiment. What you can find and make work is crucial, at least to your peace of mind. Holmgren was a genius at finding gear placements. I can still hear his joyful cry of "bomber!" in my dreams when he found a good one, though "bomber" is a decision rendered by Pinnacles rock gods. I recall cursing him roundly on a subsequent ascent without him when I failed to find his red Lowe nut placement on the 2nd pitch. I'm responsible for the runout on pitch one. I placed a couple of bolts and then ran it to the belay niche. It was a lot further than I thought it would be. Also, I recall placing only one bolt on pitch 4. Again, large cams can mitigate the traverse. The day was getting on and we needed to hit the top. Thanks again!

P.S. We spent at least six days working on it. I joined the project after bolt # 3, as I recall.

12

Everywhere Else / Re: LA Spire Direct TR

« Last post by Brad Young on April 15, 2025, 11:14:07 AM »

You've only ever known me as a person in his 60s. And one of the beauties of climbing is that it brings together very disparate people into friend groups. I'd say that I am part of your (and Cole's) friend group. But this version of me (from 1987) could be in your peer group (fewer than two years age difference between this photo and your age):




This guy, Carl, was my first hard-core climbing partner. We did the route in May, when the falls were raging. The big surprise for us was how cold it was as the wind blew through the falls and acted like a huge swamp cooler:




The rock there has changed least of all:




Here, I turned my version 90 degrees and it almost perfectly matches one of your shots (right down to the cracks):




And I napped too:




No stove for us though and the food was? Well hard to get down comes to mind:

13

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Brad Young on April 15, 2025, 11:04:35 AM »

...I think the route has one star currently but I really think it should get two when all of this is taken into account.

Perhaps now the question is: "should the third pitch variation get a star?"

14

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

« Last post by NOAL on April 15, 2025, 10:39:03 AM »

I thought I gave an obvious clue there : "sport climbing".

The moss threw me off.  I usually don't associate moss and sport climbing.  I guess this is partly true for Power Tools because there is a moss entrance fee for the first couple of pitches to get to the sport climbing.

15

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by NOAL on April 15, 2025, 10:30:22 AM »

Thanks Waldo. 

It was a fun project because we had to actually climb the route to do the work vs a lot of other re bolting where you just come in from the top. I think doing this gives insight somewhat to how the route was put up and what that experience may have been like or at least it made me think about it a lot.

Also the two anchor bolts always seemed meek to me, given the exposure. Jack and I rappelled off them down to the gully a number of times but always backed up the anchor for the first guy down with a yellow Alien in a perfect pocket to the right.

I was wondering if you guys rapped from here and then returned another day and then re climbed back to your high point. Before we had Ryan on board I was thinking of rapping from this anchor after the second day of work.

  On the first pitch the scenario in my mind was where there were two bolts close together, the button head being the lowest and a Starr Drive wit a smash link a couple of feet above it would have been the high point for the first day.  We replaced both of these bolts in their same locations which could be useful for climbers who climb the first pitch and want to bail with a single rope.

So it sounds like you guys spent quite a few days working on the route.  Maybe 5 or 6 days total? 

Your work should open a beautiful experience for many!

I agree!  When I look at the to do list for the route on Mt. Project it is on almost 300 climber's lists. There are far less actual ticks.  Hopefully having the new bolts will change some people's minds.  It's a fantastic route.  The pitches are varied, it's a spectacular setting where you can usually see condors, and it ends on one of if not the best summits in the whole park.  There is also an adventurous kind of improbable quality to it like Feather Canyon.  It's remarkable that there are three pitches of quality moderate climbing that get you to a point where you think "how do we get to the summit?" and then all the 4th class stuff after that that makes it possible.  I think the route has one star currently but I really think it should get two when all of this is taken into account. Thanks for putting up such a great route!  I would love to hear any other memories you have from working on it.

16

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by waldo on April 15, 2025, 09:15:42 AM »

Noal, I thank you, Marco and Ryan for undertaking the Condor Condiment rebolting project. Jack and I used the best we could find thirty-five years ago, but I’m relieved and grateful that you’ve made it a far safer climb with modern bolts. I was most worried about the top of the second pitch and the second pitch anchor. Those three buttonheads on the traverse into the belay always made me pucker. Also the two anchor bolts always seemed meek to me, given the exposure. Jack and I rappelled off them down to the gully a number of times but always backed up the anchor for the first guy down with a yellow Alien in a perfect pocket to the right. The second guy had to take his chances. That anchor for the 3rd pitch was sketch, too. We meant to back it up, but I don’t recall that we did. A Lowe nut and an Alien backed up the bolt, as I recall. Jack and I thought it was a fine adventure, but it was years before anyone else went up there. Your work should open a beautiful experience for many! Thanks again!
Waldo

17

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

« Last post by burnsbabe on April 15, 2025, 06:05:16 AM »

This morning when Chris picked me up for some gym climbing, he noticed I was more bubbly on the drive than usual. I guess that's what a fun day of sport climbing at Pinnacles (plus a good night of restorative sleep) can do for me.

I feel that this picture (from yesterday) belongs in this thread.

I'd read some accounts of climbing Power Tools, but hadn't gotten to tackle it myself. That really is an impressively mossy pitch.

18

Everywhere Else / Re: LA Spire Direct TR

« Last post by Marco on April 14, 2025, 08:43:01 PM »

But I was struck at how much a couple of mine looked like a couple of yours.

Post some of them, It would be cool to see a comparison.

Plus I always enjoy seeing those older pictures with a bunch of pins in the wall like that on South Seas.

19

Everywhere Else / Re: LA Spire Direct TR

« Last post by Brad Young on April 14, 2025, 12:59:13 PM »

Every trip report I write on this site I seem to reread semi frequently. Especially when I am at work and in need of some stoke for the weekend or reminiscing on past experiences. Also if written soon enough after the trip, they capture fragments of the adventure that I often forget and can chuckle about later.

Exactly why I do my trip reports.

Well, the above and my mom wants to see them (and I'll bet your mom enjoys yours too).

It's not uncommon for me to go back through my PCT reports to boost my spirits, or to just reminisce. I also go through them now and then to compare conditions and occurrences with the Dawsons as they pass through the same parts of the trail.

20

Everywhere Else / Re: LA Spire Direct TR

« Last post by Brad Young on April 14, 2025, 12:51:50 PM »

I just looked at my photos from the LA Direct thinking that you're already 25 and that I was 25 when I did it.

I was wrong on both counts. I did it in May, 1987 which would have made me 26.

We took many fewer photos (one had to pay to have them developed then). But I was struck at how much a couple of mine looked like a couple of yours.

Yeah, and happy birthday to both of you. No portaledge birthday present though. I can barely afford to eat right now