Recent Posts

41

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

« Last post by clink on September 22, 2025, 05:08:25 AM »

Ryan and I decided to take advantage of the phenomenal conditions yesterday. We figured a good start to Pinnacles season would be doing Forty Days of Rain. After feeling around on it, we both felt it was a bit of a sandbag and were deciding to bail. As we were packing up, this total Brah showed up out of the caves equipped with a crash pad and bongs explaining it took TD 3.5 yrs to redpoint this climb, its best to nail it for your first time around.

He showed us the beta:

40 Days of Rain? Did you do the Noah's No Compass Variation? Libel at The Lip?

Dude, "brahs" gotta be 35 years old or less. That guy in your photo looks old and shriveled. Don't put us on (or don't children these days say "gaslight?").

 Only total Brah's say dude.



 

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

« Last post by Brad Young on September 21, 2025, 04:56:31 PM »

And did you both lead the roof? Kinda hard to clean it, huh?

43

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

« Last post by Brad Young on September 21, 2025, 04:55:36 PM »

Dude, "brahs" gotta be 35 years old or less. That guy in your photo looks old and shriveled. Don't put us on (or don't children these days say "gaslight?").

I laughed at your comment about "primary product" although it's quite sad. I wish it weren't true.

Still not Pinnacles season if you live this close to nice granite. We put up a new, 110 foot, three star 5.7 today (which Joel would not stop ranting about - I thought I was the one who got to rant, not him). About 80 feet of bolted face and then one looks up and the bolts just stop... A few moves up and... holy wow, where did that fantastic crack come from? Nice exposure.

Established another, two star 5.7 and a 5.8 that "could have been a contender." The 5.8 starts with an absolutely gorgeous finger crack in perfect granite that is completely clean.

And then the crack runs out after 20 feet and easy face follows to moderate face. Damn!

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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

« Last post by Marco on September 21, 2025, 10:01:49 AM »

Ryan and I decided to take advantage of the phenomenal conditions yesterday. We figured a good start to Pinnacles season would be doing Forty Days of Rain. After feeling around on it, we both felt it was a bit of a sandbag and were deciding to bail. As we were packing up, this total Brah showed up out of the caves equipped with a crash pad and bongs explaining it took TD 3.5 yrs to redpoint this climb, its best to nail it for your first time around.

He showed us the beta:

We then followed suit. Also not sure where the the crucial #3 goes, we placed other gear but nothing bigger than a #1.








Semi unrelated, I took advantage of Santa Cruz's primary product, cut bike locks. Made a homemade funkness device, that worked well but the thimble came out of place.

Good to get back to this place. Climbing on solid granite is just too exciting for me. Good to get out and do chill cragging with friends again.

45

Everywhere Else / Re: The PCT Volume 21 Redux (First Part): Subverting Murphy (and His Damned Law)

« Last post by mungeclimber on September 18, 2025, 02:15:12 PM »

I believe this is called the Flying Saucer boulder



http://www.supertopo.com/bouldering/boulder_photo.php?bc=tbcoldcn&dpid=Pj07Pz89KCEk

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Everywhere Else / Re: The PCT Volume 21 Redux (First Part): Subverting Murphy (and His Damned Law)

« Last post by Brad Young on September 15, 2025, 06:10:13 AM »

I suppose that I shouldn't be so surprised that Dom found this and posted it on the SPH site - after all, if I can see it from the trail, other climbers can too:

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215001/Forsyth-Peak-Torre-del-Caballo-Salvaje

I did grin to see that my estimate of the height was fairly on.

47

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: route words

« Last post by mungeclimber on September 14, 2025, 02:19:09 PM »

I am well aware of armchair climbers posting incorrect information on Mt. Project.  Not just route descriptions but also on other topics that they have no experience.  Seems that about a year of experience is all it takes for someone to be an expert on climbing now days.  I think this is due to all of the information that is readily available on the internet and social media.  You can now find helmet Go Pro footage of most all moderate trade routes on You Tube. For instance, climbers can now watch someone climb every single pitch of Epinephrine online. 

Used to be you could talk to someone about a route and they could not bullshit you whether they had climbed it . With a few questions you would know if they were full of shit.  As part of climbing ethics people did not claim to do things they had not done.  My stance on climbing and liars is if someone would lie about climbing a route what else would they lie about?  This type of lying is just to stroke someone's ego. A liar or someone not accountable for their own actions is not a good climbing partner and is potentially very dangerous. 

So to answer you question I don't think lack of VR has kept people from posting incorrect info but  I think we will see an increase in this behavior in the future.  Especially if people are able to virtually experience the outdoors in more detail.

Ultimately I really do not care but with one exception,  that being posting route information that could potentially injure or kill someone.   I think that some people posting incorrect information do so with the best intentions in their minds.  They just want to participate by posting something.

Further to Noal's point; I worked indirectly for a sr director that said they climbed a lot. But failed to indicate that all that climbing was done in a climbing gym. Now I always feel compelled to ask; you mean outside, right?  oye

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Everywhere Else / Re: The PCT Volume 21 Redux (First Part): Subverting Murphy (and His Damned Law)

« Last post by mungeclimber on September 14, 2025, 02:15:16 PM »

yes, horse supported, and you should answer my question about dome on that other forum! lol

49

Everywhere Else / Re: The PCT Volume 21 Redux (First Part): Subverting Murphy (and His Damned Law)

« Last post by footie on September 14, 2025, 07:04:05 AM »

Way to hang in there Katie!

50

Everywhere Else / Re: The PCT Volume 21 Redux (First Part): Subverting Murphy (and His Damned Law)

« Last post by Brad Young on September 14, 2025, 06:54:11 AM »

a mere 18 miles, he says 

It wouldn't be unheard of - there are now six or seven multi-pitch routes on The Watchtower two miles to the east (it's a huge outlier to Tower Peak). Over the last 15 years several parties have climbed there by walking in or by having their gear horse-packed in.

EDIT: It's also possible that any significant discussion about climbing back there should be on the Sonora Pass climbing forum