Penguin Handshake

[Atomizer]

Holds have broken over the last few months on Penguin Handshake which was formally 5.11C.  Yesterday two strong climbers who had easily climbed Tailspin (12A) just prior, confirmed that the new grade is 5.12B. Both climbers took multiple falls deciphering the moves.  The climb is now much harder then the neighboring climb Ape Index.

[Brad Young]

Damn. Thanks for the post Atomizer.

On Pinnacles routes it pays to get an early ascent (while the holds are still there). Unfortunately for me, I apparently didn't get my redpoint of the route in early enough, and now I am unlikely to ever get it. BTW, I always thought it was a near-sandbag at 11c, definitely harder than Ape Index, even when it was newly established.

[Atomizer]

I didn't ask whether they still thought of it as a three star route.  I did hear a lot of obscenities coming from that direction while they were at it.  TD admitted to breaking the holds off.

As for the rock of pinnacles in relation to hard climbing, Kelly once told me "If there is something hard that you want to do at Pinnacles then do it now."

[mynameismud]

Penguin Handshake was definitely harder than Ape Index.  I was fortunate to get an early ascent (the 2nd or 3rd).  Ape Index is one hard move.   Penguin Handshake is a sustained sequence of thin knobs.  It was one of the more difficult 11's, conservative at 11c but was not as difficult as Daddy Long Legs.

I have not been on it in a while.

[F4?]

Bummer. That is a cool route.

Climbing super hard routes at the Pinns is an art. While some holds are great for the hands......you can't use them for feet. The true art is deciding as you are super pumped to put your feet on knob or on a smaller less secure feature.

There should also be a weight limit to some routes....

Of course Mr Mud weights nothing so that wouldn't keep him off stuff.

[joe]

yeah, I was belaying Tom when he broke off the holds, not a pretty sight...

[Atomizer]

Correction 5.12A/B, whatever that means. 

I thought the Monolith was exempted from weight limits

[mynameismud]

Was that exemption signed off in triplicate?

[Atomizer]

I weigh 138 TD probably weighs 140-45. I say the cut off should be 140 lbs for the monolith.  It will be like an amusement park with turnstiles on each side of the trail. instead of a height line you get a scale.

[F4?]

that still won't keep the feral rat off. the guy weights maybe 130 wet?

I joke about the weigths because Karl who put of Gorillas isn't a light weight.

Then there's that Chris guy....

[squiddo]

that still won't keep the feral rat off. the guy weights maybe 130 wet?

I joke about the weigths because Karl who put of Gorillas isn't a light weight.

Then there's that Chris guy....

Belizzi!

[mynameismud]

The difference is Karl is strong as an Ox, has an incredible reach, really good core, and is obviously a fairly decent climber.

Not that those other guys are not, it is just that Karl is a special case.

Chris is no light weight but when dialed has impressive foot work.

Clint is at best 130 wet.

I have almost always been about a buck fifty.

[Atomizer]

It is the short people that care about weight limits.  Tall people just reach past all the friable holds the fat short people break off.  There is nothing more frustrating then watching some tall person reach past all those moves I have to do sometimes.

[squiddo]

It is the short people that care about weight limits.  Tall people just reach past all the friable holds the fat short people break off.  There is nothing more frustrating then watching some tall person reach past all those moves I have to do sometimes.

Someone like, say Brad?

[Brad Young]

First bolt, Rollerball. Easy clip.

[squiddo]

First bolt, Rollerball. Easy clip.

oh man, yeah that clip is a tough one. I don't think I've ever climbed up and down for a crux .10b in my life.