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Author Topic: East side on Tuesday ?  (Read 38566 times)

F4?

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #40 on: January 02, 2011, 07:51:47 PM »
How was double cross with the new bolts?
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mungeclimber

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #41 on: January 02, 2011, 08:10:13 PM »
solid, a real improvement to be sure.

heh
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F4?

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #42 on: January 02, 2011, 08:19:04 PM »
With your D5 hammer(s).
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rhyang

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #43 on: January 19, 2011, 07:39:53 AM »
I was telling a friend about following the 10a route on Gertie's Pinnacle and how I weighted a hold that blew and sent me flying.

Squiddo yells down asking if I'm ok or need to be lowered.  "It's OK, I just blew a hold."

"You gonna buy that ?"

"What ??"

"You break it, you buy it !"

 ;D
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skully

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #44 on: January 19, 2011, 08:46:31 AM »
Squiddo has good comedic reflexes. ;D
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squiddo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #45 on: January 19, 2011, 09:12:49 AM »
HA HA
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waldo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #46 on: January 19, 2011, 09:11:29 PM »
Nice pics of Condor Condiment!  Jack and I were quite pleased with this baby.  The original 5.7 finish to the 3rd pitch was a true horror.  We went back and put up the 10a later.  That's a much saner way to go.  I led pitches one and four.  Pitch two, the crux, was all Jack.  In subsequent leads I never did find all the gear placements he did. 
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F4?

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #47 on: January 20, 2011, 05:59:09 PM »
Quote
Pitch two, the crux, was all Jack.  In subsequent leads I never did find all the gear placements he did.

Me too. I was suprised how creative he must have been.

The 10a is a saner variation??? Jeepers! The thought of him going 1 more move to place the bolt.....

The bolts need to be replaced on this baby and more traffic.
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rhyang

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #48 on: October 30, 2011, 09:23:50 PM »
Kind of a warm day, but I went back and did Condor Condiment today.  What a fun route !  The approach was a bushwhack though.  Some pics :

p1


p2


p3


p4 - did some kinda exposed traverse/downclimb thing


Wandered around looking for the Fault Zone, then realized it was right under our noses.  The 5.8 hand crack was delicious -



Awesome day !
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mungeclimber

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #49 on: October 30, 2011, 09:29:30 PM »
nice Rob. yowza that p4 traverse thing doesn't ring a bell at all.


what kind of gear on p3 did you end up using?
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mynameismud

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #50 on: October 31, 2011, 08:20:11 AM »
Looks like a good day.  That is a surprisingly good route.
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joe

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #51 on: October 31, 2011, 11:27:09 AM »
both are fun routes, good on ya...
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mynameismud

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #52 on: October 31, 2011, 12:51:49 PM »
The traverse pitch is really good.
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squiddo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #53 on: October 31, 2011, 12:55:43 PM »
Quote from: My Name is Mud on October 31, 2011, 12:51:49 PM
The traverse pitch is really good.

is that the variation to the final headwall? I need to get on that and with all the gear!
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mynameismud

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #54 on: October 31, 2011, 02:39:51 PM »
Nope the pitch leading up to that pitch.
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rhyang

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #55 on: October 31, 2011, 04:44:47 PM »
I thought the traverse on p2 was really good -- thrilling exposure.  Partner placed some cams (including the #4) and a tricam (his first ever, yahoo).

I placed a cam or two on p3, but otherwise clipped bolts.  Think I did the 10a variation, but it didn't feel 10a to me, so I either did it wrong, or all the bouldering at the gym has been paying off  ;D

The traverse on the last pitch was funky, not quite sure we did it the way the FA-ists did, but hey it was fun.

Made the mistake of rapping from the summit all the way down to the chockstone .. the rope wouldn't pull from there.  My partner soloed up the chimney on the left to the other rap station near the tree and managed to free it.  A lot of friction going over that edge.
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