Author Topic: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.  (Read 9595 times)

cobbledik

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #20 on: January 16, 2012, 09:52:26 AM »
I will admit that my legs were shaking and I was freaked out when I finally got to the redirect bolt. I try to take that into account when I think back to the pure movement. There was many thoughts of "5.9 my ass" and "well, this isn't the 5.9 way" as I was moving from the last good handholds. I'm only 5'8" (5'9" if there's ladies around) so I may not have moved through the same sequence as you guys. For some reason I always think of Wet Kiss as my baseline 5.9 grade at the Pinns.

No matter the grade, the moves there were the highlight of the route for me. I climbed up, cursed, then downclimbed back to my ladder at least 3 times before sending it. I def felt like I was climbing in a gym (because I had to think about how my body was moving and make small adjustments to progress forward which is easy when the holds are marked and secure) and not simply grabbing big or small holds and pulling up.

Working on the trip report in Starbucks right now.

- - -
Thank you Jim, Brad, Erik, and Dennis for a great route.

Brad Young

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #21 on: January 16, 2012, 11:28:25 AM »
You know, you raise a nice point.

Someday I'll do another new route at Pinnacles, something in the 5.10c range. When I do, when I find the right route, I intend to honor my friends Jim and Dennis by naming the route "Five Nine My Ass."

mynameismud

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #22 on: January 16, 2012, 03:23:11 PM »
But he will call it 10c and it will be 10a.
Here's to sweat in your eye

cobbledik

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2012, 03:39:51 PM »
10c is the A3+ of moderate trad.

mungeclimber

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #24 on: January 16, 2012, 04:51:00 PM »
I thought it was 5.9+?  ??? ;D
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #25 on: January 16, 2012, 04:57:04 PM »
Yes 5.9+
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #26 on: January 16, 2012, 05:05:51 PM »
Now let's all be nice to Dennis. He had an accident when he was little and his voice won't pronounce any climb ratings other than "5.9+" and "5.10d."

squiddo

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Re: Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.
« Reply #27 on: January 16, 2012, 05:06:32 PM »
Classic Brad
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber