Author Topic: It's ON!...  (Read 6552 times)

JC w KC redux

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It's ON!...
« on: October 07, 2012, 11:51:40 AM »
the gang of four is officially declaring the PINNS season OPEN...
we had a blast yesterday...

JC led No Plan B 5.9 onsight without knowing the rating (we figured it was 8 or 9)...

got the "shaky Jakes" a few moves into it...no falls and plenty of adrenalin!





KC led her first 5.8 - pitch 1 of Tilting Terrace...





Aaron onsighted Rebecca's Sailing while KC and I took a run up Cool Daze...





and i saved the best for last - Crux Luv returns!!!

One wheel shy of "normal"

mynameismud

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2012, 01:24:53 PM »
A good opening day.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2012, 05:29:23 PM »
We'll be there soon enough. But first a few more FAs up here.

I did a perfect lead of a new, 70 foot high 5.10a offwidth yesterday. We all agreed that it was three stars out of three stars for sure (clean, long and sustained).

Still, I nearly puked, and so did Joel. Alan just grunted a bunch coming up it. After a green Alien in a side crack 10 feet up, the gear was two #5 Camalots, a #6 Camalot, a #4.5 Camalot, and a #6 Camalot. At one point I knew I was going to come flying out of the crack, but I just accepted it and pushed on. And I didn't come out.

When we came home, three of us got out of the car and Vicki just started laughing. I guess we were all hobbling pretty badly. I'm sore as hell today, even in places where I didn't think I had muscles.

Loose rock is sounding good right about now.

And big congrats to KC for the lead!

rhyang

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2012, 06:25:39 PM »
Looks like some good times  8)

CruxLuv

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2012, 08:21:11 PM »
I'm sore as hell today, even in places where I didn't think I had muscles.

I hear ya. 

Yesterday was awesome and rekindled all my Luv for that loose stuff.
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

JC w KC redux

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2012, 08:15:58 AM »

Still, I nearly puked, and so did Joel.
a green Alien, two #5 Camalots, a #6 Camalot, a #4.5 Camalot, and a #6 Camalot.

And big congrats to KC for the lead!

great abbreviated TR!

hope you didn't mess up your perfect tan!

that's a pricey lead :)  i count about $600 and change...

KC will definitely appreciate the kudos.

One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2012, 10:08:41 AM »
great abbreviated TR!

hope you didn't mess up your perfect tan!

that's a pricey lead :)  i count about $600 and change...

KC will definitely appreciate the kudos.



Tan is intact, partially because of my secret, offwidth crack weapon (wear a thick rugby shirt that is one size too small).

More than the dollars, it was the weight of the gear that was intimidating (that's a lot of weight to start a climb with). After I finished I decided to call the route "Heavy Mettle." The spelling is intentional.

So, what got into KC that she jumped so many grades in her leading? I'm very impressed. And it was also good to see Cruxluv clinging to a big loadstone, smiling like she was enjoying it.

JC w KC redux

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2012, 12:15:26 PM »
Tan is intact.

More than the dollars, it was the weight of the gear that was intimidating (that's a lot of weight to start a climb with). After I finished I decided to call the route "Heavy Mettle." The spelling is intentional.

So, what got into KC that she jumped so many grades in her leading? I'm very impressed. And it was also good to see Cruxluv clinging to a big loadstone, smiling like she was enjoying it.

Glad your savage tan is still rockin'!

You're right - that is a lot of weight - great name!!

As far as KC jumping grades - we'd climbed TT twice before with me leading and she wasn't sure at first - but then she looked over the moves to the first bolt and decided to give it a go. When we both got to tier 2 and I asked her if she wanted to lead Cool Daze she quickly replied "Hell no!"
She followed it clean though and it was good for me to lead it again. I think it's the toughest route on tier 2.

Crux Luv had big fun and it was good to see her back out on the rock.

Nice job on the oh dub :)
One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2012, 12:24:32 PM »

As far as KC jumping grades - we'd climbed TT twice before with me leading and she wasn't sure at first - but then she looked over the moves to the first bolt and decided to give it a go.


Tell KC for us that we all look forward to her next big skills jump, namely her first lead fall. Remind her to scream while it is going on.

mungeclimber

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2012, 07:43:54 PM »

More than the dollars, it was the weight of the gear that was intimidating (that's a lot of weight to start a climb with). After I finished I decided to call the route "Heavy Mettle." The spelling is intentional.



mayhaps, it looked like this...

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: It's ON!...
« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2012, 09:00:03 PM »
Oh, wow, now that's a Pinns route that is as loose as it comes. I'd never do that one again (all 5.8 climbs are NOT created equal).