Looks like that's a wedge bolt going in on the route. I am not a big fan of wedge bolts at the Pinnacles because of the soft rock so I use 5-piece Rawls/Powers bolts. How do others feel about the use of wedge bolts?
The one shown in the photo is a wedge bolt (not a compression bolt like what was placed a lot in the 70s and 80s). In this case it's a 3" by 3/8" Hilti, stainless steel.
I rarely place them in Pinns rock because they are shorter than what I usually use - the long stainless Rawls.
But, where a hole is really good, I'll use them. That hole and two others on this route were really good (one was an anchor bolt). For example, none of the three holes in which we placed these bolts "cratered" more than a millimeter (how often does that happen in Pinns rock?). Each tightened beautifully with less than a full turn of the nut. In other words, in a good hole, their wedge action is excellent, very tight. I'm very satisfied that, in the right hole, they're as good as Rawls.
