Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!

[mungeclimber]

thx Brad!

Some day maybe you'll let me use your journal to recap some of my earlier days and jog some memories. 


ION,

I seem to recall having lead the "5.9" (#745) using a 5.7 variant finish with the old lady one trip. But I note that the variant isn't listed in the book.

More's the shame because it makes the other moderates on the lower section of Toogs maintain a moderate rating to the summit without having to do the Terror finish.

I think that would be a nice addition to the corrections section. Thoughts?

[MUCCI]

I was hanging it out there on the wolf.  Glad you sent!  Lars took a winger on the top section and tested my bolt.

It held.

[mungeclimber]

a guy walked up as we were doing the route "Mark" that had met you, apparently. He had a friend take a winger off the top bolt. Had to have been Lars.

[JC w KC redux]

ION,

I seem to recall having lead the "5.9" (#745) using a 5.7 variant finish with the old lady one trip. But I note that the variant isn't listed in the book.

More's the shame because it makes the other moderates on the lower section of Toogs maintain a moderate rating to the summit without having to do the Terror finish.

I think that would be a nice addition to the corrections section. Thoughts?

WTF is ION? In other news?
Are you talking about the Gallery Direct Finish # 765?
Where is the variant?
Do you weenie out along that ledge after the 2nd bolt?
Left or Right?

[JC w KC redux]

I was hanging it out there on the wolf.  Glad you sent!  Lars took a winger on the top section and tested my bolt.
It held.

a guy walked up as we were doing the route "Mark" that had met you, apparently. He had a friend take a winger off the top bolt. Had to have been Lars.

I don't get it. I didn't think the route was hard - just a committing move on what you're calling the upper part - what I call the Wolf's Tooth.

[mungeclimber]

WTF is ION? In other news?
Are you talking about the Gallery Direct Finish # 765?
Where is the variant?
Do you weenie out along that ledge after the 2nd bolt?
Left or Right?

maybe it's 765, no sure. working now.

yep, clip first two, then go right on the ramp to join the last moves of Toog's Terror (above the tree climbing).

[JC w KC redux]

maybe it's 765, no sure. working now.

yep, clip first two, then go right on the ramp to join the last moves of Toog's Terror (above the tree climbing).

Makes sense - that avoids the crux shown on the topo - but honestly if you've made it that far without falling you can do the crux

[mungeclimber]

A 5.7 leader could do the '5.9' direct finish?


I've only done one of the lower toog routes, the 5.8.

[MUCCI]

JC-

I don't get it. I didn't think the route was hard - just a committing move on what you're calling the upper part - what I call the Wolf's Tooth.

I did that FA solo, and on stance.  It was a very heady FA, maybe one of my more proud routes I have bolted at the pinns.

Technically easy yes, but when I climbed it on the FA, there was nobody in the park, not even a ranger at the kiosk.  The top out, as proven by lars, was the section where it became very serious for me on the redpoint.

[MUCCI]

That 5.9 finish on toogs is good, and easy for the grade.

I thought all of those toog routes were "obscure" and a bit stiff.

[mungeclimber]

oh, btw, the one good solid knob that you grab right after clipping the last bolt, before stepping up onto the top moves, broke a little on it's left side.

[JC w KC redux]

A 5.7 leader could do the '5.9' direct finish?
I've only done one of the lower toog routes, the 5.8.

There's only one 7 on Toog's - Toog's Alligator. I'm just sayin' that I thought the moves below the 5.9 crux shown on the topo were pretty stiff on lead. I remember almost having sewing machine leg - stemmed out and moving up through the first couple bolts. It's committing as hell. 

I too have only done one lower route - Toog's Gallery (the 5. and that was before the rebolt. 

[JC w KC redux]

I did that FA solo, and on stance.  It was a very heady FA, maybe one of my more proud routes I have bolted at the pinns.

Yer a wild man :0 - Virtual BIG fist bump!

[MUCCI]

That is what makes climbing so cool.

You can have a life changing moment while on a 5.7 and nobody will every know why but you!

Hahahhaha

Only route I ever rope soloed in the pinns, I had enough after that route.