Beginner Routes

[Killer K]

I apologize in advance if this is a boring question..

What are the best beginner routes on the eastside rated 5.5/5.6ish and lower? I'm taking my girlfriend and she has very little experience climbing. I think that Portent would be way to hard for her. Looking for short sweet and fun.

So far I've looked at Teaching Rock, the Center Route of the First Sister (to the midway anchor because she has no rapelling experience), the Fourth Class route on the backside of Tiburcio's X, and some routes on the Sponge formation.

[JC w KC redux]

I apologize in advance if this is a boring question..

What are the best beginner routes on the eastside rated 5.5/5.6ish and lower? I'm taking my girlfriend and she has very little experience climbing. I think that Portent would be way to hard for her. Looking for short sweet and fun.

So far I've looked at Teaching Rock, the Center Route of the First Sister (to the midway anchor because she has no rapelling experience), the Fourth Class route on the backside of Tiburcio's X, and some routes on the Sponge formation.

4th class on Tiburcio's is definitely fun. There's a new 5.6 on Tib's - Tiburcio's Y but following the runout after the last bolt might spook her. Check out Your Sister and Kid Sister in the new routes - 5.5 and 5.6. From the anchor for those routes you can go up a little further and do the West Face on 4th Sister 5.5 - I think that route is great for beginners and star worthy(even though it doesn't get a star in Brad's book). If you go up there you could also do Fletcher's new route on the 5th Sister outlier - One for the Bambinos 5.2. The Sponge 5.6 is fun and you could TR Holes. The 5.0 is a bit airy along the arête for a newbie. Burgundy Dome is classic 5.7. Long way to go on a hot day but I love the High Peaks. Kermit is a good climb to teach rappelling. Miss Piggy is fun too (5.5) and Abuela Cochinita (new route) is right next to it although maybe a little iffy for a newb since it traverses and it's 5.8 (I think it's 5.7). Dragonfly Dome is right there too (5.7).  Either of those spots will keep you busy. If you didn't want to hike to the High Peaks and got all the Sisters stuff done - Upper Crust you could do Nodal Line and then TR When in Doubt Run it Out and Japanese Water Torture.

[mungeclimber]

I apologize in advance if this is a boring question..

What are the best beginner routes on the eastside rated 5.5/5.6ish and lower? I'm taking my girlfriend and she has very little experience climbing. I think that Portent would be way to hard for her. Looking for short sweet and fun.

So far I've looked at Teaching Rock, the Center Route of the First Sister (to the midway anchor because she has no rapelling experience), the Fourth Class route on the backside of Tiburcio's X, and some routes on the Sponge formation.

Teaching Rock for sure, easy TR set up.
First Sister for sure. Top out and lower her, then you rap?
Carousel has a couple easy lines on it.
Anvil for a summit type of experience. Mark fixed up the anchor.

[JC w KC redux]

Teaching Rock for sure, easy TR set up.
First Sister for sure. Top out and lower her, then you rap?
Carousel has a couple easy lines on it.
Anvil for a summit type of experience. Mark fixed up the anchor.

I personally don't like Teaching Rock and if it's the weekend - potentially swamped with group activity - Boy Scouts, REI, etc. There is however a route worth doing on the backside - Sinbad 5.6 - as long as you're comfortable with some exposure at the start before the first bolt. I'm assuming you have Brad's book and aren't using the Rubine Guide.
Carousel? there's two 10b TR's - not sure what line Rob is referencing.

I think you guys could get the most bang for your buck at The Sisters. There's a lot of routes at the grade you're seeking. If you run out of things to do, the 2nd Sister NW Chimney 4th class is fun if you want a little adventure. I slung a couple knobs to direct the rope away from some small PO near the bottom and then finished on the 5.7 1st Sister Backside Route (really short but exciting). Anvil is cool if you're comfortable soloing 5.3. As I recall - the anchors are in a weird place - nowhere near the route. It's a great place to learn the Pinnacles rappel. Mark Fletcher recently added some hangers and chains to some existing bolt studs - but I don't remember seeing them when I did the route. I used body position to belay my follower and a Pinns rappel to get down. 

[mungeclimber]

JC, just because it isn't in the book doesn't mean there isn't an existing line, especially when it comes to TRs.

[Killer K]

Thanks for all the help guys!

Munge, as far as the Center Route on the First Sister do you think a 70M could lower the second on the reservoir side of the face to the ground? I've done the route before and have rapped the backside. It would be too sketchy for her. Any idea if the midway anchor before the headwall could be used to TR the lower half of the formation with a 70M? If I remember right it looked possible..

Just trying to avoid any uncertainties that could possibly lead to a breakdown... FYI I am an experienced climber of approx. 15 yrs.

[mungeclimber]

Thanks for all the help guys!

Munge, as far as the Center Route on the First Sister do you think a 70M could lower the second on the reservoir side of the face to the ground? I've done the route before and have rapped the backside. It would be too sketchy for her. Any idea if the midway anchor before the headwall could be used to TR the lower half of the formation with a 70M? If I remember right it looked possible..

Just trying to avoid any uncertainties that could possibly lead to a breakdown... FYI I am an experienced climber of approx. 15 yrs.

Just to be clear, do you mean lower thru an anchor while you're on the ground?  I don't think they are long enough to run a TR that way, but admittedly last time I was there I had a 60m. I do recall lowering (where I was at the top anchor) my partner to the ground. I'm not sure if we used the midway (she may have ended up clipping in, while I rigged my rap).  If she's not kosher doing that and you need to control everything, yeah just go to the midway anchor. You can definitely TR the lower half from the midway with a 70m, no question on that.

[Killer K]

Yes I was talking about leading to the summit anchor and having her follow up to me. Then lowering her through the anchor down the front side of the formation to the ground. Having her untie then I would rap the backside.

[JC w KC redux]

Yes I was talking about leading to the summit anchor and having her follow up to me. Then lowering her through the anchor down the front side of the formation to the ground. Having her untie then I would rap the backside.

Killa - you can get down in two raps with a 60m. Summit to midway, midway to ground. Neither pitch is too long for a 60.

[clink]

First Sister to the midway anchor. Back side of Tiburcio's. Where's Dave? Direct Route Monolith.Nodal Line.

[JC w KC redux]

First Sister to the midway anchor. Back side of Tiburcio's. Where's Dave? Direct Route Monolith.Nodal Line.

The best part of 1st Sister Center route is pitch 2! I guess in terms of safety though a TR to the midway would be better for a beginner since the hardest move is probably stepping onto the face from the boulder. If you're all the way at the top there's mondo rope stretch at the start. She might get a kick out of doing it in two pitches.

I forgot about Where's Dave. That is a fun route (new routes). Mugshot (another new route) is just up the hill 5.7*

If you haven't done those new short routes on the 3rd and the 5th Sister outliers I think you will like them.
She could even lead Fletcher's new route - 5.2, short and top anchor at the lip with rings - designed for kids.