Author Topic: Walking Access to top of Balconies?  (Read 6973 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #20 on: December 07, 2020, 04:01:21 PM »
The beauty of Hook and Drill bolts....if old they need to be replaced. No sense mulling what they are.
It's a good route. Worthy prize.
I'd lead it.

My thoughts exactly as far as the bolts go. I replaced some Beyer bolts on the Frog that made me shiver.
Just thought I would share my recent observations since I know memories can be fleeting.
I thought the first bolt on Papa Bear - April Fools was the same as the second (with binocs) - I could tell it was a stud with a nut but the size? You're never totally sure until you get to it. I remember spotting the first bolt on the Tunnel Traverse and thinking it didn't look that bad. Then I got up there and had an oh shit moment. Classic Pinns garbage. Same thing happened at Tuff Dome Traverse. All that stuff has been replaced  :thumbup: :arf:
 
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Runout

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #21 on: December 07, 2020, 04:41:17 PM »
The guide shows the top anchor on Resurrection as "manzanita". That seems a little sketchy for mini-trax. Anyone know if there is a solid belay up there (not sure that I'll even have time to hit Resurrection)?


F4?

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #22 on: December 07, 2020, 04:57:03 PM »
When I did it in 2009, not there were no top anchors that I remember.

HoMan, to mini trax the entire route, that would build some endurance.

Issue with Resurrection route is it traverses at the top.

If you had time.....and serious balls, rap into the route and work pitches 2-3.

Cool route and worth the 1st pitch for admission. Bruce and Clint and Adam?? Finished replacing the bolts.

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NOAL

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #23 on: December 07, 2020, 05:09:36 PM »
This is from Bruce in the rebolting thread:

Quote
We added two bolts with SS quick links and rappel rings on top of the rock for a rappel descent.  The bolts are located about 50 feet northwest of the two bolts added by Brad and Adam when they were up there a few years ago.  The bolts are right at the lip of the top of the wall and it is a bit sketchy getting down to them.  It is probably best to belay from a 5" oak about 80 feet above the bolts.  You can rap about 190' directly down to the top of Pitch 2 and then rap about 185' to the ground from there with double 60m ropes

F4?

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #24 on: December 07, 2020, 05:13:20 PM »
Thanks Noal, I had suspected something was added.
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Brad Young

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #25 on: December 07, 2020, 05:20:49 PM »
Adam and I put those two bolts in after the top anchor manzanita died. We then used them to get down to the top anchor for the first pitch and rebolted that pitch.

Brad Young

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #26 on: December 07, 2020, 06:16:16 PM »
Posting on my phone while Vicki drives and I can’t seem to work with the quote function.

John, I’m pretty sure I know where those upper bolts are - above the last, eight foot high, class four hump. My focus once I got up that was moving out toward Hook and Drill. So although I looked for upper bolts below that hump, I didn’t look for any above.

mynameismud

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #27 on: December 07, 2020, 07:23:50 PM »
Is it possible to get to the top of the Balconies routes by approaching from the left up past If We Bolt It?  I thought I had done that before.
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Brad Young

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #28 on: December 07, 2020, 08:23:08 PM »
Yes. Walk past The Inn Crowd to the north. Uphill to a point above a bunch of low angle ribs. Two of these can be descended class four (both are pretty high and exposed).  Move over to the top of the short second tier. Find the top of the short 5.6 there and rap from a small oak about 30 feet. Now on top of the first tier.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #29 on: December 07, 2020, 08:36:10 PM »
John, I’m pretty sure I know where those upper bolts are - above the last, eight foot high, class four hump. My focus once I got up that was moving out toward Hook and Drill. So although I looked for upper bolts below that hump, I didn’t look for any above.

That sounds right.
Was there a lead bolt between those anchors on the ramp that Noal and I missed?
I asked once already but maybe you forgot to answer with all the other info in the post.
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Brad Young

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #30 on: December 07, 2020, 08:46:39 PM »
I think it’s gotta be a memory issue. The one lead bolt is 20 or
25 feet up and left from the two bolt lower anchor that you posted photos of. It’s on light colored rock and is rusty and so hard to miss. I suspect you saw it and don’t now remember?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #31 on: December 07, 2020, 08:59:30 PM »
I think it’s gotta be a memory issue. The one lead bolt is 20 or
25 feet up and left from the two bolt lower anchor that you posted photos of. It’s on light colored rock and is rusty and so hard to miss. I suspect you saw it and don’t now remember?

Thanks for confirming.
Not a memory issue (this time).
Nothing in my notes and we went across that thing more than once (two trips up there).
I posted one pic of the rope strung across there and I don't see anything.
We were just glad to have the anchors so we had some kind of protection and probably weren't expecting or looking for a lead bolt on something that easy. If I had clipped something in there I would have mentioned it in my log  :yesnod:
Good to know there is something to break up that stretch.
Can't wait to drag a crowbar and tuning forks up there to remove all those star dryvins - NOT!
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Brad Young

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #32 on: December 07, 2020, 09:01:58 PM »
I think that doing that would be (yet another) massive public service.

Gavin

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #33 on: December 07, 2020, 10:05:51 PM »
Yes. Walk past The Inn Crowd to the north. Uphill to a point above a bunch of low angle ribs. Two of these can be descended class four (both are pretty high and exposed).  Move over to the top of the short second tier. Find the top of the short 5.6 there and rap from a small oak about 30 feet. Now on top of the first tier.

Would it be worth placing a rappel anchor for this instead of using the small tree? Every time I have used that small tree I feel a bit sketched out, wondering if the tree will give this time.

If there is any support for this idea I would be willing to go up there and place an equalized anchor at the top of the 5.6 to allow safe rappelling to the top of the first tier.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #34 on: December 08, 2020, 07:09:57 AM »
Would it be worth placing a rappel anchor for this instead of using the small tree? Every time I have used that small tree I feel a bit sketched out, wondering if the tree will give this time.

If there is any support for this idea I would be willing to go up there and place an equalized anchor at the top of the 5.6 to allow safe rappelling to the top of the first tier.

I think any climb that uses a tree for an anchor (and in some instances for pro) needs bolts added.
Installing an anchor is not changing the climb and for the long term it's the right thing to do.
I have already done it on several routes where trees have died or need to be protected from potential damage.
The other issue is rebolting a climb that uses a tree for an anchor or has no anchor. I simply will not do it - or I will install an anchor at my expense. It's a small price to pay and does nothing to alter the actual climbing.
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F4?

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #35 on: December 08, 2020, 10:07:29 AM »
Gavin, I totally support the idea and would be open to help.

In this day and age.....anchoring off of scrub trees???

Make the rappel anchor start from the path, so you get to that spot on a rope.

Just my .02

My hidden agenda, start making videos of folks climbing some of these cool routes.
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Brad Young

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #36 on: December 08, 2020, 12:09:21 PM »
As time goes by we realize more and more that trees aren't usually good pro and aren't good or appropriate for anchors ("usually," exceptions exist to most rules, and a huge and healthy tree might be an adequate anchor for a very rarely done route).

But it's important to balance this realization against the ethic of not adding bolts to routes established by other people (an ethic that has very likely saved the element of adventure in climbing as a sport - a different and longer discussion, not for this thread).

Here, the balancing isn't even close. No-one knows who did the FA of this 30 foot high route. No-one actually knows for sure that anyone did any more than place a bolt in that short streak. And no-one knows what "they" did or didn't do for any necessary top anchor (the damn bolt looks like it could be older than the three-inch diameter tree!). I've rapped off that tree several times and also wondered if it would hold. And even "once-in-a-while" raps can't be good for its health.

I know of no person who would object to adding a quality anchor there. I am, however, going to be making some phone calls on another Pinnacles subject, this week, to known and concerned Pinns climbers who are not on this site. I'll ask their thoughts (mostly as a courtesy?) on this issue too and report back any negative comments (don't expect any report back, but give it a week or two just in case?).

And thanks Gavin for being willing to do the work.


Gavin

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Re: Walking Access to top of Balconies?
« Reply #37 on: December 09, 2020, 08:31:52 AM »
Thanks for the feedback JC, F4, and Brad.

Brad: I'm fine with waiting a week or two if that makes sense. Just let me know if / when you hear back any comments and I'll be happy to add a solid anchor there afterwards.