Author Topic: Pinnacles season over?  (Read 18186 times)

F4?

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Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #20 on: May 01, 2007, 12:06:00 PM »
Quote
mudworm wrote:

F4? wrote:

Maybe the Mudworm would like to climb there?  





Sounds good, but I've quit gym long time ago...




Weak! We don't mark the holds with tape there.



Oh Mungie...seeings the Pass is going to be closed. How about some basalt cracks?
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #21 on: May 01, 2007, 03:32:39 PM »
I don't know.





This is fcking up my program.





I already sent an email to the district cal trans office.





They've got miles and miles closed, but I mean really, how much really needs closing?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #22 on: May 03, 2007, 11:35:51 AM »
Season is not over, heading down again this weekend.
Whooo Hooooooo
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #23 on: May 07, 2007, 09:51:46 PM »
"Season is not over, heading down again this weekend."

Did you get on Ranger Bolts? You know at some point you need to at least touch the climb, maybe clip a bolt or two, chalk a hold. ;D



I'm not worthy.

joe

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #24 on: May 08, 2007, 06:18:55 AM »
not yet.  gorgeous on the west side Sunday. 
although in an attempt to climb new (to me) routes I find myself questioning why put up something that goes straight through a tree and raps over poison oak (lucky 13) or rains rock on your belayer (Beyond Destiny)?

mungeclimber

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #25 on: May 08, 2007, 07:49:27 AM »
not yet.  gorgeous on the west side Sunday. 
although in an attempt to climb new (to me) routes I find myself questioning why put up something that goes straight through a tree and raps over poison oak (lucky 13) or rains rock on your belayer (Beyond Destiny)?


the PO has grown over the last several seasons (not my route, but I do like it). The branches have grown as well. The line used to be a bolt ladder.

Beyond Destiny raining rocks?  really?  It was a little mossy last I did it, but no loose rock really.

that's cool you got out tho.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #26 on: May 08, 2007, 08:44:17 AM »
Good to see you got out and glad you got on the new Forum, Welcome.

My plan was to go down to the Pins last weekend but car problems shut me down.

not yet.  gorgeous on the west side Sunday. 
although in an attempt to climb new (to me) routes I find myself questioning why put up something that goes straight through a tree and raps over poison oak (lucky 13) or rains rock on your belayer (Beyond Destiny)?
Here's to sweat in your eye

joe

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #27 on: May 08, 2007, 05:33:02 PM »
not wanting to diss anyone's routes.  truly appreciative of all the work that the route setter's (and ASCA folk) put in.  and of course, I know what to expect at the pinns.  I think my disappointment with Beyond Destiny was that we ran into Jennifer and crew and they told us about a newer (not in the book) 10+/11- that we were hoping to do and ended up on Beyond Destiny not knowing what it was.  Lucky 13 had some great opening moves on fairly decent rock.

rumor has it that the new guide will be out in June with all these great new routes, like "The Embarrassment of Riches".  True?

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #28 on: May 08, 2007, 06:08:59 PM »
"Rumor has it?" Who starts such rumors?

The rumors are wrong. It looks likely that the guidebook will go to the printer in June. About 8 weeks later it will be done - in time for next Pinns season. My big decision now is whether to print 35 copies (one for each of my friends), or to stick with the 4200 copies I told the printing company.

Hey, Joe, welcome to the Forum. Could I make a polite request? Climbing routes are not "set." Artificial routes in the gym may be set, but not actual climbing routes. Now, I admit that I am being picky, and that my age is probably showing, but most of us on this forum are really old, so if you want to fit in...

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #29 on: May 08, 2007, 06:15:12 PM »
And, it matters. "Setting" routes in the gym is often a top down process involving little but labor. Especially at Pinns, where rap bolting will (hopefully) get the offending party killed, "setting" implies all the wrong things.

And who is Jennnifer?

joe

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #30 on: May 08, 2007, 07:14:11 PM »
Hey Brad,
Good work on the book.  Looking forward. 
How many Pinns routes have you done to date at this point?

Jennifer, Asian women, (and Sonya?) said that she climbs with you when you can't find a "good partner". 
Where is the mythical new 10+/11- near those routes?

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #31 on: May 08, 2007, 07:54:55 PM »
Jennifer! She's great She's been an unbelievable help traipsing all over the Monument with me for the last two seasons. She been dirtly, tick infested, cut up and lost, all trying to help me get stuff done. And all the while laughing about it.

Um, my route count as of the end of this season is 741. (This is routes I've lead, redpoint or better, except as to the few routes there that exist only as topropes. It doesn't count 30 or 40 routes I've been on but not climbed in good style.)

Do I know you Joe? Are you the Joe I've run into a few times on the East Side? I've spoken with you about the route Pickpocket in particular?

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #32 on: May 08, 2007, 08:01:05 PM »
The answer to your last question is the route Robots of Dawn, 5.11a. It's up and right about 150 feet from where you were climbing. If you walked/scrambled to the right off Beyond Destiny, you walked within 20 feet of the start. It's just left of the 5.11b first pitch of Son of Dawn Wall.

joe

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Re: Pinnacles season over?
« Reply #33 on: May 09, 2007, 09:39:00 AM »
Yeah, that's me.  We also hung out in the parking lot one time when I was with Tom et al. 
Have to check out Robots next time I'm on the west side.  In the meantime, it's valley time.