New Routes

[The Big]

First New route for the Forum.

mudworm onsighted la petite mort.

La Patite Mort FA mudworm Xi, Erik Mr Mud, Robert Berhens.

5.9   BWWWAAAAAHHHAAAHHHAAAA

[mungeclimber]

uh, La Petite Mort

[mungeclimber]

Adam Metzger and Andrew Wang helped me equip the route over a period of years now and again placed the bolts as time and closures permit.







pic taken right after the redpoint, Mr Mud adding the 2nd anchor bolt with chains



don't be fooled, this is no sport route, bold crux finish



this pic also shows another new line



"Don't Hurt Yourself" 5.? R or X FA DES onsight solo 11/19/2005 ...that follows the line from the tennis shoes on left, up the slope to just left of the anchor being placed.  This line is not to be confused with Desecration Palpatation around left of from it, another line that is basically a solo.



another pic of la petit mort...



steepish

[TradToTheBone]

One of the things I've always enjoyed about Pinnacles climbing is the strong

ground-up ethic adhered to by people putting up routes.



For this route, Le Petite Morte, you say you "equipped" the route,

which I gather is slang for placing bolts on rappel.



I'm not in touch with the "scene" at Pinnacles, so I'm just curious if the Pinnacles climbing community has abandoned its long tradition of ground-up first ascents,  or if this climb is just an aberration.

[mungeclimber]

sorry, no, my bad. That term is usually used by the rappers that way.



I just meant putting the bolts in.



Here is the style info...



I think the first one was from stance

the middle ones were from hooks (done over a two+ year period- warm out there in the wrong time of year)

the last one was hanging off the next lower bolt



after trying to lead past it and having me get scared and say it needed to be scrubbed and Andrew taking some hearty falls on that last bolt I wanted to make sure it was do able at all. I went up around the back side via a circuitous route and placed a single bolt, intending to pull all the bolts if it wouldn't go.



TR ascent was completed by myself using a single bolt and a cam in a pocket way on the right and lots of sling just to see if it would go.



Still needing a redpoint I invited the strominator and mudworm to come out this last season and give it a go. (justification for weaksauce in 3...2...1...) I think I was coming off an elbow or should injury at the time in any event and was in no shape to pull it off.



mudworm fired it in perfect style, onsight!!!



And that's the story of the Mudworm.

[The Big]

It was a beautiful send.

[mungeclimber]

Machete Base Area - Twinkle Toes Area



1. Jesus Rode a Donkey 5.5 TR. Located left of "Young in Deed" (as labelled in Rubine guide) joins same at anchors for first pitch of Twinkle Toes anchor. Start the line left of a tree, but right of pedestal of rock on moss covered rock. Trend up and right to a baby roof and generally trend up and right joining "Young in Deed" essentially at the anchor. This thing was pretty filthy so I'm suspecting it hasn't been done, for sure not done in a LONG time. FRTR 9/30/06.



2. Ballerina Variation 5.7ish TR. Located on the arete immediately between "Young in Deed" and the crack for Twinkle Toes.  Step left off the ledge from the base of Twinkle Toes and stay right on the arete, just right of "Young in Deed" and immediately above Twinkle Toes crack. Continue straight up. Join the same's anchor point from high on the arete. Likely done before, but otherwise FRTRA 9/30/06.

[mungeclimber]

Newly reported TR line left of Limp at Last. 5.6* (no known name, but likely TR'd many times over the years.) good rock, fun small knobs. It is in between Behr-ens of Sanity and Limp at Last.













btw, TR ascent of Behr-ens of Sanity confirmed at 5.5 testpiece grade.

[F4?]

Munge what about my eliminate? Start on limp at last unitil the 1st bolt and then traverse/ work up and left.



I'll be taping the route next weekend. Blue tape?

[karl]

Munge what about my eliminate? Start on limp at last unitil the 1st bolt and then traverse/ work up and left.



I'll be taping the route next weekend. Blue tape?

Is that the right hand only or left hand only eliminate?

[F4?]

Is that the right hand only or left hand only eliminate?

It's a right eliminate, since you try and use the hold to the left.



Kinda like Broken Arrow. Don't use the arete!

[mungeclimber]

I think Mr Mud actually says that about the Arete doesn't he?

[mungeclimber]

TR line to right of Rebecca's Sailing and left of 2nd pitch of Tilting Terrace. 5.7ish. FA probably Zambetti BITD, if not I can remember running a lap on it at some point with the rope drag being horrendous (have to chk trip reports). Bring slings to drop the anchor point out, and clip into something so the slippery wet grass on the Terrace doesn't get ya.