Author Topic: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness  (Read 10891 times)

Brad Young

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Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« on: January 17, 2008, 08:24:21 AM »
Haven't been doing much crack climbing now since September. Certainly nothing wide. So Professor Miller and I focused on wide cracks at Reed's yesterday. Did fine up to 10a (Bong's Away - Center, which is really 5.9). Did easier wide stuff too. Failed ON TOPROPE on The Remnant - Left Side, which is harder by a lot than Waverly Wafer (but rated 10b). I can't imagine getting this ever, clean on lead. But The Remnant - Right Side was a new pitch for me, and quite good. First time I've ever used a #6 Camalot.

So, today I'm sore. Nothing drastic, but my whole body feels used. I guess I'm not 27 anymore.

squiddo

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Re: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2008, 08:30:59 AM »
Hey Brad,

ahh nothing like Valley classics to get the old blood flowing. How were the temps?
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Brad Young

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Re: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2008, 10:29:23 AM »
It started out as one of the very coldest days I've climbed in the Valley. Periodic fog (yes, at Reed's) and a breeze. By mid afternoon it was good.

squiddo

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Re: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2008, 01:00:57 PM »
Ahhh I'm still envious. I always say this but I truly need to get back there.
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2008, 02:09:17 PM »
Saturday Squiddo?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

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Re: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2008, 02:33:31 PM »
Hey Munge, you want to hit the Valley on Saturday just for a day? Man, very tempting.....I'm supposed to head to the Pinnacles with F4 but I need to be back in Mt View by 8. Pushing it..........Feb my life gets easier.
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2008, 10:49:32 PM »
the following weekend is available too, but it has to be Grade V and I have mon and tuesday off.  Feb plans are kinda up in the air. WA trip for work and some desert climbing.

But fat crack practice is high on the list. You got any extra wide gear?  both extra-wide and extra pieces of wide gear?




On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

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Re: Valley Wide Cracks/ Soreness
« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2008, 08:39:28 AM »
Hey Munge,

Yes, my next weekend is screwed/booked too. I say that with a smile though as I'm taking the wife to a hotel on the coast for her Birthday. Feb is almost all open.

I've got some wide though I'm looking to acquire some more. If memory serves the biggest is BD Camalots: 3- #3, 2- #4, 1-#5. F4 has that sweet shiny Green Wild Country.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber