Yo!
Headed up to the East side on Tuesday, Intent on replacing some bolts before I met Fabrizio to head off to the camp. I had a plan, my trusty crowbar (The Iron Maiden), and bunch of ASCA Bolts and Hangers. Dropped a line off the top above "The Roof", got psyched, and descended. I arrived at the intermediate belay with chains to the right of the big roof. Replaced the right bolt of the anchor, added new chain and a link. I had to move the bolt up about 8 inches due to rock quality but the chains are equalized. Really bad bolt! It had a square nut on it, so that is pretty old, maybe not Bridwell's but OLD.
Next I relocated my anchor at the rim to the left and dropped in over "The Gutter". These bolts had eluded me last spring but I was intent on finding those buggers!
After some fancy swings I found the 2nd bolt, a longware bottle top hanger, with star dryvin bolt. I had never removed a Star Dryvin before, if I had not had my crowbar the tuning forks would not have worked due to the sleeve. With the crowbar I was able to sheer the sleeve and get to the bolt, a few jolts and WHAMMY, now a new bolt.
Dropped down to the 1st Pro bolt about 30 feet down at a bulge/flare. As I was removing the bolt, an older couple, who was enjoying the perfect day stopped to take a few pics of me hammering away.
Here's the Tally-
The evening was spent playing extreme Bocce Ball by headlamp. We were all over the place, in the road, through the woods etc... Big fun! The morning was cold, like high 30's, we delayed leaving the trailhead for awhile due to Espresso withdrawl.
Headed up to the Yaks for the first time. Totally awesome!!!! Big routes, great views and guess what... we were the only ones there, HAHA.
Fabrizio wanted to "Ashes to Ashes Dust to Dust" 10b. Sounded good, it's a McCbrothers route, later finished off by some other Mudmasters. Since he is the rope-gun, I got the first pitch which was a steep slab up to a RFC and then a short squeeze, or a boulder problem to the left to the belay. Good pitch.
Now came the Business, 10b and thin as Paris Hilton. The Breeze fired this thing! Off the couch, he did a great job on the crux which was followed by a little loose action to the belay.
Too MUch FuN was Had! Pretty steep at the start!
Some bail anchors at the end of the second? Maybe a storm? We thought you could rap the route but NO dice.
Pitch 3 looks very ominous from the belay, very steep, and the rock doesn't look that good, but boy was it good rock! Totally badass pitch, with some great exposure
We definately got the FCIA.. or the 1st continuous Italian ascent! WHOOP! HAHAHA!!!!!!!
We had to rock out of there after a bit of exploring, good stuff up there!
Hope this brings the Pinns Fever to you guys,
Mucci
