Author Topic: Maruchan Man  (Read 11930 times)

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6833
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #20 on: September 11, 2008, 08:31:49 PM »
Yeah, well, OK, I meant other than the obvious what could be better.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6833
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #21 on: September 12, 2008, 04:50:51 PM »
Off balance stance using a 1/2" deep Knifeblade to hold me in place (I had another tenuous pin to the left). Also using my left leg to cross pressure on some blocks. After the bolt was in I teetered three blocks off. Quite a show.




Bad photo (too much glare) but it shows how steep it is.




No big deal of a route, but, I thought I'd make an occasional post while we're waiting for Pinns season. 

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6176
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #22 on: September 12, 2008, 08:12:53 PM »
Anything climbing related is always welcomed.
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6833
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #23 on: October 22, 2008, 06:15:30 PM »
We finally got out yesterday and redpointed Maruchan Man. A little cool with a breeze on a north face at 8400 feet in October. Very smooth, we both led it. Good pro, great exposure, fun moves. 5.10b **.

We were cool enough there that we decided to move to the South Face of Burst. There we went mostly shirtless and wished we had shorts. Jim and I both redpointed Fracture Clinic, a three star 5.11a crack. It overhangs severely for the first half, but is great hands. The crux is an odd size halfway up, and then it's vertical #4 Camalot size. Both of us had been on it before 5 years or so ago. We both redpointed it just baaarely. I thought I was off for sure way above the only #4 I had. If 100% is falling off I was at 99.9%. Totally pumped. Ten minutes after I finished this lead I noticed my right shoulder was hurting. I guess I was really scumming it into the crack:






Fun day. One of the last of the High County season, I suspect.

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6713
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #24 on: October 22, 2008, 10:36:54 PM »
dude, go take that trash talk to those pudknockers on SPH forum.


sheesh



 ;D
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6176
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #25 on: October 23, 2008, 08:20:18 AM »
Are the scars due to bad technique??
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6833
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #26 on: October 23, 2008, 10:09:08 AM »
I suppose that is one way of looking at it. On the other hand, any time I can redpoint a 5.11 crack I'm OK with my technique. I know I cranked pretty hard on a ring jam at one overhanging part.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6833
Re: Maruchan Man
« Reply #27 on: March 23, 2010, 06:31:27 AM »
"Maruchan Man," and I climbed Pinns this last weekend. Breakfast in the East Side campground, the origin of a name: