Author Topic: Link Ups  (Read 3590 times)

mungeclimber

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Link Ups
« on: September 17, 2011, 03:59:48 PM »
Was talking to John at centralcoastclimbing.com recently and he reminded me of his great site. Since the last time I checked it out he's got a bunch of new stuff, including the SLO area in a mini guide format. Really nice stuff.  Anyways, in his Pinnacles mini guide, he's got this link up spelled out...

It reminded me of similar trips I've done on Machete and thought it worth reposting this...

Quote
Bullseye to Old Original Linkup
5.5R A0 
Pitches: 13 (plus 4 Optional Pitches)
Gear: 4 or 5 cams from ½” to 2 ½”, 8 shoulder length slings (with 2 carabiners each), cordellete,
and 2 “leaver” slings with rap rings.
Time to Climb Route: 5 to 7 hours
Approach: 25 minutes
Descent: 30 minutes
Description: This linkup includes 13 pitches of “climbing” and combines “Bullseye”,
“Derringer”, and “Old Original” to climb the entire length of Machete Ridge (the largest feature in
the Monument). The route gets an “R” or “Runout” rating due to the meager spacing between
some of the bolts. Most (but not all) of the 5.5 moves are protected with a nearby bolt. This route
gets 3 out of 3 stars not for the quality of the climbing but the quality of the adventure. Much of
the route is 4th Class with a few 5.5 moves to keep things interesting. There is a rappel mid-route
and also a rappel on the descent. Most of the belay stations are bolted (bring daisy chains or a
cordellete to quickly set up anchors). You can add 4 additional “Option Pitches” for a total of 17
pitches. This linkup is a fun adventure for anyone wishing to hone their multi-pitch skills.


http://centralcoastclimbing.com/images/Pinnacles-Mini-Guide.pdf
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2011, 06:11:59 PM »
Tell John he needs to post up here to be legit. Or at least climb with us. Or show up to one of our deals. SLO doesn't get represented at our deals.

Squiddo and I ran into him years ago in RR of all places. Turns out he went to the same high school as Squiddo and I. Small world.

Here is a light Muchshitty link up to chew on:
Twinkle Toes to Gary and Phyllis> Bill's bad Bolts > Rap and brush Rock O Clock> Climb Rock around the clock>Rap Rock O'Clock> admire Los Banditos(yes it's a fine route)>Rap the West face route (the short bolt ladder)>walk back to the car> drink beer.
All with 1 rope. A 2nd is okay if you don't want to get covered in dirt rapping Rock.

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Atomizer

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2011, 06:32:20 AM »
How about Cuidado > Old Original, has that ever been done?

F4?

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2011, 06:55:09 AM »
that would be nice. Is that route still open?
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Atomizer

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2011, 07:17:50 AM »
I thought it was only open on weekdays.

F4?

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #5 on: September 19, 2011, 07:27:41 PM »
came accross this at m-project..


http://mountainproject.com/v/cuidado/105735413
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MudMittens

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2011, 06:48:38 PM »
I think 12 twelves in bear gulch is possible...
Trial
40 days
Tarantula
Cataract Corner
Hard as a Rock
Druid
Vigilante
Tailspin
Miscegenation
Future Shock
Cantaloupe Death Direct
Hot Lava Lucy (although me thinks this one is 13a. at that rate, you could do penguin handshake cause that one's really 5.12).

F4?

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2011, 06:27:07 AM »
Sounds tiring
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mynameismud

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2011, 09:03:54 AM »
Sounds Awesome.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2011, 09:37:25 AM »
What about Zippidity Do- Dah or Gorrillas in the Moss?

squiddo

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2011, 01:31:20 PM »
I think 12 twelves in bear gulch is possible...
Trial
40 days
Tarantula
Cataract Corner
Hard as a Rock
Druid
Vigilante
Tailspin
Miscegenation
Future Shock
Cantaloupe Death Direct

Hot Lava Lucy (although me thinks this one is 13a. at that rate, you could do penguin handshake cause that one's really 5.12).

Second that, my arms hurt
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mynameismud

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2011, 04:05:41 PM »
Throwing Gorillas in there would make you true Gorillas in the Moss especially with all that other stuff.  That thing is really hard.  (Not that I have gotten it) but from my flailing attempts that is how it felt.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Link Ups
« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2011, 05:44:07 PM »
lucky 13 to that traverse pitch, then redline, rap, hit dropzone, rap, than the line up and right, then gary and phyllis.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge