Author Topic: Games Climbers Play  (Read 80425 times)

Uncle Stinky

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Games Climbers Play
« on: February 09, 2014, 10:20:32 AM »
Some of the older ones here may remember reading this by Yvon Chouinard.  Does any of this hold true today?   Comments? Something for a rainy day. 




F4?

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2014, 10:28:26 AM »
Bolt it, Bolt I say!
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2014, 10:38:57 AM »
I saw your comment Jeff, and the photo of the page. Then I decided to test my age and memory:

I've got that same book (great book), but I thought Lito Tejada-Flores wrote that article not Chouinard. Yes, it was he, and not Yvonne.

Some of my other favorites from the book include Nerve Wrack Point by Tom Higgins, and North Twin: North Face by Chris Jones. And, although the title is one of the best and the article is only OK: It's a 5.10 Mantle Into Heaven Brother.

Uncle Stinky

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2014, 10:51:11 AM »
Brad you most likely correct on the author, my book has fallen apart and I just saved that page. Clean up day today.   I figured I would get a new copy sooner or later, just because there is so much good writing.  BTW I met Lito once years ago while skiing back to my cabin, as was he, from Bear Valley.  Must have been early 70's when he worked up there one winter.

squiddo

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2014, 11:39:53 AM »
Agree great book and happy to own. Real stories of men
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mungeclimber

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2014, 12:07:20 PM »
I thought the book was a Greg Child book. ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

cobbledik

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2014, 05:40:38 PM »
Plenty of pinability at pinnacles still.

Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2014, 11:49:20 PM »
I saw your comment Jeff, and the photo of the page. Then I decided to test my age and memory:

I've got that same book (great book), but I thought Lito Tejada-Flores wrote that article not Chouinard. Yes, it was he, and not Yvonne.

Some of my other favorites from the book include Nerve Wrack Point by Tom Higgins, and North Twin: North Face by Chris Jones. And, although the title is one of the best and the article is only OK: It's a 5.10 Mantle Into Heaven Brother.

BITD, my partner Jeff and I did a very early repeat of Nerve Wrack Point.  We had a topo from Ament, but he and Higgins put in so few bolts it was kind of hard to figure out where to go.  I think there were like two pieces of fixed pro per pitch.

Yes, Lito Tejada-FLores and not Yvon Chouinard wrote Game Climbers Play.

waldo

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #8 on: February 10, 2014, 08:48:34 PM »
I like "Sometimes you Know - Sometimes you Don't"  Pinnacles adds an extra dimension to the question.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #9 on: February 10, 2014, 09:06:21 PM »
I like "Sometimes you Know - Sometimes you Don't"  Pinnacles adds an extra dimension to the question.

I like - sometimes you feel like  nut - sometimes you don't :)
One wheel shy of "normal"

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2014, 04:22:07 PM »
Does this mean we are only playing games when we climb at Pinnacles?

clink

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2014, 06:41:22 PM »
Just you. For the rest of us it is a serious  sport.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

waldo

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Re: Games Climbers Play
« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2014, 10:10:42 PM »
Hemingway held climbing to be one of only three true and serious sports.  The other two are race car driving and bullfighting.  Come to think of it, there is quite a lot of bull in climbing.