thanks for the photo option advice. I'll look into it soon, but working 12 hr shifts next two days, so may be a few before I've got anything going photo wise...I'll actually be on the West side 12/21, Wednesday, for something multi-pitch. What did you guys climb there today, My Name is Mud? I was on The Cleft, The Roof, and that new short face below it, Jorgie's, and Between a Rock and a Hard Place. Fun day, sunny, but so many people there, many from Planite Granite. Wednesday should be way more peaceful.
By the way, first I led the Roof skipping the manky bolt, the manky pins, and the two shinny bolts, but still managed to protect it well with cams for my less experienced second. Then I did that new semi-controversial face...
My take- While doing the roof, those anchor bolts are in your face as you traverse, and I placed a beautiful cam 12 inches directly above, and between, the two anchor ring bolts... Too close! Then I did the face climb, and the moves were pretty fun, yet the route so short. I feel the anchors should dissapear, as they interfere, and the two bolt face should be a variation, that completes with 1, 2, or 3 cam placements to the rap ring anchors at the end of the Roof traverse. My 2 cents...
Historical Perspective from Mt. St. Helena, early 90's. A 5.11b, the Beast, starts with a cam placement #1 perfect hands, leading to bolted steep face after 20 feet of crack. My first 11b lead. My friend Jerry Dodrill notices some nice face to the left of the angling crack start, and puts up a 2 bolt variation, independent and fun, joining the other route midway. No intermediate anchor next to crack, 2 ways to start, crack or face, and either way you do the Beast it's still good.
Maybe the same could exist here? It's still nice to place a piece before the 1st bolt on the face "variation" anyway. Why not bring a couple more cams and finish it out to the existent anchors? Gonna do that hybrid the next time I'm out that way.
Cheers,
Kurt
