sole climbers at WPinns today (TR)

[KlimerKurt]

So today my friend Jim T. came down for a day of W.side. We got there at 9:30 to find dirt where a little ranger check in building once was, and no trailers next to that either. temp was 37 in the shade, with ice frost. Our plan to head straight to the Son of Dawn looked frigid...and stupid. So we headed for Romper Room, a fun 10b outing, where you could just be in the sun, while your fingers still went numb. Anybody know this route? It's got strange semi-fixed (left) biners super close together on rappell-able bolt hangers (no rings or links). I've done it twice now and lowered off those biners, getting ridiculously bad rope twist from it.

We then needed sun, and Machete still lacked it, so we headed to Peregrine, P1 on Balconies cliff. Enjoyable zig-zag climbing between large protruding blocks with all being rusty star bolts. (except one nice bolt with steel ring on the anchor.) Thanks, whoever did that.

Finally Son of Dawn got sun above P1, so we headed over...
and immediately got sidetracked into both leading Robots of Dawn. Really enjoyed that one, especially the opening steep bit with steep great rock, pockets, and cool moves. Above, deterioration of rock quality was noted, as expected, and Jim said his CHF rating (Crumbly Hold Factor) would definitely apply! There were a couple flex-a-holds. tap, tap, choose wisely, success!

And now, getting a bit later, Son of Dawn. Decided to just do 1st three P, due to shortest day of year, and left rack at base. Jim onsighted P1, and I followed clean. Really good size R. side-pull up higher has a big flex to it. P. 2 bolt ladder was fun, and I'm glad someone replaced many of the bolts, so they didn't all resemble the tiny little rust buckets that were left in a few places for spice or history lesson I guess P.3 was really nice quality I thought, like a long 'Destiny', and also featured some historical homemade hanger rust bolts, noteable most in the upper runouts on easy terrain. Still fun climbing and luckily no fall testing on those. Prairie Falcon flew by to say hi as pigeons coo-ed nearby and the sun got ready to drop over the ridge, we rapped, as Jim wanted no epics and had a dead battery headlamp, and cold was coming. Next time chimney...Next time.  Newer Rap hangers, and rapping from 3 to 2, 2 to ground got us out at a good time.

What a peaceful day in the park, compared to last Sunday when I worked my way in with the massive crowds at the Disco wall. 
Anyone know if the Son of Dawn (and Rock around the clock) will be in the closures in January?

Cheers,
Kurt

[mungeclimber]

Kurt,

Those hangers on Romper Room are "Bonier" hangers. Larry sells em at Mountaintools.com (he's out of stock right now). Low profile anchor option. Also light weight for backcountry.

They aren't for lowering thru, though it is possible, since the metal is thinner they will prematurely wear out if everyone lowers thru them.  They are basically to rap from. If set correctly, the rope pull is pretty smooth. Not like Fixe rings, but they are a trade off design for low profile, reduced visibility types of anchors, or if light weight is needed.

Good day it looks like. Nice!  Yeah, that zoo pressure is often relieved by a West Side visit.

cheers,
M

[Gavin]

Kurt, sounds like a nice day on the West Side. You probably don't remember, but we met briefly at Sanctuary Rock Gym about 10 years ago.

At any rate, you asked about closures. I live and work at Pinnacles as the raptor biologist, so I can answer your question! In the past few years a prairie falcon pair has occupied and nested at Machete, so I've had a partial advisory in place to close only routes that are close to the cliff nest they've used. The first pitches of Rock Around the Clock and Son of Dawn will remain open, but above that the 2nd pitches and higher will initially be closed in January. The portion of the upper southwest face of Machete that will be closed includes all routes above the first pitch from Daedalus to Icarus. If the falcon pair decides to shift elsewhere - to Balconies for example - the whole of Machete will be open again later in the spring. All other climbs on Machete will remain open in January. Hope that helps!

[Atomizer]

I wish I could have gone, Jim tried to wrestle me down to use up some Megapixels. The upper part of Son of Dawn looks awesome. Maybe I will squeeze this one in before the closures.

[F4?]

Upper SODW is way cool.

Ask Jake Miller in PEdge if you know him.

He used to post up here. I think he's busy playing with dolls or something.