Warning; Smiling Simian 5.8 route - the big hold is way loose

[mungeclimber]

Heads up to any would be leaders on the 5.8 route on Smiling Simian.

That big right face hold/cobble is flexing over an 1/8th of an inch with nominal pressure.

It's possible to avoid it with some moves, but as a foothold stepping on it keeps it 5.8.

I used it as a foothold by stepping close to the attachment point and kept most of my weight off of it.

I don't think it will last thru any big pulls using it as a hand hold.





sidenote: GameShow has a big fat red sling at the anchors. Anyone want to work on that this month and replace that sling with some camo chain?

[F4?]

Did you put an X on the hold?

[mynameismud]

I should.  Not sure if I will though.  Those anchors need a chain since there is almost always a big hunk of tat there.  Do to the water run off the webbing seldom lasts more than a year.

[mungeclimber]

that brown tat was there for multiple years, it just looked like shit.


let's do this thing Mud!

[F4?]

Just be careful with Mr Mud. He might slip in a CF memory card of someone's vacation in your jacket....then you are in trouble.

[mynameismud]

Well if I get back to that thing I will have to commit to getting it clean.  I only have the left hand route to do.  Think that I have gotten it but not sure.  So if I am going back it will have to take a commitment of at least a Month of Sundays since that is probably how long it will take for me to get that dam thing.  If we get rain any time soon I am screwed.  Actually maybe this is what it will take to bring in the rainy season.

[F4?]

Dude, my joke about finding a memory card went right over your head...