Author Topic: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side  (Read 34127 times)

cobbledik

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #60 on: January 26, 2012, 07:42:07 AM »
I doubt I used it as the only piece, I probably used it as a directional. I can't remember.

I'm still confused, the anchor bolts have a chain and a ring and are a couple fourth class steps to the right of the redirect bolt. I can't imagine the scenario where the biner could be used for a retreat there.

That's most of the reason that I left it. It seemed like a smart move to leave a camo'd biner on the bolt that would be invisible from the ground but obvious when you come over the bulge. Then, people freaked out from the 5.9++rxxx moves will be less likely to miss it (since belaying from the bolts without the redirect would make a fall for the second at those free moves very swingy and very cheesegratery... I don't think that's a real word.)

mynameismud

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #61 on: January 26, 2012, 09:42:12 AM »
"++RXXX "

I am officially excited about this route.
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #62 on: January 26, 2012, 11:05:24 AM »
Hmm, but there are 2x other routes with heady 5.9 cruxes..lava falls and Son of Dawn wall.

I'm not worthy.

cobbledik

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #63 on: January 26, 2012, 01:10:03 PM »
Hmm, but there are 2x other routes with heady 5.9 cruxes..lava falls and Son of Dawn wall.

Yeah, but this one is 3x, the extra X for this route is for the extra sexy

F4?

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #64 on: January 26, 2012, 02:12:38 PM »
And then there's the 1st pitch of Resurrection wall.
I'm not worthy.

kylequeener

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #65 on: January 27, 2012, 10:19:42 PM »
I'm still confused, the anchor bolts have a chain and a ring and are a couple fourth class steps to the right of the redirect bolt. I can't imagine the scenario where the biner could be used for a retreat there.



Remembering the few steps right to the belay now and looking at the topo it was probably used as a directional piece so I could clean the pitch easier.