This last Sunday Laura, Alex (9) and I climbed with Joe D., Dani and Zach (7). This was designed to be a kids climbing day with fun as the top priority. We did the High Peaks loop and ended up at the Sponge. We got to the base Alex decided he wanted to lead the Regular Route on the Sponge (5.0). Alex has never shown an interest in leading before so this took both Laura and I by surprise. He said he wanted to do a “fresh lead” on it and didn’t want me to go up first.
I insisted that I do the route first since I hadn’t done it in probably six or seven years and wanted to make sure that it was safe for him to lead. I’m sure almost everyone on this forum has done this route, probably solo, but if you’re nine years old it’s a big lead. It’s about 30 feet of fourth class up to a headwall and the first bolt. From there you climb up a vertical face for about another 20 feet where you clip the second bolt. Continuing up another 40 or 50 feet to the top with the climbing getting easier the higher you go. The problem is if you fall after the second bolt you’re looking at a pretty nasty sideways, bone scrapping fall.
After I finished leading the route I untied and dropped the rope. Alex and Laura soloed up to the base of the headwall where Alex tied in and started his lead. While moving slowly and carefully he made his way up to the first bolt and clipped it. Laura checked to make sure he didn’t back-clip and he made his way up to the second bolt. So far so good. He seemed confident and excited to be leading.
After climbing about 10 feet above the second bolt he finally admitted he was a little bit scared. I told him he could sling the big knob 5 feet higher, so he climbed up, pulled a quick draw off of his harness, pulled the sling apart and slung the knob! He was very proud of placing his own protection.
From there he scampered up the remaining easy 4th class to the top where we high-fived.
I have to admit it was pretty wild to see a helmet coming up over the bulge and it being Alex, with Laura down at the belay. To say I was proud and terrified is an understatement. There are so many ways this could have gone wrong, but everything went right and a climber was born.
If we were good parents we would have taken a camera along to document the ascent, but alas, we suck.
Here are a few photos from the day.
Joe, Alex and Zach on the High Peaks hike
Alex and Zach taking care of some rope management
Alex and Laura on top
Alex telling Zach how to get through the crux moves
Alex marking off his first lead in his very own Pinnacles guidebook (yes, I made him pay full price for the book)
