Aloha, yall

[Ranger MAK]

Hello Pinnacles Peeps,

I see many of you are well and wordy, hoping those I dont see posting are enjoying climbing someplace

Planning to climb W. side 12/20 and/or 21, have a strong partner but would appreciate a third who knows their Crud.  Regardless, three questions for anyone with time, extra points for snarky replies:

Given the weather, is there a safe/challenging balance for topping out on Machete? I figure Derringer&Original should be OK, but would prefer something like the Bandits or West Face-Bills Bolts

Similarly, is there any point in trying Balconies since the rainy season has begun?  I seem to recall the rock staying moist throughout the winter, but would hate to miss climbing Shake n Bake if conditions are good.

Lastly, is anyone available to talk/text/DM my travel/route plan?  I am definitely the older, wiser, and more knowledgeable one between me and my partner, but Ive climbed around ten W. Side routes, the only multi- being Costanoan.  Can handle the technical part of anchors and belaying, just not keen on climbing a route neither of us have actually seen without seeking further beta.

Mahalo nui,  e pō mālie

[mynameismud]

Post routes we can post beta.  I cannot vouch for conditions since I am not in the area.

[NOAL]

Hey Ranger Mak!  It's good to hear from you! Miss seeing you around the park.  Enjoy your visit and have fun.

[F4?]

Few days of dry weather will help.

Enjoy!

There is no such thing as a bad day climbing at the pinnacles!

[Ranger MAK]

Myname: I did post routes:
Machete: Derringer-Old Original, West Face or Bandits in Bondage-Bandits Bench to Bad Bills Bolts
Balconies: Shake n Bake

NOAL: WHAT UP?!! How have YOU been? You

[Gavin]

Good to hear you'll be in the neighborhood MAK! Long time no see!

I have family arriving for the holidays on Sunday and hope to climb with them on Monday on the west side... Perhaps we'll see you at some point.

Right now the forecast is calling for sun and no rain on Friday through Sunday, a slight chance of rain Monday, and then rain likely on Tuesday. So if you're deciding between those latter two days it seems like Monday is the better bet.

I think the streaks on Balconies are likely to be damp, though a few days without rain should help to dry them off a bit. I'm not sure I would go for Shake & Bake until we have a longer period of dry weather but that's just me. As an alternative, you might want to look at the first pitch of the route Full Circle (5.10d) at Balconies (which I established with Brad and others). It is new since the book and described on the Newly Established Routes thread. The first pitch is 5.10b, and all pitches are very well protected with bolts and can be rappelled with a single 60m rope. It doesn't follow the streak quite as closely as some other routes so it might dry out a bit more quickly.

You also might want to consider a new 5.7 multi-pitch route called The Flying None that Brad and others established at Citadel - look at the description on the Newly Established Routes thread. It starts not far to the right of Costanoan and is a pretty fun route. There is also a new 5.10a on Whitetail Rock called Get Smart that is a very fun long, single pitch - I'm sure you'd like it. That is also described in the Newly Established Routes thread, and Brad and I established this one too.

Good luck and hopefully the weather cooperates for you!

[JC w KC redux]

Myname: I did post routes:
Machete: Derringer-Old Original, West Face or Bandits in Bondage-Bandits Bench to Bad Bills Bolts
Balconies: Shake n Bake

NOAL: WHAT UP?!! How have YOU been? You

Bullseye/Derringer should be fine since that is the sunny side of Machete.
The aid ladders should be fine but the free climbing above could be tricky - since all those routes are in water chutes. That side of Machete is really cold getting started in the morning this time of year. Of course some people on this forum seem to be immune to cold and wet. Not me. The sun should hit the West Face around noon or maybe 1:00. Balconies routes get a lot of sun generally but the amount of soil at the top of the cliff can hold water for days, weeks or months and keep things drippy. Again - that doesn't seem to bother some. Old Original should be fine and the descent has rappel stations now. 

[climberdude]

I have done the Bullseye/Derringer - Old Original Machete Ridge traverse in all months of the year.  You should be good with this unless it rains hard the day before.  As JC properly noted, the pitches of Derringer will be in the sun in the morning and will dry out quickly.  The only tricky part could be the 4th class final traverse after the rappels in the rappel gully, but if you bring four double-length slings plus carabiners plus a few smaller cams, you will be well protected.  I would skip anything on the West Face as these would likely stay wetter.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
The dude abides.
There are some small but sturdy trees to anchor a belayer at either end of the traverse aka the 4th class ledge descent.
I sling the scrub oaks or drape the rope over them to protect moving across that ledge. I have never used any cams on Old Original.

[Ranger MAK]

Aloha kākou!

Mahalo nui loa for all the kokua!

Gavin, I have been catching up on the new routes thread and both of those sounded too fun to pass up!  Glad to know y