javelina -> carnitas

[kurt]

Excellent, if not a bit chilly day yesterday around the High Peaks.  I haven't climbed up there much.  Our goal was 10 onsights, but cold hands at dusk had us stop at 8.

• The Lump -- nice movement, good start to the day
• High Peaks Drifter -- we actually thought this was "The Lump" and vice versa.  Nice exposure.
• Cinder -- saw it and had to do it, found it in the book later.  Steep and technical for 5.7, actually pretty fun for being so short. 
• Dragonfly Dome Regular Route -- compared to all the other routes of the day, this didn't stand out.
• School Daze (TR only) -- quite nice, actually.
• The Egg Shell -- some routes are a "geology tour".  The branches encroaching on the route over the second and third bolts makes this a "botany tour".  Memorable, and one of the better routes of the day.
• Little Javelina -- best route of the day, but the walk off had us scratching our heads.   We used camo'ed pair of bolts nearby to lean out and scope it out before committing to the staircase / chimney situation.
• Burtons Below -- certainly more protected than listed on the topo, saw the update on the forum after the fact.  Strange that there are two bolts mid-route vertically separated by maybe 24".
   Reasoning behind this?

Rounded it off with carnitas from 3 Queens in Hollister, seemed a fitting conversion from javelina to tasty treat. 

Brad + co (?) on the Egg from the base of Little Javelina attached. 

[Brad Young]

There should not be two bolts that close. Unless someone added something? More like five to six feet near the crux.

[JC w KC redux]

Excellent, if not a bit chilly day yesterday around the High Peaks.  I haven't climbed up there much.  Our goal was 10 onsights, but cold hands at dusk had us stop at 8.

• Little Javelina -- best route of the day, but the walk off had us scratching our heads.   We used camo'ed pair of bolts nearby to lean out and scope it out before committing to the staircase / chimney situation.
• Burtons Below -- certainly more protected than listed on the topo, saw the update on the forum after the fact.  Strange that there are two bolts mid-route vertically separated by maybe 24".
   Reasoning behind this?

Figured it would be nice out there in the sun but Little Javelina must have been chilly since it is always shaded. Sounds like you went the wrong way on the scramble down for Little Javelina. Go to Kermit and then work your way up there to figure it out. It should not involve more than a little fun scrambling but it is hidden until you get in there. The camo anchor is for Gavin's routes in the chimney - I recommend going back there and doing Dances with Warthogs and Swine Flu. The other chimney routes are cool too.

The close bolts on Burton's upper are a mystery. Bolt 6 was an old split shaft with a Leeper - maybe a leftover from the first pitch of the Original Route. I think it predated the Burton's FA. I felt justified in replacing it because the bolt below it is a carbon steel short sleeve and it's a long way from there to the upper bulge. I replaced the old SMC Death hangers on bolts 4 and 5 with an SMC stainless and a plated Fixe hanger. They were really hard to see - not to mention recalled garbage. Someone left screwlinks on bolts 5 and 6 so you could rap from there without doing the upper bulge. You could use those 2 close bolts for a mid belay and do Burton's in 2 pitches to allow a closer belay on that upper crux. It's quite the unpleasant fall when you blow that move with your belayer all the way down on the ground.

If you want to see how not to place bolts - go climb Mungy Bulgy. Everything on Flatiron ie either modern or has been replaced except Silent Running. I will get to it eventually (maybe). I replaced the first bolt and the belay bolt a while ago. [/list]

[kurt]

Figured it would be nice out there in the sun but Little Javelina must have been chilly since it is always shaded. Sounds like you went the wrong way on the scramble down for Little Javelina. Go to Kermit and then work your way up there to figure it out. It should not involve more than a little fun scrambling but it is hidden until you get in there. The camo anchor is for Gavin's routes in the chimney - I recommend going back there and doing Dances with Warthogs and Swine Flu. The other chimney routes are cool too.

To be honest, the shady north / west faces were more pleasant than the windy south / east faces.  Too overcast for the difference between sun and shade to really make itself known.  I'll certainly be headed back to Spikes for those other routes.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
Lots more cool routes in the High Peaks

Try to get to Where-s Waldo before the closures and Goat Rock after.

Pocket Protector and Mr. Bolt Jangles also come to mind for other stand out new routes.

Old Fingers 5.5 summit routes are super cool (and historic) as are Condor Crags Regular and Traverse routes.

[F4?]

Ha, yes the tree next to eggshell has grown into the route.
It would be a shame if the branch were to have an accident, with all the wind and such.
Classic Higgins route....bolt after the hard moves.
I remember when I 1st climbed that route and the branch was not obstructing the route.
While there I hope you enjoyed Freedom Dome.

JC, you forgot Piglet Pinnacle.

[JC w KC redux]

Ha, yes the tree next to eggshell has grown into the route.
It would be a shame if the branch were to have an accident, with all the wind and such.
Classic Higgins route....bolt after the hard moves.
I remember when I 1st climbed that route and the branch was not obstructing the route.
While there I hope you enjoyed Freedom Dome.
JC, you forgot Piglet Pinnacle.

I didn't care for Eggshell.
Freedom Dome was cool though - until you get to the crux - where the bolt was clearly aided long ago and now does a piss poor job of protecting the crux (classic Pinnacles problem).

I didn't forget the pork routes - just too many great routes up there to mention them all in one post. Burgundy Dome is a ballsy route and Tuff Dome is one of -if not my favorite - old route.

[F4?]

Burgundy dome is the route!!

Imagine Rupert leading up it, in loafers.

It