Author Topic: The Minarets  (Read 5875 times)

Brad Young

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The Minarets
« on: August 12, 2007, 04:35:16 PM »
Have any of you climbed in the Minarets? I never see other climbers there, only folks hiking up Mount Ritter. Damn shame given the area's incredible climbing history and the size and shape of 19 separate formations.

I did Michael and Adams from camp yesterday (13 hours). Took 3 hours from a high camp just to get to the start of the climbing. The Eichorn Chute on Michael is "only" easy 5th class.  It finishes on the original route up the formation, from The Portal, "4th Class." I've done some pretty hard climbing, a lot in the Sierra and a lot of unroped 4th class, and easy 5th class. All I can say is that for Michael to have soloed that thing up and down in 1923 was unreal. It's about 5.4, which is OK in my book for Sierra 4th class. But I had a rope and gear and I was intimidated. The descent was flat scary.

That's 10 out of 19 of them for me.

We looked over at the wall where Walter Starr Jr. is interred. Very somber moment.

Brad Young

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Re: The Minarets
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2007, 06:50:27 PM »
Since this forum seems to be dying for lack of interest I will post further observations in this thread. Apparently none of you are climbing this summer or none of you climb in the Minarets? Well, not me. I now have withered forearms, but dam, I could run at 14,000 feet.

As much or more than any part of the Sierra the words "fourth class" in the Minarets are an anachronism. If it says fourth class it only means it was done first without a rope. This excludes peakbaggers absolutley. So this leaves climbers. And most of the climbs are rated fourth class or easy fifth, which many climbers figure is peakbagging. And so after a brilliant early climbing history the area sees little activity now. Too bad. If climbers would just get past the fourth class ratings they'd learn so much. Like how the Minarets are a total rubble pile. While most Sierra climbs have loose rock, at least one can envision some mother stone below the looseness. Not so The Minarets. They have no visible means of support.

And sharp edges everywhere. Saw my partner's weighted rappel sling cut on an edge 1/5 of the way through with body weight (stopped him NOW and re-adjusted the sling, plus tied a new one to back it up. We were only 500 feet up though.) Never seen that happen before, a sling cutting right before my eyes. And the loose rock. Did I mention the loose rock?

Anyway, big fun in the mountains. Can't wait to finish them off. Who's in?

mynameismud

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Re: The Minarets
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2007, 04:52:38 PM »
Normally I would jump in but since I am not climbing I will not.  Plus I have this huge commitment of 3 5.11's that I have to do plus one 13a move followed by lot's of grunting with a capper of one impossible climb.  I think my life is booked.  My love of the Minarets will go unrequited much like most of my climbing aspirations.  Is it Pinnacles season yet?
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: The Minarets
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2007, 06:31:52 PM »
"I think my life is booked."

I know how you feel. I've only gotten back to the meadows once this year. Sure wish I could keep going to the minerets.

I'm not worthy.

salad

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Re: The Minarets
« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2007, 10:35:51 AM »
brad when are you going back?
eow!

Brad Young

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Re: The Minarets
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2007, 11:34:10 AM »
No this season, too much other stuff planned. Should we go in together and bag a few next summer? P.S. How'd The Palisades go?

salad

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Re: The Minarets
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2007, 12:01:31 PM »
yeah keep me posted id be interested.

palisades didnt go.  two partners backed out.  i could have gone as a third to another party, but for several reasons decided not to, glad i didnt cause they only got 4 out of 5 and bailed due to altitude sickness.  20 hrs car to car.

i couldnt get a camp site in the area so i tookt he family up to rock creek.  we just hung out fri and sat.  sunday i went up bear creek spire via Ulrichs (decent route).

nothing sexy at all...
eow!