Author Topic: One More  (Read 4470 times)

mynameismud

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One More
« on: December 31, 2008, 09:29:29 PM »
Mudworm and I went down to the Pins today and I lead Chimney Sweep and Flue Fire.  Got both of those without a hang and without weighting the rope.  I had to down climb and rest but no taints.

I agree with Jim and John, Flue Fire is 10 plus.  It is short and there are lots of big holds.

Stopped on the way home and got a Chicken Mole Burrito, Chicken Mole Taco's, Champagne and a bottle of Bailey's.  That with my wonderful Wife.   

It is a good life.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mudworm

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Re: One More
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2008, 10:18:25 PM »
I only brought one shoe with me. Guess I can't poke fun at Mud any more.

It was a perfect day at Pinnacles. We had the entire valley to ourselves. Mud taught me the names of those formations around us, Crud 'n Mud, Hand, Frog, etc. He said there would be a quiz some day.

Seeing my man so happy, I couldn't have asked for a better way to conclude a fun year.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

F4?

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Re: One More
« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2009, 10:01:57 AM »
Nice. Does this mean we can climb established routes in Bear Gulch this spring?

What is the bottom of Digger rated? I thought Clnt said 11c.....
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mynameismud

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Re: One More
« Reply #3 on: January 01, 2009, 11:04:02 AM »
It is thin, steep, and loose.
Here's to sweat in your eye

joe

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Re: One More
« Reply #4 on: January 01, 2009, 02:15:42 PM »
you're probably right about flue fire.  brad and I were pretty worked by the time we got there (excuses, excuses).
good job and happy new year.

mudworm

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Re: One More
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2009, 08:32:30 PM »
A few pics:




Chimney Sweep (bottom buldge)


Chimney Sweep (top buldge)


Flue Fire


Flue Fire crux


The best place to be on the New Year's Eve
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mudworm

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My Pinnacles Redemption
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2009, 08:47:43 PM »
Following is the trip report I wrote for our Pinnacles trip.
==============
Actually it all started on my Skeggs ride. While waiting around for everyone to get ready, Charlie threw an unexpected question at me, “What did you get Erik for Christmas?” Huh? It was only 8:30 on a late December morning and I started sweating. To describe how I felt at the moment, I would use the English idiom “caught with pants down” or a Chinese saying “哪壶不开提哪壶.” (The two expressions are completely unrelated.)  The memory of the Christmas Eve came back to me. We were sitting in our living room and decided to open the wrapped gifts Erik’s folks had sent to us. After that, Erik brought out a gift bag full of goodies for me, among which was a pair of pink bicycling socks with “Bad Kitty” printed on the ankle. I paniced because I did not prepare any Christmas gift for him — I don’t do Christmas! In the end, I pulled out the three chalk blocks (for climbing, $1.39 each) he asked me to buy for him from REI. “Merry Christmas, honey!” Erik did not mind, but it would be a little embarrassing to tell this story to anybody else. Erh… what should I say to Charlie? But before I got a chance to come up with an answer, he continued, “What did you get Erik for Christmas that he posted on MTBR that Santa brought him ‘a wonderful wife’?”

“Really???”

I had not seen that thread and obviously, my surprise amused everyone. I was relieved that he did not really expect an answer from me, but in the mean time, I felt a little pressure. “Am I really a wonderful wife?” “What should I do to earn it?”  Okay, it’s quite simple:

Whenever Erik wants to go to Pinnacles, I should be fully supportive; if he needs a partner, I should not only go with him but also go with my heart filled with joy no matter how far the hike is, how heinous the approach is, and how chossy and loose the climb is!

I did not have to ask to know where he wants to be on New Year’s Eve of 2008. It was a very beautiful day at Pinnacles. The hike to Neglected Valley was actually quite enjoyable. There were only two climbs, Chimney Sweep (5.10a) and Flue Fire (Brad insists it’s a 5.11), on his agenda and after those, he would only have one more 5.11 left at Pinancles to climb. No problem, honey. Even if you don’t climb, the trip would be totally worth it. When we arrived at the base of the climb, I realized that I’d only brought one shoe. No problem, honey. Would you like a belay slave?

By the end of the day, he got the climbs without hanging or any taints. I felt happy too strangely despite not having climbed. It was a perfect way to conclude our year of 2008.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

joe

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Re: One More
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2009, 08:18:20 PM »
so inspired by the esteemed and studly mr. mud I just got back from the neglected valley today.  never having done chimney sweep, I thought that was a bit stiff for a 10a warm up.  didn't understand the chalk out right as well as straight up at the crux. I assumed that our favorite mudworm may have done some exploring while following hubby.  but after re-reading the thread can only assume someone else must have chalked up that crud out right.  very fun route, although it could benefit from having a second anchor bolt.  never that wild about belaying someone up on one bolt.

so the question for me was flue fire.  I led it twice today, to get a good feel for the moves.  the first time it felt like 10d, the second 10c, but when I was there with brad it felt 11a.  my follower thought it was harder than verdict and about the same as foreplay.  I wondered whether he was on drugs, but he's clean.  so in an attempt to emulate the precise standards established but the guidebook, I guess it's 10+/11-

the second time I went up, my partner didn't want to follow, so I left a biner on the last bolt if anyone wants some booty.  highly recommend the route.

incidentally, a couple of guys were tapping away at something new as we walked by on the way out.  on the wall above tourist trap.  asked what they were putting up, the answer was they didn't know. 

F4?

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Re: One More
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2009, 10:05:40 PM »
I'll be out there again soon enough on the choss with you tards. We got a kid carrier for x-mas. I think I can clip my shoes, harness and chalk bag to it. The only challenge is coughing up milk every 2 hrs! He's getting heavier, so I'll leave the rope so someone else.

So, what's the difference between 10d and 11a? Maybe it deserves another thread.
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mynameismud

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Re: One More
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2009, 10:35:26 PM »
Chimney Sweep was a bit stout.  It looked well bolted from the ground.  On route they seemed a bit further apart.

I went out right to check out some holds.  Thought I saw something out there.  It also allowed me a good look at the upper holds and to get a no hands rest.  I then went down and then straight up.  Used the pocket out left then the edges straight up.  Left foot on the knob then right up high.

Fun route, The stemming down low is very positive.

Flue Fire is just seemed commiting, why I do not know since the bolts are right there.  For me the hard part was getting setup to reach for the rail with my left so I could reach through to the knob over the lip with my right hand.  After that it is over.  I went up and down several times and actually climbed down to the ground to get a good shake out. 

A strong commited could probably skip the third and just go off of the second.  I think the rope drag would be better that way.  But I gues I am neither since I put in the third.

Good to hear you are getting out and about.

Here's to sweat in your eye