Well today was fantastic, ominous clouds but no rain! After speaking with Lars Johanson (Larry Johnson) who had made a recent ascent of Buckwheats Bender and the FA over 20 years ago It was mentioned that the anchors at the top were "Scary". I had remembered the 2 happy bolts ready to pop out and run away the last time I had climbed the formation years ago so decided to Beef up the anchor today.
I rope soloed the West Face route which offered exciting stemming up to the lone bolt. I added a
3/8 x 3.25in rawl 5 piece with chain and new slings equalizing the two happy existing bolts, and a new beefy rap ring. The existing bolts were large diameter 1/2in? and it seemed unnecessary to rip them and add 2 new ones. The Direction of the rappel has been set up to lower down the west face now (mostly for my convienence) The anchor is now worthy of some duty and hopefully will take some of the bite out of the spire's serious reputation.
Later wound up doing Dos Equis and Corona to cap the perfect sunday at Pinnacles! Hope everyone had a good weekend and thanks for sitting through the "Weekend Update"
*Mucci*
