Author Topic: Now is it Pinnacles season?? (Read 13236 times)

Gomez13 · « **Reply #20 on:** October 15, 2009, 06:59:49 PM »

I'm on my way in the next few weekends!

joe · « **Reply #21 on:** November 01, 2009, 10:34:31 PM »

Definitely the start of the Pinnacles season for me today. Some usual suspects and some new (to me) routes. And once again, I start a route clean and top out covered in moss and lichen after having missed a bolt. so it's all working again.
climbing with David Rubine, it was fun to hear many of the stories of how and when some of our favorites went up.
a bit crowded for a Sunday, but at least the party of 347 at Discovery Wall was gracious and let us run a lap on the Pucker, one of the 63 top ropes they had set up.
all in all a fun day down there.

talked to Scott over some adult beverages when I camped down there a couple weeks ago, and while there's some interest in doing an Adopt a Crag, surprisingly the government moves slow. I know that may be stunning news.

but it might be fun just to pick a day some time this season and have the mud crew take over the monument.

a thought.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #22 on:** November 01, 2009, 10:55:35 PM »

Viva La Revolucion!

F4? · « **Reply #23 on:** November 02, 2009, 08:17:28 AM »

Quote

climbing with David Rubine, it was fun to hear many of the stories of how and when some of our favorites went up.

Did he have a new guidebook?

Quote

a bit crowded for a Sunday, but at least the party of 347 at Discovery Wall was gracious and let us run a lap on the Pucker, one of the 63 top ropes they had set up.

All the more reason to hit the high peak or the Yaks.

squiddo · « **Reply #24 on:** November 02, 2009, 08:25:58 AM »

Quote from: joe on November 01, 2009, 10:34:31 PM

a bit crowded for a Sunday, but at least the party of 347 at Discovery Wall was gracious and let us run a lap on the Pucker, one of the 63 top ropes they had set up.
all in all a fun day down there.

Only 63....did Melvin get left out?

Glad you cranked out a good day Joe.

joe · « **Reply #25 on:** November 02, 2009, 10:00:41 AM »

at one point there were 3 ropes in the Melvin area. I'm not exactly sure what they were doing and didn't want to get too close even though we hoped to jump on it. and all of the ropes that were put up by the large party were established by rapping down from the rim. none of the routes were led. separate ropes on the kiss, pucker, labor of love, 1st pitch anchor of portent, etc. ropes on everything.
only hikers in the high peaks.
only choss in the yaks.
he did not have the new book, but was leafing through the FA index of mine which triggered tons of memories.
good fun.

squiddo · « **Reply #26 on:** November 02, 2009, 10:12:09 AM »

Quote from: joe on November 02, 2009, 10:00:41 AM

at one point there were 3 ropes in the Melvin area. I'm not exactly sure what they were doing and didn't want to get too close even though we hoped to jump on it. and all of the ropes that were put up by the large party were established by rapping down from the rim. none of the routes were led. separate ropes on the kiss, pucker, labor of love, 1st pitch anchor of portent, etc. ropes on everything.

SO LAME

PS, sounds like a gym

mynameismud · « **Reply #27 on:** November 02, 2009, 10:33:32 AM »

Oh well guess that means they are not out there on the good routes.

There are some good routes out at the Yaks.

squiddo · « **Reply #28 on:** November 02, 2009, 10:35:56 AM »

Quote from: My Name is Mud on November 02, 2009, 10:33:32 AM

Oh well guess that means they are not out there on the good routes.

There are some good routes out at the Yaks.

Rant? You? Never. Agreed though they are better than the old rotten manzanita we used to "clip". Hated that shite but then again, so much more for the experience.

Give me an old rotten lodestone to sit behind. Better yet, cut out a dirt bollard!!!

mynameismud · « **Reply #29 on:** November 02, 2009, 10:42:06 AM »

It was a good day when you could reach a Manzanita. Half the time a person got stuck with a dried up old bush.

Those were the days.

squiddo · « **Reply #30 on:** November 02, 2009, 10:45:16 AM »

Ha, if only!

joe · « **Reply #31 on:** November 02, 2009, 11:16:01 AM »

agreed, there are some good routes in the Yaks.
but in the spirit of debate, the note I have next to Bullrun is 'no anchor, loose, walk off', NWR'

F4? · « **Reply #32 on:** November 02, 2009, 11:52:16 AM »

Wasn't Brad on the W-Side?

MUCCI · « **Reply #33 on:** November 02, 2009, 12:35:30 PM »

Heading up to the E side tomorrow for some bolt replacement, then wed up to the Yaks!

I have never been up there and am really looking forward to it, any recommendations (excluding *** routes?)

Hope all is well in mudland,

see you guys sooner than later!

Mucci

mynameismud · « **Reply #34 on:** November 02, 2009, 12:53:00 PM »

Wow, I liked that route.

I think that I have done it at least three times.

From what I remember, there is one section that tends to get your attention.

Quote from: joe on November 02, 2009, 11:16:01 AM

agreed, there are some good routes in the Yaks.
but in the spirit of debate, the note I have next to Bullrun is 'no anchor, loose, walk off', NWR'

mynameismud · « **Reply #35 on:** November 02, 2009, 12:55:04 PM »

What range of ratings are you looking for?

Quote from: MUCCI on November 02, 2009, 12:35:30 PM

Heading up to the E side tomorrow for some bolt replacement, then wed up to the Yaks!

I have never been up there and am really looking forward to it, any recommendations (excluding *** routes?)

Hope all is well in mudland,

see you guys sooner than later!

Mucci

MUCCI · « **Reply #36 on:** November 02, 2009, 05:44:10 PM »

up to hard ten's, looking at spit inf, Orion, Term butt?

A rack to 5" is needed on a lot of climbs up there right?

Can't wait for the solitude!

mynameismud · « **Reply #37 on:** November 02, 2009, 06:48:47 PM »

Good selection. North Yak is worth the effort.

What you have should keep you busy with the short days.

Brad Young · « **Reply #38 on:** November 02, 2009, 07:15:45 PM »

Had the Citadel to ourselves on Sunday. Me and Jenn and Ed Drummund down from San Francisco. Perfect temperatures. I onsighted Power Tools, which I hadn't done before. The crux pitch really is nice; too bad the pitches below it aren't quite so good. Then spent the rest of the day with Dawsons and some Apple people who were new to climbing. One has a PhD in computer engineering. I can't even imagine that. But his forearms are small.

Josh, I could easily see over to Berserker and it just doesn't look that bad. And the temperatures! What a radical change in 4 days.

Today I joined Phil, a relatively new climber who lives in Soledad. Nice guy and a nice family. Hopefully he'll be posting here. He was kind enough to belay me on a 5.10b that, yes Josh, was at least as bad a Never Forget (Tibercio's Upper - Shortcut which is on the north end of Machete). Then we did a bunch of routes in the Badman Mezzanine area to familiarize Phil with that part of Machete and the easiest ways off. By 2:00 it was 87 degrees, so we quit.

Up to 796 and counting. Two routes left that are easier than 5.8. Four 5.8 routes left. Running out of options. May have to start putting up three star new routes (I have a long list of possible lines).

joe · « **Reply #39 on:** November 02, 2009, 07:29:30 PM »

nice job on Power Tools.

Maybe Foreplay could be #800?

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Author Topic: Now is it Pinnacles season?? (Read 13236 times)