Met Brad on the West side for a day of climbing, little did I know we were heading into full on Patagonia conditions with our first main objective being the North face of the Citadel.
It was COLD! High winds brought out the Puff Puff jackets and we were soon on the way up the trail. The Beserker route was on the list for the day. Rarely done (maybe 3 ascents) we were planning on replacing some of the bolts/anchors on the way up.
Well, by the time we got to the base our plans changed due to the 120mph winds and the spindrifts that accompanied each gust. "We may as well do the first pitch and beef up the anchor since we hiked all the way up here". Sure I said as I volunteered my hammer skillz in place of leading the ominous corner.
So, dressed in his denali puff jacket and a snowman hat Brad took off, 20 feet up I hear a "OHH" as a few softballs come bouncing down my way. I don't even move as they land near my feet. You see, today we were on a mission, one that would make most three star chasers vomit. To find the most exciting, seldom done, chosstacular routes at pinnacles.
Beserker turned out to be a great first pitch with just a touch of 5.9 toward the top of the really good crack. The bolts were all 3/8 compression and in pretty good shape! When brad got to the belay he quickly rigged a lower off and soon enough was at the base, ranting about how warm he was.
I started to snicker as I tied into the rope and started up to take care of the hardware. The anchors were deemed good enough to leave alone, so I added a new fatty to beef it up a bit. As I tied off and began drilling I see Brad chasing the sun all over the little boulders, Proudly announcing that he found some rays on top of a little pinnacle. TAP, TAp the bolt is in and I am on the way down, stopping to put a new hanger on one of the Pro bolts. We are heading back up to add chains and new hardware this season to the entire route, just wanted to get a head start.
We were finished for the day at the Citadel, way too cold and my mustache had frozen over so we were off to one of the last great choss problems in the Pinns, The Famed "Never Forget 10a" on Elephant rock!
I was a little under the weather due to the extreme exposure at the Citadel, Brad decided to lead the 1st pitch of this classic route. Never have I seen a man climb such obviously chossy, kitty litter rock with such composure! Only a 5 gallon bucket worth of rock came off in the 90 feet to the anchor!
After I sent up the puff to a frozen Brad, I began to second the vertical litter box. Many words were flowing from my mouth, some I did not even know I had in my vocabulary! Brad was surely laughing at my flailing. I pulled off a prominent pillar which almost sent me on the big ride, gathered myself and began the dirt hopping up to the manky belay.
Brad, seeking the warmth moved the belay to the lone pro bolt on the slab traverse, Keeping the main anchor as a back up. I grabbed the rack and began the traverse to the cool RFC. Lotsa loose stuff but no worries, We are the Aficionados of Choss remember?
I finally get to the corner and get some cool moves in with really good cams, make it to the top of the corner and begin to chimney up the Wisconsin Gravel pit, casually knocking off another 5 gallon bucket of choss on the way. Choss, choss, choss we summit! Probably the 2nd or 3rd modern (known) ascent of this classic choss testpiece! WhoooP! Big props to Brad for sending the crux pitch, adding yet another route to the List 793 and counting!
Big fun and a great day, Brad kept me on my toes for my first visit of the year to the greatest place on earth.
Peace,
Mucci
