Author Topic: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!  (Read 9428 times)

mynameismud

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #20 on: October 29, 2009, 08:55:48 PM »
I define a test piece as a difficult route for the grade.  It has to Test the leader.  It can test the actually climbing skills being a very technical climb, it can very physical or it can be a mental route, preferably it is all three.

Lava Falls, is heady for 5.9 with a bit of a run through the bulge.  It is also physical since it is a bit steep.  For 5.9 good skills are needed for the upper bulge.

Nexus, heady and skills not real physical since you can get a good rest below and in the crux.

Gorillas in the Moss, skills and physical.
Here's to sweat in your eye

kylequeener

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #21 on: October 30, 2009, 09:37:17 AM »
Lava Falls is just classic. Done it a hand full of times now. Sometime I'll bring slings for it.

Conduit to the Cosmos 5.10, Been on that... Wasn't feeling the bolts, down climbed from the bulge. My buddy went for it though... He didn't know it was R rated and took a few 25-30 Ft. falls. Proud attempts for sure.

I'll add Cuidado as a test piece for the grade as well. Its not hard 5.10, but its a great mental head trip.


Brad Young

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #22 on: October 30, 2009, 10:07:48 AM »
Some of the real Pinnacles testpieces are the ones that are "mental head trips." Keeping it together on the first pitch of Herschel Berschel and climbs like that are like soloing on crappy rock is a whole different type of "test."

Adventure lives still at Pinns.

kylequeener

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #23 on: October 30, 2009, 10:14:21 AM »
Free Soloing at Pinns is beyond a head trip. Its when you can really focus the most and get into a good state of mind. And then keep hoping holds won't break! Free soloing there is about the scariest thing I've ever put myself through. Rewarding as well. Makes you feel like you got away with something!


mungeclimber

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #24 on: October 30, 2009, 11:40:28 AM »
in that case, I'll add Rock Naked to the list.


On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #25 on: October 30, 2009, 11:45:48 AM »
Hey Mr Mud, here are a few to job yer memory:
Shake n Bake
Resurrection
Son of Dawn Wall
POD
Heat Seeking
Heritic
Shit, why not most of them McConachie routes.
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mynameismud

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #26 on: October 30, 2009, 12:30:51 PM »
I can see Shake and Bake - It comes down a notch with good bolts

I would not include Resurrection, SOD, POD or Heretic.  All good routes but not really test pieces.   

Many of the McConachie routes do somehow qualify.

The two newly revived Glen Deny routes on Machete ( the names escape me at the moment.

Sepiente de Cascabale <sp> located on Machete
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Aficionados of Choss TR...Wear your helmet when reading!
« Reply #27 on: October 30, 2009, 12:54:58 PM »
Quote
I define a test piece as a difficult route for the grade.  It has to Test the leader.  It can test the actually climbing skills being a very technical climb, it can very physical or it can be a mental route, preferably it is all three.

I'd say those routes test the leader. Resurrection tests you in runout and in on-sight skills.

Quote
Many of the McConachie routes do somehow qualify.
Yah, them 2 bit routes. Not all, but many should qualify.
I'm not worthy.